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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (May 12, 1918)
TUE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, MAY 12, 1918. BEAUTIFUL ORANGE FOX SCARF IS LATEST. CREATION IN WOMEN'S SUMMER APPAREL Saf entire of Tiny Girl's Parasol of Posy-Patterned Pink Silk Is Fascinating Affair of Peach-Tinted TaffeU Vith Flower Printing in Pastel Shade Handle of Pink Enamel. I . " ?fJT Him i-, rMry mmm '-. -ViSV- V 'U vJ-vV I M . llir.-'lv--.-1 " , . . fox scarf la i "- ' ' Li . ' rriHS Itaodsom orange I typical of th modish and youthful woman's cholc In fur neckwear for Summer time. Fox Is becomlnc to all aces of women, but orange fox only to yountr women with fresh, fair skin. The scarf pictured is flat and wide, making a very generous shoulder wrap when spread out as it is In the picture. The danallng paw may be fastened to the head, a concealed spring making the Jaws of the animal head clamp firmly on the end of the paw; then the scarf may be thrown open and worn further back on the shoulders. This fetching little wrap of soft gray far Is called a cape-scarf; it Is really straight and long like a scarf, but thrown over the shoulders it suggests a cape. The roll collar adds to the wrap effect and from the ends of the scarf dangle big fur balls. There Is. besides, a big button of fur at the front of the scarf and opposite the button a loop of cord fastens the wrap at the front. Its demure lines and pretty gray color make thia little fummer fur wrap very attractive, particularly worn as In this lastance-wlth a small, smart hat of gray straw with a gray silk floss "shower pompon. Suggestlre of the tiny girl's parasol of posy-patterned pink silk, is this fas cinating affair of peach tinted taffeta with flower printing In pastel shades. A little frill of the silk, doubled over, finishes the edge and makes the para sol as dainty and feminine as Its color ing demands. The handle Is of pink enameled wood with a bracelet loop of broad pink satin ribbon. Handmade Blouses Mode for Spring: Wear. eats Ire Nld at very Medea. Price. It la Urclarrd. SOME of the loveliest blouses of the Spring are entirely band made; and the wonder Is. how these hand-wrought blouses can be sold at the rery modest prices that are asked for them. One model ia pale lavender batiste Is spe cially pretty and dainty. Hand-run tueks decorate front and back; the blouse fastens down a center-front panel, hvnd-hemmed on either side, with tiny pearl buttons and button holes, exquisitely made, and the deep collar "and turned back cuffs are edged with narrow ruffles, also hand-hemmed with minute stitches. Cameo effects (two shades of a given color are very mu-h the thing In printed dress cottons this year. Usually the printing Is In lighter tone on a darker ground, giving the cameo sug gestion, but the patterns may be in scroll or stripe effect, not suggestive of cameoa as one ordinarily under stands the term. The printed cotton foulards In these cameo effects are especially pleasing and will make up into cool. Inexpensive frocks for warm weather wear In the street. Such a frock, with the right sort of hat and parasol is exceedingly good-looking. Waistcoats and reticules to match are the latest whim of Madam Mode. And another whim Is to have both waistcoat and reticule made of very wide, fancy ribbon, the ribbon bag mounted on metal frame or gathered on bracelet hoops. e One of the new dress accessories that women appreciate Is a shield that can be sewed to the armhole through its center. Ordinary shields, caught by a few stitches at the outer corners, are apt to wrinkle and get out of shape, but the new shield, stitched firmly to the armholes, keeps its flatness and Its desirable invisibility under the bodice. And it launders more satisfactorily, too. when left in a blouse that goes to the wash. REFEKitlMS again to the distinc tion between arbitrary conven tions and private conventions, 1 can do no better than quote from Will lam Mill Butler, the compiler and author of The Whist Reference Book." the most comprehensive and ambitious book on the game that was ever writ ten. While this may seem like a bit of ancient history. It la nevertheless In teresting reading and seems Important Just now as showing that few. If any. private conventions hae crept into auction. While It might devoutly be wished thai this Is because of an im . proved condition In the morale of the aversce pUver. it .s doubtless due to the fart that tourname. ts. with the keen competition and exciting trophy playing cmtests which they Involved nave neve' been In roguv in auction, as was the case In whist. Arbitrary conventions Butler defines as "signals to which a meaning Is at tached by agreement, as distinguished