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About Lincoln County leader. (Toledo, Lincoln County, Or.) 1893-1987 | View Entire Issue (July 5, 1912)
j.ra.-ii'u.vv.. -j- ... ,..,. .., ... - . -. .'. ;. . What the r . Well-Dressed JHHt Woman ? Will Wear F AIUS. Separate blouses are as Important an Item In the ward robe as can well be Imagined. Some radical changes are ap pearing In blouses, but the borne seamstress will not And any thing especially difficult to deal with unless some or the sleeves bother a. bit The kimono sleeve Is still seen, but It is being supplanted by set-in sleeves of various kinds. Many of the newest blouses are cut with the dropped shoulder, and wltn this a long sleeve gathered Into a deep cuff Is often seen. Armholes are con siderably larger and most of the sleeves are set Into them without full ness. Not entirely so, however, for occasional blouses and waists are seen with slight fullness at the top of the leeve. Sleeves are all sorts of lengths, from the decidedly short ones on the eve Ding gowns to the unusually long ones on some of the afternoon frocks and separate blouses. Many of the elbow and three-quarter length sleeves are bell shaped, and when the warm days come this shape will be comfortable aa well as pretty. Come Below the Waist Line. So many blouses are extended b? low the waist line now, and many of these are as pretty as possible. Some times the blouse material is left the desired length below both on the front' and back and cut square across the bottom. Then the circular peplum Is need as a finish In some cases, and if one Is Ingenious In the manner of trimming and finishing some beautiful blouses will result. Blouses are not seen with much full, cess (n the front, although there are more tucks or gathers at the should ers, ending at a yoke neck, than for merly. But there must be no blouslng at the waist line. The slight fullness across the bust Is becoming to prac tically every one, and even one plait laid at the shoulder end will make a great difference In the bocomlngness or unbecomlngness of a blouse. tn the dropped shoulder seam and the large armhole the sleeve Is set Into the armhole and stitched the same as a man's shirt sleeve, having the body part lap over the top of the sleeve and then stitched through from the right side Instead of making an ordinary seam. Usually this dropped shoulder seam Is accented by a cord ing or piping or a band of trimming .or insertion. The under- arm and leeve eeam are sewed in one contin uous seam. Cnre must be taken In basting to see that It Is coming out exactly rlgjjt at the bottom. ' Gives Diversity. The mnjorlty of blouses are collar- less, and when necessary a blouse may be changed Into a high necked affair by wearing one of the separate set or lace gulmpes. Front, back and side closings are all used, with so much latitude In every respect there Is no excuse for wear tag. anything unbecoming. All the -usual materials are used for blouses, besides a few new ones. The many lovely wash materials, 'from the finest handkerchief linens to the cotton voiles and marquisettes, -and among the less expensive ones the cross barred muslins and lawns, give one a wide range from which to choose. Then the soft silks and sat ins, tome of them veiled In marqui sette or chiffon, and some made with out the veiling, are most attractive for the separate blouse. It Is not es pecially easy to use chiffon and mar quisette; it gets away from one so easily In the handling. Cut the veiling out exactly like the lining, and watch out while you are doing It to see that it lies straight and smooth. Baste the seams together on the right side ready for French seams and Blip it over the foundation to soe that it Is basted right Time may be saved by doing the seams by hand, us ing two or three running stitches and then a back stitch. Arranging Hooks and Eyes. The beet way to put the hooks and eyes on those that come on a tape ts to turn In the edges of the satin on the seam lines, baste the books and eyes in place, and stitch on the ma chine on the lower edge of the tape, stitching through the tape and the satin. Then take the basting out and after the chiffon Is In place turn the edges of the chiffon at the opening down over the folded over edge of the satin, baste it in place, and after bast ing the tape down again on the up per edge, this time over the chiffon, brtn( the raw edge ol the satin up over the hooks and eyes