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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Dec. 20, 1914)
6 TTTR FTTTTDAT OT?TCGONTAN. POTfTLATTO. : DECEMBER 20. 1914. RAGE FOR FURS IN PREVAILING MODES IS MORE PRONOUNCED THAN BEFORE As Season's Demands 'Would Bankrupt Persons in Moderate Circumstances. Combinations of Soft .Material Are - Found Useful in Setting Off Trimmings to Advantage. iff ; p,l t 7 f V 1. 1 QUITE early In the establishment of the season's modes it became evi dent that furs would be used to an extent greater than ever before. In fact, to be quite up to the demands of fashion Would require the furs of a Czarina, so luxurious are the uses of fur this Winter. In order to make a reasonable amount of fur give the ap pearance of a great deal more, soft fabrics are often, combined in muffs and ecarfs. Thus a fitch set is cleverly combined with Brown Georgette crepe, the muff being lined with white pussy willow silk and the collar closes with a snap fastener under the crossover. It is considered correct now to have a. collar of skunk, fox, chinchilla or some other contrasting fur on the seal ' coat, or. In fact, on any coat of fur, whether it be seal, ponyskin, caracul or Persian lamb. Hudson seal (clipped . muskrat) trimmed along the deep col lar with otter makes a handsome coat. A crescent-shaped muff of draped seal Is also trimmed with a band of otter. The wide flare of the coat is emphasized by a narrow walking skirt below. Quantities of tiny moleskins are con sumed In the making of a voluminous wrap which is draped up gracefully in toga fashion toward the right shoulder. The collar of ermine, with huge but tons of moleskin, appears to hold up the neavy folds of fur drapery and two of the deep folds 'form the sling sleeves. Inside which shows the wrap-lining of FUR COATS OFFER A SOLUTIONS F PROBLEMS OF CHRISTMAS GIVING Creations Cover Wide Range of Effects This Winter and Moderate or Limitless Price Articles May Be Had in Quality Much in Favor With Fashionably Dressed Women. THIS Is going to be a practical Christmas, even with folk who can afford to spend generously at the gift season; and when the hus band or father whose Christmas gift will represent several hundred dollars makes a practical selection, the gift is likely to be furs, or diamonds whose Intrinsic value never changes. Most women, nowadays, however, prefer nandsome furs to diamonds, for one must have fur to be in the fashion, and diamonds are always something one may reasonably look forward to, if good fortune holds out. Fur fashions change bo rapidly, also that the coat bought one season is likely to be out of style another season, and in two years must be entirely made over or renewed. Usually It is renewed. In the case of a woman who may indulge her fancies for one tires even of expensive seal and ermine and the new fur coat 1 apt to be of quite different pelt from the one selected a few 'seasons before. Seal and Broadtail Favorite. Santa Claus is busy now picking out real coats for Christmas giving and these coats range in price from moder ately priced models of near-seal, which Is really good-looking fur when well made up in smart shape, to the hand somest French-dyed Hudson seal, trimmed with some contrasting fur Jike skunk, chinchilla, otter or fitch. Hudson Beal. as everybody knows. Is really sheared muskrat dyed to a rich seal brown or black, for the darker a seal is the handsomer it Is. Genuine sealskin is extremely rare because ot the ban on seal-killing two years ago. Some day genuine sealskin coats may again be obtainable, but meanwhile woman is well content with the beauti ful French dyed muskrat which meets every requirement of fashion. Breitchweltz, or broadtail, i another aristocratic pelt which only a favored few can afford to wear. This lustrous black fur is so soft and light in weight that a long wrap of it is not at all burdensome, and broadtail is sp supple ill I " y ?os&Astt II a -ii f (S '; -v. . I worn with an afternoon frock of black If!IS& - -1 ' velvet and dancins boots with buttoned ?S i "' ' '; . tops of silk brocade. nil - V ill IL" 4 if s: i:f . " Hi Un ' I c ' - 1 violet-toned nocturne satin. T,hla wrap, also suitable for evening wear, is to be that it is made into entire costumes, combining coat and skirt. As a rule, the cheaper a fur Is the heavier it is, and the broadtail or Hud son seal coat will be much more com fortable to carry about than a simi larly made model of caracul or near- seal. Cheap Grades Worthless. Caracul coats come in various grades, and the cheap grades are not worth buying. They are made of tiny scraps of skin sewed together, and these scraps are apt to tip apart and cause unsightly rents in the coat which only an expert can repair, A woman who paid $35 last Winter for a caracul wrap and thought she was getting a tre mendous bargain, is sadder and wiser now for she has doled out many dollars to have that coat mended. It literally fell to pieces after three months' wear and she never wore it out without hear, ing the friendly admonition: "Oh, my dear, did you know your coat Is- ripped? What a pity; you'll have to take a stitch when you get home.'