The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current, January 21, 1917, SECTION FIVE, Page 7, Image 63

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    THE SUNDAY OREGONIAX, PORTLAND, JANUARY 21, 1917.
COLLARS OF NEW BLOUSES LIE FLAT TO
EMPHASIZE PRETTY NECK AND SHOULDERS
On Cnffs and Along Dainty Frills Are Embroideries in New Darning or Running Stitch, Done With Colored Sewing
Silk Imitation Filet Is Fashionable Lace This' Season.
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PAISLEY blouses are the rage and
every woman who counts her
self modish must number one of
these say blouses among her Spring:
belongings. Of course the Paisley
shawling is not used for the new
blouses, but very sheer, dainty Paisley
chiffon, the designs taken from old
patterns in handsome shawls. A love
ly combination of deep blue, rose and
tan is one Paisley blouse, the Llat
collar, front and sleeves edged with
black chiffon to bring out the color
effect. The seams of the blouses are
sewed with rose-colored sewing silk
and the hemstitching is done with
black silk.
Collars of the new blouses lie flat
on the shoulders, emphasizing the
graceful lines of throat and shoulder
to advantage. Even frilled trimmings
are pressed very flat, as in a model
from Christane, a dainty blouse of white
georgette tucked across front and back
and showing a new collar, draped
fichu-fashion into a buttoned panel
below the bust. On the cuffs and
along 'the dainty plis.se frills are em
. broidered in the new darning or run
ning stitch, done with colored sewing
silk the very latest notion of Paris. "
This is an attractive ready-made
blouse, one of the prettiest of the new
models ready for Spring wear. The
material is fine white French organdie
with a deal of pintucking and inserts
of Imitation filet, a fashionable lace
for the coming season. Cuffs and col
lar are hand embroidered and the col
lar sbpws the new flat line over the
shoulders. The sleeve, with its full
ness between upper arm and ' cuff, is
also indicative of the Spring mode.
yc3 K-o-5a"
A Substitute for Cune.
Everyone has a number of cane-seated
cbairs which have the bottom out. A
good plan to replace them is to get a
cheese box from your grocer. Knock
the top and bottom from the box. Take
the drum-like middle apart and soak
in warm water. Cut in lengths one
inch wide and the size of the chair
bottom. Get small headless nails and
start the same as the original cane
seat. Interwine the material on the
U .; Lifcws - y ?
Co3 ri- T'y'Jn Artten 7J-JS& or
principle of caning, oven and under
like braiding. In order to hide tack
around the edge. Stain bottom to I
ing run a. border of same material
match chair. Albert Wharton. Roeb
ling. N. J.
PRETTY SPRING BLOUSES, MORE DECOLLETE
THAN EVER, ARE COMING OVER FROM PARIS
evidence this Spring Scrubbings, cold
cream and massage must restore Its
smooth, milk-whiteness if an era of
tall collars has made marring lines.
A pretty notion is the -slipping of a
thin lining in pale color under the net
louse, and one may nave several lln-
ngs, pale blue, flesh pink and corn-
color for a single blouse for the lining
s quite separate and is put together
aintily with hemstitching. Its sleeves
are as long as the blouse sleeves o
hat there is no break in the soft un
dertone of color. There are also lining
so soiree silk with appliqued designs
n metal ribbon for wear under black
net blouses and several of these, also,
many accompany a single, blouse for
economy's sake.
One. for instance, might be of gold-
colored soiree with geranium and gold
metal ribbon: another ciel blue with a
design done in narrow black velvet rib
bon; still another of rose or peacn pinK
soiree silk with silver lace.
Soutache GnkroMcrlra, Appf sr.
Speakine of designs done in narrow
ribbon, one is reminded of the soutache
embroideries that have made their bow
for Spring. Soutache is everywhere
on tailored suits and wraps, on blouses,
on chiffon dance' frocks, even on lin
gerie. The new blouses of georgette
and chiffon with soutache embroidery
are extremely effective, and the more
sheer the background material, tne
better the soutache shows up. The
trimming is sometimes in self color.
sometimes in icontrasting effect, as
tan georgette waists soutached in
brown, white chiffon waists soutached
rose, ami' the like.
