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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (March 3, 1912)
THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, MARCIT 3. 1912. NEW PARIS TEA OR BOUDOIR GOWNS ARE OF SOFTEST SATIN AND LACE On Costly Chiricter of Lace Depend Luxury of Ooim Girdle Is High Easily Donned Negligee Makes Pretty Garment Suitable for Breakfast Wear Thin Cotton Crepe Used. ; . T V ji v r'--- -'m i h' like the Iock glove. re deUoately embroidered. Over the corset goes a combination corset cover and drawer of fine batiste or handkerchief linen, made entirely by -and and trimmed with flat Insertions of lace, set In with beadings or whipped seams, and with pin tucks run. of course by hand with the finest spool cotton. Most women, under evenina- gowns of clinging, thin silk, wear the new culotte drawer which fits the limb closely and is drawn In at the knee with pin tucks. Sometimes the outer side of the drawer Is slashed almost to the waistline and small straps, buttonholed In scallops, are buttoned across the slashed open ing". Inflniteslmal scallops, some no more than a quarter of an inch across are used on the edges of French lin zerle garments, and under these tiny scallops are scant frills of narrow, real I la-e. The corset Itself Is as soft snd si most as thin as the lingerie. It 1st made of the silky tricot mesh which cllnsrs over the flesh like an eel's skin, and It is cut so skillfully that very few bqnes are required. It may reach al- I most to the knees at the lower edge, but the top will rise only an inch or two above the waist. The young, firm figure needs no extra support above fh cnrspt. but the heavv or mature figure requires a brassiere of cambric and lace which Is now worn Inside and not outside the corset so that the figure effect in very flexible and nat ural. L-asily. a short, soft petticoat Is donned. This petticoat is of batiste with a pleated lace flounce with no under ruffle; or the softest satin with a scanty, corded ruffle. Petticoats are very short now. varying from a length just below the knee to a length Just escaping the top of the high buttoned street boot. GREEK EFFECTS IN TEA GOWNS FASHIONABLE Clinging Crepe de Chine So Employed That Lines of TJncorseted Figure Are . Eevealed at Every Movement Garment Fastens oa One Shoulder. CREAM PUFF EXPERT TELLS BEST WAY TO BAKE Pastry Made According to Recipe of Writer Will Not Mock Cook by Turn ing Out to Be Flabby Wreck. SOME tf n:ot luxurious of the rw Carta tea gowns or bmidnlr gown for thee love'y ru!cs are Intended for afternoon ta In the bou doir, rot In tKe drawing-room are made of softe satin veiled with lace; and on the costly t l:ai ct-r of i:se lace lef-nds I'nurr o. tte tra gown. This model has a tun of -re am ma liiivs lat-e. hordereil all around wltl malines Insertion and this creamy fall of la.e veils a trailing gown of palest blue charmeuse. The high girdle !s of tie rliarmeiue and alon one side of the hodl.e trails a spray of small blue silk flowers. While possessing all the features of ail easily donned negligee, thla pretty garment Is suitable for an appearance at the famllr breakfast table. It la made of thin, cotton crepe with an arbutus design In white on a lavender ground. The slashed sleeve Is grace ful and the fitting of the skirt portion below the high waistline with pin tucking Is an excellent Idea. The skirt is straight and narrow, and with the aliort-walsted. V-shaped bodice, gives old-fashioned, quaint lines to this pretty lavend.r negligee. NO REST CAN BE OBTAINED IN THE NEGLIGEE THAT TRIES THE NERVES Lace Is Now Extravajantly Used on French Boadoir Go-ns-No Corsets Are Worn, and Underwear Is Slim and Soft, to Give No Width to Clinging Gowns of Milady. NKW YoRK. March S lSp-rl.il.) It Is said that no Kirnrh mondnlne e-r puts on an ugly n-gligee for lir hours of repose and relaxation. The train on the nrrrr and e!hetl- t-nrn would b so severe that therx would e no h.'nrnt In the resting hours when the whole belnj should be lMurloulr iMPpr jn.l at p""e. There a wise little New York woman, unable to af ford thousand-franc Part nallaees for t hlf-hour mrtas eh snitrlis fionr a buv lv. mho po.ess one erx 1 lovelv and dainty bon.lo.r gown tth a iarti.'ulriv fetching boudoir cat to rc itch. and three nt rve soothln.1 nrM' are donned on the davs when ihe f-rle unusually ex hausted, fretted or exasperated. It is an unnatural woman who cannot d . nv mora, henertt from nn hour rest. ' lad in lovelv. soft-coUr-l tilings that make her mental picture of hilf sd mlraMv sallrfvlng. than she could wrapped In anv old shihl-v droslr.s goon .euiut i'f tne frlMs and Ilxtnjts th.it warm the fenitnne hesrt. Just now there Is a fanrv for tjreek ejects Ir mv l.tiiv'q chamber Noth ing velum tno us tn the .iv of pegll , t tolerated. Kvcrvthlng mut tlin end wind and drape In classic fasiilon. an.t tn coret Is dl!