THE STTXDAT OKEGOXIAX, roSlTL,AND, JTJLT 23,
1916. 7
WOMEN WIN FAME WORKING IN
AID OF, PEACE AND FOR WARRIORS
Maude Kahn, Daughter of Banker and Musical Critic, Is Great Favorite Socially Vicomtesse de Rascoigne So
liciting Aid of Americans in Work of Making Kits for French Soldiers Tickets Sold in Wall Street.
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Is a t - i " y
full, and the hips' fullness remains in
the short coats.
Smart enough are. little tallleurs of
rather large black, and white checked
wools. The short coat flares, but it
is quite loose. The shoulder line is
Ions, the armhole small and the sleeve
rather close. The jacket buttons close
to the turn-over collar, but it is ar
ranged to turn back, when one gets a!
glimpse of- a gay-colored lining.
Old-fashioned prune color and the
equally old-fashioned slate will be
among the prime favorites of the color
card. The success of these colors
during the Spring season insures'thls.
It is likely that the skirts will be a
little longer, not very much, as the
freedom of the short, easily swinging
skirt is too highly prized to be set
aside in a hurry. In evening dresses
it is another story. Though 'chie.,
the short evening dress lacks dignity
for women of a certain age and what
woman of any age but feels, the charm
of a dragging length, even if it is
no more than the width of a ribbon.
White Retains Popularity.
A white gowning is the success of
the Summer, it will continue deep into
the Autumn, and it is on these cos
tumes that fur is displayed to the most
charming extent.
A suit of linen crash has a three
gore skirt having a deep border of
checkered linen, the peplum coat has a
collar, broad reverse cuffs and pocket
tabs of the checkered material.
In a suit of serge, the skirt is a
three-gored model fastened down the
front with metal buttons; the coat has
triple straps about the waist finished
with metal buckles and made of vel
vet to match the border of the satin
collar and cuffs.
Another model Is a princess dress
combined of serge and satin, the latter
contributing the gruimpe effect, the
overdress is of the serge and the col
lar, cuffs and Jabot of linen.
The hoop ideas which came in with
so much flare in the early Spring
are in a state of near collapse. It
seems that the American woman could
not find It to her esthetic taste to
Increase the width of her hips by means
of the crinoline pads or the inserted
wires.
Thin young girls tried the farthingale
idea with more or - less satisfaction
but on the whole the times do not
seem propitious for the general adop
tion of the Spanish or the 1830 models.
Just as much material is used and
sometimes f a little stiffening is run
through the hem of the slip or founda
tion petticoat, but, generally speaking.
straight lines still prevail.
OISTE of the daintiest figures at the
flower show in New York was
that of Maude Kahn, daughter of
Otto Kahn, who made her debut last
Winter. Miss Kahn is a great favorite
socially. S"he will inherit an enormous
fortune from her father, who
hanker and managing: director of the
Metropolitan Opera-House.
Mrs. Thomas Tasrftart is the wife of
the newly appointed United Staes Sen
ator from Indiana. She is well-kncwn
in Washington, where she has been a
frequent visitor with her husband. Mrs.
Taggart was Eva D. Bryant, of Garrett,
Ind. Her present heme is at French
Lick, where her husband owns a hotel.
Mrs. C. de L. Oelrichs. - one of the
prettiest of the New York society ma
trons, was one of the attendants at the
Rockaway Hunt Club races. Mrs. Oel
ricr s, who was Marjorie Turnbull. has
been a prominent factor at Newport
since the season opened.
Florence Gilbert, daughter of Mrs.
T F YOU admire a pattern in eyelet or
X any other kind of embroidery, yet
are not skilled enough with your
pencil to copy it In free-hand; you can
obtain a good pattern in another
way. Pin a blanket smoothly around
the ironing board and over the blanket
pin the piece of linen you wish to put
the pattern on.
Now dampen the embroidered piece
thoroughly, place it ot the linen, right
ide down, and pin carefully in place
so that it may not slip. Over the
ampened - embroidery put a thin cloth
and press firmly with a hot iron until
the embroidered piece is quite dry.
