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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View This Issue
THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL, PORTLAND, SUNDAY MORNING, AUGUST 18, 1C07.
at Newport by
W. G. Roelker
ana Mrs. Tok n
m ArrwisuW Afro a i n wmi
, of Wkite with
Worn ty Miss
THE word "exqulsltef seems to beat ,
- describe Mrs. W. Q. Roelker, who !.
hM MrUInlr Jmprttnd us at t,.
Newport lnc she first cam to
ua no matter how much lomt .
people have been a lltUo disgruntled
at her wvnl goodly successes. ..
Her dree la always almost quit per
fection. Her carriages are quite com
plete In every detail. Her entertain
ments are really very wall thought out.
Anyway even the elements seem to
treat her gently, for she can arrive at
the end of a Ions; motor trip looking
wonderfully unruffled. But th"u, you
must remember, she has French blood
flowing In her veins. She certainly has ".
that desirable something that is so hard
to describe. Ia it Innate T .
When all the rest of ua are dust- :..
' begrimed and dishevelled, Caralle Cou-
dert that waa ia fresh and dainty In ber
long blue motor coat, -worn over a trim
f pa n r. n w imtwina, . m nrfi.in v nor . miv
puts to shame some of ready-to-wear
atrocities I see women we all know
' We look forward to Mrs. Roelker'a
dinner with Interest, for they are
; unique. She always haa some original '
. centerpiece and most original touch of
, all she invariably has ber dinners to
match her dinner gowns,.
If she . is wearing a pink gown the -decoratlona
of her dinner table are pink;
u a yeiiow gown Dig yeiiow roses not
over the cloth. One dinner she gave not
long ago had for a centerpiece a lily
pond with water lilies floating white
- and cool on It. On this ooeasloh our '
hostess wore gown of white and '
4 silver., f . .,.-.T-p
Dinner Decorations to Match Gowns.
-.-. . Thle la a pretty scheme and worka v.
well, except In the case of one en?
terrorising woman who copied Mr.
Roelker Idea. h gav a violet din
ner and. ta the dlsguat of aome of her
srueata. hsi vtaleta set afloat fit rha .
- soup. It aeemed rather a , waste of -flowers
and certainly spoiled th aoup.
I have aeen Mrs. Roelker driving at
Newport thla year in an English basket
phaeton, and she haa been wearing a
different gown on each occasion.
Bic-i nar ine omer aay noiamg me
reins over her smart little cob. She
looked aa fresh aa the pink garden
, rosea aha had tucked In her belt.
She waa wearing one , of the popular .
lingerie dresses a really exquisite on
of lac and embroidery comparatively
simple In design, but elaborate In ds
tall. , It waa made of tho' sheerest French .
netlste and worn over a slip of pale
blue silk, which showed through th
' diaphanous fnbrla quit distinctly. " -
A hat of pale tinted chip was trimmed .
i with pals blue sain ribbon and big full
blown pink rosea. Two pink roses
tucked In ber belt echoed the not of
i color In her hat.
A yoke of finest French embroidery
extended to the sleeves and ended In a
: straight boned collar. Shaped pieces of
batiste embroidered In striking . polka '
dot design and bordered on either aide
by Valenciennes lace outlined the yoke.
Suapender-llke places of the batlate and '
- lace ran from the belt over th shoul-.
i On th aklrt the aarne piece ran from
belt to hem. Around the aklrt were,
v two bands of th polka dot embroidery
and laca. w
The aleevea wer puffs reaching lust
.' above th elbows end ending In a "'
straight cuff-of embroidery end lace.
The waiat had a becoming fullness In- '
trod need in little pin tucks Just below
the -yoke. -
Mr. Roelker aa usual had flat pearl
Never has there hnM a - .
' yearWhlt ,ln,r'r1' '-areasea than . thla
Many of them are made on princess
models, waist and skirt being Joined in
the working- out of the design of lace
.-, and embroidery.. i ,
- A.?om hv " obvious belt of lace.
glrd!ea.r W05 WlUl flow?rd 'bboo
' wt,7IiiTm,bISMt ?'aHo needle
1 pt of fine material indeed
0wm r ult marvels of de
sln snd execution, . l
Mrs. Preecfrtt" Iwrwnn ku-
o cold and stately. A little too dig
nified, some think, but I admire her for
that very quality. I wish she could lend
to on or two women of our aet a little
of her surplus repose of manner.
