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About The Eugene City guard. (Eugene City, Or.) 1870-1899 | View Entire Issue (Oct. 27, 1888)
MAOHiNt T.'-tOllMptii. Antonlr-'iMi InvrtttlmiH lli'ci-iltv Maid tiy Hti (Oil rwiti,M-r Alan. Mr. I). II. Crtdg, formerly manager of tin1 Associated Press, has deVoled nineteen years i" the development of mabblm telegraphy, mid olalms in bo able to telegraph two thotiMuid words per mill ite from each end of a wire t .!.'. four thousand word in sixty second-. The in usages or reports are legibly it nd uniform recorded in orduwy telegraph characters, which can be read by clerks familiar with nam at the rate of nbout one hundred words per minute. Mes-ngcs. Iii be sent over tho Morse linen. must iirsi he written or printed; but ii meet age to be telegraphed by the new system must first be perfor ated) for which Mr. Craig bus a beautiful little machine, Hxio inches, frith two bank of keys, cafled n i 'eoniji Hrr," which ilftn a ehild eiin i operate reliably and quite expertly ! after an hour's prautloei and after a reasonable amount of practice fifteen i lb thirty wordi per minute can be per-1 f orated, Riniultaaoottsly with the per forations'the machine printa, In plain Soman, every word f the m imago. ' whirl, Is ri ' lined, while the perforated Mtne 1h nest to the telegraph office the M:i;i" a- a mo v. age In rant in j manuscript to be telegraphed over the , Morse line, will) tills difiVrellOo (lie machine message will lie 1 ransmittcd to destination at the rate oi one thou Hand or t wothouaand words per minute, and be eiliiv and accurately recorded In telegraph characters, and the Morse mes-i, will lie telegraphed by the hand-key system at the rale of fifteen to twenty-five words per minute and be recorded liy "sound " rending in ordi nary manuscript It 1h claimed that the machine record I- three times more iu eiiraie than "sound" recording. With the regular office perforata? experts do, reliably, fifty words per minute, or ,'i.lKKl pur hour; and it is olaimed by Mr, Craig that the actual ooit of tramimittlng 1,000 wordi 1,000 miles i- not over i cents! Tbi ro-t of itiper to perforate I.IKK1 word- la I cent, and cents for record ing paper. Experts, young men or young ladiet, do perforating for 10 cent- pei' l.iiiio words, and the same for copying on tlie type-writer- total. '.'.' cents for completing 1,000 words.' On II,.- baeil it WOUld cost for labor and paper less than to to telegraph and complete forty-eight columns of lliis I iwspapor from Now York to Chicago, .Mi Craig has also devised a new telegraph wire, made of pure copper wlth'tt slight mlxturi of silica, which i.- siii'i to increase the tensile strength to twice 'he strength of steel of citml - te, the exact tensile strength being reported as 181,000 pounds to the square hdi. No. I "augo wlif w-ighs over (Xi pound- per mile, a id bus ii'mut on? ohm of electrueil resls anee per mile. With - eh a w.re. '"(tending from Mew York to San rrannlicOj tlieelcc trleal resistance would be about 8,000 ohm-, wltlie a nuijorli v of the tele ei'ai ill M ires between New York and Washington show an electrical resist Mice nf more than I ouius thus tlie ii.'W siliconized copper wire will bring San Francisco nearer to New York, electrically, than New York is to tVa-hingtnn. A', r, Hun. VACATIONS A NtCtSSI fY. Km! kbaolntaly KwMntlei to arete u i tal ani rh)'i 'nt Break'Dewa, Although "goii,.' ,'iy for Hie sum mer i,as oag bean fashionable, and summer vacations linve become cu -topiary among nearly all classes of people, a great many persons yet re main who do not leave their homes or business from year's end to year's end. These itay-at-bomei are not alwayi such from inclination; usually they would prefer to Indulge in the annual OUtlng wiili their neighbors, but neees-i-ilv. or fancied necessity, which i- the same in effect, chains them to the daily round of duties. To all appear anoas they mffer neither iu health nor Strength by this lack of rest and icc- reaUon. and are apt to plume them-srive- upon their physical stamina, In the eour-e of time, however, the monotony of their lives) toll in loss of, spirits, a levaking down of nervous fore, mill rest, often prolonged and sometime-, useless, because too late, must be taken regardless of conveni ence Whether it is belter to wait until such a breakdown occurs or to ward it olT bv proper care of soul and body, are questions to which there nan t. but one answer, Ami it is the" mind rather t ha'i the body which. In most case . need the greater atten tion. People, however confining their occupations, are not apt to