-' - i Cheap caracul is also unbecoming to the average woman, for the heavy curl makes the figure look stocky and clumsy; but a fine caracul Is a beauti ful fur and should give excellent wear. Moire pony is a high-grade fur for coats and wraps, but cheap, shiny pony skin of coarse texture is abominable and one would far better content her self with a Winter coat1 of cloth with ful collar and muff than to wear one of the glossy ponyskin coats that never looks anything but common. Christmas Coats Are Coquettish. The fur coat of this year is decidedly different from anything that has ever been turned out In fur heretofore. It is a rather gay and coquettish affair withal, making the upper part of the figure slim and girlish, but flaring or rippling out at the knee. Sometimes a belt controls the ripple at the front and often a belt runs all the way around, giving the Russian line so much in fa vor now. The smartest fur coats have collars and wristbands of contrasting BABY UNMASKS MAGNATE Charles M. Schwab, Booked Incog nito, Exposed by Infant's Cry. NEW .YORK, Dec. 12. A hungry baby, yelling lustily for food, disclosed the fact that Charles M. Schwab, steel magnate, was the "J. M. Ward" who sailed today on the Lusitania for Lon don. The iron master booked -passage under the name of "J. M. .Ward" and made his way without discovery to his stateroom door, where he stopped on seeing a baby sleeping in his berth. The -noise of the opening of the" state room door awakened the infant. Schwab protested vigorously to the purser, who, was passing. . The Incident attracted the reporters, who recognized Schwab Asked if his recent conversation with Secretary of State Bryan, regarding his reported sale of submarines to Eng land, had been satisfactory to his bus! ness, the steel magnate said: "You'll have to ask Mr. Bryan." Mr. Schwab will return to America on the Lusitania. fur and one may choose any pelt one pleases lor the trimming. Blue fox is Ideally lovely with broadtail and moire pony coats; skunk Is distinctive on seal coats. Chinchilla, squirrel, otter, ko linsky, fitch, blended sable, lynx and other furs are used as trimming, but little ermine should be added to the fur coat; at most a tiny cravat at the inroat. Evening wraps of fur differ from street coats In their softlv drar.ed li Seldom is the severely tailored effect seen in a fur evening wrap which may have toga-like folds caught up at one snouioer, a deep cape or hood at the Dack, or be in the form of a eonuettlsh little mantle or long scarf to wind about tbo-fihoulders. These fur scarfs are much fancied for theater and res taurant wear and some of them are inree yards long, so that they may be wound round and round the fitrur in various eccentric graceful ways. A huge muff to match the scarf is part of the theater and restaurant set. Ermine is the most popular pelt for these sets, but less costly sets are made of white coney, ,wnicn imitates ermine very Beaver Sets are In Favor. Matinee sets of beaver are much In favor, for this soft, dainty fur is very fashionable now. Blue fox Is another modish pelf and a great deal of this lovely fur is seen on the well-dressed matinee girls who throng out of the theater entrances on Saturday after noons, jcsiue iox is more fashionable than fitch this Winter, though fitch is still much worn because of its high quality and its harmonious distinction wun velvet taiieurs. SEA ROMANCE HITS REEF Wife Says HJashlnff Suitor Eloped With, Actress. liars CHICAGO, Dec IT. Miss Alma J, Kranz, of Chicago., was traveling in Europe in 1912, when she met Herman D. Lapp; the dashing young son of a wealthy manufacturer of Grata, Aus tria, Mr. Lapp appeared to ha.ve no other aim or ambition In the world than to spend as quickly as possible the monthly remittance check he re ceived from his father. He followed Miss Kranz from water ing place to watering: place and It was a sad leave-taking for the young Austrian when the Chicago girr an nounced she was about to sail for home. Lapp, however, turned up on the liner Miss Kranz was returning on. They came to Chicago and were married on October 9. 