G
TIIE SUNDAY OliEGONIAN, PORTLAND, JANUARY 18, 1920
Tin umg to 2Mfia Jbr
- I , - How to Make the Charm- A-n -
SfTf- ing Coats and Trousers '"-".'-vM-H-WEgjir
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Trousers. Worn HVfifrS&'ne?20-
BT ETHEL THURSTON.
IN the year of our Lord 1920 we
hear much of the achievements of
women. Even, the 4omb-throwlng
bolshevlki take a back seat on the
tenth page of the dally papers while
"th spotlight" of the l-lght-hand col
umn of the first page exploits the fact
that a woman has been elected to
parliament or accomplished some
other wondruus thing.
And yet, 2650 years before the birth
of Christ, a woman and an empress of
the Celestial kingdom invented the
loom and that in China, where we
regarded femininity as anything but
emancipated till the Chinese republic
gave women the vote long before cer--tain
states of the freest country in
the world passed the suffrage fran
chise. This inventive empress was Si-Ling, 1
wife of the- renowned Emperor
lluang-tl. Moreover, she began the
cultivation of the mulberry tree and
the growing of silk worms, which in
the ages since have made China the
mother of silks.
It may also be scmarked that an'
other woman many years afterwards
Introduced the cultivation of silk
worms and also the tea plant in the
colony of South Carolina. Her naiWoj
was Eliza Pinckney and she was the
mother of General Charles Cotesworth
Pinckney, who fought in the Ameri
can revolution. Indigo was also first
planted in South Carolina by Eliza
Pinckney when she was Eliza Lucas,
a girl of 16, and under her instruc
tions the industry reached a point
whoro $5,000,000 worth of indigo was
shipped from the port of Charleston
to Eur&pe and Asia to be manufac
. tured into dyes. Much of this indigo
found its way to China to be used in
dying the silk fabrics made possible
y the invention of thi almond-eyed
Si-Ling, who had inspired the Chinese
to the weaving of gorgeous silks dyed
in the beautiful vegetable dyes with
which -the early Chinese experi
merited and brought to. a marveloul
perfection and range of color.
Eventually social caste was indi
cated in China by color. During the
Chow dynasty this emperor wore yel
low to signify his celestial descent
and the radiance of the un. to which
his Imperial presence was likened; the
nobility wore light or dark red; the
common people white, and wervnnts
and slaves dark btown. These distinc
tion wtrij sUiilly; adherejl tfi il.uring
the Tong and Sung dynasties, but dur
ing the Kylng, Lioa and Tuan dynas
ties the colors were changed and dif
ferent flowers and designs employed
to mark the caste.
The clothes of. these periods were
long, loose flowing garments consist
ing of an upper short ,-walsted section
and a lower long skirt. The skirts
were pleated onto the waist. Women
wore extremely long skirts embroid
ered with lotus, sacred lilies, roses or
peonies. From the waists hung
streamers of silk from which dangled
tiny gold bells that made a tinkling
sweet sound as the wearer moved.
When the Manchus conquered the
Chinese, during the Ching dynasty.
they forced them to adopt the Man-
churian caress and the Chinese costume
of today to an adaptation of the Man-
cnu- ana umnese. xne cntnese men
obeyed the edict and changed the
tyle of their clothes. anJ held that
their women and children should
wear the Chinese dress.
Hung Zung Zeu was the mightiest
Chinese statesman, and Ching Tu T'so,
the Manchurian conqueror, gave him
high office. Through Hong Zung Zen's
nfluence the women and children
were permitted to cling to the Chi
nese costume. However, when death
released a Chinese from the rule of
the Manchu emperor, he was laid out
in the garments of the ancient Chi
nese. . t
The Manchu women dressed like the
men and It is doubtless due to that
Influence that the Chinese costume
of today, consisting of trousers and
the straight kimono, fastened to the
left side, Is the accepted dress of the
Chinese women. The comfort of this
costume has invaded the boudoirs of
Europe and America,
The Chinese trousers and coats are
capable of the most picturesque In
terpretations and may be fashioned
or Drocade in combination with plain
coiorea satin, creoo de chine or crepe
meteor. They may also be reproduced
In varied tcr.es of the same fabric
The Chinese garments are' easily
cut. Their charm and beauty lies In
the color combinations employed. The
trousers are not difficult to make.
