The Oregon daily journal., March 01, 1908, Page 32, Image 32

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CyClENCEi ladies, in the picturesque
, . Sbut wholly unpoetic and utterly un
. : esthetic irecessei tf tHe chemical
laboratory, has undertaken to tell you what .
' kind of hats you shall wear.
And science? apparently, ha) made a
pretty bad fist at it; at least, most women
may thinkjso. y. ..''
r.- Paris-rCity of Light, and of millinery
: has been agog over the perennial' the-'
ater-hat question. - And something new un--de$yhsun&thmoot
, with yanous degrees of satisf action upon
all varieties of hats, has turned up at last.
r Paris ' has been weighing gravely and
solemnly the dicta of Chevreul, the famous
chemist, whose opinions on the' subject of
the colors permissible in women's hats, pro
pounded 'some time ago, have only just
- - beenrpubUshed to 4 breathless world.
Being a scientist, the great Chevreul,
of course, speaks ex cathedra; that is, with
Cthe air of finality which most stirs in wom
an's tender bosom the instinct for man
slaughter. ' Precisely what is the fate that should
te meted out to the great Chevreul is'some
thing on which Parisian milliners remain
'disagreed. Experts in the United States
ere inclined to sympathize with that author- .
tty on punishments who preferred some
thing lingering, with a touch of 1 oiling oil
in it.
However, you can all Judge t for your
selves. EEVREUL has woman scheduled and
ff - itemized, according to her complexion.
He classified the feminine face angelic
' through all its tints and shades,' from
the blondes to the brunettes. Then he ran the
gamut of their possibilities in the sacred mat
ter of Appropriate hats.
He did it with the thoroughness and the
' positiveness of the true scientist, caring no
more for the august laws of precedent than he
cared for the inviolablp right of personal taste.
' ;Puie science, declared the infallible' chem-1
istpure science alone, as learned in the chem
ical compositions of the primary colors and
their modifying tints, tfhould determine which
hat " hues may eafely be attuned to particular
shades jsf tresses and tone of the complexion.
Around woman's form Chevreul draws the
: awful circle of 'his unholy science; on all who
-would invade it, he prepared to launch :.thei
curse ef chemistry i7 Women should, forever "
after, fix by rules of science the colors of both
hats and trimmings; and the only aid they
would iiecdrah6iilidv.leria3a1)ls "from their,na(K
bands, whom they cotfld ask: '. . .
'"Isnny hat on crooked '
. ' .Then, being;ssured that, hy all the laws
cf optics, she is slanted on the bias, and by all
the laws of chemistry she is decorated bevond
fear and beyond reproach, she can sally forth, a
thing of beauty and a joy to every scientist 2
Avoid, as you wouid being landed the
Jomon, nats oi yeuow anu orange nue. .ce wary ones; while brunettes should avoid blue, prefer
of the violet hat, unless you have lovely golden ' rim? red. pink or even the risk oranire.
hair or sense enough to trim the lower side c: :
.tr.e trim wun some uu y jciiww. , ,,, ,.
;' the - Oregon Sunday journal, eortund. Sunday-
3 i
To
ear
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......
This isn't inconsistency; it is merely mak
ing the bqst of a bad bargain. It works the
same way with yellow hats. A i brunette who
has the sublime recklessness" to don anything
like that will find her sole salvation in blue or
violet trimmings.
An American milliner, even a Parisian mil
liner, will admit that a blonde jdoea look pretty
in a purple hat, and that a brunette beneath a
yellow one would Jbe beneath a milliner's con
tempt. But the French chemist has charged
straight ahead, and has blundered into one of
the most awful sins of lese millinery that can
be committed, the very next time his dangerous
yellow reared its horrid front.
"A black hat with plumes," he' remarked,
"or with white or pink flowers should be worn
by blondes. While not unbecoming to brunettes,
the effect is not so pleasing. "Brunettes could
add flowers or plumes of orange or yellow."
Certainly; so they couldl But if they added
them in Paris," they would f lay 'their motives
open to very serious misconstruction. An
yellow silk petticoat this season, shocked her
American gin over tnere, wno investea m a
strictly proper Parisian friends so gravely that
they, wouldn't be seen on the streets with ner.
. But. that is there, not here.
- A white hat, avers ChevreuF, is becoming
-only to a. pink-and-white complexion, whether
"hair land eyes be those of blonde or brunette ;
as for hats jn gai&ererepe or tulle, they go with
iaU'inpJexioi . , 1. .