from natural inferencea drawn from the fall of the cards." Laxugi f CmtSm X aed. Private conventions he speak of thus: "Private conventions are sig nals er agreements of play privately screed upon and understood only by those employing them Whist, as at present played, with Its conventional 1'ads and signals, haa caused many players to devise new arrangements of the cards fur their own Information, and very often It has been found that teams employed a language of the cards which no one else understood. This aturatly led to a discussion as to whether the use of such arrangements mi permissible. The controversy be. tan early la lt)l and Luted until the executive committee of the American Whist League declared against all pri vate conventions.- Its decision was af firmed by the league at the Fifth Con gress In June. ls5. At the Seventh Congress. Put-In-Bay. 1197. further action was taken emphasising the post, lion of the league and making the em ployment of private conventions a cause for protest In matches. The full text of the rule of play, as amended. Is as follows: "The right of contestants to use any well-known and established method of play, and any original method, not given a secret, prearranged meaning. Is acknowledged: but the American Whist League emphatically disapproves of private conventions, and defines a pri vate convention to be any unusual method of play based upon a prior se cret agreement. It Is the right of a contestant to demand of his opponents an explanation of their system of play st any time, except during the play of the hand, and their duly to give such Information promptly and fully. Any Infraction of this or any other rule of whist etiquette adopted by the Ameri can Whist League shall ie cause for protest, to be followed by such penalty as the tournament committee or umpire may Impose." Q Beetles Oae ef Morals. It would be Interesting to cite the numerous opinions on the subject ex pressed by the various authorities of the day, but space will admit of a few only. The late V. I. Tormey, who waa at all times strenuous In his endeavor to preserve the strict Integrity of the game and whoae enthusiasm regarding It waa so great that he was wont to say,. "Heaven would, not be heaven -to him unless there waa whist playing," expressed himself as follows: "I can-I not help feeling that the question of I private conventions la Indeed a ques-1 tion. not of usage, not of etiquette, but of morals." Theodore Schwars, one of the big players of the day and at one time president of the American Whist L-eague, as also was Mr. Tormey, ex pressed himself in much the same way. He said: "Men of honor, when they play cards with one another, more especially In an Intellectual game like I whist, would scorn to use a lot of pri vate signals for the purpose of gaining I an advantage. C. O. P. Hamilton, one of the best analysts known to the game, spoke as I follows: I do not -believe there Is a whist player In America who will de fend such stultifying and degrading! practice. Suppose, for example, that A-B privately agree that they will re verse the recognised signification of I the convention known as the trump signal. What ts the object of the com pact? Fraud! A contemptible con spiracy, made with the single object of reaping unfair advantage. The success or failure of a damnable cabal has no bearing. It Is no argument in pallia tion of the despicable chicanery to con tend that such Jockeylsm wlU not suc ceed. The marrow of the matter Is that I the secret code is arranged for the sin gle purpose of reaping advantage due to signals Issued ln'such a way that! partner, owing to the private under standing, may Interpret and the adver saries be entrapped thereby. Card Signals Sasae as Wltk Hasds. B. L. Richards,, another .of the big players of the day and an official of I the American Whist League, said: "II can see no difference between signals made with cards and those given by I fingers or leet, ir prompted by the de sire to gain unfair advantages." C. H Coffin, one of the comparatively few whist authorities, who Is auction authority also, spoke as fol-1 lows: "Private conventions are wrong. essentially wrong, from both the moral and legal point of view. They have beta so regarded by all the authorities from Hoyle to Hamilton, confirmed by the accumulated wisdom of whist ex perts for over a hundred years. We must speak by the card, and the sen tence thus spoken must be Intelligible alike to all. subject only to the differ ences in mental capacity." I could keep on Indefinitely with the subject, but enough has been said to show the extreme perniclousr.esa of the practice, and how it was regarded by the majority. No prettier example of the value of the discard could be given than Is shown in the