The Oregon daily journal., April 26, 1908, Page 58, Image 58

THE ; OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL PORTLAND,
SUNDAY MORNING. APRIL'
mmMMM
1003. ''
, V; ' . ' OREPJW svNUAX jvuiwni. ww " Z - -- 1
WHat Extremes of Crowns an
Brim Are j Seen in' , tlie Easter
I Hats! eiMerry;WiJbw Sailor,
tlie Popular Hat of tlie Moment.
i Marvelous' Small Hats Witk
Hiijt Crowns and Narrow Brims
Are tlie
UDiras
an
m l rimming
r
-F all the birds oa all the Bwtr hate
began to talk what a merry chirp-
tor thai would be. , '
White ptrroti Witt gay pink
bMkj would Insist (bat Tolly
wants a erackerr All the sedate little
. 1 would iraka up and screech shrilly.
Birds of unknowa varieties would elat
ter In unknown tongue, although It
wouldn't surprlso mo tgo muck If some
of tbom spoke tko Jargon of our com-
mnn American barnvera f owL '
For that all kinds of feathered erea
tores flourish on one'e 1(91 EUr bat
there la no denying-, sometimes tney
allrht tngly a s.a gull spreads Us
wiJgs over the crow of a walking
bat; sometimes In flocks four, and
twenty little blackbirds net baked la a
rie. but airily perohed on the broad
trim of a flat shape. Birds of all col-
ore. of every plumage, many never" be.
fore seen on land or sea. .they have
come to take part la the feaater bat
parade, , ' '
And after all. what could bo more
A The 'popular Merry Widow Sailor
and the Merry Widow Neck Bow,
BCharlotte Corday Hat of Smoke- ,
Colored Silk Net With Cerise Rib
bon Velvet and Tip.
C High Crowned t Romnejr - Shape
With Under Frill of Lace.'
D Toque of Red Cherriea and Green ,
7 t aves Ornamented With a Life ,
; .ze Parrot ' . .
VV V. A JL JLaf A 1 ' ai, JB, A JL .i
,, , ... , .
a ECENTXT X commented rather ee-
J verdy a the prevalence of gam
i bllng among women, pointing out
.-Vi that-the. mania for bridge whist
seems to be growing worse. Even
...r voun women now tasu la-
. , f . ri.-tna itn,
udons upon which Is written, often
jt vrv (mprfit hands, "Cards be
tfrn the hours of I and 6 in the after
s t-n." snowing that the infection Is
:J!n and tliat tne younger sat is
olUer
r to a oefiiee tuv s.a.
it .l comes from the Influence which
th wk Mho are supposed to be leaders
t- fs v-iv are eri tiinr over their daugh-
'--'.. eid' tilr rt iul.tere' associates.
. j ra t l la to top 1 a grave ques-
. h- . f - find it Very tiifticuit to
' , I, . ti..-.r SUM.'pa lions, and. if they
, lW' .... ". -'O..V?W ,
0 k;-';.:- .
Latest.' V Extraordinary
d Flowers Are Kivals
spring-like except, perhaps, riowerst
?bey, too, ara here In abundance. Spring
lowers, violets and lilies of the valley,
I bo biasing popples of Julr. even gor
geously tinted autumn leaves, Tea uefl
of shonies there are Tt 1 luscious
rod sherries and alighted In the front,
as If Quite contented with his surround
lata, sits a porky parrot! Ko doubt bo
has related well.
Certainly no one can complain of mo-
notony In color,
mtlllnev worn
en ape or raorio in ne
this spring. There are
colors and shapes to su:
and ever has there been
to sun every imo.
more latitude
In choice . There- are wide Prima, nar
row brims, no brims at all. There are
high crowns and low crowns. Trlm-
smngs a-re via.. K,,TrA7n:
t ,0AjyO
Again JfhfZih T.
that ? iJAmi.
set on sister-g P.rJ5. J.n
-. The muok-heralded btrtrowned smaH
hat la with usjbul ao also 1 the Merry
JV'dow sailor wlUx Uo ll-lnch brim and
low round erown.Bo ther.r P
you' money and yon takee your choice.
Parle la reported as reveling In a car.
X JL AU : V V - Aaf Aaf a aaT .y
'.. :s. .'; i. i , t t' '
keep them up they sooner or later bring
serious trouble upon, themselves.
