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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Nov. 21, 1915)
TJTE SUNDAY OREOOXTAy. PORTLAND. NOVEMBER 21. 1915. ' rrru trrn to believe the report of a fun. TUc woman who hcallaies at an auc tion av monrT. There's nothing like being1 ready whn opportunity knock. Some mr rchnt need larger quarter and aotne need mure quarters. It iKn't alwara the clock with the loudest tick that kerpa the beot time. No woman really cares for the kind of lore that the hero In a novel makes. A dentist finds work for hia own Ireth by depriving other people of theirs. The amateur pickpocket Is always waltln? for an opportunity to get his band In. The value of a man's advice depends upon th success he achieves by fol loln It The ue of the mosquito, Is to show us that troublea are not always In propor tion to Ihetr slxe. If one man tells a woman she Is beautiful all the rest of the world can"t convince her that she is homely. ACHIEVEMENTS OF OREGON WOMEN ARE VARIED AND PURSUITS UNIQUE School Superintending, Religious Leading, Lightkeeping, Logging, Homesteading, Turkey and Skunk-Raising Among Vocations. WOMEN OF FASHION, STAGE AND WAR PROMINENT IN RECENT NEWS Mat. nw fTdtul May Imui at Mrxicaa ilmbaaay at Wa.hinrtoit Mm. lUiatond Frrnandr. Bt Irrr, f I'aria. I- Sri for Ouri! Germ.eja "War IUby" Christen Father at Front. 5 Winter la Time to Offset Harm to Health. ItV v e-i i I r r 4 V;- ft if 1 1 ss . .. la t At 1 , - - a. f r ;"1 " ' ... N . " . '(. - . ( f '' f Mr. rtJro i:p.i:tMi i tM if. of t ctrfns4 sent at Vt i!b. IJ h 1. md Am k lr-trll aha IU Iratd er I e ll'iU an i:mby at the capl- e T be point.l out as the bet-drd oirj In Tan. l an rll! honor. TMa has ien bv te mntor f fjMor on Mme. r.ilmonj. I'crpan d. wife tf the for m-r Ml'i Am IwwJur to rris. who arrl.-t In New torn lta iMtt-H wort?! of th ltt crratior. In r! ani ! rentty. TK r l he i'ioiii durlnc th r. ir f . hrmini plar in lo a-! ,rv fie fi t l;itj.t rll"n Mo l.l. N'w orfc,. the wcfc rf Nom!r IJ. th ht anJ sown. re to be sold ton1r th ur rvi.ion Mae. Krnan 7 A . X ,1 "c' ; , ,v . - , : s'K , JJ V.- . iir PICTURESQUE PEASANT COSTUMES INSPIRE LATE WINTER FASHIONS Tilhl Ilodic-ew and Gathered $irU Sutreat Influence of Otit-of-YYay I'lacra in Europe Silver Embroidery and Lac Copied From C;y Costume of Souther! France Dutch Skirt and Brittany Bodice Travel Toicelher. Fl;U a dotion ! tfie classic and t.rln court co.tutr.es of tha di r. tolre rerlid. fa.bion bis sMfted tearkjr.; toward humMe anj pea- ant ef rr-ct. i;ery country tne hi. nitriutfil li m iar of In- rtratin to th fn.tth wardrobe of thia Winter ar.J there 1. an amu feif UP of tTfeS. na firtd the Itus- stan p.unt rr unio-t with the ar.otte-1 sr of i. an.t the tiaht I tt aim aa4 (ill (tt.. oat of th :t vttMi pajfil bin romrtntoa of a iOei itifcvt .riirn tim in the T rut ;it th. t.rt !!.- a-o piv- .).-.. t ill . ' . ittnf .ful of tr..iu it'll . n.1 whrn trvwrlv mo-4ifie4 and a l.r't fr c"-f U'tiat wear, they a r. arm all thie own. Ant tho er ul In mo.t artful . ... lh. ('tf il oian- . of .-ram t adroit: incorporated w irN Irs I r " tn - '-'- .i'.ow it cir rro-'". ad i o? an-tal ka- and a rd- rd low gir-t -i fcelp to carry out the t ar iitmi.i) of th t.ailr tislunl- .-. T1 airt s a tront M"l m:r oranco !et fmNtoW.r.4 . . I I r h nr. ton. pmJ wa.h. at th. ti a t t- f t (14 r u nh.r s I- of th- 't I anel are f.tt '..1 drare-ie of p';"' wi.low ia. in t"i hriM ri.ar ribber. yellow t the dM?.ri.. li'tel In tiera over k.r a t .lnt:t .t. .tended V stif- t'' f.nirv,: n4i-B-ath It the BO-Ji. On. f n. the ?i.'rij riitl'.il.j, raauy a .. arf of rtjji.ite M h U'a r- t a. a .."rt of hertha around a r ii e. i w-r oren,'nff l r.r.: of rhiff- one h'irni t 1 t'h.p rul' rtbotl y.iioW. ta'o t'tnia fle bod- urdr the , l-.r.rt. and a red lot f at fie i"H sm:l rom for ar. "i na Si!-" miv f : . m . . St lht M. kritlntl eoatumo Will a.-l .