G
THE SUNDAY ' OREGOXTAX, PORTLAND, APRIIi 18, 1015.
TAILORED COSTUMES OF CORDUROY
ARE USEFUL ON LONG MOTOR TRIPS
Woman Who Motors Also Requires at Least One Charmingly Pretty Gown for Dinner and Evening Wear When
She Stops at Hotels En Route Pussy-Willow Taffeta Is Always Suitable.
IF one is taking an extended, sight
seeing motor trip, an informal but
smartly-cut tailored costume of cor
duroy will be a useful addition t the
outfit. Over this, if the weather is cool,'
a loose topcoat may bo donned in the
car. For the motor tourist was buiit
tailleur of dark-blue corduroy with its
loose, belted coat and short skirt,
slashed and snap-fastened at the side
seams, so that it may be used for oc
casional climbing if the trip is through
a mountainous country. The soft, com
fortable motor hat is of blue pussy
willow taffeta, faced with white, and
the very attractive touring costume Is
completed by the new high walking
boots of white buck, with snappy
stitching in black.
The woman who motors requires at
least one charmingly pretty, gown for
dinner and. evening wear in hotels
where she stops en route. The dainty
Rown pictured was designed expressly
for this purpose. Of soft pussy
willow taffeta in pale tan shade, and
butterfly marquisette of the snme tint
It may be folded into the automobile
trunk without danger of injury. The
lace bodice unci tunic are creamy in
tone, and cream-tinted goldenrod satin
was used for the flat cuffs and for
the upper part of the skirt, under the
transparent layers of cream lace and
tan butterfly marquisette.
This dainty blouse of taupe-colored
goldenrod satin and daphne silk will
add formality to the tailored skirt that
with a simple tub blouse was informal
and correct with the motor coat in the
morning. Taupe goldenrod satin forms
the graceful surplice front which ex
tends into a pointed, draped girdle.
The bolero and shirred sleeves are of
taupe daphne silk, airy and sheer as
chiffon, but much more durable. Tliree
folds of the taupe satin edge the bolero,
which is mounted over cream pussy
willow taffeta. Folds of , cream lace fill
in the V-neck. The girdle starts around
to the right and is an extenson of the
surplice front, which snap-fastens over
It at the opposite side.
SOME SECRETS OF HEALTH
Wonderful and Beneficial Results
Shown In V. S. Xavy.
Saturday Evening Post.
TVhenever any group of people living
In one locality or engaged in one oc
cupation show unusually good health
or unusually bad health, doctors are
SPRING MOTOR WRAP IS SENSIBLE
AND ROOMY AND THING OF SERVICE
j . . . .
Slim-Lined Coat Makes Way for One in Three-Quarter Length With Flare at Bottom in Pronounced Contrast
to Close Lines at Shoulder and Neck Covert and Shepherd Check Among Materials.
TWO things commend the Spring
motor wrap of 1915. It is smart.
And it is sensible. Roomy in pro
portions, with a jaunty swing at the
edge, or fullness belted in at the back,
ft has low shoulders supporting invit
ingly wide, comfortable sleeves. Its
collar turns snugly or may be turned
down to form revers. Snappily stitched,
the enormous pockets and well-placed
buttons, it is a thing of joy and serv
ice and is verily the happiest idea In
motor coats that the years have
brought forth.
The long, slim-lined wrap for the
automobile seems to have had its day,
or at least it has been laid aside for
Spring and Summer, and it may appear
again when limousine season comes
round in the Fall. But at the moment
motor coats are in three-quarter
length, almost invariably, and the Hare
at the bottom is in pronounced con
trast to the close lines at shoulder and
neck. This closeness does not. how
ever, mean skimpness or snugness; the
material is simply cut to produce the
effect of. smallness at the shoulder,
with lines flaring steadily outward to
ward the knee. Some of the new coats
have a Balmacaan suggestion and are
distinctly mannish and "sporty." Others
have the fullness mostly at the back, a
broad, closely-adjnsted belt controlling
this fullness and giving just enough
definition to the figure beneath to make
a graceful silhouette. There is never
any bulkiness about these new flare
coats, for they are so cleverly shaped,
and . their Jauntiness and grace, , more
over, are due in no little degree to the
keenly Interested, because if the cause
can be discovered there may be secrets
disclosed that' will aid in the world ef
fort to increase the span of life.
