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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (May 21, 1911)
THE SUNDAY OKEGOXIAN", PORTLAND, MAT 21, 1911. 3' nettes look well in gray, sage green, azure, and black, and .white, which, by the way. Is the favorite echeme t present for all dres. Muddy complex ions and colorless hair, must avoid yellow-browna. slate -tinted grays, dead white, all black, and the paler blues. For these persons & darkish gown and a black hat with a bit of color where It Is most becoming: are the get-up ad Tlnahlc. But. then, who can tell of the greater subtleties of dress in cold words. The Lady Fashion has chameleon moods, and what will look well on one woman would kill another of the same type. Everything must be tried, tested and proved Acceptable to mirror and friends. As I have said before, one must go about it with fasting and prayer or else find the great soul that understands the needs of beauty in the lines and colorings of dress. HAREM COSTUME ALL THE RAGE NOW AT FASHIONABLE BATHING RESORTS BATHING SUITS NOT MEANT FOR SALTY SEA ARE NOW IN VOGUE Narragansett, Atlantic City and Other Fashionable Watering Places Show Elaborate Costumes Hats Are Worn by "Sand" Bathers White Is Color Popular on Private Beaches. Women of Smart Set rind Nothing Immodest in This New Skirt for Ocean "Dips" Knitted Worn Allow Wearers Ferfect Freedom and Yet Cling Closely to Figure. Jersey Suits 1 j The Beverages for the Home Table 71 ,!? L f O. if'- -I i - - . i M- . r . , f. V J; ; : . i p- 4 ! , " ' ' cui3 V l"'r " 'V ' " I J 1 Jtw" I'll ' "-J U" New 1 Vnltl whlc KW TOKK. May 10. I Special. Ilk the harem klrts. upon ch ronwrr, live American wonifa looked with a disapproving eye. the Jolly llttl harem bathing suit la taking Ilka wildfire. There ta noth ing Immodest about th! nf w bathing klrU which, aa vrjr woman tnuat ad mit, la g!orlouly well adapted for fun In tha water and on the bearh. The new aklrt, moreover, max be worn without tha bother of knlrkera or trunka underneath, maklna- but two garment. Jeraey and skirt, to bt car ried back and forth In the bathing bag. Women who ewlrn will delight In the new knitted bathing ault jeraeya. which cling trimly to tha figure. yet allow perfect freedom of the arma and ehoulilera. Tha Jersey la so knitted that It maintain Ita good linea and la easy to draw on and off. It Is accom panied by knitted trunks ami a wel rut little aklrt of mohair, a sailor col lar .of mohair and silk turning back over the knitted jersey to glre a femi nine touch of attractlveneas. This suit la In dark blua and white, tha cap being of blue silk dotted with wlitte. French and Kngllsh women do not make a practice of lying about on the aand in the sun. Vhen ttwe bath la over they repair Immediately to the bathhouse, the bathing suit discreet ly covered with an all-enveloping wrap which Is held by a maid during the bath. These- wraps are being taken up by American women for wear at public beaches and the drape hns another advantage It may be spread on the aand during the sunhath to keep the dainty silk bathing suit free from tha disfiguring wet sand. NO WOMAN IS TOO BEAUTIFUL TO NEGLECT TASTE IN DRESS Frequently Good Looks Are Concealed by Mistakes in Costumes High Stocks Have Done Much to Ruin Wom an's Charm Short, Tight Skirts Are a Danger to Faulty Figures. APMART dressmaker was turning a prospective customer round and rnund. the audience wondering; what she would do with so plain woman. Jler - complexion and soi era both a sort of bruised pink: danc ing feathera In several shades of tha ame unwholesome color sprouted fool ishly from hrr silly, too youthful hat though she was quite 29 Inches at tha waist and big In the hips to boot, her costume was skintight. She had reached the age fnr grahalr and reaaon. yet here she was poured like a sausage Into a costume whose style wss for It and whose color waa for nobody but Kebe. "let me see." ruminated the priestess of style. "You hsve fresh eye, splen did teeth; you are fairly tall; yoa must wear all black, black and white, and coats that veil tha line of your figure. Tou cannot wear flowers In vour rhapeau unleea they ara white and are maed rloaely to the hat. Graying hair" ue looked apologetic Iiere mut never be worn frlned with heavy features. Korty-two. you aayT Well. 1 aha!l make you look 3. If you leave It to me. 8he actually did It. Ah. If only other fairly good-looking women who make objects of themselves with bad taste In dress had omebody to examine their points and show them how to make the best of them Take the matter of middle age. and see tha things we must combat. Half or mora tf the figures once so slim have become atorky. too fat. or plteously lean. Com pletions have changed with them. changed to brick