-j'f.cieot attention w how It l vp;iifi-, i a ta' tcKirr hofea ? e? .Ha i nod by ,t. . f j4un l -a a com., lain it. owe wlh th- f4 f-r n Th h. r- .I4J aat :.. Th- ai-eow a moi oto if 1 ft e:i.' an J . lri.k.i , ... . in .Coorz d.s. th. proceds to be u.ed for the .lt:.hmnt of an orphanaae in I'an.. wh-r rhild"n cf womrn whooe hu. bands lao br-n klllf.l at the front, ai l be rared and educated. ... Tt'e baby of the Croe n Prln-e of Crrmany I f e .tiijr duhlT of the lirtrran hr;r and hia mltr. and la known a the irman "war bab"" allhouch ahe haa bn rhritrncd ".Vlevandrln." !(,! b!ld h aa born and chrls Irn'd whil. hr fatl-r. the Crown--rln. I r.dtrl. k. at tne front. I'rtnr (Vriii a mothrr-ln-law Is the .m:rr of tlrrmany. r.ole Q"lnn I ti e lalt ounc ad-1 ditlon to the Winter liirden forces. I boureoi- built of rhecaed glncham or oven of frilled lawn, no di.ciple of the mole would deign to wear it with a formal ro.tume or for the matter of that, with any ctiief costume but the ai.ron built of silk net with a border ef .lve lace and pockets represented by chiffor. ro.et.ud-. Is null a differ ent affair It a.M. untold charm to the dance truck and lr. dinner gown and .trre.se. tho fashionable pea. ant Idea in dre.a In the most distracting!? co quettish way. in of the daintiest dancing frocks ef the a n show. thl. apron devlco nioat rffectlvsly Irtrod ;ed. The frock has widely gathered skirt of palest pink pua.y wlliow taffeta embroidered at th anate with crystal beads. The bodice, ai.o of p:nk puy willow, rum. Joan t:ow lh wal.l in a long point, and bonlnc in.tde the seams aitr. a trim porfertion of fit. sug gestive of th tieht pes.ant bodice wore abev a full. ga:herd petticoat. Th boned, pointed bodic I square nocked at. J .l.evcl. ... and unlrneath I. a cutmp of while tulle, s.lt.r m bfoUitr.il with sleeve made of strip, of th lull tied around the arm above th ;-. T.e adaptation of th con ventional peasant ro.tum. full skirt, tichl and and while gathered tucker beneath. 1. .a.itr perceived. Tut th rrownin- touch la th MM. apron of livr mbroMrd pink lull which fail over th front of tl skirt. uMrr th deep point of lh bond bodice. Th apfoo rtt'-i-t. almo.t to th hem ef the art. lu.t e..ar!ns Ita border trim ming of try.ial bead. Th wa.hrrwoenan swtrt Is another mot f lei ion of humhl peasant modea. ' .a bltncheu." thia drapery t. railed In fan., and it Imitate th urkd-up ptticot of lh washerwoman In moal l.nrut rcann.r. A ftblnc little ilasnitnt. tro-k tor thvater and r.s I. ur.nl wear ha this bianrhu skirt. Tt full skirt of light blje pu..v willow turn bark upon ll-elf to .how petticoat of wMi lace, lac turnv't-up skirt being faced most lux urioualy w ttu irj.lal embroidered t ' .. ft .Ik' 'A r . V 7C or 5ir77?2s?! Arrz Gtancio The Winter Garden Is the training arhool for youna: slnrs and dancers. It was thrr that Warllynn Miller flrat arpared. Honip Is hrr mffwor In the mi show and lnas and dances to the areal satl-fartion of her audiences. Ko.le la one of t'' persona whone l.are leaa shocked Mayor Mllihel at the flret performance and she now covers l.er knees with silk. see Mrs. John T. Hpreckles. Jr.. and Mr. Ppreiklea are upend nff their honey moon at Corona. lo Heach. Cal. Mrs. Sire.kle wss Mis Siril Wirt, of Ksn- as t'llr. tlaiiahter of the late Kdward I Wirt. While studying fur her ca reer In grand opera ehe met "Jack" Ppreckles. who Induted her to abandon the life of a star for that of a wife. Cora Marson. of Paris, hns designed a charming and attractive evenlnii cap of gold tloth. made In a poke shape with the h.wi.l of a bird which is anrltMl in L-nlrl tlnnrev fealhora nr- I ranced In circular form make of this evening cap a charming and beautiful head dress. white chiffon over pale blue. Th lace petticoat flounce which reveals Itself to a 12-inch depth is exceedingly full about elht yard, around, so thai the gathered lace falls in soft folds about (he ankles. Inside the tucked-up washerwoman skirt Is a light strip of fealherbone which holds the silk skirt out from the lace flounc In a very coquettish effect- This