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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (July 14, 1907)
V I THE ' OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAU PORTLAND. SUNDAY MORNINO, JULY U 1907: 5 . t . , f ; K f '1' t v 4 I... V M: Smart Tail- . ' "J i ! ' V . ored Cbstumes Mrs, Canfield, Morg an ana Arnold Wood. Worn ty A. Cass Mrs. Countess Fabbncotti Fad for NigLt Caps r n mm mum i n Mi. -JTiW J MM Ml I I I !.i,l 'tU,- ' I', .UV U II r I . I I ill II f II Ul AT last Mimmr has comer At last we can lay aside the hA tailored go- ns and cloth tumes we have been forced to wear for so long. We can revel In the sheerest of muslins, the most diaphanous of lingerie frocks, the Mspest of linens and lawns. But before we leave the subject of cloth frocks for this season I want to tell you of one or two suits which are really too good to be left In obscurity. For while two of them 'have been pen about a Rood bit. and the third one will be, I flatter myself that un less they have been observed and de crlbed by Mrs. Cholly Knickerbocker they have not been really property ap preciated. One of these costumes was worn by Mrs. Cass Can He Id. Just to mention Mrs. Canfleld's nam calls up a vision of beauty. I'm sure you'll agree, with me that she's one of the T-rettiest women in the Four Hundred. Even the women admit that. Her coloring Is exquisite, so clear and delicate and her blue eyes moBt alluring. I've always thought she shone among all the women in that very exclusive American Book of Beauty to which so many of us gave our photographs. Heaven knows some of the women looked frights! Even my photograph did not at all do me Justice, but they Insisted on having It and Cholly had the pleasure of paying $600 for a copy of the book. Mrs, Cass Canfleld before she sailed for Europe showed symptoms of en tirely abandoning her mourning. It makes ma quite sad, for she Is one of the few women who wear almost per fect mourning and half mourning. Her violet velvet gowns last winter were most satisfying to the eye. This spring she wore a good deal of black and white. White lingerie gowns, most elaborately embroidered, were a favorite evening wear and suited her delicate style very well. The gown Z want to tell you about combined gray and white and her fa vorite violet most successfully. It was a fine soft cloth of the fash ionable Pekin stripe. Not a very wide tripe, but quite distinctly of the two colors. The short coat had a suggestion of short waisted effect, which was accen tuated by two little tabs ef violet Vel vet put on above the waist line in front Tlolet velvet waa aiio used la C Mrs. Cusa Canfleld Wears a Smart Suit of Pekin. Stripes Trimmed With Violet Velvet. t To Be Up-toDate You Must Wear a Night Cap Like This. and a frill of brown velvet also ran around the high-boned collar. The broad double box plait which ran from under tne waist in rront ana con-. tlnued down the skirt was ornamented with large buttons of the Shantung silk, embroidered in the same shades of ilk as were used on the waist. This box plait did not hang out loosely from the figure, bet was caught back by the belt which ran from under It around the waist. The effect was very much ef t "straight front to which many of us atlU clitic notwithstanding the ef forts of our eorsetlere to persuade ua to adopt 'the French ngure.' The aklrt bung tn soft folds below the stitching of the plaits, and about seven laches from the bottom had three rows ef the silk braiding put on In a simple dTbek hat te wear with this was a large one of cream-colored straw. It . was trimmed with plumea of a little deeper shade and two large natural-look-- Ins pink roses., ' For some time It has been the fash ion to pay a prodigious amount of atten , tion to one's head. Not to have one's ' hair elaborately, extravagantly dressed ; with a infinitude of puffs and waves and curl ta to acknowledge oneself completely eut ef the smart running, la fact, simply arranged halWUnmedl - eately , atnjsoa one as "eccentrV and draws down the contempt of the ser en e'a unfashionable heai she desends for saeeh of the effects her hate tine aa elaborate arrangement f the hair. . Only at nlaht when most ef the erec- tlo ef puffs and curia baa been re moved by my maid, Marie, do J , feel tree to lay nr tired head back without a thought of the eolftare I may be squashing. And oost eemes the news that not only Carina? the daylight hours, but at night aa well, must the