Image provided by: University of Oregon Libraries; Eugene, OR
About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Nov. 21, 1902)
, BREAKFAST AND TEA GOWNS FOR THE WINTER MONTHS 8 U w - jh v c r i . when tht fashlonabla maid or matron Is not on dress parade, aro shown In treat profusion and In as great a variety. atiAKmp Th woman, young or old. does not sxlst who does tVOVtl not delight In tho hour when she may attire herself In a bewitching and yet a loose gown. - Twice In every - twenty-four hours may thess much ruffled, much tace- bedecked garments be donned with perfect propriety. Breakfast gowns, tea gowns, gowns for milady's boudoir,, and smart jackets and coats to be worn Whlle the well-dressed woman usually comes to the breakfast table gowned for her club,, a lecture or a promenade, there are, now and again, mornings when she needs a perfect rest, and for such an occasion the long trailing lace-trlmmed gown is fitting. Between the dark and daylight tea gowns come out. while when lounging In her own sanctum, after a long day on the links or a hard walk, the charm ing jackets especially adapted for negligees are donned. ' In material these gowns are made of silks, satins, soft, dainty cloths, and ribbons and lace form a large part of their design. When lace is omitted, then the ever-becoming chiffon Is brought In play. Several things, however, are necessary In the con- blue crepe It- Is trimmed with bands of Persian embroidery,.- and a girdle ..of the same is tied loosely about tho -waist. ,Thejacket effect is also edged with the embroidery, and big, full sleeves of lace complete a handsome gown.',. While a mauve serge trimmed with white luce is less extravagant t in design and texture, still It is lovely In its simplicity... : 'This gown is to be worn at twilight, and Its full, long gracefulness comes from the shoulders. It is SMART f TtA - structloh'of a govn of thlsdesign it must, first of all, be in one piece; then long and loose, and, of all things, becoming. Beautiful Is a handsome breakfast gown of pale round at the neck, being filled In with Russian lace, and the big, flowing sleeves are also finished with It. For the frosty days when there Is a charm In red, a pretty, simple gown, was recently made. It has a Watteau back and U full in front from the bust, fitting In snugly over the hips. In lavender and white comes a pretty gown to lie worn while studying or writing. It Is finished with a ruffle at the bottom and about the sleeves, while the same simple trimming is upon the full, broad collars. Smart. Indeed, Is the Jacket of pink brocaded silk, trimmed with embroidered chffon 1 and lace. The Ri-AlsTAVr L esSaw Jacket is snug and short, with a deep flounce of the chiffon, and this, In turn, Is edged with Irish guipure. THE QUEEN OF SPAIN'S LOVE-STORY. The Spanish court has in the last few days supplied a bouquet of extraordinary stories of that peculiar luridness and improbability that we are accustomed to only in dispatches from Vienna and Shanghai the two centers, which, .since the death of the late Ananias, hold the record for fertility of invention. Tha point of these stories Ih the startling new light In which the King and the Queen . Mother, of Spain - are set fotjth to the " world; 'yet. when one' reflects on' the" Wild possibilities of the Happsburg Cfood. and Its past vagaries, one Is led to pause be fore discrediting the wtoole tale as a mere piece of sensational tjionsense. First, we are told that the Queen Mother, Maria Christina, whom we have been accus tomed to look on as a hy pietist, of a somewhat sour and Inhuman type. Is real ly a heroine of romance who would have wan the heart of Alexandre Dumas. Thr good lady Is declared to have fallen deep ly In love, when she' was a mere girl, with a certain Count de la BscosUrn. the two fervent hearts plighting an eternal troth. Then dire necessity overtook them: for the princess was compelled to make one of those reluctant marriages of State that take so much gilt off the royal gin gerbread; and the bitterness of separa tion had to be endured. After a long interval. It is said that the two severed hearts are once more Joined; the Queen, having discharged her .star duties in pro ducing and rearing an heir to the throne, has decided that It Is her turn now, and has morganatlcally married her count, so the story says, on her' recent visit to Austria. If this he true, we most sin cerely wish -them all happiness, aceord- lngrw ftie- tjsdirtcm of "sfttinar-f airy tsies.