Image provided by: University of Oregon Libraries; Eugene, OR
About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Jan. 15, 1922)
VOL. XLI PORTLAND, OREGON, SUNDAY MORXIXG, JANUARY 15, 1923 Women, Churches, Books, Schools and Features no. a BROWN AND RED RICH COLORS OF AUTUMN FASHION'S PET HUES Fancies of Fashion for These Two Colors Are Sudden and Frenzied, While Other Shades, Blue, Green, Yellow, Mauve and Taupe, Are Used All of the Time. .U It V; - ; . ' , : f 1 ' ' ' 7--vf A. ,,,yyv :N' :'- ;;. 1, V sa4 - 1 ' f " ",,- .''tv"- - - 1 fi';: , BROWN and red the rich colors of autumn are fashion's pet hues this midwinter season. Either brown or red is tremendously mart; but, curiously enough, the smart ehades are seldom used to gether. One may wear all brown or red discreetly mingled with black to tone It down. Brown and red are colors that fash Ion has sudden and frenzied fancies for. Other shades blue, green,- yel-' low, mauve, taupe she uses all the time, sometimes putting, one a. little ahead of another but relying. upon all as Indispensable etandbys. But when fashion takes a notion to brown ehe plunges, as It were, on brown. She wants brown In masses and quanti ties and, as for red well, this year fashion is "seeing red" you might al most say. Between brown' and red, winter styles are a perfect panoply of autumn glow. When you wear brown you must wear all brown, and the combined brown fabrics frock and hat and stockings and handbag must make a symphony of tones. Anything off tonc is as excruciating as anything off-tune in a symphony of music. And harmonious browns are expensive. The brown shades are beautiful , in rich materials, but hideously un pleasing in cheap ones. It is always a problematical experiment, too, to have fabrics dyed brown. Your frock may come out a veritable dream of soft tones, and again it may turn out a horrid mud shade or a rusty mink color, or a lurid pumpkin tone. Even the dyer has to take a chance and he and you can thank your lucky stars when everybody is pleased. Nevertheless dyers are very busy just now turning white and flesh pink and faded gray evening frocks into brown afternoon costumes, and in every dyeing establishment win dow Is a stunning brown blouse that has come out a success. The brown lace afternoon frocks are wonderfully attractive, and be cause they are so smart you pay a little more for them than for frocks of the same type in blue (which is not' especially smart this winter) or in gray (which is now a bit passe). A distinguished brown bridge frock Is of velvet, beautifully draped and all soft lines: the skirt quite loni? and the sleeves big and flowing. These large sleeves and set-in panels at either side of the draped skirt are of the brown velvet printed in an all over autumn-leaf pattern soft and blurred, and rich in shades of red, nasturtium, rust and masses of color and are easier to manage than elabo rate embroideries in which a multi tude of painstaking stitches achieve a similar effect of color and rich ness. Boxed velvet frocks were popular as Christmas gifts this year. Several yards of velvet in each box, with dot ted lines on the material showing where to cut out the sections for blouse, sleeve, sash and skirt dra pery, and gorgeous color printings so placed that the pattern will come at the right spot on the costume. With each boxed embryo gown comes a picture of that costume as it will look when put together. Plaiij brown velvet dresses, with a touch of gold lace on sleeve, skirt panel and sash, are very smart and rich looking for afternoon affairs. More elaborate and formal are frocks of brown lace and georgette over slips of brown satin these for indoor affairs, or for informal evening oc casions. A simple but stunning afternoon bridge frock is of brown satin with self-tone embroidery in silk floss across the .bodice and skirt, just above and below the girdle. With this frock goes a brown velvet hat with brown feathers, and there is a wonderful handbag of gold and brown brocade mounted on an amber frame. Brown is loaded on lavishly in Fashion's scheme of winter costume. but red she uses with more restruint. Were red used the way brown is this season one fears to think what the result would be. Very likely sani tariums for a lot of people; for red is a nerve-stimulating color and Is excitable in effect to extremely high strung persons or so 'tis said by color experts. At any rate. Fashion uses her red this year with nice control; in cheer ful little red hats that make black costumes blithe; in soft-toned masses of embroidery on black; in gay pip ings and buttons on dark blue tailored frocks, in gorgeous linings of evening raps; in feather fans and in merry scarlet heels on black dance slippers. Here and there you meet a Burgundy or garnet velvet frock; or a1 flame crepe evening gown; or a cardinal duvetyn coat trimmed with black fox. But most of the red is in gorgeous splashes and daring dashes on otherwise somber raiment. For instance, a little one-piece trotter frock of dark blue serge is embroidered on the skirt with sprawling red floss flowers and scrolls, and piped at sleeve edge and down the bodice fronts with red duvetyn. A little vestee ot red duve tyn shows between the slashed fronts, and the narrow belt has a red piping and red baccalite buckles. A black tarn of hatter's plush, ac companying this frock has a red un curled