PURPLE FUR TRIMMINGS BECOME
FASHION RAGE ON NEW WRAPS
Skirt Drapery of Pale Green Velvet Over Tunic of Silver Lace Designed to
and Opera Note Is Most Effective.
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I FW YORK. Dec. 6. (Special.)
No animal that ever grew on sea
or land had deep purple fur. but
the clever couturiers have succeeded In
having- any pelt they choose dyed In
any aiiade they choose. A Bernard
wrap of purple moire veiour Is all In
cne tfr.e ornaments, buttons and Batln
lining being in the purple shade with
tho tingle exception of a fox fur collar,
-which is in a darker shade of purple.
The ccat Is Intended for theater wear
itnd accompanies a frock of lans
lowne and lace, buttoned boots with
liish heels and Ions gloves of silk era.
troidered on the. wrist.
During the mid-week, when both
lioroe Hiow and opera were In full
acial swing, a distinctive gown was
-worn by a debutante of the season.
first at the Garden and an hour later
in one of the boxes at the Metropolitan.
Lifted over a tunic of silver lace la a
s'rftrt lrcpery of pale gretn velvet.
The silver lace tunic Is over a bodice
of net. embroidered with pearl and
crystal beads.
Several tones of violet were Included
lr a lovely evening gown, worn at the
Horn Show and afterward at Sherry's
In mid-November. The skirt drapery
is of hyacinth velvet and Is posed on
the skirt half way up on a foundation
f palo amethyst chiffon. The tunic of
White chiffon Is edged with crystal and
tT.cth) it bead banding and a garniture
tt bead embroidery In the same ef
feet Tails at the right side. The bod
Ice Is of shadow lace and a cluster
f vint-t-:oned flowers focuses the
color barrrony at the left side.
Vacation Dangers.
(Chicago Inter Ocean.)
Of the cases of typhoid fever re-
SO MANY NEW FASHION OFFERINGS
PUT DOUBT INTO HEART OF WOMAN
.
"Bustle" Gown Is Reminiscent of the '80s Minaret Tunics Vie With Classic Draperies Turkish Note Still Pre
vailsDress That May Be Worn Hindpart Foremost Is New Idea,
EW YORK, Dec. S (Special.)
The struggle of the French dress
makers for supremacy this Au
tumn is rather ludicrously suggestive
of an ancient Scotch adjuration: "Each
for his ain self, and the De'U take the
hindmost." The astute couturiers, re
alizing that some radical change from
the long-beloved classic silhouettes was
imminent, has taken advantnge of the
sartorlral spirit of unrest to w rite each
his own name in the flaming chiro
graphy of a definite new fashion,
across the horizon. Of course, not all
the new fashions can bo established
and adopted but ea h has been eiven
a certain consideration and the result
is anxiety in the minds of the com
mercial providers of dress; frenzy In
the souls of conservative couturiers,
and doubt in the heart of woman. What
on earth is she to look like next? Is
she to wear distended hoopskirts reach
ing to the knee? Is she to assume a
bustle after nil these years? Is she
to encase her limbs In Turkish trousers
and substitute for her pretty buttoned
'- boots slippers curled up at the toes like
. the horn or a crescent moon: Mow
shall she order hor new frork for Win
ter made? What is safe? What la out
rageous in the new modes?
It is all very well for women of the
metropolis or even of the larger sister
cities in which much the same Ideals in
fashion are fiIIowed and where smart
and wearable clothes are to be seen In
the way of patterns every time one
mingles with one's kind. Hut the wo
man living in a small town or a town
far removed from an Important style
center has no certain methods of
measurement where dress is concerned.
She must be guided by the mandates
of the town dressmaker who is this
HI I
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ported in Chicago during October.
Health Commissioner Young's statla
tics show that 89 W per rent were con
tracted out of town. Dr. Young de
clares that the reason for this lies In
the fact that more than the average
number of Chicago people left the city
during last Summer, owlnir to the un
year as much at sea as herself by the
fashion periodicals which keep care
fully on the safe side by presenting
patterns of all the new style monstros
ities and by the fashion pages In the
newspapers, which add to tho seething
unrest by sensational presentations of
all the striking new fashions.
Fads Arc Graduated.
But all striking fashions become
very, very much moderated before they
reach the average woman of conven
tional habit and conservative taste.
Tho sensational style, piquant and chic
as It undoubtedly was when produced
in Paris with exquisitely textured and
tinted fabrics and worn by a woman
selected for its best exploitation, must
go through various phases before It
becomes the adopted fashion of the
multitude. It must prove itself suit
able for most figures, adaptable to
fabrlca at a dollar the yard as well as
16 tho yard, and It must In some way
slbscribe to established ideals of
beauty and grace In raiment.