Even in an otherwise hand-made
blouse the soutache is stitched by
machine, for only by machine work
can "the trimming be made to take the
flat line desired. Women who buy
soutache embroidered blouses should
make sure that the trimming is sewed
on with silk; a cheaper ubstltue will
nevitably show up in a few weeks and
spoil the color harmony. and silk
thread subsitutes gather dust a hard
thing to get rid of in a soutache em
broidered model of sheer material.
Among new blouse trimming that
Paris has originated is -darning em
broidery. This is a simple running or
darning stitch in regular lines, done
with colored sewing: and when several
colors are - used together in lines the
effect is exceedingly good.
The lines follow conventional form;
circles, scrolls, oblongs and even Pais
ley motifs of Persian persuasion.
There are straight outline effects with
the darning done in shaded colors, from
light to dark on the white ground of
organdie, cotton voile or handkerchief
lawn.
Filet lace and hand embroideries
daintify some of the models and pin-
tucking is everywhere, even collars
and cuffs are made in solid phalanxes
or pm tucks with an Inch of material
at the edge left' untucked to form a
gay tulle frill.
One does not note many buttons on
the new blouses: many models fasten
without a button in sight. A pretty
trimming effect is obtained, however,
by rows of small, flat pear buttons
placed so closely together that they
touch each other.
TELEPHONE DIRECTORY IS EVEN
MADE LUXURIOUS THESE DAYS
Plain Cardboard Volume Will Not Do for Budoir or Library, but One Fash
ioned of Blue Tapestry Brocade Is Essential.
Progress of Stars in Skies
Show Spring: Is Coming.
Leo, the Ilonv ow Creeping; Higher
In Heaven and Warmer Weather
Is Approaching; Closer livery Day.
" , ' " i
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EVE.V .TELEPHONE DIRECTORl' LCXl'BIOl'S.
A
PLAIX ' cardboard telephone di
rectory well not do at all for the
handsomely furnished boudoir -or
library; even a morocco-bound-Jeather
directory is no longer quite good
enough. Like everything else these
days the telephone appurtenances must
be elegant and luxurious. - -This
directory to hang on the wall
near the telephone is made of rich
blue tapestry brocade and dull gold
braid. . A small t rench print is in
serted in the center, under a frame o
narrow gold galloon.
'The handles are of gold cord and blue
chenille and the pages of the directory
with their projecting tabs holding the
letters of the alphabet, are of heavy
cream-tinted cardboard.
Dozen Dainty Garments Needed for Summer Wear and All Should Be of Soft Tones
Buyer Is Warned to Be Wary.
-Substitutes Are Common and
THE first apple blossoms are not
nearly as important to the woman
who lives in town as the first
Spring blouses. She is on the qui vive
for their arrival, and if she is wise
picks up the models that strike her
fancy, while they are to be had. A
dozen dainty blouses are none too many
for the Summer season: that means a
blouse a week, selected between now
and April and so many new designs
are being produced by the manufactur
ers that, once seen and lost sight of.
a particular blouse is not apt to ap
pear atrain within one's ken.
The Paisley models are the most con
spicuous Just now because of their rich
color effects, and. really, every woman
should number at least one Paisley
waist among her Summer toggery. The
colors are so soft and . so ' beautifully
harmonized that such a blouse looks
well with several different costumes
and these waists have a particulars
dressy suggestion when worn with a
dark tailored suit.
The best models have a little dark
material introduced in cuff, collar and
vest, the contrast throwing: the vari
colored Paisley into richer effect. Of
course the heavy Paisley shawling is
not used for these Spring and Summer
waists: they are fashioned of sheer
voile or chiffon printed in Paisley pat
terns copied from handsome Paisley de
signs in old shawls.
Colors Are Soft Ulcnds.
- The colors usually Include soft blends
of ivory, rose, old blue, tan and nas
turtium reds with dashes of black in
the pattern. Sometimes scarlet and
green are introduced, but the softer
hues are the favorites. There are vari
ous grades of Paisley blouses, natur
ally, but it pays to pick out a high
class model when such a conspicuous
waist is to be worn.