overwork i!i selves physically; summer vaca tions arc not so much needed to give rest to tired muscles as lo tired brains; change of scene or occupation is re quired to give a new turn to thoughts that have Is-eii ttm much in one groove Mere farmers' wivtH are found in in-line asylums than any other one class; hut the deadly monotony of their lives dis s more to drive them dement ed than ib' cooking, the milking, the rhi: ruing and other household labors, arduous though they be. Yarlety of Interest. is what the human being needs to keep him in wholesome DMBS tttl. moral and physical condition. Like the siesta, which the natives of southern countries take at noonday, midsummer -eems the litteig time for n rest from regular pursuits, if the month's .vacation is not possible, how 0ver, and even a week not to be thought of. the "day oft," or even tho half dsv. is not to I, ili.snis.nl una i-lucid be Instated uuou. Indeed, If j Mud often throughout the yoar, 'the day's outing is probably of e renter hygienic value than the longer 1 period The lli'st and last requisite to i lake the day profitable is to spend it us the taste inclines ul ways suppos ing that it doesn't Incline to break the , oummandipedti and that it leads to I something entirely outside the usual 1 ,.. ,1 II IJ f I I . ruuuae. no usn ng; n you use i.iai. Wo and tee a game of base-Ire I -Ibis 1 advice ma)' seem superfluous, but, itraogt as it may appear, men and women do exist who have never seen the National game la ail its glory, and need urging before they will go. io to the woodii fur from the maddening crowd, if your fancy Icadi, uud study ! the be uttiai of nate.re: if you are gre garious, call on your nogloclcd ncigh bor or visit the town ten miles away that ,V"'i have always heard of but have never seen. Don't visit your cousins in town or out; they don't want to see you in wurm weather. Stay at home and get acquainted with the baby, or if you happen to be 'ho babv's mother have tlie infant to its paternal ancestor and fate for the day If nothing better offers stay at homo and sleep. You might do worm. (Jive yoiir.vi.', in .'hurt, a change of occupa tion, something new to think of onoe week, thereby getting out of the rut, and so far as your enjoy meal and wel fare are concerned it trill not matter greatly whether or not you join in ihe jourly pilgrimage to tho seashore, the mountains or Maxlnkuokeo. Jftwae nftolit Journal. If! A WELSH CHURCH. A OeegMaatleo Wlm' .i. KarnratnNM ProVvd lo It,' Cunt tglou. When you are in Home, do as the Bottanj dO: which, being interpreted, means, when you are in Wales, go to the Welsh church. When Sunday came, .is the lung, peaceful day drew il r Its close, we went down Uu shadv road and over the bridge, in search of the parish church. There is also an Knglish church, much finer and more exclusive, we were told, llet we abided by our first choice. The build ing I'telf Ul modern, but the grounds look so old that It is probable It Occu pies fhe site of un older structure. A pavement of broad slate flagging runs around it. bordered w'l' shrubs and (lowers. Some very old graves were in the inclosiuv. There were several doors, and it was a questional which we were expected to enter. 'J wo chubby-faced beys came round th corner in great haste. "Cnoir boys. I said, and was Iain to usl; for guld an 08' but they vanished like two Hushes of Ughtll ng. At length, bv ones and by twos, the worshipers began to assemble, and we followed the crowd il i- a curious place, to Americanizes that low Welsh l hurch long, nar row, with stone wails, immense stone columns, brick paved lloor in the nave and clinlr, and tiled lloor in Ihechan eel. Imperishable it looked, even tiiouii ii is the produot of our cpbem ecu I t,o-dity as if il might outlast the py ram Ids; and it is as severely plain as any Baffataff. The oongregation made up a- il was of the common peo ple, the working classes, inlere-ted us greatly. There was hardly a person in the seats who would have been called, in common parlance, a lady or a gentleman. The clothes were rough and plain, but generally clean and comfortable. Many of I lie men were in l heir shirt-sleeves. Behind us sat an old woman in black, the oddest of apparitions, who stared at us as if wc belonged to another world. So small, so withered, so weather-beaten was she, iu a costume that belonged to the past ages. I uit we certainly felt as if she. did not belong to ours. A lurplloed Ohoir of men and boys alas thai 1 should sav if, but those surplices badly needed soap and water! discoursed ureal musle, singing to Hamburg and oilier familiar old tunes