The Sunday Oregonian., August 21, 1910, SECTION FIVE, Page 6, Image 55

1910.
ARRIVALS IN PORTLAND; THE HOBBLE
GARTER AND OTHER NOVELTIES
QREGOXIAN. PORTLAND,
AUGUST 21,
i mum J wsm-imus 0Samme Sex 1
I FIOtRS A.
Novel Ways of
B -!--T CHICKEN MOLD This U
an excellent hot weather dish and
one which would be found most
useful for a busy day. Select a frlcaaaa
fowl and have the butcher leave the
neck long and cut the nails from the
feet. Skin these by soaking them a few
mlnutea In hot water; dismember the
rest of the fowl, and boll all together
until the flesh Is tender enough to
pick to pieces with the fingers. Dur
ing the boiling, season the chicken
with one large Bermuda onKin. aeveral
talks of celery, parsley, cayenne and
eolt. When done and cool enough te
handle, pick ail the flesh from the
bones. -feet. neck. eta. and discard the
kin. Chop finely to almost a pasta
and pack In a mold, pouring on some of
the boll-water between each layer of
chicken. Cover tightly and set on the
toe- Turn on a cold dish and serve with
at trimming of canned pimentos. Only
water enough to cover the chicken
must be used for the tolling or the
mold will not harden. The boil-water
bust be rich enough to form a Jelly.
BROILED COLD CHICKEN Here Is
good way to vary the monotony of
cold fowl, whether boiled or roasted:
Take the half or quarter which haa not
been cut Into and rub It over with a
marinade of two tablespoonfnls of vine
gar and one of lemon Juice Put the
fowl between two platea and set aalde
for three hour. Then rub the oil and
lemon Juice well Into It. dip In egg and
then In fine toasted crumbs: set on the
Ire for an hour, and broil over a me-
elun hot fire, turning often. Make a
I gravy of melted butter with chopped
j parsley and a few drops of lemon Juice
' and poor over the dish.
stCAUiOrED CHICKEN Mix twa j
Serving Chicken
cupfuls of nicely seasoned chickens,
minced finely, with a cupful of boiling
oyster liquor, or as much tomato Juice.
Stir in six chopped mushrooms, the
pounded yolks of two hard boiled eggs
and two tables poonfuls of cream. Add
finely toasted bread crumbs and more
cream If needed to make a soft paste.
Pack In large clam shells, or In a bak
ing dish, put nuts of butter on top
and cook covered for IS minutes; then
uncover and brown lightly. Cold lamb,
duck or boiled veal may be prepared
In the same way. with the substltutioa
of a good stock for the oyster jar to
mato juice.
CHICKEN CROQUETTES Stir a cup
ful of minced cold chicken and the same
quantity of sweetbreads together; these
last boiled and blanched and also finely
minced.' Add drawn butter, or a little
chicken stock thickened lightly with
flour. Heat In a vessel sat In another
containing boiling water, and when
heated through take from the fir and
add a cupful of cream (with a pinch of
soda stirred In) and the beaten yolks
of two eggs. Mix well, set In a cold
place until solid: then mold into round
or oblong . croquettes. Dip these In
beaten egg. then In crumbs and fry a
rich brown in boiling cottonseed oil or
lard.
To remove iron mould from marble rub
the marble with a cut lemon dipped In
common salt. If this1 doaa not remove
the stain, try rubbing It with spirits of
ammonia, which 1 often successful when
other treatments fall. In either case ft
la wall to afterwards rlnsa the spot and
polish It with a soft doth.
To vend a torn umbrella stlrk black
court plaster Inside the tear. This will
how leas than a darn and will last for
soma Uo
JUST arrived the bobble carter; Per
haps yon haven't aeen It ret. but it
made Its appearance in the middle
of the week, at the neckwear and acces
sory counter of one of the Portland de
partment stores. It wa or they were
displayed on a trim pair of waxen limbs,
on the class case. Made of roblna'-egg
blue ribbon shirred over elastio bands of
the same tint, the garter part of the nov
elty was nothing new. except that the
round carter has of recent years become
almost an extinct species. But the
startling feature was the 18-tnch connect
ing strap of elastic, covered daintily with
the shirred blue ribbon, to either end of
which a garter was Army affixed! The
object of the hobble carter, frankly set
forth In the advertisement which the
firm inserted in the daily press, was "to
regulate your gait." What painful thing
might happen in case the hobble skirt
and hobble-gartered maiden should take
too long and too vigorous .a stride Is
dreadful to contemplate. The stinging
capacity of even a small rubber band,
when It breaks and snaps back against
the finger or face. Is only too well known.