The effort of New York's aldermen to
suppress smoking In publio by women is
a step In the right direction, and It Is to
bs hoped that the ordinance will be
carried Into effect, and that any AmerU
an woman who ao far-forgets nereaii
aa to smoke cigarettes or cigars, either
in orivate or in nublia. will receive the
condemnation she so richly deserves. :;
With the appalllna- oonaequrnces ' to.
the nation - of cigarette . smoking, this ,
baneful habit cannot be too severely
condemned, and women who put so lit-
tie value upon their lnfloenoe la society
as to encourage tha deadly vices gam-
bllng and amoklng aBsuredly-' deserve
to be oelraclied by all moral, and re-,
Jiglous people and those who are Inter-.
eeted In the welfare of the future of the
American race.
" r -t Oldlut Strtw With Tan 'J i
- - 7 (f l ! 1 VVV VN" Crowri, Trirrmied With Bunchet o! VAN' C-iili W'fcrtVj'C ."
' ' Jl' illW WW 5vV -' ;F Tht Postillion Ht't and Pierrot , '' V.CW e ..Af' li V i
1 "'jfflftli Jlllvv i .I
. Wffrlw VV Chip, Trimmed With Black Velvet - I' - BraS', ' I '
" t'.'" liM'f ! rS- ' ' H The New Effect Narrow at tha K ffl 2f L1
" - r ' il4MY:J.VV-,i, : . Sides, and Projectinf Par In Front J IX'iCiCil' 3 ' 7 1
j and Behind. vJ '''i "'
nival of .vjTld eolora omtrald, green
and cerlae being: the favorites. And
irmy mere are no more enecuve, colore:
but alas, to few . are they becoming!
xieTf m boil auu Dine eamoai tne tanes-
rj mue ql winter is mucn iikco,
and a faded raspberry. pink. -Of course
thero are the usual number-of burnt
straw colors and the aver present black
and white. 'But array and violet. Which
are usually counted spring; '-colors, have
lost their nodularity this year. . There
is too ereat a liking or-unusual ool-,
rings. , v."-. . - . -
Almost without exception - the new
bats, be tbev large or small, roll at the
leri siaa. - j n exceptions i are xne
straigntrorimmoa : sailors, . whicn prom -
1aa before lon to bo woafullv common,
rhnrlAlt.". PnrHav fiat lia . anM.l 1 An
of mob crown, pllsse ruffles and nod-
dlng plumes. This is most charming
worn over a youthful face and la mad,
of& 7Karl Kf mate;. nt,,ttue
and other diaphanous things, built onto .
a wire frame The down-turning ruf- ,
fles are' held out sllrhtly with an under
brim cf wlro, ao that th
do not hang
too flatly on the heir.
crown
puffed up airily, caught invisibly hero
and there and circled oy a band of rib
bon endlnr in a lovers'
knot. Sometimes
little - nosegays of email flowers are
tucked In around the crown. Borne
times two short backj-turnln tips .nod f
(. Jn front. Nothlnglcould be mora jouth-
v
But plcturesqueness Is a feature of
many or tna latest moaeis. 1 can imag-.
ine rasmonsDio nai aeaignera aiuoying
the old raaatera, seising upon an Idea
and than rushing back, copying, modi
fylng it and bringing it up to data. One
or tha results la ths Romney hat, which
little changed. Is one of the spring's
best productions. Tne lime Wiiy mgni-
aW IVtlM JM'Wg-
;. '" . 1
Aa an evidence of the deatruotive in-
fluenoe of the oustom of Europeans
upon Americans, it Is reported that Eng-.
nan woman, or men station - wane en
or men station , wane en
route to the United States on one of our '
finest ships,. Indulged In smoking cigar-
sues on the deck and In the lounging;
room of tlie steamer. -.i .-'...v1' vr i
Be It said to the ahama of American
women that they followed tha example !
of these titled women of England and
appeared on the deck of the -steamar
carrying cigarette casea And smoking '
with all the nonchalance of - thair;
European sisters. - - v .
i ne oaring oi tnese Tinea taaiee iea
to the exposure of the habits - theso
American women ..had contracted ,in
Jiurope of smoking cigarettes in private.
foolishly (rriaclntnir that this dlagustlng
praotioe was not known to their- ac
quaintances, t The telltale stains of cl-
cap affect under .the brim, - which made
its appearance In Parts laxt winter. Is
now iniroJucea here. The ualnsnorough
Is, no longer a new atory, but is bare in
mora generous lines and with moro pro-
rusion or ciumes than ever, to the
empire period or dress we are Indebted
for the quaint little very blah crowned
hata with little or no brim and all the
trimming plastered against the crown.