-...-r Harper:, weekly.,... ,:..,,;'.".v:.....:;: ;.'.....' A WARNING TO PROPHETS. ProphOejIf is a dangerous gift, and we submit" to S .number of estimable gentle men, of whom the Rev. pr. Slicer' is a fair type, that In dealing with a ques tion of such grave importance as the coal Strike,' (.'pelr. published utterances 'should be carefully guarded. It can serve no possibly good end to announce to the world that "unless the public necessity for coal be promptly relieved this city will witness lawlessness and anarchy." By just such unwise utterances as this are the seeds of lawlessness and anarchy sown. When a man of Dr. Siicer's po sition says that "in this city of l.too.000 Inhabitants you wilt find half a million who will refuse to tamely see their fam ilies suffer end die,' and continues to pre diet an uprising, hs clearly exceeds the limits of propriety, broad as is the li cense In speech Ordinarily permitted "to his cloth. It is very true that there is reason for grave apprehension as to the comfort of a larce proportion of Ihe dwellers In this and other cities from the.1 O soul, re one cometh to reckon." But he, the proud soul, laughing lightly, Looked up'where the sun was unrisen. And said, "I will slumber till daybreak." So he turned on his pillow, and, dreaming, Saw laurels Inwoven to crown him, And wealth for his taking, and Beauty. With love in her eyes, run to meet him; Then he woke to a step In the doorway, "All night at thy feet lay thy wishes Now I take them," one said, and departed. Sharlot M. Hall, in November "Success." EsrsotPerslstent"tpW r The contract offered y the sunny, cneerrui age or concord to his gloomy dysneMIc friend, the Bars of Chelan, la T hrtnfrht into mtwiblntr V. ... ,.l curtailment or tneir juei-suppiy, nut it is , f an anecdote of Charles Kingley's. Car the mission of our preachers and pub- jy, ,t ,em, had been bored by Emer llcists generally to do all that they can to ( toifi persistent optimism, and undertook aueviaie mn uiisi.ua. iini m mumr wm- , io cure mm or it. "i took nun, he said, pestuous feelings by wise counsels, tem perately and adequately expressed, not by suggestion to incite the thoughtless and misguiaea on to aeeas oi violence. Lawlessness and anarchy will not serve to cure the evils of xne situation; tney "to the lowest Pnrts of London and allow ed him ell that was going on there. This done, I turned to him, saying: 'And. noo, mon, d'ye believe In the deevll noo?1 'Oh. no, replied Emerson, 'all these people. Mem 10 me oniy pans oi xne great ma- wlll. on the contrary, merely aggravate , chine, and. on the whole, I think they are them, and every lota of Dr. Slicer's in. , doing their work very satisfactorily.' fluence should be exerted to discourage , Then," continued Carlyle, I took him the notion that these things can or will ! doon to the House of Commons, where be. What we need most at this juncture , they put us under the gallery. There I Is calm and temperate reason. We can ' showed him ane chiel getting up after get along without prophecy, particularly ' anither and leelng and leelng. There I of the sensational and frrational sort so , turned to him and said: 'And noo, mon, much affected by . persons , of too fluent i d'ye believe In the decvij, noo?' He made, speech. Harper's Weekly. ' " me, however, -just -the same answer-aw-be- ' i n- ' I fore, and I then gave him up In despair. The Givers, At the house of a soul once came knock ing The first of s line of gift-bearers, etose-veHed, and light-footed as silent; v And speaking with voice soft and tender. "Lo, here Is a season for growing," He