following hand. In this case, however, the discard has nothing to do with the informatory features, since It was made by the declarer. It comes under the caption of "discarding commanding cards" to get out of your partner's Tray and thus avoid blocking his suit: A K J 9 Q J 10 S 6 4 5 I 10 4 Warm Weather Riding Suits Cool and Attractive. Aew Bathing Cap of Rose Colored Rubber Is Sensatlos. " g 5 4 V T 5 A B K J 4 Z KQ 9 8 2 87 2 10 8 75 A K AQ7C532 a A J 6 3 Z, the dealer, calls "no trumps" a somewhat rash proceeding because of his blank suit. Many players will not under any circumstances call "no trumps" if void of a suit, and rarely if holding a singleton. Whether or not A calls "two spades" does not affect Z's position, as he is unusually well pro tected in spades. Some In his case would double; others go on with "no trumps." In this particular case the hand was played at "no trumps." It went as follows: Tricks. A Y B. Z 1 8 10 ia 3 2 4 A 2W A 3 5 K 3v K 4 & Q 2 6 6 44 J 7 2 5 94 10 8 3 7 2 9 8 54 g 8 ' 104 64 9 9 4 7a 74 10 Q 3 J 11 K 4a 7 Aa 12 J4 9 10" A4 IS K4 J Q" Q4 COOL, and attractive riding suits for warm weather wear are of checked English mohair In black and white, the coat made with good flare almost to the knee and snappy patch pockets; and the riding breeches tapering- Into pearl buttoned kneecuffs above pol ished black riding boots. A white silk shirt, opened for coolness at the throat above a black or colored tie, white washable cape gloves and a black straw riding sailor complete a very good looking costume for town or country. Strongly Oriental in suggestion Is a new beaded frock put out by a Fifth- avenue importer. In a window last week this costume created a sensation, but It was so graceful and so well, daring if you like that at least a dozen women registered a mental vow to wear the style. If anybody else dared to first. The skirt, of chiffon in sev eral layers and tones, was shaped like a bag, with oval openings at the cor ners for the ankles. These openings were edged with beads and a latticed beaded design extended from belt to hip. weighting down the georgette. Over this was a low-placed, knotted sash of the georgette. The bodice, logr waisted and draped about the figure in a wrapped effect was embroidered with beads in the effect of many drooping necklaces. The sleeves were loose and flowing with a latticed bead pattern at the edges. An alluring new bathing cap Is of rose-colored rubber with a pleated frill falling around the face and two rubber roses above the ears. A rubber "bride" or chin-strap passes from rose to rose. giving the frilled cap a dainty bonnet effect. Another new bathing cap is in mortar-board- style, except that it set tles well down over the hair instead of perching unbecomingly on the head like the university mortar-board. The top is made of checked rubber, and the crown band of plain rubber. Denotes winner of trick. Z-Y makes a little alam, scoring 150 (0 for tricks. 40 for aces and 50 for slam. Coaveatloaal Lead Made. Trick 1 A makes the conventional lead of fourth best of his suit the eight of spades. At a trump declara tion the spade king would be the cor rect lead, but at no trumps, fourth best, save when the suit contains as many as seven cards, or three honors, two of them touching. When a high card is led at "no trumps" it should be the same high card that would be led at a trump. In this case it would be the king. By applying the "eleven rule," Z reads that between him and dummy they hold the three cards higher than the one led which are out against the leader. He therefore plays dummy's ten, knowing It will hold the trick, and leave the lead with dummy, where it is most im portant it should be. Between his hand and dummy's the club suit is fully es tablished, but he blocks the suit In dummy's hand. Therefore,, as he has no heart with which to put dummy again in the lead, at tricks 2 and 3 he leads dummy a ace and king of hearts, on these tricks discarding his two com manding clubs the ace and king. Trick 4 Dummy is still In the lead, with seven good clubs, which he pro ceeds to make. Trick 11 Dummy leads the four of spades, which declarer wins with ace, at trick 12, making his diamond ace. Trick 13 goes to A with diamond king. A is guided in his discard at trick 10 by the declarer's discard. As declarer, on this U-lck, discarded the spade pack, A knew he had but the spade ace remaining, and so discarded his spade queen, that he might keep his diamond king guarded. Had declarer at this trick discarded the diamond queen A would have discarded his dia mond Jack, that he might keep his spade king protected, and thus make trick in spades. "When In Doubt Eat Clieese. Whereas in 1881 we shipped abroad nearly 150,000.000 pounds of cheese, in 