The most Important of the variations
from the straight-up-and-down lines
of the silhouette Is shown In the min
aret tunic created "by Taul Poiret.
The minaret, as every woman from
Portland. Maine, to Portland. Or., now
knows, is a short, distended tunic made
to stand out from the clinging skirt
beneath by means of a wire or hoop.
The real minaret is of chiffon, net. lace,
or other transparent stuff, so that the
lines of the figure, draped with soft
silk, satin of lansdowne. are clearly
visible through the airy tunic. This
type of costume Is essentially Persian,
the transparent, hooped tunic having
been borrowed directly from the cos
tumes of Persian dancera who wore
these tunica over baggy, trousers of
silk. Several minaret gowns, made by
Poiret for a. play running at the The
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TITE SUNDAY OREGOXIAN. TOUTLAND,
Set Off Gown Worn at Horse Show
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usual heat, and that the Impure drink
ing water supply of many Summer re
sorts was responsible for much of the
typhoid. In trU connection It 13 worth
while to question 'the jood that comes
from many a Summer vacation spent
n a stuffy hotel such as Is found In
the average Summer report. The va
eatlonlst. In order to obtain the doubt
ful benefits of purer air and rural en
vironment, has poor accommodation,
poorer food than he obtains at home.
a lack of many oi tne pleasures wnicn
the city offers, and takes a large risk
of disease which will more than nullify
any bcnoflts that he might obtain
from a sojourn In the country.
MOTHER AWAITS ELOPER
Majestic Theater Treasurer, Chi
cago. Puxxles Ills Mother-ln-Law.
rmrAOO. Dec. 1. Just why Clifford
K. Almv. assistant treasurer of the Ma.
Jestlc "Theater, and Miss Kathryn
Coutts should have pone to Crown
Point, lnd.. for their marriage license
ws3 not clear to Mrs. Coutts. She was
sitting up late at night to wait for her
riatiehter.
"There Is no objection to It," she
said. "O, no. not at all: but I would
rather like to know whats going on.
Young women don't seem to think It's
B.vniri- to discuss these little matters
with their mothers. Also they don't
Mm to have much sense."
Later Mrs. Coutts inquired for how
long a marriage license is good. Ef
forts to reach Almy or his parents were
unsuccessful.
ater Renaissance In Paris, created a
furore and established a new fashion
that has spread all over the civilized
world in a few weeks.
It seems almost Incredible that the
hustle hideous memory of the 80s
should have dared to obtrude Itself
again upon enlightened femininity; but
nevertheless, here Is the bustle, as
large as life, commending Itself to
favor as a coming fashion, and Intro
duced by a no less authoritative cou
turier thsfn Fremet. hether Premet
corsiders the bustle lovely, nobody but
I'remet knows. At least It Is a novelty.
after so many years of straight, lank
backs. As l'remet's Idea seems to be
tho bustle-supported projection of the
skirt below the waistline, and a sling
ing line lower down, at the knee, the
fantastic and Indescribable effect of
these bustle silhouettes from a side
view may best be left to the imagina
tion. Callot soeurs scorns both the bustle
and the hooped tunic and stands fast
for drapery Turkish drapery that Is.
crossed and lifted In front over loose.
bifurcated silken garments that maj
or may not be trousers. At any rate
they give that effect, elustvely. beneath
the cunningly crossed drapery. Witn
this eminently Turkish sort of skirl,
goes a gay little slashed away jnck.it
lavishly trimmed with metallic braid,
and beads, metal ornaments and other
Turkish garniture complete the sugges
tion. - Popular Scheme lilt I poa.
One French couturier has hit upon
the scheme of making gowns that may
be turned hlnd-slde-before with equally
good effect. These gowns require a slen
der, undeveloped figure, with straight
lines instead of curves at front and
back. . A feature of this style of cos
tume Is the train formed by extending
the front breadtn by a yard or so, the
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material dragging between the leet
toward the back.
No matter what the type cf costume
adopted, however, femininity the faH
ionuble part of It. that 1 seems to
unite un one point, and that Is the
proper manner of wearing the costume.
Nobody stands up straight any more.
The head erect, knees bark, shoulders
back, heels together position orcc
ortred by the -nll.it henlc director. 1?
hideously out of style. One must slouch
or In more poetic language, droop
to bo in fashion. And the droopier the
attitude, the llmper and more bonelejs
one can become, the smarter one looks.