frock has a bodice made of a few wisps of flesh pink tulle over the shoulders, and a broad, drapod girdle of the pale blue taffeta, which rises above the bust. llorrowed from an earlier century Is an Kngli.h peasant costume of flow ered pussy willow In Imitation of sw.el old Kngllsh delaine. The skirt la looped up at either side to show a petticoat of silver lace, and the fitted bodice boned slightly underneath, haa a quaint Knslish fichu of whit tulle over which Is arranged a festoon of old-fa.hloned flowers, field poppies, tiny pink Kngllsh daisies and b'.ue cornflowers. The decolletage Is square and the sleeves, rather tight. rca-h to the elbow wl.ere there are widely flaring frills of whit tulle to match t:i fi. hu Naturally, the Dutch type la a favor ite In the peasant adaptationa for the costume of Holland and the Nether land has a particularly picturesque quality. An afternoon frock which shows Dutch suggestion, la built of navy blua faille cla.slque, a lustrous ribbed stlk of soft but substantial quality. The gathered skirt, short enough to display a dainty bufloned dancing boot, haa trimming bands of navy biu velvet, each edged narrowlv with skunk fur. There are two bodices for vry Holland woman wears bodice upon bodice which ha much to do with th clum.lnesa of th Dutch flgur. related lharaarapha. Krom Chicago News. A lishl die: is the best boatd of health. , fvia men are so skeptical that tbey C-asBBlraJoaj May lie Kept Freeh by Hecalar Dally Kaerclwe la Some f'eraa. COPMKTIC-FAIItNESS Is a poor sub stitute for the peaches-and-cream complexion which nature bestows. Back from the country radiant with health and good looks, came maid and matron, too. a few weeks aso: and already steam heat, lack of fresh air and exer cise, late hours and over-indulgence In rich viands begin to tell their tale In lack-luster eyes, bleached skins and sallownesa. unly the debutantes with their un spoiled freshness can stand the pace, and even the iilrl In her second season begins to look fagged and faded by mid-season. Winter Is the time to so In for exercise, bathing and diet fadu to offset the Injury being insidiously done to one'good looks by luxurious Indoor living. Through the Summer one Is out of do .rs so much and exerclsins so regu larly that over-eating Is not as dan gerous. In fummer. also the pores are kept open by natural perspiration; all the air possible Is allowed In the sleeping-room at night, and the complexion has the benefit by day of sunshine and freMl breexes. Kegular exercise should be taken every day In town, whether In the form of a three-mile tramp, a canter on horseback, an hour at the skating rink, or In going through systematic exer cises In one's room. Tho warm bath on arising should be followed by a cool shower and brisk rub If a cold plunge Is not enjoyed. At least two hours of every day should be spent out of doors, and at night windows should be thrown wide open, even If this necessitates a flannel nightgown and sleeping cap. Hot breads, pastry and sweet, rich cakes should be avoided: crisp rolls or toast moderately buttered may be taken at breakfast with coffee and soft-boiled res. Tea and tuast. after the English fashion, at the 4 o'clock "hungry hour." are much better than the American Ice cream soda or the cocktail and caviar sandwich, which sophisticated feminine taste Indulge In at "afternoon tea" In a fashionable restaurant. Quantities of celery shoulJ be eaten: IcMuce is valuable as a complexion clearer and ro Is endive, which helps rid the sys tem of bile. Onions are an Invaluable aid to beauty and an onion eaten two or three times a week at night will do wonders for the skin. Chafing Dish, Little Stove and Percolator Enough. Ja of l.labt ll.aaeaeeplac Takea to sall Apart Bleats by Msaple Maderst Devleea. MANY a woman, living In a two-room-and-batb apartment and taking her meals In an adjoining pub lic dining-room, yearns at times for something "home-made" and delicious: chocolate layer cake, for Instance; or