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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Oct. 9, 1910)
a s m sot-i-tti crvnlV AnrnrtYTlV PftPTT i'T1 Or'TOTtFTl O. 1910. . HOBBLE SKIRT DEMANDED Whether Wanted or Not, Society Mart Make Concession, to Prevailing Fad Skirt Made Narrower, Even if Actual Hobble Is Not r.IBT. writes me about clothe. . but i a I draws the line at the hobbl llS I , I 1 I i skirt. She will bare nothing An w'ffc If Th hnhhla vlt-f how can we i escape It. for fashion Willi that we look rnnit dnl Ilka tha narrow saint that nnc mAnrnA rathedral fronts? sees them still In Europe, shapeles Knnnrl nn in their etnbraclni draperies, yet somehow with an eter nal sweetness. That sort or saini w fashionable with the churches whe their artists carved the lines mat we to make them immortal. Our preae era petticoats well. In time, since rhuin with the fashions In clo l0V othes. we may indeed seem frights. Mean v. n. nnhn.ir ran look Just the pre Talllna; thing without some concession h niiinni of the hour. We hare Just got to take In our petticoat . the" make them seem somehow closer ai . . i. ih. t (in We are odd OOiioiu m a.. a-- - without this acceptance of foollshnes In some dejrrce or omcr, . - r ,.A ,n Ton wavward wit -th .Mistress Fwnion. see is a mm a. ml!tre. With some modish garments which I shall snow in pictures on Kla vrAwlnp .IpnillTIlPBl IS M pressed without too much eccentricity, and though the frocks are desTfcned for Indoor wear they are, likewise adapted to street use. The designs are admir able for home making, for they are all fairly simple. In Figure A Is revealed the close sktrtband which is the fancy of the hour, this .running up the front In a narrow apron and with the rest of the skirt fitted to the hips and gathered into the bottom band. Such a Jelly bag June may In three months be as out-of-late as the ark. but for the mo ment it is ardently admired by the young woman who is slim and has small feet and knows how to hop about In her constricted draperies. It Is separate from the bodice, which l made with a round yoke and three quarter sleeves. As pictured, the dress Is of quaker gray marquisette and It in trimmed with a molre poplin In the same shade. Any soft wool material, set off with a matching silk, would re alise the same effect, or the dress could be entirely of a single goods, though a contrast In color or texture gives the most modish look. Figure B gives a second effect much admired Just now. but the narrowness of the skirt Is redeemed by the look of ease the two killings give. Each Is pat on under a band that buttons over at the left side. This little trick, by the way. softens the hardness of such straight bands. The separate bodice Is fitted with a Gibson plait and has tucked side sections, the sleeves and these In one. A simple lace Is used about tha lutch neck and the belt and buttons re of black velvet. Here a striped veiling is employed black hairlines on a dead white ground but silk, cashmere, delaine, novelty, cotton voile and poplin are all equally adapted to the model. At a plncb. and with some modifications. It could even be made of gingham. In a smart tex ture the frock might be the best dress of a college girl or young married wo man. All that Is needed Is the slim figure to set It off big hips or the least touch of time on the face of the wearer would make It absurd. Figure C is essentially a gown for misses and small women alone, and its practical points may recommend It to persons who have not a great deal of money to spend. The skirt Is a nar row tucked model, trimmed at the bot tom with a moire silk band any watered goods is suitable and on the little tucked waist the same silk is used with neat effect In a novel yoke and prettv cuffs. A soutache braid outlines these trimmings and he high guimpe Is of lace. Now suppose a girl Is at school and needs a study frock in some dark, use ful material, without the perishable lace gulnipe here shown. In that event make the frock of a thin serge, with trimming of the same, except for the yoke, which might be of a matching silk. Missy's smarter frock might be of a figured silk trimmed with plain, or a rich blue or old rose cashmere could be set off with' trimmings of black. . ... . Figure D displays a bodice and skirt that I have given In detached form efore. so the present display Is mere- lv to express how such a dressy waist would set off the plainest skirt. The bodice is Indeed one of the most charm ing of the new waist effects, -and whether the style is chosen for a sep arate waist or for a gown It would srive the same look of elegance. It Is