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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (June 20, 1920)
6 THE SUNDAY OREGOMAN, PORTLAND. JUNE 20, 1920 GINGHAM AND ORGANDY FROCKS SEASON'S FAVORITES ; PLAID EFFECTS ARE STUNNING Morning Dress of-Lavender and White Checked Gingham an Innovation Meeting With Popular Approval. .; Tasty Trimmings Very Fashionable and Fascinating. 0ml H fi life- -. X &if::&Al l fr?? wv5gwfti ft ifc.r4? 4 i V-X V-T J; .;:; L S5-;-crj -t-' - I T r : III r i y &n- H tS THOUGH the tinted linens arc far and away the most exclusive choice of fashion this year for morning dresses, ginghams have by no means lost favor and the summer wardrobe will hardly be incomplete without two or three of these satis- r . , i nl, fpnit a nf 1 1 r-1 ' -Vl t colored ginghams. Checked ginghams seem to be the favorites, though here and there one sees a plaid effect that is stunning. Checks ar ail sizes, from tiny pin checks to big checks almost an Inch across. Sometimes the checks are majdo uu bias fashion, which is always the most becoming way when a wom an is short, or rather broad for her hrtpht. Not a few ginghams show checks running both ways, perhaps, oil the bias in bodice and ruffles, and on the straight in skirt and sleeve. Or again the skirt may be bias, with! pockets cut on the straight, and the bodice on the straight with bias trim-i inings. This alternate arrangement lirives great variety and often decided style to a simple frock. It takes a little more material to cut a whole frock on the bias for there are many email sections that cannot be used for anything but facings, but a ging ham frock is not a very costly cos tume in any event, for most of the ginghams are much lower in price than they were last year. Style Added by Accessories. The very smartest sort of gingham frock Is rather plain and very -well tailored and made of a pattern that is not too exaggerated. And the touch ef distinction that "makes" such a frock is the neckwear. A woman of wry good taste whose clothes are al ways so smart that they are forever being copied by other women, has just had made a little morning frock ' of lavender and white checked ging-hm- in a rather small check. This check Is made up on the bias. The , Pkirt- h:is three tucks- and the waist has surplice fronts and elbow sleeves finished with two-inch facings of the Ringham. A sash with a small, crisp bow at the back finished' the waist line. The ginghani cost 50 cents a yard and six yards were used $3 for the material. But to wear with this frock the woman purchased a $12 Bet of collar and cuffs. The acces sories are of sheer handkerchief linen fcxquis4tcly hand-embroidered in eye let and scallop pattern, and the ex clusiveness of that collar and cuff set w ill , set apart that simple little lilac gingham frock and make it one of the most distinctive' Tnorning cos tumes at any fclace where it appears this summer. , ,-. Orgaudy Combines With (ilngham; If you want a gingham frock that is obviously and unmistakably of this year 1020 select one with organdy trimmings, iconic or the mew ging ham costumes are- almost half or gandy. It is tnc very latest notion Organdy is used, . not handkerchief linen, though the latter material is mo very fashionable this year. Linen is among the aristocrats this sum mer. If it is used, it is used all by iTKelf and nothing is smarter. But r New Discovery Makes Superfluous Hair Leave Roots nod All lrpart Intantly. As hair or Iuzz on th face such an rmberraiwin thin. evry vroman so af- flifted will welcome the information -that these disfigurements can now be com pletely removed roots and all in th privacy of one's own home, ' without the Btta.nce of an expert. The new method will astonish and do liffhl you. Tou never saw or heard of anything; ilk H before. It in not a depil atory and not olectrlcal. ' .fust Ret a stick of phelactine from your druggist and fol low the simple directions at home. In a Jiffy you have removed the offending hairs completely. With your own eyes you see the roots rome out. Phrtacllne Is abso lutely harmle&s. n on -poisonous and per fectly odorless. Adv z.