The better Paisley blouses have soft
er, more pleasing color combinations
and the sewing of seams, tucks, and so
forth, is done exclusively with silk
an important point to consider. Cheap
threads ruin the good style and quali
ties of service in too many manufac
tured models and the substitution
should not be tolerated by a discern
ing woman.
Some of the more dressy blouses
coming over from Paris now have very
short sleeves not an inch over the
turn of the elbow! This will delight
the woman who loves cool, dainty el
bow sleeves in Summer; but let her
not make the mistake of putting such
sleeves in a tailored, blouse tor these
have sleeves to the wrist in all cases.
So have the formal' costume blouses
intended for wear with tailored Spring
suits of serge, checked worsted and
mohair.
It is only the gay little "dressy"
blouse for matinee wear or for after
noons or dinner hour at home that dis
ports the elbow sleeve. and these
blouses are of chiffon and lace or of
net with plisse frills. Net blouses are
tremendously in favor and exquisitely
dainty they are. for Spring and Sum
mer wear, with their little pleated
frillings and rather pronounced decbl
letage, a folded band of colored ribbon
tied in a flat bow at the point of the
V opening, emphasizing the low cut.
This deep decolletage is noted in
all the imported blouses and even at
the back of the neck the waists seem
to be cut out more than has been
usual during the past few seasons.
Collars Are Flat.
Collars do not rise in Medici effect
or stately Klizabethan effects, at the
back of the neck, but turn down flatly
on the blouse and the lines of the
throat, shoulder and arm are clearly
defined.
This style does not seem to portend
a low hairdressing either; the hair is
drawn up from the neck "and coiled
high, so femininity must look (by aid
of a hand mirror) to the nape of the
neck which promises to be much in
THE woman who knows and loves
her astronomy does' not need to go
down town to the shops to be reminded
by white sales and marked-down Win
ter garments that Winter is on the wane
and Spring is on the way. She looks
out of her easterly window one of
these clear, cold nights, and sees the
constellation Leo coining up from the
horizon Leo, the Lion, who presides
over harvest season ami sends Mid
Summer weather by the time he rides
high in the skfly. Leo rises at 9 o'clock
on the first evening of the new year
and during eveny night of his prog
ress up the sky the Spring is drawing
nearer.
So much pleasure is added to life by
a knowledge of the stars and familiar
ity with their movements that it seems
a pity so few people add this means
of enjoyment to their existence. Em
erson once expressed this when he
said reproachfully, "In these days of
nautical almanacs the man in the street
ooes not know a star in the sky."
Yet enough knowledge of the stars
may be acquired in a few weeks by
anybody, without need of a nautical
almanac or even a telescope, to make
life a bigger and more interesting
thing than it ever seemed before.
There are many books on astronomy
for the amateur, books that are de
lightfully easy to understand and that
require no severe mental effort in the
realms of higher mathematics. It is
a Joy to watch any favorite star make
its journey across the sky, month by
month or hour by hour on a single
night, for the stars, because of the
double motion of the earth, move as
far la two hours of a night as a month
takes them in the other movement.
This is difficult to comprehend until
one studies a little astronomy, then Jt
is simple enough to understand. ,
Just now, 'in the clear, cold nights
of Winter, a number of brilliant stars
are visible, Sirius. flashing and bril
liant in the southeast; Procyon. a little-higher,
the wonderful stars in
Orion, the pinkish star in Aldeberan.
almost overhead; the diamond-bright
Capella. lovely Vega. Just setting.
In May Vega will be back again
dancing up the northeast and with her
will be her Summer train, bold A "re
turns, pure, serene Spica and rtie In
spiring Altair, the Eagle of the Winds.
It you only go as far as learning the
constellations that majestically circle
the Pole Star, astronomy will repay
you many times over, and as soon as
night draws Its curtain you will begin
to watch for your friends, the stars.
SMART MOTOR HAT IS LINED
. THROUGHOUT IN BEAVER FUR
Ear Laps May Be Rolled Back Giving Trim Toque and in Addition to Per
fection of Style There Is an Abundance of Warmth. '
Can he put out another before a run
is made? '
The shouting on the side lines has
died down. The situation is too tense
for shouts. Ostensibly this is only a
baseball game. But both -sides . feel
that their prestige is at stake. .