This modish droop Is called In New
York the "debutante slouch"" and Is
achieved by relaxing all the muscles,
bending the knees, one more than the
other. lettincNne shoulder sail and the
head loll. For the moment, the brisk,
erect, tailor-made woman in a seml
mr.nnlsh suit has vanished .from slsht.
But H Is whispered that she is Virklnn
Just around the corner: which doubt
less means atlll another silhouette!
Fcuntzdn !s Suggested by
Cciffcre Ornament
Medusa la 'ame of Latest Creetloa
Mork Vt'aUtraati of Wide Rlbboa
for Cutaway Coats. Nrvr Idea.
THE very latest coiffure ornament
Is called the Medusa, but rather
than suggesting a reptilian effect. It
makes ono think of a delicately spray
ing fountain, with thread-like Jets of
water curving in a breeze. The basis
of the- ornament la a fillet of black
velvet or jetted net. which goes all
around the head, low on the brow in
front and just above a low coil of hair
at the back. At intervals of a few
inches rise strands of paradise feather
only two or three strands to each
group being held ar-mst tho fillet by
pearl or rblnestone studded cabuchons.
Tho effect of the slender, curving para
dise aigrettes, rising all around the
head Is indescribably airy and If some
what blsarre exceedingly smart.
With a dancing frock of tulle, which
has usually three fluffy tulle tunics
above a narrow skirt, are worn laced
cothurns. or slippers having ribbons
laced across the Instep and around the
ankle; and long gloves of embroldeerd
silk In white or dainty color. Women
who do not fancy tne rather exagger
ated effect of the laced cothurn. wear
dancing slippers of satin, buttoned
across lh Instep In some fancy strap
arrangement.
Severul waistcoats of gay color may
b provided for the cutaway tailored
coat by making mck waistcoats of
wide ribbon In plain color, flowered or
post impressionistic design. These are
simply strips of th ribbon, crushed
across the waistline under the coat
fronts and attached to the Inner edges
of the coat by snap-outtons. One waist
coat may be whisked out In a jiffy and
another substituted in this convenient
way.
Petticoats of l.insdnorne are more
practical than models of cheap messa
line which. In this day of narrow skirts
la apt to glvo way a the seams or
across the knees if one stoops sudden
ly for a fallen purs ur rtandkorchlef.
Lansdowne Is a mixture of silk worsted
which Is very soft and supple In tex
ture, has a delicate sheen and clings
not too much for a comfortable petti
coat. Cross-Saddle Costumes Are
Adopted at Horseshow
Soelety Womn. Who Formerly
t'luaa- to Old-KaNBioaed Side Seat.
Appear at )ladIoa-ttu,uare I" Slua-
Ing .tn Costumes.
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l-atest la' Hiding llablta.
NEV
EW YORK. Dec. 8 (Special.)
Thla year .for the first time, the
tern dictators wf propriety
the horse show permitted cross-saddle
riding In the ring. Heretofore good
form has required a side saddle and
conventional skirt habit of the woman
rider and cross saddles and breeches
have been debarred. Tho horse show-
Is a formal affair and utmost punctll
lousnesa is observed in all formal con
ventions. The cross saddle habit,
however popular it might have been
for country riding, was not deemed dig
nifled and formal enough for the an
nual horse show at Madison Square
Garden.
Now all this has been changed, how
ever and many of the young riders this
year appeared in cross saddle habits.
The long coat, with Its mannish collar
and revers and flaring cut below tho
waist falls over perfectly fitted kne-e
breeches which are met by equally
well-fitted riding boots, stiff above the
'ankle and wonderfully supplo and soft
over toe and foot. Correct adjuncts
of the costume are the stitched cloth
riding hat. Immaculate white stock and
heavy riding gloves-
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DECEMBER 7, 1913.
PROMINENT WOMEN THROUGHOUT
WORLD POSE FOR NEWS CAMERA
Chicago Female Physician "Would Permit Fair Bathers ta Shed Skirts Rumor Says Son of Kaiser and Wife
Have Quarreled Talented Mrs. Henderson May Go on Stage as Professional.
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NEW YC
Dr. Rc
iimmori
EW YORK. Dec. . (Special.)
osallc ii Ladova has rec
ommended to the Council health
committee of Chicago the enactment of
legislation that will permit women to
bathe at the Jackson Park free beach
In that clly next Summer without
skirts. Dr. I-adova holds that the skirt-
less bathing suit is trie only sane suit
for bathing. Phe also favors selling
aside a certain part of the beach for
sunbaths. Ir. Ladova tried the skirt-
less bathing si lt on Chicago last Sum
mer and wus arrested.
