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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Oct. 20, 1906)
EVENING, OCTOBER M, 1908. - m w r. -. : " TWO WOMEN n WHAT do you think of a vocation which onlj two women fal low? A vocation with tract poaalbllitlea of development and which pajra exceptionally wall? The two woman who have raccseded In planning an entirely naw Una at work are called 'Emergency women" and their duty to supply any emergency that may arise In the household. They must literally be prepared for anything and ready at a moment's notloe to take the place of chaperon; to act as maid at ome social function: to arrange a fu neral or wedding. In fact, there Is no and te the list f things that tba emergency woman may be called upon to do. It may readily be seen that the qual ifications must be varied If a woman is to succeed In this Work. Tact Is absolutely essential and also thorough knowledge of the usages of good society. But there are number tedless women who seem especially adapted to straightening out tangles; who can come Into a disorganised house hold and restore' tt to peace and urdpr These arc the sort of women who ssn make an excellent living and really read very Interesting life In this work. The emergency woman has numerous chances to travel and especially to take short trips. She will be called to take the children to the seashore; to accompany the girl to college, or per haps to travel with ths Invalid mother or daughter. She should live conveniently near her probable patronr, and should have a teli y one and a messenger call In or der to lose no time in receiving notlca that hei services arc needed. The very BRIDE KILLS Snapshot of Mrs. Fleiscimnn, the bride of Colonel Max Fleischmann, who has just returned from a honeymoon to the Arctic, and sketches illus trating incidenta of the trip. A FEW years ago the ways of spending the honeymoon were as hackneyed and conventional as the wedding Itself is apt to ne. but the newly wed of 1906 and 1(07 are more original. IT they like the river they spend their moncymoon In a canoe, the bride suit ably dressed and doing her share or ' the paddling, or else take their touring ear and take a trip across country, but here Is a bride who elected to spend her honeymoon by "Qreenland's Icy moun tains." Colonel Max C. Fleischmann of Cincinnati and his bride, who was Miss erah Hamilton-Sherlock, are both ex part hunters, and would rather spend their honeymoon shooting polar bears than sojourning in European hotels. The couple had many adventures and hairbreadth escapes ths Norwegian whaler Iaurs. which they chartered for ths trip, became wedged among blocks Of floating Ice off the coast of Clreen Isnd and sprung a leak, and the company ware obliged to abandon her. Mrs. i Fleischmann is delighted with her trip, and says that she enjoyed every minute of the time, notwithstanding the hard ships but hardships are of na moment If ons kills two polar bears and many birds and seals, snd that Is the bride's hunting record Colonel snd Mrs. Fleischmann were accompanied en their trip by two physicians. The Arm. Ircle trip had been laid nut before their marriage last Decern -i For their expedition they char tered, ths Norwegian whaler I .aura, als HpiP Of the Fridtjof, of Arctic fame With Captain Oyen, the Irs plkt. there wss s company of 10 ail told Ths Laura cleared from Tromsoe On June It, Beading for Spitsbergen Within 41 hours their troubles had begun. In vain I efforts to reach the coast of Greenland the I .a ura rammed tea for 47 days. Off the (team bark rigged FOLLOW NEWEST VOCATION nature of her calling admits of no delay after being sent for. The two emergency women live In New Tork and their work has been so successful that It will soon become com mon In all cities of any alas. People In moderate circumstances would often willingly pay an efficient woman to help them In an emergency and would deem It money well spent to have some one step In and relieve them of all responsibility, we sra not al ways quite sure of ourselves when it comes to giving n formal dinner or tea and would be overjoyed If we could ob tain the services of a woman who really know what s what and who's who. Another important branch Is that of hiring servants for families. "The proper ' study of mankind Is man" and the proper study for the emer gency woman is woman. She must study human nature and know how to use her Influence for the beat good of her patrona. If an emergency woman gets In touch with two or three or four easy going women of wealth and fortune favors her she should he able to make vuiiifurUMIs living without more ado. Women of that kind are delighted to throw disagreeable responsibilities on the hsnds of the emergency woman and are willing to pay her well If she will be faithful to their Interests. The emergency woman does not give