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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (March 22, 1908)
rim -' oregon'' sCKday jouwrau k)Ktlanixv sunday'. korning. .. march ' 22. 7 mi 4 u ! 1 ; if ri am 1 vr ' 1, ',;. u jj :. m'rfffjnr m ijb ; ; r m mxxir.-'m m mi r-MS mm iiaa s &i -a ri M fiwurC0Mr fieAs A f- .-S JO,EHI W UPW Ml if" WzWfif TTU L UC7i 11 U 4 i fW T v ja K 4x1 . 1 - - - ' Of V'Ji VIII fl W. W 1-111 I 9 r-W-Tf?iL8J- i-5i i ww m m hi mi m mm MAJ fell styles 1 hat nave, the Indorsement of the Leading Tailors J REVOLVTIQN hat jaktn place in j tht fashloit of men. It hat brouiht us to the era of individuality, ' '. 4 revolution which, although startling in us way, occurred so Quietly that when you gtt -your spring suit and outfit you will not,, per- "ur, wytcr n ptran-o nutnper of sears ago, but only now, to the observer, are the ef fects auite visible. i this sprint ou will notice but few radi. cat changes in men's dress, an amxzinr b. i'nce of fads in his attire, a conspicuous sobr'u tcwr ana tone ana few alterations in the cuts. , '.. "This is because the best tailors Mo longer . build a suit after a certain ordained fashion declared one of the "best" tailors the other day, "but we make a style for every individ ual man. The day when a single style was made for mejt of all ages and all sizes has passed. "The modern tailor sizes up his-patron and builds a suit accordingly. His purpose Is now to bring out the good features of the man, w irwun(e me j nun ms suave ana puik, and make of him an artistic creattgn." Am wl b out ! ibt woria out of fuklon. Clkbr. CCTov h,va '." Mid th aartorlal tuthorllr w V quoted above, "that London faihlona Influ X anc ha faahiona t roan bara. That la ; tnyth to a rreat extent. Comparatively tew Engllah atrlaa take root Is tfala eountry. "For Instance, over there at present they are wear In aody-flttinff garments. We ahould not think;" of msklnf a body-flttlna; garment, unless we decided It would ahpw to better advantage than any other kind on a particular patron." In the cuts of suits there are comparatively few changes, and In the mora radical styles the distinctive eatur will be a bulging of the coat about the chest, with a pronounced collar rolL Color will be subdued. Many weird and unique , pu in i n,r. i. i iuM.M'1 i, iV, ni.jij.ii.ii.jt 'WW " .'rrr,mm l; r , -Jl a 3! KM v 1 V. f ) colore wherein he clothea hlmseU qgt clatn. but run I , delicate lines of aocord, Let hi garront be Iduh as to display the beat feature of hi ehape.' And so the man of th coming spring will a' forth a thing of beauty to look upon At least, a 't.s said. y . . ' 'J - . Quoth the tailor emphatically: ' ' ..' . :, The age of extravagance and eccentrlolty, let vn hops. Is past .:.;' ,, ".',71 . 5 , That the age of sense In men's costume has eoma there ino doubt. ' ' c'; ' r "Among the cheaper dreesera fade will, arise anl paaa, but the man who cares for hla appearance tvI who wishes to look well certainly will not adopt eer tain cut or style Just because it happens to run In general favor. ' ;V,. .' 'i j" -,'., "The beat tailors are hardly ever able to tU yea what the predominant style will be at the beginning of a aeaaon. The good taller now studies a man an4 schemes out a style foe that particular man. He d'X'S not follow a stereotyped fashion. He must bo original, to be ruccessfal. He must make hla work artist to., "And that's what we are doing. I, think thta ePlri: will be manifest the coming spring' possibly more clearly than ever1 before, simply because of the alw aence of Jhe blxe.rrs. ":' ' "The absurdity of a vogue of a particular fad can be seen at a glance. Imagine a tall man wearing an extremely short coat simply because the short coat 1 In vogue; or the fat man, for Instance, wearing an an usually long coat If long coate be 'the' thlngl A "We now make clothes for the mat. The manjnuat not necessarily fit blmneir is the clothes." .',.' Well, let Us watch ana seel Spring Styles in the Country ,t-r-a, HERE will be little change among spring style I In the country for IfcOI. Of course, the winter nubias, wristlets, knitted scarfs, pulse-warmers, knee-warmers and ear-sba will be laid aside. ' Th farmer will discard his coat and vest and sub stitute overalls for his trousers. The snako will sll out of his skin for a more gorgooue one. "The wanton lapwing will get himself another crest." U not Cllp l.i','U'. mm mm Vol , ,. -....,.,1, j.ia,,., j-.. ir,.u , shades will eome Into vogue. Waistcoats will ba rather fancy, although they have toned down since last spring. The not of spring and summer dress will b a