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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Nov. 29, 1914)
6 Til 12 SUNDAY OTIEGOXTATf, rOTTTLAlSTJ, 20, 1914. LAUNCHED BY FASH XOlNfS Negligee by Thurn: Pink Chiffon with Silver Lace and White Satin Cap. "The History of Costume." "That's how Poiret and Cheruit and the other chaps In Paris get most of their ideas. Here you will find the Inspirations they grot for the Minaret, the gabardine, the long: tunic, the pannier, the pointed slash ing's almost everything, in fact. Now, why couldn't New Tork do that? "As a matter of fact, it was New Tork that brought out the tailored suit and the short skirt. Paris laughed at It at. first, but Paris finally found Itself adopting it a New York fashionl Until five years ago a Farisienne wouldn't think of wearing 9. skirt that did not have a train. Now she can be Just as trim and tailored-made as you please. Adapted to American Women. "All the Paris fashions, you know, have to be adapted to the American woman. They are too eiztreme in the original for her to wear. Being tho best-dressed woman In the world, as she is rightfully acclaimed to be, she demands smart styles, good cut, good lines. She will not wear freak things. Now, if Parisian clothes have to be adapted to her, why could they not In the first place be made for her here? "We have atmosphere here, too, and the New York life Is just as gay, even though It is on a higher moral plane. We do not need demi-mondaines to bring out a fashion here, for there are respectable, fashionable women to do It. "It Is a fallacy, though, to call it American fashions for American wom en." Call it rather New York fashions for all the world! In Europe they have funny cartoons of women garbed in Indian clothes which they . call American fashions.' That's what It suggests to Europeans and to the world in general. "But even If we do not actually take the place of Paris In creating and sup- Revel&ftaoni in Skyl, Not Rivotatiioini in Design, Marksdl' Oreaftiionis Slhiowini Sit the IBig Ham FasMosa Feite Lasl Week THE past week has seen a most interesting and unique event the ' formal launching in New York of American fashions. The occasion was the great Fashion Fete that was held in the ballroom of the Ritz-Carlton, when all fashionable society turned out to view with great interest the exhibition of gowns and costumes designed and made In America. From every angle the affair was a gratifying success. The ballroom was crowded afternoon and evening with brilliant gatherings, the stage settings nd tableaux arranged by Mrs. Conde Nast proved most effective, the cos tumes exhibited excited much comment and frank admiration, and many dol lars were reaped, for the relief of the war sufferers. But more than all this is the lasting effect that this exhibition of American designed gowns is expected to have upon the American woman. A great deal of speculation has been abroad as to what the results of these costumes originated In America would be.' Would the creators follow the lead that Paris has always set and had set sufficiently before the war broke out to determine the trend of this season's styles? Or would they strike out on entirely new lines. Independent of what had gone be fore? Would they accredit Paris with a natural superiority that New York could never hope to equal, or, on the contrary, regard this as an opportunity to bo develop American fashions that they will lead the world? Purpose of the Fete. The purpose of the fete. In the minds of those who conceived It, has never been the intention of seizing the Paris market, nor even an attempt to make New York Independent of Paris. All this has been clearly set forth by Mrs. Edna Woolman Chase, editor of Vogue, under whose auspices the fete was ar ranged. "Never before has there been any reason for New York designers to at tempt to enter the fleld of Paris," said Mrs. Chase Just before the opening of the fete. "The temperament and talent of the French people and the fact that Paris has been the playground of the world have made it natural for Paris ians to set the fashion. American wom en, seeking the loveliest wherever it can be found, have naturally been among the most eager Paris shoppers. They could never have been persuaded to choose, from a sense of patriotism, a costume less beautiful than some other that they might secure merely be cause it was made In America, or to go about the world wearing an Insignia of America embroidered on t'.ieir gowns. "Their allegiance to Paris has not now suddenly failed, but the situation has changed. Paris fashions are not to be had. or at least the models that creep through are so few as to be negli gible. It is impossible to say whether or not anything new will be sent over for the Spring. "With Vienna, Petrograd. London and Berlin equally disqualified for the role. New York Is the only city In the world today In a position to attempt to meet this fashion situation. In this country our interest In the pleasures of life Is only slightly affected by the war. Our social life is continuing much as usual. Women here must have new clothes, and their interest in fashion is practically as great as usual. This Fashion Fete, therefore, has been planned, and it will offer the first opportunity that the New York HI WOMEN A - V J . Evening If Costume by Stauffer: l Wine Colored Velvet and , )J Chiffon, Train I A with Insert of n Chiffon, Same 'I I Color, Black I 1 Net Drapes U ( I 1 from One WAV) 11 Shoulder; Vr U VVv Beads Trim IM ' III M ( Skating Costume by Thiirn: Cerise Velvet and Russian Rat Fur; dressmakers have ever had to exhibit models of their own designing directly to the fashionable women, whose