said, then passed into the stillness, Leaving his room to a brother. And they that came after him softly Set down in the doorway their burdens, And whispered, "Make use of them swiftly. Success: Luxury Does Not Brine Achieve amet. The history Of our country la a record! journalists, inventors giants in every de partment of life how they stand out from the pages of history, those poor boys, an inspiration for all time t thou who are born to fight their own way up to their own loaf! The youth who Is reared In a luxurious home, who, from the moment of his birth, is waited on by an army of ser vants, pampered and indulged hy over fond parents, and deprived of every in centive to develop himself mentally or physically, although commonly regarded as one to beenvted,. Is more , to bej)lt Ted.nhaTJoorsC'hi'fl?t humbly born boy or girl in the land. I'nless he is gifted with an unusual mind, he Is In danger of becoming a degenerate, a para site, a creature who lives on the labor of others, whose powers ultimately atro phy from disuse. O. S. MardfMn Suc cess for November. Our Leisure Class Is a New One. Though they cannot safely do more than one thing at a time, the rich give to themselves as many varieties of grat ification as possible. They have horses and carriages, and some of them racing stables; they have country places and hunting lodges and seaside villas; they have camps in the mountains and game preserves In the remote places where dense population does not crowd wild game too closely: they have vanhts to race and other yachts in which to sail, or. rather, steam to whatever sea their fantT"'"nrttSthyMhiveiifomobiiesH tney nave aog aenneis; yieir women ioiks have Jewels which the old-time chroni clers would have spoken of as worth a king's ransom, and, wherever they are, at home or abroad, on land , or on sea, thev eurround- theme!- ' with v flowers almost aa . precious In cost as their Jewels. used to be that In America It was only three generations from shirt sleeves to shirt sleeves. A man made a fortune, his children lived on It, his grandchil dren were shabbily genteel on trie scant and mental development, so that what the boy can do best may not be the bent of the man at all. The relation of the faculties Is greatly changed by the special training of one remains, and Ills great-grande.hlldren were set of bralu faculties, so that what was obliged to WKin all over ngain at mr bottom, and, -with coats off. labor shoul der to shoulder with the humblest, re gardless of their antecedents. John Ol'. mer Sl'oed In Success for November. x -jh-a- - Mwa.-jL-i. . almost .m.j)ibjww -ytv un "1 "t.u",-,2y." wno .seemed To enjoy all these things, even casuallv i" ""j?""?"''.?""1 '1 lr?m. OOOKS. cul-i reoulres leisure, and never till now were except mat of the h. mnv ture and education, t. i - j j m l . " - , I iici O xilrtii v men sit i , 1 eYrjr P- for enjoyment. It is only, with this gen portunKy for mental development. The nratlon that a leisure class has bean da youthful Llncolns. Franklins. HmlitL 1 r.-?". v... i ? .tl n S: blmeP t' Mble ,, u.J-umVrtau wer"! not became Presidents, lawyers, statesmen, i.... nn,,H .h., ,i, mm mi, .it orators, merchants, educators, the members of a family rich, and so It soldiers, Rules for- Breathing. If one's health is Impaired, or If he wants to preserve It and Increase " Tils power to resist dlsea!-. ha must, first of all. arlvs attention to his breathing. Even food and drink are second In Importance to this, for one can live for days without nutrition save the air breathed, but If de prived of that even Tor a few mlnues. life ceases. Here are some of the first rules for acquiring a correct method of breathing, as given by i specialist, who has made an exhaustive study of the sub ject: 1. After retiring at night, release body and mind from all tension, and take full and regular Inhalations through your nostrils; hold the breath about one sec ond; take all the tjme you can to exhale It; keep this up until you are weary or fHll asleep. 