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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Aug. 6, 1911)
G fllE SUNDAY OREGOyiAy. PORTLAND. AUGUST 6, 1911. - PARIS MODISTES, BY NEW DESIGN OF GOWN, ACCENT HEIGHT OF. WEARER Clinging Lines Brought Chit ty "Weighted Embroidery on Transparent Chiffons Artistic Effects Are All-Important Consideration in Creation of Charming Evening Apparel by Trench Makers. I I I, J I V V ' ' I .".. l' . ft-- '7 ?Y -Bl.s Ann. S (Special .) A Bquare I 1 train attArheJ In ranrl tyl 1 one of the most potent device by which the Pari dreanmaker auirtfests height, and Just at preent the train usually I added to the (town aa a epa r.io fpitur. Instead of being cut all In one with the aklrt. The itown pic tured Is a rather spectacular, but very beautiful model, designed for a young French actress. The material la pale green chiffon, heavily weighted with steel embroidery to give cllnirlng lines, and dropped over green satin. The rape-like bodice of steel embroidered chiffon over pink chiffon is atartllngly transparent In effect. Sometimes the decolletsge reaches to the waist. The clever French coutu rier studies artistic effects, and when his customer has a very beautiful back the frock under consideration la often startled away to the waistline at the back, while the derolletage In front la very modest Indeed. Thi lovely din ner gown of yellow chiffon, embroi dered with white beads In an Oriental Answers to Correspondents Bt LILLIAN TINGLE. J4LKM. Or.. JuUr IS pt repeat r.cir. tor "-hiopi Pr- in it Jr In the iTtioaun. It r d.teloua but I Una mr e;.ipln 's r ro menu.'O omthln tht will Blrkl which bs bcom dull by iVm from the boiiln a.ttl? 1 tried ordin.rr c:.nrs. The tea articles rj nlrrf;iVT lntr-.t.r.. I he ,na tarrarnn. sro-rmn In this rT towa. Vours. very thnktul!y. I AM not q-tlto sure that either of the following la the recipe you ask for. If you do not recognise It. pleas write again. Chipped peara (1 pound pear. 4 pound sugar, pound canton ginger, 4 lemons. Wipe the pears, remove stems, quarter and core, then cut In small piece. Add the sugar, and cut up the ginger. In layers, and let stand over nlghL In tb morning add the lemons, cut In small piece: and sim mer slowly about 1 hours, or until the fruit la clear-looking and ceaaaa to float. A more delicate flavor la given by using the Juice of the lemons, and the yellow part only of the peel, this being grated or cut In very nilnut strips, aa preferred. Clipped peara (2) Use hard peara, wash. peel, core and cut the fruit Into very thin slices. For t pounds of fruit, weighed after slicing, use S pounds sugar. 1 pint water, the Juice of 4 lem 1 1. the yellow rind of 4 lemons, cut In iong narrow strips, yellow on both sides; -j pound preserved gtnger. sliced very thin. Put sll together. In layers. In a preserving kettle; boll slowly about one hour. For the dulled nickel have you tried ordinary whiting? Dip a bit of flannel In sweet oil or kerosene, then In whit ing. Rub first with this, then wipe and rub again with a cloth moistened with alcohol ar.d dipped In whiting, and fin ish o.T with a chamois polishing. Sev eral applications may be required be fore much brilliancy la achieved. If the dullness Is of long standing. In any rase, you can hardly expect to get the daszilng effect of new nickel, especially as the use of many polisher tends to make minute scratches on the metal. Possibly some reaUer. who has bad sim ilar difficulty, can suggest a better method than the above, which, how ever, has the merit of being both In expensive and harmlesa. I am very glad If you found the tea article Interesting. The Tarragon Is. indeed. treasure. For Winter use you may store some dry. Tarragon vinegar Is mr.de from superfine ordinary vine gar, by Infusing the fresh or dry herb, and bottling when the flavor haa been extracted. As it Is comparatively ex pensive to buy and not always attain able at ordinary grocery stores, a bot !S. ill 'mwm f I 1 i . " f I ! 1 . 