scalloped oysters, or old-fashioned mo lasses cake, or soda biscuit, tender and piping hot and made rich with a lit tle shortening. One woman condemned as she expressed It to live In a lux urious hotel apartment most of the year, satisfies her housewifery instincts by getting Sunday night tea In her own apartment, by aid of a chattng dish, a coffee percolator and a one-burner gas stove with a little oven about aa big as a baby's hatbajc. It Is surprising how many delectable things can ha baked In this absurd lit tle oven. Out of It come small layer rakes, pans of light biscuit, toothsome little drop cakes, small pans of piping hot Sally Lunn and rich glnget bread, for the Sunday niaht supper. The lit tle oven bakes only a small quantity, enough biscuit for four persons, twice around, and layer cake which makes only six good-sized slices; but the Sun day night opportunities to have a taste of real home cooking are much appreel ated by privileged guests, who also dwell In boarding places. No woman with fastidious taste and thought for her neighbors would venture to cook steaks or fry potatoes in an apartment-house where odors of cooking are not supposed to permeate but creamed entrees, salads, baking of the sort referred to and various appe tizing scalloped entrees may be pre pared by aid of chafing dish and a lit tle oven of the sort. These small ovens may be used on electric grills also, and rare Is the woman who docs not enjoy an occational "cooking-fest to keep her hand In at housekeeping . $300 MONTHLY TOO LITTLE Woman Afks for More Almotir, aa She Cannot Puy Bills. MlfMMT'liPP Win Nov. 13. Mrs i.ri. n i.-iliv of rhlcai;o. divorced wife of Frederick Lully. New York manager of the Crane Company, of Chicago, declares she cannot set along on I3V0 a monin. mie nas peimoneu Judge Halsey for an Increase in ali mony. tir. l.llv ohtnfned her divorce In i 1 1 ... ii l A a in ions. nftar fiavinr been told by her husband, she alleges, to "go v est and gel a divorce. vi inai time she told the court her husbands Income was 110.000. Now she alleges his Income Is between 120.000 and 150, OuO a year. GEORGIAN IS RAINMAKER Dead Illackanakc Is Hung on RnMi anil I'rvx lpltatlon Follow. LYKP.I.Y. Ga.. Nov. IS. Colquitt Chamberlain believes be Is a rain maker. A few days ago he killed a large blarksnake and hung It up In a bush. A shower came up and gave him A wetting before he could reach shelter. A dny or two later he moved some hay. and this, he thinks, brought another tain. Now people In every section are kill ing snakes and hanging them up and mowing bay to bring rain. x-xfllor of $300 in Broke." MINXKAPOLIS. Nov. IS. John Elli son, a farmer from Hope. N. D.. In SU I'aul Tollc Court on a vagrancy charge, explklned that he went to a bank Saturday with a saloonkeeper and deposited 3". but has lost the certifi cate of deposit, forrotten the name of tii sal mnkeeper who took him to the bank ami also the name of the bank, auil so is yvunilcss. A0 Kfcv ' v A 'a ue, aaAat ..i f -.rr u , an, via a. Tins -iswii sst.si i a TIT ALFRED POWERS. THERE U almost nothing that Ore goi women are not (Joins. They J- have proved that sex Is no bar sinister to any occupation. Their in dustrial activities are not circum scribed by any narrow conventions or traditions. In this commonwealth of equal opportunities women do every thing. A partial view of what Oregon worn en aro doing shows among them i County School Superintendent, a School Sujitrvijior of one of the wildest sec tions In the state, o Christian Endea vor superintendent, a police matron, a lichtkeeper. a logger, a homesteader a turkey farmer and a skunk farmer. Miss Fay Clarke, a girl still in her middle 20s. a County School Superin tendent of Malheur County. Under her guidance the schools of that ex pansive county arc fast ueinii social lied, standardised and fitted definitely to their environment. Miss Clarke graduated from the University of Ore gon only four years ago. Nobody can doubt that she is rendering the