Her daughter. Kittle, Is a great con-'
trast to her... Bh la sweet and piquant
Mrs. Prescott Lawrence has an Indi
vidual taste In dress. , For Instance, I
aaw her during the afternoon - drive
wearing a bat of brown with a white
linen gown. That goes to show what a
hold browa atlll haa on popular farovr..
called the '?J n. ..i r,T...M newn - 1 no nnen gown waa quite an eiao-,
caiieq ine New Kngland Plana" she Is oral one, with Insets of heavy lace.
ll n ' ' 1 itoelker's Lingerie
A X Yf -:J&1& 'fQsy - --" Lawrence) Wear, a .
k ' ' V'lif " ' Wltb H4t
though It dipped Just In front It raised
at the aldea euffiolently to show a hlgt
ahaped gtrdl. ' ' ' -i .' , ,
-. On th jacket th linen was out out In
diamond-shaped pleoea, showing whit
Inset below., Heavy laca was used for
th collar and the turn-back guffs on
- th sleevea
Around th bottom of th Jacket rati
ahaoed baade of laca, wmcn did not
quite meet In front, but ended in two
downward turning points, ' .
The sleeves wer full puffs. They
also had the cut-out decoration, ami
... - . . - I - . In 41 In. 4-111.
nqea oeiow we va
The skirt-was long and made with
out plaits or fullness at th waist line
Extending up from th hem were cut
out diamonds, sharply emphasised b
the white beneath. .l" - ...
Purple wings trlmmd a hat of whltt
chip. Baucy wings thsy wr, and gavi
m A in mn ntharwlse SlmDlS hat.-
Of oours Mrs. John Nicholas Brown
wore a whit laoe veil, ana m wecuiu
lng It waa to her. .',
Ftlenda returning from a trip up th.
Kile have brought ua faaclnatlpg acarf:.
a-.iiniiin tiaaua. . heavllv wrougni
with allver and gold apanglea, put on liii
1 Odd and intricate designs.
Although these scarfs age not new
If. nniv vrt Utelv that vla4ve real
Ised their beauty when UseJaJlghi
: evening wraps. ' . rv
Thla summer we ar all wearing tW
hlmmering things thrdwn around out
hmiMara nvir mir dinner aowns.
They are really wonderfully becom-l
in and give a son. or oriental iouci
wttir-h holds a fascination.
Borne of these scarfs have been fash 4
loned Into Cloaks, reaming quite 10 xn
bottom of th skirt. - For they com li
different alsea, from th short and nar
row acarf to one yard long and wldi
tit rtr-nTMtrtlon. ' . . .
A lovely oloak t uw worn on th ter-I
race after a ainner mis summer wa
made of.Rrypttan acarf a It waa oil
closely woven silky material, with ai
elaborate design applied In allver apan
mlm.m . f WA.M mAi1 SOlVlth1n On th
aame style aa a German military cloak
with aleevea. of course and hung lf
straight and unbroken jines irom necia
to to. .... i- , .
Tn frenL lust below th chin. It wa
fastened with a quaintly wrought Bgyp
tlaa allver ciaap. 11 giowea ana gui
. tered In thdlm Jlght lnjjult a fairy
laVirant Fish la wearing a shor
egie of whit wiu goia spanRies.
it ia nmhahlv more nractlcal than th
Ion rer ones, aa th metal used Is rea
smM and allver and tn weigni is no
inconsiderable and might do quit
crushing damage to a fragile gown.
From tlie Greek an J MocW
ern Standard of Beauty
AeaetHll Drct woman, . nobly
I clanned" of the poet differ
I aomawhaf from that of th art
. lat. Inasmuch aa she, la "not toe
.i. bright and good for human' na
ture'a dally food."
But th perfect woman of th artls
la sometimes a very ' Imposlbl crea
tur. and, to ordinary , yea at least
vary far removed from pertecuon, i
ther In fae or form
These wer used In an original way.
forming a broad panel on the aklrt from
waist Tine to hem and outlining th
yoke. The panel of the aklrt extended
up onto the waist, where It formed a
girdle effect, over which the waist
bloused MUightly, - fastening with two
hog buttona. - ,
The aleeves were made with th fash
ionable "sling" effect, formed by a fold
of the palm linen. From out thla
fieeped a diminutive aleeve of lace, end
ng in very frilly ruffles Just above
Mrs. Prescott fAwreitc' hat was, aa
X said before, brown a large, flat
shape, around which curled brown feath
ers, praped on tue brim was a white
lac veil, without which no costume
worn at Newport thla year seems quit
- The veil was not, however, aa moat of
them are. of lace. It waa of thickly
dotted point d'esprit, with a wide bor
der of lace. A really moat-becoming
Chungs from the all-over lace veil.
Bhadea of violet are much to tha for
thla aummer. There's something very
sympathetic about this color. It ap
peals to msny women of perfect taste,
I've seen Mrs. Watts Sherman arrayed '
In "purple and fine linen" literally-
far she haa been wearing a gown of
heavy, unbleached Italian linen, wltn a
hat 4 mase of purple feathera. . Mra.
