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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Aug. 29, 1902)
BECOlVflNGNESS AND OCCASION DECIDE STYLE OF COIFFURE. l. - taAVOf.rik.bn. m,VWM C"le" "d Artistic The Maree, wave. Hair Dressed Higlu tn arranging th hair one's first oonnld eratipn should bewhat la becoming; their second, the occasion. For evening the hair should be dressed high. At Jut whet angle must be decided by the Individual, but no matter now high or low it is word be sure and have It at a becoming angle. t One very pretty mode of dressing the hair Is shown having a high pompadour In front and drawn clsel'y to the head at the back and arranged In three puftn on top of the head. The Marcel wave is used, aw! the effedt is very stylish. For morning the hair can be arranged very prettily oy parting it In tho center and drawing r well down over the ears and then brushing It softly back and gath , erlng It into a soft knot at the napa of the neck. Another style of "sslng the hair is shown, that Is very v""- and artistic In -v effect. The. hair Js fluffcsw all around tho 4. Latest Style. head and arranged In two soft puffs, mod erately high. A few soft curl on the forehead completes the artistic effect. For a woman who likes her hnlr very elorely dressed there la a style of dreading that can scarcely be sal'l to be nrtlstle, yet at the same time It la becoming to some faces. The hair Is drawn very closely at the back nnd aides with a very slight jonipadour and iirfrangvd Into a rioubleknot on the crown or the head. The woltaan who ha a well shaped head can shfw It to advantage by parting her hair In the center and drawing It rather closely down behind the ears and arrang ing It In three rather Jose buffs rlgfrt above the nape of the rfeck. The half should he waved and havea curl or two on the forehead. A neat style of dreeslngand suitable for almost any afternoon of evening oc- casion. la Very careless and VrtJUtc. The hair Is drawn looaej.w'in 1 natural wavy effect And aanged'Tnto f flat knot on top of trftSJkurfd. It Iswelliown over the for!iead orrrhe.-"sTO?rwlth a few curls escaping here and there. RUFFLES and BOAS for FAIR THROATS. They Come in Many Varieties of Lace and Chiffon Ir3gf3&0k Many Varieties of I f J 4ff- (! 'wft if Mf $& A i ll Will tfht Ml liMISl COST Or LIVING. !UI"Fa nd boas come 'In. a wide variety of materials, but thote ' made of chiffon are quite the prettiest, and If of a good quality are the most ser viceable. On Very pretty boa is of gray chiffon. With white dots. f It la made cape effect, with the chiffon accordion plaited and set on a silk foundatlonjn such a manner as to form pointed ruf fles; the edge of each ruffle being trimmed with a quilling of the chiffon. The long accordion-plaited ends are edged with the quill ing and end In a full double ruffle. Another chiffon creation Is In white.- accordion - plaited and trimmed with very full rosettes of black ribbon velvet , There are three accordion-platted ruffles, each edged with a double quilling of fha chiffon, headed with rosettes of the velvet aet very close together. ( The long ends are trimmed lengthwise, with rosettes of the velvet, and velvet also trims the deep ruffles at the bottom. For the woman who Is partial to lace trimmings there Is a boa of black chiffon made on the same lines as those for merly described. A collar of Arabian lace Is set on "top of the ruffles, and extends In two long points In front The ends have a double ruffle at the bottom and long loops ojf ribbon at the top. " A neat boa Is of pale yellow chiffon embroidered "in white. It Is very simply made with three gathered ruffles, edged with tiny lace trimmed ruffles. The ends are not as long as the usual run, and are tied vary near the bottom with bows of black ribbon velvet ' 1 It seems to cost a great deal to llye nowadays. Most persona notice It. enpe clally persona, who are hard put to It to find the money to Day their bills. The statisticians renort. that commodities In general use cost on an average about 10 per cent more than they did a, year airo. The rise In the price- of meat contributes a good deal to this advance, though breadstuffs have been