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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (June 30, 1918)
THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, JUNE SO, 1918, 7 LATEST SKIRT AND COAT COSTUME FOR AFTERNOON WEAR MARKED WITH SIMPLICITY Vivid Hoes in Combination With Rich Fabrics Produce a Distinctive and Arresting Costume Way to Solid Blue in Compliance With War Conservation. -Bright Colors Give II v"V' .-: 7 - v' V '' C' iito-- ' . j ? - i I f ' ' ' V?. 4 i VSe- - tr ev " l-y CY if I p 'f -: - j I I . I- I ! :" I ' 0 1 j G -0 If-' , - iV I '' ' 'if' ' r . L - i 7 yi ) c .'-:y f ' - ; MMfV.- ; 5) I- - t - t,1' a . r i V ' ' j r I i I r 0 ivvh'i g vl , Tj .' ft A j f V S I "Ilk l! X 'j i 7 PfcC DESPITE the extreme simplicity of line, there is exceeding smartness in this coat and skirt costume lor a Summer afternoon. The material is white georgette polka dotted with blue, each dot framed narrowly in darker blue. The straw hat is blue also, and an echoing touch of solid blue is shown in the stock of navy ribbon that passes under crisp turnovers of organdy. Just a straight, belted, but toned tunic and a straight pleated fkirt, you see; hut consider the dis tinction of the whole costume! White silk mull run into the tiniest of kand-pin-tucks no lace, no frills; not even a ribbon sash: but could anything be more enchanting or more delight fully cool for a midsummer afternoon? The sash is made of the mull tucked along both edges and is tied in a crisp bow at the back. These "made" sashes of the dress material are much smarter this season than sashes of the hand somest ribbon. Do not overlook the mauve flower caught against the bod Ice at one shoulder it matches' the flowers on her hat. At a recent gathering of the fash ionables of an out-of-town colony where fetes and athletic games for ben efit of war sufferers are a constant oc currence, this attractive costume was worn by a young girl. The sport skirt is of soft, heavy white satin and the sleeveless sweater of cherry-colored silk jersey is worn over a blouse of sheer white organdy. The graceful tarn hat is cherry silk jersey, like the sweater, and both tarn and sweater are emproibered in vari-colored silks. The vivid hues in combination with rich fabrics produce a distinctive and ar resting costume. Auction Bridge By Annie Blanche Shelby. SOME very good advice which It would be to the advantage of play ers generally to follow is con tained in a recent article by a well known Eastern auction authority. It starts with the statement that much of the bidding and other policies adopted by players at the auction table is more or less psychological, influenced as often by one's knowledge of certain characteristics of one's partner and the other players composing the table as by one's special holding. It is a well known fact that players who are ac customed to each other's mode of bid ding and play who know the maxi mum strength a player feels he must have to make a bid, or a rebid, as the case may be, to give an assist, to double, to redouble, etc. and, con versely, what he cannot hold when he takes refuge in a pass can bid their hands much more confidently, and as a rule get much more out of them, than when they play as strangers. To be sure, players who play accord ing to a uniform system, basing their policies as to bidding, etc, upon cer tain prescribed holdings, have greatly the advantage over those who do not, a. line of communication beinj thus es tablished between the partners, the value of which cannot be overestimated. At the same time there is a human side to the game which has at times an important bearing upon one's policies end which should by no means be over looked by one's partner. It is Koster, I think, who was wont to say that the success or failure of a player at. the whist table depended often upon what he had had for his dinner. A careful study, therefore, not only of rules and conventions govern ing the game, but of the players them selves, of what may be spoken of as character analysis, will, if the lessons thereby gained be rightfully applied. often turn to one s advantage. ' tome players' characteristics are eo marked that this knowledge is gained after the play of a comparatively few number of hands. With others they crop out more slowly, but nevertheless much generally may be acquired in this direction in a sirgle sitting, which, at some future time, may stand one in good stead. Some players are by nature bold and aggressive; others are timid and con servative. Some refuse to take even a reasonable risk; others are constantly taking unwarrantable risks. Some are naturally experimental and try a policy "just to see how it will work"; others follow - closely iron-bound rules and lack the initiative,' or fail to recognize situations as they arise, where rules would be more honored in the breach than the observance. It should be need less to say that any knowledge gained of this or a like character concerning any player at a table should enter into the calculations of the other players composing the table, and more or less directly influence their course. Chance Elentent Faaclnaten. Auction may well be spoken of as a combination of whist and poker, the whist element embodying the science of the game the poker element that is, the element of chance adding im mensely to its fascinations and taking It out of the class of iron-clad, rule besaddled games. This Is by no means asserting that in their Inherent prln- iples the two games are in the lightest degree similar. By their very