2. When you wake In the morning, repeat the exercise at least four or five minutes: longer, if time permits. 3 Dur ing the day take as many full respirations as possible, exercising care with the ex halations. While taking these exercises, MMthewlcL fceax. In tnittil.JJiS .thousjjtjjiai he- is Inhaling new life and power. "Suc cess." . . . Sticking to the Last. - A great many young people earmnt: tell, when hey flrst start out. where thetr real bent lies; they Cannot tell what they, can do best; but, as they develop more, their strong qualities come out their pre dominant faculties push their way to the front. Again, a college course or sn ad vanced course of education develops facul ties which had lain dormant, perhaps from disuse. In other words, the entire setting of the mental faculties often changes a great deal during one's physical dominant at the outset of an education or a course of training may become sub ordinated by other faculties which have pushed themselves forward In the course of developments. N man should stick lo his last If he is convinced that he is In the wrong place and that there Is a possibility of satisfy ing his Inclination elsewhere. No "man should slick to his last, ir a change is possible, when he Is conscious that he is getting his living by his weakness Instead of his strength. No man should stick to his last, when to do so will tie him forever to commonness or mediocrity, If a larger.' fuller expres sion of life Is possible. No man should stick to his last when a better and higher way Is open to him. No man should stick to his last when he finds that to do so will cramp his better life and handicap his career. Orison Swett Marden, In Success for November. Thanksgiving Luncheon Menu. I. Pineapple. ' Chicken Houlllon. Wafers. Cream Flih In Ramlkms. Hrown ISresd. - - -or Tmm-marmSM$r3m?' fauce. Creamed Potato Baits. Knll. Coffee. " fff'rtng Ftesn Baled.""" Cheese Wafera. . Cuafard Souffle. MarshTnanoCa'k: ' 7 FruitSalal.'" Cream of iviiM-y Soup. Itread Sticks. Frl"l Oyatem with Tartar Hauca. Brown Bread Sandwiches. Tartrldge. Potato Croquettes. Bonn. Coffe. Winter Sslad. Che Balls. - Ire Cream Molds Candled Ginger. Cake. The I'llgrlm for Nqvamber. i HOW THE CHINESE EMPRESS ENTERTAINS. Her August Majesty Tie His An, Dow ager Kmpress of China, and her worthy adopted son. his Imperial Majesty Kwang Hsu. offer a charming contrast to the angry passions of the Spanish royalties. Recently, to mark the renewal of per fectly good relations between China and the powers, the worthy Empress Dow ager gave a "ffink tea" to the ladles of the embassies and ministries at Peking, It Is reported thst her Celestial Majesty was-nrbanity 4iself; -tltese was something -even kittenish snd sprightly In her greet ing to her guests. This dear old lady, who was so universally anathematized only two years ago, and who was report ed by the veracious news-providers of Shanghai to have boiled two or three, ambassadors In oil or filled them up with melted lead, was decked, it seems, in a magnificent gown of blue silk, embroid ered with golden butterflies snd birds. Her hair was done in the Manchurlan fashion, with two huge bows, or butter flies at the side, and her smile was sweet snd winning. Emperor Kwang Hsu stood beside his adoptive mamma, sweet-tempered and affable, Ms olive face lit up with a playful smile. He allowed" the dear old lady to do all the talking, through a charming Chines damsel, the daughter of a former Chinese minister to Berlin, who speeks German and English fluently. The Dowager Empress wore JUid)fhetUM.h')es1,omewh4.fleesj:x. ., precaution, if. as js cseoioiy reported, rhe Is even shorter in stature than -was Queen Victoria, the two august ladles, who between them, governed half the human race, averaging something less than Ave fee tn height. -Most amusing wits the end-nf thle reception, for -the -Dowager retired t her bedroom, taking two of her lady guest with her, and all Ihree-oUmhed into a huge bed: where, It is said, they played cst's cradles. This particularly delighted Kwang Hsu, who esme In while the game was going on. Altogether, these royal personagee, the world over, are very much in the publld evi. in thl so-called twentieth century.