Continental dispatches tell of dis
cord between Prince Kitel Fritz, the
second sen of the Kaiser, and his wife.
who was the Princess Sophie. Duchess
of Oldenburg. They were married in
SOS and have no children. It Is now
declared that they have actually sepa
rated and it is even said the princess
had gone to America, but this is not
confirmed.
Not specialization but versatility
this Is the slogan of Mrs. Henry Hen
derson, of Los Angeles, a woman Jf
more talents than can he counted on
the fingers of two hards. Though she
takes an active part In the social lire
of Los Angeles, and fulfills a high
standard as home maker. Mrs. Hender
son yet finds time for other work; and
Cider Found to Be Good
Remedy for Gout
ranaln In Heveraae Also Make It
Tonic for Kver body Relpen for
Preparing; Drink and Jelly i.tveo.
THE
the
unfortunate individual, loving
e good things of the table, yet
afflicted with gout, may now take
heart of grace, for there Is one re
freshing beverage which will not be
denied him. Cider. It has been dis
covered. Is excellent for gout and la a
splendid tonic, for everybody because
of the amount of tannin It contains.
Here is a recipe, handed down In a
New England family, for'old-fashloned
mulled cider:
Beat two eggs with two tablespoons
of sugar and potir over the mixture a
quart of freshly boiled cider, stirring
constantly. Put the mixture on the
stove and boll It aaain. Add some
mint leaves, some thin slices oi lemon
snd serve Immediately In tall glasses
thick enough to stand the steaming
beverage without cracking.
Cider Jelly Is a delicious dessert for
Autumn, duys.
Dissolve two ounces of gelatine In a
little water and when thoroughly dis
solved add two and a half pints of
cider and a pound of granulated sugar.
Boil until it begins to thicken, then
strain through cloth and pour Into a
Jelly mould. erve with whipped
cream.
CHICAGO GETS BAD EGGS
linker Says Peculiar Odor Doesn't
Mean Hen Fruit Spoiled.
CHICAGO, Dec. 1. "O. some of the
eggs are spotted and some of 'em have
a slight odor, but. pshaw that doesn't
make a decayed egg." observed Martin
Johnson. proprietor of the Columbia
Bakery, when arraigned on a health
department charge of using "spotted
and smelly" egss.
"Well. I'm afraid it does." said Judge
Newcomer.
"Well, if that's so." returned Johnson,
"every baker In Chicago is using bad
eggs. Everybody in Chicago Is getting
bad stuff."
HOBBLE SKIRT IS BLAMED
Kali Accident! I -a Id to Style and
New Foe Is Made.
FOilT WAYNE. Ind.. Dec. 1. The of
ficials of the Pennsylvania Itsllroad
are perturbed over the hobble skirt and
the high-heeled shoe, and have become
a new foe against them. The reason Is
that the record shows 44 accidents to
women oa the company's right-of-way
acting. singing, painting and writing
are Included among her talents. Mrs.
Henderson has not appeared profes
sionally on the stage, but If all her
plans are executed she will next Fall
- tn.nn.arv fart-l to her beau-
tiful and picturesque home in Califor-
nla and will appear before the spot
lights as a professional.
j
The Maharanee of Kapurthala. In
dia, and her hurs.nd are visiting in
this country. T!:? Maharanee was a
Spanish dancer named Anita Doigadoj
before her marriage to the Maharajah.
Her father, objected to the attentions
of even a Maharajah inasmuch as ai
marriage meant the loss of her finan
cial help. The Maharajah overcame j
his objections by givlcg the father
J60'.
Miss LouU Long was one of the
most prominent of the exhibitors at
the New York Horse Show. She took
second prize In the roadster class on
Tuesday with Aspiration, giving way
to E. T. Ptotesbury's entry, which eas
ily took first.
A new member of the Metropolitan
Opera Company this season Is Margaret
Oher. a Herman sincer. She made her
debut last week In the part of Ortrud
in "Iohengrln." and scored a great
success. While not unnaturally nerv
ous on her first appearance, she showed
or cars bv reason of the hobbles or the
heels in Aurusu Ai in September, anil
52 In October. All had to bo given of
ficial notice and meant some outlay by
the company.
"A woman can't mount a car stop in
a proper way with a hobble skirt.'' said
an official today. "Their feet are
bound and they are liable to trip, caus
ing some damage to person or dress,
for v.hich they want compensation.
"So far as the railroad can do so. we
will favor the slit skirt, leg or no leg
showing, or a return to common-sense
skirts that give a woman's lei? soma
freedom of action."