favor alone can launch them Into what Is known as 'the style.' The conditions of this fete will be as artistic and favorable as the French designers have always enjoyed at the various society events in and near Paris. "No one knows how great a talent the New York designers will display. Undoubtedly many of them have origi nal ideas, new suggestions for color combinations, new possibilities In line, for they have long designed gowns for Individual women. The designers them selves are as interested as any one else in seeing what they can do independ ent of the Paris Inspiration. Several of them are going into the fete for only one reason, and that is Its chari table purpose and the fact that the proceeds of it are to go to the Com mittee of Mercy and, through that committee, to the sufferers of Europe. There are strong friendships be tween the designers here and those In Paris, and there is the greatest unwill ingness on the part of those in New York to take unfair advantage of their friends who are struggling under so many difficulties abroad. Not a Revolution. "Certainly we shall not create nor attempt to create a revolution, in fashion at this fete. Revolutions do style is a matter of evolution. It la not created over night. "Look Just look at these," and he dragged forth several large and musty volumes with many colored plates on plying the fashions of the world, 'we can at least become a successful com petitor. And only hard work and study will do It." Madame E. Stauffer, who exhibited the exquisite wine-colored evening gown that appears in the center of this page, has for 32 years held a unique place in the world of New York fash Ions. "I have always advocated Individual Independence of dress." said charming Madame Stauffer, who is a true artist not only in the matter of gowns. "Therefore while I have gone abroad regularly to visit the Parisian estab lishments and to bring back with me a few suggestions, I have not depended wholly upon Paris. I have never made two gowns alike I couldn't do It. Each of my costumes is a 'creation' in the truest sense of the word. I study the person for whom the gown is to be made, get her lines, coloring, and the style that she should wear. Not only that, but I even make her corsets. No beautiful gown could be properly worn on a cheap, manufactured corset, so I make it for her, thereby creating the lines that are most advantageous to her figure. Vounjr People's Clothes. "The trouble with most young people is that they will not take the time to give the proper thought and attention to their clothes. It is part of the rest lessness of the day and the bigger things that women are interested in. Consequently we find so many women that look exactly alike. I really think that the ready-made"" shops have de moralized dress. If women would even make their clothes themselves they would look better. They would at least be expressing themselves. Instead of trying to look like every one else." Mollie O'Hara is a designer who is very unhappy over the sad Btate of Paris, and who avowed that she would not have entered into the fete had it not been for the fact that it was made a means of helping the unfortunate victims of the war. When Miss O'Hara was asked what she thought the chances were that New York could set a style and start a fash ion for Spring, she said: "I am sure none of us realize how difficult It is go ing to be. We have ideas enough to carry us along for a year, perhaps, but where are we going to get new ones? The Paris dressmaker constantly has beautiful new materials brought in to her that give her ideas; and, besides, every one In a Paris shop, even to the youngest girl, is always looking for suggestions, new lines, new colors. They bring them to the designer, and are paid for them. Here the girls do not do that, for such talent Is not in born In Americans. We certainly have a great deal to learn. "And another thing, the French wom an lends herself to the new fashions, makes herself over to suit a model, and likes the quick change in styles. But the New York woman wishes all her gowns adapted to her. She changes the model and not herself, and chooses much the same kind of dress from sea son to season. It takes her a long time to get used to new things. Howi then, when we have them made, are we ever going to introduce our new styles? Per haps the fete has helped to solve many of these questions." biblon Club recently he had no diffi culty in showing that the much-derided picture by Benjamin West of Penn making a treaty with the In dians, the original of which is in In dependence Hall, is correct in every detail. The treaty was made and it was kept. Iconoclasm has done a great deal of damage to our early history. We have had to give up Pocahontas sav ing the life of John Smith. Israel Put nam In the den of wolves, and the famous cherry-tree story; but the his torical incident of William Penn and the Indians is unassailable. If you do not believe it, go down to the Penn Treaty Park and see where the tree once stood. For further evidence. If necessary, consult Governor Penny packer, who has documents and dates. How Germany Is Fed PROPHETS AND PROPHECIES OF THE WAR not occur In fashion. The change from season to season is gradual and along lines that it is usually possible to prophesy, for a movement continues in one direction until It reaches one ex treme and then swings back to the other. Every one Is, however, very much Interested to see Just what will be done, and the general belief is that very lovely things will be exhibited." Among the designers, too, great loy alty to Paris was evidenced. But It was interesting to note their varying opinions regarding the future