THE STTXDAT OKEGOXIAX, roSlTL,AND, JTJLT 23, 1916. 7 WOMEN WIN FAME WORKING IN AID OF, PEACE AND FOR WARRIORS Maude Kahn, Daughter of Banker and Musical Critic, Is Great Favorite Socially Vicomtesse de Rascoigne So liciting Aid of Americans in Work of Making Kits for French Soldiers Tickets Sold in Wall Street. itva v - .......... S - - a i. " I if V I A ' - 1 . ' i ,, V -VX rTr "Cz; lT i jsrZ " 1 1 - w i L U Vr " " " I ! -; .t v v' v -. rr . .r v j I 'jr A il llfWc I-1 " ..." 1 ? .. I 7rTr ' v':-' f. Is a t - i " y full, and the hips' fullness remains in the short coats. Smart enough are. little tallleurs of rather large black, and white checked wools. The short coat flares, but it is quite loose. The shoulder line is Ions, the armhole small and the sleeve rather close. The jacket buttons close to the turn-over collar, but it is ar ranged to turn back, when one gets a! glimpse of- a gay-colored lining. Old-fashioned prune color and the equally old-fashioned slate will be among the prime favorites of the color card. The success of these colors during the Spring season insures'thls. It is likely that the skirts will be a little longer, not very much, as the freedom of the short, easily swinging skirt is too highly prized to be set aside in a hurry. In evening dresses it is another story. Though 'chie., the short evening dress lacks dignity for women of a certain age and what woman of any age but feels, the charm of a dragging length, even if it is no more than the width of a ribbon. White Retains Popularity. A white gowning is the success of the Summer, it will continue deep into the Autumn, and it is on these cos tumes that fur is displayed to the most charming extent. A suit of linen crash has a three gore skirt having a deep border of checkered linen, the peplum coat has a collar, broad reverse cuffs and pocket tabs of the checkered material. In a suit of serge, the skirt is a three-gored model fastened down the front with metal buttons; the coat has triple straps about the waist finished with metal buckles and made of vel vet to match the border of the satin collar and cuffs. Another model Is a princess dress combined of serge and satin, the latter contributing the gruimpe effect, the overdress is of the serge and the col lar, cuffs and Jabot of linen. The hoop ideas which came in with so much flare in the early Spring are in a state of near collapse. It seems that the American woman could not find It to her esthetic taste to Increase the width of her hips by means of the crinoline pads or the inserted wires. Thin young girls tried the farthingale idea with more or - less satisfaction but on the whole the times do not seem propitious for the general adop tion of the Spanish or the 1830 models. Just as much material is used and sometimes f a little stiffening is run through the hem of the slip or founda tion petticoat, but, generally speaking. straight lines still prevail. OISTE of the daintiest figures at the flower show in New York was that of Maude Kahn, daughter of Otto Kahn, who made her debut last Winter. Miss Kahn is a great favorite socially. S"he will inherit an enormous fortune from her father, who hanker and managing: director of the Metropolitan Opera-House. Mrs. Thomas Tasrftart is the wife of the newly appointed United Staes Sen ator from Indiana. She is well-kncwn in Washington, where she has been a frequent visitor with her husband. Mrs. Taggart was Eva D. Bryant, of Garrett, Ind. Her present heme is at French Lick, where her husband owns a hotel. Mrs. C. de L. Oelrichs. - one of the prettiest of the New York society ma trons, was one of the attendants at the Rockaway Hunt Club races. Mrs. Oel ricr s, who was Marjorie Turnbull. has been a prominent factor at Newport since the season opened. Florence Gilbert, daughter of Mrs. T F YOU admire a pattern in eyelet or X any other kind of embroidery, yet are not skilled enough with your pencil to copy it In free-hand; you can obtain a good pattern in another way. Pin a blanket smoothly around the ironing board and over the blanket pin the piece of linen you wish to put the pattern on. Now dampen the embroidered piece thoroughly, place it ot the linen, right ide down, and pin carefully in place so that it may not slip. Over the ampened - embroidery put a thin cloth and press firmly with a hot iron until the embroidered piece is quite dry. On your linen cloth there will be very clear impression of the embroid. red design which you must trace lightly with a pencil before removing the linen from the blanket. Afterward, at your leisure, you can improve upon this tracing, copying de tails of the embroidery and filling out the design. Dugmore, and Kathryn K. Bache, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Jules Bache, are two of the society girls who will have parts in the suffrage play writ ten by Mrs. Belmont. Mrs. W. K. Vanderbilt and Mrs. Rob ert