hlKh, too. Articles of luxury like good clothes and country houses have grown dearer In proportion than most articles of necessity, because the huge Influx of money that the coun try has sustained lias made a brisk mar ket for luxuries. Rents are hlKher: houses cost moro. servants get hlsher wages; board Is higher at summer ho tels. Another thing that counts for a great deal Is that In prosperous times like these the Incomes of yry many people are Increased and their expendi tures are proportionately ampnnea. xney spend more money. Uve more luxuriously, and raise the standard of living. The liv ing expenses of anv given family ore very much affected by the expenses of other families of their acquaintances, and the scale of living of "other families" seems Just now. to have become lnconven ietnly liberal. There Is nothing that wo ere readier to share than our economies. It Is easier to economize when It Is the fashion. Just now prcdagallty -is conspicu ously prevalanet that It has become more or less epidemic Haroer's Weekly. HARDY AND SHAKESPEAR. A short time ago Sir George Douglas. Bart., read a paper on Thomas Hardy, at the Whltefrlars Club, London. In which h prophesied that the present age would b. known at the end of the century as th age of Hardy. He compared Hardy to Shakspeare. classifying him among '.In f;reat Impersonal writers. To one charge n Sir George's paper we must take cb jectlon. He maintained that Hardy was not a stylist; he simply expressed meaning in homespun prose, and fell far below Stevenson as a master In styb'. Now as stylo R the form which perpetu ates art and gives tt a' Alen On Immor tality, it seems to us that Sir-George Is strangely inconsistent In Hhus dafnaging the claim he makes for Hardy's greatness. The fact that Just because Hardy Is im personal, and not Individual or personal, his stylo varies In richness of tone re cording to his theme. Tho Shakspeare who wrote "King Lear" is the Shakspeai-e who wrote "As Youj'LIke It." The llanl who wrote "The Return of the Native" is the Hardy who wrote "Under the On'tn wood tree "Vet how vastly different the style -of each author In these contrasted works! Indeed, Hardy's artisflo susaeptl blllty to the temper of his subject is one of his great gifts. It Is nowhere so strik ingly exemplilled as in the description of Teas among the sun-flushed, sun-kissed maidens at Crick's farm, and later When in her desolation she works in thi turnip fields. Mr. Lionel Johnson tells us how Oliver Madox Brown, lying on hi ikath bed, had the first chapters of "Far I'rom the Madding Crowd" read to him. out of the Cornhlll Magaslne, which had lost refused a story of his own. "No womh.r." the boy exclaimed, "they did not want my writing!" vAnd, adds Mr. Johnson. Timt has shiawn that there is little writing by moredn mn which Is more wanted, mre acceptable, than the writing of Mr. Hardy. Harper's Weekly. EFFETE, LANG. ' The worst use of slang Is not when It is fresh and pluuant but when It becomes stale and passes into the regular vocabu lary of the people, to the exclusion of good English. 'Such expressions as "I can see hla finish." when they are first ut tered, are often used with considerable humorous effect. But the language Is im poverished and vulgarised by the habitual use of "turn-down" for reject; "call down" for a mild rebuke, "roast" for a severe one, etc. After these expressions have beensjused for a certain time they ought to be taken out of circulation, along with the ragged banknotes Toronto Globe. BEAUTIFUL town of cream Renais sance over rich golden brown taffeta baa the skirt cut with the flare at the bottom, the top fitting very closely about the hips. Accordion plaiting of cream liberty gatnte. this In turn edged with a double ruchlng of the same, trims the bottom of the skirt The Renaissance is put on perfectly plain In order to show pattern to better vantage, and down to half the depth GOWN FOR SUMMER EVENING. extends bf i, w ..'V..