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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Dec. 7, 1913)
PURPLE FUR TRIMMINGS BECOME FASHION RAGE ON NEW WRAPS Skirt Drapery of Pale Green Velvet Over Tunic of Silver Lace Designed to and Opera Note Is Most Effective. Finn ii ia'lS.' Lmm,,W'1Tm!KX V '1 . j SLrsyoc Jty-A TJWxri N' I FW YORK. Dec. 6. (Special.) No animal that ever grew on sea or land had deep purple fur. but the clever couturiers have succeeded In having- any pelt they choose dyed In any aiiade they choose. A Bernard wrap of purple moire veiour Is all In cne tfr.e ornaments, buttons and Batln lining being in the purple shade with tho tingle exception of a fox fur collar, -which is in a darker shade of purple. The ccat Is Intended for theater wear itnd accompanies a frock of lans lowne and lace, buttoned boots with liish heels and Ions gloves of silk era. troidered on the. wrist. During the mid-week, when both lioroe Hiow and opera were In full acial swing, a distinctive gown was -worn by a debutante of the season. first at the Garden and an hour later in one of the boxes at the Metropolitan. Lifted over a tunic of silver lace la a s'rftrt lrcpery of pale gretn velvet. The silver lace tunic Is over a bodice of net. embroidered with pearl and crystal beads. Several tones of violet were Included lr a lovely evening gown, worn at the Horn Show and afterward at Sherry's In mid-November. The skirt drapery is of hyacinth velvet and Is posed on the skirt half way up on a foundation f palo amethyst chiffon. The tunic of White chiffon Is edged with crystal and tT.cth) it bead banding and a garniture tt bead embroidery In the same ef feet Tails at the right side. The bod Ice Is of shadow lace and a cluster f vint-t-:oned flowers focuses the color barrrony at the left side. Vacation Dangers. (Chicago Inter Ocean.) Of the cases of typhoid fever re- SO MANY NEW FASHION OFFERINGS PUT DOUBT INTO HEART OF WOMAN . "Bustle" Gown Is Reminiscent of the '80s Minaret Tunics Vie With Classic Draperies Turkish Note Still Pre vailsDress That May Be Worn Hindpart Foremost Is New Idea, EW YORK, Dec. S (Special.) The struggle of the French dress makers for supremacy this Au tumn is rather ludicrously suggestive of an ancient Scotch adjuration: "Each for his ain self, and the De'U take the hindmost." The astute couturiers, re alizing that some radical change from the long-beloved classic silhouettes was imminent, has taken advantnge of the sartorlral spirit of unrest to w rite each his own name in the flaming chiro graphy of a definite new fashion, across the horizon. Of course, not all the new fashions can bo established and adopted but ea h has been eiven a certain consideration and the result is anxiety in the minds of the com mercial providers of dress; frenzy In the souls of conservative couturiers, and doubt in the heart of woman. What on earth is she to look like next? Is she to wear distended hoopskirts reach ing to the knee? Is she to assume a bustle after nil these years? Is she to encase her limbs In Turkish trousers and substitute for her pretty buttoned '- boots slippers curled up at the toes like . the horn or a crescent moon: Mow shall she order hor new frork for Win ter made? What is safe? What la out rageous in the new modes? It is all very well for women of the metropolis or even of the larger sister cities in which much the same Ideals in fashion are fiIIowed and where smart and wearable clothes are to be seen In the way of patterns every time one mingles with one's kind. Hut the wo man living in a small town or a town far removed from an Important style center has no certain methods of measurement where dress is concerned. She must be guided by the mandates of the town dressmaker who is this HI I 1 s i. ported in Chicago during October. Health Commissioner Young's statla tics show that 89 W per rent were con tracted out of town. Dr. Young de clares that the reason for this lies In the fact that more than the average number of Chicago people left the city during last Summer, owlnir to the un year as much at sea as herself by the fashion periodicals which keep care fully on the safe side by presenting patterns of all the new style monstros ities and by the fashion pages In the newspapers, which add to tho seething unrest by sensational presentations of all the striking new fashions. Fads Arc Graduated. But all striking fashions become very, very much moderated before they reach the average woman of conven tional habit and conservative taste. Tho sensational style, piquant and chic as It undoubtedly was when produced in Paris