Oliver Gould Jennlnga alao haa a fetch
ing little violet silk gown, and the other
Drive lit a really
purpie linen. . - .
The renponslbillty of being the moth
er of the antlaeptlcated-sterlllxed-mll-llonalrs
baby doesn't seem to weigh on
Mra John Nicholas Brown st all. She
looks hsppy and care-free and sits In
her carrlags with a pretty erectnesa bf
poae which wlna my admiration. -
ig iitue violet aiiK gown, ana ine oiner
ay I met Mrs. John Nicholas Brown
nlnnlng along far out on tha Ooean
rive In a really "stunning" ' suit of
- Tou know, XtVs. 6rown waa Natalie
Presaer, a sister of Mrs. George Van
derbllt of nilt more, and of Mrs, Oeors
Orenvllle MerrllL Mra. Merrill's hus
band wal once rector of St. Marya th
little church w all aay bur prayers In
at Tuxedo. He now lias a church In
Buffalo. All three sister are women
of simple tastes and usually of simple
dress, but this violot gown of Mrs,
Brown's wag fairly elaborate.
Purple Now a Favorite Color. :
It waa of tha coat and aklrt variety.
The little coat waa an Eton, and al-
It haa been said, howvr, that rry
nalnter observea a beautiful worn a 1
through a special spiritual lena 'of hM
own, and, it la doubtlee -jru tnat n
, th majority of caes th artlafg Idee
la evolved from hla partiality for on.
nartlcular woman. , " J
From th artlatlo point "of view, th
tvna has varied In all area. an.
. vnnw hnw verr afferent are th.
Ideal and therefore presumably "per
feet women" portrayed by artiste o
... Hov- fmm tha modela of Burne
Jonea to th "Gibson girl" . there la li
wide difference. , .
PerfeoUon and prettlness. It Js said
rarely go together. Blr Edward Foynter
I . VnunUir artiata. anJov
the dlatlncUon of being thonl
painter of really perfect worn en." Dore H
painuna, or y " , . Zv.
Franceaca, a medical man one told tlx
writer, waa to oee pamuna w .
anatomically perfect woman he knew
' Tha following, however, ar the mens
UremenU usually considered by artist-
Ths Egyptians took th middle flnged
aa tha standard of measurement, tbl-1
being reckoned aa about one-ntneteent)
of th height. .
- Aocordlng to th "square of th an
elent" the span of th arms shoul.
that of tha hels-ht from mlddb
rlnaer to middle finger, and this i
about th accepted standard today.
If we tak. the Greek measurement
th perfect woman ehould be eight
heads high, and she should net have to.
smsll a waist. Th elbowa shoul.
reach th hips, th hand should be th.
length of the face, the arms when out
stratnhad should be th same aa th'
height of the body. Narrow shoulders
ana wine nips were mv uivn h.om v
feminine beauty, but the modern wo
man has diverted ber ahouldera an.
heat to tha benefit of her health.
- The head Is generally reckoned in thf
old Greek way aa about one-eighth r
the height, but tnia oniv appuea to
neonla. Tha following proportions. A
ever, ar given by a German JsawTTtiet
who haa made a study of wasagsTa beau
ty of all natlona, and theeeTuiXer slight
ly from ths ureek stanaara:
"Tha height should b eevert and
half times th length of th head, tei
times tha lenath of th far, nine time
the lnrtli f th hand, and th leg four
times th length Of th hesa. Th
shoulders should be two heads Wide
and, when standing erect, perfectly
formed leg anouia toucn at tn cneev
the calvee and the ankles."
In addition to theaa w have th fol
towing ' measurements, which artist-
generally recornlte aa a atandard of
beauty:. The stretrh of th thumb an
mlddl linger should mcusur the lengti
of th face: the thumbs and sam
flnaera should enolrrle the nsnk. whll
the thumb and mlddl Anger should Jus
go round the wrist,
Ths arm. hanging downa should read
exactly half way down lh aide, an
th foot, which should be well arched
should be about alg and one-third time;
that of th height .
Such are the measurementa and pro
portions, but ther - are other point,
which go to make up feminine perfec
tlon. The hair should be long and lux
urlant and more or lea gloaay, thougl
wavy hair hue Its admirers. The eye
should be full, large, clear, and well aei
In the head and of good color.
The eyelashes ahould be long and th
browa well marked. ' Th mouth shoul.
be well shaped, neither too large not
too email, the lip red and neither to.
full nor too thin. Shapeliness of body
rounded limbs and wi -1-formed hand
are alao neceasary factors In th aun
of feminine perfection.
