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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Feb. 27, 1916)
.' ' Vri.-W -it" Awrr.nvTiv pm?TTln. , F'RTCTilTARY 27. 1916. " . .... ....J. nUilUAl Vl.ttiU Vtl'---') vrx..... i 1 . i : r 1 i I I POIRET DESIGNS BRETON STYLE .SILK SKIRT WITH APRON OF SERGE Contrasting Garment for Sport Wear Must Express Practical Nature in Simple Lines Popular Green or Neutral Gray Khaki-Wool Is Made Up in Smart Models With Pockets. 'fir-' X ' -ill 4 1 , K - , sNl ' ' I K1 ? V if V; if 3, V ' 7 II 1 t t A GRACEFUL, separate skirt Is made to wear with blouses of silk and lace of dainty afternoon type. The new apron drapery Introduced by Polret in his charming Breton peasant styles la the gracefully shaped apron of serge falling over a skirt of faille claHSique silk. , The apron is soft nd falls In un Btiffened lines, hut the skirt has a facing- of resilient fabric inside the hem. so that its flare is assured. At the sides the apron tapers away to a 10-inch length and is causht -against the skirt with crochet buttons and cord ornaments. tn contrast with the dressy separate eklrt for wear with lace and silk blouses, the sport skirt mnst express its practical nature in simple lines. A model from Bulloz is of wool Jersey In a soft Kreen shade much liked for grolf wearables. The skirt is cut In two circular gores and is slashed down in four places at the hip. the slashes bound with self-colored taffeta. The slashed sections, sathered at the top. are raised over the' broad, fitted belt that holds the skirt smoothly at front Soor- Sfar Sfu.e& and back, and pockets are handily placed in two of the slashes. A smart skirt for peiteral and sports wear is made of neutral gray khaki wool. a substantial silk-woven fabric much favored for sport garb. Over a very full circular skirt is mounted the narrow yoke which extends over the hips into deep wlnfr pockets, and stitched band of the material, outlin ing yoke and pockets, eiv spe cial stvle and individuality to the skirt. The pockets are interlined with a stif fening fabric flexible, yet resilient, which makes them stand out in the crisp way that pockets must these days to emphasize their important presence on the sport skirt. Feminine Fads. " Emerald green checks on a white ground are seen among the latest nov elty clothH. A one-sleeved Spanish cloak of sable i one of the fashions favored abroad Fashion has a particular weakness for the three-quarter -length coat. SEASON'S NEW FASHIONS RESEMBLE DRESSES AS SEEN IN OLD-TIME PRINTS . . - , , r Swaying Skirte Give an Enchanting Tripping Gait Modish Women Wear Afternoon Costumes With Collars High in Back but Open at Throat Styles. Now Demand Petticoats, Charming With Dainty Frills. THE season's fashions are still so interestingly novel that, while gazing admiringly at those who express the last word of them, one Is almost ready to believe that the pic tured women we have seen in old prints are again come to life. I The swaying- skirts that give an en chanting, tripping- gait; cut in shal low scallops, each one edped with tiny frillings, festoons of minikin rococco flowers in dull, artificial color, and the floating- sashes and ribbon ends, all frivolous but- fascinating nothings. At restaurant dinners and 5-o'clocks. when tailored costumes or dark one piece dresses are worn, we have no ticed that the. best-dressed women wear a lace or muslin collar higm at the back, but with open throats. Other, equally well gowned, wear the flat, round V-shaped or small, square neck finish. During the last month we have seen nothing of the all-round high stock. Of such faBhlon is well expressed, a costume of the new Rodier serge foulard, remarkable for the softness of it. in the" beautiful dark rich blue, that withstands sun and climate without changing- color. - - Knllnrsa Is la Pleat. Bell-shaped, back and front, the full ness of the skirt is laid on the sides in a few flatly pressed plaits, and the -whole 'is then attached to a round, perfectly fitted yoke. At the top edge it is curved to shape a narrow belt, and it -fastens at the back under a short lapping end that covers the clos ing hook. The adjustment ' of this skirt is but the matter of a moment. Quite as practical Is the half-long- jacket. Trim in appearance, it is of a cut so loose it is easily slipped on over a smart silk or flannel chemisette, and quickly secured by the one top button and two below, besides the two buttons that secure the hanging ends of the loose belt. The flat back, the flaring- side full ness, and the wide collar, that is cut to stand well out from the neck, and the buttoned side pockets, are marked features, all of which express the last word of tailored fashions. The bottom of the skirt and all of the edges of the jacket are bound with black silk braid. The body of the coat is lined with- silk, but to preserve the desirable softness of the skirt portion a lining- of silk voile is used. Blonnea Are Gar, ' New blouses are made of thin velvet of gay colors and covered with dark pray moussellne de soie. The sleeves jre entirely of the