dust, copper tint lmon and clayey pallors; for tha bird of time always hath tta way with the rosea and lilies of youth. We. these ntddte-sged ones, of all women on earth, must compromise with fsshlon. M'a must consider our points abota all things, and every defective figure and Indtfrerent complexion must do the asms thing. ' In point of llne.ln drese. a Hgure that la the least bit too heavy or that ta not properly proportioned must have Ita faults concealed and not revealed. The looee. transparent coats now worn over thin, handsome gowns, with tbetr graceful kimono sleeves snd rounded, fronts, give all figures, whether fat or lean, a certain Jaunty youthfulneaa. Tha gowna underneath muat fit In to the f sure yet never be too tight. For f "ion-legged women. who waist length la too exaggerated for propor tion, the hlgh-waisted Empire atyles ara a boon: If the legs are too long and tha waist short a long coat only slight ly fitted 1 advUable. High tocka have done much to ruin woman s charm, and unless tha throat la of tha long, swan sort they should never be worn. Tha full columnar throat requires a straight, soft, trans parent stock, or els a flat collar or col larleea neck. To squeese tha big; healthy throat Into on of tha high bands with wing points going up Into tha ears Is to destroy all Its charm. Elderly women, for tha most part, need to wear these high stocks for the con cealment or the acragglnesa that cornea at the front of the throat; but If tha band I of a thick white material it add la more years to their sgea. On very young persona the high stock with side points Is a'o out of place, especial If tha girl la not old enough to pot up her hair. Then collarless , necks are once more to reign and they are epeciaily tha privilege of youthful person. Tha very short, tight skirts are an other danger to faulty figure. Unless tha woman Is well corseted, there Is a hideous bulge at the rear of the tight skirt where tha corset ends. If her feet ara large, they appear enormous under the edge of the skirt too short and too narrow to conceal them. 5-uch figures. If they will affect the scan jupes. should have over tunics, cut square bark and front, divided at the sides and allowed to hang loose. These straight panels straighten the figure bark and front, and help to lessen tne prominence of the feet, for evening. a faulty form Is best gowned In trained costume, for though trains are made In tha most absurd points, and the dress material at the front and sides hugs the ankles with awkward tightness, thla bit of a tall behind con tributes to grace. With hats and colore, the woman ot bad taste Is bound to sin most pro founlly. for the buying of headgear re- qutrea Inspiration or the best advice. and the color sense Is a gift from heaven. Just now two -awful thing are threatening hats In brilliant col ors and absurd shapes. Scarlet feath ers adorn wide black shapes: turb crowns are made up of flowers In party hues that stand on end: blues, greens, purple, red, yellows and every other crude color mark mammoth tur bans In coarse straws whose textures are unkindly to complexions and tha usual lines of features. A hat. reinem ber. muat follow the lines of the face and head; tha woman must not look as If she Is wearing a hat. bnt as If hrr headpiece were a part of her. Only the coloring and Unea of dainty youtii can stand the rough straw hats In vivid colors, the scarlet feathers, tha posies sprouting from the crown ol-.tke head and waving with every movement. Only the Juvenile and pretty head which go tth slim, buoyant figures, or course. ran caa triumphantly under tha shal low. mide-biimmed millinery which must be cocked slightly sidewtee. Kor the difficult head and figure. prayer and fasting are needed before the selection of a hat. and the gwn with which It Is to be worn must be considered, the complexion ar.d the ar rangement of the hair. An all black hat 1 aging to any but tha most youthful wearer, but If the complexion I very faulty the bit of color In It mut not be put too close to the fare. At the left back, turban In irregular line ehow lifts In dead white- -arlet. apple green or other col ors, these rorka!e made of ait Iff rib bon In many ways. A woman of .42 might wear a hat of this sort, but she had better choose tl.e white cock an e. as the black and white scheme Is suited to her yeara and It la smart, besides. nd goes with gowns In any color. Many complexions, especially those with pale brunette colorings, need a hat with a white brim facing, but this should never be In a hard whit satin or ailk. as theae facings are very try ing. A soft panama hat. with black velvet trimming put on In plain tail ored way requires good coloring, a smooth dressing of the hair and a look of health or youth. The big