Bacon were two of the interested attendants at the flower show in New York on the day when the American Ambulance in Paris was to share in the proceeds of the Tea Garden. Mrs. Van- a frenzied crowd. derbllt lives in Paris the greater part of the tirne and M-s. Bacon, whose hus band was ambassador to France, is alao a frequent visitor to the French capital. The Vicomtesse de Rascoigne, daugh ter of Philippe Bunau-Varilla, is here to lecture, for the purpose of interest ing American women in the Appul Beige, which is at work in the Louvre in Paris preparing kits for soldiers. The French government gave to this charity the use of two of the galleries of tho Louvre and 30.000 to 40.000 kits are being sent to the soldiers at the front each month Society women and actresses Invaded the Wall-street district in automobiles recently to sell tickets to the big ba zaar for the allies. Mrs. Lewisohn, bet ter known as Edna May, sold tickets to LONG-WAISTED FROCKS MODERATE IN LINES ARE RETURNING TO FAVOR Guimpe Dresses of Serge With Upper Part of Sheer Organdie, Batiste or Fine Mull Are Having Revival. Strange Inconsistency Noted in Popularity of Serge Over Either Silk or Satin for Midsummer Wear. OMEN who can wear youthful clothes will rejoice to know that the slightly long-waisted frocks are back in favor. They have not the exaggerated line of their prede cessors of two or three seasons ago. With them is sometimes shown the three-quarter length sleeve, and if the neck is slightly low it is finished with a sagging collarband of the fabric. Another interesting revival is noted in the guimpe dresses of serge, but rith the upper part of sheer organdie, batiste or fine mull. The guimpe may he elaborated with fine embroideries, but it is just as modish to have K plain excepting for a line .of beading or a picot edge on collar and cuffs. It Is an odd inconsistency of fashion that during the midsummer period eerge should take precedence of either silk or satin as a smart . dress fabric. Nevertheless, this is just what has hap pened. The best dressed women seem to feel that silk' arid satin have lost something of their former prestige by becoming a bit too common. The ribbed silks are a little too matronly in their suggestion and moire is quite out of the question. Therefore, serge, which is unostentatious, practical and dressy, has been advanced to a foremost place. By way of trimming, the worsted embroideries introduced early in the season are being very definitely em ployed. There is a special color se lection, too, which places emphasis on purple and on gray. EmbroideiT Along Hem. The embroideries are placed about the hem of the full skirt in pryamid outline and frequently they are sup plemented by a narrow fringe of the crewel. The skirts are still very full and very short and in the majority of instances they are gathered to the bodice. Quite the newest varieties ad vocate the back fastening. There is a commendable lnck of fuss on the Summer dresses. To be sure they may be ruffled from waist to hem. but the ruffles are without garni ture and the ensemble maintains a beautiful simplicity. This is very much helped by the vpgue of the surplice or fichu blouse, quaint and youthful. The short sleeves have also been re vived to add to the comfort and sea sonable appearance. The sheerest of fabrics are liked for afternoon frocks. The color rage has spread even unto these, and where white once reigned supreme it now has a rival in orchid tones, maize colors and all the lovely cerulean hues and the delicious pinks. For those who like color there are waists of straw tone, flesh tint and real pink and blue. These colors, how ever, will not stand sun and the laun dry ordeal as well as the white; neither are they as generally becoming as the latter. Collar Lines Modified. Collar lines are undergoing modifi cations. Signs are not lacking that the old-time sailor shapes are to have their innings again. In fact, many of the collars, whether made of the dress fabric or of some lingerie material, are cut almost to reach the waist line at the back. In front they are quite shallow, frequently not extending more than an inch forward of the shoulder. The rage for striped materials for outing costumes continues. The pity has been that such should have been introduced so far in advance of their actual need as to become tiresome just when their proper season has begun. Nevertheless, the luxurious quality of awning-striped patterns somewhat compensates for their widespread pop ularity. One finds linen less used than for merly. For one thing that fabric is scarcer this Summer because of the war in Europe. Another reason that has retarded its vogue is the fact of its wrinkling tendency. It has been found more advisable to use a part cotton and part linen fabric for out' ing skirts or for one-piece dresses de signed for morning wear. These are to be had in