The Sunday Oregonian., May 21, 1916, SECTION FIVE, Page 4, Image 60

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THE SUNDAY OREGONIAW, PORTIiA3Tl, MAY 21, 1916.
AIRY FROCKS IN BLACK AND WHITE
ARE FINDING FAVOR THIS SUMMER
White Chiffon Embroidered in Black and Black Tulle Are Combined in Fashionable Effect Premet Has Evolved
Model of Half Afternoon and Half Evening Gown That Is Much Admired.
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WUTE chiffon embroidered - in
black and black tulle, are com
bined in the airy black and -white
effect eo fashionable just now. The
rather severe, pleated bodice is mount
ed over a net foundation crossed by a
band of black net and the grirdle is
made of black net twisted into a rope.
Slack velvet accentuates the black note
on the cuff and a smart black velvet
bow fastens the collar. Parasol of
black and -white, dotted taffeta and
the modish boots of -white washable
kid in the buttoned type now preferred
If or formal wear.
Premet has evolved a practical frock
for week-end wear in a half afternoon,
half evening model of black and white
Printed taffeta, with an airy bodice of
blacl net which reveals the neck and
arms. The skirt, gathered and pleated,
is faced at the foot with witchtex and
the same resilient stiffening- is laid
under the well-pressed box pleats. The
contrast of pleated silk skirt and soft,
draped net bodice. Is pleasing-, and a
bunch of yellow flowers at the girdle
Kives a charming touch of color.
Black and white has invaded even
the boudoir, where it elbows pastel
tints from the moment's favor. Grace
ful Indeed is a Lanvin teagown of black
and white chiffon draped in long lines
over a short foundation of white plisse
georgette crepe. The selvedge edge
of the chiffon has been utilized clever
ly .,to finish the sloping drapery and
Bilver tassels drag on the floor, weight
ing the little train. Bands of black
fox fur outline effectively the sleeve
less coat of black and white chiffon.
Slow to Soften Callouses Told.
Callouses on the feet will be made
less painful if they are cared for every
night. The soles should be soaked for
at least ten minutes in warm water. A
piece of fine pumice stone is then taken,
and the hard spots are rubbed until the
soft flesh is .reached. Then they are
anointed with vaseline, and a little pad
of absorbent cotton bound on to pre
vent the grease from rubbing. In the
morning more vaseline is put on and, if
possible a corn plaster, the hole en
larged not to press on the callous, is
put around. If the latter is not prac
ticable wearing soft felt soles In the
shoes will give relief. Soaking and rub
bing is done every night, if the treat
ment is to be efficacious.
Dictates of Fashion Many.
Picot-edged faille ribbons are in de
mand. Dancing frocks of white net are elab
orately ruffled.
Many short jackets have tiny peplums
below their- belts.
The coats on the new suits flare
softly below the hips.
Ostrich feather tips of the tiniest
type are among the' prettiest millinery
decorations.
Wire, crinoline and featherbone are
nsed to extend the skirts that flare at
the hips. And when they do not flare at
that point they are bound to make up
for the negligence by an added flare at
the bottom.
MUCH CHANTILLY LACE BEING USED
THIS SEASON FOR EVENING GOWNS
Black Tulle in Favor for Trimming Lingerie Frocks Inestimable Value of Trailing Black Velvet Ribbon Noted.
Black and White Notably Smart in Sports Costumes Tea Gowns Made of Black and White Lace.
F-ASHIOX may choose to frolic . in
gay colors; she may even set her
mark of special favor on some
particular shade and make it the mode
for a season: but these whims and va
garies of hers are only the expression
of her dainty caprice. Steadfastly does
ehe adhere to one fundamental Idea
the unchanging smartness of black-and-white.
And each season, whatever
the passing color vogue of the moment,
fashion points with special emphasis
to certain black-and-white effects that
stand out from the mass of other
Btyies.
Worth, perhaps the world's greatest
couturier, who has held an unassailable
position over half a century, has so
well recognized the distinction of black-and-white
in costume that the Worth
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gowns in black and white combinations
have become famous all over the globe.
The house of Worth made the young
Queen Victoria's gowns, and a great
many of these early .Victorian toilettes
were in stunning combinations of black
and white; chantilly laces and black
velvet ribbons playing a large part in
the costumes.