state value received. Another Builds I p Schools. Mips Goldie Van Bibber, another Uni versity of Oregon girl, during her three years as Scl.ool Supervisor of Western Lane County, accelerated the sluggish progress to such an extent that in three years she really did a dozen years' work towards the up building cf that section, its roads and churches as well as its schools. In that country Miss Van Bibber's name Is a household word. By foot, by boat or mounted on her little grray pony, through all kinds of weather, she vi.sited her 33 isolated i-chools that stretched in an Irregular line 300 miles long. In every economic way within (he broad boundaries of her community she cxnlsed a bis and constructive leadership. Miss Uertha Porrls, still another1 I'nlversitv of Oregon girl, is city matron at Eugene. Since she took over the Job the prerogatives of the position have increased about a hun dredfold. One of her monthly reports Is an Illuminating record of what a city can do with the right kind of leader. She is possessed of observa tion to see and aggressiveness to carry out Miss Opal Whiteley. who is only 17( SASH LENDS YOUTHFUL TOUCH TO DANCING DRESS Girlish Suggestion Given by Big Bow Posed at Back of Waistline Nine Loops of Various Lengths Used in Creation. a.aaa ". .... ft- ---e-t :: " "C""'s ' a V-a 'J ; :' ae-- 4.J Pl -'w--' I , ; , , r, v f J- ' ' A : ? l ; i T i . ! i - 1 K -y J yA u . 4 1 W I t9 J W Vw J EVKV SASH MUST BR AN excellent example or tne moa rn elaborate sash which lends youthfulness to this Winter dancing freck is pictured in mis arrangement of ribbon and fur. There is always a girlish suggestion about a big sashbow posed at the back of the waistline and r h new dance frocks are thus decorated; though the sashbow is usuT ally raised a wee bit aoove tne waioi line. the deep V of the decolletage ex- nding downwara to meet, ins .v.- i.-r-u I heautlful young and fair and foftly dimpled the V-siiaped decollrtu-'e is not filled in with tulle or lace; but most evening frocks show t rt. .IiiVi Vslsstiia Yfi'ftT M years old, is superintendent of the Oregon Christian Endeavor Society, with a membership of something; like 1300 people. Miss Whiteley lives nt a losginir camp on Row Kivcr, near Cot tage drove. The beginning of her spiritual leadership was when she or ganized a Christian Endeavor Society, a "Church of the Best Licks," in the little logging camp. At that time she was only 13 year; old. Mrs. Mattie Coleman, Christian, mother, pioneer, with only .10 in money, a shotgun and a wacron and team, enme half way across the con tinent from Oklahoma to Oregon, pur- Fl'R TRIMMED. some slight "modestie" of the sort, usually of flesh pink tulle or chiffon. The sashbow pictured here is of pale pink satin ribbon edged with fox fur, the fringe of fur being set between two layers of ribbon, so that both sides of the bow are alike. Nine loops of various lengths has this smart sashbow and the method of tying attests an expert's skill and art. Thetse fur-trimmed sashes are made also of pussy willow taffeta, of golden rod satin and other soft silken stuffs that go into danee frocks. Sometimes the edge of the silk which is always cut on the straight, not on the bias Is corded before the narrow border ot fur is stitched in. il L's w.faa VeS i iwn -tu ,IU I ' 1 J - F- i, ; I , -Ni. t L . j snins her tedious way like the pioneers of old at the rate of 20 miles or so a, dav, camnirs at nishl with her five lit tle" children, the oldest 12. the young est a babe in arms. After a long, solitary horseback trip through tho Siuslau- forest s'n' Tiled on a home stead on Upper Maple Creek. 12 miles fi-om i.'