-ensed with urder these Urec'.ar drap-ries r If the figure is a b't too heavy to make a rorsetleae effect agreeable, soft, almott tinh-'ned glrtile-tov ror sts. reach'rg onl an in'-h r tw above the wartime, are donned. The thing Is to ha aholte eimldenes and freedom of noire nprriil by the tlowlrg and sli I ng foM.,of the n4il are and ln.'l.'. ntal!v to a. hleve ea-jui-aue. unrestricted comfort ard ease, xtecllge Issiaeaaely .reek. The most convenient ard comforta ble nrll4.-e ever thought of has beep denignrd. tv a French couturier for ah .prll brl.le. This n-gl?ree Is "im mensely reek.- as its delighted pos sessor iri rs. and is so adroitly draped thxt. although quite urtrac-Tarent In niaterlil. it reveals a giH)d detl more than it conceals of the h.::nan form di vine. The gown la a tratl rg modt-1 of t-crlse crepe le rhlne. the train being a very r.srrow. sarrly pnfec affair at'Out r Inches long, ard the fKl of the liovn clinging aboit the feet. The tirapery Is drawn up above the hips t fall in sft classic folds over the right shoulder. m;.ere the sown fastens with sn ornarrert cf tarnished gold cord. T.ie left shoulder, hai k sn.l bust are covered with an undraped tunic of thin "cerise ard gold-printed crepe. The woman who prefers something more elaborate and luxurious than this c hastelv c'aaslc draped negligee would go Into rapturea oxer another gown tn this same trousyeau a teagown for afternoon wear In the boudoir when feminine frt.nde drop In f r cup of tea and a chat. This gown has a foundation of pale blus charmeuse that Is quite as clinging an.! narrow as cerise Greek town, but a knee lenctn tunic cf cream laces somewhat c onccsala the figure lines. This lace tunic Is girdled at tho hii.i waistlina with blue rt.armeuea and the little snortwaisfecj hodi- e. crossed simply in fichu at)! of.- Ui bt.su Is trintmed with rose, tints made of bluei satin ribbon. The palest of pale tints are u-ed in all French boudoir wear, strong pinks and blues being avoided n everv case, and pastel or even "washed-out " tints substituted. There Is a fad among French fashionables Just now for lingerie run lt't narrow bla. k velx-et instead of pale colored wanh ribbons, and thojgh this thread ing with black veJvet eoems a weird notion, the lines of Mack. showing through thin frocks, are really rather chic Rciaatcslr a lleaefiWeil. It. for going on Mo tlie equally In teresting subje. t of lingerie, the scribe must tell you of an exquisite boudoir gown seen the other morning In a Klfth-avenue shop, and which a clever young woman, planning an Kastes trousseau. Immediately went home and eonid with the remains of an oid nartv frock and four yards of laven .i-i- 'rblffon. The foundation of th i trr was a trfectix' straight, nar r..w silo of white satin which had short kimono sleeves edged with frills cf cream lace and a neck rounded out In jeune fllle fashion and ftnlshod with a cording of satin. The foot of this satin slip fell to the anklese and was finished with two narrow frills of the erccr.i lace. The tunic was of lavender chiffon and was not seamed In an wv Tlie. f ur-vard length of chiffon was slmplv f'.ung over the shouldors, n V-shaped opening being cut for the nock. This V-shaped opening and also the e!ges of the chlfion were finished with very narrow pearl bead trimming. tn e.ises were caught togother be neath the arms; again Just below the waistline, and again at the hip. The lower part of the chiffon was rounded and the weight of the jarl trimming held It against tho narrow satin slip In rrc.fnt ItnCS. With a. I her robes intlr.ie which la a mo.lern and fashionable word for mv ladv wear the most distracting Slippers matched by slik stocking which of course match the negligee In color. When the tailored street costume of siTge or worsted mixture is removed Indoors, the smart buttoned boots are removed also and special boudoir slippers are donned. Just r.ow It Is tne fad to wear even or flesh-colored stockings with even ones street buttoned boots, and these .lockings mar he retained with t!