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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Aug. 21, 1921)
t TUB SUNDAY OIIEGONIAX, rORTLAXD, AUGUST 21, 1921 SILK IS WORN THROUGH ENTIRE SUMMER AND IS FOUND TO BE COOLEST COSTUME Comfort Is Afforded by Looseness and Short Sleeves Help, Too Material Formerly Discarded During Dog day Weather in' Favor of Something Thin and Cool Is Proving to Be Popular Again. 1 S" w I 1' f .1 J? 4. J--: i j I ff ' iT7. ; M I it ' - I l- I f.''iif.'i,i v. I , 1 a - l ! A - 1 I - v t ' lb j ' . 2 i Mt r y : " K 1 5 y 1 J ll - v" - . 4 sz?J? P6r7rs THE "!mmtr silk" ueed to be dis carded during dogday weather in favor of something- really thin and cool! But silk dresses are polng right through this summer and are deemed the coolest and most com fortable .costumes for even sticky, j humid days. One reason for the coolness of preent-day silk frock Is their looseness; they hang as com fortably as negliges. The short sleeves help too and the absence of trimminfr or crisp coliar at the neck. One frock pictured is of Hard ing blue crepe de chine, hemstitched across the bodice and with knife pleated frills on Bkirt and sleeve. Another is one of the little girlish dance frocks that have sup planted extremely decolete shoulder-strapped gowns for summer eve ning wear. Besides its engaging youthfulness, it has a cool sugges tion, has it not? because of its whiteness and its simplicity. ' It is built of canton crepe on straight chemise lines, with the short sleeve and round Jeune fille neckline; and rows of white fringe trim the apron tunic. A narrow belt with buckles la a change from the customary sash, and of course the bplt buckles are pur white, like the frock. Sport hats for mid-August natural ly hare wide and shady brims and are built of the lightest posslhle material. One model la of a featherweight straw In a lovely shade of blue and even the smart trimming of white angora cannot make the blue shade hat other than cool perhaps because angora has been accepted as a mid summer hat trimming and nobody re members that it Is a mid-winter sort ftl wool. A. looped fringe of ancora mmv' Cxr7 r .s. Pv . v JZr? edges the brim and crocheted motifs imitate big flowers. Long and wide knitted scarves of dainty color are used for Veranda wear on cool evenings, instead of the surplice and sash sweaters that were in vogue last summer. These knitted scarves are in most charming shades of American. Beauty rose, wistaria. PROBLEMS OF BY MADAMB Queries eoncernlnr dressmaking will be answered in The Sunday Oregonian each week Dy Aiaaame Kicnet. xour proDiem will be carefully considered and promptly replied to. Address letters to Madame Rlchet. dressmaking editor. The Sunday OrcKonian. All correspondence should be written upon one side of the paper only, betters received by Tuesday will be an swered the following Sunday. Replies will b made only throug these columns. PORTL.AJTD, Aug. . My Dear Madame Richet: Weald you pleas tell me It there are any schools In Portland where train ing In coMums design may ba obtained? 1 I finished ths bom economics course in high school and one year In college. Thanking yeu for the Information. L. E. V. L. gi EJ. V t regret that I cannot iv'e you the desired informa tion, regarding such s school In Fort land, but should you care to take up a correspondence course youwill find the names of several such schools who advertise in the various style books of standard publication. ASTORIA. Or., Aug. 15. Dear Madame Richet; As you help so many others with J-Aj- JF?j-cA 7y5? Jade, parma violet, eoral, turquoise and the like. Some of them are pure white, with long, white wool fringe. They are two yards long and at least 22 inches wide and fold and drape about the figure very gracefully. Some of them are striped In drop- stitch effect; others are in plain knitted stitch with drop-stitch lines in groups for a border. DRESSMAKING 1UCHET. be ab( to help me. I am Just 5 feet and very stout with brown hair and hasel eyea. Would you suggest a loose short coat on a suit or on ot the new tight-fitting long - ..iw wuai coior no you think would suit me? What kind of cloth and what color is best for a riding habit? Thanking you la advance. MRS. Q. E. 1 Mrs. G. E. L., Attoria. Or. For your suit I would suggest a semi-fitted long Jacket. Tou can wear navy blue, sorrento. byzantine, volney, sphinx, Zansibar. A rid-ine habit of blue, brown or black In serge or covert cloth would be in good style. CEDAR