1912. They went East on honeymoon and took apartments at the Plaza Hotel in New York. A week later, Mrs. Lapp charges. her husband met a German actress he had known on the Continent. This actress was versatile in naming her self. In Berlin she was Cazllie Daha, elsewhere Mrs. Elsie Dahn. ot Mrs. Emille Scherbatow. Mrs. Lapp charges her new husband struck up quite a friendship with the actress and bought her wine suppers and jewels. When she returned to Europe, she says, he went with her. V Mrs. Lapp filed suit for divorce, ask ing for alimony and her maiden name. Bunny Slippers Ready for Little Bare Feet. Absence ot Black Stocklnea In Kew - York Christmas Displays Is Strik ing: and Katural Silk Is Still Pop- N EW YORK. Dec 19. (Special.) Bunny slippers of gay red felt are ready to tuck into the children's Christmas stocking. On each slipper toe is .a charmingly alert rabbithead.N with cocked ears and the warm fleece lined little slippers are exactly the thing to cover little bare feet during the bedtime frolic hour. , Beaver fur grows more and more fashionable and who would have dreamed, a few months ago, of wear ing beaver again? The soft, dainty pelt is 'used for collarettes and sleeve edg ings on frocks of pussy willow silk and on tailored frocks of white cloth. Sometimes a broad band of beaver bor ders a ripple tunic, but of course- this lavish trimming is exceedingly expen sive, i us oiuer woman sxiouia ligni. rather shy of beaver, however, for its delicate fawn color Is becoming only to fresh, youthful complexions. This seems assuredly the era of the snap-fastener for-all, the new blouses and many of the season tail leurs close with these easily" adjusted, convenient little affairs. Women who adopt new devices un willingly cling to old-fashioned fas tenings, but there is one being who thanks his stars for the easily manip ulated snap, and that is the long-suf fering husband who is often command ed, "Please do me up the back. Among the Christmas silk stocking displays one is struck by the absentee of black hose. Clocked and embroi dered black silk stockings are sold for wear with all-black evening costumes. but for other wear colored stockings are the thing, tinted stockings one should say; and the smartest of all are the tintless stockings of natural silk, whose creamy, pale tan tone ac cords smartly, with bronze or black footwear. Dainty Chapeau Effects Be coming Frame for Face Tnrban-Shaped Hat at Drawn Folds ot Kliiny Cotton Gausc tor The ater Wear. THIS distinctly, dainty little chapeau was among the Interesting exhib its at the show, of cotton-made wear ables for American women recently held in Washington. The hat, which is in tended for theater and evening wear, represents by its shape and design, a blossoming cottdn boll inverted. -The turban shape is covered softly with raw cotton, and over this ,are drawn folds of filmy cotton gauze. gathered up and fastened at the center of the crown. This gathering is com pletely hidden under the leaves of black velvet which curl down around the cotton-boll like the calyx of a flower, and a wired black velvet stem completes the illusion. The edge of the turban is finished with a brim of black velvet, which makes a becoming frame for the face. ' Explosions In South Africa. London Standard. Large quantities of explosives are manufactured in Natal and the Trans vaL "Fake" Christmas Greens In Are in Bad Taste. If Real Holly and Mistletoe Cannot Re Obtained, Use of Red Crepe Paper and Paper Bells Is Good Plan. rpHB department stores abound at J, this season in imitation holly and mistletoe, but there Is something about these frankly "faked" Christmas sym bols that seems to 'Jar upon the sen eibllities and the sentjment of the woman who cherishes good, old-fash loned Christmas traditions. One might kiss beneath the imita tion mistletoe, but the kiss would cer talnly lack something and be a rather forced affair, without the magic of mistletoe about it at alL And, though Daoer holly may be as cheerfully red and green as the genuine -sort, with Its glossy, spiky leaves, its Christmas cheer is, after all, artificial, and the Christmas spirit it Incites must par take ever so little of its hypocrisy. Far better, if one cannot obtain real holly and ,real mistletoe, to deck the house with garlands or rea crepe paper, red paper bells and bows of gay scar let ribbon, and let it go at that, than to pin up the meretricious wreaths of "fake" green and the spiritless cluster of "fake" mistletoe. One woman achieves an effective Christmas decoration each year by pur chasing for SO cents or so a medium- sized Christmas tree from her grocer and then cutting it up into small branches to bank along the mantles and stick behind pictures. A bolt of holly red ribbon, tied in fluttering bows here and there among the green, and the effect is splendid, indeed, and replete I . 