In the form of a tucked lumper, with kimono sleeves left open at the top I and threaded across with the trimming xised elsewhere, the lace of the under fcndy showing through. Marquisette In any color, or ordinary veiling, trimmed with black velvet, would be charming for this frovk. an.l If some trimming Is desired on the skirt there could be a narrow band of the bodice decking or a wide one simulating the hobble ef fect. If silk Is used this band could be kilted with the skirt, but tf velvet Is employed it would need to be put on In genuine hobble way that is. over the plaits, holding them dosa snugly and with the usual straight line around without a fold. hut whv talk of these narrow dresses without some mention of the things that make them feasible and et them off correctly? First and fore most, there are hips and busts, and these must be constricted as much a I ETIQUETTE OF HAPPINESS 'vrOri.D like to know If happiness I couldn't be included In etiquette. I told a girt friend I thought It was polite to be cheerful end that It helped folks along In every way.. ana sne iruk ed at me. I'm sure I'm right, but you know more about it." yes, even happiness, that glistening Joy which may be had by all for the seeking, hath Its place among the polite nesses: It Is almost the truest courtesy eme may cultivate, and the heart that knows It to the fullest will find invinci ble in all things. Just now. indeed, optimism Is among the smart cults, so the cheerful heart is. in a way. up to date. The world is tired of the gloomy places It wants the highlands with the fresh winds Mowing through the sweet pines and in every walk of life the cul tivation of the things of light and not those ft darkness Is the best prepara tion one can make for worldly success. And new since I have long wanted to talk on this subject pray let me tell story of a girl who "won out" with her little plans through this very dodge thla Joveua heart. Several ears seo a slim young girl came Into the big newspaper office tn which it wss my destiny to prepare a little matter for the woman's page that require Illustration. It was my busi ness, also, to look after these pictures. This in aMen with a confident look on her jara snsnun-d that she was compelled to do .-methlng for a living and had insde up her mind to furnish Illustrations to the paper. She bad samples of her 0y Vlttt her. and when she produced them I aw at once that they were crude V 1 . V. Ill m a Ir a thj ATOWnS i'Mciui, aaaa, inm uu able. The plump-as-a-partridge wom- .... . . .a,- aat all and I 111 U V .1 " a . at aaaaraaa - even the medium figures must look I to the Inexorable lines of good corsets noi to seem lompming i'i " these frocks. Any shop will show the right corset the one tnat comes iu ttl le chair when sitting down ana aa ilrable modifiers for the prominences t av.. a...a ... haa fftund In the little of ' I me aaat- ' M J " - . a . i n 14 Lr fa wnlfttS and BUplUllB niaav. a... have a cunning bins of tucking at the front: for the fronts of these cross and the figure may be held down as tightly as is liked. Wide rubber bands are also sometimes worn about the hips when they seem too redundant and. as i nae Id before, there must not De a gainer o manv in me petucuau Even "millinery must accord with lese slim lines, for if there is a flat it with spreading brim It will top ne of the snug dresses ridiculously, lough the tenth may sail by In trl- In design and of poor workmanship, snd I told her that she would have to look i further, fcven as i ." "-- softened toward her and I sighed. hat was there aoout inis gin m inc ....a. blue frock that appealed to me so un-, mistaikably? a,-l a . I. . aKaa hd SCSrCely ' passed out of the door before I hod in tercepted her ana inv.iea aw -- for further consideration of the matter. When I told her that she would be given a trial she fairly beamed. There was no sign of self distrust on her smiling countenance: she simply accepted it all as her Just and proper right, sure of tier mission, sure of herself. She had made up her mind to make illustrations for a newspaper and she accomplished her pur pose she did make those pictures for a newspaper mine at that! That girl simply smiled her way into success. Every member of the staff of that great paper took a friendly interest in her. and in time her funny little scrawls expanded Into really' meritorious drawings. Her Improvement wss due largely to the encouragement she re ceived from all quarters and that serene and confident smile never left her face for a moment. ' She was a veritable ray of sunshine In that gloomy old office. I tried to make a study of her