On your linen cloth there will be
very clear impression of the embroid.
red design which you must trace
lightly with a pencil before removing
the linen from the blanket.
Afterward, at your leisure, you can
improve upon this tracing, copying de
tails of the embroidery and filling out
the design.
Dugmore, and Kathryn K. Bache,
daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Jules Bache,
are two of the society girls who will
have parts in the suffrage play writ
ten by Mrs. Belmont.
Mrs. W. K. Vanderbilt and Mrs. Rob
ert Bacon were two of the interested
attendants at the flower show in New
York on the day when the American
Ambulance in Paris was to share in the
proceeds of the Tea Garden. Mrs. Van- a frenzied crowd.
derbllt lives in Paris the greater part
of the tirne and M-s. Bacon, whose hus
band was ambassador to France, is
alao a frequent visitor to the French
capital.
The Vicomtesse de Rascoigne, daugh
ter of Philippe Bunau-Varilla, is here
to lecture, for the purpose of interest
ing American women in the Appul
Beige, which is at work in the Louvre
in Paris preparing kits for soldiers.
The French government gave to this
charity the use of two of the galleries
of tho Louvre and 30.000 to 40.000 kits
are being sent to the soldiers at the
front each month
Society women and actresses Invaded
the Wall-street district in automobiles
recently to sell tickets to the big ba
zaar for the allies. Mrs. Lewisohn, bet
ter known as Edna May, sold tickets to
LONG-WAISTED FROCKS MODERATE
IN LINES ARE RETURNING TO FAVOR
Guimpe Dresses of Serge With Upper Part of Sheer Organdie, Batiste or Fine Mull Are Having Revival.
Strange Inconsistency Noted in Popularity of Serge Over Either Silk or Satin for Midsummer Wear.
OMEN who can wear youthful
clothes will rejoice to know
that the slightly long-waisted
frocks are back in favor. They have
not the exaggerated line of their prede
cessors of two or three seasons ago.
With them is sometimes shown the
three-quarter length sleeve, and if the
neck is slightly low it is finished with
a sagging collarband of the fabric.
Another interesting revival is noted
in the guimpe dresses of serge, but
rith the upper part of sheer organdie,
batiste or fine mull. The guimpe may
he elaborated with fine embroideries,
but it is just as modish to have K plain
excepting for a line .of beading or a
picot edge on collar and cuffs.
It Is an odd inconsistency of fashion
that during the midsummer period
eerge should take precedence of either
silk or satin as a smart . dress fabric.
Nevertheless, this is just what has hap
pened. The best dressed women seem
to feel that silk' arid satin have lost
something of their former prestige by
becoming a bit too common. The ribbed
silks are a little too matronly in their
suggestion and moire is quite out of
the question. Therefore, serge, which
is unostentatious, practical and dressy,
has been advanced to a foremost place.
By way of trimming, the worsted
embroideries introduced early in the
season are being very definitely em
ployed. There is a special color se
lection, too, which places emphasis on
purple and on gray.
EmbroideiT Along Hem.
The embroideries are placed about
the hem of the full skirt in pryamid
outline and frequently they are sup
plemented by a narrow fringe of the
crewel. The skirts are still very full
and very short and in the majority
of instances they are gathered to the
bodice. Quite the newest varieties ad
vocate the back fastening.
There is a commendable lnck of fuss
on the Summer dresses. To be sure
they may be ruffled from waist to
hem. but the ruffles are without garni
ture and the ensemble maintains a
beautiful simplicity. This is very much
helped by the vpgue of the surplice
or fichu blouse, quaint and youthful.
The short sleeves have also been re
vived to add to the comfort and sea
sonable appearance.
The sheerest of fabrics are liked for
afternoon frocks. The color rage has
spread even unto these, and where
white once reigned supreme it now has
a rival in orchid tones, maize colors
and all the lovely cerulean hues and
the delicious pinks.