with exquisitely textured and tinted fabrics and worn by a woman selected for its best exploitation, must go through various phases before It becomes the adopted fashion of the multitude. It must prove itself suit able for most figures, adaptable to fabrlca at a dollar the yard as well as 16 tho yard, and It must In some way slbscribe to established ideals of beauty and grace In raiment. The most Important of the variations from the straight-up-and-down lines of the silhouette Is shown In the min aret tunic created "by Taul Poiret. The minaret, as every woman from Portland. Maine, to Portland. Or., now knows, is a short, distended tunic made to stand out from the clinging skirt beneath by means of a wire or hoop. The real minaret is of chiffon, net. lace, or other transparent stuff, so that the lines of the figure, draped with soft silk, satin of lansdowne. are clearly visible through the airy tunic. This type of costume Is essentially Persian, the transparent, hooped tunic having been borrowed directly from the cos tumes of Persian dancera who wore these tunica over baggy, trousers of silk. Several minaret gowns, made by Poiret for a. play running at the The ' 1 - t ' v 3 . 1, W 7 I M if TITE SUNDAY OREGOXIAN. TOUTLAND, Set Off Gown Worn at Horse Show - s i usual heat, and that the Impure drink ing water supply of many Summer re sorts was responsible for much of the typhoid. In trU connection It 13 worth while to question 'the jood that comes from many a Summer vacation spent n a stuffy hotel such as Is found In the average Summer report. The va eatlonlst. In order to obtain the doubt ful benefits of purer air and rural en vironment, has poor accommodation, poorer food than he obtains at home. a lack of many oi tne pleasures wnicn the city offers, and takes a large risk of disease which will more than nullify any bcnoflts that he might obtain from a sojourn In the country. MOTHER AWAITS ELOPER Majestic Theater Treasurer, Chi cago. Puxxles Ills Mother-ln-Law. rmrAOO. Dec. 1. Just why Clifford K. Almv. assistant treasurer of the Ma. Jestlc "Theater, and Miss Kathryn Coutts should have pone to Crown Point, lnd.. for their marriage license ws3 not clear to Mrs. Coutts. She was sitting up late at night to wait for her riatiehter. "There Is no objection to It," she said. "O, no. not at all: but I would rather like to know whats going on. Young women don't seem to think It's B.vniri- to discuss these little matters with their mothers. Also they don't Mm to have much sense." Later Mrs. Coutts inquired for how long a marriage license is good. Ef forts to reach Almy or his parents were unsuccessful. ater Renaissance In Paris, created a furore and established a new fashion that has spread all over the civilized world in a few weeks. It seems almost Incredible that the hustle hideous memory of the 80s should have dared to obtrude Itself again upon enlightened femininity; but nevertheless, here Is the bustle, as large as life, commending Itself to favor as a coming fashion, and Intro duced by a no less authoritative cou turier thsfn Fremet. hether Premet corsiders the bustle lovely, nobody but I'remet knows. At least It Is a novelty. after so many years of straight, lank backs. As l'remet's Idea seems to be tho bustle-supported projection of the skirt below the waistline, and a sling ing line lower down, at the knee, the fantastic and Indescribable effect of these bustle silhouettes from a side view may best be left to the imagina tion. Callot soeurs scorns both the bustle and the hooped tunic and stands fast for drapery Turkish drapery that Is. crossed and lifted In front over loose. bifurcated silken garments that maj or may not be trousers. At any rate they give that effect, elustvely. beneath the cunningly crossed drapery. Witn this eminently Turkish sort of skirl, goes a gay little slashed away jnck.it lavishly trimmed with metallic braid, and beads, metal ornaments and other Turkish garniture complete the sugges tion. - Popular Scheme lilt I poa. One French couturier has hit upon the scheme of making gowns that may be turned hlnd-slde-before with equally good effect. These gowns require a slen der, undeveloped figure, with straight lines instead of curves at front and back. . A feature of this style of cos tume Is the train formed by extending the front breadtn by a yard or so, the - A 'I. tail.: t-V ! - L 'r 'v5i .' t J ' 1, - ft i i in-- y " material dragging between the leet toward the back. No matter what the type cf costume adopted, however, femininity the faH ionuble part of It. that 1 seems to unite un one point, and that Is the proper manner of wearing the costume. Nobody stands up straight any more. The head erect, knees bark, shoulders back, heels together position orcc ortred by the -nll.it henlc director. 