advice ror notning. sne is in ue oust nesn for what there In In It and expects to be paid well for her services. -Jg- week in the life of an emergency woman would furnish food for tears and food for laughter. Her engagement book will have the oddest sort of entries and the uninitiated would scarcely be able to understand Just what they POLAR BEARS vessel became so tightly wedged as to require It days for cutting her out. Colonel and Mrs. Fleischmann landed at Spltzbergen. where the Luura wus abandoned, and viaited the ' Wellman camp. Mrs. '"Icfschmann and Mrs. Holmes wore soeepskln gowns and the men waterproof suits. Ths second day's hunting resulted In the killing of a polar bear, wioae two. rubs-were left In Eng land. The other has been presented to the Cincinnati too. In the bag were IS polar bears, 104 seals. 30 reindeer, four blue -foxes and 0 specimens of birds, Including a king cider. In his Cincinnati home Colonel Fleischmann has s private museum. In which many of the specimens, carefully mounted, will be exhibited. "I am anxious to get the skin snd horns of a Norwegian musk ox," said ths colonel, "so we left stationed on Janmayn island the second officer and one sailor of the Laura and s fur skin ner. We are going back for them next August 'We should not have abandoned ths Laura when he did." said Colonel Fleischmann. "if she had not begun to leak. She toek In five or six inches of water every day, and the pump had to be kept going. The outer akin of the Laura wss severs! times punctured by the ice, and sll hands had to take to ths floe while repairs were -being mads. 'We were up there during the long Arctic day, with sunlight 24 hours In and out. i found it difficult to sleep. Once 1 stayed on deck 10 hours on a stretch until tired nature drove ma below. At the letter end of August candle light was necessary for a few hours." "I am anxious to correct ths cabled statement that the trip coat 171.000," said Colonel Flelschmsnn. "It would be untrue for me to say the trip cost me one fourth that amount Such exagger ated statements of outlays on the part of the rich tend to bread socialism. They set ths poor against the rich,'- , meant. For Instance, on a very busy day she will take the dogs of Mrs. Much money for an airing, help the new widow to decide on the width of the border of her widow's bonnet, act as maid at a reception (the maid having left at the last moment), and In the evening play hostess for one of her clients, who Is too 111 to attend to her duties as hostess, but does not wish to give up her dinner party. If the emergency woman Is really clever she wfil probably be offered many different permanent positions and will be tempted to give up the somewhat unsure but exttemelv lucrative work of an emergency woman. Ons of the greatest temptations In this line is to become an employment agent for the well-to-do the servant question hss as xumed such proportions that ths enter gency woman is immediately confronted with the problem of supplying her cli ents with good servants But if she is strictly an emergency woman she will hot attempt to run an employment agency but will simply do the best thing possible for her clients In the "emergency." Latest New YorK Fashion Notes tt m With the tempting, bewildering array of new autumn finery before their eyes women are very likely to buy the pret ty, frivolous things first and the neces sary ones when they are forced to by the severity of the weather. Sometimes they have to go without ths things that they really need because they have spent the greater part of their allow ance upon an extravagant hat, soms perfect dream of a walat or upon an exquisite necklace which cost out of all proportion to Its value because it ia a fair Imitation of a real jeweled one. Lace shows no decline In popularity. in spite of the dire prophecies of fail ure made by certain depressing mortals And the old rule of Imitations affect ing the popularity of the real has been proved as fslse In Its way never haa anything been so Imitated and trav estied as Irish lace Yet It holds its own' and promlaea this winter to he even more extravagantly used than It was last yeaf. Rrondclnth heads the list of fabrics this fall, as It did last winter, for the dressier sorts of suits those you wear to afternoon receptions and teas, and for anything else that calls Itself a daytime affair. Plenty of the whole coatumea, which Paris has decreed for this winter, are made of It; more of them, though, of marquisette that wonderful stuff that is like a arena dins, etherlallsed. Marquisette, br the way. came in ihsi spring, out so late that it practically missed the season, and so starts off this fall like some thing brand new. Veils are more Important than ever in the calculations of the fashionable women and- the swathing, floating folds of chiffon, net, etc.. are tremendously