turbans with perfectly round ltnrs suggest the woman past 30. as the newest lines of such hats are un dulated. Tha helmet with narrow brima, tha Napoleon shapes, the Dutch bonnets with scoop fronts, and the cut-out rear for the accommodation of the chignon are for the young and pretty. The woman of average looks. neither young nor old. will nnd In a Neapolitan turban with undulated brim , change In the line aomem-here tha likelihood of a kindly headpiece. A high black algret. or one In bl k and wulte. placed ax tfce left back will give the hat a touch of becoming elegance. A single half-blown rosebud of the American beauty species, placed on the side front brim of a hat trlmned else where with black, will relieve a sallow complexion, iieautlfy It. In fact. If there are no splotches, for even the color of Ike bud will emphasize them. Flowers In a deep orange, or pure white, tone down a florid complexion, and for this face any black and white scheme Is very good unless the hair Is of the pepper and salt gray, when black and white Increases the look of age some time, though this Is not always so. The startling shades of red used for both gowns and hats require a clear, rather pale complexion or else one In whirh something of the same red 1 shown. Violet and dull blues are beau tiful against gray hair, and coppery shadra of red go superbly with red hair and the thin white skins that generally accompany It. With dun-colored h!r, blue or gray eyes and a so-so complexion, the softer shades of blue are sometimes very accommodating the blue called Alice, the Nattier shade, crow-blue. etc. Where the eyes are of the changeable sort their bluea deepen the color, and with thla deepening of the tint of the eyes the complexion commonly Is Improved. Where there Is too much color a blue hat or dress scheme Is excellent: where there Is too little It Is bad. unless the cheeks are llglitry touched with rouge. Freshly colored blondea or pale bru- HOW many housekeepers understand the gentle art of making coffee and tea to perfection? The majority Ignore the temperature and freshness of the water used, and not one out of ten realizes that the vessel used for drinks must be kept as clean as a new born rosebud. Cooking- a greasy mess In a saucepan one day and boiling tea or coffee water in It the next li crime. The cooking vessel used for any beverage must be kept for the purpose and none other. It must be scrubbed every day with a cleaning powder, scalded, aired, sunned. t The pot must aiso be made hot with scalding water and then wiped perfect ly dry with a fresh towel before tea or coffee is put In. Stopping the spout of both vessels with a small clean cork, or with the metal cap supplied, keep In the aroma while the drink Is brewing. The teapot should be covered with a wadded "coxy" while Ita delect able drink Is steeping, and. time must be kept for this by the clock. Good tea makers steep their tea about three minutes. Good coffee makers never let their nectar boll. The morning coffee doea not need to be as strong aa that served In small cups after dinner. But a little good. strong coffee, liberally diluted with hot milk, la more delicious and kindly on ttie stomach than the usual wishy- washy stuff some housekeepers pro fan with this sacred name. The taste exquisite, the odor divine, the exalta tion coffee drinkers love Ilea In the drip variety. Machines with glass bowls. in which the coffee can be aeen as it bubbles up and down, make this cof fee without too much thought on the part or the maker. They cost about dollar and a half, with the little alco hoi lamp that goes underneath. But such drip coffee is only second best. The most sophisticated and sure ves sel is a French earthenware coffee not. and this Is always placed in a pan of not water wnne the drink Is being made. The cofee bean Is Improved If It is slightly parched over after It come from the grocer with a nut of butter in the pan. Then It must be nowdered. for a coarse grinding does not bring out an tne extract. The water must be freshly drawn and used as soon as it doiis ror both coffee and tea. yulte excellent coffee can be made or cold water, and as soon as this DUDDies onoe the drink is ready. The usual grinding is correct for this, as the powder makes a muddy drink. Mix the dry coffee with a raw beaten esre-. snowing one taoiespoonrul heaping ir eacn person and one for the pot. "e cup oi water for each per- vuu uue iur tne urn. Refreshing; Drinks for the Rest Hour. Knmls Milk prepared In this way is boon to tired stomachs, serving the purpose of both refreshment and food. Ingredients are one ouart of fresh milk, one and a half tablespoonfuls of sugar, dne-fourth of a yeast cake, one tablespoonful of lukewarm water. Heat the milk to 75 degrees, using a