transparency, and the cuffs and collar are made of the gray stuff and covered with a layer of ilesh-colored mousseline de soie. - But all dresses of the present fash ions demand a petticoat, even the busi ness costume described, and these are made of serviceable taffeta, black, dark or gray I y colored. They are closely fitted to the knees, from which point thev are lengthened by a circular flounce trimmed with several plaited frills, the final frill being set inside the hem. The. sllerht stiffness gained by these frills serves to support the fullness of the dress skirt in the correct manner. The occasional glimpse afforded of the contrasting- color, and tuo frou-frou oi" the frills, are all a part of a studied plan. And the flummery 6t the new petti coats that rises in a froth of delicate textures, in charming colors as well as white, silk voiles, soft, fine crepes, mousselines de soie and laces, of which the decorations are of the same frib bling character. Frills Are CirmlnR. But how charming they are, these frills, puffings and flounces, garlanded by bunches of flowers and looped rib bons! The simple masculine mind will ask, "Are these things really petti coats?"' "Truly these things are mere petticoats, but they are intended only for dainty evening toilettes and for the new robes d'interieur. Contrasting with these daintinesses and reminiscences of a charming pe riod, are 20th century dresses and cos tumes that are, designed and carefully adapted to the realities of business life that face women as well as men nowa days. Of course, much of this is still prob lematical, and nothing will be abso lutely assured until the Paris dress makers have had their openings. And even then it may be difficult for Ameri can dressmakers to duplicate the ma terials used by foreign couturiers. Another "interesting; feature is the return of short. sleeves. Indeed, very many of the dresses designed for wear show sleeves not more than - elbow length, and finished with little flounces or narrow puffs. Such sleeves are gen erally the natural accompaniment of the very deep collar, that Is. in reality, a miniature cape, made of organdie and encircled in two or three rows with quilling or plaiting of the same. Waist Linen Normal. Waist lines continue to be normal. Here and there one notes a very long effect, but this is merely by proving the exception to the rule. Girdles of contrasting color-are showti. and some times these are tied in the- back in sash fashion. It is something of a comfort to know that on all the silk, cotton and linen frocks, advanced with an idea of their warm-weather use, the necks are low. Even the dressy afternoon frocks of silk or satin have transparent, collar- less yoke, and sleeves of chantilly lace or of net. Despite the fact that taffeta can lay very little claim to novelty, it is again scheduled for Spring wear. Dark blue is apt to repeat its -success of a year ago. Certain of French dressmakers are employing- two-tone or shot taf fetas, which they combine with chiffon crenel. The tall, straight Louis PhilHppe hat, which flashed into being, reached its apogee so quickly that the expected happened -it disappeared as quickly. Fickle fancy swerves for a moment. but soon returns to the small, round hat. of whatever shape pleases the fancy. .Simplicity Is Exacted. Only one thing is exacted, that the trimming shall-be of the simplest char acter. . A bunch of crabapples, with leaves made of tinsel, is posed on the extreme edge of the brim, or, maybe, on the edge of the crown; a"nd small, flat button' roses In faint dark shades of color are placed , prettily . about the crown of another. - The old-fashioned combination of piqk and black.' that appeared on sev eral gowns at the last openings, is successfully used In clusters of pale pink ostrich feathers on a hat of fine black straw faced -with blacK velvet. An Alpine tarn hat of soft black vel vet has. for trimming'- a single: pink silk -rose crushed among the folds. Many of the new Spring hats have a chin strap of black velvet. - There . are : also the new . feather toques. -which seem.-this. year to have taken the place of the usual flower toque, a first harbinger of Spring hats to come, These attractive bits of head adornment are as soft to the touch and as brilliant to the eye as bird Dlumage can possibly be made to be. ;Some of them, are composed solely of only the softest and downiest of tropi cal bird's breasts, while . others are made up of many humming birds' wings of gleaming gold, green, blue or purple. They are snug ana smau in snape. and have, or may not have, some small upstanding ornament of pompon feather fancy or a pair of tiny wings set like sails at back or side. BOUNTY BEARING PELTS SOUGHT BY HUNDREDS Trappers Become More Numerous and Cats, Following Game to Lower - Regions Away From Snows, Are Caught for Furs. - THERE are two means of ascertain ing the extent and- estimating the value of the pelts of fur-bearing, bocnty-paying species- of the feline family as they are found by the trap pers, hunters and official "varmint" killers of . Uncle Sam's forestry serv ice