Image provided by: University of Oregon Libraries; Eugene, OR
About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (July 11, 1920)
9 TIIE SUNDAY OREGONIAX, PORTLAND, JULY 11, 1920 The ThreeOurice Costume (Exclusive of Shoes and Hat) Chemise . , . . . Combination ... ; 1 Stockings. . ; .,, . - : . Vz oz. Dres . i .'V VA oz. Paris IssUNewN- ' ''?'X-?S1 f J SiP Mandate for Fashionable Women to (V- "j J . yp !, ' I fHPSt jgf C ' Cl 1 1 ; j. i SA V j . I la a almple tulle thins of delicate r , V c K y 1 . . - -J- V. VVk V C 5 IV j V I I - "i IKf Network. L I '$ v- a ' . - :----rC4A 1 f ) I J- i I'5f purely for the masculine fat-wits, who r" I' - t - " - C ; 7 i I V", f-r-i' "1 are not aware how delicately the spin- fV' . $ - I ; - , ""J A y 1 i " ' " K?VP! 'V l1 ners of silk and workers In lace can 1 ' s V ' " "r 7 I I I s r'! i1; If fabricate in their craft. But it is F ' . ' TTr- v. . . V I iH'kC-W .:J l-i something that every woman knows. I V'- '" ! I f "V r Vs I 4H"""T"H And now what is more important L ' V" i s. . 1 , I sxx L"3 t ' j than all, the three-ounce costume has " ?. , ' ' s V. i 3 ' ' I I " " if 5 v t the unqualified indorsement of men 1 " , " K - r " j r- TV v s s T 14 wiu be those who will denounce the ' ,v S , il C , TJ I, 'f " i ' f s' K ' t"i V4 limit to which the Parisian modistes f , s ? ' 'f' j - s '"atriiiii(iiijl ? j have gone in their striving for novel- . .. i -,1. " t s I s " I'l ty' Dut Just the same, an eminent f I $ I I doctor, without knowing that he was , fV i $f j I bespeaking favor for a cause so far : ,' i. s " Z"'" i ' V I j i f J removed from the field of health, has t-' , - ' - f " ' s ' ' ' I ft? 11 J Vi Just come out with an appeal for fern- j y.) - , i I f j f V inlne garb of less weight than that r " M I y which has been accepted as complying 1 ' t V '- I J JSj- W with the demands of a capricious cli- ( I 5 I 4 ' " mate- r - - ' '"I t ! ii't- f ' This doctor Is Joslah Oldfield. one ' jv Mv I V J JjLj of the most remarkable figures in : '" . - jr-n -'",. I '',' jf England's medical world, Britain's . C V - f i - . youngest centenarian. He has been de- ""M't , jf f i scriDea as ine aocior who aamns & v j f ill llll I Li-7 ': :A ' 1 fan, the clothea this young woman weara Excluding oboes, jewelry and weigh little more than 16 ouncea, BY ETHEL, THURSTON. WHEN Shakespeare, in one of his gayest and most whimsical moods, dashed- off Mercutio's speech in "Romeo and Juliet" about Queen Mao's coaching outfit whip lash of film, horses hitched "with traces of smallest spider's webs and collars of moonshine's watery beams" and all that sort of thing he ex posed exactly the intimate knowl edge of dainty ingredients required for employment now in description of the newest dictate of fashion, the one-pound trousseau, which Queen j Mab herself might have looked on with envy. Sixteen ounces is a pound. Five complete toilettes in a trous seau. Five into 16 "goes" three times and a wee fraction, as we used to say in the arithmetic class back in the little red school house in the old days when trousseaux were, oh, such terribly clumsy and unwieldly affairs! Therefore, we come to the three unce toilette, a complete -costume weighing scarcely more than the Jeweled rings on the slender fingers of the costume's gentle owner. For, of course, tne owner will be wearing rings. She will be wearing them because she possesses them. That much is assured, for the three- ounce costume of itself connotes wealth. Formerly we measured styles by the yard. Now we are doing it on the scales, which leads, inci dentally, to the observation that when we purchase fashion by avoirdupois weight we must pay by troy weight. for rtuly, it will require fine gold to be an habitual wearer of the three- ounce toilette. But that is neither here nor there. Fashion has announced that the wom an who would wear the latest mode should have the three-ounce costume, without saying a word about the weight of the price and that settles it. Introducing Featherweight Faahiona. Right here it should be set forth and with no attempt at being flip pant, either that the three-ounce costume ia noji intended to be worn at the St. Paul Ice palace, " not X tb.e JJfintre&l winter carnival, nor the snowshoeing contests at Lake Ta hoe, nor any of the other places where fashion leaders go in the winter time. The announcement is made in all seriousness for the men who read this article. And every man who sees it will read it. Be certain of that. What else do they go to see the various assortments of "Follies" and "Frolics" and "Scan dals" and "Revues" for, if it is not to study styles. However, as we were saying, the three-punce costume, is not a mere experiment, waiting to be made by some daring leader of fashion. It has already arrived. Quite correct. Tou guessed it the very first time. From Paris. Its success was so pro nounced right from the start that the couturiers are now chiefly concerned as to how they may pare off a little more from the three ounces. The Innovation was introduced last month at Longchamps races. Every society leader of the French capital in attendance was clad according to the new featherweight mandate. It was estimated that the average weight of the clothea worn by the fashion able beauties in the grandstand did not exceed three ounces. One world famous designer of woman's clothes gave this amazing compilation of one of the now de rlguer zephyr suits: Chemise 4 oz. Combination (shirt and camisole) . . J oz. Stockings (pair H oz. Dress 1 oz. So analyzed, the mechanical diffi culty of assemblying a three-ounce costume does not seem so great- Pumps