1 ft. pattern, has a graceful fichu draped I yellow chiffon, the flchn drapery cot bodice of whit lace veiled with the erlns; the arms tn lieu of aleevea. tle of Tarragon vinegar, daintily put up, would make an acceptable little Christmas gift for any young salad-lov-Ing matron. Tou see my mind runs on Christmas present Just now. because I am In the midst of "Christmas shop ping." It Is so much easier to choose and buy all sorts of things on bright July or August mornings when the stores are uncovered and to make thing on pleasant porches than It Is to struggle with other frantic shoppers on dark December afternoons, or to wear out one's eye and nerve sitting up late to finish things off. Portland. Or.. July . 1S1L Will you please give, throufh the columns of The Sunday Oreronuui d) the ueea of arrowroot and how It la used In whito cskef Is It preferable to cornstarch T It) .In making caramel evstmrd. bow caa 1 overcome the caramel sticking to the bottom of the cuneT Whea mr euatard Is baked there la usu ally a spoonful of caramel, aad the rest is a sticky mass which require several days' soaking. Thanking yoa if you will answer tbeae questions. MRS. J. C. U. Arrowroot Is a form of almost ab solutely pure starch, prepared from the tuber of a West Indian plant. That im ported from Bermuda Is considered best. It quality I Judged by It whiteness, by the grains being aggre gated Into little lumps, by the Jelly be ing very readily made and being firm, colorless, transparent and of goojl taste. The cooked Jelly will often remain three or tour days without turning thin or sour. when, tinder the same conditions, potato starch Jelly will be come thin In II hours. Seen under the miscroscope the starch granules ap pear smaller than thoae from corn, rtce or potato and this mlscroscopto test 1 accordingly uied to detect adulter ation. Arrowroot, for om not well under stood reason, seems to be more easily digested than other form of starch, by some Invalid. It can sometime be retained when all other kinds of food are rejected, and therefore though ar rowroot preparations have often little nutritive value. In themselves, they msy sometimes pave the way for more nutritious diet later on. The mental attitude of the patient ha occasionally something to do with the use of arrow tool It bas an old-fashioned reputa tion a an "Invalid food." It I more expenalve than ordinary starch, and quite often less easily obtainable, con sequently, some types of dyspeptics will feel that It "does them good" fsr more thsn ordinary starchy prepara tions. I have known patient who "could not digest a thing but the finest arrowroot." take contentedly. In an emergency, carefully prepared corn starch. In the belief that it was arrow root, and find It. apparently. Just as easy of digestion; although, if you had il -ft' - 1 It t:ii- asked them they would have told you that they found cornstarch "quite Indi gestible. The cheaper grades of arrowroot are not Infrequently adulterated with corn starch or potato starch. For most or dinary kitchen purposes cornstarch can take the place of arrowroot. Arrowroot gruel or Jelly Is quite fre quently useful In irritation of the di gestive tract, as In "Summer com plaint." Jt seems to have a slightly astrin gent action and being bland and mucil aginous, tends to form a sort of pro tective coating, at least such Is the theory. Arrowroot was much used for thl purpose before cornstarch could be obtained tn as pure quality as at present. , In cakes. Ilka cornstarch. It dilute the sticky gluten of the flour, giving a texture shorter, more tender, more crumbly and less elastic and likely to fall. Used In rather high proportion It was the essential Ingredient in the old-fashioned snowcake." now so sel dom seen, which was so difficult to slice and to eat gracefully, owing to it melting tendencies. Being thu admir ably adapted to provoke thirst. It was the Ideal accompaniment of the "glass of wine." homemade or otherwiae with out which no "polite call" was com plete. Did any of my reader ever call upon "elderly gentlewomen" (the race 1s aid to be now almost extinct) with snowy side-curls, satin dresses and lace caps? Did you ever alt on a small "cricket," struggling with a slice of dangerously crumbly, though delicious, "snowcake," and the glass of "shrul" bestowed as being more suitable than wine to your tender years? Or was It an equally crumbly "ar rowroot wlne-blscult?" In any case, did you find your In fant mind dlatracted between the dif ficulties of "being good," keeping crumbs off the floor, being "seen and not heard." avoiding a choking fit and trying to make sense out of the com pliments, genealogies, remlnlnlscences and pussllng phrases of the stream of Olympian conversation carried on above your berlbboned little head? Who eats arrowroot cake, wears lace "lappeta." and recalls genealogies now adays? Possibly the change Is due to the substitution of cornstarch. Perhaps some recipes may be of In terest. Arrowroot for Invalids Mix two teaspoons arrowroot with three tablespoons cold water; add one cup boiling water, stirring constantly. Bring to boiling point again, then cook three to five minutes in a double boiler, add a tiny pinch of salt and flavor according to taste and circumstances, with sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg or lemon rind. Add wine or brandy, if ordered by the doctor. For Intestinal disturbances It Is often given slightly thicker than this, and taken V'P'd rather thsn hoL with a lit tle brandy. If cornstarch-gruel is ub- ) stltuted considerably longer cooking not less than 20 minute should be given. Egg arrowroot Make as above, using milk in place of water. When slightly cooled, beat In the yolk,, or the white. or the whole of an egg, as ordered. This may be taken as it Is, hot; or allowed to "set" as a cold custard; or may be steamed, or "baked" In the oven, in hot water, as a custardr Arrowroot cake for Invalids Four ounces arrow root, four ounces flour. in ounces sugar, and 10 ounces of ggs weighed In their shells (usually 5 eGra-s. though small ones may be necessary. Sift the arrowroot with the flour. and make like rloe sponge cane, without liquid or baking powder. Corn starch may be substituted, but is some what less digestible. , Old-fashioned snow cake 1. One-half nound arrowroot, one-quarter pound powdered sugar, one-quarter pound fresh butter; two egg whites, the juice of a lemon. Mix as usual for butter cakes. Bake In a loaf, lining the tin with greased Daper. One hour will nrnhnhlv be needed for baking. It Is cut in sauares and served without frostlnir. Old-fashioned snow cake 2. Same aa above, but with three egg whites In place of two. . Flavored with almond or vanilla, tn place of lemon Juice. Modern snow cake One-quarter cup butter, one cup sugar, one-half oup milk, one and one-third cups flour, nne-thlrd cud cornstarch or arrowroot, two and one-half teaspoons baking powder, whites of two eggs, one-half teaspoon vanilla, or one-quarter tea snoon almond extract. Mix as usual for butter cakes. Arrowroot cream, to take the place of custard, where eggs are not allowed One and one-half ounces arrowroot, one pint milk, one-half pint cream, su gar and flavoring according to taste and circumstances. Make as In "arrow root for an invalid." and turn out to cool. Serve In tall glasses. Another way Is to omit the cream In cooking, allow the mixture to become thick and nearly cold, and then fold in the cream, whipped stiff. This gives a very light and fluffy texture to the custsrd. The whole secret of successfully lined moulds for caramel custard lies in the manipulation. Hold the tin in a cloth and drop the melted caramel on the sides, not on the bottom. Turn the mould around so that the sides are well coated. The bottom will practically take care of Itself. Do not put In too much caramel. The beginner usually tends to overcook the caramel, use too much of It, and let It all slip to the bottom of the mould, where It form a hard, thick lump, such as iyou de scribe. Of course the tin Is ungreased. By coating the sides well, and the bot tom but allghtly. all the caramel will melt and run around your custard as sr.uce. and soaking will be quite un necessary. Little Elegancies for the Summer Girl IMPORTED note paper of the thin glared sort has the envelopes lined with tissue In coronation purple. This Is extremely modish. Writing pads of purple learner, w.. blotting paper matching", are sold In some stores for 11.88. Some are fitted out with a stick of purple sealing wax and a pen handle and pencil in the same color. These handsome trifles are used both for color nd mourning. The purple craze runs even to hand kerchief borders, petticoats, pajamas and parasols. All of tnese minB used with white gowns the pajamas excepted, of course, The newest kink for these Is a