MILLS, Dr.. Aog. . Dear Mad ame Richet: I am Inclosing a pencil sketch and sample of a three-place dress. I would appreciate your suggestions for altering it and making It more up to date, J " waist. i you think some coarse embroidery In a darker shade of gray, or braiding, would Improve the pan els, which reach to the bottom of the skirt? Would you have the buttons taken off the pockets? And will you tell me now nest to use the blue samole? rtin. i becoming to .me, as my eyes are blue, hair turning gray; tall, waighlnc IAS pounds I triut X have mad myself, cleax and thank yon in advance for your help. Do you consider tal sample too much out of date to be usd for waist and panel over black satin skirt T How wide should th skirt be and should the panels be as long s the skirt? Very truly. ANNA SIMPSON. Anna. Simpson, Cedar Mills, Or.: I have moat carefully studied your sketches and samples, and for trim ming the three-piece suit- ray first choice would be green sequins- or nail heads sewed on in clusters along the edge of waist sleeve, also tunic. Sew on the sequins, three near the edge, then two and then one, which will form a pyramid of course leaving a space . between the clusters. Auother treatment would be to use green and blue yarn, or worsted, or ribbonzette for embroideiy stitches the green to predominate. The type of material calls for a most conven tional design. Would advise a cream or ecru ba tiste, or net vest, in place of the blue silk vest. For waist line treatment I would suggest a black cire ribbon or the very latest girdle effect in green and blue metal or beads. The Jacket Is almost hopeless, but with a girdle draped at elongated waistline and a squirrel chocker to give the neck line an up-to-date ap pearance, you could wear the Jacket when necessary and have the effect of a one-piece frock. Remove the buttons, also pockets. Turn back the front and have a green cloth vest trimming on either side to match your waist and tunic the jacket fronts. Tour blue is not at all out of date and should make up into a most attractive gown. Have your panels irregular at hem line and some portion of, tunic below your skirt Make your tunic open but without any space down the front, trim your skirt down the center line with tiny blue buttons made of your material. also haye same treatment down front of wa 1st. Study the designs In style books and . select - preferably one that has elongated waist line and tunic in one. When panels are used skirts are about one and one-half yards wide. Most of the dressy garments are now ankle length. PORTLAND, Awr. 12. Dear Madame Richet: I have four yards of 40-lnch chif fon black veivet for a dress. Will you kindly advise me as to how It should b made and what trimming to use? I am 45 years old, am S feet 3 Inches in height. weigh 144 pounds (am considered rather short and plump In appearance), have gray eyes, light hair slightly gray, sensi tive skin which was once freckled and slightly so now. Am enclosing a samDle of purple Jersey which I would like dyed a -darker shade of purpls if possible. If not possible, what shade could It be dyed and what kind of dye should I use? Thamking you in ad vance for any suggestion. A SUBSCRIBER. P. S. Had thought of a short cap ef fect for black velvet dress. Do-you think that would be good style for the coming year? Again thanking you for your ad vice, i. G. O. Li. G. G. For your black chiffon velvet I would suggest a one-piece or elongated waist and gathered skirt joined to waist; and, too, the style books are showing some slightly draped models. To have a back panel or cape effect draped from Italian neck-line would be most attractive. The lateet sleeves are long, full shaped, and in many cases the straight Chinese sleeve; also, bishop's sleeve, - and. too, very short, tight- fitting sleeves are worn. Have a very narrow vest opening, with a green metaline vestee. Trim your velvet waist sleeves and skirt with black bugle beads selecting conven tional design. The shops are showing most beautiful ready-made trimmings which might interest you. Would advise black jet girdle at elongated aistllne. Tour purple Jersey is so pretty It seems a pity to dye same. However, it should dye well a darker shade or black. To name specifically any dye would be to commercialise this col umn, but you may be sure of any of the three or four popular brands now in the shops. I suppose you know that your Jersey will shrink when dyed. IDAHO. Aug. 13. Mr. Dear Madame Richet: Your answers to