- fr . i I i ' Yri f tiM;.:- . iJ" i- - I , ' 4 s7 m. , f I S ; f'-r'j hit 'L Y 'J if - - . - ! i- Sit I r. ! ; ? I ?r4rrijrf ft ' f V i j I X v 5 J? 4 -r 4 iv " 1 I t i V. 1 .ie material t combine with ging ham, "which nev:r hopes to be num bered among the exclusive or to be anything but a stuff for little morn ing dresses, ;a organdy. In a Fifth avenue window this week is a very likable frock of red and white checked gingham and white organdy, the organdy set between bands of the gir.gham all the way up the skirt. A bodice . with - flat panels at front and back, and made of the red and white checked " gtng liam is draped over a guimpe of or gandy and the frock has an organdy sash. The guimpe is rounded out at the neck and is drawn up by a red velvet ribbon run through a flat cas ing. Another frock, of pink and black plaid gingham with a -white ground. has a tunic of white organdy crossed with bias bands of the gingham The panel waist of gingham is worn over a w-hite organdy guimpe. This idea is agreeable, cool and comfort able for summer days and 'solves the problem of gingham for midsummer. Gingham is nut one of the coolest fabrics but the gulmpe or organdy under a panel waiHt of gingham is a clever and pleasing compromise. Another frock in another shor w in - I do w is of green and white checked ginghani most intricately combined with white organdy at least the ef fect looks intricate. Yoke and hem of the skirt are of organdy, cut into xharp Vandyke- points which run downward and upward into the checked gingham. The waist is a Jaunty little affair, falling over the waistline in tabs' which are buttoned t an organdy girdle. Collar and cuffs are of organdy In Vandyke points edged with narrow lace frills. Sen I lop IMppd In White. ' The scalloped ginghams are espe cially pretty. One likes them better than the organdy-trimmed models which, though new and very much the fashion, do seem to have a rather "cut up" effect. A most charming scalloped gingham Is one of the fine yellow and white check used on the bias. The skirt has three ungathered flounces, each finished with .blunt, rounded scallops piped In white. The sleeve is scalloped . and piped with white to match. A deep shawl col lar of. white organdy is scalloped and piped with the checked ginghani. In pink and white or blue and white check this model is equally charming. To pipe scallops of this sort, lay bias strips of white organdy along the edge of your flounce or sleeve. Mark the scallops on the white mate rial and stitch through both fabrics on the penciled line. Then cut away the material from the stitched scal lops, turn, maste flat and fell the white piping around the scallop on the wrong side. Do not attempt to cut the scallops first and then bind with a narrow strip of organdy or you will have a nerve-wracking joo on your hands. In selecting a ready-made gingham dress always pick out a little larger size than you need. ' This material will shrink, even in the best qualities. and after two launderings you will need to let out the belt, let down the hem and lower the waistline a bit if your costume is to have the same good lines. In making up gingham frocks at home, allow for these shrinkages, and cut back and front of the waist a little looser than In a garment of silk, voile or linen. Sun Hats That Charm. To go with gingham morning frocks there are fascinating hats with shady brims and trimming of big. dashing bows or wreaths of flowers and ber ries. One of the latter sort is of white horsehair straw with a wreath of pale pink and soft blue flowers, pale mauve berries and pale green leaves, and the hat -will match vari ous shades in gingham. Organdy gives the 1920 touch to a gingham frock quite a novel com bination, is it not? Pink and black crossbars on a white ground afford the color in this gingham model (1705), plain white organdy, the airi ness that is so attractive. For what could be cooler than the little white organdy guimpe run with velvet rib bon at the neck? Bands of the ging ham trim the sleeves and the gathered- tunic of organdy, and organdy panels at front and back of the waist are held trimly by a belt which passes through piped slashes. Here again organdy is introduced to bring a gingham model (1922) com pletely up to date. The skirt has a vandyked yoke of organdy and col lar, cuffs and felt are of organdy, the smart little jacket-bodice falling over the belt at back and front and hav ing a peplum at the sides. Collar and cuffs are cut In Vandyke points also and notice what a big cuff it is almost covering the short sleeve. With her cool, green and white frock she wears a shade hat of gray