gathering at mo v,. of the leg about the ankle, such styles going under the name of Turkish or harem pajamas. Many girls prefer pajamas to the conventional night gown and they are certainly better for camping. Parisian Ivory is the name given to imported celluloid, and in the rich creamy material are seen any of lovely conveniences i"r u. table. Glove stretchers, powder ana rouge boxes, pin trays and hand mir rors are some of the dainty trifles. The same articles In domestic celluloid often show the rich cream, and such fittings are more used In Summer than those of silver. . Antique sugar shakers, or those patterned after the old designs, make beautiful holders for glove poa. They are In silver with much lovely nu... n.rlr and cost from 13 UP. Shield pins of solid g-old are the latest notion for elegant girl dressers. The tiny fasteners are In the exact shape of the small rounded wire ptns that self for S cents a card, but the girl who owns gold shield pins always takes more care of them. Such con veniences are indispensable when away from home and short of sewing materials, and card of .the gold pins makes a nice present for a girl friend. A yard of fine white or pale cream scrim costs 35 cents, and it may be turned Into a neck finish that would cost several dollars if bought ready made. Maids who help with their own finery cut the scrim Into a bias, which, when folded once, makes a band some thing over half an Inch wide. White silk seam ribbon Is sewed to the raw edge and the banding Is used at the top of high collars and at the bottom of sleeves. Sailor collar and cuffs are sometimes fashioned of fine white . handkerchiefs with elaborate colored borders. The man' moucholr Is. used, for the fem inine article Is not big enough. Two handkerchief are required for a deep collar and wide flare cuffs. What Is left from the collar handkerchief Is used for a little Jabot, and the fixings go with white waists or frocks. Straw hats that have seen their best days are sometimes entirely covered with dotted muslin, or black and white or plain colored veiling. The same materials may be shirred over a wire frame and then a little hand straw braid put on to give the headpiece the correct look. A French hat seen re cently that was originally priced S25 was covered In this way with a simple black and white muslin. The shape was a sort of mushroom, the edge and part of the crown being of black straw braid. A wreath of tiny pink roses and a twist . of pale blue satin ribbon were the trimmings. A combination pantaloon and corset cover entirely of Valenciennes and thin lawn, put together In strips. Is a Pari sian novelty any girl could copy for a tenth or less of the shop price. All the banding is on the bias and of course there are lovely beading, rlhbon draw strings and coquettish rosettes at the correct points. Hoop earrings are allowed girls from 17 up. but they must be of coral, tiny seed pears or plain gold. A well-brought-up young person does not wear diamonds and all her earrings have screw fastenings. Some of the more exclusive shops are showing made sashes and matching hair fixings for misses' dance frocks. Dainty flowered silks and silver and gold tissues are cut bias, or else wide ribbon in these materials will be used. One saslr of gold tissue ribbon had a waist knot of pale blue satin berries, a similar knot showing on the narrow gold bandeaux for the hair. The sash ends are long or short, as is liked, and both of the dainty fixings are all ready to put on. MARY DEAN. Queen Elizabeth's Ring. London Mirror. A small gold ring the famous Jewel given by Queen Elizabeth to her fa- j CHARMING COSTUME WORN IN PARIS SUITABLE FOR WARM FALL PAYS Attractive Mid-Season Gown Is Supple Mixture of Mohair and Wool Threads Skirt Is Slashed and Simulated Tunic, Trimmed With Fringe White Satin Revers New Note. ,.