In Dousrlaa. Josephine and Jackson counties. These are at the county seats where the bounty claims are examined and audited, and at the express and parcel postofices where the shipments are made to taxidermists. Certain it is that when the trappers have made their last consignments from the remote yuiats to wboch Uitir call ing has carried them the record for the period in November of last year to the practical termination of the season in April this year, will show much . larger demand's upon the strong boxes of tne commonwealth and a greater list of shipments to the fur riers than for almost 20 "years. The reason for this activity is two-fold. The first has been the better fTrlce quotations for the hides and furs of ma.iy of the smaller "varmints" and pests, and the other is. that January's snaps in the higher altitudes caused several varities to seek havens lower down and. ibc seasoned buntera Know- ng that such would be the case met their quarry. The depredations of these animals along the head waters of the TJmpqua and Rogue rivers and their tributary creeks, have been inconsequential, ac cording to the men who ride the ranges for the Government, according to the field workers of the game wardens and the owners of stock. - Of course, there have been a few instances of the work of the hungry gray wolves who ventured from their frozen lairs within the apex of the Cascades. Recital of these has magni fied each incident out of -all, propor tions. So numerous have been the trappers and hunters that hardly any trail of an animal on which a good bounty is uid nr whose hide would be worth careful dressing, has ever been allowed to get cold. With such persistent ei fort in the part of the - hunters it sounds paraaoxtcai 10 asm --mm m lower hills have contained a greater variety cf beasts than for many sea sons. - - ' Cats Follow Game. The protected game has ventured low and the destroying cats have cunningly followed them, effacing as . far as possible the tracks that would lead to their own- destruction. .' They are wise, and according- to each observing hunter, get more so each season. This is proved by the fact that many of them overlook most . of the old lines of poisoned bait ' and instinctively they pause before any but the mcst thoroughly concealed traps. The game has been interesting to the hunters and most of them will have paid themselves wages and for their keep by what they have caught and killed before the Winter lias passed. The crafty coyote, who infests the hills of Eastern Oregon and is a menace to all through an affliction of rabies does not appear to have a strong enumera tion in the eastern hills of either of these three counties. His head carries a bounty and his pelt has a fair price, hence the trapjjers are eager-to get on his tracks. The reason for the limited number in this zone is not acounted for by the hunters, they merely observing that it 1s remark able when one considers they are so numerous In the hills to the east and In the counties of Northern California. The forestry force asserts that it is because the paid hunters in these two divisions are so particularly competent and earnest that the beasts have de termined that it is the circle from which they must remain. The method of the Forestry Service in providing hunters' on' a salary to patrol each reserve is an innovation and one which will have to bear the acid test of efficiency through a suc ceeding period. In the meantime the son of the soil who goes about these trails bearing his gun, followed by his dog and ready to stay out all night if he can find a pitch tree to make a fire with. Is full of sarcastic reference to this further evidence of Uncle Sam's paternalistic regard. They look upon it as an Infringement upon the rights of the individual and. in discussing the matter, generally get pretty well warmed up. Several, how ever., had made application for the sal aried job: The study of the fur-bearing cats of Oregon, as brought out in observing the labors of these trappers, most of whom are typical of the men made famous through a recital of earlier his tories in this and other states, makes the interesting revelation that there is stil a wide range of choice for the taxidermist, and that he by no means is compelled to rely upon Alaska and Siberia for his entire product. Of course the valuable fox pelts will not appear among this year's shipments from Oregon, or, at least, rrom me southern tier of counties, but there will be Oregon-produced muffs .and boas of marten, otter, mink, civet cats, lynx and lynx cats. And the number, when totaled, will be quite consequential, but little or no part of the record can be made up in Portland, as practically all the shipments have been made and will be made to Chicago 'and La Crosse, Wis., establishments,: whose repre sentatives have paid particular atten tion to and made special solicitations among the trappers and hunters of this section. . - Bear -Skins Also shipped. In addition to the specimens enum erated above, there will go forward from points in Jackson and Klamath oounties a number of black and