straw trimmed with green mousseline and chenille cord. Morning dresses of gingham are very simple and are on tailored lines. No frills of organdy on these dresses, but an engaging simplicity makes them very fresh and pleasing for sum mer mornings. This one (1706) itself is inexpensive, but a very handsome hand-embroidered collar gives the simple costume compelling style. The dress is of black and white checked gingham with white pipings and but tons. Look Out for Moths in Summer Months. Be Sure to Put Everything; Tempt ing Away, Including; Fin. RAKE the house with a fine tooth comb before shutting it up for during the vacation weeks, to be sure nothing tempting is left for the moths. It scarcely pays to put away care- iuuy tne lamiiy rurs, iinter coats and dress suits, and leave hanging In a dark closet that old knitted sweater that was not worth the trouble of storing away. In the soft bit of wool moths may breed and attack vour rugs or the felt top of the card- table. The easiest way to put awav every thing safe from moths is to prepare moth-proof closet and tuck every thing in it. Another good way if you do not own a cedar chest is to make a moth-proof trunk and lock away all small woolen things along with the frocks, suits and coats of winter time. You can buv moth proof bags but these cost $1.50 the set and every housewife is saving her one-fifties these days wherever she can. - Moths detest newspaper, so line your trunk well with old newspapers and tie newspapers over the lid when it is closed and locked. Then sprinkle cedar shavings or moth balls among the articles in the trunk and you can go away pretty certain that every thing is safe. A mot:i-proof closet must be light-proof also, for where light seeps in th.rot.gh a crack, moths can get in also. Shut yourself in the closet and see. whether light comes in anywhere through cracks or knot holes. These places must be covered with newspaper, pated on, not tacked on. The keyhole of the' door must be stuffed with cotton rlso. Set on the closet floor and shelves cutis of oil of cedar three cuna will he enough for a large closet. Many Reasons Given by Girls for Buying Fur Coats. Kznensiirr- Garment Purchased by Workers on Installment flan. CHICAGO, June 1 . hear the reasons 19. "Tou should s many working girls give for buying fur coats." re marked a Chicago merchant, referring to the great number of such purchases being made. "One of the commonest is, "Well, if I don't get it now before I get married, I never will afterward.'" The sight of so many handsome furs coming to downtown office build ings has led to the report that girls are buying .them on the installment pln. t No' so in the main, according to inquiry among merchants. The furs that working girls buy on installments, one house prominent in this class says, are mostly of the cheaper grades, averaging in price around several hundred cfollars. Now and then, said the proprietor of this concern, a working girl making a good salary comes in to buy a $400 or $500 fur. Her first payment on a purchase of this size is required to be $150, $200 or perhaps more. She has then four or five months in which to meet the balance. The run. of the stores, however, ask cash in advance. True enough, many have their own installment plan, but LINEN RETURNS TO MARKETS AS SUITINGS FOR SMALL BOYS Substitutes for Crisp Pre-War Material Are Relegated to Background When Big Government Stocks Are Released. st? s TO THE mothers of four or five boys linen comes as a happy in heritance for little suits and play togs. During the war years linen has I been corraled by government for war uses and mothers have had none of it. Now it is available again and fashion is making the most of her favorite summer fabric. Toung. mothers of wee boys have had to dress their treasures since babyhood in gingham, percale and various linen substitutes that had no wonderful f reshness and gloss after ironing. Now they are discovering how charming and satisfactory are the little linen suits and wonder how they ever got along without linen for their small boys. Two very modern, little suits are pic tured. Both come from an authorita tive shop which specializes in chil dren's wear. One is a sailor suit and the jaunty sailor never seems to go this is quite different from the de-J ferred payment system usually asso elated with real estate. These deferred, payments are "be