THE SUNDAY OREGONIAX, PORTLAND, JANUARY 21, 1917. COLLARS OF NEW BLOUSES LIE FLAT TO EMPHASIZE PRETTY NECK AND SHOULDERS On Cnffs and Along Dainty Frills Are Embroideries in New Darning or Running Stitch, Done With Colored Sewing Silk Imitation Filet Is Fashionable Lace This' Season. ' I l V-f Vj ri vV - yi i 5 --ii - y 1 y- 4 PAISLEY blouses are the rage and every woman who counts her self modish must number one of these say blouses among her Spring: belongings. Of course the Paisley shawling is not used for the new blouses, but very sheer, dainty Paisley chiffon, the designs taken from old patterns in handsome shawls. A love ly combination of deep blue, rose and tan is one Paisley blouse, the Llat collar, front and sleeves edged with black chiffon to bring out the color effect. The seams of the blouses are sewed with rose-colored sewing silk and the hemstitching is done with black silk. Collars of the new blouses lie flat on the shoulders, emphasizing the graceful lines of throat and shoulder to advantage. Even frilled trimmings are pressed very flat, as in a model from Christane, a dainty blouse of white georgette tucked across front and back and showing a new collar, draped fichu-fashion into a buttoned panel below the bust. On the cuffs and along 'the dainty plis.se frills are em . broidered in the new darning or run ning stitch, done with colored sewing silk the very latest notion of Paris. " This is an attractive ready-made blouse, one of the prettiest of the new models ready for Spring wear. The material is fine white French organdie with a deal of pintucking and inserts of Imitation filet, a fashionable lace for the coming season. Cuffs and col lar are hand embroidered and the col lar sbpws the new flat line over the shoulders. The sleeve, with its full ness between upper arm and ' cuff, is also indicative of the Spring mode. yc3 K-o-5a" A Substitute for Cune. Everyone has a number of cane-seated cbairs which have the bottom out. A good plan to replace them is to get a cheese box from your grocer. Knock the top and bottom from the box. Take the drum-like middle apart and soak in warm water. Cut in lengths one inch wide and the size of the chair bottom. Get small headless nails and start the same as the original cane seat. Interwine the material on the U .; Lifcws - y ? Co3 ri- T'y'Jn Artten 7J-JS& or principle of caning, oven and under like braiding. In order to hide tack around the edge. Stain bottom to I ing run a. border of same material match chair. Albert Wharton. Roeb ling. N. J. PRETTY SPRING BLOUSES, MORE DECOLLETE THAN EVER, ARE COMING OVER FROM PARIS evidence this Spring Scrubbings, cold cream and massage must restore Its smooth, milk-whiteness if an era of tall collars has made marring lines. A pretty notion is the -slipping of a thin lining in pale color under the net louse, and one may nave several lln- ngs, pale blue, flesh pink and corn- color for a single blouse for the lining s quite separate and is put together aintily with hemstitching. Its sleeves are as long as the blouse sleeves o hat there is no break in the soft un dertone of color. There are also lining so soiree silk with appliqued designs n metal ribbon for wear under black net blouses and several of these, also, many accompany a single, blouse for economy's sake. One. for instance, might be of gold- colored soiree with geranium and gold metal ribbon: another ciel blue with a design done in narrow black velvet rib bon; still another of rose or peacn pinK soiree silk with silver lace. Soutache GnkroMcrlra, Appf sr. Speakine of designs done in narrow ribbon, one is reminded of the soutache embroideries that have made their bow for Spring. Soutache is everywhere on tailored suits and wraps, on blouses, on chiffon dance' frocks, even on lin gerie. The new blouses of georgette and chiffon with soutache embroidery are extremely effective, and the more sheer the background material, tne better the soutache shows up. The trimming is sometimes in self color. sometimes in icontrasting effect, as tan georgette waists soutached in brown, white chiffon waists soutached rose, ami' the like. Even in an otherwise hand-made blouse the soutache is stitched by machine, for only by machine work can "the trimming be made to take the flat line desired. Women who buy soutache