School ofTlclals In TtcverTy. Maf.. recnt.y
calculated lii men.y gain for lli-lr p'ipils
in vocational . J Ji ti.-n. Th.-y tciuml that an
cxprndltur. of on eifh boy In iiuiu
Irlal training Ii "1 ratei the raplt.tllsailon
of the boy'a c.iwmic valua from ItVoo to
$13.0 or 1S.!!'.
FRUIT LAXATIVE FOR SICK CHILD
GIVE "CALIFORNIA SYRUP OF
Cleanses tender little stomach, liver
and bowels without griping
Children love it.
Every mother realizes that this Is the
children's Ideal laxative and physic be
cause they love its pleasant taste and
It never fails to effect a thorough "in
side cleaesirg" without griping.
When your child is cross, irritable.
feverish, or breath Is bad. stomach sour.
look at the tongue, mother! If coated,
give a teaspoonful of 'California Syrup
of Figs." and In a few hours all the
foul, constipated waste, sour bile and
undigested f od passes out of the bowel
GIRLS! CLEAN AND BEAUTIFY HAIR
NO DANDRUFF 25 GENT DANDER!
Try this! Makes hair soft, glossy,
fluffy, abundant Stop wash
ing the hair with soap. '
Purely try a "Danderine Hair Cleanse"
if you wish to immediately double the
beauty of your hair. Just moisten a
cloth with Danderine and draw it care
fully through your hair, taking one
small strand at a time, this w ill cleanse
the hair of dust, dirt or any excessive
oil L(n a few minutes you will be
amazed. Your hair will be wavy, fluffy
and abundant and possess an incom
parable softness, lustre and luxuriance.
that she had a fine contralto voire !
pood rante and clear quality and that
her dramatic powers are unusually
preat. Her conception of the part
showed unusual intelliemce and great
lllnn are expected of hr in other
rcles. She was received with enthusi
asm by the audience at the Metropoli
tan, which never Is excitable, and was
recalled strain anil stain.
To Have Smooth. White
Soft Skin all Winter
(From The Woman Beautiful.)
p,es your skin chap or roughen
ea.-ily in this weather. r become un
duly red or blotchy? Let mo tell you
a quick, easy way to overcome the
trouble and keep your complexion
beautifully white, smooth and soft the
Winter long. Just get an ounce of or
dinary mi-rcollztd wax at the nearest
drug store and use a little before re
tiring, as you would ci-ld cream. Upon
arising, remove the coating with sudsy
water. The wax. through some pe
culiar attribute, flecks off the rough,
iiscolorei or blemished skin. Tlie
worn-out cuticle conies off just like
dandruff tin a diseased scalp, only in
almost inisitue particles. Mercolized
wax simply hastens Nature's work.
Used as required, it keeps the face
constantly free from devitalized scarf
skin anu only the healthy, young
looking skin Is in evidence. It's the
best treatment known for weather
beaten, aired, muddy, freckled, pimpled
anil oil tiabeautifiil complexions.
Some skins wrinkle easily in Winter.
There's an excellent remedy in a harm
less wash lotion made by dissolving
one oum c powdered saxolite in one
half pint witch hazeL This will quickly
eradicate every line. Adv.
Phone Marshall 13S0.
A. DE BLANCHE
Ladies' Tailor. Importer. Designer
and Maker of Gowns.
GOODWIN CORSETS
Clone ISIdg., 4IS Washlnalon St.
and you have a well, playful child again.
. l 4. i;.iA i full nf cold.
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throat sore, has slomacn ache, diarrhoea,
indigestion, colic remember a good
liver and bowel cleaning should always
be the first treatment given.
Millions of mothers keep "California
yrup of Figs" handy: they know a
teaspoonful today saves a sick child
tomorrow. Directions for liabies. chii
dren of all aces and grown-ups are
plainly on each bottle.
Ask your drucKist for a 50-cent
b.mlc of "C:ilif"ri!ia Syrup of Figs.
Beware of counterfeits sold here. Get
the genuine, made by "California Fi
Syrup Company." IUfuse any other fit:
syrup with contempt. Adv.
Besides beautifying the hair, one ap
plication of Danderine dissolves tver
particie of dandruff; invigorates the
scalp, stopping Itching and falling hair.
Danderine is to the hair what freili
showers of rain ar)d sunshine are t
vegetation. It goes riglit to the root.-.
Invigorates and strengthens them. Its
exhilarating, stimulating and life-producing
properties cause the hair t
grow long, strong and beautiful.
You can surely have pretty, soft,
lustrous hair, and lots of it. If yon vrill
Ju.-t get a 25 cent bottle of Knosllon s
Danderine from any druj? at-jie or
toilet counter and try it as directed
Adv:-
FIGS