-. pretty boudo'r slippers. If black liose are worn with street boots they must be changed for light colored or white ones in the boudoir If the ensemble Is to present the desirable " effect of luxury and daintlnesa. But of course the woman who can afford luxurious boudoir belongings has usually a maid who attends to the boot and stocking exchange when she. brlngj out tha comfortable robe Intline. With the Creek negligees are worn heellees kid slippers, but lace and ailk boudoir gowns are usually accompanied by tha roqueitl;h French mules with high heels snd satin toes. Frills Are Baalsked. Lingerie la designed now with one inalterable Idea a!wa In mind; and thai Is tat) narrowness of tts fash-1 lonable silhouette. Frlil have been absolutely banished and the new gar ments are so exquisitely fitted that even ribbons, run through eyelets are really not necessary to hold them In place. Indrr her corset the well dressed woman wears a silk, or silk and cotton union garment which may be aa high or as low In the neck as she pleases and which may reach only to tlis knee, or clear to the ankle. Beautiful garments of this sort come In the same sort of silk that gloves are made of. and the undergarments. I BT LILIAN TING1.K. SOME day a culinary philosopher will arise who will tell us why cream puffs are so perennially pop ular. I cannot tell why: but I know they must be, or every cooking class would not Inquire expectantly. When can we make cream -puffs? 'And every Spring would not bring mo a stream of requests for cream puff recipes. Then cream puff sesson lasts all the year round in bakeries and lunch rooms; but in economically inclined do. mestic circles It usually coincides with the time the ordinary hen really set tles down to pay for her board snd make living easier for her owner. The Spring bride and other brides, for that matter generally yearns to make cream puffs In hr own particular oven, for her own particular captive regard less of the fact that the. captive In question ("lord and mastar" Is the more usual term) may perhaps prefer a Juicy roast or a perfectly broiled beefsteak to the creamiest puff that ever was perpetrated. ' Who shall sing the tragedies of the "puff that plopped" the puff that stood so hlgit and stately In the oven and lay later a flabby wreck on the kitchen tables a mere pancake with no inside to fill with cream or with any thing else? Not I. anyway: for my theme Is "the perfect puff, product of prudence tin mixing) and patience (In haklngl. There Is absolutely no reason why the cat ef ul beginner, who can control her oven, should not succeed the very first time she tries. Tbla Is the Was- to Make 'Em. First the proportions. One half cup butter, one cup boiling water, four eggs (or three. If very large), one cup (level) once sifted flour. If the flour Is very strong bread flour, it Is often advisable to take out one or two level tablespoons of flour and substitute a similar quantity of cornstarch. Next the method. Put the butter (like the butter for the March hare's watch. It should be "the best but ter") with the water. Into a pan large enough to allow of tile thorough beat- Ina of the remaining ingredients. As soon as the boiling point is reached add the flour all at once and stir vigorously until the mass tends to cling together and leave the sides or tne pan. then remove from tne rire. Danger point No. 1 Is conking tne flour so long that all elasticity Is de stroyed and the grease begins to "fry" out of It. It needs to be cooked Just long enough to thicken the starch In the flour and give an elastic mass. In which bubbles can be blown later. Let cool for a moment, still In the pan. then add the eggs, unbeaten, one at a time, beating at least three min utes, and preferably five, between each egg. If you use a well-proportioned wooden spoon the beating Is very easy; and with a smooth, round wooden han dle you can't wear a "spoon grove" In even the softest of Inexperienced hands. Be Carefol VVItk the Eggs. Danger point No. I Is adding the eggs to the paste while it Is hot enough to cook them, ami so destroy their elas ticity. On the other hand, they must be added before the cooked flour-paste be comes perfectly cool and stiff, or they will not give a good texture for shaping. And the paste must be thoroughly beat en, since you have no baking powder or other leavening, and are relying upon the sudden expansion of the air you entangle in the sticky paste, and the steam generated by the high tempera ture of your oven, to "puff" your paste. The cooked starch and the egg are elas tic and not easily penetrated by the heated ga": so they tend to rise up in one big bubble In the oven. The paste should be. when well beat en". Just stiff enough