nature this could not be so. The one is entirely a game of bluff: in the other, strictly scientific features pre dominate, and since, unlike poker, every hand must be played to the fin ish, any bluff which a player may have attempted, and up to a certain point perhaps has been apparently success ful, is very apt In the end to turn against the bluffing player and mete out to him the punishment he deserves. Uniform System Important. While, as is known, the knowledge and use of a uniform system of play, as recommended by teachers and all the textbooks on the game, is of the greatest importance indtspensaDie, in fact, to one's success adaptability also is one of the first requisites to tne uniformly successful player. ir, ror Instance, lyou play as partner with a player who has no knowledge of the rules, though adversaries that have, it would be folly to employ a system which would not enlighten your part ner, but would give the adversaries valuable hints which mey couia em ploy against you. In such case a re versal of the rules concealment would be the only sane policy to adopt. You are reduced practically to playing your hand alone; in lieu of a partner and two adversaries, the normal con dition, you play, so to speak, against three adversaries. Make yourseir adaptable, therefore, and employ what ever method seems to promise the best results. Characteristics 'to Be Studied. From the beginning of the play study the other players' characteristics. En deavor to ascertain whether your part ner Is a venturesome or a conservative bidder; whether or not he knows and applies the rules, or whether, knowing them, he plays in utter defiance of them. Know whether the adversary is given to bluff in the hope perhaps try frighten you Into some impossiDie contract: know. If this is so, when to leave him at his bluffing bid that he alone may be the sufferer. Possess yourself as quickly and accurately as nosslble of inferences of this and a kindred character and govern yourself accordingly in your calculations and Play. As declarer, note your partner s tine dummy) hand, and the particular strength on which he raised your bid, or the lack df strength which, in his opinion, demanded a pass. If he has shifted the bid (In spite of it you going back to your own) study the conditions which he considered rendered this Jus- Iflable. If he has doubled, or re doubled, note the particular strength on which this was done. Watch also the cards as they fall from the ad versaries and try to find out what they had to justify a bid. a rebid, a raise, etc.. in the event they have tried any of these measures. As adversary, study not only the dummy hand with reference to the sug gestions as given for declarer, but note also ad get the proper inferences from. he cards as played by the declarer. that you may gauge the particular strength on which his bid was made. Note carefully also the cards played by your partner and try to discover what he held to justify a bid, to rebid. to raise your bid. etc., in case he adopted any of these policies. If one follows this course intelli gently and systematically It will not be long before he will be able to de termine quite accurately the caliber of a player and the particular strength on which he makes a bid, rebids, gives a raise, doubles or redoubles, as the case may be. Also it will become easy to determine what he has not when he announced a pass. A player who has acquired the abillty'thus to gauge the caliber of the other players has for tified himself with a weapon of the greatest Importance one which If Ju diciously employed will often on future occasions work materially to the com blned good. Miss Irwin gives a few useful hints as follows governing a player's re sponsibility in this respect: 'Learn to study all the persons with whom you play. Study your partner and your adversaries. If you know a an is determined to play every hand you can 'force' him much more suc cessfully than If you are playing against a man who Is wise enough to drop and to leave you to play your forcing bid. If you see a player is an inveterate bluffer, call his bluffs. If you realize that, although he knows his rules, he is given to breaking them. Just for this once,' draw your own conclusions accordingly and don't trust him as Implicitly as you would a more conservative player. If your partner Is ultra-conservative, take ah occasional risk yourself just to make a good average. If he Is risky, stick to rock- bottom solidity in your own play. If luck is with you, gamble on it; if it Is against you, never try to force it; limit your losses. Be reliable, be con servative, but don't be wooden." Whist JVot Superseded. Those who are of the opinion that whist, as such, has been entirely su perseded by auction will be surprised to learn that the American Whist League still holds its annual whist congresses. This year's congress is being held at the present time at Lake Placid. The week Just closed was de voted exclusively to whist, a number of players taking part. The first week in July (next week) will be devoted to auction. At this session also a number of enthusiastic players are scheduled to be present. The readeis of this column and the public generally will be interested in earning that, as the result of Mr. Work's unique efforts in connection with auction for the benefit of the Red Cross, approximately $75,000 has been turned over to that organization. This conclusively shows not only that auc tion can boast of as many players as ever, but what is of incalculable im portance that the call of the Red Cross, one of the most appealing of all calls, in whatever form it develops. meets always with generous and hearty response. WHAT SHALL I USE FOR PORTIERES? OFTEN ASKED BY WOMEN IN ARRANGING MODERN HOME Use Glass Is Reply of Experts in Home Building That Is to Say, Substitute French Doors for Portieres Hygienic Value of Light Widely Recognized by Modern Housewives. 