becoming If artistically adjusted. The lace veil bids fslr to be s wintsr favor ite and the Toecabets with decorative borders are popular. White net dotted in black and embroidered In a vine trailing floral design above a hem of white chiffon Is one of the new things. Short coats, fitted or loose, and fancl ful pelerine-like wraps are favorites with Parisian furriers. Tome of the models are brald-trlr imed, others adorned with lace and embroidery, but the practical fur coat is still at its heat when of fine quality and un trimmed. The Parisian fad for shawl-like draperies has brought out some ex qulslte shawl scarfs In crepe, In soft silk and In lace, the crepe and silk scarfs being elaborately embroidered. Orapes .nie much in evidence upon the new hats, and the most luscious inloi cff'vtn are obtained In them, for they shade through many of the fash lonahle feoloiliiKS and are particularly t'- . n ... . i errecuve in tne Drowns, purpie njueavi grays ail ureens. lo rt"ti yellow, white mid purple grapes are often combined. flowers or plumes are frequently useo witn ine rruit. S'oft silk sashes with embroidered 'Pored eOges arc mttn upon some of sheer French gowns. They are ;':'er used as a short -wnlsted girdle p isr.ed around the waist several i time, drawn to the top of the girdle. swathing. In the hack, snd tied there, (h falling ends giving n short-walsted Empire suggestion. The same-arrangement Is good for any silk or ribbon sash. Sleeves are a little changed in line, but are n trifle smaller, and, on the whole, a trifle longer than they were during the summer. They are frequent ly much draped nnd slashed and com plicated in design. Attractive pony coata of astrakhan, plain or braided In black, are being shown at very moderate prices, and similar coata of the sofj brown Rus sian pony akin are desirable In this season of browns. Autumn. By Henry W. Longfellow. Thou comest, Autumn, heralded by the rain. With banners, by great gales inces sant fanned. Brighter than brightest' silks of Sa me rcand. And stately oxen harnessed to thy wain! Thou standeat, like Imperial Charis ma gne. Upon thy bridge of gold; thy roysl hand Outstretched with benedictions o'er the land. Blessing the farms through all thy vast domain. Thy shield Is the red harvest moon, sus pended So long beneath the heavens' o'er hanging eaves. Thy steps are by the farmer's prayers attended. " Like flames upon an altar shine the sheaves ; And, following thee. In thy ovstloa splendid, Thine almoner, the wind, scatters the golden leaves! i Success With the Chafing Dish ft ft HE requisites; He, she and it (the most coquettish of tea aprona) and Just "any old thing" to cook. It la a strange fact that young men like to dabble about cooking with chafing dish or over a camp fire and the girl who understands will spend most of her time displaying her fetch ing apron and going Into ecstacles over the things cooked. If he makes chocolate, drink it brave ly you may be sure, uncomplimentary ss It Is, that he will drink twice as much as he would had you made it. The Welch rarebit of his concoction he will pronounce "the bast ever.'' and It Is the girl's cue to agree with enthu siasm. You msy thank kind fortune that the newest chafing dishes are almost Im possible to tip over, so there will be no danger of a oewflugretion. It Is always well when preparing for a chafing dish evening to have some additional refreshments in reserve in case the cooks get so interested In each other that they spoil the broth. Candy Is a good thing to make, and if you are tired of the usual fudge try this recipe for molasses candy: ' Place a tables poonful oLbutter In the casserole: allow it to melt. Add one cup of brown, sugar and three cups of molassea Boll all together until they hair from the spoon; then add one cup ful of chopped tiuts, one-half cupful of raisins and one-quarter cupful of citron. Pour into buttered plates and set to cool. For your especial benefit I also ap pend two reliable rarebit recipes: you mar be that exceptional being, a tactful woman, and if so will be able to drop a few pungent hints whlls some "Lord of Creation" is bravely manipulating a creamy (?) mass of cheese and beer: Welsh Rarebit Put Into the casserole half a pound of grated cheese. Season with paprika, one teaspoonxul of mus tard, one tablespoonful of butter. Slr constantly. When dissolved add one wine glaasful of musty ale or beer. cream together, serve on toast or crack ers with coffee or beer. Nutted Omelet Beat separately the white and yolka of four eggs. Season yolks with paprika salt snd celery salt. Beat the whites Into yolks, pour into casserole, in which hss been melted a tablespoonful of butter. When the ome let Is set add ons cupful of chopped nut meats that have been stewed, one-half cupful of chopped celery and -a little parsley. Plaoe this In the middle of