Professor Metchnikoff's studies of the
shortness, of the frock, which displays
slender ankles and prettily shod little
feet below the skirt-and flaring motor
coat. -
The most distinguished motor coats
are of covert; but a really good-looking
covert coat . is rather expensive and
many women prefer coats of mixed
worsted in neutral tone, or of shepherd
checked serge, cut -on the prevailing
lines. A covert cloth motor wrap in
which an Easter bride departed on her
honeymoon had all the fullness at the
back, the gathers being covered by the
overlap of a narrow stitched . yoke
scarcely deeper than a collar. The
fronts of this coat were perfectly flat
and a wide stitched belt passing all
around the low waistline gave just the
right flat line to the full back. This
coat had enormously wide sleeves gath
ered at the wrist in bishop fashion un
der a turned-back cuff, but the top of
the sleeve was set perfectly flat into a
low shoulder. - A lining of green a"nd
white striped pussy willow taffeta gave
the requisite touch of good cheer to this
sport coat.
The shepherd check coats are Im
mensely smart, but they are so popu
lar at the season's beginning that the
woman who invests in one may be sorry
later on, when she meets her replica in
almost every car she passes along the
road. The large block checks are
most effective in the sport type of coat
designed for automobiling. Sometime
these coats are unlined or there may
be a lining. of bright-colored pussy
willow taffeta or of satin.
The Summer motor coats - are not
arousing so much 'interest just yet, as
longevity of certain groups of Bulga
rian peasants have been .of great prac
tical value to physicians everywhere,
and the study of beri-berl among Orien
tals has disclosed the dangers of too
limited diet, deficient in some essentials
of food, which had never before been
definitely understood. The excessive
meat diet of the Kskimos has come In
for study, while a recent Scotch Inves
tigation, which has attracted wide at
tention, was based on the apparent
greater prevalence of cancer among
Scotch people who lived in districts
where coal is burned.
The officers of the American Navy
have been pointed out as a remarkably
healthful class by Dr. I. L. von Wede
kind, commanding the hospital ship So
lace, and he has advanced as the ex
planation the fact that these officers
drink distilled water when on sea duty.
The health records of the Navy show
that the officers are remarkably free
from old age or premature old age trou
bles.
Hlood pressure tests show such line
figures among the officers that !r. von
Wedekind declares Navy officers to be
youths at 65 years. Blood pressure in
creases with advancing age and high
blood pressure for one's years indicates
abnormal conditions, though not neces
sarily serious conditions.
The Navy officers give figures rather
under the normal. Hardening of the
arteries, the old age disease, is mark
edly absent in the Navy, and in 1913
there was only one death from apoplexy
among all the officers.
On board Navy vessels distilled water
Is used almost exclusively and Dr. von
Wedekind's studies have convinced him
that this is the explanation.
Perpetual Peace Sign.
Pathfinder.
On the boundary line between Argen
Una and Chile, 12,000 feet above sea
level, there has been erected the Christ
-of the Andes, a huge monument in com
memoration of the peace treaty be
tween the two countries, which was
signed under the arbitration of King
Ldward of Great Britain. The statue,
which was built through the co-opera
tion of the two countries and was un
veiled in 1904, has for a base a huge
block of marble, on the sides of which
are inscriptions pledging perpetual
peace between the two countries. The
base Is surmounted by a large bronze
figure of Christ, one hand holding the
cross and the other raised as if to give
a blessing.
the heavier models for Spring wear
must be all wool, for Spring often sends
chilly days and nights. Some good
looking Summer motor coats are being
shown, however, and they are all In
the sporty, semi-mannish lines now fa
vored. An admirable model is of mo
hair and worsted mixtures in golden
tan color, with lining of checkerboard
black and white pussy willow silk. This
coat has an extreme flare cut and is
tailored like a man's smart box coat.