1? hideously out of style. One must slouch or In more poetic language, droop to bo in fashion. And the droopier the attitude, the llmper and more bonelejs one can become, the smarter one looks. This modish droop Is called In New York the "debutante slouch"" and Is achieved by relaxing all the muscles, bending the knees, one more than the other. lettincNne shoulder sail and the head loll. For the moment, the brisk, erect, tailor-made woman in a seml mr.nnlsh suit has vanished .from slsht. But H Is whispered that she is Virklnn Just around the corner: which doubt less means atlll another silhouette! Fcuntzdn !s Suggested by Cciffcre Ornament Medusa la 'ame of Latest Creetloa Mork Vt'aUtraati of Wide Rlbboa for Cutaway Coats. Nrvr Idea. THE very latest coiffure ornament Is called the Medusa, but rather than suggesting a reptilian effect. It makes ono think of a delicately spray ing fountain, with thread-like Jets of water curving in a breeze. The basis of the- ornament la a fillet of black velvet or jetted net. which goes all around the head, low on the brow in front and just above a low coil of hair at the back. At intervals of a few inches rise strands of paradise feather only two or three strands to each group being held ar-mst tho fillet by pearl or rblnestone studded cabuchons. Tho effect of the slender, curving para dise aigrettes, rising all around the head Is indescribably airy and If some what blsarre exceedingly smart. With a dancing frock of tulle, which has usually three fluffy tulle tunics above a narrow skirt, are worn laced cothurns. or slippers having ribbons laced across the Instep and around the ankle; and long gloves of embroldeerd silk In white or dainty color. Women who do not fancy tne rather exagger ated effect of the laced cothurn. wear dancing slippers of satin, buttoned across lh Instep In some fancy strap arrangement. Severul waistcoats of gay color may b provided for the cutaway tailored coat by making mck waistcoats of wide ribbon In plain color, flowered or post impressionistic design. These are simply strips of th ribbon, crushed across the waistline under the coat fronts and attached to the Inner edges of the coat by snap-outtons. One waist coat may be whisked out In a jiffy and another substituted in this convenient way. Petticoats of l.insdnorne are more practical than models of cheap messa line which. In this day of narrow skirts la apt to glvo way a the seams or across the knees if one stoops sudden ly for a fallen purs ur rtandkorchlef. Lansdowne Is a mixture of silk worsted which Is very soft and supple In tex ture, has a delicate sheen and clings not too much for a comfortable petti coat. Cross-Saddle Costumes Are Adopted at Horseshow Soelety Womn. Who Formerly t'luaa- to Old-KaNBioaed Side Seat. Appear at )ladIoa-ttu,uare I" Slua- Ing .tn Costumes. 07 t Vr - iV . . .? . J ? . . ..-.4 l-atest la' Hiding llablta. NEV EW YORK. Dec. 8 (Special.) Thla year .for the first time, the tern dictators wf propriety the horse show permitted cross-saddle riding In the ring. Heretofore good form has required a side saddle and conventional skirt habit of the woman rider and cross saddles and breeches have been debarred. Tho horse show- Is a formal affair and utmost punctll lousnesa is observed in all formal con ventions. The cross saddle habit, however popular it might have been for country riding, was not deemed dig nifled and formal enough for the an nual horse show at Madison Square Garden. Now all this has been changed, how ever and many of the young riders this year appeared in cross saddle habits. The long coat, with Its mannish collar and revers and flaring cut below tho waist falls over perfectly fitted kne-e breeches which are met by equally well-fitted riding boots, stiff above the 'ankle and wonderfully supplo and soft over toe and foot. Correct adjuncts of the costume are the stitched cloth riding hat. Immaculate white stock and heavy riding gloves- k 't - t-v: - J : r ' f rv:'..;v.--..