subdued harmony of effect. Whoever said that "clothes make th man" uttered a striking paradox. They do not make th man. as b is, whether noble or base, intelligent or stupid, great or small; but clothes do show off a man to advantage -If he gets the right kind. r So it Is, therefore, that when the sap of spring be. ' gins pushing the - budlets on the trees man looks around for that wherewith be may bedeck himself. With the passing of winter he emerge from th chrysalis of winter garments, and his taller, his hab jrdasner and hat dealer are invoked t conjure up a new attire, Usually the attire of spring has been festival but this year there will be maintained a Slight sobriety in the color of suitings. VIVID HUES IN SHIRTS In shirts, however, the gay heart of th male may ejoice, for goods of pink, green, blue, brown, striped with gloriously vivid colors, will find favor. Ties In harmonious colors will be worn, and, as in suiting, stripes will prevail. The stripe is th new fashion of prlngin suit. Shirtings and ties. - Th brunt of the lob of attiring th man of spring alls" on the tailor. To be successful, the tailor must not only ba able to make clothes, but he-must be an artist. He must build a harmonious suit, And, Inasmuch as his duties are great, his dictum Is absolute. The favorite suitings, of course, will be worsted goods, finished and unfinished, while, later on, flan ' nels and cheviots will com Into favor. Although no strikingly vivid color will b worn, man' pew and unique shades bavo boon conjured. However weird and bizarre many of them seem on analysis, the general effect s mostly subdued. Tan brown, blus and gray will predominate. New ' ahades finding favor will be olive striped with brown; a stone blue, which Is peouiiarly beautiful; a London ,' - "smoke," which carries out In color th name; a gun- metal, which is dark, yet atrikingly colorful: a shad '-. railed mouse, resembling the skin of th little anlmaL v and an "elephant." which reproduces th color of th ' , 7opWlf will Insure a relief from any possible monotony in the vogue of that color- At th same time Innumerable shades and designs in blue and gray otter an a)mt confusing opportunity for selection. Striped with harmonious colors, many fabrics also show faint "invisible" etrlplngs. These dellcat combi nation of color will offer th opportunity of harmonis ing waistcoats to th suits; In feet, on can run a combination of stripes, from the tie, through th skirt and walstooat to th suiting. A RADICAL IDEA Perhaps one of the most radical and really now styles is that of a coat cut rather full, with a swelling, rolling rever, or collar. This coat will b cut about lght inches fuller than th chest measurement. Sack coats will be cut of a medium length; two and three buttons will be used; vents will be worn either at the side or center. Last fall ooats were made with out vents. Upon one thing the tailors are unanimous the con cave shoulder has gone for good. A happy medium has been obtained, a compromise between the concave shoulder and the natural. Th affect of the new cpat with the rolling collar will be particularly cooL A style of sack coat will dip In tb front Single-breasted sacks will prevail. Another radical coat will be a slngle-breastd sack closing with on button.' Cuff on th legs of trousers will not be worn, canting in negligee and outing suit. Mad slightly nar rower than tho of last season, th trousers will sjlv th suggestion of the psgtop. At the seam tbr will be a three-elghtb-inch welt. . Waistcoatsl In these the gay heart of man ha been wont to disport in rainbow hue and goldn. b jcwelod buttons and glistening silken bralda Tea, Mr. Man. you will be able to wear bright colore this Easter, but not so bright and variegated as last season. For some reason the sartorial author ities have decreed to tpne down th colors; and per haps it was not unwise. . I Fill. waiHLCOKll Will vm WVIB inuawj " breasted, with Ave or eix buttona The gold and Jewel buttons of last spring bavo been superseded oy i button of plain pearu this spring a coat will appear which will dip slightly to the front, and with a ahawl collar. There will be a Tuxedo with a peaked lapel and outside breast pocketa Of a medium length. It will be made with a cuff on the sleeves, with 'four or fivs but tona 811k will run to the edge of the cap a This style is rather unusual, and the effect Is ex ceedingly picturesque. Tailors, however, do not best tete to say that only to. most radical dressers will affect tbl ooat, Trousers with the dress clothing Will be made with a three-quarter-Inch flat silk braid on ths seama Dress