others' questions Interest and help ma. Can you help me plan my winter wardrobe? I am a busi ness woman and must always loolc my best. Is anything better than dark blue serge for service, and rood taste? Will sleeves for the coming season be short or long In utility dresses? Please suggest proper foot dress for business and dress wear.. For wear with separate blouses, which .would you consider best, a pleated skirt, straight skirt or a circular one? I am young enough to wear any style that Is .becoming, but am too short, 5 feet, for all styles to be becoming. Thank ing you in advance. M. A . M. A. E., Idaho. There Is nothing nicer for office wear through the winter than & one-piece dress. But before selecting serge, which is al ways splendid, ask to see the new fabric called piquetine. The sleeves in such a dress as you would wear for off'ce had best be three-fourths length and a bit bell shape. Long sleeves are uncomfortable and wear. A black or tan pump, with military heel and well-fitted spats of tan or taupe would be proper for footwear, and should you not favor spats shoes in the above named color and heel will be equally good. For a skirt to wear with separate blouse I would choose the plain straight-line with part of fullness taken out from waist line down at hip-line seam. Slashed pockets well tailored will be in good style and add utility. NEWBERG, Or., Aug. IS. Dear Ma dame Richet: I have a plain gathered white crepe de chine akirt, two yards wide, and two yards of new crepe de chine which I intend ta dye gray. Can you sug gest a way to make a. suitable afternoon frock from It? I am rather stout, 145 pounds. 5 feet 5 Inches tall, 39-inch bust, 28-inch waist, hips 40, aae 23, brown hair and lots of color. 1 should like to trim the dress In em broidery or stitching, or some such trim ming I can make myself. What color should I use? 1 have already received many valuable hints from your columns. MRS. N. M. D. Mrs. N. Ml D.. Newberg Or. Tou have in your crepe de chine the mak ing of a very pretty frock. Have the elongated waistline, to which Join your full-gathered skirt and as b color combination with gray there is the royal blue. There are many ways in which you can trim your dress. Either embroider same with new floss, ribbonette or chenille, or use ribbon loops as trimming around neck, down the front and sleeve edge. Another trimming now very popular .re the banging bands of material about 2V4 Inches, finished and placed in line with the hips at the top of which is a corded button or ornament made of same material. From six to eight 'of these bands "flutter" over the skirt. Deep fringe is also very effec tive to use in place of the bands. PORTLAND. Ang. 15. Dear Madame Richet: I have had so much help from your column in The Oregonlan that I am asking tor help also. I have a dress Ilk the enclosed sample. There are two and one-half widths, straight, gathered at the waist, in the skirt, made when the skirts wore worn ankle length. The waist was surplice effect, with chiffon cloth sieevea What kind of material can 1 use with It; also, what color and how can I make it over for an evening dress? I am 5 feet 5 inches tall and near 50 years old. hava brown hair streaked with gray and rather clear complexion, weigh ISO pounds. Any suggestions you will make will be very thankfully received. MRS. A. S A. Mrs. A. S. A. Inasmuch as you desire to make your duress over for evening wear, why not use a deep flounce of silver lace over your crepe d chine or drape lace? Also have short lace sleeves and a narrow gir dle of geranium shade velvet would add much to your combination. If neck line is not out low 1 would ug geet shaping -the neck line to con form with the euprfllce draped waist. MARKS OF OLD AGE APPEAR WHEN NECK BADLY TOGGED little Attention Each Day Will Ward Off Tell-tale Evidences for Long Time -Special Care Is Necessary. " : "ri:;- -" I - , V ...4.- iff 'J. :srr:r life. : . - - ' - y.