1 " I- J . . , .. .li A :: ; rfJr 1 1 I: L .. . '.' ,v i ........'. WOMEN WHO FIGURE IN HAPPENINGS OF INTEREST POSE FOR PICTURES Mrs. Albert Cummings Well Known to Children C. S. Heyneman Brings Eride From War Zone Princess Elizabeth's Husband Decorates Kaiser Mrs. Davies Loses Husband Who Has Fainting of Her. 9 . X "J .-s -- stwr '- Cujtirrizr?acr M RS. ALBERT CUMMINGS, the wife of the Senator from Iowa, probably is better known to the children of the United States than any other woman In official life, except the members of the President's family. She has been for years the president general of the Children of the Ameri can Revolution. In spite of her official social duties at Washington, Mrs. Cum mings has found time to visit many cities in the furtherance of the inter ests of the society and she has in creased its membership greatly. . Mrs. Charlotte Davies has been through marriage twice, but according to the courts she still is only once a legal wife. She was Charlotte May burne, of Cleveland, and won a prize in a beauty contest in her home town. Then she became a model for New New Tailored Suits Take Ten Years Off Woman's Age. Costumes Ordered for Wear During Week-end Rrenperatlons From So cial Duties Are Mannish but Prac ticable. FASHIONABLE women, are all en thusiasm now over the new sport suits which are being ordered for wear during week-end recuperations from the exhausting social duties of town. These new costumes are more mannish in type than anything in women's tailored wear in many a long day. Perhaps for this very reason they' have taken hold of feminine Imagination, albeit their practical qualities are so admirable. The regulation sport suit, as turned out by the clever tailor, takes 10 years off woman's age, for it has 'about It a breezy, knowing air and the very se verity of its tailored lines adds to ats saucy coquetry. Its skirt, as in circular, or ripple cut, swinging .clear of the ankle and revealing the foot in its dainty buttoned boot, or laced tramp ing boot, quite frankly and at either hip are long, . buttoned pockets into which its wearer may thrust her hands, exactly In the manner of her brother or her spouse; for it is not only the young, unmarried women who wear these sporty suits by any means. The coat is in belted Norfolk style, the new Norfolk wtih a deep yoke, and of course it, jjso, has buttoned patch pockets. The simplicity of line, com bined with excessively smart tailoring give these costumes an Individual and distinguished air. They are built of soft tan color and the women who are ordering them for country wear are ordering also tailored blouses of striped or plain pussywillow silk, with high, turnover collars and notched shlrttalls to tuck inside the skirt-bejt. NEW YORKERS MUST PAY - Charged Fire Runs "Will Be TJp N When. Due to Carelessness. NEW YORK, Dec. 8. New Yorkers on whose premises fires occur "due to their own willful and culpable' negli gence" will hereafter have to' pay the fire department the cost of extinguish ing them, according to a statement by Fire Commissioner Robert Adamson re cently. The Commissioner based his statement on a decision rendered Fri day by the Appellate Division of the Supreme Court, in a suit which . he brought " against a corporation for (1500, the cost of fighting a stubborn fire in a' big factory building which the corporation owned. Automatic r iiiu.yp' sj y .v I , .".-:-.