cooking thermometer for the testing. Add sugar and yeast cake dissolved tne lukewarm water. Fill sterilized beer bottles to within one and a half Inches of the top. Cork these and shake them. Then place the bottles upside aown wnere tney can remain at a tcm perature of 70 degrees for 10 hours; men put mem In the Ice box. or In cold spring, and let them stand 48 hours more, shaking occasionally to prevent the cream from clogging at the top of Dotties. Kumiss Is also one of the best Invalid foods that can he given, being always advised In gastric troubles and with high fever. It Is sold In pint and half-pint bottles at an good drug stores. Iced Tea With Freak Mint Heat coffee cup In thickcrockery and put In one slack teaspoonful of good tea. Pour over boiling water and let the cup stand In a w a ran place for three or five mln tites. Remove, strain the tea and chill. Then sweeten slightly and pour It into a glass of crushed ice holding three bruised mint leaves. This is very reviving after a day's sewing or housekeeping, and a nibble of sponge or pound cake will go well with It. 11 1 j? ? s s 4! I II -Mi I -V : - m I 111; ' ' p I 1 f! - l - h i i H p i r j I ' Bassse-aBXaBaM . zrji'ry SCrST" -VE NEW YORK, May 20. (Special.) The bathing suit shown In the il lustration is often aeen at Trou- vtlle and other French watering places, though American women, who swim, do not favor such dressy water cos tumes. Elaborate bathing suits ac companied by hats are, however, much the fad at Narragansett, Atlantic City and other large fashionable resorts and it is safe to say that the bathing suit like the one pictured never goes Into the salty sea. This suit is made of pink satin trimmed with Venise lace; I the stockings are pink silk and the I wrap is of thin cashmere embroidered . oncollar and cuffs. Tiiough white bathing suits are not ! permitted on the large public beaches, they are often seen on private beaches ! at fashionable Summer colonies, and j the white bathing suit, if made qf suf i flciently substantial material, is quite as modest as the darker one and much prettier. One of these charming lit tle suits is built of heavy yet soft white satin, beneath it are satin knickers. The manner of lacing the skirt w ith white braid run through em- cA-V lrjJ5Vr Jroldered eyelets is particularly grace All. An arrangement of blue and white striped taffeta silk on a white silk suit Is exceedingly effective and gives the simple suit much smartness. The skirt is slashed up in four places and V-shaped sections of the stripings in serted. Sleeve and under-arm sections are of the striped silk, a shaped panel reaching up over this stripins at front and back and a pointed yoke of the striping being: stitched to the panel. The stockings in this case are white, with blue canvas bathing shoes. ENGLISH ETIQUETTE FOR WEEK" END PARTIES IS MOST PRECISE Guest Is Expected to Remember Time Limit of Visit and Not to Overstay Train Upon Which Visitors Are to Arrive Is Also Specified hy Hostess. DAINTY SILKEN BATHING CAP PROVING POPULAR Quaint Dutch Bonnet of Checked Rubberized Silk With Rosettes Over Ears and Kerchief of Colored Silk With Persian Border, Alluring. i? NEW iORK, May 10. (Special.) The woman who really dives in the wavea acorns a fancy bath ing cap and tugs a practical rub ber swimming rp down over fore head and ears, tying around the edge stout silk ribbon band. But bath ers who do not exercise energetically enough in the water to wet the front of the hair, wear the dainty silken cap. Two new models are herewith pic- - . ' A; : .TV - s , tured: one a quaint Dutch bonnet , cap of checked rubberized silk with ro settes over the ears; the other a ker chief of colored silk with a Persian border, the kerchief being in three cornered shape so that it may be easily adjusted. l'nder both of these caps goes -an ordinary rubber bathing cap wlitch protects the hair at the nape of the neck where the salt water always reaches even when the front of the coiffure is kept dry. strrE OWE our present interest in week-end .visiting to the Eng- " lish, who set the fashion for these short visits at country homes. Not uncommonly a smart hostess fol lows the English method to the letter, stating In the word to the- prospective guest that the invitation is for a long week end or a short one. The long week end Is from Friday until Tues day and the short one from Saturday until Monday, and It behooves the guest not to forget the time limit, as the welcome of fashionable folk end with the specified day. To stay over the Monday or Tuesday designated, then, would show a lack of under standing in matters polite on the part of the guest. Following . the English way, the American hostess also designates the very train on which the guest must come, and If she