-:, DECEMBER 7, 1913. PROMINENT WOMEN THROUGHOUT WORLD POSE FOR NEWS CAMERA Chicago Female Physician "Would Permit Fair Bathers ta Shed Skirts Rumor Says Son of Kaiser and Wife Have Quarreled Talented Mrs. Henderson May Go on Stage as Professional. t ' I r '''V -v -""t Jit r t js . r - 'i&'i' 7 v ffF7?'C .Ml V, : Jr W'r .11 NEW YC Dr. Rc iimmori EW YORK. Dec. . (Special.) osallc ii Ladova has rec ommended to the Council health committee of Chicago the enactment of legislation that will permit women to bathe at the Jackson Park free beach In that clly next Summer without skirts. Dr. I-adova holds that the skirt- less bathing suit is trie only sane suit for bathing. Phe also favors selling aside a certain part of the beach for sunbaths. Ir. Ladova tried the skirt- less bathing si lt on Chicago last Sum mer and wus arrested. Continental dispatches tell of dis cord between Prince Kitel Fritz, the second sen of the Kaiser, and his wife. who was the Princess Sophie. Duchess of Oldenburg. They were married in SOS and have no children. It Is now declared that they have actually sepa rated and it is even said the princess had gone to America, but this is not confirmed. Not specialization but versatility this Is the slogan of Mrs. Henry Hen derson, of Los Angeles, a woman Jf more talents than can he counted on the fingers of two hards. Though she takes an active part In the social lire of Los Angeles, and fulfills a high standard as home maker. Mrs. Hender son yet finds time for other work; and Cider Found to Be Good Remedy for Gout ranaln In Heveraae Also Make It Tonic for Kver body Relpen for Preparing; Drink and Jelly i.tveo. THE the unfortunate individual, loving e good things of the table, yet afflicted with gout, may now take heart of grace, for there Is one re freshing beverage which will not be denied him. Cider. It has been dis covered. Is excellent for gout and la a splendid tonic, for everybody because of the amount of tannin It contains. Here is a recipe, handed down In a New England family, for'old-fashloned mulled cider: Beat two eggs with two tablespoons of sugar and potir over the mixture a quart of freshly boiled cider, stirring constantly. Put the mixture on the stove and boll It aaain. Add some mint leaves, some thin slices oi lemon snd serve Immediately In tall glasses thick enough to stand the steaming beverage without cracking. Cider Jelly Is a delicious dessert for Autumn, duys. Dissolve two ounces of gelatine In a little water and when thoroughly dis solved add two and a half pints of cider and a pound of granulated sugar. Boil until it begins to thicken, then strain through cloth and pour Into a Jelly mould. erve with whipped cream. CHICAGO GETS BAD EGGS linker Says Peculiar Odor Doesn't Mean Hen Fruit Spoiled. CHICAGO, Dec. 1. "O. some of the eggs are spotted and some of 'em have a slight odor, but. pshaw that doesn't make a decayed egg." observed Martin Johnson. proprietor of the Columbia Bakery, when arraigned on a health department charge of using "spotted and smelly" egss. "Well. I'm afraid it does." said Judge Newcomer. "Well, if that's so." returned Johnson, "every baker In Chicago is using bad eggs. Everybody in Chicago Is getting bad stuff." HOBBLE SKIRT IS BLAMED Kali Accident! I -a Id to Style and New Foe Is Made. FOilT WAYNE. Ind.. Dec. 1. The of ficials of the Pennsylvania Itsllroad are perturbed over the hobble skirt and the high-heeled shoe, and have become a new foe against them. The reason Is that the record shows 44 accidents to women oa the company's right-of-way acting. singing, painting and writing are Included among her talents. Mrs. Henderson has not appeared profes sionally on the stage, but If all her plans are executed she will next Fall - tn.nn.arv fart-l to her beau- tiful and picturesque home in Califor- nla and will appear before the spot lights as a professional. j The Maharanee of Kapurthala. In dia, and her hurs.nd are visiting in this country. T!:? Maharanee was a Spanish dancer named Anita Doigadoj before her marriage to the Maharajah. Her father, objected to the attentions of even a Maharajah inasmuch as ai marriage meant the loss of her finan cial help. The Maharajah overcame j his objections by givlcg the father J60'. Miss LouU Long was one of the most prominent of the exhibitors at the New York Horse Show. She took second prize In the roadster class on Tuesday with Aspiration, giving way to E. T. Ptotesbury's entry, which eas ily took first. A new member of the Metropolitan Opera Company this season Is Margaret Oher. a Herman sincer. She made her debut last week In the part of Ortrud in "Iohengrln." and scored a great success. While not unnaturally nerv ous on her first appearance, she showed or cars bv reason of the hobbles or the heels in Aurusu Ai in September, anil 52 In October. All had to bo given of ficial notice and meant some outlay by the company. "A woman can't mount a car stop in a proper way with a hobble skirt.'' said an official today. "Their feet are bound and they are liable to trip, caus ing some damage to person or dress, for v.hich they want compensation. "So far as the railroad can do so. we will favor the slit skirt, leg or no leg showing, or a return to common-sense skirts that give a woman's lei? soma freedom of action." School ofTlclals In TtcverTy. Maf.. recnt.y calculated lii men.y gain for lli-lr p'ipils in vocational . J Ji ti.