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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Jan. 18, 1920)
G TIIE SUNDAY OliEGONIAN, PORTLAND, JANUARY 18, 1920 Tin umg to 2Mfia Jbr - I , - How to Make the Charm- A-n - SfTf- ing Coats and Trousers '"-".'-vM-H-WEgjir .'"' V - ' Now Elected to Fashion- M TrP - . '?;::v:.- able (and Artistic)-Pop- .. " fUSlll v V ' ' ?V vr p I'lK, 7 ..J . C;- . -JfV cutting of a CAinf A W. - Xig tnphf X tr ' ' t . "s - - v . fY$?$&rtvi i " I 1 - j- ?4 f , -s , : ' -. I - . it- . N N ' ' " " - - . i i9 0 I t' i 'wf " ":- " " -A v . y . ? x -.. i rattem'ZxnejTfdr earring our.7iiaese. Trousers. Worn HVfifrS&'ne?20- BT ETHEL THURSTON. IN the year of our Lord 1920 we hear much of the achievements of women. Even, the 4omb-throwlng bolshevlki take a back seat on the tenth page of the dally papers while "th spotlight" of the l-lght-hand col umn of the first page exploits the fact that a woman has been elected to parliament or accomplished some other wondruus thing. And yet, 2650 years before the birth of Christ, a woman and an empress of the Celestial kingdom invented the loom and that in China, where we regarded femininity as anything but emancipated till the Chinese republic gave women the vote long before cer--tain states of the freest country in the world passed the suffrage fran chise. This inventive empress was Si-Ling, 1 wife of the- renowned Emperor lluang-tl. Moreover, she began the cultivation of the mulberry tree and the growing of silk worms, which in the ages since have made China the mother of silks. It may also be scmarked that an' other woman many years afterwards Introduced the cultivation of silk worms and also the tea plant in the colony of South Carolina. Her naiWoj was Eliza Pinckney and she was the mother of General Charles Cotesworth Pinckney, who fought in the Ameri can revolution. Indigo was also first planted in South Carolina by Eliza Pinckney when she was Eliza Lucas, a girl of 16, and under her instruc tions the industry reached a point whoro $5,000,000 worth of indigo was shipped from the port of Charleston to Eur&pe and Asia to be manufac . tured into dyes. Much of this indigo found its way to China to be used in dying the silk fabrics made possible y the invention of thi almond-eyed Si-Ling, who had inspired the Chinese to the weaving of gorgeous silks dyed in the beautiful vegetable dyes with which -the early Chinese experi merited and brought to. a marveloul perfection and range of color. Eventually social caste was indi cated in China by color. During the Chow dynasty this emperor wore yel low to signify his celestial descent and the radiance of the un. to which his Imperial presence was likened; the nobility wore light or dark red; the common people white, and wervnnts and slaves dark btown. These distinc tion wtrij sUiilly; adherejl tfi il.uring the Tong and Sung dynasties, but dur ing the Kylng, Lioa and Tuan dynas ties the colors were changed and dif ferent flowers and designs employed to mark the caste. The clothes of. these periods were long, loose flowing garments consist ing of an upper short ,-walsted section and a lower long skirt. The skirts were pleated onto the waist. Women wore extremely long skirts embroid ered with lotus, sacred lilies, roses or peonies. From the waists hung streamers of silk from which dangled tiny gold bells that made a tinkling sweet sound as the wearer moved. When the Manchus conquered the Chinese, during the Ching dynasty. they forced them to adopt the Man- churian caress and the Chinese costume of today to an adaptation of the Man- cnu- ana umnese. xne cntnese men obeyed the edict and changed the tyle of their clothes. anJ held that their women and children should wear the Chinese dress. Hung Zung Zeu was the mightiest Chinese statesman, and Ching Tu T'so, the Manchurian conqueror, gave him high office. Through Hong Zung Zen's nfluence the women and children were permitted to cling to the Chi nese costume. However, when death released a Chinese from the rule of the Manchu emperor, he was laid out in the garments of the ancient Chi nese. . t The Manchu women dressed like the men and It is doubtless due to that Influence that the Chinese costume of today, consisting of trousers and the straight kimono, fastened to the left side, Is the accepted dress of the Chinese women. The comfort of this costume has invaded the boudoirs of Europe and America, The Chinese trousers and coats are capable of the most picturesque In terpretations and may be fashioned or Drocade in combination with plain coiorea satin, creoo de chine or crepe meteor. They may also be reproduced In varied tcr.es of the same fabric The Chinese garments are' easily cut. Their charm and beauty lies In the color combinations employed. The trousers are not difficult to make. "Five feet" of cloth or one and two thirds yards are required