, Which is true enough, for gauzy, airy fab
rice soften all of nature's too-strident tints;
brit, just the same, a brunette, according to our
canons of taste, looks lovely in a white hat
which - has a ' black facing to shade her f asci-
sating, sparkling eyes.' '
, xub aoes isiriy weu.,wim me easy problem
of proposing? white hat for a blonde, who, he'
says, may decorate it with pink flowers, or bh
But it is different when he declares that.
wmie tne iignttnw nat is becoming' to the
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blonde tvoe. it may be ornamented with yellow
or, orange flowers, but never with pink or vio
let. Why, who doesn't remember the girls of
last year; and who can; forget the dreams of
beauty they were, in those light blue hats trim
mfA with violet, and the hats tUt combined
blue, pink and lavender, and the hats that put
i j I -J V'
manv livinir f orsret-me-nots ?
This winter they have been wearing Ameri- " t , -'
can Beauty. roses on purplish blue hats; and " to be 'separated by " garniture ' of ; white or
they are looking lovelier than ever. And can green. '.S- ' '
any one fail to recall that it was that high ';''We'unaWseason the most' icoming'-faelng
priestess of fashion, Madame Pompadour her- to any bat was considered pale pink, whether
self,, who consecrated the harmony of : pink and -H the woman - was blonde or brune except,- oh,
blue in silks! i '.-;'' ry i very emphatically except, A7here-she happened
The brunette sagely observes - science V in to be afflicted with that ale reddish hair.whose
the person of Chevreul who is bold enough to tones, approach pinkiness. . , r ' . S '
don a light blue hat, must be sure to use orange-v ;And, finally, according to Chevreul, the red
or yellow accessories; while the greuu hat is be-, ;i hat-it advisable only:for -those whose faces are
coming to whit complexions or to - those -but 6 too highly colored. '
slightly pink. Well, buttercups actually ; have -'He wins there He has it exactly right,
passed muster on' dark blue straws ; but' any Milliners, "fashion experts,' ordinary -human
brunette ' promenading under a blue hat trim-'" wpmea all agree thaVon red hats, het had-a.
med with orange I. . V:l . . v v flasK of inspiration, worthy of any girl over '6
"As for the pink hat"--to pass quickly ver ; .years old. . At- that- ago the handling of retk
a nainfulMibiect chemistry 1 thinks it - should - ,come natural to them. . ;. " -
never be brought close to" the skin.' It ought , .
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' . There 'may be something more in. science,"
however, than the fashion experts are wiUin
to" admit, atd, of .. course, there may be erea
less The best, way is to eea for one's self.
. Here's, brunette -Alice Longworth in a, big
black hat with -a - white plume one of those
shapes, her own. taste rushes to with: fond, em
brace with a plume that has the plume of
Henry of Navarre beaten a mile, because
Jlenry wasn't born in the times when ostriches
were raised by hand. . Mrs. Longworth, accord
ing to Chevreul, should not wear "Alice blue."
And here's handsome young Queen Victoria
of Spainin all her blonde beauty and a white
hat with pink roses, which she, picked out her
self, to be photographed in." Do you like it aa
well as ahe does! v,
Then there is that famous American belle.
Mrs. Robert Goelet, her dark daintiness framed
in a black hat' with the dangerous yellow tones
in the plume, ; -
. Lady Pole-Carew, "the most beautiful
woman in England' is wearing a black hat,
with black plumes and s white garniture;-but
then, could anything mar the attractiveness of
her blonde, classic face?
May Goelet, now the duchess of Roxburghe,
is the brunette who defies the lightnings In the
1. bluO apd yellow hat. .Is she a terrible example t
'Her; serene highness, the pretty princess of
Pleis,-who iaJnoted'for het fair completion,
wears the black bat with the pink aigrette. Does
; her .serene highness, womanr approve!- ,
. Mrs. Paul S Pearsall, who, when she mar
- ried young James G. - Blaine, . Jr., from whom
she .was later divorced, was known as the"helio
-;trope bride" because of her passion for violet
"in all its shades, ifl one of those types, with hair
of rich chestnut huef and a clear pinkvand-white
skin, who really' can wear .anything. But bow,
; think you, does her indisputable charm enable
her to bear the strain of the dark green hat,
with light green trimmings, prescribed by the"
French scientist! - - . ' ' -i.
:. ! And which : colors 'are you wearing . this
spring! ' . ' ' - . ' " ,
P