- -. . tr':? U Mm ' mMm ' mmt WMk tl& i ft $5 7k wK of the ruffle. The waist has a yoke of the Renaissance, from which the accor dion phi I ted, liberty gauze Is drawn down to the belt In front, ths rest of the waist being of the Renaissance over the brown. A largo knot of brown - and cream lib erty gauze with long hemstitched ends, one brown, the other cream,- la worn below the left shoulder. A Ion white feather boa tipped with brown, and a soft cream straw picture hat with black ostrich plumes com plete tha beautiful effect A charming Empfra evening gown, which is so much lit vogue present, la mad in Llbertv tln, and In the aoft pink of a blush rot, tha corsage bejng closely covered with little sham. rock leaves, while draped about the decollete it a frilled fichu f white erepe gauss, whose lonf- endt fall far down the eklrt in' front Tha broldered satin la used at first for tha making of tha ' sleeves, but It toon lva placate a toft and Iranspartnt fullness of "the gaute, which la eaught la at the wrist by a llttla tacked band. For thote who prefer a more closely fitting ttyla Ultra la' a dresa of begonia pink satin, which it made distinctly by a trellla- work design of pearlt and dia monds to take the place f the more ordinary lace chemisette. Draped below the shimmering ' and shining tracery, thr la a deep berths of lac patterned " with roses, whose petals are all outlined with pearls and scattered lightly with diamond dewdroptj while a tracery ot tiny pearl ' edges all itt fullness, "and catch ' ing it up In front Is a great pearl buckle. And escaping from thla-; decorative bondage, long acaif ends of the mellow-tlnttd lac fan to the hem of the aklrt, and la their cascading career reveal th presence of other pearlt, to that they form a very effeetlv trim, ming for the gracefully hanging tklrt which for the rest la An. ished off with a trta of little trill. POSED BY MISS ELEANOR BURNS, OF "THE CHINESE HONEYMOON." HATS, GOWNS AND JEWELS OF THE LONDON SEASON. m Bf Wklt SUV Oowav Wilt Caip, Dropped Over Fa. ji long coat of black eilk ha a collar IMind revert of all over lace. Th, gown , worn at the tame time la pink n)ri4 . .. red chiffon, , made -over liberty ' a luxe, Tha aklrt. Is cut with a flare whh is ' trimmed with , rows of tlr.y -ruffles. The . waist" Is made very, full and- trimmed about the. neck, which is decollete, wivh opala, i also worn. The hat la whit chip, drooped well over the face, and a carf of black liberty satin la folded about the crown, which le very' flat On the back of the hat which droops close to the head, is a large cluster of pink silk rokn, and under the brim on both aides, they appear resting on the hair. : An odd thlntr about on waist In tlmtr It gvtRg an odd effect to the waist, jrhlch made of pale blue corded silk and white chiffon. It it made very full, with a blouse front' and Is trimmed with folds of the silk mlatd with shirred chiffon. The neck is cut square, with a decided dip on the right shoulder, and ia trimmed with folds ot the silk, ending in a full how nt th front "of -tha oorse:.' The Tuimlit NaeUaea, DlamoaA Poadamt. mond pendant looks erettv with this, and a band ot blue ribbon around the hair, which la dressed low. the rib bon terminating In a bow Just below th lert ear. -. - : A 'pretty waist I mad of ecru batiste. Th square yoke tt bavtly embroidered In a fanciful design and a broad band of the same embroidery extend from the Ckiffon Hat WltK Bnttercnpa. topat nwcklsce, ending In front with a (designs traced In ribbon velvet between topaa pendant ' leach cluster, Th neck "is decollete, out a ooa made or tnree. mines or net, edged with satin ribbon, is worn with this. The hat, which la very flat ia of black Wtfrnn .- nrnfnonliv ttim.t "rlK- kitOM. to equar. and - the- sleeves are tucked the elbow, wnere tney form a puft 4 - The Jewels worn are pearls anil dia monds. A tiara of diamonds, a eoilar of perls, with diamond oJasps, . and pearl chiffon, cupa A gown of black net ha th tklrt "tuck and diamond pins on the corsage, Eraee- enrled half we td In clusters all the way around and Is L.ktti of pearl and a featr. fan," wuh a rT ' Black TIt Oow. Nll , hat th skh-t corded fmtti th 't to V head of the circular flounce, wui.-h u embroidered chiffon. The wmIsi Is i--Me and trimmed around tun t o v a drmDervof heavy snkv erntifii '. ' v, I made to blouse very tml l;i f i In ft penrl-trlrnmed bit. n V front t . f