embroidered blouses should make sure that the trimming is sewed on with silk; a cheaper ubstltue will nevitably show up in a few weeks and spoil the color harmony. and silk thread subsitutes gather dust a hard thing to get rid of in a soutache em broidered model of sheer material. Among new blouse trimming that Paris has originated is -darning em broidery. This is a simple running or darning stitch in regular lines, done with colored sewing: and when several colors are - used together in lines the effect is exceedingly good. The lines follow conventional form; circles, scrolls, oblongs and even Pais ley motifs of Persian persuasion. There are straight outline effects with the darning done in shaded colors, from light to dark on the white ground of organdie, cotton voile or handkerchief lawn. Filet lace and hand embroideries daintify some of the models and pin- tucking is everywhere, even collars and cuffs are made in solid phalanxes or pm tucks with an Inch of material at the edge left' untucked to form a gay tulle frill. One does not note many buttons on the new blouses: many models fasten without a button in sight. A pretty trimming effect is obtained, however, by rows of small, flat pear buttons placed so closely together that they touch each other. TELEPHONE DIRECTORY IS EVEN MADE LUXURIOUS THESE DAYS Plain Cardboard Volume Will Not Do for Budoir or Library, but One Fash ioned of Blue Tapestry Brocade Is Essential. Progress of Stars in Skies Show Spring: Is Coming. Leo, the Ilonv ow Creeping; Higher In Heaven and Warmer Weather Is Approaching; Closer livery Day. " , ' " i .-- EVE.V .TELEPHONE DIRECTORl' LCXl'BIOl'S. A PLAIX ' cardboard telephone di rectory well not do at all for the handsomely furnished boudoir -or library; even a morocco-bound-Jeather directory is no longer quite good enough. Like everything else these days the telephone appurtenances must be elegant and luxurious. - -This directory to hang on the wall near the telephone is made of rich blue tapestry brocade and dull gold braid. . A small t rench print is in serted in the center, under a frame o narrow gold galloon. 'The handles are of gold cord and blue chenille and the pages of the directory with their projecting tabs holding the letters of the alphabet, are of heavy cream-tinted cardboard. Dozen Dainty Garments Needed for Summer Wear and All Should Be of Soft Tones Buyer Is Warned to Be Wary. -Substitutes Are Common and THE first apple blossoms are not nearly as important to the woman who lives in town as the first Spring blouses. She is on the qui vive for their arrival, and if she is wise picks up the models that strike her fancy, while they are to be had. A dozen dainty blouses are none too many for the Summer season: that means a blouse a week, selected between now and April and so many new designs are being produced by the manufactur ers that, once seen and lost sight of. a particular blouse is not apt to ap pear atrain within one's ken. The Paisley models are the most con spicuous Just now because of their rich color effects, and. really, every woman should number at least one Paisley waist among her Summer toggery. The colors are so soft and . so ' beautifully harmonized that such a blouse looks well with several different costumes and these waists have a particulars dressy suggestion when worn with a dark tailored suit. The best models have a little dark material introduced in cuff, collar and vest, the contrast throwing: the vari colored Paisley into richer effect. Of course the heavy Paisley shawling is not used for these Spring and Summer waists: they are fashioned of sheer voile or chiffon printed in Paisley pat terns copied from handsome Paisley de signs in old shawls. Colors Are Soft Ulcnds. - The colors usually Include soft blends of ivory, rose, old blue, tan and nas turtium reds with dashes of black in the pattern. Sometimes scarlet and green are introduced, but the softer hues are the favorites. There are vari ous grades of Paisley blouses, natur ally, but it pays to pick out a high class model when such a conspicuous waist is to be worn. The better Paisley blouses have soft er, more pleasing color combinations and the sewing of seams, tucks, and so forth, is done exclusively with silk an important point to consider. Cheap threads ruin the good style