costume stands for convention. And few tai lors have th temerity to meddle with this grouchy, hidebound old creature, Soma brave spirits, however, are willing to run the gauntlet of social criticism, nd so each season some little novelty la drsss is In troduced. Now, the extreme of full dress Is the outing attire. Here one may take liberties ,ad libitum. Th designs for these suits are optional with the tailors. A sack coat with two or three button will prevail. Ugbt flannel and club check will vie for favor. Thar will be many charming worsted effects. Trou sers will be turned up at the bottom. Grays and light tan will, perhapa, kaep a close running for popular Pockets will be of the patch variety, with outside flaps. Collars will be made of the aame material aa the coat or a contrasting shade of velvet W'heti thta is done, ths cuffs will be piped with velvet It would be Impossible to describe the shirtings and tlea Tbey run the entire gamut of colors and shades. Finks and greens, browns and blues, or blue and yellow and brown, and yellow effects, and purple and yellow or red will predominate. Narrow ties, as well as the flowing silk ties, will be worn, the prevailing designs running In strlpea Last spring there was a riot of color in men's fash ions. Like the peacock, be blossomed in gay suitings, waistcoats of screaming bues and blsarre combina tions of colon Now, for good or 111, he has selected the more sober dress, and his gaiety will run in waistcoats, Bhirtings and ties. Perhaps, Indeed, ho has taken to his heart the maxim of Lady Montagu: Be plain in dresa but sober In your diet. And If that old saw of Herrlck: jtfrt-J'Vr' iV-v.-- ::,:rf 's2 jk'srt- J ' f A sweet disorder in the dreas Kindles la clothes a wantonness. favor. Bp of br medium length, and hang almost straight In the back Spring overcoats will be made in array and shades of brown and green. Tbey will extend to the knee, a be true, the man of spring will be Irreproachably se date and proper In dress and action. In surveying the spring fashions, the striking fea ture is the lack of novelties, of extremes. Gone are the exaggerated peg trousers. Into the nether depths of oblivion have sunk th concave shoulders, so popu lar a few years ago. Perished are the sporty cuffs at the bottom of man's bifurcated apparel. And faded are the wondrous iridescent hues that glowed and burned on oiice-popular waistcoata. Instead, there comeo an era of harmony. Man. say ths gods of the fashion world, ia not a fool; at least, he should not be. Let hi in be a work of art. Let the ped, the horss, like the farmer, will shed bis coat Bay will be the prevaliiiiv equine color. Among trees, green will be the prevailing Shada, The well-ordered ky will wear various bues of blue, and cluudg will bo in good form, either in white oi" black. The moon will be yellow throughout the year, like some newspapers, and the stars wilt twinkle in emulation. Pessimistic people will look blue, and a- vious persons green. . . -. .. Coat styles for country editors are longer. Imme diately on discarding the overcoat, no garment short) of frock length will be permissible for his appearano in public with any degree of self-respect or desire in obey the laws of the land. Plumbers' and doctors' bills will be worn longer- Money will be shorter and tighter, while stocks ex cept for the neck will be discarded entirely. k flat that Crowns tlie feur prin fuit f ""Vila 1 k i.j . :- sr-.' i sa , i n s v " i' t : n -e-fjl. iYAan row Co fhc lmrf 7fte Tvxeto Tefl FfeCQ 77rc Se$oJ7fSJkry Afar . for tfre Afore. Jecrb O ' iriB.nneia will ba favored: of various colors, such as light brown, light ray, pearl or tan. striped suitably as will match the stripes of the suitings. Vesting s of linen and duck in white, pearl and tan will bo pop ular. The aim In waistcoats will be, first, to harmonise them with the suit In lieu of this, it will be emi nently proper to produce a decided contrast A double breasted waistcoat made of flashily fancy material, will be worn by less conservative dressers. But it will not be so popular as the plainer single-breasted garment, uouars wui pot oe roao on me waistcoats. A unique walking coat will appear with the spring. This will be made of rather fancy goods and din to th front There will be two buttona To appreciate IM moaiia auwi, yuu ua.v vuij iq compare It Wltlt the Bngilsh auit which 1 narrow, body. fitting and rather ungraoefuL While the English coat Is cut round, tho new American wauung coat is cut in a straight lino from th last button. A Prince Albert coat with a roll collar will un doubtedly prove striking. Whether or