"Five feet" of cloth or one and two
thirds yards are required for a woman
of medium height. To make a pair
of Chinese trousers, fold your goods
lengthwise and cut in two pieces as
indicate In the -pattern lines for
i-ulting' out Chinese ttouocis. Sew
oil tb. dotted tinea and attach to a
waistband as shown In the sketch
These trousers are most effective
when bordered with a contrasting
color, either matching- the border of
the characteristic Chinese closing of
the kimono, or the kimono if that is
made of a different color from the
trousers.
The patterns of the kimono are
quite easy to follow, and unlike the
usual kimono blouse employed for our
western dresses, are cut on .the
straight of the goods, both back and
front. The width of your material
will govern whether you put a seam
down the center front and back.
The directions for cutting- a kimono
are given by a Chinese lady as fol
lows: "Tak9 eight feet of cloth, fold
one end two and one-half feet long
and cut a piece of the kimono like
Fig. 1. Fold the material again and
cut another- piece Just like It. When
these pieces are unfolded they look
like Fig. 3. Another piece for the
lapped side is needed and that will be
shaped like Fig. 2.
First sew the backs together, then
sew Fig. 2 on the left front. Next ew
the sides together. Including sleeves.
Fig. shows the appearance of the
finished garment. Fig. 5 Indicates the
fastenings, which may consist ot braid
loops and fancy buttons, or If you
iwlbb to be consistent an adhera to
Chinese fastenings, cut one-half Inch
strips of your material on the bias.
Fold these strips four times until you
have a narrow tape. This tape may
then be knotted or rolled into buttons
and loops of graceful design.
The fastening may be made ex
tremely ornamental by accenting- It
with sold, silver or silk tassels, that
may be bought ready made or fash
ioned from metal or eilk fringe. To
make a tassel, cut a piece of crino
line or buckram two Inches deep by
three Inches long. Cover this with
silk or velvet in any shade desired.
Then place over this another piece of
silk or velvet, allowing the first color
to show a little above it. Next sew
20,000 PORTLAND
INTO DAY
Women Workers as "Well as Men
Contlfiud From Flrt Pge.
the day resemble Duey nives oi in
dustry, the corriaors ai nijui
completely deserted, for here again
are women woraers, um juiiuno.
She is almost a development of the
late war, but has apparently come to
Eiav. ior ut:r r K.
neigni.i mi.w.
the criterion mat wm serve iu
holii anv oositlon. These women.
hard workers, do not usuauy aopi
this means of making a livelihood
through choice, but find that they
can do better In making the neces
sary living expenses by working at
night. "
In the corriaors or many oi me
larger office buildings, as well as in
many of the manufacturing plants of
the city is .to be found the night
watchman, generally an old and trust
ed employe grown gray in tne serv
ice and not fitted lor tne more ardu
ous daylight tasks. Loyal to the
core these devoted old fellows would
lay down their lives to guard theirj
employers interests.
Commerce Must Move.
Commerce must move, day or night.
and the night time is the most suit
able for the switching ot the iniium
erable freight and passenger cars
that arrive in Portland's commodious
terminals. Trains, whether freight
or passenger, must be kept moving,
and the railways keep a goodly nnni-ber-trf
. their employes on the Job dur
ing the hours of darkness. Not only
are the ty. itvhmea and traiu trews
ZypicaZ.Chznese KzmQzzzKicl2Zzf. Embroidered.. In
Over two thousand years ago a .Chinese woman invented the
loom, and it was another woman who introduced the cultivation of
silk worms in South Carolina. This article descrihes the wonderful
clothes worn by Chinese women and how they dress like men.
across the lower edge a strip of
fringe, letting the top of the fringe I
overlap the second piece of material.
Now fold the crinoline and sew It to
gether, overlapping It about one inch,
making a round or flat tassel.
On a kimono of silver and blue bro
caded faille silk, silver tassels were
mounted. The first covering of the
RESIDENTS TURN NIGHT
SERVING CIVILIZATION'S NEEDS
Find It Necessary to Serve People by
When Others Are Asleep.
on duty, but there are the checkers,
repairmen, car cleaners, telegraph
operators, roundhouse crews, dis
patchers and trackmen as well as
many other classes of workers. Night
is the time ef least congestion and It
is possible to make better dispatch
in moving the traffic, so all efforts
, . ;
it Dy wur&ing
. mmnttv nt this time
Il.J,. ,' :
River traffic also moves at night.