and quali ties of service in too many manufac tured models and the substitution should not be tolerated by a discern ing woman. Some of the more dressy blouses coming over from Paris now have very short sleeves not an inch over the turn of the elbow! This will delight the woman who loves cool, dainty el bow sleeves in Summer; but let her not make the mistake of putting such sleeves in a tailored, blouse tor these have sleeves to the wrist in all cases. So have the formal' costume blouses intended for wear with tailored Spring suits of serge, checked worsted and mohair. It is only the gay little "dressy" blouse for matinee wear or for after noons or dinner hour at home that dis ports the elbow sleeve. and these blouses are of chiffon and lace or of net with plisse frills. Net blouses are tremendously in favor and exquisitely dainty they are. for Spring and Sum mer wear, with their little pleated frillings and rather pronounced decbl letage, a folded band of colored ribbon tied in a flat bow at the point of the V opening, emphasizing the low cut. This deep decolletage is noted in all the imported blouses and even at the back of the neck the waists seem to be cut out more than has been usual during the past few seasons. Collars Are Flat. Collars do not rise in Medici effect or stately Klizabethan effects, at the back of the neck, but turn down flatly on the blouse and the lines of the throat, shoulder and arm are clearly defined. This style does not seem to portend a low hairdressing either; the hair is drawn up from the neck "and coiled high, so femininity must look (by aid of a hand mirror) to the nape of the neck which promises to be much in THE woman who knows and loves her astronomy does' not need to go down town to the shops to be reminded by white sales and marked-down Win ter garments that Winter is on the wane and Spring is on the way. She looks out of her easterly window one of these clear, cold nights, and sees the constellation Leo coining up from the horizon Leo, the Lion, who presides over harvest season ami sends Mid Summer weather by the time he rides high in the skfly. Leo rises at 9 o'clock on the first evening of the new year and during eveny night of his prog ress up the sky the Spring is drawing nearer. So much pleasure is added to life by a knowledge of the stars and familiar ity with their movements that it seems a pity so few people add this means of enjoyment to their existence. Em erson once expressed this when he said reproachfully, "In these days of nautical almanacs the man in the street ooes not know a star in the sky." Yet enough knowledge of the stars may be acquired in a few weeks by anybody, without need of a nautical almanac or even a telescope, to make life a bigger and more interesting thing than it ever seemed before. There are many books on astronomy for the amateur, books that are de lightfully easy to understand and that require no severe mental effort in the realms of higher mathematics. It is a Joy to watch any favorite star make its journey across the sky, month by month or hour by hour on a single night, for the stars, because of the double motion of the earth, move as far la two hours of a night as a month takes them in the other movement. This is difficult to comprehend until one studies a little astronomy, then Jt is simple enough to understand. , Just now, 'in the clear, cold nights of Winter, a number of brilliant stars are visible, Sirius. flashing and bril liant in the southeast; Procyon. a little-higher, the wonderful stars in Orion, the pinkish star in Aldeberan. almost overhead; the diamond-bright Capella. lovely Vega. Just setting. In May Vega will be back again dancing up the northeast and with her will be her Summer train, bold A "re turns, pure, serene Spica and rtie In spiring Altair, the Eagle of the Winds. It you only go as far as learning the constellations that majestically circle the Pole Star, astronomy will repay you many times over, and as soon as night draws Its curtain you will begin to watch for your friends, the stars. SMART MOTOR HAT IS LINED . THROUGHOUT IN BEAVER FUR Ear Laps May Be Rolled Back Giving Trim Toque and in Addition to Per fection of Style There Is an Abundance of Warmth. ' Can he put out another before a run is made? ' The shouting on the side lines has died