takes any other it is considered bad manners. The fact that in England a vehicle and two servants are always sent to meet a guest has established this last point, for if the hostess has to send people to meet another train this may be a serious Inconvenience. Where there is no ex pec tat ion of a conveyance, and the guest must go on foot or by trolley to the house. If she happens to know the way, there seems no great imperti nence In taking a different train from the one specified. In this country this is frequently done, though a proper excuse is expected at the end of the line for the disobedience. Persons who entertain a great deal. and always finish up a week at this season with some sort of a house party, are not expected to enlighten the guest as to the costumes that will be required during her stay. She supposed to travel In a suitable tailor suit and bring a change of bodices and an evening dress and driving coat; but all of these must be stored away in a handbag, as a week-end Invite does ' not allow enough time for the change of raiment a trunk involves. If the long week end Is to be celebrat ed very formally, however, -it would be polite of the hostess to suggest the fact in a few words, and state, too, that perhaps a small trunk would be handler than a bag. The bungalows of this country per mitting the simple life, it Is quite com mon for a hostess owning such a place to tell her guest that she will not need clothes. In the dressy sense of the word. We'll just rough It, you know go to the woods, gather apple blossoms and maybe take the trolley into North port." Such a phrase In a letter of In vitatlon for a week-end visit would be very helpful to a woman who could nut afford to bother with the clothes needed for social functions. The moment the invitation is re ceived the -guest answers, accepting or refusing with equal grace in the c: knowledgment of the honor done her! If she accepts, and there are to be other guests, the hostess who affects the English caper will not meet her at the train; neither does she show herself at the guest s room on her ar rival at the house. She sends word that there will be tea in the grounds at 4 o clock or dinner at 7, and at either of these functions greets the guest for the first time, introducing her at the same moment to such per sons as are strange to her. With the bungalow, or little country house in vitation, where this guest is to bo the sole outsider, the hostess could not possibly put on such frills. In fact, In all likelihood, she would go to the train and nsher the stranger herself Into her home, where, after giving ber some slight refreshment, she would at. native heath, it is incumbent upon her, once proceed to show off her pretty 1 in fact, to shut her eyes to small remiss- home. It is a difficult matter to be a good hostess, but It is far more to be a per fect guest. One hostess, who has oniy one servant or none at all maybe, may expect some little assistance with household matters; another situated in exactly the same manner, would resent even an offer of assistance in the least duty. So It is best for the guest to take the bearings of the place and act ac cordingly. With a person she knows fairly well she might say: "I'm rather useful about the house; call on me if you wish," or something to that effect. With the appearance of another visit or, somebody who drops in to meet the house guest, ft is not fitting for the lat ter to propose tea or any entertainment. She shows herself as very pleased to meet her friend's friends, but beyond doing the most gracious sort of talk, and getting up to meet her, and again rising wlieri she goes, she in no wise presumes on her own footing in the house. On the other hand, where the hostess gets up some little entertainment es pecially for the guest, and has only one servant or none, it is proper for the stranger to ask for a share in the man agement of things and to be ready to do any form of entertaining the hostess requires. If asked to do It. she must sing, read aloud, recite or tell stories or play cards. Only one thing would ex cuse her for not responding to any re quest made by the hostess, and that would be some indisposition or other; for the. hostess would not ask for a dis play of talents the guest did not pos sess. In a house where there are many servants, the hostess" sets aside several maids for the convenience of the ladies, they coming In to button dinner gowns and keep all the costumes of the guests in good shape. a The maids who take care of the chambers bring pitchers of drinking water at night and attend to any room service, but it is not correct for the guest to fee any of ,these do mestics without first asking the hostess if she approves. If permission Is grant ed, and there are two maids