-7 , k ' 4 - NEW YORK, Aug. 6. (Special.) For the stretch of warm, bright days which come In September, October and November, this attractive between-season model was planned. vorlte, the Earl of Essex was sold at Christie's yesterday afternoon for 3412 10s 3250 guineas, or about J17, 000. It was bought by Lord Mlchelham. son of the late Baron Hermann de Stern, the famous banker millionaire. From the first bid of 150 guineas the price rose by hundreds to 1000 guineas; Anally, the sum of 3412 10s, reached by 100-guinea bids, was unchallenged, and the ring was knocked down to Lord Mlchelham. The ring was given by Queen Eliza beth to the Earl of Essex, and had a strange and tragic history. This Is Its romantic story: Queen Elizabeth gave to her favorite, the Earl of Essex, a ring with the promise that whatsoever crimes his enemies might accuse him of, a return of the ring would act as a pledge that she would pardon him. or at least admit of him giving an explanation to justify him self in her presence. Essex fell into disfavor and was condemned. He entrusted the ring, so the story goes, to the Countess of Not tingham, a relative, but no keen friend of the Earl, to be sent to Elizabeth. Through some female caprice the mes sage was nt sent and Essex lost his head. I s Bits of Piazza Needlework. Pittsburg Leader. The woman who does not tramp, golf, swim, play tennis, or care to bo on the water, wisely provides some thing pretty In the way cf needlework (Li 'irZ-l ItmakeVrinkles XT MRS. NETTIE HARRISONS LULA MONTEZ EiqsltWelr dellcafs, (irllscttn tn sosdirfullf snecflrs for rJrisklts isd MassHt. It li t trot compliilu beantiflsr and grolaclor, the rttult el 25 year Baantf Culhiia practlct and ins acknowltdgts oerfactlea et toilet cream. Jar ( 3 iMntka rraatmant US cauls at all dmajitra, Fp c C Saaipla and laiaretilnf lock M Hair aad n 1 1- aaut, Cultora tor Woaai aaj Is aad st SKIDMORE DRUG CO, 151 Third fit Portland, rs -Tf i7Z A-- ' f . s ? V: 'A- . FRESCH TAILORED SUIT FOR FALIa. The material Is black permo fabric supple mixture of mohair and wool threads, which forms a self-toned pat tern over the lustrous surface of the material. The skirt is slashed almost for a Summer diversion In the coun try; ' for after the first two or three days of blessed Idleness "resting" be comes irksome and one longs for something to do to break the mo notony. Summer needlework should be of a sort not demanding too concentrated an attention, for the vacation weeks should be a time of relaxed nervous energy if they are to be of any bene fit, and the woman who sits bent over an intricate bit of embroidery or worsted work, with fixed attention and frowning brow in an effort to puzzle out stitches or colors or pattern, might, as well be at home In her own flat, with elevated trains roaring around the corner, for all the benefit she de rives from the lovely panorama of lake, mountains or meads spread be fore her. There are making of bags FRECKLES -P. a- a a . New Drug That Quickly Removes These Homely Spots There's no longer the slighest need of feeling ashamed of your freckles, as a new drug, othine double strength, has been discovered that is a . positive cure for these homely spots. Simply get one ounce of othine double strength, from "Woodard, Clarke & Co., and . apply a little of it at night, and in the morninec you will see that even the worst have begun to disappear, while the light freckles have van ished entirely. It is seldom that more than an ounce is needed to completely clear the skin and gain a beautiful, clear complexion. . , Be sure to ask for the double-strength othine, as this is sold under guarantee of money back if it fails to remove the freckles. , to the knee over an under box pleat and the simulated tunic is trimmed with fringe, which is to be the trim ming par excellence, says Paris. The revers of white satin are a new note that is distinctly Parisian. and handsome reticules and opera bags for Christmas presents next Winter. Jellied Apples Get some of the first crisp, fresh harvest apples for this favorite dish. Pare them, core them and place them in a covered dish with the juice of a lemon, half a cup of wa ter and a tablespoonful of granulated sugar for each apple. Bake them care fully until they are tender all the way through, but have not lost their shape. Then place them In a mold, or else place each apple in a cup. To the liquor they have been cooked In add powdered gelatin that has been soft ened In cold water about a teaspoon f ul of gelatin for each apple, and sugar, water and lemon juice to make enough Jelly to cover each apple If they are In the cups, or to fill the mold. If they are arranged In a mold. Serve thern with cream and sugar.