The "Magpie" effe. as It has come
to be called, does not by any means
imply a harsh and emphatic contrast
of dead black and dead white, though
this contrast is often used very ef
fectively in tailored effects and in sport
wear. There are any number of soft
gradations of tone produced by veiling
white with black lace or net weaving
white and black threads together, and
the like. A well-known French actress
adheres rigidly to a particular color
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scheme in dress; she wears nothing but
black, white, blue and green, yet it is
amazing how much variety there Is in
her wardrobe pearl. Jet, silver, airy
black tulle, rich black velvet, scintillat
ing weaves of green and ellver, white
flowers with black or silver leaves
all these give her frocks and wraps a
variety of color that is so entrancing
that one never misses the pinks, yel
lows and lavenders worn by other
women.
Quantities of black chantilly lace and
black tulle are being Incorporated with
Summer costumes this season; even lin
gerie frocks of organdie and voile have
flounces and bandings of black net and
dainty black "baby velvet" ribbon floats
everywhere; An attractive afternoon
dress of white embroidered voile has
the embroidery done in black threads
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and the two embroidered flounces on
the skirt are edged with fluttering ruf
fles of black net. The white taffeta
under-petticoat, distended by two hoops
of featherbone cording, has also two
frills of black net at the edge and
the flounced frock has a very airy,
graceful effect above tall buttoned
boots of snowy washable kid. The bod
ice of tbis frock is extremely simple,
with five box pleats at front and back,
the fastening occurring under the center-back
pleat. A strip of black net
crosses the net lining of this bodice
and shows through the voile between
the box pleats. The girdle is of black
net, twisted into a rope and made into
a fluffy chou at the back. The sleeves
are made of the embroidered voile,
edged with black net frills and fall
loosely below the elbow, over under
sleeves of white' net gathered into tight
cuffs edged with black velvet ribbon,
a little bow of the ribbon finishing
each ruff at the outer side.
Another charming afternoon frock is
of white French batiste white machine
embroidery with a "broderie Anglais"
pattern in black, and wide black filet
lace insertion. On the gathered skirt
there are two bands of the black filet
lace, one at the hip and the other at
the knee, the lower band overlapping a
wide band of the black and white eye
let embroidery. A slashed coat of the
embroidery Is mounted over the ba
tiste bodice and two tabs of the em
broidery fall over- the skirts at the
sides, meeting the upper band of black
filet on the skirt. This. frock has elbow
sleeves edged with black filet inser
tion and frills of white net.
In evening gowns the combinations
of black and white are endless. Black
tulle and lace over white silk is used
in countless ways, and there are dan
cing frocks of white tulle with frills
and puffed insertings of black tulle.
Dignified gowns for older women have
skirts of black satin and bodices of
black chantilly mounted over white, a
touch of sparkling Jet adding emphasis
to the black and white color scheme.
For a debutante Premet has Just com
pleted a delightful black and white
dance frock. The skirt is of black lace
gathered very full, oer a petticoat of
white satin, on which is a band of
black satin ribbon, curved in festoon
effect. The bodice is of white lace over
white satin and a deep pointed yoke of
black lace at the back comes over the
shoulder and upper arm and is Joined
to surplioe fronts, of black satin which
cross over the bust and then pass
around the waist to form a girdle. Airy
frills of black net. attached to the edges
of the yoke at the shoulder, form very
short sleeves.
Stunning effects are produced in
sports wear by combining black with
white. Black and white striped serge
sport skirts are accompanied by white
silk coats or by white serge coats
stitched in rows and rows of black.
Black sport hats with white grosgrain
ribbon trimming are the exclusive note
in sport millinery Just now; and but
toned boots of white washable kid, or
sport shoes of white buckskin add the
final touch to these knowing costumes.
Even negligee takes black and white
for its own. and here black lace is truly
at a premium. A teagown for week
end wear has a long coat of white
Georgette crepe opening over a petti
coat frilled with black chantilly. The
coat is drawn in at the waist by black
velvet ribbon, run through slashes and
several fluttering bows of narrow black
velvet ribbon adorn the lace frills on
the skirt. Black and white is even
smarter than the traditional blue and
white for yachting wear these days.
Particularly cbic is a white mohair
yachting suit with ripple flounces faced
with black taffeta and also with the
light witchtex facing that gives the de
sirable billowy silhouette. This resili
ent stiffening is crushless and damp
proof, the latter attribute making it
especially valuable for costumes in
tended for wear on or near salt water.