who look to the guest's comfort, a. dollar may be divided between them. A man servant who waits on the table, and does va rious small services for the stranger. would require a separate fee and doubt less a bigger one than that given to a maid. In the event of a large staff of servants, the guest would not even put her gowns away after wearing them, but where there are none she might be called upon even to keep her chamber In order. In the British Isles they omit one very pretty feature of all American visiting. Here the guest invariably takes the hostess some little gift or other, a box of candy, some trifle for her toilet, or hot-house fruit. In a home that Is run on medium means any fruit is accept able, while In a house far from markets a bunch of new asparagus, a pound of fine tomatoes or a basket of mushrooms might prove a godsend. But the prettlnesses of conduct are not confined to the guest. The hostess does any number of lit tle things to show her pleasure in the presence of her friend; she turns her into one or her daintiest Dearooms, made charming with a vase of flowers, and perhaps holding some specially cherished view from a window. She states the hours for meals and is her self punctual at them, and if she has any notion of her own comfort as well as her guest's she provides some enter taining reading matter ror the rest hour in the Bedroom or on the porch. She also gives the stranger to under stand that she may come and go about the grounds or woodlands as she pleases, outside of meal hours, and does not show by word or sign any of the tyrannies of the vulgar minded and sel fish householder. Since she is upon her nesses in the outsider, for, all things said and done, the greatest obligations at such times lie with the hostess. As a nation we are all beginning to crave country homes of some sort, so those provided with these luxuries should be generous to poorer friends and make it a point to share their blessings sometimes with persons tied by necessity to city lives. An invita tion to come out and see the apple blossoms, take a motor ride or walks in beautiful woodlands is something any city dweller will value at this sea son; and along with everything else there is the social importance guests give a country home. A girl of my acquaintance who bought a tiny farm on 920 a week has built up a gathering of very delightful friends in this way. Everybody who goes out to see her carries a useful gift of fine food in some shape, and everybody helps with the housekeeping and gardening. The house is an old stable turned into a species of bungalow, and the dining table and chairs have rustic legs. The invitation to share in this blessed taste of simple life is always unconventional and full of poetry. One sent me a month since read: "The hermit thrush is beginning his divine pipe, and seven fat robins are building in my apple trees. Come out Friday, four-fifty train. Meet you." Could a letter 10 pages long offer more than this? The song of the hermit thrush, apple trees, nests with blue eggs the sky, the blue air, the quiet of dawns and dusks! These things belong to the girl who has earned them with the sweat of her brow, and all , her social gifts shine more sweetly for the offer to share them with poorer persons. PRUDENCE STAXDISH. ' Cabbage Salad. Shred fine a new cabbage, the red cabbage is generally most crisp, and set where It is cool while you prepare a dressing as follows: Beat two eggs and place them in a double boiler, or in a kettle set in boiling water, with salt to taste, a saltspoon of dry mustard and a pinch of cayenne pepper; when these are well mixed add three tablesroon fuls of butter and half a cupful of vin egar, stirring constantly until cooked; take off, add a half cupful of cream and pour oer the cabbage. Lemon Dumplings. Half a pound of bread crumbs. Half a pound of finely chopped suet, a quar ter of a pound of dried flour, the rind and Juice of one lemon and two eggs. Mix all together well, form Into dump llnps. tie in cloths and boil two hours. Freckle-Face New Remedy That Removes Freckle or Coat Nothing;. Here's a chance. Miss Freckle-Face, to try a new remedy for freckles with the guarantee cf a reliable dealer that it will not cost you a penny unless it removes the freckles, while if it does ive you a clear complexion, the expense is trifling. Simply get an ounce of otnine doub:e strength from Woodard-CIarke & Co., and one night's treatment will show you how easy it Is to rid yourself forever of the homely freckles and get a beautiful com plexion. Rarely is more than one ounce needed for the worst case. Be sure to ask Wood a rd -Clarke A Co. or double strength otfaine as this is the only prescription sold under guarantee of money back if it fails to remove freckles.