or sandals, of course, are not included. There are no corsets, cer tainly; the things are almost obsolete. Correspondingly there are no metallic garters or stocking supporters to add bulk to the costume. One would use silk elastic for the net work stockings or thin rubber bands for half-hose, which are optional. And as for the combination suit, that essentially would be of the sheerest as well as the finest of silk. The overdress, or gown, as one pleases to call it, is of finely wrought lace, with shoulder straps of whatever filmy material the wearer may fancy. All this minute detail la- Offered purely for the masculine fat-wits, who are not aware how delicately the spin ners of silk and workers in lace can fabricate in their craft. But it is something that every woman knows. And now what is more important than all, the three-ounce costume has the unqualified indorsement of men of science. There may be, doubtless will be, those who will denounce the limit to which the Parisian modistes have gone in their striving for novel ty, but, just the same, an eminent doctor, without knowing that he was bespeaking favor for a cause so far removed from the field of health, has just come out with an appeal for fem inine garb of less weight than that which has been accepted as complying with the demands of a capricious cli mate. This doctor Is Joslah Oldfield, one of the most remarkable figures in England's medical world, Britain's youngest centenarian. He has been de scribed as "the doctor who admits being 96 years old, looks to be 60 and acts like he was 30." All of his time s spent at his hospital in Kent, where he receives incurables, persons dying of old age and makes new men and women out of them by scientific feed ing. The greatest argument that his course is a success is himself. The fewer and lighter garments women wear, he says, the healthier To keep within the three-ounce limit Parlalan women have taken to pen- worai auk. atoclLlnaja aa light aa a veil. and more beautiful and the freer in I The face is the healthiest portion of mind and body they will be. Air and I the skin in the entire body and this sunshine are the best of all cosmetics. I is because it is usually naked. The prudes who contend that woman has to burden herself with heavy, unbe coming clothing in order to conform with the laws of decency are gen erally those whose bodies are more slightly covered than uncovered. "The heaviest clothed in every cli mate are neither the most moral nor the most healthy. Woman's body is like a beautiful plant. It needs ventilation and sunlight." So far, neither New York, Chicago nor San Francisco has yet presented a three-ounce costume at any public gathering. The tendency of the vogue, though, is pronounced. In New York, Mme. Frances, exclusive and ultra fashionable dress artiste, has sounded the warning. "It is going to be the season of the flapper," asserts madame. "You must not weigh more than 115 pounds 100 is better and if you do weigh 115. you must not look it. Therefore, censor your diet. This season is to be corsetless, blpless and 1 curveless, excepting, of course, for such rounded outlines as are disclosed by undraped arms." In one other channel, too, the three ounce costume may show its fine points. One can never tell: in these days of strikes one never knows when the baggage man and the transfer man and the elevator man are going to disappoint us. What a comfort It will be if madame can call Felice, the maid, and speak something after this manner: "Felice, I think I'll run down to the shore for the week end. Never mind packing a satchel: just stuff about four evening gowns and a couple of boardwalk dresses In one of my handbags, will you that old beaded one with the gold chain will do. "And, oh, Felice .don't make it too "And, oh, Felice, don't make it too know, and I don't feel at all strong, myself. If it should weigh too much take out two or three pairs of stock ings. Should I run short at the beach I'll get somebody to paint me a pair." DEATH, PRICE OF AMAZING VANITY OF PROTEUS Cynic Philosopher of Second Century Had Himself Burned in Order to Appear in Limelight. HE of the most amazing perhaps the most amazing instance of vanity in all history is that of Peregrinus Proteus, a cynic philoso pher of the second century or the Christian era, who. in order to be in the "limelight." had himself burned to death in a public square. Peregrinus had spent an eventful life, in which crime was believed to have played no less a part than re ligious fanaticism. He was born at Parium in Mysia, and, when still a boy, was suspected of having mur dered his own father. To escape ar rest he wenf to Palestine, where he ingratiated him'self with the Chris tians and in time became the virtual head of their community. So inordinate was his craving for being always in the public eye that. to gratify it, he wont to extremes of fanaticism in his conduct, and was locked up by order of the governor of Syria. The gdvernor, finding that imprls onment only seemed to whet the man's fanaticism, concluded that the best thing, after all, was to allow him to gt free, as he might otherwise come to be regarded as a martyr. He now returned to Parium and claimed his father's estate; but the suspicion which had rested upon him in regard to his father's death had not yet subsided apd he found the temper of the people so hostile that he concluded it would he wisest to make a virtue of necessity. According, he gave his inheritance to the munic ipality of Parium and went away to renew his career of wandering. Once more he sought to attain dis tinction among the