their wild Welsh h ruins. The air of the plaOfl was re vo. out. The voices in tae re sponse mere low and earnest. The yOUng men and maidens wore qui. t and attentive; their elders were devout. As for tho sermon, I understood but three words of it: "Apostle l'aul" and "(lulatia;" but it was, after all, as in teresting as any I ever listened to. Earnestness is contagious, and the pale, earnest so taker he'd our absorbed at- tention from first u last Hut it was eas to follow the service, which was that of the church of England and prayer is prayer, whether the tongue be Welsh . or Knglish. Julia ('. H, Voir, in AUtntifa - Chi Indian school at ( arlisle, I'a., ha-s the oldest pupil of any educational Institution in the United Stales, lie is more than sixty years of age. Crazy Head is his name, and be was once Chief of the Crow Nation. He was a IkiUI w arrior and an aide ruler. He is anxious to learn the ways of white men, and is now receiving instructions in biaekimlthlng. During the coming winter he will attend school. He is a man in vigorous health and has a SJOra refined race that Is often found in bis race, lie is docile and patient, and then is something almost pathetic alxiut his longing to learn the custom- of civilization before he dies. A mason employed a man as ten der to carry brick and mortar, who frequently asked for monev in advance. At the end of the week the mason said; "John, you have drawn fifty cents too much." "Don't mention it. sor. It's a Shmall thrille, and you're WilOMSS to it" A Maine deacon on his return from quarterly meeting oiirSuudtty not long i 'g". saw a string of trout lying on a "ridge. Ho sprang I rein his wagon, ft'lzcd tho trout and drove on, titlv punishing the Sunday angler for his .CKcUuoas UARE OF THE TEETH. He lo it, moti Tartar, HlroiiKlhan thr (iiiim and I'url'jr tho :i. . ilh. Nothifkg detracts so much from the upiMiirunce of a oerson as di-colovd and neglected teeth. Tho better loot:. iug ihe fneo the more ....oh,,!..,,.., Inn .if ..,.. lul, ,.r, 1 1... i . I. ,.M.. -,,ii ' it alTeets ,r, llv llw liliwier,! u.',.ll.h... j J 1-.' " "' ing of Ihe individual. bile it is true I that our good or bad tee'b are largely I Inherited it is also true that the good i may be destroyed and the bad pre I served and improved by the care or j lick of Care that we bestow upon them. I The tempera uro of the mouth is !I8 di grees, which will quickly decompose tiny particles of food remaining in the mouth. The effect of thla decomposi tion Is to be seen in decayed, discol ored teeth, sore gums and bad breath, which cause nye-h mortification and coii-.iderable snlTering. And the rem edy is so simple - the use. of the tooth brush en rising a id g ing to bed. For all oVdlnary eases the brushing of tho tec'lh with a moderately hard brush and a Utile (oap and water and the oc casional lM Of a little Sower of sul phur, to remove any tartar that may pave accumulated, will keep the teeth In excellent ordor. Some persona, however, object to the taste of soap (to which one soon liccomes accus tomed) and for them one of the follow ing tooth powdam is recommended: First Mix two drams of chloral, two drams of Peruvian bark and one. scruple of iris powder, Beoond White sugar, one-half dram; magnesia, one dram: cream of tartar, one dram; sulphate (if quinine, three grains: mane, two grains; cinnamon, six grains: curniino, five grains: mix carefully, adding four drops of the oil of rose. Third Sulphate of quini o, one grain; lake carmine, one grain; vola tile oil of mint, two drops: coral, pul verized, one ounce. Fourth - Sugar, one dram: cream ol tartar, pulverized, 0(10 Sample; carbon ate of lime, one dram; magnesia, two drains; essence of mint, one drop. N Fifth -Dissolve two ounces of boras iu three pints of boiling wator, add on" teaspoontul of spoils or campho . When cold l.oltle. Use a teaipOOflfol of this mixture with an equal quantity of tepid water. Sixth Charcoal and honey mixe together will whiten as well us well i purify the teeth. For parsons whose teeth have b 0 e black through neglect or olh causes we give tho following reuljx First -One ounce of water, ounces of honey one quarter of . ounce of puro muriiitio acid. l!p 1. toothbrush into tlie mixture and apr briskly. Tho effect is Inataotaoeou Wash out the mouth Immediately the acid will Injure tho teeth, i. should be used but seldom. Si oond -Dissolve one ounce of bor: i i one and a half pints of bollli water, am) when cold add one te spoonful of tincture of myrrh and i tablespoonful of spirits of camphi ply daily. When the gums are tender and ble easily and the breath disagreeable (Il effect of decayed teeth) one of the f lowing remedies is excellent. The, arc to be used three times a day: First Honey of roses, one-half te:: Spoonful; wator, one witicglassful. Second Tincture of myrrh, tint ounce: water, one ounce; compound tincture of cinchona, one ounce. Where the offensive breath results from a foul stomach, take three grain- 01 chloride of lime in a wineglassful ol water twice daily, or take charcoal freely. This is, perhaps, most easily Swallowed in the form of burnt toast. If tho gums are unhealthy brush with tepid water and a soft brush; than apply with another brush a mix ture composed of carbolic acid, twenty drops; spirits ot wine, two drams; dis tilled water, six ounces. To harden and strengthen the gums and to cure worms in them use one ol the following washes: First Jamaica spirits, half pint; powdered alum, half teaspoonful; saltpetre, half teaspoonful; powdered mvrrh, one ounce. Second Salts of tartar, half ounce; honey) four ounces; alcohol, two ounces; water, ten ounces. Third Dissolve one ounce of mvrrh as much as possible in pint of port wine and the same Quantity of oil ol almonds, wash the mouth with the tluid everv morning. ,V. J'. Il'yn'rf. MEXICAN MANNERS. Wh.'il an Anirriran Travrlrr Saw In Ilia loi.iil oT tin' Monti snmrt. It is said of the Mexicans, as of the Russians, that in repose a deepsadnes is expressed ill their eyes. The Mexi cans are good character-readers, and especially note the bearing of stran gers. They are very polito and hos pitable, and very proud. The higher classes of society in Mexico are almost as exclusive as the court circles ot Buropa A middle class Is growing up in Mexico. Mexican salutations are exceeding! cordial. "Men fall into aeoh other's arms and remain thus for several minutes, patting eaeh other on the shoulder and indulging in all sorts of endearing wjiithcts." Another salutation, even between friends of opposite Sox. is thus de scribed: " In the quickest, most ipirited manner, the arms of both parties are outstretched, they rush to gether for a second, their breasts barely touch, and while the observer Is watching for a kiss to follow thi ardent salute they separate: and the abra.o is finished. The extreme 'rankr.css accompanying jt compels one to admire the custom, for it menr no more than handshaking mun th j Americans." If friends meet twenty I times a day thoy must pause to shake I hands. At the capita! or.o day there was ; seen two splendid carriages, each oo- ! c"Pl"d by one niun. 7 be carri.-gcfi . halted, both men alighted. removed bats, shook hands, embraced, talked 1 lor h lew iiiolueiils, again eiiiur.ieeu, idlliok hands. la.Wed. look OlT llllts. I und each entered bis carriage, and went his way." The formal I salutation between women is n tap of the right hand on i the loft shoulder, and then a generous shake of the hund. Women who art I intimate friends not only tap the I shoulder, but lay their cheeks softly tog it her forun instant. A lady traveler I commends this sort of feminine saluta tion, and evidently prefers It greatly 1 to the American form of greeting on tho lips. Tho Mexican makes really r.s many ! gestures as a Frenchman, ami has quite an extensive social sign lan guage. Their blowing of kisses from the lingers is a graceful d "inonstintion. A certain position of the thumb and forefinger signilies "stop n moment.' One arm held half upright with the elbow held in the other hand, means "he is too stingy to pay his debts;" one hand rubbed across the forearm, he plays on tho credulity of bis friends;" the palm hold outward, with thumb and forefinger forming a circle, "she is very rich;" the fingers of one band closed, except tho thumb and little finger, "he's a sharper." Edu cated Mexican men are great skeptics in religious mutters except when they uro very sick. The people are I temperate. loung girls are culled I "pullets;" marriageable men, "young or old roosters," and the street arabs whoogle ladies are knows as "lizards.'' Americans who have married Mexican women find it necessary to live in Mexico, for their wives arc very un happy elsewhere. Mexican children are never struck. Corporal pun sb ment in schools Is prohibited by law. Correct inn takes the form of persua sion and appeal. The result is thai in all c'uhses a gentle courtesy and con sideration for Others prevail. Hoodlum children aro unknown in Mexico. A hoodlum child is one who has been cuffed and abused until he naturally Tiluit s, according to the ex amples set him) begins to kick and pound others who nTC weaker than himself. The step from this to other deeds of violence is short. One can not tell half of the grapes and courtesies of the Mexican children. "In 'he alnmedu, with kindly defer ence they will always yield to elderly and Infirm persons their own cozy and shady seats. On entering a BS la, where there n'c few or many guest-, these exquisitely polite little gentlemen will go all around, shaking bands with every one present. They never break into the conversation, but when ad dressed will modestly join it; then, wishing to retire, will sny. 