1914, Just before the war cut off our trade, we shipped only 2,500.000, says William Leavitt Stoddard in the April Mother's Magazine. We simply did not appreciate cheese, and we came to rely on other nations for our supply, we relied on foreign cheese makers to such an extent that whereas in 1900 we bought only 13,500.000 pounds from abroad. In 1914 we bought nearly five times as much, or 64.000,000 pounds. much of which could and should have been produced in the United States. It is bound to take some years to reverse this drift of things. By legislative fiat or court decree no governmental power can induce folks to eat cheese. Perhaps the war will do what courts and Congresses cannot. Perhaps the scarcity of meat will turn us more to cheese, a good, solid, digest Inle. upstanding food. Last Summer's Left-Overs Replenish Wardrobe. War. Prices Cause Women to Prac tice Strict Economy. 'ERYTHING one puts on one's back has gone up In price because of war conditions, and the average woman is carefully, considering last Summer's left-overs of the wardrobe and wonder ing how they can be made more wear able for this year. Every bit of econ omy of this sort makes it easier to buy the new clothes that simply must be added if the Summer wardrobe Is to be adequate for all occasions. Net chiffon blouses that have become a little worn under the arms need not be discarded in this day of silk slip overs, and there are legions of these pretty slipovers in the shops. Some of them are of gay-patterned silks in batik design, others are of plain-colored crepe de chine, still others are of chiffon. A lovely rose-colored chiffon slipover sleeveless as all these models are has inch-wide box pleats across the entire surface, front and a sash of the- chiffos is loosely knotted around tho waistline. The V neck opening and armholes are finished with hemstitched hems. A dainty slipover of pale-blue crepe de chJne is embroidered on the front in tiny white beads and the soft sash Is weighted with bead tassels. The deeply V'd neck opening Is outlined by a wide shawl collar, edged all around with a tiny pleating of the material. Sometimes an otherwise usable frock is hopeless because of ugly soil traces on the fronts of the bodice, or discolored places where attempt has been made to take out spots with, some cleaning mixture that lld not work very well. And it is expensive to send a whole frock to be dry cleaned be cause of two or three tiny but con spicuous spots on the bodice front. The very deep, long-pointed collars now fashionable quite cover the front of the bodice and one of these collars, say in hemstitched or georgette crepe or in pintucked organdy, may grant such a: frock a new lease of life. "Oh, Give Me Back My Youth!" Of course it is futile to hope for an actual return to the Springtime of our lives the days when we wene joyous and full of enthusiasm and efficiency, when nothing seemed impossible of accomplishment. But modern corset-science DOES enable every woman to defer the day of failing health and strength, and, in a great measure, to recover both when lost. Nemo Wonderlift Corsets Are the Source of Perpetual Youth! Their functions are unique a new kind of corset ser vice. They preserve health therefore good looks by Preventing the ills due to disarrangements of vital organs, and are most help ful in restoring vigor and youthfulness when these begin to wane. They are Perfect Style Corsets giving to each figure its finest individual lines. They are supremely comfortable. Eight models, back-laced, for figure from very slender to extra-stout $6, $10 aad J 12. Four models with the new Nemo Marvelace (a short lacing ' at side-front), for medium-slender to stout figures $6 ana $10. Nemo Wondertift Coneta render a gpeciftc Hygienic-Style Service that no other conet can possibly give or even imitate. ASK YOUR DEALER LITERATURE ON REQUEST . The Nemo Hrsieaic-FaaliioB Institute, New York City, U. S. A. W0NDERLIFT SERVICE RATHER THAN BEAUTY IS PLEA OF MODERN WOMAN Fine and Beautiful Lingerie Is Put Aside for Stouter and More Serviceable Undergarments Cheaper Materials Demand Attention. EVERT woman loves fine and beau tiful lingerie, but few women love to do mending, or have any skill in this really exquisite-art. Yet mending is an important art, these days of filmy underwear; mending is, in fact, as much a part of personal daintiness as good grooming of the body is, and torn, rag- T ..... . .............. 