not It will win any degree of favor remain to b aeen. vi course, me least possioie cnanges aremaaointn F COURSE, the question, Wherewith shall a man be covered! is not nearly ao im portant aa that which concerns women. But the atylea of men's hat are matters of no little importance to the artists whose purpose is to create some new and attractive headgear lor the sterner sex. New atylea in hats for men I Certainly. Hardly as conspicuous as the Italian garden and Japanese mountain effects, with the popular orni Japanese mountain effects, with the popular ornith ological creations, of the women, perhaps. But SPEj PEAKING of new spring styles In bats-not for th women, please, but for men mere are quite few new featurea H.l -i .An.nl.ii.il. a - thai. ft th. ? if AF1A. No, no, Nor so expensive. JBut a important to th pien. During the spring and summer straws naturally will be worn as they always are. However, this sea son th brim will be slightly wider than those of pre vious summer, and the crewns wiU decrease slightly In height Th favorite bat, it Is said, will be of the cwns ana one Benim. A fine split straw, as usual, will be favored, while the soft, split traw, with tho slightly broader brim. will be favored for dally use. Panamas will remain tn trunked beasts of tne Jungle. . . . full dresa But occasionally aome one takes a vagary, popular JAvur. bill With wwu leas high than for- Many nw auu MC4U.tjyr uaiw o mown U'rnl.lnrn,T,,nD TrPTfJH XJJla f j"I.Tx, J"" .""T V ' ' " f r A unique featur in the fashionable straw hat wiU be a cord about the edge of th brim of the hat This will give a peculiarly neat effect A soft macklnaw will b largely in favor, too, and will be worn turned down in the front For a rather dressy parson the cord-edged hat will afford a certain new note to the style. In changing the fashion of bats for men there can be change only in the line, width and turn of brims and in th height and ehape of the tops. SOBER HEAD COVERINGS ' Man undoubtedly is modest compared with woman when It cornea to bate, and while you will see the ladies wearing hats with immense, wide, amazingly wide, brims, decorated with wonderful plumes, brown, and crimson and green, man will adopt a stiff hat with a slightly mora pronounced bell-shape dome or top. Women, toe, will affect a very email neat Frenoh hat, which Will fit snugly on the head. Made of col ored straw and covered with feathers, or simply burled in gay, glowing flowers, theee hats certainly would oollpse the new derby hat for men, which can boast of only a slightly more narrow brim than for merly, curving upward. : The stiff hat is prosaic. Any hat worn by women may bo a poem. Man may occasionally disport in gay Waistcoats; his bosom may glow with variegated flan nels and gold-braided silks, but when it eome to hat ' well, his ralety suddenly stops with th close of bis college days.- -.,- A new style of the stiff derby hat for spring Is tremely low. In most of the styles tbdrtops will swell out Just slightly znor than-osual. A. hat for more ' ."'' ' '" !'7.'' -. ' .';" V7 perfect conservative men will be lather high, with, a flat top. - - 4 While the derby hat will grow In else,' tho llk hat for men will become straight than formerly. Th change, however, Is very slight T ' In soft hats there has been little change. A tele scope will be popular, as will the high soft hat wK i the crease in ue .middle, fdr business men. 7 H The colors of soft bats ; will be . buck, tobaic brown. Belgian black, pearl and, elephant which is light green, and other new enades. . . : ,o0.ur8l'i.Lr you aT iour spf; hat nui harmonise with your dresa Tiieie are many w colors extdnt in cloths, and the bat makers have n, been behind in getting new shades.' such, as .,.. and elepnant skin; shades, nuit. colors and gri . Undoubtedly, many ecentrlo Ipdlviduals will trm'i their spft felt hata into biaarro and actepirlo lap. Perhaps, as a novelty. It would b Interesting w i a new and rather extravagant style of hat fvr nun evolved. , : j..--."-. t. -.i' -. . When on considers the hat of the ol4 hvi;. with their drooping plumes hats nuw copied by v famous women dressers, among them Cecil Korei, t Parisian actress the heart of man occasionally for something a bit mora gay, ... : j, However, for a considurablo time to iu it likely mere man wilt let Vanity iair carry t monopoly In hats,' Styles for women niiiv i mushroom ahapea to peacok-talln'l iT . - season man will merely observe the o, '. ,,', . creasing t( the width of a brim. Uni t shrinking' of a-VP anl the occasional Su..; '..' . now. yet somber, color. 7't ,r' : .y .: ' f !; 1