fore" rather than "after" getting the goods. . The working girl who sighs for a handsome fur can go to a num ber of the big mercantile houses and select the coat she likes, make an in itial payment and have it laid away while she is completing a series of regular installments. When she has made the last she gets the coat. Many of the' expensive fur coats worn by working girls are bought by girls who live at home with their parents, it Is reported by furriers, and they add that frequently assistance is given from father's pocketbook. While "now or never" may be the reason that leads many young women on a salary to a fur coat, some mer chants say that the high prices "of other kinds of coats is a very import ant factor in these purchases. New Linen Lingerie Now Is Latest Fad. Some Are Exceedingly Krlvolous Affairs With Lace Insertions. ONE of the big New York news papers recently had a fashion page all about the new lingerie. Do you remember that- n.onths ago be fore Christmas the coming favor of linen underthings -and the lovely linen garments all made by hand that French women are preferring to silk was discussed? If you started in then to make some dainty l'nen undies by hknd you realize now that you are completely up to the Paris moment, for linen "pretties" are being dis played prominently in Manhattan shops that make a specialty or fine underwear. Some of the linen undies are ex ceedingly frivolous affairs, all inset with lace insertion and butterfly me dallions and lavishly ' trimmed with hand embroidery and lace edging. To Remove First Signs of Old Age "The infallible first sign of age Is the sagging cheek muscles." says Mme. Cava lier!, whose fame as a beauty culturist Is scarcely leas than that aa a songstress. "These are more difficult and serious to treat than wrinkles." tthe continues. "The sagging muscles Indicate they have grown too weak to remain In place; they must be assisted, strenghthened." Tha best way to strengthen them Is by bathing the face In a simple loflon made by dissolving an ounce of pure powdered saxollte in a half pint of witch haael. Thia creates a freer circulation to the parts, besides causing muscles and skin to contract. Saxollte. procurable at every drugstore, has long been known by com plexion specialists to possess remarkable tonic and astringent properties, valuable in treating flabby tissue and wrinkles. Adv. Beautiful Women of Society, during the past seventy years have relied upon it for their distin- VfiuUhed appearance. The Jo(t, refined, pearly tT l. ; . t t l. , wiiuc complexion it renders instantly, is always the source of flattering comment. S Tl t f- ' ii r" -ww! .-II i v:l sSB V ' . 4 - S s I icy MA - - " AW; out of fashion.. It is too perfectly suited to the small boy's needs. The pictured suit is of dark blue linen w oraia ana emoroiaerea tons on the breeches and a big black silk necktie adds the final note of correctness. In no other fabric would the lines of this little sailor costume be so smart, or its crisp freshness so engaging. The second suit is a new combina tion of tunic and breeches, the tunic imitating the sailor style in collar, necktie and sleeve while at -its edge is a turned tip hem with scalloped top that is outlined in white braid and buttons. This pretty little costume is of light brown linen and the tie is of darker brown taffeta silk. Two things are important in these, suits the crisp creasing of the short breeches and the handsome material and size of the silk necktie. the tailored style and one thinks these are really lovelier in their sim plicity and distinction. The linen se lected is the sheer handkerchief weave, soft as silk when crumpled in the hand or under a corset. But linen is linen, and the fine hand kerchief kind launders as beautifully and satisfactorily as table damask does. Some of these underthings are delicately tinted. A set of night gown, chemise and pantaloon is of pale pink linen trimmed only with tiny hand FRECKLES Don't Hide Them - With ' a Vein Re move Them With Othlne Double Strength.. This preparation for the removal of freckles is usually so successful in removing freckles and giving a clear, beautiful complexion that it is sold under guarantee to refund the money if it fails. . Don't hide your freckles under a veil;- get an ounce of Othlne and re move them. Even the first few appli cations should show a wonderful im