fashion of our headgear be eonaideredi For the latest edict la that we must wear nightcaps good, old-fashioned nightcaps, such as your ancestors you have them, of course ased to wear 'war batch In the dark age. Countess Fabbrlcottl. that kinswoman or "t eddy Kooseveit, wno has such a smart Ixmdon hat shon. is. I believe, re. sponsible for the fad. Oh, these milli ners! They'll not lenve Us with a cent, even to pay our bridge debts! But I must admit that the little oapaT are ramer cunning. Made or em emhroldery and lace, with little laoe ruffles and ribbon bows, they're quite like a baby's cap. Rome of them have a lining ef this China silk and are scented with your favorite sachet. And being the fashion, though Ve may groan, ef course we'll wear them. HEIRESS TO AMIL- LION-People of Good Sens Would Not Letl Fortune Interfere Vlth j Effort Perfcaps, ThougnJ if You Inherited tne Money You Would Not Act in the Dame Way S A Mrs. E D. Morgan's Gray Tailored Suit Has a Military Air. v B Shantung Silk. Em broidered and Combined With Lace, Is Used Suc cessfully in Mrs. Arnold Wood's Costume. exception which, they upper portion nearly midway the length of the skirt., The two olecea were put together in rounded scallops. A hat ol black Neapolitan straw turned- up sharply at one aide and was trimmed with blcck plumes, which were fastened in front with a hup-e buckle of cut Jet. Mm Arnold Wood's Frock. A frock destined for wear on cold dava bv Mrs. Arnold Wood was a good example of the way In which different working, earning her little salary everj " ' v . , . . . month, no matter If she Is worth a mll-l junus 01 mvea u)jr u " ul" w v Hon dollars. J the same gown. One thing is sure there are very few I... v. - tin,, women who will ever Have a chance to r,YBr, - show what they'd do It a million camel when our treasured bits of lace could t0 tnenl unexpectedly. Perhaps most! be used to such advantage as now. No of us would spend It like Idiots without! bit of lace is too small to be "worked so much as a thought that any kind ott i ir. .. wnv snd.1 hf course, the wora couia do connected wuu iv. r- Bv Irene Gardner. HOtTLD a woman with a million I dollars work for a salary T This question was recently I raised through the action of al woman In Ohio. Ehe was a sten- ographer, and unexpectedly fell heir tol a million. 8be went right on working. The Idea of doing anything else did not! seem te eater her bead. Bhe said: "I like to work, and I think It is thai only wev to be happy, so I am going tol keep at nay old desk." Do you think that was the right atti tude! Do you say of her as some edl-l tors nave said. "There is a woman witni good horse sense?' Or suppose the very day that she! knew she had that money she had! walked up to the bosa and said, "Seel here, I'm going to quit. Just pass my I position on to the first competent girll that is in the waiting line. I can final plenty of work to do with that million! ooiiara witnout drawing a salary lor it. Now, I think a woman of good sense! would have taken that attitude. Thenl she could find nlentv t6 keen her busy. For Instance, she could take some of that money and build a finely equipped hotel in Toledo, where working girls or boys, young women or men could live reasonably enough so that they wouldn't feel tempted to go wrong In order to enjoy the comforts of life or have some fun out of it. Many a boy filches from the cash box because he longs to make a respectable appearance, and many a girl la tempted away from the path of nonor oecuse or ins conuoris sun caiti obtain by so doing. This million dollar heiress could sol conduct that home as to make it detract! from the cheap dance hall, the lowl theatre, the saloon. She eould run Itl so that it would not lose money, thus! eliminating from it the degrading talntl of charity. I Or she could put her heart and moneyl and energy into furthering the work oil aiding needy cmiaren, wnicn is yet in Ha infancy and In need of Just such as sistance. Or she could bur some land in frinma MmA malfa it fntA A futrk frAA. all whn eould reach 1L It crf bfl made Into a place where the cJaWTren ofl the street could play while t?elr tired mothers rested under the trees. Or she could make possible a series of concerts at so reasonable a price that all who loved good musie eould afford to near . . .1 Or she could do many things thatl would keep her working harder than any! stenographer ever worked, ana mac would give happiness to others, instead