for a woman of medium height. To make a pair of Chinese trousers, fold your goods lengthwise and cut in two pieces as indicate In the -pattern lines for i-ulting' out Chinese ttouocis. Sew oil tb. dotted tinea and attach to a waistband as shown In the sketch These trousers are most effective when bordered with a contrasting color, either matching- the border of the characteristic Chinese closing of the kimono, or the kimono if that is made of a different color from the trousers. The patterns of the kimono are quite easy to follow, and unlike the usual kimono blouse employed for our western dresses, are cut on .the straight of the goods, both back and front. The width of your material will govern whether you put a seam down the center front and back. The directions for cutting- a kimono are given by a Chinese lady as fol lows: "Tak9 eight feet of cloth, fold one end two and one-half feet long and cut a piece of the kimono like Fig. 1. Fold the material again and cut another- piece Just like It. When these pieces are unfolded they look like Fig. 3. Another piece for the lapped side is needed and that will be shaped like Fig. 2. First sew the backs together, then sew Fig. 2 on the left front. Next ew the sides together. Including sleeves. Fig. shows the appearance of the finished garment. Fig. 5 Indicates the fastenings, which may consist ot braid loops and fancy buttons, or If you iwlbb to be consistent an adhera to Chinese fastenings, cut one-half Inch strips of your material on the bias. Fold these strips four times until you have a narrow tape. This tape may then be knotted or rolled into buttons and loops of graceful design. The fastening may be made ex tremely ornamental by accenting- It with sold, silver or silk tassels, that may be bought ready made or fash ioned from metal or eilk fringe. To make a tassel, cut a piece of crino line or buckram two Inches deep by three Inches long. Cover this with silk or velvet in any shade desired. Then place over this another piece of silk or velvet, allowing the first color to show a little above it. Next sew 20,000 PORTLAND INTO DAY Women Workers as "Well as Men Contlfiud From Flrt Pge. the day resemble Duey nives oi in dustry, the corriaors ai nijui completely deserted, for here again are women woraers, um juiiuno. She is almost a development of the late war, but has apparently come to Eiav. ior ut:r r K. neigni.i mi.w. the criterion mat wm serve iu holii anv oositlon. These women. hard workers, do not usuauy aopi this means of making a livelihood through choice, but find that they can do better In making the neces sary living expenses by working at night. " In the corriaors or many oi me larger office buildings, as well as in many of the manufacturing plants of the city is .to be found the night watchman, generally an old and trust ed employe grown gray in tne serv ice and not fitted lor tne more ardu ous daylight tasks. Loyal to the core these devoted old fellows would lay down their lives to guard theirj employers interests. Commerce Must Move. Commerce must move, day or night. and the night time is the most suit able for the switching ot the iniium erable freight and passenger cars that arrive in Portland's commodious terminals. Trains, whether freight or passenger, must be kept moving, and the railways keep a goodly nnni-ber-trf . their employes on the Job dur ing the hours of darkness. Not only are the ty. itvhmea and traiu trews ZypicaZ.Chznese KzmQzzzKicl2Zzf. Embroidered.. In Over two thousand years ago a .Chinese woman invented the loom, and it was another woman who introduced the cultivation of silk worms in South Carolina. This article descrihes the wonderful clothes worn by Chinese women and how they dress like men. across the lower edge a strip of fringe, letting the top of the fringe I overlap the second piece of material. Now fold the crinoline and sew It to gether, overlapping It about one inch, making a round or flat tassel. On a kimono of silver and blue bro caded faille silk, silver tassels were mounted. The first covering of the RESIDENTS TURN NIGHT SERVING CIVILIZATION'S NEEDS Find It Necessary to Serve People by When Others Are Asleep. on duty, but there are the checkers, repairmen, car cleaners, telegraph operators, roundhouse crews, dis patchers and trackmen as well as many other classes of workers. Night is the time ef least congestion and It is possible to make better dispatch in moving the traffic, so all efforts , . ; it Dy wur&ing . mmnttv nt this time Il.J,. ,' : River traffic also moves at night. The bridges are held closed as much as possible during the daytime on ac count of the necessary arrangements for handling trans-river city traffic. so at night the bridge tenders find It imperative to make many swings or elevations of their draw spans. On the river there are the crews of the tugs and freight steamers, as well as the ocean vessels that make this a port of call. . Klafct Cocsti Welcomed. The hotels are prepared to care for their arriving guest, no matter what hour of the 24 he comes. Th-W necessi tates clerks, bellboys, porters and maids jHst as in the day, and in the majority of hostelrles there is a large ehlft on duty at night furbishing up for the next day. In the restaurants of the cjty a shifty of chefs ply their warm pfofesbion right through so as to have their pastries and bakery roods as well as the base work for the iiot qay's menu in rendincss. In the ble bakeries of tne ! .in: baker works mostly at n!"'