'with your kind permission,' and, again shaking hands, move gracefully from the com pany. 0 iris aro no less imbued with the same spirit of courtesy. A Mexi can boy never thinks himself too near manhood to pay the compliment to his i (pother of kissing her hand every time ho comes into her presence." Mexico Cur. Vinci minti Commereiitl flttzctlc. CYNIC ND PHILOSOPHER. Tha DlRtoraniM Beta IheCaUow Vmith i tin u hi of Bxptrisnoe, The cynic of twenty or twenty-five believes be kiiws the world; that ho has sounded the depths of its decep tion: that life is a delusion, hope a snare, and love a not. These young gentlemen recover usually before reaching the age of thirty: an occa sional unfortunate love affair takes tho conceit out of them, and they liecome quieter and, in time, agreeable com panions and cheerful friends. For youth will not long live without hope. To the young a disappointment, real or supposed, clouds all the sky. and there is no sense of something beyond that dark day. Hat tho skies do not fall : on the morrow "the sun goes up the sky like any other day;" hope springs' in the heart, and the current of life has a deeper movement and a broader flow. "Whatever enlarges hope will exalt i courage," says Dr. Johnson, in the "Idler," and as a man's courage makes i the ground .'eel firm beneath him bo- ! cause he plants himself firmly, he passes pleasantly beyond the age of cynicism unto the age of expectation I and content. "If it bo asked." says Dr. Johnson, "what is the improper j expectation which it is dangerous to I indulge, experience will quickly an swer that it is such expectation as is d elated not bv reason, but bv do- sire; expectation raised not by the com- j mon occurrences ot life, but ly too wants of tho expectant; an expecta tion that requires the common scii-o of things to hi1 changed and the gener al rule of action to be broken." Thus speaks the philosopher, who has cx haustod tho springs of life, is seeking some stay for his old age. Wise indeed, but wise beyond tho apprehension of man iu whom the fires of life are still full and strong, and falling as far short of human nature's daily needs as doo the cynicism of tho callow youth. For experience teaches man to bear disap pointment; it does not teach him that life is free from it, however rational our expectation. Louisville Grafter Journal. Tho UartlfH and Forest says: Whenever it is intelligently pracl thinning fruit trees almost always pay - nnd frequently brings largo returns. If half the crops of apples, pears oi lHaehos were removed tbose remain ing would aggregate v much in bull as If they were allowed to remaiu. - a.Vi-.WICAN FASHIONS. Ii.i'.s Fslirim ami G'oatnmaa Import sit for An. mini Mini Winter. The first Importations of nuturni. woolens promise a season of plain goods In new shades and new weaving. S61U1 OSlon largely predominate, und are given novel effects by being wovou in stripes in most Varied ways, as, for Instance, there aro roppod StrtpW al ternating with diagonal stripes, corded stripes with satln-finlshcd stripes, zigzag chuddah stripes with cash mere twilled stripes or nrmurc nnd bird's-eye woven stripes with those of lengthwise reps or cords; and these stripes are further varied in widths, ranging from hair linos and half-inch modest stripes to those more bold and effective, from one to three inches wide, while clusters of one kind of stripe aro massed to form wide stripe- that alternate with solid stripes of a third kind of weaving. Many hlgh-flnUbed goods aro shown In plain fabrics with the silken glossy surfaces produced by closely woven twills; these will be found becoming to women of dark complexion, who delight in luster, and have given up dull rough stuffs, even though of the finest qualities. Cashmeres L are given anllken finish li!;o that ot I Henrietta cloths, yet havo no silk in then, and thoy aro also woven in stripes, and are strewn with large dots that are made to look even more silkv than the groundwork. Plain Henrietta cloths are imported entirely of wool, and are also mixed with silk in such large proportion that the dealers call them Ratteen Henriettas. It