and pene trate her secret. One day she told me all about It. When she was 10 years of age. she said, she made up her mind to be happy every moment of her life, no matter where she landed or what happened to her. Poverty and friend lessnese would mean nothing, for she would have mil lions and adoring courts at her com mand right there, under her ltttle dress body. Misfortune came to try her. Did iitrAivn ..a .iiu" at. - a. i a , fatrttf r.nnn- I FIGURE A. - ,,,.1T---- ........... ... -- - - ' BY FASHION Petticoats Mart Be Taken in and Employed. nmph by reason of the wearer's youth and charm. The correct headpiece is a swathing tnrban or an Inverted bas ket, edged with a line of white under Its brim shirtings or frills- Such head gear Is odd. too. therefore it goes with the frocks. All the lines must be up and down In effect, even though we are crossed with surcingles at the knees and surplice our bodies with the wrapping folds now seen with other waint effects. Klnallv, true snug gowns and basket hats and Turkish turbans may be on the wing, but it will take three months longer to dispossess them, and woman must keep her lamp of smartness light ed. So if there Is any worry about their going out of style, make up the dear things In cheap materials, so that the parting won't be so bitter. Even the hats can be turned out at -home very Inexpensively, for with their flatness and shlrrlrigs and folds tlTey all have a home-made look. Keep pace with fashion be a narrow snlnt If you can. MART DEAN. it make any difference in her? Not a bit. She went on with her funny plc turea. and all the other newspaper of fices saw the one In her heart, and snl arles got bigger, and her own little bach elor home became a bourne for the heartsick and weary. Tou couldn't show her the least cloud but she would point out the silver lining. Her heart loved life so dearly that life loved her. and she shared her goodllness with every body that came along. Now, of course, it is difficult to say all at once. "I shall be happy." for the training that brings this wise state of heart must be a gradual thing. But If with each trifling, accident one only tried to be a little saner than last time a more reasonable state of mind is bound to come, and, with only a single conquest a day over the rainy mood, heart and mind begin to look toward blithe things as necessary. So It seems to me a good idea to have a happiness hour every day, 60 minutes of sitting In a chair with sewing, or a book, or the hands Idle, with the door open for the angela to epter. Every conscious thought must be laden with the cheery Idea, with the silver lining, with ths feeling that life Is right and good In all Its phases. Try it for awhile at home or In the open and see how much you Improve as a daughter, wife, mother, friend or business woman. In the domestic and social circle, above all. Is the cheerfnl heart most necessary. Very often a grumpy busi ness person will be endured for worth iness of character In the ways essentia', or for some specially useful gift, but at home, with one's friends, think how darkly grumbling moods tell against us: the teeth of home life are set on edge, the family sinner seems more of a monster than she had meant to be, and after a few breaks with friendship you get the Icy eye there. From the purely social viewpoint the visits at houses that give functions, dinner par ties, lunches, receptions and such fes tivities nobody wants to cultivate the woman who looks as it Joy had given her the grand snub. She is too shabby for good society, for everybody wants the other thing, the heart that Is clothed in the pearl necklaces and silk en gowna of contentment, peace, love, charity and all the other graces; for this goodly bundle of virtues all ocs with the happy heart. Assuredly life Is not all easy sailing, but things are a good deal as you look at them, and there is no happening that cannot be worse. So why not choose to abide with the pleasant thought, for It Is deilclously hypnotic, and when one has got the taste for It. It is impossible to go back to the old ways of thinking. It is like the drink and smoking habit once you fall a, victim you've got to go on. Surely the subject would not be com pleted without some mention of the ef fects blithe thinking has on the health and looks, and though this Is scarcely my department I will touch upon it. The A Chapter for the Marrying Girl AM 34 years old, and though I haven't any steady company I want to marry and have a home and family. Please tell me how I can make myself attractive and impress some nice man that I am the marrying sort without being too bold