practical rookie colors and they combine excellently with the canopy stripes which are frequently used for the Russian blouse or sweater effect. There are, however, certain dresses of batiste or cotton voile that are bor dered with French linen heavily en crusted with embroideries. The linen is of medium weight and therefore th contrast is greater with the sheer fab ris which it trims. Sometimes the linen is scalloped and the embroideries introduced in eyelet pattern. Fancy Colors Ued. Tricots, poplins, alpacas and tussors are all in charming colors for early Autumn tailleurs. Plain colored cloth Is used a good deal for the trimming accessories of these costumes. In soft wools, stripes and checks are promi nent. As yet there is little difference in the shape of . these . first tailors nearly all in fact all morning tail ored costumes hang limp and straigh of outline. But the skirts are still BILLY SUNDAY AT WORK (Continued From First Page.) Copying of Embroidery De signs Made Simple. Simple Method Described of Getting Admired Patterns by lie of Iron. Dog-Eared Bag Latest Idea in Reticules. WILD SPOTS OF OREGON PRODUCE BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS FOR GARDEN Mount Hood Lily May Be Transplanted Successfully and Will Grow Luxuriantly if Properly Cared For- . Are Valuable Decorations for Yard. Sides Lap Over, Representing; Ears of Spaniel, and Beadwork Is Fea Ferns I ;,. L . 4 Toy ,f J: v-r v g . vwreV-Vjv-1 A oz V.'i alAt -ttl - I" omes a mas. of beautiful, gmm. H X & T- s x fcx wVr 1l ! I Ifeatherv follare. surmounted bv dull i z.k y-r-- ji c; i.'; v 4 if i in. Vyznili i fop It becomes a mass of beautiful. -ren. featherv foliage, surmounted bv dull pink, heart-shaped Sowers, pendent from Sterna that reach far above the leaves.. It blooms from early Spring till late in the Fall. It is found high urt in the mountains or in the woods ori lowlands where there Is sufficient shade! and moisture to sustain it. I have seen this plant by stream irJ meadows, low-growing, and sparing iri its blossoms. 1 have seen it in its f ul beauty in the deep woods growing twet feet high snd covered profusely wit Its dark pink flowers. I have It planted on the north side of ray house, where 1 does almost as well as In the -dee woods. It is always cool-looking an inviting, and mixes well with all flow 4 ers in bouquets. 0' contains several thousand of them. They bloom from early May till the last of June, but in their native haunts high up in the mountains their bios BT Sttiwj. j. A. HYDE. ITT In the wild mountain regions of the Cascades, far from the . , soming period comes far later. hnlila In rRv-VA a. hefiutlful floral Of-I - . . . . . .j, . Birp 1 T'y P It la 1 n n rmamnn " . , , 11 JOU are minding OX RUU 1 II K n low ECAUSE it is beaded is no reason ferinsa damty white lily thriving In wlId plant8 to your garden, ferns are for calling this bag a revival Of an the depths of the forest, in the clear- the easiest to get. as they grow in old-fashioned style. Nothing exactly inKS along the streams and on the abundance along any country road that sheerest steeps of the crags of the Coast runs through the canyons and woods Range. On spots wind-swept and almost Rn tlme of year, though barren that the lily bulbs often lie ex- they wil, not make much growth till posed through the six moutns snow oi i the second season. The leaves or fronds Winter, It will blossom to glorify its I brought home with the root will tay green till the frosts of winter. The Pointed Paragraphs. (From the Chicago Dally News.) Most men become experts at buttlnr Sometimes it is good for I have an active enemy. - Nothing boosts the valno of blessing like their removal. Two women can remain good friend if they don't meet often. Silence has every other kind of ' bluff backed off the .boards. It is easier to grasp some opportunl ties than it is to let go of them. Every man expects to become area some day. but he keeps putting it off And it's as easy for a man to breaH a promise as it is for a woman t break a man. A man and his wife are different also indifferent after they have bee: married a few years. The fatter a woman gets the easier 1 is for her to believe other women ar unable to notice it- Never Judge a man by bis relatives instead of by hla companions. Jtela tlves are thrust upon him, but hi companions are usually selected b himself. like it has ever been known in reti cules which Is probably the explana tion of its vogue in Paris. It is called the dog-eared hag. because the hanging sections at the sides suggest the long. drooping ears of a spaniel or hound. Otherwise the resemblance is not ap- 1 harsh surroundings. parent. This model is made of faille matinee, a rich new faille silk, in a t 1 - i - I 't .. f its" - ' ' l :; , -v w. -. - New Handbag From Paris. i t splendid shade of night blue, the bead ing in cut steel. There ia an inner bag