is the ex perience of dress-makers that these mixed Henrietta cloths, even of tho finest wool and silk, will slip and fray in the seams, and do not wear near as well as the pure wool oashmoros, which now nlso rival them in luster. Among diagonal stuffs drnp d'Alma is revived, with its widely woven twill, and there is a great deal of rough carael's-hair and of Knglish serge in plain grounds and in stripes. The soft tlno chuddah cloths for both house nnd street dresses are made iu Franco, but closely imitate in weaving tho genuino India stuffs. For winter costumes ladies' cloth is ngain imported in tho light weights introduced last year, and in all the now dull colors. Bordered costumes are largely im ported for autumn and winter, both of plain and stripod woolens. Cashmere figured borders are on the richest goods, and are of great width, in palm leaves and other India designs in very gay colors, and also in the gray and quiet shades familiar In tho borders ot Paisley shawls. Many striped borders are v.lso along one selvage of plain wooler.s, and somo of these borders have s'lk woven in the stripes. Other borders are ombre or shaded, and still I others nre entirely of rapped silk. A wide selvage like that of nuns' veiling is the simple border of many rough surfaced wool goods, while a novelty is u border ol large plaids on plain solid covered materials. Hair-striped fab rics have very wide phi in borders along one selvage, and there are plain cloths with Striped borders in dull cashmere colora. Tinsel borders of gay metallic stripos are new on dull-colored wool ens, hteel und silver borders und tripos are especially handsome. Colored stripes and plaids are shown both separate and together; for instance, there ure tine silk and wool goods with plaided stripes of great width alterna ting with plain Stripes, und there are gay tartan plaid stripes on grounds of most quiet colors. Rough woolens in very large plaids nre considered stylish in dark dull groons, and in combina- ! tions of green with grav, or green with brown, blue with brown, and blue with purplish red shades. Indeed, all dull-colored plaids are nbout to bo ra vi v ed llu rh r Jluzar. BUILDING SOCIETIES. The Most iti-iiiihic Sarin ra institution! for Sa.la.rled Man, It Id not many years since building as sociations were looked upon withstfong distrust by workmen. They could not understand the methods upon which tho associations wero based, and be cause they could not or rather would not, they refused to tako advantage of i tne Opportunities thoy offered. All I this is being changed. The first build I ing association in this country was organized In Now York, but before , It was in successful operation ten had been organized in New York, but be fore it was in successful operation ton 1 had been orgnnized in Philadelphia, and tLe members wero reaping the benefits by building homes. A paper I published in tho interest of building I associations gives th following statis i ties: In New York there are g.fKKI associations: in Philadelphia. ' 7(HI: 15oslon Chicago, 800; St. Louis, 7i(. In St. l.ouis, in tho past live years, It is ostimatod that 8,600 homes bars been built by members of building as sociations. That these associations have done a grenW work in inciting salaried mon to build their own homes there can be no doubt Manufacturers ought to cue m rage their men to build home-. It is safe to say that any work man who owns bis own home will be more attentive to his work and more faithful to his employer. In furnish ing an euip love an opportunity and a motive to save, the employer would foster n feeling of mutual interest be tween him and his men that would work to his Interest. This has been done successfully in Philadelphia, and there is no reason why it can not b done just as successfully anywhere else. Molts and Ha tluart. A New Jersey couple were rocentlj mnrrid after a courtship of twenty four years. Twenty-four yenrs of no solute bliss Is rrore than most mortal! wtu osuecU -AVw IIhuh gui. REVIEW OF FASHIONS. I.ul Snrlct) Laailara Will Wear lliirln. lll Cotiillijr Mrann. Faille Francaise is Htill win,,.,.. . icecssful rival, cither in Ul i mac.. .. dors, and will be the fashionable inibinatlon material with Iii aindai sir Of the same color, trimmed with ne passementerie having line metallic thread! interwoven, gilt, silver, uteol r copper, us will best blend with th dor of tho dress. .Subdued shades of vine-color, copper tints. Gobelin blot n dark shades, and some very rich rreehs aro among the new colors, lack faille trimmed with extremely Inc-OUt jet passementerie will consti t ute some