ostrich feather drooping at one side. Red or brown. And you are cor rectly in line with tho season's color scheme which has borrowed from the hues of autumn. Brown is used in .solid hunks; red in Fiurklini? dashes. This midwinter turn (9S17 of black panne velvet has a red ostrich feather posed at one side to match tho red duvetyne vestee and pipings in her frock of black broadcloth. And broadcloth in another midwinter fancy lots of it is going to be used In tho coming season. Women simply must have feathory aigrettes and, since real ones, rather cruelly obtained from real birds, am under the ban with humane persons, fashion has set to work and achieved perfectly satisfactory imitation ai grettes which givo grace and dusb. enough to please anybody. Masses of these aigrettes trim this (9963) panne velvet hat, and the brim is rolled back In front under a cunning little feather ornament which suggests a saucy cockade BEING ABLE TO PLAY MUSICAL INSTRUMENT DECLARED LACKING IN MOST WOMEN Ability at Piano Is Regarded as Adding Charm to Any Young Woman; Something Feminine About Music Increases Its Appeal. BT ANTOINETTE DONNELLY. NEW Y O R K. (Special corre spondence.) At a dinner party recently, following the usual lull after a big dinner and coffee, the hostess, whose apartment boasted a fine grand piano, began to solicit talent among those present. There were ten wom-n guests, most of them quite young, but each and every one of them pleaded inability to produce a musical note either by song or piano. "Isn't it strange?" said one fair guest. "Here we are ten what might be called reasonably well educated Homen. We can talk about books and talk about plays and about food and the latest dance step, and still we seem, as a body, to have neglected something that ought to be more vital in a way music. It plays an important enough part in our lives, after all, so that more of us should respond to its charm, and be able to dispense some of the latter as well." Kemlnine Charm Increased. At which the host projected. "Well, I don't know what Is the matter with you girls, anyway, especially you un married ones. Take Marion there (nodding in the direction of his wife), she used to be able to play and sing. In fact, that's how I fell in love with her. But now she won't do a thing with her music, and I often long for the old days, when she would play some soft melody and chase away my cares and worries. "Blinkety-blank it all. I think it adds tremendously to a girl's beauty, don't you? And, as an element of charm it ought to be considered In a girl's education, not to be dropped once she gets herself tied up at the altar. A homely woman can make horielf the center of attraction it she can play or sing well. And a pretty one with a talent well, she is the bright star of the occasion. And I don't mean she has to have profes sional ability, either." Talent Sadly Neglected. By a curious coincidence this inci dent came to my ears directly after I had been going over some medical and health books, and I had just been struck with the Importance attached to music by several writers. And I remembered having remarked on vari ous occasions after parties how com paratively few girls are able to con tribute anything to such occasions in a musical way. However, I never thought of it so much as a beauty asset as a feature of education, which It were decidedly too bad to neglect. But the host's comment recalled to mind occasions where a girl had gone up many notches in the estimation of those present when she contributed in a musical way to the pleasure of the party. There is something feminine about it that carries its own appeal, isn't there? It lifts one above the com monplace, too, does it not? And the better one performs the farther one is removed from the commonplace. And, after all, there isi hardly a house in America of any pretentions what ever that does not harbor a piano, and studying music is no more diffi cult, except in a few rare cases where there is a total lack of ear, than any other study which contributes to a finer intellect. So much for the beauty side of it. Now for the health angle. " Dr. John B. Huber, who has written a fascinating book on retaining youth, says every one should have a hobby, and tha roost satisfying of these and the most comforting he claims to be music, the appreciation of good music, with some little skill on a musical .in strument. "Music is indeed a most salutary medicine," he says, "because its com ponent tones are regular vibrations, even auditory waves, precisely so many to each note; being thus unlike cacophonies, noises that are made up of Irregular, dissonant, conflicting vi brations. Thus is the pleasing sense of perception of good music conveyed to the brain, where its benignancy is in turn transmitted to the sympathetic nervous system, . which directs the functions of the heart, the lungs, the stomach, and other organs. Thus Is good music not only psychic for the soul, dissipating mental depression and soothing emotional disturbances, but it also enhances nutrition, fur thers digestion (wherefore Voltaire spoke of 'liver music'), quickens the pulse, and helps to restore organic unity. "Indeed, the entire human machin ery will run all the better for occa sional lubrication with a stream of melody that is sweetly played in tune, and which 'will help thee in thy need in sickness, grief, and