- . -' ' . ., v - 1 ' r T pays to devote special care and attention to the neck. There the first marks of advancing age ap pear, but a little attention each day will ward off the telltale evidences a long time. Massage the neck twice a week with cold cream (8074) and dash cold water on it mornings to keep the flesh firm. Flabbiness is to be avoided under the chin, a cushion of fat at the nape and oblique lines beneath the ears. Mas sage will take care of the lines, but to the massage must be added exercise If you wish to preserve the youthful . contour at front and back. I Bend the head far forward until I BY LORETTA KING. Valuing One's Service. E ARE all here for our daily luncheon chats again; Ann, Marlon, Dorothy and I. For the first few days after their return Marion and Dorothy could neither th-lnk nor talk of anything but those precious holidays. We got baok yes terday to our pre-vacatlon status. however. ' Just before we left the table Marion remarked Irrelevantly, "How strange it is that so many changes occur, or seem to ocv;ur, at home and at the office during one's absence. "I suppose," she said, "it's because no change really occurs without some tiny forewarning sign which im presses us, consciously or uncon sciously, when we're there, so that when the actual motion nakes place wo are really prepared for it. Did something happen at home that you were unprepared for?" Ann asked her. K. nothing startling at noms mis time." Marion answered meditatively. Then after a tew momenta ui she said, "Eut I found several cnanges at the office, one oi inmu csiii.i.u, interested and surprised me. it's too late to tell you about it now," she said, gathering up ner purse anu gloves, "but if you'll remind me 111 tell you about it tomorrow." We didn't have to remind her of the story today, however, fane had hard ly slipped into her place at the table when she began: iou never uiu ms speak of Miss Emery. Somehow or other there never seemed to be anything about her that excited In terest or curiosity. She's been with the firm for years; was there when I came. But up to a week ago I don't think there 'were more than three peo ple in the house who knew her well, and certainly not more than a score who even knew her by nam. . "Im one of the three who knew her pretty well, and it was only by acci dent that I discovered what a really luoerior person she is and what a nor feet workman. "I decided to stay one night after nvervbody else had left to make up an intricate report that had been bothering me. I'd kept putting off doing It. because it was such a hard job, until X reached a deadline. The report had to be turned In in the morning. Miss Emery passed my desk on the way out, and as she nodded good-night and asked. "Not ready to leave yet? I pointed to the papers on. my. desk and answered, 'X the chin touches the caest. Then bend It backward as far as it will go (5205). Then bend toward one side until the ear touches the shoulder; then to the other side. Take these exercises ten times each and very Blowly. Finally roll the head around limply on the end of the spinal columns, first in one direction, then in the other. Do this once a day! Here is an exercise to strengthen and tighten flabby muscles under the chin: With your teeth tight together, grin as broadly as you can and with a long breath say ee-ee ee until the breath is completely gone. You will feel the pull of the cords and ten- dons under the chin. can't go home tonight until I've cleaned up this me as.' "My voice and gesture probably teemed more weary and worried than .d. meant them to, for shs stopped walked back a step or two, hesitated and finally said rather timidly, 'I'd like to help you clear that work ur If 1 wouldn't be interfering.' "Ordinarily I wouldn't have taken anyone at her word like that, but she seemed so sincere In her wish to help that I found it easier to accept her offer than turn it down. a "She took off her hat and with a few instructions from me started Bet ting my papers into order with a swiftness and ease that astonished me. Her tabulations in the draft of the report she made ready for me to copy were the work of-an artist. The whole thlnsr took less than an hour, and alone I'd have struggled over It for three. I never turned in a finer looking- piece of work, either. "I watched her after that and won dered, when I saw some expert bit of work she'd done, why she had never been picked for one of the big; 5obs In the house. Here, I thought, was exceptional talent p'olng to waste on a Job that any ordinarily Intelligent person could handle without much effort.