1 my FRENCH DOOK3 BLTWttN ROOM AND OiNiN ftOOH A QUESTION that arises more often i than almost any other In home fitting is, "What shall I use for portieres?" The answer must In a large measure depend upon the purpose of the portieres. It may be to prevent draft. It may be for the sake of privacy, or it may be purely and, solely by way of decoration. If the matter of economy does not enter in, the best possible answer is, "Use glass." That Is to say, substitute French doors for portieres. Those made in narrow panels that fold compactly back are the best. Many of the new French doors have the glr-s panes colorless, but opaque, and these do not require the additional expense of inside draperies. They are really the most practical Florentine or ground glass lets in the light, and yet retains the privacy. These doors are being generally installed Instead of the old, solid wood folding doors. The hygienic value of light Is widely recognized. Glass paneled doors are accepted features for use at clothes closets. This Is an excellent Idea. In deec , It is a wonder that glass is not more extensively used for other home purposes. An ice box. for Instance, made almost entirely of glass, would be Ideal. We have within the last year or two arrived at an appreciation of a sense of space In our surroundings. This has been accentuated by the use of French doors or doorless doorways, arches, etc., between adjoining rooms, halls, and so on. Wide areas are delightful. Any thing, consequently, that tends to di minish the apparent size of a room is discouraged. It Is in accordance with this aim to broaden apparent expanse to the full extent that center lights are elimi nated, as they seem to contract the size of the room and also that wall cov erings are made alike in adjoining rooms. When papered In different col ors two medium sized adjoining rooms look smaller than their actual size. The same two, with wall coverings to match, take on the dignity of one really spacious room, it the doors be tween are left open. There Is but little use to recommend French doors, however, to the average home maker, because she has no choice In the matter excepting at rent ing time, when she may make their installation a provision of her lease. The next best thing to having French doors is to do without por tieres and use a few good screens. These are portable objects, that are worth buying for home making. Deco rative possibilities for screens are practically unlimited. Plain, wooden frames, first covered with muslin and then being papered to match the side walls, are good. The same sort of muslin-stretched screen, covered with bril liantly flowered wall paper in intense colors, may be antiqued into a thing of wondrous beauty by a coat of yel lowish shellac. A decorative feature in an up-to-date duplex apartment is the use of oriental rugs as portieres. They are so ar ranged as to seem like wall adorn ments; and, in rooms where pictures are not used and unfigured floor cov erings are employed they are remark ably effective. They are never used in pairs, but are selected the size of the doors they are to cover, or somewhat larger, and are hung without the least fullness upon stout rods, well concealed by ball-bearing rings splendid, well rolling rings that allow the rug curtain to be thrown back readily with one sweep of the hand. Nothing is more annoying than curtain rings that catch on the poles and refuse to slide. The linings are made of figured horsehair in small geometrical pattern neutrally two toned. The furniture in the room described MODERN MILITARY BIRDMEN MUST BE VERSATILE YOUTHS THE vast responsibilities which de volve upon the youthful airman V f rr mi .nrffafill Infantrv at tack can be made on the western front are thus Bet forth by an experienced French aviator: "The time has passed when one could make an improvised attack upon the enemy, relying simply upon superior numbers and the morale of the attack ing troops to gain the victory. "To search out In all their details the defensive works of the enemy (barbed wire entanglements, trenches, block houses), the position of all his batter ies; to locate the trails, railways, muni tion and supply depots, and headquar ters of the commanders such is the work to be performed by the scout plane before every offensive operation. "To direct the firing of all the ar tillery, whose task Is to destroy the barbed-wire entanglements and the trenches: to bombard the batteries and destroy the larger part of them; to set on fire the munition depots within its range; to prevent or render perilous any passing along the roads and rail ways; to delay traffic in the support ing railway stations; to control the de struction of objectives and the efficacy of long-range firing such are the principal tasks of the scout planes dur ing the preparatory period of an at tack. "Moreover, "they assume the enor mous responsibility of the faithful ex ecution of this programme, which is carried out entirely through the inter mediation of their eyes. "Finally, on the day of attack. It is they who, flying at a low altitude over the assaulting waves of the infantry. signal its progress to the superior com mand: It Is they who