to hold Its shape. For cream puffs, you pile It In neat rounded heaps, about two Inches apart (to allow for expansion), on a greased baking sheet. For eclaira you force the paste through n tube or pnper cone In smooth, even "fingers." This quantity makes IS small puffs or a dozen large ones. How to Operate the Ovea- Place In a rather hot oven, a little above "moderate." and do not open the dour for 25 minutes. Then you may "peek." for your encouragement, but on no account take the puffs out. even though they ere beautifully puffed and are turning brown. Always cook cream puffs and pop-overs longer than secma necessary. Danger point No. 3 lies In taking: the puffs from the oven before the paste has stiffened, tn the heRt. so ns to be no longer elastic. Then it will hold Its shape even after the air Inside It cools or escapes. If the sides are the least bit "leathery" in the cracks, clown will come the puffs as soon as the tempera, ture Is lowered. Leave them In at leest 35 minutes possibly longer, if there remains any softness in tiie cracks. If there seems any danger of their over-browning usually there Is none lower the tem perature slightly, and gradually, by at tention to drafts and checks, or by turn ing down the gas. as tho case may be; but don't take the puffs out until thor oughly dry and firm, even though it seems "an awful long time" since they went In. Too slow an oven, and too hasty withdrawal are common causes of failure. When you ''feel perfectly sure" they are done noting time and tests aa above, leave tiiem In another minute, then take out one. Shut the Oven Door Quickly. Don't leave the oven door open or pull out the baking: tin. Now see how the one puff behaves when It reaches the tahle. If It stands up like a soldier, take out the others, and let cool, grad ually not In a draft. In some ox-ens there may be a ten dency to burn underneath. In that case slip an asbestos mat under the baking sliest but don't take out the puffs, and avoid letting- a stream of coid air play on them. When cool, they are ready to fill. Cut a slit in the top or side of puffs, or In the side, near the bottom, of eclairs, and Insert the filling with a spoon. Cream puffs are filled with either whipped cream, sweetened and flavored with vanilla or "English cream" cus tard, given below. Eclairs nearly al waya have the custard filling flavored sometimes with coffee or chocolate In place of plain vanilla. In hot weather a little dissolved gelatine is used In the whipped cream filling, to give firm ness. A Bavarian cream might be used for a change; or, for immediate serv ice. Ice cream. Cream puffs are usually highly sprinkled with confectioner's sugar. Eclairs are dipped or covered with chocolate frosting usually fondant frostings. Sometimes eclairs are sprinkled with chopped nuts. Keelpe for the Cream. For English Cream One pint milk, the yolks of 2 or 3 eggs, or 1 whole egg and 1 yolk. teaspoon salt. IVi cups sugar, S level tablespoons corn starch or 4 cup flour and H teaspoon vanilla. Mix the cornstarch with the sugar. Pour on the hot milk, return to the pan (Inside of double boiler), and cook directly over the fire, until the mixture bolls and thickens. Thn cook over hot water 15 minutes. Beat the eggs very thoroughly with the salt, pour over them a little of the hot mix ture. Beat again, then return to the pan. and stir constantly until the egg Is cooked, but not curdled. Set In cold water to cool, stirring occasionally to avoid the formation of a skin on top: flavor when cool. If the whole egg is used, add yolks as above, but beat the white, separately, until stiff, and fold i ;! - I - V. ;-:?f't 1 Jj j - . ' ' " L . , - " ryyS ;y o r ; : ' m 4s . f i jc - - - 5 rssc . - 4i . . sit " I - 7 .4? ; ; -f . I -. . e.; " c- i-f S"S wsewss' , fi r 3 . ' 'ix 1 , J , ' i e if r ? - V : ' " , i ' - 'S t - r: t i & !, - - ' , , ' , f ft f. ,". , - .r? i. 7-v i , ' , - e A. ' ' i ' ,'?clf t ' '.. - . , . :- -sj v ' .M . '.V ::!. ' .,. M iii iTiV'iiHH'ilii 11 ii iu) llhiiilfiiiii An "I" itiitri 1 .ac-O a CLA-SIC BOl'DOIR COW.V VO WITHOUT CORSETS. CAP OF LACE AND RIBBON HIDES EVEN MOST DISARRANGED COIFFURE Head Adornment for Morning Wear, Attractive and Graceful, Softens Lines of Cheeks and Throat and Shades Complexion From Light of Early Day Cream Lace Veil Is Employed. I If.SIUU IP I CAD V ultra fashionable circles now there there is a craze for Greek effects In tea gowns and other garments in tended for boudoir wear. The tea frown illustrated is made of clingring crepe de chine and is so fashioned that the