.
The Portland Jewelry shops are show
ing a number of interesting tilings which
are civlnc feminine shoppers pause as
they pass by the display windows. X
Washington-street Jeweler is displaying
some exquisitely dainty Fall novelties in
ornamental hairpins, among them being
a set of the daintiest possible hairpins
of crinkled gold wire, fashioned muoh
like the common wire hairpin, but with
a row of tiny pearls set In the bend at
the head of the pin. With these are dis
played some attractive horn hairpins, of
the square-topped sort, but the tops are
metallized and set with pretty stones.
Another smart novelty shown la a large
handbag of silver mesh whlf-h shows gold
stripes running through, not distinctly,
but in the shadow effect. A variety of
the new enameled hatpins with huge
heads adds to the interest of the win
dow. Apropos of the handbag of woven sil
ver, an interesting letter has been re
ceived by the woman's department from
a matinee maid who had Just been the
recipient of a pretty bag of silver mesh,
and who knew no better than to hold It
m her pearl gray chiffon-broadcloth lap
during the play. After the final cur
tain call, when the lights were turned
up, she discovered, to her dismay, that
the bag had left a dark and ugly tarnish
on the front of her gown. When she
reached home. Just by way of experiment,
she dusted a thick coating of talcum
powder over the spot. let It remain a
few minutes and then brushed It out.
To her delight all the tamtBh had van
ished when she had hrushed out the
powder.
"I could not have spared the dress
that week." she writes, "and the ruin
ous fee of a dry-cleaner would have been
a tragedy to my depleted allowance. I
am not sure the talcum would be effec
tive after the tarnish had been rubbed
In, but it worked beautifully for me.
Please tell others about It. and also tell
them that when they use gasoline for
cleaning to add first a pinch of salt to
the gasoline, to prevent the rings that
It otherwise leaves."
e
Some very dainty little Fall frocks are
Just now making their appearance, worn
with charming effect by the young girls
who are getting togneher their ward
robes far the Fall terms of finishing
schools and universities. One of the fa
vorite materials and well suited to the
negative temperature of Fall, is the soft,
graceful all-wool chullio. which comes In
so .many pretty patterns and delicate
color tones. An always smartly dressed ,
Portland girl, who will be off in a few
weeks for one of the fashionable schools '
on the Hudson, wore at a matinee an
attractive little frock of challle. having j
a white ground sprinkled with rings and j
polka dots of delicate coral, and with
bands of coral silk producing the effect j
of a tunic arapery over tne ratner piajn t
.Ll.. XLhllA th. alrlT-t -ran narrow, it I
SMART DESIGNS FOR MAKING OVER
GOWNS SET FORTH ON THIS PAGE
The woman who wishes to keep up
a smart appearance must be Interested
eternally in dressmaking: affairs
whether she makes her own frowns or
not- This Is because freshness Is the
first quality that la considered by
fashion, and so If there Is no new gar
ment on hand there Is always an old
one which can be Improved with some
change or other and little freshening
touches. Just now Madame la Mode Is
giving us a series of skimp skirts and
patchy little bodices which lend them
selves admirably as models for making
over last Summer's frocks or for re
juvenating those of the present season
which have become shabby from use
There Is an astounding mixture of ma
terials, which Is a point for making
over even a rather scant dress; so with
the wide skirt bands used, the tunics
with bibs, the pretty collars and cuffs,
all of which may be in a different color
and texture from the frock Itself, al
most any frock may be picked to pieces
for remaking. 'When It Is only a mat
ter of changing the style of a dress,
the models of the moment would cut
over last Summer's frocks and leave
a surplus, so much wider were skirts,
sleeves and everything else then than
now. In fact the very narrowest of the
Empire styles offers chances for re
modeling, for since skirts are so scant
and the belt line still abore the normal
these short walsted frocks may be used
as foundations for the prettiest tunle
effects.