The collar may be turned down on the
shoulders or snap-fastened high about
the throat in military style. Motor
coats of khaki-kool. a delightful all
silk weave, heavy enough to take ex
cellent coat lines, are being shown by
exclusive tailors.
These khaki-kool coats are most at
tractive in a pearly white tint with
huge "buttons of white pearl. They are
shown in sand and putty tones, in gun
metal gray and in tan striped with nar
row lines of navy blue. A coat of the
latter sort has. a double-breasted front,
huge buttoned-down pockets and wide,
effective collar and cuffs of the ma
terial. Inside is a lining of navy blue
goldenrod which gives just the right
color touch to the striped tan and blue
coat.
Few women now wear the long, heavy
motor veil of chiffon, swathed about hat
and head, except on long tours, when
dust must be kept carefully from the
skin. In town a small, smart motor
hat, not a bonnet, anchored adequately
with a well-adjusted face veil, is con
sidered enough protection to complex
ion and hair, for such trlns about town
'are not for long duration and ravages
to the complexion may be speedily re
paired, whereas on a long trip one may
have to face wind, dust and sun for
hours and hours at a stretch before the
soothing balm of warm water, cold
cream and talcum can freshen the skin.
White veils are particularly liked with
the motor coat and hat, for they are
more informal than the black face veil.
There is not much choice in meshes, as
far as protection of the complexion is
concerned, as none of these veils ac
tually protect the skin from flying dust.
Either an octagon mesh or one of the
new filadora or trellis patterns, ar
ranged neatly and pinned back closely,
will be correct. Floating, bordered veils,
though smart with street costumes, are
not proper for the automobile.
Under the loose coat Is worn a tai
lored trotter frock or a separate skirt
in one of the new flare styles and a
blouse. Usually a dressy blouse of lace
r net, or, better still, a. little frock of
5ussy willow taffeta, which does not
crumple, is carried in the small auto
trunk strapped to the tonneau, so that
one may have a dainty change of cos
tume for dinner. It is not necessary to
carry extra footwear, for the daintiest
of buttoned boots and pumps may be
worn In the car. Little actual walking
is done by the motorist on tour and it
is better to wear one's pretty boots and
carry, if necessary, tramping or sport
shoes for country wear.
Cretonne Dresser Is Dainty
in Summer Bedroom.
LonK Mirror Reveals Xearly All of
CoMtnme at Glance, While Smaller
Ones Reflect Hat or Neekwear for
Scrutiny.
ALL sorts of charming bedroom fur
nishings are made with white-
enameled wood and flowered cretonne,
and to the list of screens, window
boxes, hatbox receptacles and so on,
has been added the cretonne dresser,
which will be ideal for a cretonne-furnished
country bedroom.
The foundation is of white-enameled
wood about as hign and broad as an
ordinary bureau of the type which has
a long glass, and sides with small
drewers which rise about the center
section. The drawers are cretonne
covered boxes which slide easily in and
out when brass handles are pulled.
There are two small . drawers at each
side for gloves, veils, handkerchiefs
and other small belongings, and two
long, deep drawers (or' cretonne-covered
boxes) for blouses and lingerie
below.
The best part of the dresser is its
triple mirror, framed in white enamel.
From the tall mirror In the center in
which almost the entire costume can
be seen at once, two smaller mirrors
pring out even with the top of the
small drawer sections. These smaller
mirrors swing on hinges and may be
moved so that every angle of the head
and hat. or the coiffure and neckwear
may be carefully scrutinised.
The shoD which shows this attractive
Diece of country-house furniture will
supply the dresser in any desired pat
tern of cretonne, but it is specially
dainty in rose-sprinkled French cre
tonne, or In a wistaria pattern in lav
ender and pale green.
Touchwood Superstition Is
Now Put in Jewelry.