HOW TOSEE GHOSTS Dr. Ber-
n?a r"aT vcs Cresting Explanation
of Telepathy: Art of Discovcrinfi Specters
D HOLLANDER !. th fpAUrt Investigation ' but owing to
latest man or eclene to attempt the conversion of some men of oclentlflo
to explsln "telepathy" and aT. .nrS: ,lk B,r Oliver Lodge, nr.
-ghosts," and ery Interesting ex- Mlenl?"'1. Y'J1" ni ,oth'r'
ligations ther i.ra. too whi.h Kh?"f rer" ahlon.
iv in aa wiuivii pn j'sycnicat
1- firrh" to th Lyceum club, gays the
Lin ! -d.-r.
I t II -i oiler began by remarking that
Hum . iui ta euueern lUwaeiX VU4
Three Groupe of-Phenomena.
tr. Hollander divided psychical phenomena-Into
three groupa. namely:
1. Mesmerl lilt. hvDnntlum tnrl atiararAai.
I. Thought - transference and telepa
thy. -..-,-., ...... ', .,,
Visions, speotres and -ghosts.
The first group now belonged to th
practice ef medical men, and should no
longer be classed among the occult.
There could be no doubt that certain
pereons were so organised as to make
Now supposing" proceeded th
speaker, ''two sensitives to be closely
related or drawn together by a bond
of sympathy! and -supposing them to
be In different parts of the world, and
the llfe of one to be In danger. The
first thought he will project Into space
and thought Is a form of energy is
for his relative or friend.
"If that friend 1a actively engaged at
the lime th message may be lost; but
if he happens to be In a passive state
thinking of nothing In particular his
lireia auil tolv aome iiatresaion, olag
or confused, which will make him think
of the absentee and render him anxious,
as If something had gone wrong..
An Image on the Brain.
"By means of this wireless telegra
phy an Image la produced on. th brain
which J ' projected outwards, causing
th abaent friend to be seen a If In
body, and even the actual clroumstances
of'hla dangerous position may be repro
duced. Thie seems to be the simplest
xplanatloa - of telepathy, and remove
It at one from th group of Supernat
With regard to ghoets, TT. Hollander's
explanation waa even more Interesting.
Our brain and nervoua system, he sal. I,
were atorehousea of energy, whleh we
were aUU unable, ta deXiue, .Whether
: . "i -. ' '. 'V .'
brain force was electrical was atlll an
open queatlon, but we knew that differ
ent persona were differently endowed
wlth.lt, and could thua account for the
Influence aome men possessed - over
othera which made tbem natural leaders,
Vialon of a Choat the Result.,;
"Now,"' continued ' Dr. Hollander,
"supposing a person to be th victim
of foul play, his mind-energy will .be
exerted to the utmost, and Is projected
with such a fore that It will cling to
th room or plaoe la which he lost his
life. . If, then, some person of a sensi
tive nature, and not pre-occupled, pans
through that room, his .brain may. re
ceive such a stimulus as to produoe
aome mora Ot Xaag deflatd Image which.
will appear real to him, and th vision
of a ghost will be the result, .
"Thle wilt also ea plain why daring
men who come armed with swords ana
pistols do not see the 'ghost' so long
as thsy are full of courage and wide
awake; for their brain Is still too active
to receive the image.
"It Is when they get trred, and are
at the point of falling asleep, that th
Impression is made on their brain, and
strike them with such terror that they
flee from the spot." v
Prlnccaa for a flridcamald.
1 From th Ohio Btate Journal. -A
toplo' of eonveraatlon now In Eng
lish drawing ronme la tha Invatlon .
tended to Princess Patricia of Con
naught to ha a bridesmaid at the wed
ding of Miss Anna Iireese and Lord
Aiaattlr: luu-iiMt, a prettier ot th
Duke of Itoxburgha and hlr" to th.
dukedom. , -.. . ' "'
Mlsa Breeaa haa a number of kins
folk In Columbus. Her mpther, Mrs
justins ijnary parsons ), is a phit
Gustavus Bwan Parsons of Eaat Towi
It Is ssld that In all the annals o
English history thers Is no Instancs c
a Princess of the blood royal acting a.
a brldeamald to a daughter of a com
mnner. However thla mffbe, it I
asserted thnt Prlnceaa PBtrlci" mucl
delighted at th possibility, an.iO;-l.
royal etiquette Intervenes and aa? 0"""
must not alia will be charmed t.-
In tha capacity for her very dear frlcn"
Prlnceaa "I'at" ha a groat capacity fo
holding her own. It la aald, Is neve
so happy as when shs Is doing some
thing which other princesses have no
done, so there le very reason to ex
pect she will use sll her persuaaloi
U carry put UUa unique Idea,