and hem or overhand to position. The hooks and eyes are firmly sewed on In this way and the stitching is practically in visible. The bell shaped sleeve is cut from a two-piece pattern and shaped prin cipally at the outside seam. To get the shape across tbe bottom it must be folded together so that tbe front seam and tbe fold down the outside of the upper sleeve part make the two creases. This lets the outside seam ,come underneath. - In some of tbe lingerie blouses where lace is used a good deal, and oftentimes it is a heavy lace, - tbe blouse is cut to come tbe desired length below, the trimming carried down to the bottom, and the lower edges finished with a matching lace edge. The blouse edges are usually square and opened up to the waist line at the under arm seams. The slight fullness at the waist line is gathered or plaited and a narrow fancy belt of some kind worn. Concerning the Peplum. If a peplum is to be made it must measure about one and a half Inches more at the waist line than tbe actual waist measure. Being cut somewhat circular, It would ride up If it were Just the waist measure. After it is finished at the ends it should be pinned in place on the band, pinning it in the middle of the front, if the closing is in tbe back, and then at each end. Either distribute the sur plus amount over the hips by holding it easily there or put a gathering in and let the fullness come over the hips. If properly done this slight full ness will be practically Invisible. Many of tbe new blouses having the extension below the waist open In the front, and' this certainly is an Im provement over the opposite way ir the matter of convenience. It has al ways seemed possible, though, to make prettier blouses by having the opening in the back, and fortunately there are still a great many to be worn. Blouse Opens In Front. . One pretty little blouse whicn opened in the front was cut quite plalr and made for a middle front opening. At the top, however, the right side lapped by to form a sort, of oblong tab, and below this the fastening was exactly In the middle, buttoning all tbe way. Coming from underneath the tab was a plaited lace frill. This was graduated In width, being three inches wide at tbe top and nar rowing down to one and one-half Inches at a point three inches below the bottom of tbe tab. This blouse had long sleeves 'gathered into a deep cuff, and a plain, perfept fitting stand ing collar finished the neck. Tbe home dress Illustrated is car ried out in eau-de-nll cashmere and has a pariel taken down back and front of skirt with the corner turned back in a revers that is lightly braid ed or embroidered. The Magyar bodice has the lower part Joined to the upper under a piece of braided material; this also edges the yoke and trims the over-sleeves. Spotted net Is used for the vest, which has the slight fulness eased to the collar. Materials required: 6 yards cash mere 48 Inches wide, 1 dozen yards Russia braid, yard spotted net. A Winner. "Boy, take these flowers to Mist Bertie Bohoo, room 12," "My, sir, you're the fourth gentle man wot's sent her flowers today." "What's that? What the deuce? Who sent the others?" "Oh, they didn't send any names. They all said, 'She'll know where they come from."' "Well, here, take my card, and tell her these are from the same one who sent the other three boxes." Tit-Bits. GOOD MANAGEMENT OF EWES IS OF GREATEST IMPORTANCE Exposure to Cold and Lack of Milk Causes Estimated Loss of 35 to 40) Per Cent of Lamb Shelter Must be Provided on High. Well Drained Land Feeding Hastens Growth. ' ... .. yi 'A J An Excellent (By J. M. BELL.) The chief losses to the flock during the lambing season are from cold and exposure and from lack of milk. The first cause can be remedied by proper shelter and the latter by adequate and nutritious food for the ewes at this critical season. It may safely be estimated that from 35 to 40 per cent, of the loss of lambs occurs from the above causes. To remedy them to a great extent Is In the reach of the sheepman. Regarding the question of proper shelter, the farmer must have his built on high, well-drained land; must have it well protected on the north east and west, and must be particular to give his flock sufficient room for a damp, over-crowded shelter is al most, or Just as bad, as none at all, and the losses of lambs will be nearly as heavy as where the flock are not housed, but left to shift for them selves. Where sheep are