Tbasa small, Trlm!ess batg ara nheT8 tnaa usually lovely. One
new ; thing" and will - be extremely y"Ui7 f"?u" Vi ln" 7
good Satyrs for wear with tailored "f5blt l" ossoma, banded with
frocks. But for afternoon and evening . XJ?.rd velvet, a smashing bow fin
wear it will be found that American '"Bin U at one aide. , A A falr-halred
woman Will be slow to part with; their
piciureque oroaa-orimmea
, tnen zeatners are uaod
i hand on these wtda Ji.t
. V. , thaw all- Kualr 1 frk.la
heavy heads nod toward-ths -rear In- H! f n; s5 om tinrlps ap-
variably. - , 1- ' V. HLihi?In, t? ' "rrtt11 an
All the brilliant parrot plumsgs Is In auTlhtlt otA&Mv
demand for tailored, hats. Wings ' with se ijl winter on Lta for VilTvI
gFMnr y.n0w, red and blue mlogled InjcSgjS, hava been aonronrhtte Z
their oolorlne- are in mtn mndJm. 2rra,"IOBf.. -rLv ??n ,RPrPrlt,y
MeDhlStO oullla that la. lnn. varv
Jon, polntgd juJU curv nf at th tlp
used to trim th
4aig 4.IHI M.llw
ors. bui ordinary averyday quills are
"mil ainKri iiais. wuui maas
of ostrich feathers ara one of. the sea
sons novelties. .
a,rbrlm of contrasting color. Thus a
hat f champagne-colo'ad straw will b
ittuvu wiiii a 1 raw ur&ia or vivia green,
a color note repeated In the trimming.,
timim seem 10 do orammea down en
the head farther than ever. Indeed,
j k 1 i women quite aisappear un
V" mmr wbiw iraugwir na pwr up
rrom tinaer the extinguishing brim in
the eerlet way. Bandeaus are almost a
Wi1 ot VMt' ithouh .V'r "J
still sometimes used to give the fash-
1, III) VOD1I
''indulgence
woman skillful enough to bide her
renca In this vice.
rn, ,oli, nf th, mmlnir nmtra-
i0n, we pray that such legislation may .
D- etiacted as will give authority- for-
the suppression or these Imported vices.
the sup
with all our boasted advancement in
civilisation, it seems that we hava
come to look upon very hurtful vices
svith euoh tolerance as to encourage it
In our heretofore considered nurltanlcal '
nation. '
. Tbosa who venerate the properties
and standard of virtue maintained by
our maternal ancestry t should exert '
themselves to their utmost to restore
tho old-time aversion of demoralizing
practices ana mo regiomuon or me ven-,
eratlon of sobriety and morality that
characterised the women of the earlier
days of tne yppuouc, and we are glad
to.eee that carnu
Cardinal Gibbons has bad t'e
courage- to cnaracTeriae- nmoking as
"toe disgusting to alscuss."
:' 4
lonabletnt at ths left side." ' " . " JmfS o JTTv -l I
Boat-shaped hats, narrow attn aides - , '"A ." ' ... , v-lWf I v I
snu projecting rar in rront and rear,
are found in . exclusive shops. These
aemand the new coiffure of Grecian
outline to support ths back brim. But
wnea . properiy worn tney cava great
cblc. ' , ' - i - r
With the spring flowers. Inevitably
appear flower toques. This year they
uty was quit radiant in a toque
.hats) always appear., with the oarlv
arn.. - i-V"vr-i ir"r.i
Around black hata. Sometlmei. mv f or
couple of short plumes, these era -tba
sole trimming on black turbans.
Aigrettes are still the smartst'of tha
f mart In tha millinery world, but no
onger do they turn backward In appar
ent fatigue. They stand upright,
either at the side or In front for the
military effect is Quite the latest word.
Brush algrattea ara stuck defiantly
erect In turbans, and wide hats turned
up snarpiy at tne lert aide, in a way
suggestive of tha Rough Rider, have
two stiff aigrettes crowning their
two etirr , algi
lumefl-DRCK Drlm.