For those who like color there are
waists of straw tone, flesh tint and
real pink and blue. These colors, how
ever, will not stand sun and the laun
dry ordeal as well as the white; neither
are they as generally becoming as the
latter.
Collar Lines Modified.
Collar lines are undergoing modifi
cations. Signs are not lacking that the
old-time sailor shapes are to have their
innings again. In fact, many of the
collars, whether made of the dress
fabric or of some lingerie material,
are cut almost to reach the waist line
at the back. In front they are quite
shallow, frequently not extending more
than an inch forward of the shoulder.
The rage for striped materials for
outing costumes continues. The pity
has been that such should have been
introduced so far in advance of their
actual need as to become tiresome just
when their proper season has begun.
Nevertheless, the luxurious quality of
awning-striped patterns somewhat
compensates for their widespread pop
ularity. One finds linen less used than for
merly. For one thing that fabric is
scarcer this Summer because of the
war in Europe. Another reason that
has retarded its vogue is the fact of
its wrinkling tendency. It has been
found more advisable to use a part
cotton and part linen fabric for out'
ing skirts or for one-piece dresses de
signed for morning wear. These are
to be had in practical rookie colors
and they combine excellently with the
canopy stripes which are frequently
used for the Russian blouse or sweater
effect.
There are, however, certain dresses
of batiste or cotton voile that are bor
dered with French linen heavily en
crusted with embroideries. The linen
is of medium weight and therefore th
contrast is greater with the sheer fab
ris which it trims. Sometimes the
linen is scalloped and the embroideries
introduced in eyelet pattern.
Fancy Colors Ued.
Tricots, poplins, alpacas and tussors
are all in charming colors for early
Autumn tailleurs. Plain colored cloth
Is used a good deal for the trimming
accessories of these costumes. In soft
wools, stripes and checks are promi
nent. As yet there is little difference
in the shape of . these . first tailors
nearly all in fact all morning tail
ored costumes hang limp and straigh
of outline. But the skirts are still
BILLY SUNDAY AT WORK
(Continued From First Page.)
Copying of Embroidery De
signs Made Simple.
Simple Method Described of Getting
Admired Patterns by lie of Iron.
Dog-Eared Bag Latest Idea
in Reticules.
WILD SPOTS OF OREGON PRODUCE
BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS FOR GARDEN
Mount Hood Lily May Be Transplanted Successfully and Will Grow Luxuriantly if Properly Cared For-
. Are Valuable Decorations for Yard.
Sides Lap Over, Representing; Ears
of Spaniel, and Beadwork Is Fea
Ferns I
;,. L
. 4
Toy ,f J: v-r v g
. vwreV-Vjv-1 A oz
V.'i alAt -ttl - I" omes a mas. of beautiful, gmm.
H X & T- s x fcx wVr 1l ! I Ifeatherv follare. surmounted bv dull
i z.k y-r-- ji c; i.'; v 4 if i in.
Vyznili i fop
It becomes a mass of beautiful. -ren.
featherv foliage, surmounted bv dull
pink, heart-shaped Sowers, pendent
from Sterna that reach far above the
leaves.. It blooms from early Spring
till late in the Fall. It is found high urt
in the mountains or in the woods ori
lowlands where there Is sufficient shade!
and moisture to sustain it.
I have seen this plant by stream irJ
meadows, low-growing, and sparing iri
its blossoms. 1 have seen it in its f ul
beauty in the deep woods growing twet
feet high snd covered profusely wit
Its dark pink flowers. I have It planted
on the north side of ray house, where 1
does almost as well as In the -dee
woods. It is always cool-looking an
inviting, and mixes well with all flow 4
ers in bouquets.
0'
contains several thousand of them.
They bloom from early May till the last
of June, but in their native haunts
high up in the mountains their bios
BT Sttiwj. j. A. HYDE.
ITT In the wild mountain regions
of the Cascades, far from the
. , soming period comes far later.
hnlila In rRv-VA a. hefiutlful floral Of-I - . . . . . .j, .