Christians, but was detected in an act of profanation of the rites of the church, and was put under the ban of excommunication. He reached Egypt after a while and there made the acquaintance of the cynic Agathobulus and joined the sect. The Cynics, whose name is derived from the Greek word which means "dog," were so-called on account of their homeless, dog-like life and the snarling manner which they displayed toward every foible, falling or vice in whomsoever they found it. Aga thobulus evidently discerned the true reason for Peregrinus' wish to become a Cynic namely, an urge to get into the limelight; and accordingly gave him no encouragement at all. On the contrary, he "snarled" at Pere grinus so viciously that the latter quit Egypt and went to Rome, de signing to put the Cynio manners into practice there. One of the first persona whom he singled out for his invective was the emperor, and he was promptly ar rested. Fortunately for him the em peror waa the mild, kind-hearted and forgiving Antonius Pius, and when he heard of the imprisonment of Pere grinus and the reason for it, he or dered him to be released. The au thorities, however, deemed it for the best interest of the city to expel him the moment he was released. He next appeared in Greece, where he taught philosophy at Athens and gathered a great number of students, among whom was the famous Aulus Gallius, who has left us a- highly favorable account of Peregrinus. But again the itch to thrust himself Into public notice got him into trouble. Hia attacks upon some of the most prominent and best-liked men. both Athenian and Roman, brought him so much unpopularity Instead of the ap plause which he had expected that he decided to take unheard-of means to recover popularity. He announced! that, on the occasion of the celebra tion of the Olympian-games, in the year 165, he would incinerate himself on a pyre, in full view of the public In addition to the many thousands of persons who had come from every part of Greece to take part In or to attend the Olympic sports, many other thousands came from other countries, drawn by Peregrinus' announcement. He did not disappoint them. Lucian, the famous author of "Dialogues of the Dead," was present and has left a description of the gruesome event- Old Farm Maxims Prove of Some Value. Judarment. Baaed on Clnae Obaervn tiona. Occasionally Worth More Than Scientific Calculations. Gas Search to Be Made. LETHBRIDGE, Alberta. No ex pense will be spared by the Canadian Western Natural. Gas, Light & Power company in their search for gas thte summer. The sum of 540,000 has been set aside for this work. During the past 19 months approximately 1300,000 has been spent on drilling and equipment. Equipment costing $200,000 is now on order and plans for drilling will entail an expendi ture of more, tnau x9V04oufl OLD farm maxims are now being collected with a view to proving their worth, and It may be that in a short time the scientific farmer's equipment will not be complete witt out a botanical garden and arboretum wherein he will cultivate plants, shrubs and trees for the information they can provide. He may even inter view his grandfather on the natural signs that manifested themselves about the time he got his big wheat yield in '7J or thereabouts. Thus does the wisdom of the forefathers mani fest Itself in this" efficient age, when everything is done by the book, and thus it is demonstrated that a wise mixture of wold maxims and new sci ence is not without excellence. For example, there are scientists in the department of agriculture who can tell practically to the day when a season should show some sigh of turning the Job over to its successor. But the trouble Is that no two sea sons are just alike. Like conditions should produce like results, as any sicentist knows, but when certain ele ments persistently refuse to be clas sified according to scientific knowl edge, judgment, based on loose ob servation, must be depended upon. As yet the department scientists have not gone so far as to admit the truth of many planting superstitions connected with the behavior of the moon, but they have discovered that the farmer who sows hls wheat be tween the full blooming of tail late goldenrod and the time when hickory leaves are distinctly colored has come nearer the truth in nature's labora tory than the scientists have come In their calculations. The department believes that wheat sowed at this time runs the best chance of escaping Hessian fly and the rust and still has time to get a good start before winter. RELIEF FUND DOUBLED British Treasury Gives Pound for Pound "With Private Charity. LONDON. Since the inauguration on June 1 last of the pound-f or-pound scheme, by which the British treasury allows 1 for every 1 raised and spent for the relief of the famine stricken areas of Europe, nearly 500.000 has been contributed by the government. The relief work for which these sums have been granted by the treasury is carried on by about 15 so cieties depending on voluntary con tributions and to a great extent on unpaid workers. The area in which relief is carried on covers Poland. Czecho-Slovakla. Vienna, Budapest, Serbia, Montenegro. Asia Minor. Cau casus and Syria. Applications for grants are also expected from organi zations which have recently started operations in Russia. Burglar Kills Himself. HILO. Island of Hawaii, T. H Morris Stratemeyer. 22 years old. who was serving a 10-year term for bur glary and who escaped in woman's clothes, committed suicide the other night when he was recaptured In his feminine garb while boardina; a, Steamer to go to Honolulu. -