of keeping a salary from some one who needed It. . , To be a working woman who is doing something worth while doee not mean that one must be earninsr money. The woman of wealth who spends her money! advlsedlv must of necessity be a hardl wnrklnv woman. She nan a fiTHVS re- rinnalhlltfw unnn her if nhfl UB6S herl money rightly, and if she meets that! retnonsibflitv as she should, is deserv ing of more praise than Is the woman! who, succeeds in earning a milllonl thrmiffh her own Affftrta . FHit thin ta niilv nna narnnn'a oulnlon.l Perhaps you think differently and ad-l mire tne woman wno goes rigm name wii v. tnu. ui older And more yellowed by age the bet ter. session. - . i ...i. However, she's -retty enough to Stand Baby Irish, Valenciennes and the pop severe things, and she makes ft picture ular filet were all Introduced into this calculated !o' bring Joy to '22l' of "tujallora Shantung si k, dent's heart when she appears sur- wh(cn was further beautified by silk rounded by all her ehiWrea. She'a de embroidery braiding and embroidered voted to them, too, . buttons. This suit was or oara gwmvwj vv Baby irisn lace waeusea lor ne yoo Queer Hearts. There In one curious fact whloh not! everybody notices about the commonl finger long green caterpillars of outj larger moths. Their hearts, Instead oO being in front are at the bacK oi ttnrtv an1 alrtAnA Blnno- ttiA entire lengtnt unt can see mo jt ana caie tne collar ana on tne sieeves. a. vmm ice sieeves were almost unique, hav trimmed save for some bibs , band of tne material eastja o eojiar mg tne loose hanging oversleeve and around the bottom. l and continued 1 down the fronts and a tlght-flttlna underaiMH. mrl and A arracefullv bent hat o1 round the bottom of the coat There practical, a band of violet velvet ran adorned with the inevitable f w a. mas dbuu eugios; " ;' e outer sleeve a tittle above tills time iney were or vioiet too. ... . the lower edge. The underaleeve was out the color scheme of the A reUy 'swagger' touch was given made of whfte lace,-Stitched around worn, by Mrs. Canfleld. and : in the Mg button of frosted gold which with narrow bands of black taffeta. sure you she looked qujte ht held down the tMb of relvet and era ... The popular circular model was naed It. - aente4 lbs ,.Xor the skirt, which waa lag and ua .paU&S t slo.U go.VM rapi 1 if "fcrln." lathers io carry lit was can aa tmlng in Usds folds of a very perfectly out and tailored suit I have seen Mrs. E. p. Morgan wear ing. You know her tailored stilts are al ways quite the. cleverest things in line ana nnisn, ana you rarely see . ner in what I call a "frou-frou"" gown. She v,. .t k.fl n dtstlnctlv military air. X7,V;inn of It anneared between D2X Tto coat waTs short, coming Jaa pyer, wjte waist and the braided belt, 2f.t"m;,-nJ"X.v the turn of the Wpa.a-4, , In.tht. sleeves met lace appeared. Vowl Vcat, Vhich starts at thai simple no" "V. - itPknd f vaieaciennes uw ww u. uap tail and moves forward to the head. I the line which ran from I shoulder to be- tn hades of deep cream and coffee SaXtt simpler features aays SJT1 low the waist in front and then around eoj'ornamanted the waist The. de- Saa. The iarthrm haroneV ari?i to the back waa nothing Shert of an came down from the shoulders and hv. moat woJrnlT iiTerSillars and ot inspiration. - . . , n- was broken by a cross line of fine sil crawling tbings. shawl collar of ; fray Velvet ana hM1' whiQh also outlined, tha voke .---til.iVL 1 tK- miMi. e tt.. bac cuffs on th Plain oaat sieeyee ,wot w. h","'S v , .,:.";r,".2hSe in wha miirtaryTaHetywtLh'orn The uppr part of the .Jeeves were sa'amJlo us to be the natural Plfj three oWesiroaae ! i and a shaped embroidered Many animal. the lobster, for eiampleJ . .lii oi and the ava a'very P'ece or me dihhiubj iu jurmou tn ana tne erayrian anq ine orau, -"'"j ef J?" am-t nortlon. Below this aDBeared the have short hearts like those of thai smart and unusual touchy v - XVVaitoinVa liceT "r' wJ J "KT "naiertheless hayoj . r . . a j A inif 1 in a nf no a hrnw on tne ruranmr ctiromr p;n. n A tiny Una of pala brpwn velvet mad them placed just under the he" .i EUWn. Blfjsj uil II IUgaJca,a vawvs.ea -p -jr. " m li. J .i w... i - arYlfllJI 3 . . mm- a.. . 4 . -as- i ji.ti..iAn . f ha n Aiif lit rwA - aiw . b. nflnniLi. union sur ilia uuiuui ivi aiwn wi ai in uui atsa y mm humiu w 1 m fifoi sMmi'M u.m ( day, hut that Uoaa. A shaped beftoa, sui m U tt,. waist, iramsa iae yea l taa Mea 1 g sr ' '.