Birp 1 T'y P It la 1 n n rmamnn " . , , 11 JOU are minding OX RUU 1 II K n low
ECAUSE it is beaded is no reason ferinsa damty white lily thriving In wlId plant8 to your garden, ferns are
for calling this bag a revival Of an the depths of the forest, in the clear- the easiest to get. as they grow in
old-fashioned style. Nothing exactly inKS along the streams and on the abundance along any country road that
sheerest steeps of the crags of the Coast runs through the canyons and woods
Range. On spots wind-swept and almost Rn tlme of year, though
barren that the lily bulbs often lie ex- they wil, not make much growth till
posed through the six moutns snow oi i the second season. The leaves or fronds
Winter, It will blossom to glorify its I brought home with the root will tay
green till the frosts of winter. The
Pointed Paragraphs.
(From the Chicago Dally News.)
Most men become experts at buttlnr
Sometimes it is good for I
have an active enemy. -
Nothing boosts the valno of blessing
like their removal.
Two women can remain good friend
if they don't meet often.
Silence has every other kind of '
bluff backed off the .boards.
It is easier to grasp some opportunl
ties than it is to let go of them.
Every man expects to become area
some day. but he keeps putting it off
And it's as easy for a man to breaH
a promise as it is for a woman t
break a man.
A man and his wife are different
also indifferent after they have bee:
married a few years.
The fatter a woman gets the easier 1
is for her to believe other women ar
unable to notice it-
Never Judge a man by bis relatives
instead of by hla companions. Jtela
tlves are thrust upon him, but hi
companions are usually selected b
himself.
like it has ever been known in reti
cules which Is probably the explana
tion of its vogue in Paris. It is called
the dog-eared hag. because the hanging
sections at the sides suggest the long.
drooping ears of a spaniel or hound.
Otherwise the resemblance is not ap- 1 harsh surroundings.
parent. This model is made of faille
matinee, a rich new faille silk, in a
t 1 - i - I 't
.. f its" - ' ' l
:; , -v
w. -. -
New Handbag From Paris.
i t
splendid shade of night blue, the bead
ing in cut steel.
There ia an inner bag pouch shaped
gathered at the bottom around a cov
ered button.
The beading at the top is shaped into
scallops and edged with steel beads.
Over the Inner bag and under the
turned-back scallops of the heading, is
a bead-embroidered flounce to which
are attached the long, pointed "hound's
ears," also handsomely embroidered
with steel beads.
at one side, with "Ma." The open-air
meeting was taboo.
Billy Sunday will live in the open
air. but he declares that his voice is
not equal to the task of making him
self heard out ot doors. With Mrs.
Sunday's advice he agreed to address
local churchgoers here at least once.
The local sermon by Billy Sunday has
become an annual event- It is advertised-
in neighboring cities, and hun
dreds come to hear the slang that is
offensive, according to the ideas of
many, but which causes thousands and
thousands to "hit the sawdust trail."
When Mr. Sunday arrived in Hood
River a year ago he was suffering
from nervous breakdown. There were
crow's feet and wrinkles about his
temples. Today he is apparently in
the best of health.
Retirement ot Contemplated.
"Have you ever thought of ulti
mately retiring from your work?" he
was asked.
"Xo sir, I am not going to retire. I
am going right ahead preaching and
spending my Summers here. When I
am worn to a frazzle I guess I'll have
to quit. They 11 make me. But that
time is far ahead, and I am giving it
little thought."
Perhaps the casual visitor or acquaintance-will
not notice any differ
ence at the Sunday ranch this year.
But in the inner circle of the family
there is a feeling of loss, of sadness.
For the first time since the Sundays
have been coming to Hood River to
spend their Summer vacations, Mrs.
Mary Jane Stowell, the mother of the
evangelist and Mr. Heizer. is absent.
A few weeks ago, just before the fam
ily, according to their plans, were
ready to leave their Winona Lake.