When contemplating a change of
style in a dress, the sewer must first
pick her old gown to pieces, brush It
free of threads and dust, and clean and
press the breadths that are to be
changed. A black goods, either wool
or soft silk, will respond well to a
good wash with soap bark, which la
an inexpensive cleanser to be found in
any drugstore. Silks and wools still
good enough to use when faded may be
dipped In a dye of the same color, or
have the tint entirely changed, and
where the dress goods is not good
enough for the outside there Is always
the possibility . of using It for a
foundation for a thinner material. One
mistake the inexperienced sewer la
likely to make when remodeling an oTB
garment 'Is to use a new material In a
color so bright or delicate as to show
off more plainly the faded or other
wise used appearance of the old stuff.
So whenever possible. It is best to com
bine old with old. that Is. put two
frocks together, or else make use of
trimmings that have been employed
before If this Is not done have the
new stuff black or In some color too
deep for the contrast with the gold
goods to be too striking. In choosing
was not extremely so. reflecting the
more generous breadths of the Fall
styles. The bodice was made with a
yoke of tucked net, and trimmed with
bands of the coral-toned silk, the elbow
sleeves being trimmed with plaltlngs of
the silk. With this modish frock was
worn a simple hat of fine straw, orna
mented with flaring bows of black velvet,
the only touch of the coral tone being
the huge enameled heads of the two hat
pins thrust through from the left side.
Some pretty Autumn plaids are also in
evidence; this season's offerings In the
plaids are refreshingly lacking in the
rather garish effects with which we have
been familiar. Ivendar- and white,
heliotrope and white, dark blue and
black, and such dainty combinations are
being shown as the modish patterns for
the Autumn.
An unusually pretty "trotting" frock
was seen on Washington street the other
day. It was of heliotrope and whtte In a
small plaid pattern, with bandings of
heliotrope and whits silk, and was cut
somewhat after the "co-ed" style of last
season; the plaited fullness at the bot
tom, however, was much more scant, and
at the front there was a broad boxplalt
effect, so that the knife plaits falling
towards the back did not start until
well around towards each side. The box
plait effect was repeated at the back, the
two flat panels giving the modish nar
row or hobble appearance.
By the way, since the hobble skirt
has arrived, and Is being accepted as
a matter of fact In Portland, there has
been a great ripping' and slashing of
old linen skirts and one-piece frocks.
The plain gored skirt or Bimple one
piece frock is easily converted into the
narrowed-in. hobble style by the mere
taking In of the seams of the skirt
from a point a little above the knees,
down to the bottom. The change should
be made in the rear gores principally.
The erase for purple, which has been
raging for some weeks past "on the
other side," is beginning to make itself
felt In Portland. Through the usual
medium of the stage and Eastern tour
ists, the new color began to manifest
Itself some time ago, and now the of
ferings In the stores are taking on the
royal hue. The purple note is also
strong in the gowns and suits' under
way at the leading modistes and wo
men's tailoring establishments. This
warm "queen of colors and color of
queens" Is heralded as one of the fea
tures of the Autumn styles, running
from the deepest pansy shades through
the rich plum and wistaria tones, and
to the palest effects bordering on the
lilac. The lilac tones, emphasised by
the deeper shades, are figuring In some
of the smartest Fall modls. the richer
purples being used for lapels, cuffs,
patch-pockets, etc. With the suits or
gowns of the darker shades, contrast
ing tones, such aa cream and corn color,
give relief to the effect.
On the lingerie blouses and frocks,
the frills and embroideries show edg
lncs or dots of the various tones, deep
violet being one of the favorite hues
for this dainty decorativeneas. A quite
new purple note is the reversible silk
tic. for wear with the smart patent
leather low boot; these are purple on
one side, and of a cantrasting tone on
the other, to that when the bow is tied,
both colors show in the knot.
Incidentally, by the way of comment
upon masculine concessions to Dame
Fabhlon. note. If you please, the num
ber of ties and lisle socks In the ney
tones worn by me oiner exi
seems to be the favorite shade.