down. The situation is too tense for shouts. Ostensibly this is only a baseball game. But both -sides . feel that their prestige is at stake. . When the priests, among whom are some wonderful athletes, challenged, the Christians they knew it -would be a big feather in their cap if they could beat them. ' There was a great deal of excitement before the game and I doubt not many prayers went" up from the boys like the one offered by a little foreign girl in Kioto: "Lord bless the Buddhists and help us to wipe them off the face of the earth." , The Doshisha theolog puts out his third man, a shout goes up from his cheering squad, and with lighter hearts the Christians go to the bat. Here they are with two men on bases. Watch that big left-handed Christian. There goes a hot liner toward Otani. the chief Abbot and brother-in-law of the Empress. Hespite his royal connections- he can't hold it. Two runs cross the plate and the Chris tians take home the bacon. Baseball is not the field in which the Buddhists of Japan are challenging the Christians. They have started weekly prayer meeting sand flourishing Sun day schools , and are earnestly en deavoring to compete with Christianity in the use of all its tools. California. Poppies. Two years ago we had an out-of-door cellar, or root house, dug. To make It frost-proof in this part of the coun try we had it dug as deep as any ordi nary cellar, and on top, covered it with dirt to the depth of three or four feet. The only available place for it was near the house, in plain lght of pas sers-by. It was anything but orna mental. Finally we thought of the California poppy. One or two small packets of seed were sufficient to cover the cellar and from Spring until frost we had a mass of lovely yellow blooms. So you see our unsightly mound be came . quite ornamental. Minnie O. Wolfe, Norman, Minn. .. Science Jottings. The custom of hand-shaking dates back to Henry the Second, of England mere is an average 01 aooui ao births and 70 deaths in a day in'Lon don. " ' More than one-third of the total population of Dublin consists of faml lies livinfc in a single room. Twenty-three operations are neces sary in the washing and ironing of a collar. The skylark and the woodlark are thought to be the only birds -which sing as they fly. In Mexico there grows a tree calle the "tree of little hands." It is thu called owing to the fact that its five peculiarly curved antlers look like th fingers of a child. Company Admits Damages. CHICAGO. Jan. 20. Michael Klink- enburg hied a suit against the Great Lake Steamship Company, asking (6000 damages for personal injuries, and half an hour later attorneys for the defend ant appeared before Federal Judge George A. Carpenter, admitted the claim was just and paid the sum de manded. Klinkenburg was employed as assistant engineer on the steamship William Nottingham and lost an arm as the result of an accident at San dusky. O., July 7. 1916. OTOR hats come and go. buthis ew Winter motor helmet is likely to retain its place in fem inine favor through many a passing style period from sheer force of ex cellence. Never was a more practical and. at the same time fetching model in motor headgear conceived. Warm as toast it is, with its cosy fur lining, and when it Is not dragged down around the ears and cheeks on a freez ing day. it makes itself into the smart est little fur toque imaginable s.imply by turning up the ear laps and rolling back the brim. Then, behold! A trig toque of beaver fur and nothing but beaver fur visible. The cap. cut in melon shape at the top. is of brown pontine, a waxed, leather-like material new to fashion this season and admirable in its warmth combined with extra lightness, and in its rain-shedding quality. Pontine is waxed on the outer side and has a back of satin or cloth, but in this instance the material has been entirely lined with beaver fur. Miss Annette Kellerman, world-famed for her exploits in swimming and now equally famous as a. movie star, has a stunning Winter motor coat of brown pontine trimmed with beaver, the com bination resembling the brown pontine and beaver of this, attractive motor cap. . . ' ... V .... ;.' " :-r - . i ' Si H Cap for Winter Motor Maid. The Pup and the Cycler. A slippery road, a bicycle and an el derly gentleman. Such a combination