.lenada. Back in Oklahoma the poorhouse had beckoned with its love less charity, but it beckons no longer. Against the greatest odds Mrs. Cole man won a home for herself and chil dren. Another woman homesteader worthy of mention is Mrs. W. S. Southworth. of Canyopiie, Or. There is an old proverb to the effect that one should pray as though lie were going to riio tomorrow and work as though he were going '.o live always. To the philos ophy of the latter part of this proverb at leist Mrs. Southworth heartily sub scribes. She has a homestead in Bear Valley. She says she looks forward to the time when her homestead will he fullv developed, so that in 23 or HO years she will bo able to retire and live easily for the rest of her life. Mrs. Southworth is now 75 years old. Mrs. Bcattie. of Coos Bay. owns a logging ramp. which she personally runs. Her philosophy is that if you want a thing we', eione do it yourself. She is perfectly at home with axes, saws, peavies and donkey engines. She can fall a tree where she wants it or draw a crosseu. unaided through a pitchy hint. She attends to the marketing side of the business and attends to il so I well that her profus are substantial. I She hr?s men and hires them and sees I that they do their work. But she is more diplomatic and less sulphurous ' tongue 1 in exercising- these proprietary I ,,iii-ii....s (Inn :i man is. Her em ployes lind her a congenial and highly satisfactory loss. ea Light Kept bv Woman. For one year Mrs. Alexander served as second assistant liuhtkocper at Cape. Blanco L.n-ht. in Curry County. A third of each dark and lorn ly night she stood her watch- daily she helped lo clean the big lens, and in cheerful solitude she occv-pied the l,ig Oovt rnmelil dwelling assigned to her. Miss Anna Huntington, of Yoncalla, raises about 2"0 turkeys each yeai. Miss Huntington w ill Mnisii high school this year. She then expects to teach school. She says she can make niue.i more money raising turkeys than she ear. teacning. but she has chosen t li 3 latter occupation because it will en able her to develop her personality more. But she says if jobs prove scarce or anything like that, she is glad she knows how to raise turkeys and to raise them profitably. Perhaps the occupation most unique and unusual of all is that of a Douglas County girl who purchased lock. stooK and barrel her brother's skunk farm. She says it is a highly lucrative busi ness. DIVORCED COUPLE REVVED Pair Klojie Just as They Dill Nearly Two Decades Ago. NEW YORK. Nov. 17 Nineteen years ago Miss E. May Miller, of Kast Orange. N. J-, eloped with Ceorge Lord, of Arlington. Recently, in the municipal chapel. Manhattan. they were wedded for the second time. They were divorced in August, 1913. "George simply couldn't get along without" me that's why we're here to day doing again the same thing we d.d 19 years ago," Mrs. I,ord said, after the ceremony. "We lived happily together li years. In that time a man and woman come to know each other so well they are almost a single person. Their lives are so closely interwoven each with the other that if a break comes well, it means more than we ever realized. "What we regret today is that we have been separated for two years. And we are certain nothing is ever go ing to separate us again." Lord is a provision dealer. He is i I and iiis v ife 3'1. There are two chil dren a boy and a girl who are un derstood to have figured largely in the reconciliation. DEFENDANT WHEELED IN Invalid Woman Is Accused of Grand Larceny. MINNEAPOLIS, Nov. 13. Mrs. Archie Bell 2610 Stinson boulevard, was brought into District Judge H. D. Dick inson's court in a wheel chair to an swer to a charge of grand larceny in the first degree. She pleaded not guilty and was permitted to go to her home with her husband, who is jointly in dicted with her. No bail was required by the court. Mrs. Sarah Davenport. 72 years olu. mother ot the invalid woman, also un der the same indictment, was permitted to go without bail. Alphild Svlander. complaining wit ness, alleges that a trunk containing clothing and jewelry worth . 14.10. which she left for safe keeping at the Bell honii last July while she was in. Hopewell Hospital, was stolen. The trunk and its contents have been turned over to the police, untouched, according to Mr. Bell. He said he was at a. loss to understand the cuarise.