provement, some of. the lighter freck les vanishing entirely. Be sure to ask the druggist for the double strength Othine; it is this that is sold on the rAoney-back guarantee. Adv. Alkali in Soap Bad for the Hair Soap should be used very carefully if you want to keep your hair look ing its best. Most soaps and pre pared shampoos contain too much alkali. This dries, the scalp.' makes the hair brittle and ruins it. The best thing for steady use is Mulsificd cocoanut oil shampoo, which is pure and greaseless, and is better than anything else you can use. One or two tcaspoonfuls will cleanse the hair and scaip thoroughly. Sim ply moisten the hair with water and rub it in. It mattes an abundance of rich, creamy lather, which rinses out easily, removing every particle of dust, dirt, dandruff and excessive oil. The hair dries quickly and evenly, and it leaves the scalp soft and the hair fine and silky, bright, lustrous, fluffy and easy, to manage. You can get Mulsified cocoanut oil shampoo at any pharmacy. It's very cheap, and a few ounces will supply every member of the family for months. Adv. A Simple Way. to Remove Dandruff There is one sure way. that has never failed to remove dandruff at once, and that is to dissolve it, then you destroy it entirely. To do this, just get about four ounces of plain, common liquid arvon from any drug store (this is all you will need), ap ply it at night when retiring: use enough to moisten the scalp and rub it In gently with the finger tips. . By morning most, if not all, of your dandruff will be gone, and three or four more applications will completely dissolve and entirely destroy every single sign and trace of it, no matter how much dandruff you may have. You will find all itchtng and dig ging of the scalp will stop Instantly, and your hair will be fluffy, lustrous, glossy, silky and soft . and. lpok and feel a hundred times better. Adv. Beauty Secrets Revealed. Anna 0- Nilsson the Popular Actress Tells How To Instantly Have a Beautiful Rosy-'White Skin-and Complexion. --r r if ' A y : -:-v:-yk MISS A M A New York "The secret of bauty Is the proper care of the skin." says Miss Niisson. the popular Metro alar. "It only requires a few moments" time and anyone la more thn paid for the little effort it taken. In the first place the skin thouM be kept scrupulously clean. Uao a pood cleanstns cream (l.it-ka cold cream I have found to be the best, follow this by bathins the face with warm water then rinse with cold water and dry thoroushly with a coarse towel. After this process sclfct a beauti fier which in addition to bcinir a benuti fier has a healing effct-t on the skin. The very best I have found for this purpose is derwlllo. as it instantly beautifies the com plexion and its continued use makes the results permanent." Derwillo takes the place of face powder, as it stays on better and Is wonderful for a shiny nose, oily, dark, sallow pkin. freckles, tan. wriukit-s and "other facial blemishes. Just make thin test: Put derwillo on one side of your face, then look In your mirror anil compare It with the other aid1 you will need no further argument to.convinoe you -that nnthtfia: beautifies like derwillo. It Other garments are In what is called tucks and the narrowest Irish cro chet edging. Very smart is a tailored set in orchid linan with hemstitching done in black, and tiny bowknots of black velvet ribbon. Review of Kronen lrat. Exchange, recent discussion in the press A gave Charles Tellier, Frenchman, the credit for the invention of the cold storage process. While it is true that he perfected the system and made it commercially practicable, lie had a number of forerunners in the Indus try. . Fifty-five years ago the first refrigerated meat arrived in Kngland. ev Hair After HAIR GROWN ON MR. BRITTAIN'S BALD HEAD BY INDIANS' MYSTERIOUS HAIR GROWER ISy bead at th top and back iraa absolutely bald. The ifalp wii shiny. An expert said that as he thought the hair roota wer xtinet, and there waa no hope of mr erer bavin? a ne hair growth. Tet now, at an act oyer 60, I have a luxuriant growth, of aoft. strong, I ut.tr on a hair I Nn trace of baldness. The pictures ahown bare are from my photographs. Indians' Secret of Hair Growth At ft time when I had become discouraged at trying various hair lotions, touica, apecialiats treatments, etc., I rime serosa, in my travels, a inerofcee Indian "raeairine man vrno