the omelet and turn out on platter. Try Tnto. Many home-eomlng housekeepers are bringing with them from the places they (save visited recipes for divers good things Which tempted their appetites In other places. A young woman who, while on a visit to some friends, ate chicken which she thought was fried and very dellclously fried discovered that In reality it was prepared as follows: It was first cut as If for frying, then placed in a pan. properly salted, peppered and floured, plentifully buttered snd baked in a very hot oven. When tt emerged some time later it was brown, tender and delicious. It tasted like friad chicken, only very much better; It wb certainly more wholesome, and not nearly so much trouble to cook. Moreover, with the dripping In the baking pan, a delicious cream gravy was made. Miss May Cavendish Bentinck, Who gssr IjHSb. siii w JgaHAgsa! gansaBMsiSsasnsaBW ' ggfl H f a ' . ' m i gas hh . ' jjajj ga a " U ssMgs sasa 39 ana gaFTst Sisssal bjbtS llah Baronet, in London. The prospective Bride Is a Niece of Ogden Mill AMERICAN GIBLS GIVE UP STAGE FOB BUSINESS and BSkv j&TL JtassW Marjorie WffljLy Pinder -;sfc ' t j. 5 London, Which Is Being Patronized Two pretty American girls. .Jraeeand Marjorie Pinder, who have made quite a success in light opera, have created a mild sensation by a stalwart example of Yankee practicability. Inatead of graduating from the millinery ahop to the stage, they have given up their successes On the stage for the milliner's shop. The Pinder sisters had achlsved quite a position in the productions at Daly's theatre. London, but they decided that "the profession" was less dependable than trade. Putting their savings to What the Girl ft ft ft IT IS high time to go into training If you expect to be In the running after New Tears. "The Gibson air! has had her day" and the artists are now looking for girls who fulfill their Ideal of what the girl of 1107 should be First, the artist evolves a type of beauty, half fact, half fancy, then the models, who most nearly approach the artist's Ideal endeavor by the aid of masseuse and never-ending care to be the ideal. Thet is how new types of oeauiy are evoiven, ana, strange as 11 may seem, girls Immediately spring up sll over the country who correspond exactly to the prevailing artist type. It has been truly said that women are Just what men want them to be If the call Is for blue eyes and babyish ways then the majority' of girls have china blue eyes and speak with a baby lisp. The nsxt year the style hss It to Wed John herd, Son of an Eng-Mrs. gether they leased a little store In Pont street, Belgravla, put up the name of Armlde as the ahop aign, and from the first started to do a thriving busl "The stage is all very well for girls so long ss they are young and pretty," said Miss Grace Pinder to a reporter, "but we don't always stay young and pretty, you know. It's different with the millinery business, for, so long as your bonnets and hats are pretty, it doesn't matter how old you are. So London trade and the British pound sterling ror us, if you please." r r- : : ; s . of 1907 Will Be changed, and dark. Intense beauties are the order of ths day. and presto they are there with all their mysterious charm, snd the golden-haired darling Is forgotten: But the girl of 1907 la neither a de cided blonde nor brunette she is brown and pink and white and adorable. To begin with, woman's crowning giory. ner nair, is brown with golden glints In It. the color hslr that goes wun symphonies or brown and gold. Her eyes are large and also softly brown, while her skin Is of creamy whiteness, rosy tinged. The 1007 girl Is going to be more beautiful than any of her predecessors she will be tall, willowy and graceful; she will not be stridently athletic nor avowedly domes tic, but a happy cross between the two Perhaps ths most attractive thing aoout ner wui be her perfect poise and charming simplicity. There Is quite a marked difference between Ignorant simplicity and Intelligent simplicity. It Is the latter quality that will make the new girl so beloved by all. The modistes seemingly had an Ink ling as to the 1007 girl's proportions, for they began early In the fall 'to make coats very wide at the shoulders and barred hips. "You - mustn't have any," said madame; "they are quite passe arid the latest 'gowns call for broad shoul ders and narrow hips." Consequently women have already gone Into train ing in the right direction, for be It whispered to those whom it may con cern that htpa are out of fashion and the new girl's shoulders will be broader than her htpa Poor artists models; how very, very hard some of them will have to train; how ardently they will wish "that this too solid flesh would melt." If she Is short, she will make herself tall by tue aid of high heels snd a fluffy pompadour; If she Is fat, she will become a living