all adversities.' It is truly one of humankind's most inestimable blessings that into our stream of consciousness there may (be we so disposed) empty themselves most mellifluously "those purling riv ulets, those rippling brooks, those laughing waters, those sparkling cas cades which have their springs in concords of sweet sounds." The effect of music on tho human eystem is well exemplified in the fact that the music of a band will carry marching men along with a swing, whereas without the band they drag along with a dispirited gait. It is a distinct stimulant, as even the hurdy gurdy has proven to you timo and again. It tones up the nerves and gives courage. KNITTED SOCKS ARE PLEASING TO DEVOTEES OF OUTDOORS Directions Following Specifications of Red Cross Provide for Putting New flecls and Toes. Closet Prevents Sneezing. Popular Science Monthly. Sneezing is a warning of a cold. At Wellesley college there Is a little white, zinc-lined room that is guar anteed to make one sneezeless and snuffless, provided one seeks it In time. When the twitching nose is first felt a trip to the "coryza closet" is made. Here the fumes of formalde hyde and eucalyptus oil are imhaled The tight-fitting door prevents the escape of the fumes and if tho pa tient remains in the place a few sec onds, there need be no fear of the cold getting beyond the first stages. Book Proves Hoy's Claim. Syracuse Post-Standard. One day a teacher asked the class the meaning of the word furlough. Jack was called upon, and said. "It means mule; it says so in a book.',' The teacher asked for the book and of course it was brought forward. Many pages were turned until Jack came to a picture of a soldier sitting on a mule. At the bottom of the picture was written, "Going . home on his furlough." By CLOTILDE. MEN who are in the open a great deal are certain to find noth ing more satisfactory for their feet than knitted socks. It is pos sible to prolong the life of the socks by knitting in new heels or toes, as may be needed, really making them like new again. The following directions follow tho specifications of the American P.cd Cross: One and one-half hanks o knitting worsted and five No. 12 steel needles w ill be needed. On each of four needles cast on 20 stitches making SO in all. When this start has been made knit 2 and purl 2 for 4 im-nes. One stitch is purled each row. and this stitch is called the seam stitch; then knit plain until the work meas ures 7 inches. Next, narrow each side of the seam stitch. This Is done by knitting to within 2 stitches of the seam stitch, then 2 are knitted together, the seam stitch is purled; slip 1, knit 1; pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch and knit 5 rows plain. Repeat these directions until you have nar rowed for 5 rows. Now knit plain un til the sock measures 10 '4 inches. To begin heel use tho needle on either side of the seam stitch, and from now the scam stitch is not used. Slip 3 stitches from the front to the back needles. This should give you 36 stitches 18 on- each needle. Al ways slip the first stitch. Knit 1 row and pull 1 row, alternating in this manner until the piece measures 3 inches. Purl 20 stitches, purl 2 to gether, turn, slip 1, knit 4, knit 2 to gether, turn, slip I, purl 5, purl 2 together, turn. Keep on in this man ner unTiil the stifchos are used. To make gusset: I'ick up and kui( the stitches nn the left side of the heel-piece. Knit across both instep needles, pick up and knit the stitches on the other side of the heel-piece, knit across the heel, and then knit 3 plain rounds. Now knit to within the 3 last stitches on tho right-hand gus set needle. Knit 2 together, knit 1; knit across the instep needles, knit 1 on tho other gusset needles, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over tho knitted stitch, and knit the re maining stitches. Knit 1 plain round and repeat these 2 rows until there are 10 decreasing rows. Knit plain on all 4 needles until the foot meas ures ! inches from 'the back of the heel. . To narrow for the toe: ' Knit S Fitches, knit 2 together, knit 6 and repeat for 1 round. Knit 6 rows without narrowing. Knit 5 stitches, then narrow by knitting 2 together, knit 5 and continue once around. Knit 5 rows without narrowing. Then knit 4 stitches and narrow the same as before. Knit 4 rows plain. Keep on narrowing this way until thero aro 24 stitches left. These aro divided on 2 needles 12 on each. To Join the toe: Tho yam should always be held underneath the needles. I'sc a darning neodlu, threading with the worsted. Hold ing the front needle next to you, in sert the ni-edlc from right to left In the first stitch on the front needle as if to purl; then. :is if to purl, put the needle in the first stitch on the back needle, and slip that stitii from the needle. Thru, as if to knit. In iirst stitch on back needle Httd as if to knit put the needle in the first stitch on the front needle, and slip that stitch from the needle; as if to knit back stitch, us if to knit front stitch, and slip t h;it stitch from the needle; as if to purl tho front stitch; as if to purl the back stitch, and slip that stitch from the needle; then, ns if to knit the back stitch, as if to knit the front stitch, and slip that stitch from the needle. Keep on in this way until the joining is finished; then "darn back and forth for several inches , to insure against ripping.