of Amer ican fashions. Some were frankly and delightfully optimistic, while other shook their heads sadly and said that we never could get along without Paris. One of these, Mme. Thurn, who has a sumptuous establishment on Fifty second street. exhibited a beautiful skating costume in red which she called "Olga," and in which the model who wore the gown delighted the spec tators when she ran out with the skates slung across her shoulders, then perched on the edge of the plat form and threw snowballs out into the audience. Paris Has the Leisure. "But Paris will always be Paris," sighed Madame Thurn. "Paris has the resources and the time, and only Paris will take the infinite pains that are necessary in the creation of a beautiful mode. They have the leisure there. People take two hours for luncheon. They have time to run in to the Louvre, the art galleries. The dressmakers here in New York work in a great fever; they haven't the time to get into an artistic atmosphere, and are so 'worn out at the end of the season that all they can do is to go off and recuperate to prepare for the strain of the com ing season. "No, we cannot hope for much from America for many, many years to come. We are too young yet, too raw. We have not done great things in any art. America has made wonderful strides in the commercial world, but we have not the centuries of art and culture back of us that exist in the very air in Europe." On the other hand, Joseph, who created the striking stieet costume seen on this page, is looking forward ex pectantly to. the great things New York can accomplish If It sets about hard enough to do it , Can Accomplish Much. "If New York should take It seri ously enough," Bald Mr. Wolf, of Joseph, "it can accomplish so much in even two years that Paris will find it hard to compete successfully. We have a wonderful library, we have a splendid art museum, so there is no reason why we should not go about it in exactly the same way that Paris does. A naw BY MARTIN PETRY. THAT prophecy is a lost art is again exemplified by the Euro pean war, which was not predict ed by a single one of the numerous astrologers who are constantly study ing the stars. The only prophet who came anywhere near it was a young mathematician of Rochester, E. L. Johndro, who early in June predicted that the relations between Austria, Servia and. Russia would be very much strained In August. He added, however, that diplomacy would settle the diffi culty and that no real European war would come until 1918, and. would then last three years. Madame Thebes, the much-talked-of Parisian prophet, some time ago said that this would be a bad year for the Kaiser and predicted that his death would occur on September 29 of this year, but nothing happened to the Kai ser and Madame Thebes announced that she had made a mistake in her calcu lation, and so put the date of his de mise in November of this year. Why or how she does this is a mystery to anyone who knows anything about astrology. . Some English astrologers after the war started announced that it would last for a few months and tha.t the allies would be victorious. German astrologers stated that Germany would win, and so it goes. With many of these prophets the wish Is father to the thought However, despite all this there really is a germ of truth in astrology, as any student of it can testify. The fault is not so much with astrology as with astrologers, who often disagree in their interpretation of a. horoscope Just as physicians hold difefrent opinions in their diagnosis of a case. The difficul ty Is that much of the ancient lorn regarding astrology has been lost, and modern prophets are stumbling about in the dark hoping again, to find, the secret. As it is, all that any astrologer can do is to point out fortunate or unfor nate periods, and that is all. For in stance, when the malefic Saturn moves to an inharmonious aspect in an Indi vidual's chart it is absolutely certain that it will have a harmful effect It may bring illness to himself, financial troubles or have other baneful effects but no astrologer can definitely otate what It will be, and any prophet who does so simply guesses at it. It is the same way with a benefic planet, which may bring sudden good fortune. Increase In health and vitality, add. to one's prestige, etc As with Individuals, so with coun tries. The zodiacal sign Gemini rules the United States, and an evil planet in that sign has always brought some difficulty for this country. Since 1912, when Saturn entered that sign, the United States has been in a delicate position as regards Mexico, and in 1898 when Saturn was In Sagittarius, oppos ing Gemini, we had the war with Spain. In September Saturn passed out of Gemini and since then the Mexican question has gradually simmered down. There are many aspects of the planets which It is known will pos itively produce certain results, but astrology has not yet risen to that point of efficiency and perfection where it can be definitely predicted when and what will take place. By taking the month an Individual is born In, the disposition, temperament and general trend of his life oan be stated with reasonable certainty. For in stance, Leo persons are invariably light-hearted. luxury-loving persons who seldom have to resort to manual labor, while Scorpio persons are quiet, deep, secretive and carry out their plans in life with diplomatic skill. Thus the zodiacal signs run the gamut of every human emotion and trait of character, and these can be generally stated, but when it comes to figuring with mathematical accuracy when an event ,ts to take place, that is as yet impossible, and any astrologer who at tempts it deceives not only others