Charms, Scarf P 1 a a, Fob and
Brooches Now Afford Refuge for
IloaNtx.
tC HAVEN'T had a cold this season,'
I you say and then, remembering
the dire consequences if you are su
perstitious of such boasting, you
look nervously 'rund for something
wooden to tou -h.
"Thank goodness little Johnny has
never yet had ear-ache." sighs a caller
and instantly yoa urge: "Oh, my dear
tuoch wood!"
Some enterprising soul has turned
this well-known superstition to profit
and now one may always have a handy
bit of wood to aert hovering bad luck
when boasting is indulged in. The
new charrr ia called "Touchwood" and
it conies in the shape of grotesque
little figures made up into scarf pins,
watch fobs, lace pins, brooches, hat
pins and tie clasps. Sometimes "Touch
wood" is a funny little man with an
exaggerated wooden head: sometimes
it is "Mrs. ToucVwooi' with the gro
tesque her J perched on petticoats.
This invaluable charm against ill
fortune may be had for the modest
sum of a quarter.
As the "News" Reaches Turkey.
Constantinople Servet-i-Fuuoun.
. His Islamic Majesty Wilhelm II has
made his state entry into the con
quered French capital. In celebration
of the victory over I'aris, his Majesty
made a speech from the throne in the
former French Chamber of Deputies.
After its conclusion he offered the im
perial hand to be kissed by the French
ex-Deputies, who were deeply touched
by his magnanimity.
Mushroom Parasol Is Just
the Thing This Year.
Colors Are Rest In Cream and Rrown
Tonca and With Suit to Match
Scheme Is Very Effective.
THE mushroom hat may have de
parted from favor, but the mush
room parasol is very much the thing
this year. One of the new models is
pictured and it will be seen that the
curving of the silk cover under the
ribs gives the edge of the parasol a
thickened appearance that, in combina
tion with its curving top and the
handle, which answers for a "stem,"
the effect is not unlike that of a giant
mushroom. The color suggestion is
also present, for this particular parasol
' 1
i;
Mew Sunshade Like Bis Mum.
i
Room.
is In cream and brown tones, the handle
being of brown carved wood, with a
brown silk tassel and the cover of
brown and white striped brocaded
satin.
With a tailleur of tan khaki-kool, or
a frock of cream net worn with a hat
to match and stockings of natural silk,
this brown and white mushroom para
sol will be very effective.
y ........... ...........?
llillllllll!
FACES OF WOMEN PROMINENT IN
PUBLIC EYE GROUPED FOR READERS
Frances Staunton Peck Engaged Before Debut Kaiser's Daughter Shows Maternal Instinct Blanche Shoemaker
Waggstaff Is "Poetess of Passion" Parisian Seeress Gains Renown War Predictions Far From Correct,
mm i m awfl II 'J H
: ' Y ffli V
: J ' 4f . v .....rt V
fi' M n;'4
1 ' -jfsst :
NEW YORK, April 17 (Special.)
Though a debutante In New York
society this Winter. Frances
Staunton Peck has already announced
her engagement to Vivian H. Egleston,
of Chicago. She is a daughter of Mrs.
Thomas Bloodgood Peck, formerly of
Philadelphia.
If anyone doubted that the Duchess
AMIABILITY URGED AS
TRAIT TO BE CULTIVATED
Barbara Boyd Tells Reasons Why Some People Are Cut Off From
Pleasures They Might Otherwise Enjoy.
m WONDER why the Mortons didn't
I invite their Cousin Lucy to
" spend the Summer with them
as usual in their camp in the Adiron
dacks," remarked a woman to a little
group of friends ensconced in a cozy
corner of a club
plaza. "I under
stand she is not go
ing with them this
Summer."
There was silence
for a moment. Then
a woman spoke up
rather hesitatingly.
"It is not especially
kindly to gossip
about one's friends."
Barbara Boyd.
she said, "but I happen to know why
Lucy wasn't invited this year. The rea
son set me thinking in a way that did
me a lot of good: so perhaps I won't
be gossiping in the ordinary sense if I
pass it on."
"Of course you won't," laughed the
women. "And if you are. we will ex
cuse you. We want to hear."