pouch shaped gathered at the bottom around a cov ered button. The beading at the top is shaped into scallops and edged with steel beads. Over the Inner bag and under the turned-back scallops of the heading, is a bead-embroidered flounce to which are attached the long, pointed "hound's ears," also handsomely embroidered with steel beads. at one side, with "Ma." The open-air meeting was taboo. Billy Sunday will live in the open air. but he declares that his voice is not equal to the task of making him self heard out ot doors. With Mrs. Sunday's advice he agreed to address local churchgoers here at least once. The local sermon by Billy Sunday has become an annual event- It is advertised- in neighboring cities, and hun dreds come to hear the slang that is offensive, according to the ideas of many, but which causes thousands and thousands to "hit the sawdust trail." When Mr. Sunday arrived in Hood River a year ago he was suffering from nervous breakdown. There were crow's feet and wrinkles about his temples. Today he is apparently in the best of health. Retirement ot Contemplated. "Have you ever thought of ulti mately retiring from your work?" he was asked. "Xo sir, I am not going to retire. I am going right ahead preaching and spending my Summers here. When I am worn to a frazzle I guess I'll have to quit. They 11 make me. But that time is far ahead, and I am giving it little thought." Perhaps the casual visitor or acquaintance-will not notice any differ ence at the Sunday ranch this year. But in the inner circle of the family there is a feeling of loss, of sadness. For the first time since the Sundays have been coming to Hood River to spend their Summer vacations, Mrs. Mary Jane Stowell, the mother of the evangelist and Mr. Heizer. is absent. A few weeks ago, just before the fam ily, according to their plans, were ready to leave their Winona Lake. Ind., home for Hood River, Mrs. Sto well was stricken suddenly with heart trouble. "Death came easily for her. says Mr. Sunday. "It was on Sunday morn ing that I found her. She was late in rising, and I passed by her room and entered. At first I thought she was asleep. But her eyes were closed for the last time. "We carried her body to the old home of my father," the place he pur chased from the Government, and there, according to her wishes, we laid Bv some it is called the Mount Hood I next Spring new fronds will uncurl uiv nth.r. ih Pant lam. while cata- and. if shaded and in good sou, will logiies list it as the Washingtonlan. It reach the height of two feet or more, grows along the Coast from Canada. Older plants will grow much higher down through Washington and Oregon and adU grace and - a tropical aspect . .v.- ..rh... nation nf California, to their su rroundin gs. This lily has often been gathered and are itrai varieties m icrno .li. i . i-o .torn finriista bv the I aooui i-oruanu. ine largest ana inrni- I thousand pounds,, but now the Govern- Je- if the big sword fern. The malden I ment protects It, as it does other hair fern is also an easy one to trans i . ,, Pornt Reserve, plant. If brought from a dark, shady I I locality, the fronds will invariably lie --- -r 1 nown, put tne root win live ana come The blossom is pure white, spotted un i the Snrlne. These are more airy with pink or brown, turning to a deep I aa graceful than the sword ferns. purple herore withering. land need as shaded a place as possible. Commonly the bulbs weigh from four No garjen should be without its col ounces to one pound, but some have i,.tm ferns. Alone with the roots been found that weighed 10 pounds orBnouId be brought wood's soil, if possi- more. -rnese larger duios win sena up ble but they will do very well in any as many as 30 stalks, .each bearing g00(j garden soil. Ferns should be from 30 to 40 blooms. Not far fromplanted under trees or shrubbery or on roruana mere isrui on i uicbc r the north side of the house. a n h a o .i.iv hHnr 200 Shade nerdei for Kent. blooms. This might be called a freak, Jucn resemouns me maiatn-nair But this lily delights in giving sur- fern is the wild bleeding heart. ' This prises. should also be planted on the north Out from the ' depths of the forest glde ot the house or under trees or one will come upon a neia scattered liberally with these lilies. . Along the narrow trails where man an beast travel single file grow these lilies ithin a hand's reach. From under fallen tree trunks they peep out. Un derneath dying and rotting timber, cen turies old, grow these lilies In their magnificence, for it seems the decom posed wood gives them increased vigor, and here they will grow as tall as a man and bear their 50 to 100 blooms on a stalk. The fields and meadows on the mono talnsides are liberally scattered - with flowers," acres in extent, with this lily rearing its delicate head above them all. One can here literally lie down on a bed of flowers. Travelers