-n. Th.-y tciuml that an cxprndltur. of on eifh boy In iiuiu Irlal training Ii "1 ratei the raplt.tllsailon of the boy'a c.iwmic valua from ItVoo to $13.0 or 1S.!!'. FRUIT LAXATIVE FOR SICK CHILD GIVE "CALIFORNIA SYRUP OF Cleanses tender little stomach, liver and bowels without griping Children love it. Every mother realizes that this Is the children's Ideal laxative and physic be cause they love its pleasant taste and It never fails to effect a thorough "in side cleaesirg" without griping. When your child is cross, irritable. feverish, or breath Is bad. stomach sour. look at the tongue, mother! If coated, give a teaspoonful of 'California Syrup of Figs." and In a few hours all the foul, constipated waste, sour bile and undigested f od passes out of the bowel GIRLS! CLEAN AND BEAUTIFY HAIR NO DANDRUFF 25 GENT DANDER! Try this! Makes hair soft, glossy, fluffy, abundant Stop wash ing the hair with soap. ' Purely try a "Danderine Hair Cleanse" if you wish to immediately double the beauty of your hair. Just moisten a cloth with Danderine and draw it care fully through your hair, taking one small strand at a time, this w ill cleanse the hair of dust, dirt or any excessive oil L(n a few minutes you will be amazed. Your hair will be wavy, fluffy and abundant and possess an incom parable softness, lustre and luxuriance. that she had a fine contralto voire ! pood rante and clear quality and that her dramatic powers are unusually preat. Her conception of the part showed unusual intelliemce and great lllnn are expected of hr in other rcles. She was received with enthusi asm by the audience at the Metropoli tan, which never Is excitable, and was recalled strain anil stain. To Have Smooth. White Soft Skin all Winter (From The Woman Beautiful.) p,es your skin chap or roughen ea.-ily in this weather. r become un duly red or blotchy? Let mo tell you a quick, easy way to overcome the trouble and keep your complexion beautifully white, smooth and soft the Winter long. Just get an ounce of or dinary mi-rcollztd wax at the nearest drug store and use a little before re tiring, as you would ci-ld cream. Upon arising, remove the coating with sudsy water. The wax. through some pe culiar attribute, flecks off the rough, iiscolorei or blemished skin. Tlie worn-out cuticle conies off just like dandruff tin a diseased scalp, only in almost inisitue particles. Mercolized wax simply hastens Nature's work. Used as required, it keeps the face constantly free from devitalized scarf skin anu only the healthy, young looking skin Is in evidence. It's the best treatment known for weather beaten, aired, muddy, freckled, pimpled anil oil tiabeautifiil complexions. Some skins wrinkle easily in Winter. There's an excellent remedy in a harm less wash lotion made by dissolving one oum c powdered saxolite in one half pint witch hazeL This will quickly eradicate every line. Adv. Phone Marshall 13S0. A. DE BLANCHE Ladies' Tailor. Importer. Designer and Maker of Gowns. GOODWIN CORSETS Clone ISIdg., 4IS Washlnalon St. and you have a well, playful child again. . l 4. i;.iA i full nf cold. . t 1 1 1 1 I I J ........ ' ..... throat sore, has slomacn ache, diarrhoea, indigestion, colic remember a good liver and bowel cleaning should always be the first treatment given. Millions of mothers keep "California yrup of Figs" handy: they know a teaspoonful today saves a sick child tomorrow. Directions for liabies. chii dren of all aces and grown-ups are plainly on each bottle. Ask your drucKist for a 50-cent b.mlc of "C:ilif"ri!ia Syrup of Figs. Beware of counterfeits sold here. Get the genuine, made by "California Fi Syrup Company." IUfuse any other fit: syrup with contempt. Adv. Besides beautifying the hair, one ap plication of Danderine dissolves tver particie of dandruff; invigorates the scalp, stopping Itching and falling hair. Danderine is to the hair what freili showers of rain ar)d sunshine are t vegetation. It goes riglit to the root.-. Invigorates and strengthens them. Its exhilarating, stimulating and life-producing properties cause the hair t grow long, strong and beautiful. You can surely have pretty, soft, lustrous hair, and lots of it. If yon vrill Ju.-t get a 25 cent bottle of Knosllon s Danderine from any druj? at-jie or toilet counter and try it as directed Adv:- FIGS