- Harper's Weekly. Studies in Black and White Go wns.l & Gowns Worn by Miss Ethel B&rrymore m & In Her New Play, The Country Mouse. l '' Z -jj mmsm. -m&Bfm--- fmimmmmm, . iur -MMIm- ' Ww. r l . fittS JtSilLl ( - II mffjfflM)' ' ' in her play, The Country Mouse. Is that they arc V, il ' ' v II "WliyiOT ;rwf pressed yung . . . X' . lp M . J$J U -i Itr-"ajir ISI'l Ui T I IVtJfl'lEt; t. F-MM1 1 -BT-sML'. iei if VJF-mWk v.iK I iwa. vumijr limn llivr m . 1 o'L : SM VjftV t?irr.-r (nM'AlVvYV Mel M4rTi PK-l! IVX 1 owns worn oy the otner wonien th cast, but ele- . ,. ' .t.-MWfflW TaNfA ittfcrl i?:i2Tje'fTWTwr?rura -irit-f rri itf'js -sz, txy.risa 4H i-mumm ;;&m-44m-H ' .9,0 : .W WSI -V ri.-gav1. .fii. . f vs. , VHsTSwX V a f sFT ill Li .r , - aB" s , p mm - aa ' ---- - flr-sja- - lI J .1 II Si IF I I sf F' t t I a 1 j- . : r c v. 7 "vrsLv .rwrtiArwt r . r - nv r c t .-w7- . mi mm mum mn r, " -t is- t ? t i an t m -t t t trii K-t-v-t- t a V . IV . -W -asw- V. "aW. -Jt"r-'i W J a I IfNf W -sr . W . - SB- .1 T" I I - .- apr ' - TSaai "Bja fTTV iW T MM-., M'MJV i TW M M M I '1 I. 1 I - " i -----rjmxm- Sxqnisltelr beautlfui ar 'tha aventng vv r CfVM Ar uia gay functions of. the coming season. 7-.--4 Whether-these toilettes are to be wont at dinner or dance, each and every one of them seems more fplendtdlv beautiful nr Pn tha Uir daacer . Is not MinffJPih two-step. While I?h- lSl.l,t?n(1 ;wWs-reereted i L tnot becoming snd bewitching ofjivenlng gowns there seems to be a gret partiality this autumn in favor of lace gowns. These come in all white lace over white slik. The mmi u tri, re .u. relied with filmy black lace, the floral' de- emaH petternr- Pour -times wera the- Hnest Af tk. .IM KmwUah V. . i . . - . . . bands, and above those was appliqued velvet ,- ; , - . . - . - The low enrsnsre and strnns of velvet With Jewel or flower, the inodlata retvlnar J upon the loveliness of her patron to set forf -the- rsttif - tm dress is flowered laee Over white silk, -ahd the skirt has two deep flounoes upon it. These are edged with two rows of delicate Insertion ind the same trlra- ed perfectly the demure little girl that Angela Mulf was supposed to be. The soft: clinging skirt with an accordion pleated ruffle, headed by medallions of yel lowish lace, the simple little bodice gathered in at the waist by a broad white silk belt, and finished at the neck with a soft, fluffy ruffle of lace and chiffon. were ideal, and when on starting for the opera the dearest little three-quarter length coat of the same material was donned, it made as pretty a picture as one would wish to see. In the second act Miss Barrymore wore a pale gray linen dress: so pale a shade that It was almost im- possible to know if it were gray or pearl white. The- skirt wairrtlght-fmmg to the knee and finished with a deep knife pleating, with a heading of heavy whits , lace insertion. The waist, which ' waa made with a blouse in the back, was laid In flat pleats hi front ' and opened over a chemisette of ths lace. .s. Miss Barrymore's youth and sUmnesa enable her B(V.r fhaf mnt trvtna- aTTvTff,. ttim AnTljLrlM btfwita. . In the last act the white muslin with blue ribbons, and the immense white picture hat turned flat to the crown in front, were extremely pretty and youthful. V' The ros which nestled under the hat's brim, Just touching Miss Barrymore's smooth brown hair, was a : most becoming- touch. t In fact. Miss Barrymore. bad the walked Into any drawing room In ths land dressed as she was, would have appeared a thoroughly well-dressed woman. ... ; - . : ' ' ". m wis na.u jutv ...-; . Forbidden Speeek. Th passion -you forbade my lips to utter vein ur K spokeat"- All Katare understand! and sympathises ' With human passion. When the.restlea i Knpw that ovr pent-ue tnitttlng A cypher measarfa tot y.-ur orV a avil. And ben th lawlMa wirula ru'.. by jr.-i, - ahrlektn, I.et y.nir h.-i t v, "y w r ' ' . : - '!