Ind., home for Hood River, Mrs. Sto
well was stricken suddenly with heart
trouble.
"Death came easily for her. says
Mr. Sunday. "It was on Sunday morn
ing that I found her. She was late in
rising, and I passed by her room and
entered. At first I thought she was
asleep. But her eyes were closed for
the last time.
"We carried her body to the old
home of my father," the place he pur
chased from the Government, and
there, according to her wishes, we laid
Bv some it is called the Mount Hood I next Spring new fronds will uncurl
uiv nth.r. ih Pant lam. while cata- and. if shaded and in good sou, will
logiies list it as the Washingtonlan. It reach the height of two feet or more,
grows along the Coast from Canada. Older plants will grow much higher
down through Washington and Oregon and adU grace and - a tropical aspect
. .v.- ..rh... nation nf California, to their su rroundin gs.
This lily has often been gathered and are itrai varieties m icrno
.li. i . i-o .torn finriista bv the I aooui i-oruanu. ine largest ana inrni-
I thousand pounds,, but now the Govern- Je- if the big sword fern. The malden
I ment protects It, as it does other hair fern is also an easy one to trans
i . ,, Pornt Reserve, plant. If brought from a dark, shady
I I locality, the fronds will invariably lie
--- -r 1 nown, put tne root win live ana come
The blossom is pure white, spotted un i the Snrlne. These are more airy
with pink or brown, turning to a deep I aa graceful than the sword ferns.
purple herore withering. land need as shaded a place as possible.
Commonly the bulbs weigh from four No garjen should be without its col
ounces to one pound, but some have i,.tm ferns. Alone with the roots
been found that weighed 10 pounds orBnouId be brought wood's soil, if possi-
more. -rnese larger duios win sena up ble but they will do very well in any
as many as 30 stalks, .each bearing g00(j garden soil. Ferns should be
from 30 to 40 blooms. Not far fromplanted under trees or shrubbery or on
roruana mere isrui on i uicbc r the north side of the house.
a n h a o .i.iv hHnr 200 Shade nerdei for Kent.
blooms. This might be called a freak, Jucn resemouns me maiatn-nair
But this lily delights in giving sur- fern is the wild bleeding heart. ' This
prises. should also be planted on the north
Out from the ' depths of the forest glde ot the house or under trees or
one will come upon a neia scattered
liberally with these lilies. . Along the
narrow trails where man an beast
travel single file grow these lilies
ithin a hand's reach. From under
fallen tree trunks they peep out. Un
derneath dying and rotting timber, cen
turies old, grow these lilies In their
magnificence, for it seems the decom
posed wood gives them increased vigor,
and here they will grow as tall as a
man and bear their 50 to 100 blooms on
a stalk.
The fields and meadows on the mono
talnsides are liberally scattered - with
flowers," acres in extent, with this lily
rearing its delicate head above them
all. One can here literally lie down on
a bed of flowers. Travelers assert it
is worth the trip just to see this dis
play of blossoms, reaching almost to the
snow line.
There are among them flowers found
nowhere else, and seen by no one but
the adventurous traveler who - braves
the steeps of these snowclad mountains.
Here grows the Bear's Grass, blooming
only once in seven years, they tell me.
but once In bloom, a sight never to be
forgotten. Other flowers, our early
Spring blossoms, the Summer flowers,
and early Autumn plants, all bloom at
once in a carnival of color. .
Rare Flower Are Nearby.
Thuit our lily has for its neighbors
the rare and delicate, th'e blossoms of
all seasons, the ferns and grass, the
tall, somber firs and cedars, the wild
bear and deer, and all the scurrying
animals of the forest. Man haunts
shrubbery. Tt does not do well where
the sun strikes it at all times of the
day. but the bright sunlight of the
afternoon will not hurt it.
A very small root of It brought from
the woods will Increase steadily till
Short Orders.
From the Columbia Stat.