How long will the French sleeve last
This Is a question that Is Just now per
plexing us all. Pome of the very sheer
est and daintiest of shirt-waist and
lingerie blouse offerings In the Port
land stores have this pretty but some
what eccentric sleeve, and at the shirt
waist counters one continually hears
doubtful comments, ss some shopper
succumbs to the appeal of the lace and
daintiness. Unless litted Just right.
laces for remodeling, cream is better
than pure white, and" this will blend
still more softly with the old material
If It Is strung with narrow black vel
vet. Indeed, black bebe velvet Is the
most dainty ornamentation the maJter-
PIGUKS C
however, so that the Is abundant full
ness without bagglness, the . French
sleeve Is anything but the graceful and
pretty thing it can be. and for this
reason one should choose very care
fully. The advance notes in the fash
ion magazines say that the French
sleeve will remain "good" throughout
the Autumn and Winter.
White kid gloves, stitched down the
back in purple, or even bearing broad
bands of this tone, are making their
appearance in the local stores, and
among the past week's displays have
been noted kerchiefs edged or em
broidered In purple or violet, and a
number of dainty frills and furbelows
In the accessory line also have the
pretty decorative touch of violet
squares, gleur de lis, daleies or dots.
Anent the ever-changing handbag,
the very newest affairs are of suede,
velvet or patent leather, and from six
to ten Inches square. The purple or
violet tones are In the ascendancy, and
some of the most attractive bags are
of black or dark tones, with the mono
gram or Initial stamped in the modish
purple, wistaria or violet.
The "stovepipe" turban is with us.
It is appearing upon the streets in a
hundred different shapes and color
combinations, and seems to be Invaria
bly becoming. As a change from the
rather tiresome Hindu turbans, the
"stovepipe" or "hug-the-head" turbans
are refreshing, but they still leave
with us the problem of how to dress
the hair becomingly and keep it so
under the close-fltting hat. To be sure,
a stunning coiffure effect can be sim
ply attained by merely leaving a loose
and fluffy fringe to peep from under
neath the down-turned brim, but sup
pose one must remove the turbanl Too
often the charm entirely disappears,
even from a coiffure most carefully
built, for the turbans are heavy and
tend to crush the hair and rob it of its
fluifiness by confining It so closely to
the head. There Is really no room for
braids and "rats" under the new tur
ban, and so the hair must be dressed
rather simply, with the elaboration all
at the back, and In front edge. Chig
nons of curls and fluffy little puffs can
still be worn at the back, and if one
shampoos the rest of the hair fre
quently It can be kept fluffy enough to
h hnuffant without support of "rats."
the merest little pad. doing effective
dutr-
That the bow Is to be one of the
main features of the new Autumn hats
Is now an assured fact. To be sure,
feathers, wings and plumes will al&o
figure prominently In the smart models,
but the huge velvet bow will be he
chief trimming of a certain type, of
modish hat, and this matter of a bow,
be it understood, can be quite as ex
pensive as some of the more preten
tious and elaborate garnishments.
Some of the berlbboned oreations will
run as high as 25, and when one takes
into account the yards and yards of
heavy brocade or of chiffon velvet used
In the huge bows, this does not seem
so absurd. The Persian fabrics of all
kinds are to remain popular, and these
will be employed In the big bows ex
tensively. Huse picture hats, covered
with velvet, and laden heavily with
plumes, will be another type of fash
ionable hat, according to the leading
Portland milliners, and velvet In all
forms will be particularly modish.
The extremely simp:e shepherdess
shape, with Its broad and slightly-
j i . Kt-Iiyi im heralded as the
dressy type of chapeaux for Fall and
Winter. They are duiii inoucraiou
high, with huge crowns, and will be
covered with velvet principally, with
under lacings or buk in hbiu
This under facing. If chosen wisely, can
De iuwjo -
may choose the delicate tone of silk
best suited to one's coloring, and make
the tone to blena wim one o cusumis
charmingly.
up of old materials can employ and
with lace treated to It for yokes, under
sleeves and skirt bands there Is at once
a look of distinction.
And now pray let me demonstrate
with the models shown herewith, all of
which offer the smartest possibilities
for remodeling.
Flcure A. This Is a tunic costume of
black fishnet over royal blue messallne.
It Is trimmed with a blue and black ap
plique laid on the net to form a deep
border like lace, and a soft sash of silk
girdles the waist.