brown bear skins, raccoons, coyotes, weasel, fishers, wolf and muckrats. On the lower streams the small trappers, chiefly young men with little experi ence, have done fairly well in ensnar ing the skunk family, the ring-tailed member of which has commanded a faif price. The success of many of these ama teur trappers at the short distances from their homes caused a fewto ven ture to the higher elevations, but, with a very few exceptions, they are back on the farm, content to let the bronzed and toughened trappers venture into the forests where the snows remain until Spring warmth drives them Into the streams below and the game they seek back further into the mountains not marked by trails or travel. William Horn, miner, trapper, hunt er, homesteader, who has familiarized himself with every trail and road from the prune-producing South Umpqtja Valley back into the hills of Lake and Crook counties, and is known by the denizens along any route he traverses, ventures the assertion that this Win ter, in Southern Oregon, no fewer than 500 persons have been making It a busi ness, more or less profitable, to garner the pelts of the bounty ana lur-proauc Inr cats and "varmints." On his homestead on the upper fork of Drew Creek, just over the northern divide from the famed Cow Creek, he has a season's gatherings that will make the County. Judge sit up and take notice. His place is but topical of many in the hills within a radius of "5 or 100 miles. Make Most of Cretonne, Is . 1916 Decree. IVew Window Treatment Gives Op portunity for Change, Which Is t'harmlnp . for Summer Rooms. Whole Effei-f Is Dainty. NEW window treatment gives op- portunity to make the most of cretonne that most charming drapery stuff for Summer rooms. There are lone: side curtains from rod to sill made of flowered cretonne lined with tinted sateen in the usual manner. These hang from a brass rod. which, instead of going straight across the window, bulges up in a curve at the center, where the valance la shirred over it. This valance is full tand Is in two portions, each section six Inches deep at the center of the window and 10 inches deep at the outer side, where it meets the side curtain. Cords are run through the lower edges of the section and left unfastened, to be pulled up when the valance Is ad justed. When a curtain and valance have HEADGEAR FOR SPRING MAID OF 1916 DIFFERENT Modern and Modish Sport Hats Come Forth as Picture Type, Not Depend . ent Upon Lace Ruffles, but With a Prettiness That Is Irresistible. HpiflliimMiM e Y. Y 7 I f 1 1914 1915 1 1916 Which j Year's Figure Have You? 3 11 ones in alL And foremost in corset caluc. H 7vrfieJibmaiL ofzLsmon 'e Standard Everywhere IF YOU are a regular wearer of the C B a la Spirite corset, your figure has xtr. new, deli cately suggested curve at the sides over the hips; the new flat back: the new, slightly fuller, ' higher bust in short, tlie absolutely correct fig ure for this season. Because the famous, C D line each season if foremost in style features. Just as it is fore most in its range of models over. 240 different cnes in alL And foremost in corset calut. $1 to $10 covers the whole OB line. And the $1 models are just as perfectly made a the $10 ones. Stop at any corset counter and examine the very newest CB models today just for the pleas ure it will give you. No obligation whxlsoever. "Only Gold Medal Panama-Pacific Exposition. ' limine i If "4 , m fl' V' ; - ' ' -k AtA', j-'j- -.. .V ' X' - - ".'.'. . --' THE ancient idea of a sport hat was a rough and ready affair of sturdy straw . or felt that might be dragged on anyhow, ready for sun. rain or wind. Its chief aim was to shade the eyes and incidentally to give a sporty note to the out-of-door cos tume. ' 1 Noso, however, the modern and mod ish sport headgear which began, last Summer, to take to itself airs and graces in the way of frivolities bor rowed from the picture hat. .. This year the sport hat has gone still further ' along these lines. It comes forth as a picture type of Its own. not dependent upon lace ruffles, drooping roses, velvet streamers or-any of the vanities of the picture hat proper: but with a style and smartness and a pret tinees, too, , that is irresistible. Two new sport hats are reproduced here and both are in sailor shape, one with straight brim and the other of the roll-brim type. The flat-brim sail or Is a new model of embroidered linen with band bow and brim facing the cross-stitched linen crash. The crown and underbrim are of pink linen em broidered in deep rose; the crash trim ming white with pink, cross-stitch bor der embroidery. The roll-brim sailor is of green mllan straw and : gray and green striped linen, with a pleated bow of green gros grain ribbon and a fine pleating of the same ribbon all around the crown rest ing in the curl of the brim. This is a girlish hat with particularly becoming lines and the gray-green linen with green straw and ribbon is distinctive and in good taste. been shirred to the pole and the pole set in place over the window, the outer, lower corners of the valance arc tacked to the side curtains under