hd an jr AiiYi-r that h anitrvmtfi wnnld rmw vnv hai BBsssWMf Although t had but little faith, I gare it a trial. From recent photo. To my amazement a lipt fuzz aoon appeared. It developed, day by day, into a healthy growth, and ero long- my hair waa as prolific as in mj youthful daya. That I was astonished and happy is expressing my state of mind tnildfv. Obviously, the hair roots had not been dead, bat were dormant in the scalp, awaiting the. fertilizing potency of the mysterious pomade. X negotiated for and came into possesion of the principle for preparing thia mrsterious elixir, now called Kotalko. and later had tu I. i f j recipe put into practical form br a chemist. rnotewnen bata. Tnat mj own hair Frowth ws permanent has been amply proved. Many men and women, also children, have reported satisfactory results from Kotalko. How YOU May Grow YOUR Hair - My honest belief is that hair roots rare It die even when the hair falls out through dandruff, fever, I SOLD BY Owl OniK Co.. VYood ard Clark A Co.. A. W.Allen. K. H. BavH. Brook Drug Co.. (ira don A Coehler. Lsae Imvia lrur Co., Mat tliteu Irug Co., K. H. fschvrartz. Htipe, Fow ler. Bverlev. Fabian Ian fctlmy Drurs . irtryrlitf In Ammrtcm or other disorders, l nave brcn told by experts that often when hair falls out the roots become imbedded within the scalp, covered by hard sLin, so that they remain for a time like bulbs or s"di in. a bottle which will grow whan fertilized.' Shampoos (which contain alkalis) and hair lotions which contain alcohol are enemies to the hair, as they dry it, making it brittle. Kotalko contains those elements of nature which giv new vitality to the acalp and hair. PROVE FOR YOURSELF Get a bos ef tha gennine Kotalko at a reliable dmcsist's 300.00 GUARANTEE with each. box. A small testing box ef Kotalko (with, testimonials, otc.) may be obtained by send ing tea cents, sUrer or stamps, to mj address below. JOHN HART BRITTAIN, FIFTH AVENTE TRUSSES A poor fitting truss by not properly holding; rupture is dan gerous and worse than no truss at all. Anyone can sell a truss, but it takes an expert truss fitter to fit one. We specialize in fit ting trusses, guaranteeing satis faction in every instance. The Seeley Spermatic Shield Truss is the best, usually closing the open ing in ten days. Send for illus trated circular and measuring blank. Also AtMlotainsl Snpp,rtrrt. Elatatle Stockists. Snoalder Braces, etc Laue-DavisDrugCo. TRISS KXPEHTS Uei.t. 3. and Tamhill . Our Store V 7 i' 4 t. MLSSO Imparts a youthful appearance and If you would keen your Complexion at its best all the time make derwillo a part of your ;oilet aa you now- do litre powder and note the favorable comments of your friends. Short sleeve are now in voftue. use der willo to beautify your hands and arms and protect them from roughness and ruddiness, which always follows exposure to sun. dust and wind. 'It is guaranteed absolutely harmless on the most delicate skin and will positively not stimulate or produce; a growtli of hair. Give it a thorough trial and you will never be with out it. Accept no substitutes as there is nothing "belter," "Just as good" or "just like it." NOTE Ask your druggist about der willo. and he will tell you -that he has never sold any toilet article which has be come so popular in so short a time. This Is due to the satisfaction it gives. It is guaranteed by every druggist or depart ment store to give complete satisfaction or they will refund your money. If you don't like it take It back. Could anything be fairer? It is sold at all toilet corntern n tills citv. Including th Owl Orug Co. --Adv. The scheme was fairly successful for shipping preserved meats a short dis tance. Ten years later a shipment of carcasses frozen by Harrison's method was sent to Kngland from Melbourne, but the meat was found to be spoiled. At this time Tellier was working on his method of freez ing foodstuffs by the use of two chemicals, methylic ether and trim ethylamine. In 1876 he built the rc- frigerator ship La Frigorifique. which carried a cargo of frozen beef between Rouen. France, and La Plata. The first consignment was the beginning of what has developed into a world wide industry. By 1877 there was a great influx into London of American meat preserved by cold. owth excessive dryness For women' t kair. Station F, New York City FIFTH AVENUE Sts.. Portland, Oregon Closed Suadays s A