lines of the uncorseted figure are re vealed at every movement. The gown fastens on one shoulder with a single clasp and ornament. Tho upper part, over one shoulder, is of printed cerise and gold crepe: the drapery is of cev ise crepe de chine and the pointed train at the back is very graceful. Into the cold mixture. If a very firm filling is liked the amount of corn starch or flour may be very slightly in creased, i'lour gives the better flavor. A tablespoon of butter In the cooked cornstarch is something of an improve ment. Add more sugar 2 to 4 table spoons, if a very sweet filling is liked. ror chocolate cream, use melted chocolate, to taste, in the miik. For Mocha cream use a few spoonfuls of very strong coffee In place of a similar amount of milk. Add vanilla to either of these flavorings. .ZJT. s5Vcs r-IE most unprepossessing early morning coiffure Is entirely con cealed under thla distracting cap of lace and ribbon which trails down over the shoulders In most graceful fashion, covering not only the hair, but also softening the lines of rhaek and throat and shading the complexion from the searching morning light. The cap is made of a cream lace veil in a pretty Lierre pattern, the ends of tha veil making the long draped corners of the cap, and the border being frilled under loops of blue ribbon to form tha front. Tha ribbon is in the palest possible shad of del blue. Though not at all elaborate In effect, this dainty gown represents a deal of handwork and such articles of lingerie are more expensive than garments load ed with lace and embroidery. The fin est French nainsook, with fullness added by band run pin tucks forms this gown and all the insets of narrow al. are put into the nainsook with the rolled and whipped seams which only French convent fingers aeem to know how to do. The ribbon is run through hand-buttonholed eyelets. Menus for One Week Tuet!ay. Cream of spinach irnip Broiled pork tender! oinn Frenched Brown soubife sauce Potato roil Apple fritters. Jellied fruit salad Cofree Wednesday. Corn soup Roaet shoulder of lamb Sliced currants Brown potatoes. Lady cabbage Chicory saiad Strawberry popover Puffs Coffee Thursday. Brown potato soup ' Roman pie Tomato sauce Scalloped oyster plant Lettuce salad Prune poufflee Coffee Friday. Green pea soup Nut ard celery loaf Pouiette sauce Brown shoestring potato pancake Lettuce, eg-p and pi mien to salad Jjatc pudding Coffee Saturday. Celery soup Baked halibut with dressing Tomato rice border Vegetable salad Baked caramel custards Coffee tfnuday. Brown soup Roast beef Yorkshire pudding - Brown potatoes Creamed celeriao Grapefruit salad Marshmallotr pudding Coffee Monday. Barley aotlp Beef stew In casserole with potato crust Minced carrots with peas Field salad Cottage pudding with raspberry sauce Coffee Ralads and two quarts of hot water daily..- No water with meals. An exclusive meat diet would not bo advisable, although one meal each day may consist of meat, lettuce salad, and fruit: or meat, potato and fruit. A breakfast of cereal and fruit might ac company t tits dinner, but this variety is not strictly in accor4 with the one article diet. It does not give the ex treme monotony in which the secret of the miracle lies. Instead of rice, po tatoes, cereals,' or macaroni, we may have puree of peas or beans. They con- t tain more proteids than meat. Salt in Chiiiuifye The Commoner. In building a chimney it is recom mended to put a quantity of salt into the mortar with which the inter-course of brick is laid. Tho effect will be that there will never be any accumula tion of soot in the chimney, for the reason that the salt in the portion of mortar which is exposed will absorb the moisture- on damp days, and the soot, becoming: damp, will fall down from the walls of the chimney, and may be easily removed. To Reduce AV client Sensibly. Harper's Bazar. Another reduction diet is fresh green YOUR FRECKLES eed Attention In March or Faee Will Stay Covered. Now is tlie time to take "special care or the complexion if you wish it to look well ths rest of the year. Th March winds brinsr out freckles that will stay all riummer unles removed now with othine double strength. This prescription for the cure of freckles Is the discovery of an eminent skin specialist, and is bo uniformly successful that It is sold by Woodard, Clarke & Co. under guarantee to re fund the- money if it fails. Get an ounce of othine double strength, and even the first night's application will show a wonderful improvement, some of the smaller freckles even vanishinsT entirely.