Let us assume that there is a silk em
pire dress from last Summer to be made
over one with the Inevitable lace yoke,
short waist and skimp skirt. If this is
still in a fair condition, clean the lace
yoke. But on new fastenings and match
the eilk with a net or veiling, or get a
pretty sprigged muslin.- These new ma
terials are for the upper part of the
dress, which begins with the lower line
of the lace yoke and goes to the hem of
the foundation. Make a straight wide
flounce and tuck the bottom or trim it
with a bias band from six to eight inches
deep. Sew this on the empire founda
tion, gathering it a little more fully at
the back and sides than at the front.
Shape the tunic according to the pictured
model and attach it at the waist a little
above the normal waist line. When mak
ing the Jumper blouse have the outside
belt wide enough to hide the short waist
line of the foundation. This dress can be
made In one In this way over any prin
cess slip, or It may be divided, as pic
tured, into two pieces.
For the Jumper, tunic and skirt flounce
eight years of single width goods would
be needed.
Figure B. This frock shows how an
old net or lace waist may be made the
first principle of a very smart gown,
whether the sleeves are In the present
kimono shape or not. Here the waist is
made of cream net. tucked finely, and
with the bodice and sleeves in one. A
chantecler ruffle of lace trims the neck
and the pretty cuffs are of the skirt
tuff, which is a cream sateen with vel
vet flowers. On the skirt, tunic and bibs
a cream lace is used like that of the neck
ruffle.
If the old lace or net bodice is In good
condition, quite a. pale goods could be
used for the rest of the dress, hut If not
the new material bad better be in some
dim tone, such as smoke-gray, brown,
"faded" blue, etc Again. If there la
material enough for all the dress" but
the waist this could be of spotted point
d'esprit, which airy and effective tex
tile, when of cotton, is very cheap.
For the skirt flounce, tunic and bibs,
seven or eight yards of medium wide
goods would be needed.
Figure C This dainty and very fern-,
FIGURE
lnlne-little frock offers a way to draw
a wide skirt In after the present close
manner, while almost any jumper bodice
from last season might be arranged to
advantage as here. As pictured the little
frock is of sprigged muslin in pale blue
and white, with a simple white lace used
on- the bodice and for the hobbling skirt
band. The tucked vest, and neck and
sleeve ruffles are of plain white muslin.
A plain goods would be as effective in
this style as a flowered one, and If veil
ing were employed a matching or con
trasting silk could be used for the trim
ming. The model also allows for a round
or slightly trained skirt.
From eight to ten yards of new ma
terial would be required for the design
this In the average single width.
Figure D. A very smart and useful
outing frock may be got up in this man
ner from an old coat suit ample enough
to permit recuttlng. The suit consists
of a very scant gored skirt, trimmed
at the bottom with a band In contrast
ing color. The Jacket Is in Norfolk
shape with collar and cuffs like the
skirt band, and a leather belt, slipping
under the stitched bands, which are put
on like Norfolk plaits. In cutting over
the old suit from last Summer the sur
plus of the skirt breadths could be used
for the stitched band of the coat, and
If the bottom of the skirt is worn it
could be cut away here, and pieoed
with a lining material, over which the
trimming band would be put. The
sleeves might be lengthened In the same
way under the cuffs. If this were neces
sary, and the coat itself made still
shorter.
MARY DEAN.
B.
Menus for One
Week
BY LILIAN TINQlaB.
Tuesday.
Celerv oonBOmm.
Mutton cutlets. Southern styl.
" Rice -imbales. Baked tomato.
Pear and celery salad.
Coffee jelly. Cream.,
Coffee.
Wednesday.
Mutton broth with vegetable
Beef tongue corned. Falsln" sauea.
Potatoes au gratin. Htrlns bean.
Lettuce salad.
Peach puddlnc (cold).
Coffee.
Thursday.
Cream of beef soup.
Hunter's pie. Corn custard,
lettuce heart and pepper salad.
Chilled watermelon. Little cake.
Coffee.
Friday.
Tomato bouillon.
Baked halibut au gratia.
Cu cumber salad. Brown sliced potatoes
Pineapple fritters.
Coffee.
Saturday.
Fish chowder soup.
Stuffed peppers (minced fresh meat).
Scalloped potatoes. Green corn.
Tomato salad.
Peach Shortcake. '
Coffee.
Sunday.
Vegetable consomme.
Roast eaL Savory dressing.
Pacnn rolls. - pickled peachea.
flashed potatoes. String- beans.
Lettuce saiad.
Tee cream In cantaloupes. Little cakea.
Coffee.