"We all know Lucy," smiled back the
woman, "and her oddities."
"We certainly do," agreed the little
crowd.
Fumlnrx In Disliked.
"In camp she just fusses and com
plains so much that Mrs. Morton told
me she and her husband couldn't stand
it any longer. And so they decided
not to invite her again. In a way I
felt sorry for Lucy. A Summer in the
Adirondacks is delightful. I know Lucy
has thoroughly enjoyed her Summers
there. But she has shut herself out
from this pleasure just by little un
pleasant traits, which no doubt she
could correct if she would. That is
what set me to thinking. 1 wondered
if I was shutting myself out from some
good by some of my "ways." "
For n minute no one spoke. Then one
DYSPEPSIA GONE! NO
Time It! In Five Minutes 1
Sick, Upset Stomach
Feels Fs"
ur
When your meals don't fit comfort
ably, or what you eat lies like a lump
of lead in your stomach, or If you have
heartburn, that Is a sign of indigestion.
Get from your pharmacist a fifty
cent case of Pape's Diapepsin and take
a dose- just as soon as you can. There
will be no sour risings, no belching of
undigested food mixed with acid, no
stomach gas or heartburn, fullness or
heavy feeling in the stomach, nausea,
GAS
SOURNESS
of Brunswick had Inherited the ma
ternal instinct from her mother' the
Kaiserin, he has only to look nt a pic
ture of Victoria Luise with her first
born. She has recently borne the Duke
another son, scarcely a year after the
birth of her rlrst baby.
The new Marchioness of Londonderry
was Lliith, daughter of the Right Hon
orable Henry Chaplin, a member of
Parliament, when she married Viscount
Castlereagh. Lord Londonderry's son, in
1899. They have several children, of
whom Lord Stewart (now Viscount
Castlereagh), born in 1!I0, is the heir
to the title.
Blanche Shoemaker WagstafT is the
wife of Alfred Wagstaff, Jr. She is
also a poetess of passion and a woman
of advanced thought. She in purt
of the women said, "Now that you
make me think of it, I know several
just such cases. A friend of mine has
a sister who lives in a boarding-house.
My friend would be only too glad to
have her sister live with her If the
wasn't so fault-finding and quarrtl
some. Rut she says it would simply
spoil the peace of their home, and so
she can't do it. That sister is shutting
herself out from a delightful home life
for my friend has a lovely home and
lots of friends and social affairs. Hut
the sister cuts herself off from it all by
being so disagreeable."
Srlrinhnm Not Tolerated.
"I know another woman." went on
the speaker, "who is so insufferably
conceited that people do not want her
about. Her own affairs nil the whole
world for her. What she is doing and
where she is going and how success
fully she conducts her business she is
a business woman are all she talks
about. People just quietly let her
alone."
"When you consider It. there is cer
tainly a bit in the idea to think about,
isn't there?" spoke up one of the listen
ers. "I have often wondered why an
acquaintance of mine never is asked
about more. But she is the sort of
person who Is always making unkind
remarks or those would-be clever ones
that hurt people's feelings. And she
is always contradicting people and ar
guing with them. So of course lots of
folks don't like her."
"When you come to think about It,"
remarked the woman who had first
called attention to the matter, "there
are lots of 'Lucys.' But after all, the
thing that most concerns us Is whether
or not we are shutting ourselves out of
some good by some disagreeable habit
of our own.
"Since I have been studying the mat
ter," she went on, "I have discovered
that people who have characteristics of
this sort as a rule are perfectly uncon-
INDIGESTION,
-PAPE'S DIAPEPSIN
debilitating headaches, dizziness or in
testinal griping. This will all go. and
besides, there will be no sour food lett
over in the stomach to poison your
breath with nauseous odors.
Pape's Diapepsin is a certain cure for
out-of-order stomachs, because it takes
hold of your food and digests it Just
the same as if your stomach wasn't
there.
Relief in five minutes from all stom
ach misery Is waiting for you at, any
drug store.