- Then I realised suddenly that there was such a thins; as beinjr too good for your Job too- perfect a workman. If you did your work well, without a hitch, if things ran along too smoothly so that there was never any friction, I reasoned, you were likely to get yourself overlooked in a big Institution like ours: especially If you were of a reserved disposition. And that's what happened to Miss Emery. She was so unobtrusive and did her work so completely and per fectly that no one realised she was there. a " "Well, I've had to readjust my Ideas somewhat since I've come back. It does pay, after all, to be good on your Job. Miss Emery was discovered while I was away. Of course it's taken a long time, but I imagine she'd say it was worth it. She's got the best woman's Job in the house snd she'll probably hold on to it as long as she wants it, "Her predecessor left suddenly Jour weeks ago. and three girls, one after the other, were tried out. and failed. The heads of the firm were about to hire somebody from outside when one of them happened to notice Miss Em ery working qu'etly in her corner. He was suddenly inspired to sound her out. He knew she had been there long time and wondered why none of them had thought of her before. After he'd talked to her a few minutes he walked straight Into the president's office, one of the girls told me, with OAPiLli'G BABY Children's Laughter i Mrs. Jartssen's experience of interest to childless -wives. Millston, Wis. " I want to grive you a word of praise for your wonderful medicine. We are fond of children, and for a considerable time after we were married I feared I would not have any. I began taking Lydia E. Pink ham's Vegetable Compound, and it strengthened me so I now have "a nice strong, healthy baby girl. 1 suffered very little at childbirth, and I give all the credit to your medicine, and shall always recommend ithichlv .Mm H. H. Janssen, Millston, Wis. ' Mrs. Held of Marinette, Wis., adds her testimonial for JLydia E. Pinkham's Vegetable Compound. She says: Marinette, Wis. " I was in a nervous condition and very irregular. My doctor advised an operation. My husband brought me one of your booklets and asked me to try Lydia E. Pinkham's Vegetable Compound. It overcame my weakness so that I now have a healthy baby girl after having been mar ried nine years. " I am glad to recommend your medicine, and you may use my letter as a testimonial. " Mrs. H. B. Held, S30 Jefferson St., Marinette, Wis. There are many, many such homes that were once childless, and are now blessed with healthy, happy children Because Lydia E. Pinkham's Vegetable Compound has restored the mother to a strong and healthy condition, as it acts as a natural restorative for ailments as indicated by backache, irregu- miiuo, uupot-cuicuui, weakness ana Women everywhere should remember of women are not the surgical ones they are not caused by serious displace ments or growths, although the symptoms may be the same, and that is why Krk VYlOni, .nna.Anfln .... . .' 1 . 'l 1 1 . V . T . . . - . , . " "H"" "-'j ocuuua aiimeuu reaany yieia to X.yaia Hi. rillKOBm B Vegetable Compound, as it acts as a natural restorative. It can be taken with perfect safety and often prevents serious troubles. Therefore if you know of any woman to secure relief and is regretfully looking forward to a childless old age, ask herto try-Lydia E. Pinkham's Vegetable Compound, as it has brought health and happiness into so many homes once darkened by illness and despair. JLydia E. Pinkham's Private Peculiar to Women " will be sent to you free upon request. Write to The Lydia E. Pinkham Medicine Co., Lynn, Massachusetts. This book contains valuable information. Gray Hair Falsely Proclaims Her Age She had been using other toilet articles regularly to retain her youthful charm and loveliness. She now justifiably conquers this false indication of age with harmless "Brownatone" as thousands of others have done. "Brownatone" quickly tints gray, faded, or bleached heir to distinct, natural shades of brown or black and will make you look years younger. Odorless, sresselew and i u.rsnteed sbeolutely harmless. Used easily st borne. Applications sre only required at intervals of from 4 to 6 weeks, depending on hair growth. Sold and recommended by drug snd derailment stores e.cry where. 1 wo colors, Oolden to Medium crown Brown to Black". 