If ,you want a touch of bright color
with your Easter suit have a hat of
reriseor eome of thoooral pink shades,
with a welstcct; of silk er satlo to
pnmniisan nw imaim 'AenniiiB' aKHikiiiiAai a aa.
With ftV UVith'd" ''" V. UlaalUtJia i.eur JioruB.
hut . -riiK.- trimming Is not used this year
uch as last. -altbouah oherrlM Inn
U :
IS" TRUE LOVE-MAKING- DEAD?
p:
ERHAPS "deep down ' in a few
hearts the fragrance -of old-world
courting still lingers, but these
refreshing instances are oply ex
ceptions, and, alas! very rare
ones, too. : - The sweet Jpvemaking of
long 'ego, which savored 'of new,-mowa
hay and lavender, and suggested both
picture . and poem, has : literally, bees
drummed out or modern society.
ut or modern society. -
jidatream In an age when up
uth diedalna the grand .old
Of chivalry and flower-like
.. we are mida
to-date youth
traditions nf chlvalrv
purity. They prefer the fever of an il
licit passion or the eclat of one of thoso
friendships called , platonic, which are
nothing less than so many milestones oij
the downward path of llfa.--
As to the sanctitv of marriage, our
newspapers' dally, record leaves us no
- tinwFitt-i nni i . w . in many alrle
Illusions wherewith te veil the fact of
Its desecration. 1
, Tet it Is not on our youthe and maid
en that the lash of criticism should
fall. They are pnly reaping the harvest
sown for them by older and stronger
bends. . . ' i -
r Ths art and literature of the day are
the culprits who should stand in the
dock, not their victims. Unless by not
able exceptions wo never see whole-,
some lovemaklng portrayed on canvas
nowadays, never read It In our novels,,
never hear it in our plays; but in Its
plaoe we get pictures teeming with
morbid suggestion, novels based on the ;
breaking of the seventh commandment, '
and those absolutely degrading "prob-
lem" plays which by their aufUlety and
veiled offenelveness are especially dan
gerous to young minds,
True lovewakJng can Beyer be heard
match. " Then you ' can feel yourself
quite safely "In the ' fa-llon., The
waisteoats grow In beauty day by day.
iy glr
work baskets
be
found lengths of satin brocades In
nrnceas at ambrotderina In sold. . Later
on these. brocades will take the form of ,
waistcoats which will be the envy of
all the girls' friends. 1 - - f
Pierrot ruches of taffeta or mallne,
worn tightly . around the neck and hav
ing a bow and ends eithv at the back
or under the left ear, are k fancy sent
us from Paris which will' be enyerly
welcomed V)y the Eaeter girl. Ana not -
alone are they for the girl of generous ';.
allowance or comfortable bank account,
for they are quite possible of-copying
by- the - maiden of .slender purse but '
nimble fingers. . ;.-.,,. . ,.
Girl Telegraphers in India. s . .
' From Harper's Weekly.
Acting upon the recommendation of
ths telegraph committee,' the . Indian
goyernment has Just :-; 9-uthorised . the
employment of 1 women operators. ' 1
' The candidates must bo between IS
end 10 years of age, and they must be
unmarried or widows. They must .un
dergo a training of 12 months in . the
telegraph training classes, during which ,
time they will receive $6.65 a month,
the same allowance that is drawn by
male learners. :....?.-.,--.,
- Selected candidates on leaving th
raining classes will be on probation
or one year.. Upon appointment thev
will receive salaries varying from tit
to 116.66. which are very large upon the
scale of living expenses In India. There
will- be pensions, with no, liability to
transfer; but resignation will be com
pulsory In the event of marriage. ' ;. :
By BamseW Je Beriouck
again until our men have more respect
for women, and our girls a far keener
sense Of their own dignity, and for this
there must first beta strong undercur
rent of reform among the pioneers of
social legislation. . Our painters, our
novelists and our playwrights must lead
the way, their ambition tempered by the
thought that what is termed their 'gift"
is, after all, but a precious loan a loan
the repayment-of which will surely be
required of them by a- merciful but just
Judge.. - . --
I '
Minneapolis Typographical union No.
2 has taken the nrwt step in a move to
42 ha taken the nrwt step in a move to
raise a run a rrom which to pay striking
members a sum equal to that received
while engaged In their regular ocoupav
te, . .. . - - ' 1 , .
t