and silly. My character is rather substantial, and I am not bad looking, yet I have never had a real rerlous beau." My correspondent has the right point of view concerning life, for love, a home and ohildren are the needs of every nor mal woman. Therefore thla letter seems to me to have a backing of the utmost good sense, and if more women with this natural bent for domesticity were made wise in time there certainly would not be so many spinsters ana Dacneiors in uw world. As) to the young lady's wish to appear the marrying sort to the eligible men, there is nothing unwomanly In it to the sensible mind, though, very natural ly, the situation calls for the utmost deli cacy of conduct. There may be no giving In aaaaaaloaraa In Wvan Ottt AS long B8 the world stands Jacks will choose their Jills, and It sometimes neips ine touiw of true love along for the lady to give some sign to the gentleman that he is acceptable. Let me Degm my nine tais. wnn uu last liite quoted from this young woman's letter"! have never had a serious beau.' " There, doubtless, has been her great mistake, for the marrying man does not pick as a partner the flower that welcomes a million ouiieriues. mi, m thla phrase suggests a good deal of dally ing with the wrong sort of man, let me iv at once that this is mistake number one for the marrying girl. The young woman wno warns to marry, n. "" a beauty or gifted in some other special at faaa no 1t IflllAr AS tO her TCI file acquaintance; she cannot accept the phil andering or TOm, JJ1CK ana niirri n wants the right man to consider her as a mla,i1kn nf his haDDlneSS. Again, It la not improbable that the stamp of man who happened to be in this young lady's environment was too light and frothy for the substantial foun dation' of her cnaracter, ana n mm the case she may count herself lucky in l I , Ttlaanctnar him. MarrlSgO 11 n V 1 11 ft m.aaa " Is an honorable estate, and it may be made the most Deauuiui ming ... n. world: but temperament and tames must v. Mnui ... hnntn to abide with UO OTliatmm aw. 1" 1 the tie. Still agaiik it is possible for the . . i.i. . 1. n tr Kaaaa tn fteem tOO girl W1U1 alia HUMtjii.B - eager, in which case, if the man himself i . a,.-airnaari tn the matrimonial thought, he is bound to flee, for the mutual attraction tnat suggests nibiiis is not a thing to be forced rudely. So much for the possible mistakes a marrying girl who is still a maid at 24 Is likely to make. And now for generall tie. nn the other side the things that attract the marriswig man. First and rorcmost among mo qawi"" a. 1 .l,aarf tm thai nne Filled WOmiUlly. 1U LT UCOlllu " - that gentle, sincere femininity that speaks more loudly of the home life than all the speech on earth. The marrying man may be attracted tor a long uine uj 11 and Dare of up-to-date charmers, but when he takes unto himself a wife he is pretty apt to look up one among the other girls, the girls to whom dress and i aoiviminrv And not all. the uimauic aav ... . .- , maids who, so to speak, look as if they will know now xo n" onDclu'" cakes and plea of married life. These dear' bodies, even though they keep pace with smart life and dress modlshly and so on, are, above all wo men, sweethearts, wives and mothers. Nature hasn't made any mistaae in them, and If man naen t me sometimes, and permits one here and there to reach old maidenhood, the ma jority win out. Wherefore, all the substantial gifts that usually go with types are to be de sired, and if they are warmly cultivated It is possible for any girl to possees this womanly charm. It does not go with fickleness of any sort, with too much prodigality In the way of wasting Its sweetness on any and everybody; nor does It depend upon flaehy clothes or money extravagance of any kind. It ia , .... I . aadnllfl lTifltter-Of-f aCt cneenui n J " - " ' , and yet romantic; and. though all sorts of foolish, fluffy dolls may get the prizes they strive hard enough to win, such natural flesh and blood, wholesome and sincere women are the onee that get the blue ribbon In life's race. Tea. even though they must weep sometimes. To have a comfortable, tasteful home is 'the next best bait for landing the matrimonial chance that's worth while, for all worthy men wish to know women in their own homes, and since man is by nature more orderly and . luxurious than woman he wants to see that home In shipshape. So if you put him In the best chair and have the dinner good, and mother or .father tells Mm afterward that he can smoke, he Is pretty apt to come to the point more quickly than If he met you only at other homes, or about town, and had no chance to see what