of tho most elegant costumes or autumn. Armure silks in fim) urd's-oye pattern are among the iovelties, and soft, twilled peau rfe nit comes in all tho now colors. Elegant irooadea aro in tapestry designs and olors, with velvet and sal in figures on ii armure ground. Jet. notwithstanding its many for midable rivals, will remain the favor te garniture for all fabrics for which :t can appropriately be used; but it mist bo of very, very line cut beads, nd some of the newest designs are in "ory narrow borders; quality, rather bun a showy design, being the desid eratum. Crocheted passementeries uid those with crocheted effects will ')e popular i" ll colors; and tho new designs In galloons made of line cords is subdued Persian colors with metal llo threads interwoven, aro beautiful inough to please the most refined taste. Heel is a favorite for this nurnn.. Oriental on broideries aro shown ir aow and exceedingly lovely colors ana aesigna The popularity of the Directoirs .itytes has materially revived large buttons for ornamental purposes, and many of them are really works of art At least a dozen buttons are usually required for a Direotoire basque, three for ouch side of tho front, and six for the back or lapels for tho pockets; and when one has to pay from ten dollars a dozen, upwards, for the buttons alone, tho cost of the dress is consid erably increased. Some of these but ons are of incised metal, others are enameled, and the noro modest are crocheted, with out beads, garnet, em erald, or black, sparkling like jewels on the surface. In millinery for early autumn, close Bttlng bonnets nnd various turban shapes - which are a sort of comprom ise between a bonnet nnd a hat will oc. very popular; in the new lints. crowns are only moderately high, and some are very low; and all tastes and 'ypes of beauty can be suited in the widths and arrangements of the brims. Cashmere and me alllo effects are noticeable in fancy millinery goods, ind there are especially handsome buckle?, pins nnd aigrettes of different metals variously ornamented. Ribbons retain their deserved popu larity, especially the wider kinds, and tripes are by no means abandoned, combinations of color and weaving moire, satin and gros-grain being frequently seen in tho same place. Two-toned ribbons will also bo used. lienoresVt Monthly, Don't Sell the F&rm. Tliero is a vast amount of discontent and restlessness wilji American farm ers. They see and hear of others making Immense fortunes in a ten months or years by some fortunate i peculation, or by some favorable oc cupation for which probably the occu pan) is just sii led by natural tact and elocution And the farmer who is barely making a living thinks he can do as woll if ho only sells out and gets into somo other business. Hut this ame class are blind and deaf to the llatory of thousands, who in restloss oving have piecded them. Thoy a ve sold out a good farm, and spent the whole of it in finding a poorer country, or in bunging around lo find line business better than farming. There are plenty of rich men more than there ought to be but not one ;n filly of tbose who enter commercial mi-iuess or the learned professions that eventually become rich. A larger proportion of real farmers become lob than that nf any other indust.V'r rofession. Hold on to the farm, and i ondiiot it wisely and energetically jnd let roving and trading alona ',( Homestead. Coffee as a Disinfectant. Coffee is a handy and harmless dis Dfeotaati Experiments have been made in I'aris t6 prove this. A quan tity of meat was hung up in a closed (M)in until decomposed, and then a dialing dish was introduced and 500 ,'rammesof coffee thrown on the firo in a few minutes the room was com- :et"iy disinfected. In anothor room luiphuretted hydrogen and ammonia Vers developed, and ninety grammes if coffee destroyed the smell in about half a minute. It is also stated that coffee destroys the smeil of musk. '.stierum and-assnfeetida. As a proof that the noxious smells are really dc- tom posed by the fumes of coffee and not merely overpowered by them, it is -tati-J that the first vapors of the cof fee wero not smelled at all. and are chemically absorbed, while the other -mells gradually diminish as the fumi gation continues. The beet way to effect this fumigation is to pound the I'ofTeo in a mortar, and then strew it on a hot iron plate, which, however, ii ust not be red hot SI. I.'uis OloU ,'i inorrof. Evorybody will be glad to know now to make the blacking that hard ware dealers put on stoves. It is simply black varnish dissolved in tur-i-ntine and mixed with any ordinary good stove polish.