but himself. The character of the planets is also pretty well known. For instance, there Is the ponderous Uranus, known as the celestial Iconoclast, which tears down only to build up anew. In evil aspect this planet may cause serious and chronic diseases, or it may change any individual's views of life, and he may suddenly become radical after years of conservative living and thinking, and vice versa. Calculated by the proces sion of the equinoxes, Uranus was in the water sign Pisces the fishes when Christ was born and gave the world a new religion. A fjw years ago Uranus entered the airy sign Aquarius, where this planet will re main for 200JJ years. While in this sign the best astrologers have long predicted a -new era which "will have something to do with the air." Wire less telegraphy and the coming of the aeroplane show how well they scented the matter. Saturn affects the health principally when in bad aspect to the sun, and yet again It may bring financial loss. Jupiter rules wealth principally, while Mars is constantly associated with war. Yet a man may have Mars strong in his horoscope and have nothing at all to do with warfare; he will, however, be a fighter in whatever line of activ ity he may be engaged in during his life. As for this European war, no astrolo ger can tell how long it will last, as the astrological signs are so complex that a Chinese puzzle is an easy task to solve in comparison. Jupiter Just now is in Aquarius, which represents Prussia, but this planet will pass out of that sign within a few months. Ac cording to all known rules, Jupiter will assist Prussia's plans, but during the Winter his beneficent rays will no longer assist her. To properly study out the whole matter the horoscopes of every ruler, general, army brigade, naval fleet and admiral would have to "be worked out mathematically cor rect, and this data is hard to get, and, even if obtained, the task would be too monumental for any human mind. However, time will solve the whole matter. Meanwhile, it Is well to re member that no prophet can definitely tell the result; that, while there is something in astrology, it will take years of careful study by superior minds to put it on a correct and definite basis. Pcnn's Bargain With the Indians. (Philadelphia Inquirer.) If it were needed to have the. cause of William Penn in his relations tf-' the Indians upheld at this late date, no better champion could have been se cured . than former Governor Penny packer, At a meeting of the Plillo- THE main point will be, how Is Ger many to provide herself with bread stuffs, meat, fresh vegetables and fruit, the first two as necessities for life, the last as indispensable for the health of the people? Now, taking the average year, we can say, counting wheat and rye together (and as information for the Americans I must add that rye bread is "the" bread for Germany), there Is a deficiency of 1.000.000 to 1,500.000 tons that Germany does not raise herself, which is about 6 per cent of the total consumption. This will probably have to be' replaced by some other foodstuff, and the one that is presenting itself is the potato, the av erage crop of which is about 50,000, 000 tons, but this year we have as much as 80.000,000 tons. In the last years the art of preserv ing the potato has been a great prob lem In Germany. For a long time the military authorities had offered a pre mium for a good method of preserving potatoes. This premium has now been withdrawn, as the question can be con sidered as having been solved. There are various methods of preserving them. In the first place they are being cut up In very small slices and dried, the same way as the California dried vegetables are offered in these markets. Then they have been converted Into a most nutritious flour, which has here tofore been used to make cake and pastry, and this will now be added to the bread up to 20 per cent.. Now, it must be understood that So.-. 000,000 tons of potatoes means Just about a ton and a quarter per head uf the German population, equivalent 10 about four pounds a day all the year round for each German, women and children included. This potato crop has heretofore been mostly worked into al cohol, partly for consumption in indus tries, partly for beverages. But there is a very determined war being conducted in Germany against alcoholic bever ages, and no soldier has been permitted even a drink of beer Bince the first day of mobilization. Then, of course, the food needs of the population will always have the prece dence over any use of alcohol in the arts. Thus there will be a large sur plus, which will more than make up any deficiency In wheat or rye. But that is not at all the end of it. Ger many has been raising an average of 2,500,000 tons of sugar, whereof about half is being exported. Now, sugar has been harvested in Germany for this year, and cannot be exported; consequently there is a two years' supply on hand, which Would mean that the big acreage employed in the raising of sugar beets is available for such crops as might be short. On fields which grew sugar beets, anything else can be planted and will give big harvests. There may be some shortage of fodder for animals, because a great deal of that has ordinarily been im ported. Accordingly, this sugar ground will probably be sowed to alfalfa and other good haymaking crops, and so there will be no difficulty on this ac count either. One can say, therefore, no shortage of breadstuffs ought to be expected under these conditions. Re view of Reviews. The Idea! (Boston Transcript.) He Do you know I've called full a dozen times and not found you In. She Nor will you ever find me in if you call in that condition.