The bridges are held closed as much
as possible during the daytime on ac
count of the necessary arrangements
for handling trans-river city traffic.
so at night the bridge tenders find It
imperative to make many swings or
elevations of their draw spans. On
the river there are the crews of the
tugs and freight steamers, as well
as the ocean vessels that make this
a port of call.
. Klafct Cocsti Welcomed.
The hotels are prepared to care for
their arriving guest, no matter what
hour of the 24 he comes. Th-W necessi
tates clerks, bellboys, porters and
maids jHst as in the day, and in the
majority of hostelrles there is a large
ehlft on duty at night furbishing up
for the next day. In the restaurants
of the cjty a shifty of chefs ply their
warm pfofesbion right through so as
to have their pastries and bakery
roods as well as the base work for
the iiot qay's menu in rendincss. In
the ble bakeries of tne ! .in: baker
works mostly at n!"'..'. v W y-iWi
crinoline was sapphire blue veyret.
and the next Jade green satin, then
silver fringe was attached.
The sleeves and fastening were out
lined with silver galloon and this ex
quisite kimono was worn with Jade
green satin trousers bordered with
blue, eilver and green to match the
color sequeace of the tassels.
Magenta and eilver brocade com-
Accomplishing Their Daily Tasks
the fresh bread ready for delivery the
first thing the following day.
Take your auto to the garage and
when you get it the next morning tt
has been washed, polished and neces
sary adjustments and repairs made.
This again requires the services of a
goodly detachment of skilled men.
When you drive out In the early
morning you notice that the city
-seems fresh and clean, but did you
ever stop to consider that this fresh
ening up of the streets and flushing
them has again taken a number of
men who have worked all night that
you may have a spotless town to soil
again.
Then tho girl has been at the
switchboard at the telephone ex
change all the long night through. In
an emergency did you ever find that
central was not on the Job, night or
day? And the messenger boy and the
teleg"raph company, the nervous sys
tem of the modern national body.
functioning night and day also. The
mails, clerks and drivers, sorting and
carrying the arriving and depaj-ting
letters and parcels ail night so that
they will get early expedition the en
suing day. The hospitals, nurses and
doctors always prepared to take care
of the most serious case when the
ambulance delivers them in an emer
gency.
The firemen, some of them snatch
some sleep during their night tour
of duty, it is true, but they are al
will s ready to et to the scene of
danger, no matter what the weather
or conditions, ann risk thoir verv
of life u.uJ property,
SUA: snd szl ver
bines beautifully with . green-blue
trousers to produce a picturesque
Chinese costume, and the lighter pas
tel shades of plain ground crepe de
chine satia and meteor develop ex
quisite .Chinese costumes. The vivid
shades or black combined with gold
and eilver are more in keeping with
the spirit of the orient.
For summer wear borders of chinta
In Chinese design may be effectively
mounted on cotton crepe. A design
combining rose, old blue and black Is
especially effective on t"ay crepe.
The Chinese costumes illustrated
display tho loveliness of Chinese
metal ana suk emui umti j -
with high luster satin
Even tho refuse of the household has
disappeared as by a miracle, the gar
bage man has taken It to the disposal .
area during the night. The taxi driver
hag kept vigil near his stand ready to
rush where called, and tho hotel birs
driver has met all the trains and eeen
that the city's guerfts have arrived
safely at their places of rest for the
remainder of tho night.
Mills and Factories Never Cease.
In tho huge flour mills that line the
river's banks the busy millers have
been speeding their plants the long
night through in their efforts to feed
a starving world. Out in several other
nearby localities the kim tenders at
the brick and tile plants have stood
by their fires the long night that
their heats would not be wasted. The
streetcar crews of the owl service
have been running their regular half-
hour services and taking the belated
wayfarer to his comfortable home.
And all this time the light and
power hands have been standing by
their turbines, generating sets or
transformers and watching that the
sleeping city received its necessary
amount of light and power so essen
tial to its safety and life. In the
heating stations the firemen and en
gineers have seen that the life and
comfort giving energy reached the
mains for distribution and in some of
the drug 6tores the night clerk has
been ready to serve an emergency
call. Then, the next morning, when
Mr. Portland and his family awake
they find, fresh and crisp on their
front porch, the morning paper. Dur
ing the night this has taken the serv
ices of several'hundred men who work
so that the world may know what
has haptrened the day before.
Oh. it's a great life, this night work
it calls for a queer makeup in a
man, but once get him in the swine
and he seldom breaks anav from it.
liraauauy he gets in ths notion that
he must labpr at abnormal times, and
j then he ia a ewu
4