discover the act ive batteries and reduce them to silence by causing them to come under destruct ive fire; it is they who cause -the dis persion of wagon trains and troop col umns venturing along the roads and trains near the battlefield: it is they who watch for the possible launching of a counterattack, always to be feared, and which they must announce at the right moment to the Infantry and to the commander in charge. "Thanks to the promptness of their reports, sent by radio, the commander is enabled to make his authority felt during the progress of the operation. When in the midst of the hazards of battle the energies of the combatants become scattered, causing confusion and disorder, the scout planes, by the accuracy of their reports, permit the harmonizing and co-ordinating of ef fort necessary to the final victory. "Evidently It Is the observer who must have charge of the mission of reconnaissance, of photography, of ar tillery adjustment or of infantry com munications; but he Is greatly assist ed by the pilot, whose xkill and de cision contribute in no small measure to the successful accomplishment of the aerial task." is of the rugged old English oak. in termingled with some simple walnut pieces. The mirrors are in carved frames. The floors are walnut stained nearly covered with taupe chenille rugs and the walls are of old Ivory with deeper toned woodwork, with a little line of old blue traced at all edges of the wood. The draperies are old blue brocade over ivory-tinted gauze. Where the need of ornament is felt. an expedient that is sometimes resort ed to is the Italian manner of painting a delicate design, either freely or in stencil, on the under side and uprights of the open arch or door frame. An arabesque or vine pattern Is used. The idea is simply to give a touch of color, noticeable really only as one passes through the doorway. This is in lieu of decorative draperies. The pattern is repeated on the beams, if beams there be. A beamed ceiling In "weathered oak" in a brown-papered room I have seen brilliantly rescued from desola tion by having walls recovered with the palest fawn, and beams and wood work ivory-enameled and decorated with a simple vine and leaf pattern in light green with a threadline of egg plant purple at the edge; the floor cov ering of eggplant purple, and daven port and two large chairs covered with hand block-printed linen in rambling floral pattern on an Ivory ground. The casement curtains, on rods and Ivory rings, were of Shantung hemmed with long basting rows oT light green and of eggplant purple thick silk thread. However much portieres In general may be Inveighed against, it some times happens that they are quite in dispensable, even in Summer time. Generally speaking, draperies in a room should accord with the dominant color of the walls, though It is permis sible for them to be stronger in tone. In just the right place, cretonne cur tains are strikingly pleasing. They may be made to match the window lambrequins and side draperies or the slip-covers of one or two arm chairs. Big patterns are at their best if re peated in the scheme. The lining may be of plain, light-colored cotton rep. trimmed with a bit of fancy braid in some color that is conspicuous in tha cretonne figure. If portieres of this sort are not In terlined (and because they are more easily washed thus, they may be left unlined). they should be heavily weighted. A weighting that may be had at notion counters that is suitable to this end is of segments of lead en cased in a white or black cotton cas ing: It is flat no wider than bindinc tape and easily inserted into a hem. Shot is sometimes used for weighting. It is a good plan to encase shot in the same way. for if the shot is put in loosely it is apt to roll together, de feating the intention of having the portieres hang in straight folds. Perfect Politeness. There Is an aged colored woman of Richmond. Va., who has been cook tor many years botn In private families and in boarding houses and she often comments upon the fact, as alleged by her. that quarrels and harsh words are much more frequent in the families than In the boarding houses. Finally, It appears, she obtained a situation in a private family where peace reigned. One day she said to her mist ress : "Excuse me. ma'am, but is this all j-o' family?" "Yes, Martha.", was the response. "Why do you ask?" "Well, nobody would have thought It." was the rejoinder. "They act nice to each other that you would think they whs perfect strangers." WllllF ' 71 Ml lh ow mire these 7 es must Di dns' you never dreamed could be laundered A few years ago, how you dreaded to trust your delicate things to soap and waterl Today, who thinks of sending Georgettes to the cleaner's? or precious laces? or the most expensive sweaters? or delicate hangings? There's abetter way, quicker, much less expensive. You cleansethese things yourself keep them like new with Lux, the modern form of soap. Things you never dreamed could be laundered, you now trust unhesitatingly to the pure, delicate flakes which whisk up into the richest lather and cleanse without rubbing. Without the purity of Lux, delicate and unusual things could not be trusted to even this new way of washing. If water Alone -won't hurt a fabric, then Lux won't. Delicate colors come from the Lux suds as fresh as when new. If the water alone does not cause the color to "run," Lux won't injure it one degree. ' Try Lux yourself. You will be delighted. Your grocer, druggist or department store has Lux. Lever Bros. Co., Cambridge, Mass.