a solid person you are. Selfish, you say, and I am willing to admit it, but then man learned to eat and sit 10 comfortable . , Kaafnraa hat Wmfll tO lOVe, cnairs ivub ' " - and think of what all we women are working for-the fulfillment or lire. What's the use oi opauns bush? We've Just got to learn the busi ness of pleasing our man before we get hWe must make ourselves so attractive in the ways that count first with him .hiM nf the resoonslbllity of the wedding ring and clothes the sug gestion, when it comes, in a heavenly light. ... These two thlngsa quiet, natural, sin cere woman quality and a taste for the things that make the machinery of life go smoothly seem to me the fundamental requirements for desirability In the eyes of the man worth marrying, and. though one might write reams more on the sub ject since most of the good marriages are the result of a blending of substan tia! traits I will stop here. For the rest, the girl who asks a man to her ' home and there, aided by her family, gives him of the best, while con ducting herself in a gentle, gracious and perfectly womanly manner, is showing that she is In the market and showing It in the right way. Finally, let me say another word, this time concerning matrimony in the ab stract. The question Ehall I be wed like other maids, Or Un my life alonsT depends largely on propinquity, happen ing to be on the spot when the marry ing man Is wandering around with his loneliness. But of course destiny, too, has a finger in the wedding pie, and so. all Joking aside, after a reasonable pe riod of expectation, why go on yearning and fretting for the thing that is not cheerful heart helps to keep the diges tion In good woraing oraer, mo biw..-. one poisons the gastric Juices an.l taints the blood. As for looks, the cry-lng-over-spilled-mllk habit is worse than the smallpox. Nature knows what she wants. Tou can't plant weeds In her dooryard and expect them to bear American Beauties. So since so much depends upon a wholesome point of view, I beg all my girl readers to try and think as does the dear and sensible maid who writes me that it Is right to Include happi ness among the etiquettes. Let the carkers laugh, but stick to the idea that it Is polite to be cheerful, see the bright side of things, and that this helps one along In every way. The high, er feeling follows on the heels of thM common sense the uplift that is b? yond the reach of tears and that stays uplifted. One has only to work for it. So go on the still hunt for the darling thing and be sure that you are "right." Make happiness one of the courtesies the thing you owe your own heart and all the other hearts. PRUDENCE STANDISH. to be? The unmarried woman oan find plenty of things to do that will fill her life with interest and quiet peace, and it Is far better to be a useful spinster than to become a wife only through tricks and wiles even though they are. In a way, legitimate. So' while doing your best to seem fair and goodly in the eyes of the "nice" man don't go too far lest you appear FIGURE B. Indelicate, and If spinsterhood seems in evitable accept the gift and make the best of it. The world holds many un married heroines, and if we could look behind all the doors I am sure there would be countless wives who felt their lives poor and have reason to besides the lives of these. Remember, too, that love is a delicate flower, and if forced to bloom untimely it cannot thrive long. Accept and cultivate the thing that presents itself If It seems desira ble, but If you hope to be happy don't take any chance simply because you feel yourself to be a marrying girl. Beverages for Receptions IX IS CUaiUniHtJ at. ICvCfllUllo aa.a-aa .u newly married couples to offer punches of various sorts, and though these are most often made of spirits of some kind they may also be of fruits, tea and lemon and a touch of rum, or be made with fruit syrups. Hot choco late, topped with a froth of stiffly whip ped cream, is one of the temperance drinks highly successful, and each and every drink, .however, simple it may be, Is much enhanced by being served gracefully. The. chocolate looks best In a sliver urn set on a silver tray, with a silver service for cream rand sugar and wide cups of very thin china with one or two handles. The spoons used are of the long-handled sort employed for cream soda. The punches and tod dies, whatever their sort, look best in the low punch glasses with a single handle species of small cups thess being filled from a great punch bowl of glass. Bilver or china- If there are only buffet refreshments, a fine punch bowl makes a handsome appear ance on a well