The yachting coat is stitched around
the edge and at every seam with black,
and has big Jet buttons. A white straw
hat with white wings and Jet-knobbed
pins, a polka dot black and white
parasol and white wash kid buttoned
boots with Louis heels complete this
costume, obviously intended for the
yacht club veranda or a very luxurious
yacht's deck.
Rules for Sane, Living Given Out.
External Inactivities cause internal
sluggishness. In the past to cure slug
gishness of the system, medicines have
been used. But today scientists of all
schools recognize the fact that medi
cines do not remove the cause of the
trouble. Sane living and proper ex
ercises and diet remove the cause and
remake the troubled one. If you wish
physical vigor and health. If you wish
mental power, if you wish to radiate
vitality and keenness of body and
mind, not only for the way it makes
you- look and makes others feel, for
the efficiency of service It places with
in your power, and if you cannot find
the time to get out. of doors and In
dulge In good, sweat-producing, muscle
stretching games and sports, then take
the only other alternative and exer
cise at home each day. Give five min
utes to health and it will be surpris
ing how soon the results will begin
to tell. After a week of exercising
regularly, the exercises will become as
necessary to your comfort as your bath
or tooth brush. The day of the liver
pill is past; Nature Is the great doctor
of today. If you follow Nature's dic
tates, you will not only be well, but
you will find that your personality
will Improve with your health. You
will have found the Fountain of Charm.
Chicago Daily News.
(Loose Coat of English Tweed I
Is Recommended. I
Cluster Strip. Stockings Among Sea
son's Novelties Lamp Shade Col
lar Just introduced Is Nick Ad
mired. THE best sort' of coat for general
roughing-it all Summer is a loose
model of English tweed in some neu
tral shade. Such a coat, if it has
smart lines, will be presentable over
the traveling gown or even over a more
elaborate ' silk frock and will answer
for motor wear and for sport wear ex
cept on occasions when the informality
of a sweater Is called for. A coat of
this sort, cut with full flaring lines
and lined with silk to the waist, costs
(about 25; without the silk lining,
from $12 to 16. according to quality of
tweed. Particularly good looking are
tweed coats of this style with cuffs
and collar of glazed kid in harmonizing!
tone. Big pockets and broad, buttoned
cuffs add to the smartness. i
Cluster stripe silk stockings are
among the novelties. These stockings
are of superior grade white silk with
stripes In black, blue, purple, green or
old gold; they are very smart with
sport skirts of dark material, though
they are worn with silk frocks. a
pretty- pump showing off ths striped
stocking to advantage. Five dollars
a pair for these ultra smart stockings,
and soma of the sport hosiery, ribbed
half way up, is equally high-priced.
With white washable kid boots white
stockings are in best taste, and if the
buttoned boot top is of fawn or gray
glazed kid the stocking should match
exactly In tone.
The lamp shade collar. Just over
from Paris, gives an extremely chic
finish to a simple afternoon frock.
The collar has a center portion in cir
cular cut which lies flat, outlining a
round, 1830 neck. At the lower edge
of this circular collar is a knife plait
ing of chiffon which flutters over the
sleeves and bodice; from the upper
edge rises a similar knife plaiting and
this is tacked to an invisible founda-i
tion of featherbone so that the plait
ing maintains Its fluff-like position
around the neck. Being set on the
rounded-out, 1830 neck, however, the
plaiting does not rise high enough to
interfere with the chin.
WOMEN WIN PROMINENCE AND ARE
GROUPED BY NEWS PHOTOGRAPHER
Mrs. Robert Lansing Is Among "Rookies', in Women's Military Training at Washington Mrs- August Belmont
Will Lead Social Side of Racing in New York This Summer.
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MRS. ROBERT LANSING, wife of
the Secretary of State, is one of
the "rookies" in the women's
camp near Washington. With the other
women recruits, she is studying first
aid preparedness, dressed in khaki suit.