assert it is worth the trip just to see this dis play of blossoms, reaching almost to the snow line. There are among them flowers found nowhere else, and seen by no one but the adventurous traveler who - braves the steeps of these snowclad mountains. Here grows the Bear's Grass, blooming only once in seven years, they tell me. but once In bloom, a sight never to be forgotten. Other flowers, our early Spring blossoms, the Summer flowers, and early Autumn plants, all bloom at once in a carnival of color. . Rare Flower Are Nearby. Thuit our lily has for its neighbors the rare and delicate, th'e blossoms of all seasons, the ferns and grass, the tall, somber firs and cedars, the wild bear and deer, and all the scurrying animals of the forest. Man haunts shrubbery. Tt does not do well where the sun strikes it at all times of the day. but the bright sunlight of the afternoon will not hurt it. A very small root of It brought from the woods will Increase steadily till Short Orders. From the Columbia Stat. It is no sign -a girl smokes beeatu shs is anxious to strike a match- Opportunity knocks once, but impoH tumty Is always knocking. hatever its defects, spooning" least teaches a fellow a lot about asj tronomy that he never knew before. A cracksman's ambition is natural! to be on the safe side. A man is never so denso that his vrlf! can t see through him. When a man goes out hnnttn trouble, he will usually find a quoru of it in session. There's no use trying to sat sail the sea of matrimony until you the wind. Ill e ral- FRECKLE-FACI Sis and Wind Brlna Ont tTsrly Spot How to Itemovo Easily. Here's a chance. Miss Freckla-Far' to try a remedy for freckles with tl guarantee of a reliable dealer- that will not cost you a penny unless I removes the freckles; while if It do t give you a clear complexion - the so pense is trifling. Simply get an ounce of othlns do ble strength from any druggist and few applications should show you ho easy it is to rid yourself of the home freckles and get a beautiful comple Ion. Rarely 1c more than ono oun needed for the worst case. Be sure to ask the druggist for t' double-strength othlne, as this is t prescription sold under guarantee money back if it falls to remo freckles. YOU GET EVEN GREATER VALUE A DAILY NOVELETTE. CHARITY. The office ought to seek' the man. Pursue -him to his distant lodge, And if it did adopt that plan. Few men would dodge. "Oh, Frieda," cried Carrie Vander- gush, "let'a get up an amateur opera for the benellt or tne cousins 01 me East Bolivian orphans. Didn't the mis sionary's tale wring your heart last Sunday?" "Like a towel'." shuddered. Frieda WhirlDuff. And the two trenerous-hearted soci- I these places but rarely timber cruis- ety girls anj their chums worked night ers. forest rangers, the hunter and and dav for a month on an amateur I miner and the hardier of the mountain production of "The Prince of TarTa,' for the suffering cousins of the East Bolivian orphans. II. The orchestra bill was $450. Costumes came to $967. For lunches for the chorus $102 was expended. The coaching bill was $378, and the man who trained the choruses got 4o6. Extras and incidentals came to $267. in. The house was sold; the performance was a huge success, and three months afterward the hearts of the cousins of climbers. This lily is easily transplanted. Get I the bulbs in the Fall, early after the! stalks have died down. This should I be no later than the middle of October, I as the snows come early in the moun tains and cover them till late in Spring. I They will do well in any common gar den soil, but rotted wood and leaf I mold add much to their growing. Bulbs can be torn to pieces and the I separate scales planted, which will pro duce duios. ine seeds, wmcn are Dome I profusely on each stalk, can also be I planted. These make bulbs, but it takes her to rest in the old family burying I gooseberries and a dozen and ground. J Jam tarts. Chicago Daily News. the East Bolivian orphans were made I several years in each instance to bring I happy by the sight of three pecks of I the bulbs to maturity. naif I -inese lines grace a good many Port land gardens, while Peninsula Faxk I STYLES 300 305 307 310 315 316 318 319 321 322 324 326 344" 345 PRICE S3. 75 At the New Standard Prices THAN EVER BEFORE I The slight advance ia the price of certain Nemo Corsets represents only a fraction of the actual increase in cost of materials and making. The famous NEMO QUALITY is strictly maintained; so you are getting -MORE FOR YOUR MONEY than ever before. ' You may be sure that any corsets now offered at cut trices are badly out of date or of inferior Quality therefore dear at any frice. Nemo Corsets set the standard for WORKMANSHIP and DURABILITY CONSERVATIVE FASHION UNES SCIENTIFIC HYGIENIC SERVICE NO SUBSTITUTE FOR THE NEMO! AH Figures Sold Everywhere $3.75, $4 and 55. .Tia Km HjiMi-FuUw leatitat, Hw Yark