--:.::.:-:--:.:. :.: , - 4 York artists. Meantime she had mar ried Harold Porter. of Buffalo, but she wearied of Porter and Buffalo and after her New York experience she sued for a divorce and got a. decree. Then she married Victor II. Briggs, of New York. One day Mr. Brigrgs was passing an art store when he saw a pic ture of his wife in the window. The picture showed her in a state ot innocent nature; in fact, it was called "Innocence." Mr. Briggs did not like it, however, and so began action to sever his matrimonial bonds. Learning that there had been some irregularity in the divorce of his wife from Porter, he got an annulment of his marriage. So Mrs. Davis is legally Mrs. Porter, though she doe3 not use the name. The husband of Princess Elizabeth of Oldenburg, a cousin to the Kaiser, has recently decorated the Germtin Em- sprinklers had been ordered installed in the factory, but the order had been ignored. On the advice of the tire de partment chiefs that had the sprinklers been installed the fire would have been stopped in the basement instead of spreading throughout the building, the suit was brought and resulted in last week's decision, sustaining the Com missioner and awarding him the cost of fighting the fire. Commissioner Adamson said he had Instituted another similar suit against a film company which had ignored an order to move to a fireproof building, shortly after which a fire occurred in the old building. PAIR HELD BENEATH AUTO Young- New Yorker and Fiancee Are Rescued' by Passerby. NEW YORK, Dec. 12. A young man and his ' fiancee, both severely Injured, were held prisoners for half an hour In an upset ymousine on the Merrick road, near Woodmere,.a few mornings ago. William Isaacs, 22, son of Isidor Isaacs, a manufacturer of neckwear in Manhattan, with Miss Almee Blum were on the" way to the home of the Isaacs family at Woodmere when the auto skidded and upset. John Perfing, of Lynbrook, came along 35 minutes later. He saw the tail lights of the machine that had turned over, and stopped. Hearing cries from within the limousine. Perfing, who is muscular, managed to tip the car over on its side, taking out the prisoners. Isaacs and Miss Blum were hurt just alike, the collar bone of each being fractured and each receiving many bruises on head and shoulders. The physician fears the injuries are serious enough to keep them both in the house for six weeks. The wedding had been set for December 29. HAPPY DAWN UNFORTUNATE Girl Attired In Man's Full-Dress Suit Is Arrested. NEW YORK, Dec 12. A girl who said she was Happy Dawn, IS years old, atrfrd in a man's evening suit, was arrested at Eighth avenue and Fifty second street, charged with masquerad ing. Her age was set down by the police as 20- instead of 16. Her head had been shorn of tresses. She said she was an entertainer, and having two engagements last night, did not have time to attire herself in her usual garments to go from Eighth avenue and Fifty-sixth street to fill her second engagement at Broad way and. Forty-sixth, street.' a l .1 c jt - ik. s. - r e it1, rv - ' ' ' peror with the Frederick Augustus Cross. The Kaiser's words of accep tance were framed in praise for the bravery of the Oldenburgs. C. S. Heyneman, a San Francisco architect, has returned to America from Europe with a bride and a thrilling story of escape from death. Mr. Heyne man says he was arrested at Tarascon, in France, and condemned as a sup posed spy, but managed to prove his identity. Later he went to Germany, where he was accused of being a British spy, but released; and on his re turn to France he was arrested once more. While he was under arrest he saw Miss Lacava, who had gone to school with him in California, and after his release he sought her out, an at tachment developed and they were mar ried. They have had enough of war and are going to California to live. The people of Paris are shocked be cause the owner of a small theater which produces revues of a flippant character, has called his house the The ater Albert, after the King of Belgium, and has opened it with Irene Bordoni, a well-known burlesque actress, in "Go to it, Virginia." Most of the Paris the aters have been closed since the be ginning of the war because of restric tions imposed by the government which j are rerardeI almost prohibitive. EXPERIENCES OF NOBLE WOM EN IN EUROPE. Thes horrible experiences that many noble women in Europe have endured during past few months can never be all told. Here in America many women, both young and old, have ex perienced much misery and suffering. Middle aged women about to experi ence that dreaded change of life should profit by the experience of thousands of noble women who have gone through the same period with little or no pain, misery or discomfort. 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Just what you need In case of sick? ness or accident Treats of Physiology, Anatomy. Sex problems. Marriage re lations. Hygiene, Exercise, Disease and its prevention.; Adv, I