Mrs. Lansing is the daughter of John
W. Foster, once Minister to Mexico.
Mrs. George C. Squires, of St. Paul,
has announced herself a candidate for
president-general of the Daughters of
the American Revolution. Mrs. George
T. Guernsey, of Kansas, is also a can
didate. Mrs. Mary Foy is one of the four
women delegates to the St. Louis con
vention. Mrs. Foy, who lives in Los
Angeles, has been a student of public
OUT-OF-DOOR WEDDINGS IN JUNE
GIVE OPPORTUNITY FOR ARTISTRY
Suggestions Made for Decorations That Wilt Harmonize With Beauty of
and Her Attendants and For Attire That Will Be Suitable
THE out-of-door wedding is lovely
for June when the bride is youth
x ful and the season in a smiling
mood. An orchard wedding in the
country can be made one of the most
charming affairs possible, while an ex
panse of green lawn on a country es
tate, backed by a Tose hedge or a row
of statuesque poplars of- Lombardy. of
fers unlimited picturesque scope to the
artistic mind. To people this natural
stage the central figure and her attend
ants must be dressed in keeping, and a
shepherdess wedding is at once sug
gested by the Watteau styles now in
vogue.
The materials can be suitably select
ed from any number of Summer fah
rics; fine batiste, -organdy, chiffon,
crepe and embroidered mull and Japan
ese rice cloth, as well as the sheer
silks and cotton-and-silks, such as
voile. marqulBette , grenadine. etc
Printed silk marquisette in sweet pea
designs and colorings used in combina
tion with wide ribbon sash drapes In
the lovely new light tones, called "bon
bon" colors, would be delightful for
such wedding gowns. The Watteau
shepherdess type is only hinted at In
the gowns of the maid of honor, and
the bridesmaids, which have been se
lected for the use of the same lace and
a somewhat similar draping of the wide
chiffon taffeta ribbon sashes, giving in
both frocks a fichu waist arrangement
with the ribbon continuing down onto
the skirts. In the case of the honor
gown the ribbon passes below puffed
panniers of flowered marquisette, with
a ruffed "petticoat" of lace showing be
neath. In the maid frock the same rib
bon sash ends are used to catch up the
side cascades of lace, which in this
mode continues as a flounce around the
bottom of the skirt.
Watteau Hats Sua-arested.
The hats can be Watteau shapes,
worn tlp-tllted over the young faces
and massed In with flowers behind, or
picture poke bonnets can be indulged
in with long tie streamers of velvet
ribbon darker in shade than the color
of the taffeta shades. A string of
pearls gives them another note in
common.
Of course, the bride cannot trail a
satin train over the green grass, but
as short, trainless bridal gowns are
permitted in present-day fashions, thai
difficulty is Just none at alL Sheer
white silk marquisette with a hand
some embroidered marquisette flounc
ing, set on with a deep shirred bead
ing over each hip giving a modiste
touch to the very simple dislgn is used
here for the full-skirted bride gown.
The upper portion outlines the shoul
ders In a soft kimono-cut waist, folded
over surplice fashion and outlined with
orange blossoms. The veil is short and
of silk net, draped in one of the new
est ways with a high frill, set around
the back of the bead and exposing the
hair in front.
Church Demands Formality.
For the church wedding a formal
type of toilette is called for. White
satin, boavy silk, or an expensive
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affairs for many years. She has writ
ten and spoken much on public ques
tions. Recently she has been deliver
ing lectures on the fundamentals of
Government questions to women of all
political faiths. Her theory is that all
can work together up to a certain
point,
Mrs. August Belmont will be a cen
tral figure In the social side of racing
In New Tork this Summer. Her hus
band, the well-known banker, has kept
racing alive In the East in the face of
adverse legislation. Mrs. Belmont will
be seen also at the amateur racing
events and horse shows on Long Island,
In which she is much Interested. Mrs.
Belmont as Eleanor Robson was one of
the best-known actresses on the Amer
ican stage before she married. Her
quality of crepe de chine seem almost
demanded for the stately and cere
monious church . service, together with
a court train and a priceless heirloom
veil of old lace. Not but that many
brides can and do go to the altar much
more simply attired, but these are the
cherished "properties" mellowed by
long association and convention which
every church bride likes to surround
herself with, if possible, at this im
portant moment of her life. At a home
wedding the same materials may be
worn, but the more intimate nature of
the ceremony makes a less pretentious
treatment more in keeping and. a mod
erate train takes the place of the long
court train flowing from the shoulders,
while the veil though it may be of
as priceless lace is ' seldom as all
enveloping or as long.
In the model shown for the June
church bride, the material used was
old ivory satin embroidered in wide
placed groupings designed in silver
thread, pale gold thread and cream silk
thread, was here used as the full
draped skirt and the long square end
court train. The train is hung Just
below the shoulder blades, but is held
to the figure by bands of silver and
gold lace, passing over each shoulder
and along the sides of the train to the
waist line, where it turns and -outlines
the lower edge of a girdle-like bodice
of silver run lace, which is held at the
top by a fold of satin and chiffon.