crowded In this way the ewes will drop their lambs outside of the shelter, and when this occurs in cold weather the little fel lows die of cold and exposure before they are strong enough to suck. Too many have the idea that the wool of the sheep provides all the protection needed. In reality, sheep are about the most tender of the vari ous kinds of stock, and were it not for the liberal protection provided by Nature more protection would be nec essary than for any other stock; hence the ewes should have comfortable quarters warm, but not too close and liberally supplied with clean, dry bedding to prevent dampness and to Insure cleanliness. Confine the sheep every night, es pecially if the weather Is disagreeable, and when the lambs begin to arrive keep the ewes that have dropped lambs separate from the flock. Build a dog-proof ience around the sheep yard, and under the shed parti tion off a place for the young lambs to go in. Have a trough for them and by the time they are two weeks old they will eat cracked corn and oats. This feeding will hasten rapid growth and at the same time will make them more Independent of their dams. Good feeding troughs should also be provided for the ewes. This brings us to the all-Important subject of what sort of a ration the ewes should have Just before and after lambing time; in fact, until spring grass comes. ' . Just here let us take the case of a euu ewes was very neavy aunng iaBi winter and spring. The loss of ewes was 25 per cent; that of lambs 37 per cent. Before lambing the flock was fed cut fodder and timothy hay; after lambing their ration was bran and cut fodder, no succulent food, or food that contained enough protein to pro duce the amount of milk necessary for the lamb after it was born. The man said: "If I had had 600 bushels of turnips I should have saved my sheep and lambs also." It is a great mistake to feed sheep merely timothy hay or corn fodder before and after lambing time. Many of the heaviest losses can be prevented If care is given to the ration, as It Is an exceptional case where a ewe has not sufficient milk to at least keep her lamb alive If she has been prop erly fed a month before lambing. The feed need not be expensive, nor necessarily succulent although that Is a great advantage; but It should be rich in protein, palatable, digestible and given in liberal amounts Breeding Ewe. and at regular Intervals, twice a day! Clover, cow peas or soy bean hay, corn silage, turnips, sugar beets, and some well cured (not moldy) corn fodder may constitute the greater por tion of the bulky ration, together with a grain . ration of corn, oats, bran, and a small percentage of linseed oil meal or cotton seed meal. It Is best to mix these grains to gether, but if any are to be fed alone let It be oats. Corn alone will prove unsatisfac tory, as It has a tendency to weaken the lambs and lessen the flow of milk. Be sure to have sufficient feeding room, as the danger from crowding and pushing when ewes are heavy with Iamb is very great and likely to cause some cases of abortion. In conclusion It may be said that every dead lamb or ewe means a Iobs of about five dollars to the owner, and It behooves him to give the best at tention to his flock during the lamb ing season. DAIRY PLANS OF DANISH FARMER Great Aim Is to Keep Largest . Number of Efficient Cows Possible on a Given Area. The aim of the Danish farmer is tt keep the largest number of efficient cows possible on a given area, a cow to 2'6 acres or less. Enough young stock is raised to ke.ep tbe herd sup plied with cows. From tbrelr feeding of oil cake and meal and the stall feeding of green crops, an Immense amount of manure of fine quality Is made, and with their careful methods of husbanding the sol ids In a covered manure pit and the liquids in a cistern, and applying In small quantities at frequent Intervals during the rotation, the producing pow er of their land Is Increasing from year to year. The price of cows is from $80 to $90. Only the best heifers are raised and with the record of tbe dam and the quality of the sire known, their selection Is comparatively simple. The soiling crops used are rye, oats and peas, oats and vetch and clover and grass. These are hauled to the barn and fed green, or pastured off by tethering the cows along the edge. In the cool European countries the soiling season of the crop Is much longer. The cows are seldom turned to pasture in Denmark, but tethered