It is no sign -a girl smokes beeatu
shs is anxious to strike a match-
Opportunity knocks once, but impoH
tumty Is always knocking.
hatever its defects, spooning"
least teaches a fellow a lot about asj
tronomy that he never knew before.
A cracksman's ambition is natural!
to be on the safe side.
A man is never so denso that his vrlf!
can t see through him.
When a man goes out hnnttn
trouble, he will usually find a quoru
of it in session.
There's no use trying to sat sail
the sea of matrimony until you
the wind.
Ill e
ral-
FRECKLE-FACI
Sis and Wind Brlna Ont tTsrly Spot
How to Itemovo Easily.
Here's a chance. Miss Freckla-Far'
to try a remedy for freckles with tl
guarantee of a reliable dealer- that
will not cost you a penny unless I
removes the freckles; while if It do t
give you a clear complexion - the so
pense is trifling.
Simply get an ounce of othlns do
ble strength from any druggist and
few applications should show you ho
easy it is to rid yourself of the home
freckles and get a beautiful comple
Ion. Rarely 1c more than ono oun
needed for the worst case.
Be sure to ask the druggist for t'
double-strength othlne, as this is t
prescription sold under guarantee
money back if it falls to remo
freckles.
YOU GET EVEN GREATER VALUE
A DAILY NOVELETTE.
CHARITY.
The office ought to seek' the man.
Pursue -him to his distant lodge,
And if it did adopt that plan.
Few men would dodge.
"Oh, Frieda," cried Carrie Vander-
gush, "let'a get up an amateur opera
for the benellt or tne cousins 01 me
East Bolivian orphans. Didn't the mis
sionary's tale wring your heart last
Sunday?"
"Like a towel'." shuddered. Frieda
WhirlDuff.
And the two trenerous-hearted soci- I these places but rarely timber cruis-
ety girls anj their chums worked night ers. forest rangers, the hunter and
and dav for a month on an amateur I miner and the hardier of the mountain
production of "The Prince of TarTa,'
for the suffering cousins of the East
Bolivian orphans.
II.
The orchestra bill was $450.
Costumes came to $967.
For lunches for the chorus $102 was
expended.
The coaching bill was $378, and the
man who trained the choruses got 4o6.
Extras and incidentals came to $267.
in.
The house was sold; the performance
was a huge success, and three months
afterward the hearts of the cousins of
climbers.
This lily is easily transplanted. Get I
the bulbs in the Fall, early after the!
stalks have died down. This should I
be no later than the middle of October, I
as the snows come early in the moun
tains and cover them till late in Spring. I
They will do well in any common gar
den soil, but rotted wood and leaf I
mold add much to their growing.
Bulbs can be torn to pieces and the I
separate scales planted, which will pro
duce duios. ine seeds, wmcn are Dome I
profusely on each stalk, can also be I
planted. These make bulbs, but it takes
her to rest in the old family burying I gooseberries and a dozen and
ground. J Jam tarts. Chicago Daily News.
the East Bolivian orphans were made I several years in each instance to bring
I happy by the sight of three pecks of I the bulbs to maturity.
naif I -inese lines grace a good many Port
land gardens, while Peninsula Faxk I
STYLES
300
305
307
310
315
316
318
319
321
322
324
326
344"
345
PRICE
S3. 75
At the New Standard Prices
THAN EVER BEFORE I
The slight advance ia the price of
certain Nemo Corsets represents only
a fraction of the actual increase in cost
of materials and making.
The famous NEMO QUALITY is
strictly maintained; so you are getting -MORE
FOR YOUR MONEY than
ever before. '
You may be sure that any corsets now
offered at cut trices are badly out of date or of
inferior Quality therefore dear at any frice.
Nemo Corsets set the standard for
WORKMANSHIP and DURABILITY
CONSERVATIVE FASHION UNES
SCIENTIFIC HYGIENIC SERVICE
NO SUBSTITUTE FOR THE NEMO!
AH Figures Sold Everywhere $3.75, $4 and 55.
.Tia Km HjiMi-FuUw leatitat, Hw Yark