50c and $1.50 sisas. Sample bottle, with essy, complete directions, sent direct on receipt ot 11c tor postsce, packing, and war TEE KENTON PEARMACAL CO. 606 Coppin Building Covington, Kentucky, U. S. A. BROWNATONE a grin from ear to ear. In a few minutes Miss Kmery was summoned, and the next day she took over the new work." It was an interesting story. I thought. But it seemed to me Miss Kmery waited so long for recognition not because, as Marion said, she was too good for her Job, but because she had failed to place a full valuation on, her services. She was too humble and self-effacing. The business world is one of strong competition, and to suc ceed you've got to assert yourself enough so that your talents and ac complishments will be noticed and ap preciated. Mexico Una World Wonder, Kansas City Star. Not only are the two great pyra mids, those of the Sun and the Moon, situated near San Juan de Teotihau can, Mexico, to be restored to their original lines but the Mexican govern ment has made an appropriation for excavating and reconstructing the ruins of the great burled city sur rounding the pyramids, which flour ished more than 4000 years ago. Dur ing the last few years immediately preceding the revolutionary period considerable work had been done In the matter of clearing away the ac cumulation of debris that covered the pyramid of the Sun, and it stands forth today as one of the greatest wonders of the world, according to archaeologists. This pyramid is three times as large as the great Cheopa pyramid near Cairo, Egypt, and in its construction giant blocks of stone were used. It is 1400 feet square at the bottom. In height it is only 200 feet and but for this fact would be New Way to Curl Hair Fine for Outdoor Girl The sllmerina method of curling the hair la the proper thing: before g-olng mo toring-, boating- or golfing, or Indulging- In any outdoor sport or exercise. This wilt not only giva th hair the most baau- tfful wavy and curly appearance imagin able, but wind or beat will not take the Curl out. The curllness Is quickly acquired and lasts much longer than where wav ing tongs ere used. Besides the hair will be bright and lustrous, instead of dull and dead looking. When combed out It will be as nine and fluffy aa it it had last been shampooed. Just get a oortie or nquia eumerine at any drug or department store, follow the aocompanylng directions, and you will be simply delighted with the result. This product la of course perfectly harmless snd there lai nothing sticky, greasy or un pleasant about It. Adv. Docfcrs Rccommsnd Ccn-Opto for ths Eyes Physicians and eye specialists pre scribe Bon-Opto as a safe home remedy in the treatment of eye troubles and tc strengthen eyesight. Sold under mones J refund ua$&ntee by all druggists. niGIITEFJS HOME a Pleasing Sound Altoona, Pa. "I am writing- to tell you what Lydia E. Pinkham's Vegetable Com pound has dona for me. Wa had six children die almost tn birth. From one hour to nine-' teen days is all they have lived. Before my next one was born I took a dozen bot tles of your Vegetable Com pound, and I can say that it is the greatest medicine on earth, for thia baby is now four months old, and a healthier baby you would not want. I am sending you s picture of her. Everybody ays ' That is a very healthy looking baby. You have my consent to show these few lines to anybody." Mrs. C. W. Benz, 131 3rd Avenue, Altoona, Pa, nervousness. that, mrvat- nf tVio nmmnnov .;u..t. who is suflferiner snrl hajt rtoon nnV,l Text-Book upon "Ailments one of the most imposing structures) ever-made by man. It is stated. Ths pyramid of the Sun Is smaller than the one of the Moon. Ccticura Ointcient Is ' Seething After Slnrog After shaving with Cuticrrra Soap, the Cuticura way, gently rub tender spots on face with Cuticura Oint ment. Then wash all off with Cuti cura Soap and hot water. Rinse with tepid water. BWptel!TToVTlam Addrxs: "Cser lab tmolM. Ip. SSaOidoa S Jlasa." Sold emrr yVm. Soap ffla. OwcsMBt SS sod iOa, Taietnn2ba. SsWaCaoicsvm Saashavne without nas. TODAY'S BEAUTY HINT It is not necessary to shampoo your hair so frequently if it is en tirely and properly cleansed each time by the use of a really good shampoo. The easiest to use and quickest drying shampoo that we can recommend to our readers is one that brings out all the natural beauty of the hair and may be en Joyed at very little expense, by dis solving a teaspoonful of CanthroX which can be obtained from any druggist, in a cup of hot water. This makes a full cup ot shampoo liquid enough so it is easy to apply It to all the hair Instead of Just to the top of the head. This, when rubbed, into the scalp and onto every strand of hair, chemically dissolves all Impurities. It Is very soothing and cooling in Its action, as well aa beneficial to both scalp and hair. After rinsing out the lather so cre ated, you will find the scalp Is fresh, clean and free from dandruff, while the hair dries quickly and evenly, de veloping a bright luster and a eoft fluffiness that make it aeetn very; heavy, ah v. 5 f 1 id lar- . i I