by means of a halter on the head and a rope or chain twelve to twenty feet long, which is attached to a ten-inch pin driven into tbe ground. Water is hauled twice a day to the tethered cows. Many small dairymen take the cows to the stable to be milked three times a day. Tbe cows are moved five times a day from three to six feet depending upon the amount of feed. Thus the crops are grazed oft even when two or three feet high without waste from tramping. This is the Dane's chief point of economy In the summer feed. Practically no grain Is fed while the cows are on grass. A few dairymen feed a little oil cake to their beat milkers. They are stabled all winter, fed all tbe straw they will eat and on the av erage of four pounds of hay, 40 to 100 pounds of roots and about six pounds of grain per day, consisting of oil cake, bran, bsrley and oats Hair Falling? You certainly cannot lose your hair and keep it, too. Which shall it be? Lose? Then do nothing. Keep? Then use Ayer's Hair Vigor. That is about all there is to it Ayer's Hair Vigor is also a splendid hair-dressing and hair-tonic It keeps the hair soft and smooth and greatly promotes its growth. It does not color the hair. Consult your doctor freely.' Doctors are .studying these hair questions much more than in former days. Mule bv the 1. O. AVER CO., Lowell, Mass. THE SALVE OF LIFE. Ahroluteljr Gunrnnteed to cure Itolli, earbnnolea, felons, nlwefffl, blood poiron, hum, foruiwu. sj-rains. rutfl. burlier (tell. Ih.6 fting und poifon o.ia. Nothing e!e like It, Hy mail, powtunid. ter Pnul Ave lino. 61'24 J.l Ht., Ponlnnd. Or. Al nt Lipuinn. W olfe A Company Bud Olda, Wortman 4 King. 1 T L . Second-Hand Mnchln. Machinery -- bollera, sawmills, etc. Th J. E. Martin Co.. 76 lat Bt Portland. Send for Stock List and prices. ft! 'Portland. Oreron a- maiden and vmr ocnool lor Otrli I if a. charge of Siitera of St. John Baptlat (Epiaoopalil ooiiaglate, Ac4tmle and Elanantary D.partmenta, Uaiie, Art, Elocution, OrmaaalaiB. For catalog addreN THE SISTEK SUI'ERIOR Of flee 30. St. Helena Hall n. ionic. Alterative ana Kesoivent. rue best remedy for Kidneys, Liver and Bowels. Eradicates Pimples, Eruptions and Disorders of the Skin. Purifies the Blood and gives Tone, Streng th and Vigor to the entire system. bum uojectea to maer. A millionaire rancher, of Pomona,' Cal., was painfully injured, recently, while attempting to ride a large red Durham bull. He bad made a wager with another rancher that he could remain on the bull's back for two min utes, faith in his ability to win the wager being based upon his experi ences In broncho riding. He lost the bet by Just 117 seconds, for three sec onds after he mounted the animal's back, he was seated In the center of the corral nursing a badly wrenched hip and shoulder. Antomoblln Eye Insurance needed after Exposure to Sun, Winds and Dust. Murine Bye Bemedy freely applied Affords Reliable Relief. Ho Smarting Just Ey Comfort Try Marine. Foundation Must Be Good. We can never breed a great peopli from squalid or filthy homes. Ex change. WIFE'S HEALTH RESTORED Husband Declared Lydia E. Pinkham's Vegetable Compound Would Re store Her Health, And It Did. Ashland, Ky. "Four years ago I seemed to have everything the matter with me. I had fe male and kidney trou ble and was so bad off I could hardly rest day or night I doc tored with all the best doctors in town and took many kinds of medicine but noth ing did any good un til I tried your won derful remedy, Lydia E. Pinklinm'a V. table Compound. My husband said it would restore my health and it has." Mrs. May Wyatt, Ashland, Ky. There are probably hundreds of thou sands of women in the United States who have been benefitted hvthia fomnn old remedy, which was produced from luum una nems over tnirty years ago by a woman to relieve woman's sufferlnov Read WhatAnothcr Woman says: Lamden, N. J.-'I had female trou ble and a BCrioua diRnlnrnmont an4 ... 1 .....v uiiu naa tired and discouraged and unable to do my wurK. my aoctora told me I never could be cured without an operation, but thanks to Lvdia E.Pinlchnm'a rarrat Compound I am cured of that affliction Bna nave recommended It to more than one of mv friends with tho k. ,.,u- t Mrs. Ella Johnston, 324 Vine St v 5. Tu JT.a V 8Pec,al adT,c write to Lydia E. Plnkham Medicine Co. (confl. dential) Lynn, Mass. Your letter will be opened, read and answered by a tronun and held, la ,trlct confidence. -Portland. Oreron . i "J i