When the priests, among whom are
some wonderful athletes, challenged,
the Christians they knew it -would be
a big feather in their cap if they could
beat them. '
There was a great deal of excitement
before the game and I doubt not many
prayers went" up from the boys like
the one offered by a little foreign girl
in Kioto: "Lord bless the Buddhists
and help us to wipe them off the face
of the earth."
, The Doshisha theolog puts out his
third man, a shout goes up from his
cheering squad, and with lighter hearts
the Christians go to the bat.
Here they are with two men on
bases. Watch that big left-handed
Christian. There goes a hot liner
toward Otani. the chief Abbot and
brother-in-law of the Empress. Hespite
his royal connections- he can't hold it.
Two runs cross the plate and the Chris
tians take home the bacon.
Baseball is not the field in which the
Buddhists of Japan are challenging the
Christians. They have started weekly
prayer meeting sand flourishing Sun
day schools , and are earnestly en
deavoring to compete with Christianity
in the use of all its tools.
California. Poppies.
Two years ago we had an out-of-door
cellar, or root house, dug. To make
It frost-proof in this part of the coun
try we had it dug as deep as any ordi
nary cellar, and on top, covered it with
dirt to the depth of three or four feet.
The only available place for it was
near the house, in plain lght of pas
sers-by. It was anything but orna
mental. Finally we thought of the
California poppy. One or two small
packets of seed were sufficient to cover
the cellar and from Spring until frost
we had a mass of lovely yellow blooms.
So you see our unsightly mound be
came . quite ornamental. Minnie O.
Wolfe, Norman, Minn.
.. Science Jottings.
The custom of hand-shaking dates
back to Henry the Second, of England
mere is an average 01 aooui ao
births and 70 deaths in a day in'Lon
don. " '
More than one-third of the total
population of Dublin consists of faml
lies livinfc in a single room.
Twenty-three operations are neces
sary in the washing and ironing of a
collar.
The skylark and the woodlark are
thought to be the only birds -which
sing as they fly.
In Mexico there grows a tree calle
the "tree of little hands." It is thu
called owing to the fact that its five
peculiarly curved antlers look like th
fingers of a child.
Company Admits Damages.
CHICAGO. Jan. 20. Michael Klink-
enburg hied a suit against the Great
Lake Steamship Company, asking (6000
damages for personal injuries, and half
an hour later attorneys for the defend
ant appeared before Federal Judge
George A. Carpenter, admitted the
claim was just and paid the sum de
manded. Klinkenburg was employed
as assistant engineer on the steamship
William Nottingham and lost an arm
as the result of an accident at San
dusky. O., July 7. 1916.
OTOR hats come and go. buthis
ew Winter motor helmet is
likely to retain its place in fem
inine favor through many a passing
style period from sheer force of ex
cellence. Never was a more practical
and. at the same time fetching model
in motor headgear conceived. Warm as
toast it is, with its cosy fur lining,
and when it Is not dragged down
around the ears and cheeks on a freez
ing day. it makes itself into the smart
est little fur toque imaginable s.imply
by turning up the ear laps and rolling
back the brim.
Then, behold! A trig toque of beaver
fur and nothing but beaver fur visible.
The cap. cut in melon shape at the
top. is of brown pontine, a waxed,
leather-like material new to fashion
this season and admirable in its
warmth combined with extra lightness,
and in its rain-shedding quality.
Pontine is waxed on the outer side
and has a back of satin or cloth, but
in this instance the material has been
entirely lined with beaver fur. Miss
Annette Kellerman, world-famed for
her exploits in swimming and now
equally famous as a. movie star, has a
stunning Winter motor coat of brown
pontine trimmed with beaver, the com
bination resembling the brown pontine
and beaver of this, attractive motor
cap. . . ' ...
V
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Cap for Winter Motor Maid.
The Pup and the Cycler.
A slippery road, a bicycle and an el
derly gentleman. Such a combination
is full of possibilities, and when to
these is added a playful puppy excite
ment is apt to grow intense.
On the occasion under notice the
puppy evidently mistook the bicycle
tires for his own elusive tail. He
scampered around It for awhile, with
the consequence that the elderly gen
tleman found that he was detached
from his bicycle, and that he was sa
luting the road jn the amiable fashion
of the far northern country, where
they rub noses. He was not delighted
with the situation; but the dog evi
dently was. for he frisked around and
barked joyously.