..'. v W y-iWi crinoline was sapphire blue veyret. and the next Jade green satin, then silver fringe was attached. The sleeves and fastening were out lined with silver galloon and this ex quisite kimono was worn with Jade green satin trousers bordered with blue, eilver and green to match the color sequeace of the tassels. Magenta and eilver brocade com- Accomplishing Their Daily Tasks the fresh bread ready for delivery the first thing the following day. Take your auto to the garage and when you get it the next morning tt has been washed, polished and neces sary adjustments and repairs made. This again requires the services of a goodly detachment of skilled men. When you drive out In the early morning you notice that the city -seems fresh and clean, but did you ever stop to consider that this fresh ening up of the streets and flushing them has again taken a number of men who have worked all night that you may have a spotless town to soil again. Then tho girl has been at the switchboard at the telephone ex change all the long night through. In an emergency did you ever find that central was not on the Job, night or day? And the messenger boy and the teleg"raph company, the nervous sys tem of the modern national body. functioning night and day also. The mails, clerks and drivers, sorting and carrying the arriving and depaj-ting letters and parcels ail night so that they will get early expedition the en suing day. The hospitals, nurses and doctors always prepared to take care of the most serious case when the ambulance delivers them in an emer gency. The firemen, some of them snatch some sleep during their night tour of duty, it is true, but they are al will s ready to et to the scene of danger, no matter what the weather or conditions, ann risk thoir verv of life u.uJ property, SUA: snd szl ver bines beautifully with . green-blue trousers to produce a picturesque Chinese costume, and the lighter pas tel shades of plain ground crepe de chine satia and meteor develop ex quisite .Chinese costumes. The vivid shades or black combined with gold and eilver are more in keeping with the spirit of the orient. For summer wear borders of chinta In Chinese design may be effectively mounted on cotton crepe. A design combining rose, old blue and black Is especially effective on t"ay crepe. The Chinese costumes illustrated display tho loveliness of Chinese metal ana suk emui umti j - with high luster satin Even tho refuse of the household has disappeared as by a miracle, the gar bage man has taken It to the disposal . area during the night. The taxi driver hag kept vigil near his stand ready to rush where called, and tho hotel birs driver has met all the trains and eeen that the city's guerfts have arrived safely at their places of rest for the remainder of tho night. Mills and Factories Never Cease. In tho huge flour mills that line the river's banks the busy millers have been speeding their plants the long night through in their efforts to feed a starving world. Out in several other nearby localities the kim tenders at the brick and tile plants have stood by their fires the long night that their heats would not be wasted. The streetcar crews of the owl service have been running their regular half- hour services and taking the belated wayfarer to his comfortable home. And all this time the light and power hands have been standing by their turbines, generating sets or transformers and watching that the sleeping city received its necessary amount of light and power so essen tial to its safety and life. In the heating stations the firemen and en gineers have seen that the life and comfort giving energy reached the mains for distribution and in some of the drug 6tores the night clerk has been ready to serve an emergency call. Then, the next morning, when Mr. Portland and his family awake they find, fresh and crisp on their front porch, the morning paper. Dur ing the night this has taken the serv ices of several'hundred men who work so that the world may know what has haptrened the day before. Oh. it's a great life, this night work it calls for a queer makeup in a man, but once get him in the swine and he seldom breaks anav from it. liraauauy he gets in ths notion that he must labpr at abnormal times, and j then he ia a ewu 4