is full of possibilities, and when to these is added a playful puppy excite ment is apt to grow intense. On the occasion under notice the puppy evidently mistook the bicycle tires for his own elusive tail. He scampered around It for awhile, with the consequence that the elderly gen tleman found that he was detached from his bicycle, and that he was sa luting the road jn the amiable fashion of the far northern country, where they rub noses. He was not delighted with the situation; but the dog evi dently was. for he frisked around and barked joyously. ""Did you fall, mister?" inquired the butcher's boy, who had viewed tie per formance. "Of course I did," said the elderly gentleman, with some show of anger. "Ah," said the philosopher and friend of the man of meat. "I thought you wouldn't have got down there Just to play wit'-i the dog!" Chicago Journal. FILET IS MOST DISTINGUISHED LACE NOW FOR DECORATIONS Cluny Replaced by More Expensive Material Exquisite Trimming Used for Making Perambulators Attractive Many Dainty Devices Employed. ttv'-rT.ir .'''."' P'J--t n i-ii'w''it,iuls)ai.-l'n , r-.. ri J WrsTY . . .- M Buddhist Priests Play Baseball. (M..E Hall in World Outlook for December.) "At a boy!" Hats go up in the air. The "fans" from the Buddhist temple nod their shaven heads at each other in delieht. It's the ninth inning in the game be-1 tween, the priests- from Hongwangi Temple and the Christian students of Doshisha University and the score is 1 to 1, The priests are at the bat and the young theolog twirler from Doshisha seems to have lost his control. Only one man is out and two men are on bases on safe hits. The young Christian Japanese hitches up bis trousers, winds up and sends the ball spinning! over the plate. "Strike three!" And another Budd hist priest goes to the bench. e 4 r , - x. VTLU-r FOR PKKtMUl I. A TO It. nn1 HE most distinguished lace for dec- . oratlve purposes now is iiieu ii -1- is much more fashionable than cluny, and in consequence more expen sive. The Infant born with the pro verbial gold spoon in his mouth takes his airing in the park or on the avenu under a cover of the fashionable fUet. and filet covers the silk pillow under his- little head. Of course, there is an ample supply cf soft, delightfully warm blankets under the lace coverlet and the filet spread is lined with silk that shows off its pattern. The very palest colors are used for baby now; bright pinks and what was once called "baby" biuo Are Standard. op rno:FTS jKPy 355 ' 375 kV-rt---v V. 309 NEW MODELS COMBINING GREAT FEATURES Self-Reducing Auto-Massage Back-Resting STYLE Low or Girdle Top. Long Flexible Skirt. Silhouette for 1917. COMFORT Perfect-Fitting Models. Lighter than usual. ECONOMY Same High Quality. Same Low Prices. No. 355 - - $3.75 Self- Reducing Auto-Massage - FOR THE STOUT FIGURE Incurved front steels elastic supporting and reducing bands. Girdle top, higher in front. No. 408 - - $4.00 Self-Reducing Back - Resting FOR THE STOUT FIGURE Reduces, supports, and "rests your back." Low top. No. 309 - - $3.50 Back-Resting Auto-Massage FOR MED rUM FULL FIGURE Low top; ligh in weight Sizes 20 to 30. SOLD EVERYWHERE Standard service never seen on the trappings of fash ionable perambulators. The blue is a faint, faint shade and the pink, is scarcely deeper than flesh tone. The coverlet pictured is made of a square of filet lace, hand made in the exact size required, and is laid over a wadded quilt of very pale blue soiree silk. The ribbon trimming is pale blue also, and shimmering, flower patterned wash ribbon was used. A dainty device is the arrangement of little crocheted buttons or disks around the edge of the coverlet. Under these runs the thread of silk floss whii-h. holds together the filet front and handkerchief linen back of the coverlet. The quilted pad of blue silk slips in side and may be removed when tlie coverlet is laundered. . Power of Newspapers. Industrial Management. In their campaign against predatory corporations, "American publications alarmed all Latin-America. They led it to believe that those concerns men aced the economic dominion of every government of Spanish-America. That campaign helped enormously tbe prop aganda of anti-Americanism uiat'has been carried on so successfully in all countries south of tao United tates.