4 ill4' VV III y vn - 4 The Shame of 111 Health. ''Health Is easier to maintain than 111 health. If one is sick or weak it is not because Providence has decreed it. It is the efTect of easily ascertainable causes. If you are sick, it is your own fault or at least it is after you have been Informed how you can keep well. or ir such lnrormation is avauaDie, which It is. You have no business to be other than sound and vigorous in every respect. There is such a thing as a condition oi Doay ana a couumuu of health that one may have reason to feel proud of. There is no justifica tion for tolerating any other state of body or health. From "Harden Your Body for War or Business." Dy uernarr Macfadden in Physical Culture. From rubbish, which would formerly have been thrown away, army cooks, it was stated- at a recent iooa economy eeting in England, had saved enough to provide R.OOft.Ono large shells. silk crepe garments, are not necessarily hideous our mothers and grandmothers were well content with undergarments of fine cambric, longcloth and even muslin, trimmed with fine but not sheer embroidery, and a trousseau of these garments was supposed to laBt a bride for several years. A modern trousseau of chiffon, batiste and crepe de chine lingerie rarely endures more than a twelvemonth. Unless a woman has a personal maid, jshe should make it her business to mas ter the art of fine needlework, and only beautiful needlework can mend satis factorily the dainty lingerie garments worn these days. Thin spots in fabric may be darned with 150 cotton and u. No. 10 needle and the material rein forced effectively. Sometimes a medal lion of batiste, set In with hand em broidery, will take the place of a pro saic patch, when the garment is worth the trouble. Laces may be mended to look like new and where beading is pulled out at the neck a ribbon casing of doubled net may be added. 5 - S2 4 .Ml k 7, t .... .4 Good Spenders Rarely Good ' Menders. ged or frayed garments, no matter how fine their material and smart their cut, are a disgrace to any woman. If one is too busy to take time to keep fine lingerie in order and a good many women claim they are It would be better to purchase stouter under garments. .These, while not as fascin ating and allurinsr as sheer hatl.stw and Cardinal Gibbons Has Lone Life. Cardinal Gibbons In New York Inde pendent. I have lived a longer time than al most any man now in public life. It must be very difficult for the present generation to reconstruct for them selves the world into which I was born, things are so completely changed. The Napoleonic wars were still a living memory. Many people who were by no means old when I was a boy had seen General Washington, and when I waa 10 years old men who were as old then as I am now were 14 years of nge at the time of the Declaration of Indepen dence. Slavery was in existence in the Southern states and was to remain in existence until I was a grown man and priest. Machinery was junt coming into use, but nobody dreamed of the ex tent to which it would be employed later on. Klectricity in all its uses w hs almost undreamed of. Men know from the experiments of Benjamin Franklin that it might possibly be used, but tho telegraph, telephone and electric light had still to come. Railroads were a new invention. i fMM way Kotf ttvs treatment helps your Acur To keep your hair lovely and abundant you must, by the proper treatment, keep your scalp healthy and vigorous. Is your hair dull and lifeless? It can be made rich and lustrous. Is it greasy, oily, or dry and brittle? You can correct the condition which prevents the tiny oil glands from emitting just . the right amount of oil to keep your hair toft and silky. mm Try this famous shampoo Before shampooing, rub the scalp thoroughly with the tips of the fingers (not the finger nails) making the scalp itself move in little circles. This loosens the dead cells and particles of dust and dandruff that clog up the pores. Now scrub the scalp with a stiff toothbrush lathered with Woodbury's Facial Soap. Rub the lather in well, then rinse it out. Next apply a thick, hot lather of Wood bury's Facial Soap, and leave it on for two or three minutes. Clear off with fresh, warm water, finishing with cold water. Dry very thoroughly. You will enjoy the healthy, active feeling it gives your scalp. You will soon see the improvement in your hair how much richer ' and softer it is. For ten or twelve snampoos, you will find the 25c cake of Woodbury's Facial Soap sufficient, or for a month or six weeks' general cleansing use. Get a cake today. Woodbury's is for sale at drug stores and toilet goods counters everywhere throughout the United States and Canada. Send us 5c for a trial-size cake, together Vith a booklet of the famous Woodbury face and scalp treatments. Or for 12c we will send you, in addition to these, samples of Woodbury's Facial Cream and Facial Powder. Address The Andrew Jergens Co., 6408 Spring Grove Avenue,. Cincinnati, Ohio. If ytu live in Canada, address The Andrew Jergens Ct., Ltmit td, 6408 Sherbreekc Street, fertA, Ontario. t