rosettes of the cretonno. Then the edges of the center, where the valance is divided and is only six inches deep, are tacked together. Next the cords are drawn up toward the center, tied and tucked out ol sight. This draws up the sloping edges of the valance in puckered ef fect, and the drawn-up valance brings forward the side curtain at the point of the rosette. The whole effect is dainty and graceful and suggestive of a French boudoir. Shades of the cre tonne, instead of ordinary window shades, will complete a charming win dow treatment. For the Chinese room or any other room where black and white Is desir able for background effects, there is a new window curtain material of woven black and white checks in open effect, like coarse net. Graduated black stripes in clusters cross the fabric and smart-looking curtains are arranged so that the black striping com-s directly across the valance and side curtains, about six inches from the top of the window. SKELETON ASTRIDE GOAT Students at Voontcr College IMay Series of Pranks. WOOSTER, O.. Feb. 21. A skeleton stolen from the .office of Dr. H. X. Mater was found in the Y. M. C. A. room at Wooster College, astride a goat which had been taken from-the curio room. The prank Is believed to be the work of A group of students who g.ilned en trance to several college buildings and made an effort to postpone the opening of the school. The clapper was removed from the bell at Memorial Chapel. Doors of all rooms in buildings the students entered were ioi-'ked and the knobs removed and distributed over the college campus. The Lincoln memorial statue was ac cidentally defaced while the students painted numerals on the reverse side of a tablet on the statue. Colloue au thorities are trying to ferret out the guilty ones. LATEST THING IN STOCKING Conversation Howe for Palm Beach Dames Tell Much. PALM BEACH. Kla., Feb. 20. Con versation stockings displayed by the hotel shops and seen at niKht at the ball are the latest in hosiery. Some are of hand-made lace and cost up to $100 a pair. One has a mouse at the skirt line, while its mate says "Watch your step." Another says -Delighted." while Its companion shows a clock face with the hands at 12 and the words "Good night." GERMAN TRIES TO ENLIST Young German From Toledo Applies - and Becomes Prisoner of War. WINDSOR. Ont.. Feb. 15. Recruiting officers in this city received a shock when .lohann Schmidt, a young German from Toledo, presented himself and an nounced his desire to fight for the Kaiser. When the sergeant on duty at the moment recovered his speech he grave ly inlurtutd Jobauu tbat U hv w& in the right church ho had entered the wrong pew. "Donntsr und Mitzeii!" stuttered Schmidt. 'It is not for the Kuiser uu would to fttjht l:ere enlist?" He was assured that re.-rulting fr the Kaiser was un unhealthy occupa tion In Windsor arid notified him tnat he was under arrest and would be held a prisoner until the end of the war. Apnrnxlmat-'lv Jll.eeO feel of tllliher nre em annually m.tl.-r kiiI.-h fr-tin It'-; C'liutat'li Mini TolifiUitH Nutloitul fureal" ot RECEIPT 10 DARKEN YOUR GRAY HAIR Not a Trace of Gray Shows After Applying Q-Ban No Dye or Sticky Mett Harm less. lo this Apply like a shampoo Q-Ilnn Hair Color Kestorer to hair and sculp, and dry hair in sunshine. A few appli cations like this turns all your gray, faded, prematurely gray, dry or gruv streaked Imlr to an even, beautiful dark shade. Q-Hnn also ninkis scalp ""'l tire head of hair heullliy. so hair In Ml soft, fluffy, lustrous, wavy, thick, even- ly durk and fascinating, without even a trace of gray hair showing (only beautiful dark hall ), luakliig you look young again. Insist on having Q-ltsn. as It Is harmless no dye bul guaran teed to darken all "iir gray hair or money returned. (J-Hati also cleanse the scalp at once of dandruff. ' Ask for Q-Ban Hair Color Restorer. Only SOc for a big 7-ojs. bottle. Huntley Drug Store, rortland. Or. Out-of-town folks supplied by mall. Adv. TODAY'S BEAUTY. HINT It is not necessary to rhampoo (iull so frequently If your hair Is properly cleansed each time by use of a really good shampoo. The oimlest to use and quickest drying shampoo that we can recommend to our readers may be pre pared very cheaply by dissolving a teaspoonful of canthrox, obtained from your druggist, in a cup of hot water. This rubbed into the scalp creates a thick lather, soothing and cooling In its action, as well a.s very beneficial to scalp and huir. After rinsing, the scnlp is fresh and clean, while the hair dries quickly and evenly, developing a brUht luster and a soft flufflness that makes It seem very heavy. Adv. An Unfailing Way To Banish Hairs (Beuuty Notes) Ugly, hairy growths can be removed in the privacy of your own home If you get a small original package of dl tone and mix into a paste enough of the powder und water to cover tho hairy surface. This should be left on the skin about " minutes, then re moved and the skin washed, and everr trace of hair will have vanished. No harm or inconvenience can result from thl.s treatment, but bu.euru joubuy real Uiilaluuu. Adv,