""Did you fall, mister?" inquired the
butcher's boy, who had viewed tie per
formance. "Of course I did," said the elderly
gentleman, with some show of anger.
"Ah," said the philosopher and friend
of the man of meat. "I thought you
wouldn't have got down there Just to
play wit'-i the dog!" Chicago Journal.
FILET IS MOST DISTINGUISHED
LACE NOW FOR DECORATIONS
Cluny Replaced by More Expensive Material Exquisite Trimming Used for
Making Perambulators Attractive Many Dainty Devices Employed.
ttv'-rT.ir .'''."' P'J--t n i-ii'w''it,iuls)ai.-l'n , r-.. ri J
WrsTY . . .- M
Buddhist Priests Play Baseball.
(M..E Hall in World Outlook for December.)
"At a boy!"
Hats go up in the air. The "fans"
from the Buddhist temple nod their
shaven heads at each other in delieht.
It's the ninth inning in the game be-1
tween, the priests- from Hongwangi
Temple and the Christian students of
Doshisha University and the score is
1 to 1,
The priests are at the bat and the
young theolog twirler from Doshisha
seems to have lost his control. Only
one man is out and two men are on
bases on safe hits.
The young Christian Japanese hitches
up bis trousers, winds up and sends
the ball spinning! over the plate.
"Strike three!" And another Budd
hist priest goes to the bench.
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VTLU-r FOR PKKtMUl I. A TO It.
nn1
HE most distinguished lace for dec-
. oratlve purposes now is iiieu ii
-1- is much more fashionable than
cluny, and in consequence more expen
sive. The Infant born with the pro
verbial gold spoon in his mouth takes
his airing in the park or on the avenu
under a cover of the fashionable fUet.
and filet covers the silk pillow under
his- little head.
Of course, there is an ample supply cf
soft, delightfully warm blankets under
the lace coverlet and the filet spread
is lined with silk that shows off its
pattern. The very palest colors are
used for baby now; bright pinks and
what was once called "baby" biuo Are
Standard.
op rno:FTS
jKPy
355 '
375
kV-rt---v
V.
309
NEW MODELS
COMBINING
GREAT FEATURES
Self-Reducing
Auto-Massage
Back-Resting
STYLE
Low or Girdle Top.
Long Flexible Skirt.
Silhouette for 1917.
COMFORT
Perfect-Fitting Models.
Lighter than usual.
ECONOMY
Same High Quality.
Same Low Prices.
No. 355 - - $3.75
Self- Reducing
Auto-Massage -
FOR THE STOUT FIGURE
Incurved front steels elastic
supporting and reducing bands.
Girdle top, higher in front.
No. 408 - - $4.00
Self-Reducing
Back - Resting
FOR THE STOUT FIGURE
Reduces, supports, and
"rests your back." Low top.
No. 309 - - $3.50
Back-Resting
Auto-Massage
FOR MED rUM FULL FIGURE
Low top; ligh in weight
Sizes 20 to 30.
SOLD EVERYWHERE
Standard
service
never seen on the trappings of fash
ionable perambulators. The blue is a
faint, faint shade and the pink, is
scarcely deeper than flesh tone.
The coverlet pictured is made of a
square of filet lace, hand made in the
exact size required, and is laid over a
wadded quilt of very pale blue soiree
silk. The ribbon trimming is pale blue
also, and shimmering, flower patterned
wash ribbon was used.
A dainty device is the arrangement of
little crocheted buttons or disks around
the edge of the coverlet. Under these
runs the thread of silk floss whii-h.
holds together the filet front and
handkerchief linen back of the coverlet.
The quilted pad of blue silk slips in
side and may be removed when tlie
coverlet is laundered. .
Power of Newspapers.
Industrial Management.
In their campaign against predatory
corporations, "American publications
alarmed all Latin-America. They led
it to believe that those concerns men
aced the economic dominion of every
government of Spanish-America. That
campaign helped enormously tbe prop
aganda of anti-Americanism uiat'has
been carried on so successfully in all
countries south of tao United tates.