These large fifty-cent cases contain
enough "Pape's Diapepsin" to keep the
entire family free from stomach disor
ders and Indigestion for many months.
It belong in your home. Adv.
owner of a mapnzinc of revolt pub
lished in New York and one of its inont
frequent contributors. The W'agstafT
can afford to revolt and be pnpHionste,
for they are wealthy and beautiful.
Mrs. Wagstnff lives at the St. Kegia
Hotel in New York.
Mme. de Thebes Is the famous "seer
ess" of I'aris whose prediction con
cerning public events are regarded by
Parisians as wonderful. All that she.
had s:iid about the war so far has
turned out incorrect. She had the
Kaiser killed ofT several months ago
and the war ended before January I.
1-Jvery time anything important hap
pens in the world, however, someone is
pretty sure to bring up some prophecy
attributed to Mine, de Thebes mid dated
back several months foretelling tha
event.
k lous of them. Lucy doesn't realize
how annoying her fusslness is."
"You are perfectly right there," In
terrupted one of the pnrty. "This sister
of my friend hasn't the faintest idea
why her sinter doesn't have her to live
with her. She complains among her In
timate friends about her sister's sellish
ness." "Yes," replied the other. "They never
blame themselves for being shut out.
They usually blame the one who shuts
tnem out.
"But if one Is unconscious of possess
ing such qualities, naturally he would
not blame himself." DrotesteH one of ih
listeners. "How can one till the fault
Is at one s own door?"
"All I can suggest."' responded the
first speaker, "is to judge by results.
If we find we are being gently side
tracked by our friends, let's honestly
look for the esuse. Let's watch our
lve.. listen to ourselves and see If we
are becoming unplemantly critical or
fussy or fan 1 1 find I n g or self-assertive."
"It wouldn't be a bad idea." agreed
the crowd. "Since we all admit wo
know puople of this sort and that they
are more numerous than one would at
first suppose, perhaps it would be Just
as well to look home and see If any
of them are under our own roof-trees."
Rently whlli ffnliier through a rniterv
In a (-Mlirornia town the visitor rum upn
this on a tnmlmtDin". "i wvuid not lle
ulway.-' I):i.-aih iha 1 1' script in .me Ir
reverent pMfon hnd pn-l!eI. "Konr Grapes "
Freckles and Blotches
Are Easily PeJed Off
If you are bothered with any cutane
ous blemish. Its a poor plan to use
paint, powder or anything else to cover
it up. Too often this only emphasizes
the defect. Besides. It's much easier
to remove the disfigurement with ordi
nary mereolized wax. Applied nightly
the wax will Kradually remove freckles,
pimples, motli patches, liver spots snl
lowne.ss, red blotches or any surfaeo
eruption. The affected cuticle J ab
sorbed, a little each riav, until the clear,
soft, youthful snd beautiful skin be
neath Is brought wholly to view. Ask
the druggist for one ounce of mer
eolized wax .and ue this like you use
cold cj-eani. Kemove in morning with
soap and water. Many who have tried
this simple, harmless treatment report
astonishing results.
If troubled with wrinkles or furrows,
a war.h lotion made by dissolving 1 oz.
powdered saxolite in "i pint witch hazel
will prove wonderfully effective. Ad v.
A SKIN OF BEflUTT 15 JOT FOREVER
Dr. T. FELIX GOURAUD'S
ORIENTAL CREAM
CR MAGICAL BEAUTIFIER
Remove Tan. Pim
ples. Freckles,
Moth Patches. Raab
and Skin Diseases,
ud every blemish
on beauty, and de
fies detection. It
has ntood the test of
66 and is so
harmless we taste
it to be sure it is
properly made. Ac
cept no counterfeit
ot Mmilnr name.
TT. T. A. Say re said to a lady of the hautton
a patient): "A you ladies will u;e them. I re
commend '6surau"s Creaai'as the least harmful
of all the skin pre(-raUons." At druftvisul
and Department Muirv
Firl T. Hopkins & Sin, hnps 37 fret! jam; SL,H.Y