skeleton; she will as sume simplicity If shs have It not. and, moreover, she will succeed, notwith standing many obstacles, because she will work and work means success. The country stands ready to claim her as 'The American Olrl," illustrators will use her as a model and the heroine, whether born In the seventeenth or the twentieth century, will be the counter part of the 1907 girl. LEATHER FOR SHOES Where It Cornea Prom and How It Ia Treated. . . Russia calf, a popular leathar "for shoes for summer wear, Is made from a good quality of green skins, free from Imperfections, and finished mostly In coiors, orown being tne prevailing shade. The name la taken from the Imported Russia leather. Kid leather In vici or glased stock Is made mostly from sheepskin and fin ished either In black or brown. Dry goatskin is also used In making vie! and glased kid. and much of it Is pro duced In Philadelphia and Wilmington, Delaware. Russet leather and other high class leather for men's wear Is made from well selected hides, free from branda, scratches or any marks on the grain. This lsather Is prepared by a vegetable tannage, and ny this Is meant tanned with bark, or bark liquors, or its ex tracts. Bole leather, or bottom stock, aa It is more commonly called, Is made in oak, hemlock nnd union tanned leather; that is. bv ths veiretahl tinmiri either straight oak or hemlock bark. India goatskins are finished similar to glased kid. New England has been noted for this finish. In what Is com monly railed India dulls. It being a dull finish. A great deal of this stock Is cut ia the shoe towns of New Una-land msking men's goods for topping. These skins are tanned In India and finished In this country, mostly In black. Enamel leather, for shoes Is a dressy and fins textured leathar. It ia made I'M Becipes to Try m, n Orange Cocoanut Salad. Peel and slice a dosen oranges, grata. a cocoanut, and slice a pineapple; put alternate layers ot each until the dish is full; then pour over them sweetened wine; serve with email cakes. When oranges are served whole, they should be peeled and prettily arranged In a fruit dish. A small knife 1b best for this purpose. Break the skin from the stem Into six or eight even parts. peel each aectlon down half way, and tuck the point in next to the orange. ' " ' '. t To Bake Tomatoes. Cut six large round tomatoes in halves after peeling. Take out the seeds snd All the cells with a stuffing of fins bread crumbs, seasoned with butter, salt and pepper, and to enough to fill a half dosen tomatoes add a level teaspoon of sugar and three drops of vinegar. -Fit the halves together and tie a string round. Set the tomatoes in a baking dish, pour, in two tablespoons of hot water with a salt spoon of sugar dissolved in It, Bake until done, but not soft enough to fall out of ahape. e a Fish S.lad. Six cold boiled potatoes cut into small cubee, two on l ins and one cucumber sliced, one tablespoonful minced para ley, two hard-boiled eggs cut fins, II sardines, flaked; garnish with split sar dines, capers and parsley; serve on let tuce. .:'' ' Tt Luncheon Oranges, Pretty luncheon oranges are made by cutting a piece off the top of each or ange and taking nut all the pulp. Cut the edge or the orange, peel in points. and mix the pulp with ahredded cocoa nut and sugar. Add a tea spoon ful of sherry or oreme de menthe to each glass, pile a little cocoanut on the top and serve with a sprig of dark green leaves on the plate. Cheese Flavored Spaghetti. Just a delicate cheese flavor may be imparted to spaghetti by preparing it with a cream sauce and serving It In a cheese shell. Add a roux of flour and butter In proportion of two tableepoon fuls each to a pint of milk and simmer the spaghetti already cooked tender in It for 10 or IT, minutes. After It la turned Into the cheese ehell let It sim mer a few minutes in tne oven. from cow hides, split down to the right weight, but also hss been mads from goat and kangaroo skins. It is finished on the flesh side, the enameling being put on by a stiff brush, sfter which it Is smoothed off with pumice stone and a very smooth surface secured. Then It Is stretched on boards and varnished and set where a current of air will hsrden It. In making patent leather the vege table tannages are the beet, a combina tion of oak and hemlock bark or their extracts, with the addition of que bracho. Mostly large, sprendy weatern htdea are used, and they are split down to the weight desired. - stretched with toggles or secured to frames before be ing japanned, and then placed in a dry room for several days. The dyeing of leather for shoes haa nOw nearly reached perfection, and can he produced in numerous different shades and colorings. For ths black skins they are now dyed in the drum wheel, but for colors they are more often dona In trays or on table with aniline dyea. jj UA-Jj