The V-neck is filled in with softly fold
ed chiffon and the quaint sleeves of
pointed cut are also of this transparent
fabric. A wide band of Spanish lace
edges the full, sweeping and dignified
lines of the skirt, draped high over
each hip to disclose a magnificent under-petticoat
of Spanish lace. A wide,
drifting mist of bridal illusion is used
for the veil, as the rich brocade and
exquisite lace of this gown need no fur.
ther adornment In. the way of an elab
orate veil.
Bridesmaids Prorka Discussed.
Materials for the bridesmaids and
the maids of honor must be in keeping
with that selected by the bride her
self. If the bride wears taffeta, let the
maids have net over-dresses on taffeta
foundation. If crepe de chine is se
lected for the bride, let all gowns be
made of this to some extent, and so
on.
The Summer wedding "at home" of
fers more of a variety in choice of ma
terials. Tulle, matine, chiffon, chiffon
taffeta, silk crepe, mousseline de sole,
and even such silks as peau de sole and
peau de cygne, and soft- lansdown can
be considered.
The bride gown makes Its appeal as
containing .possibilities for the use of
a family lace wedding veil. In the
model shown the square veil of rich
old . lace had been turned into a point
ed court train by shirring one corner
up into black flare collar, held about
the neck with two satin ribbons and
allowing the two next corners to fall
each side of the frock and the third to
trail on the floor as far as It wilL The
sides of the veil are passed underneath
the arms and held at the waist line by
itwo satin ribbons, which do not, how-
best-known play was "Merely Mary
Ann."
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An April bride was Eleanor Nash,
daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Edward Nash,
who was married to Culver McWill
tams. Mrs. McWllllams is one of two
attractive sisters' feted in New York
society. Gwendolen Nash married Doug
las O'Gorman. of Baltimore.
Ten years ago Helen Tyler came to
New York to make her fortune. In ten
years she was partner of Pel wyn &
Co. in the production of "Within the
Law," which earned $500,000 the first
year and twice as much the second.
With "The Dummy" and "Polygamy."
the O'Hlggins-Ford plays, she then en
tered the play-producing field for herself.
Nature and Accentuate Charm of Bride
on Such Special Occasions.
ever, entirely encircle the waist, but
pass in through holes in the lace at
each side back and allow the train
effect to fall unbroken from neck to
edge in the back itself. The rest of
the gown is exquisitely simple, con
sisting of a finely shirred baby waist
and three full flounces of white tulle.
The shirred sleeve has two shoulder
bands of white satin and en(s Just
above the elbow in another.
Very charming, but equally simple
and girlish are the bridesmaids' frocks.
They are of tulle made over crepe de
chine, with crepe de chine girdles. The
skirt is composed of a full shirred un
derpart of tulle, plain from the belt
and the cascade draperies are formed by
the simple means of four strips of
tulle shirred in the central part of one
edge and attached back, front and at
each side to the skirt belt. The strips
naturally fall in the graceful lines,
making this one of the most success
ful draped models a modest dress
maker can undertake. The only trim
ming used is a hoop band on the crepe
de chine foundation skirt, which is
composed of silver ribbon delicately
wired and three clusters of wild rose
blossoms with sliver leaves, which are
placed on the tulle skirt beneath the
cascades and partly clouded by them.
For the house wedding the maids
may go hatless. Narrow velvet rib
bon fillets can be used to bind the hair
of each one.
HAIR GRAY? THEN
APP1Y. Q-BAN
It Darkens Gray Hair Evenly.
No Dye Harmless.
Actually does so you can see it with
your own eyes turn every gray hair
in your head beautifully dark. If your
hair is gray, streaked with gray, pre
maturely or Just turning gray, or if
your hair is , dry. harsh, thin or fall
ing, simply shampoo hair and scalp a
few times with Q-Ban Hair Color Re
storer. Every strand of hair (whether
gray or not) then becomes evenly dark,
soft, flossy, fluffy, full of life and
health, full and heavy and fascinating,
and so beautifully and evenly darkened
no one could suspect you had applied
Q-Ban. It is absolutely harmless and
no dye. Ready to use. nothing to bo
added. Give it a trial. EOc for a big
bottle at Huntley's Drug Store, 4 th and
Washington Sts.. Portland. Or. Out-of-town
folks supplied by mail. A-Uiiement,