arranged sideboard. The following recipes for these necessary beverages may be relied on: s HOT APPLE TO DDT Thoroughly roast a dozen large. Juicy apples; wine saps and pippins are excellent for the purpose. Scrape the pulp and Juice free of seeds and cores and mix in a bowl with one pound of pulverized sugar. Stir thoroughly, adding afterward on quart of good whisky and half a pint of Ja maica rum. This mixture, as it stands is called the "pug," and it may be kept for a long time, but all the mixing must be followed by good stirring. When ready to serve., put the pug in a punch bowl and pour on boiling water to taste; or else add one-third or one- . ... i n-.tnr tn tha miar after It 1 11 It 1 111 aiva. ' J has been put undiluted in the little glasses. Too much water will spoil this delicious punch, and to have the right effect it must be served with bouillon spoons. - CLARET PUNCH One quart of good claret, one pint of sherry table sort one-half dozen lemons, 10 oranges, one fresh pineapple, or a quart can of the fruit, one-half pint of whisky and the same of champagne. This may be served frozen, but the wines and spirits are best put In after the chilling. CLARET CUP Three quarts of good claret, three bottles of soda water, six lemons thinly sliced, one cup of pulver ized sugar; pour the sugar over tha lemon slices and let the Juice draw; then add the claret and soda water and Just before serving put in a big piece of Ice. RUSSIAN TEA PUNCH One-half rallon of strong tea and the grated rind of one lemon; mix these and let stand a few minutes and then strain. Afld one pound of loaf sugar and equal parts of rum, apple brandy or claret T HZ liiiiiiNiiiiP 'M 111 IU I 1l i , , I : l l l l III IS liilllB Vicomtesse W ears beautiful dinner gown by Jenny & Cie. No gown has been more admired than Lady Maitland's, among the new models in the exquisite collection of Jenny & Cie., a Paris house which has promptly taken its place in the first rank. The novel' tunic is of white tulle embroidered in gold. Robe of white Liberty satin confined low at back with sash of pale green satin embroidered. Regal lace of point Venise. Styles for the coming-season demand an elegant figure and aristocratic carriage. Both can be cultivated. A faulty gown can be discarded. But a faulty corset quickly makes a faulty figure, which cannot be cor rected for months or 'even years. That is why fastidious women now pay more attention to corsets than to dresses. Why not insure your figure ? CB a la Spirite Cor sets will do this for you. There is a CB model for every type of figure. All have style, comfort and money value. For sale at all leading retailers'. , Prices $i to $ i o. Weekly" style cables from CB Fashion Bureau in Pari are at least 6o days ahead of everything else. Extracts will appear in this same space every Sunday. -These cables are published in full on the first of each month in a free booklet entitled "CB Sole Cables." Ask for it at any corset counter or write for it. Strouse, Adler Sc Co., 45 East 17th St., New York. , la spivite corset Ik H 1 3 ESE3 I according to taste. Serve ice cold with a thin slice of lemon on top of each glass. - To Renovate Ribbons. A girl who will "take a little time every few days to renovate her wearing apparel, keeping it fresh, will find her efforts more than repaid by a look of added daintiness. Almost All ribbons can be washed, for example, coming back to a state of pristine freshness; only one must know how to do the work. Any wrinkles that are put in during washing will not come out. Therefore the ribbon should be laid flat on the washstand' or other hard surface and wet with warm, not hot, water. Then the silk la rubbed with any good white minimi ' n i i : :!!!!i!l!ilil!iD!llii KIM l i t ' I III 'III ! I ' M nil i Special Cable i from Paris Maitland i r i r -I soap, drawing the length along as re quired, always keeping it flat. Fresh water Is then patted on, rubbing gently but thoroughly with the finger tips. When this has been done' till all spots have been removed, the length is held under the warm water faucet and per fectly rinsed. ' To dry, it is to be patted down, abso lutely without a wrinkle, on a hard sur face, such as a window glass or the top of a marble washstand. More time is taken to dry, but the ribbon will be better. When It is only slightly damp, not the least bit moist, it is pulled off carefully and placed on the Ironing ta. ble to be rubbed over with a. warm, but not hot, flatiron. If the silk Is too wet or the iron over hot, the ribbon will be both stilt and polished looking, which means it is ruined. Sal iiiilmhjui.ih ""uwtfl3rP'ST I