THE SUNT) AT OKEGOXIAX, PORTLAND, MARCH 20, 1910.
ODD SKIRT AND BLOUSE FASHIONS
CLEAVER
& HAVELICK
& 1 iJL iiMirf ill 81 PH-J Hi 11 1 ;
THE. complete . eclipse with 'which
it Is prophesied every season by
knowing nnpfl thn nPrPnTilnl
se Is threatened seems further re
tinoved than ever this season. Instead
of falling into disrepute before the on
slaught of the one-piece gown, the
'"Winter season has seen it flash into
'tineeled eminence again, and never
Iiave the shops offered a greater va
riety of these indispensable separate
Mouses than the spring- showing in
cludes. .One may find them in every
form and fabric, from the simple morn
ing affairs of pique or lawn, to the
lace and embroidered and chiffon
veiled satin ones.
The lingerie styles show a greater
amount of hand-work than ever be
fore. Many of the tailored effects
have detachable collars and cuffs of
linen with English embroidery done in
white or colors. Rlouses .made of
riinon are especially favored for wear
with the plainer streets suits. But it
Is the more elaborate blouses that have
undergone the greatest transformation.
-A. blouse unveile,d by chiffon or net or
lace and without a touch of gold or ell
ver Is scarcely to be found in the shops.
From the bit of tinsel in the trimming
or about the neck has developed the
(blouse made entirely of gold net
veiled with some transparent stuff.
T"or the gold net is sometimes substi
tuted brocade, which' is veiled with net
or chiffon the color of the costume.
One model was of flowered brocade
completely covered with row after row
of fine Valenciennes lace Joined with
Kold thread.. -
A plain gold." foundation blouse may
have several chiffon slips, that can be
slipped over it, thus making it do ser
vice for more than one suit.' These
chiffon over-blouses will undoubtedly
fee much worn with the Spring suits.
Most attractive waists, are being
made up from tussah silks which have
rashmere printed borders. One model
employed a deep gold shade of the tus
vah silk with a border of Persian de
sign. This border crossed the front
end back and sleeves of waist at the
fbust line, the remainder of the blouse
"being veiled with black chiffon of so
cheer a quality that It did not obscure
the fabric beneath. A rolling collar
of black silk and small turn-back cuffs
Imparted a youthful air to this chic
lilouse. With it. as with many of the
new waists being put out, was pro
vided a . straight belt of black patent
leather with a gold buckle. In passing
it may be said that the restoration of
the waist line haft' brought belts of
every description into favor again.
Suits are being shown with which
are supplied two patent leather belts,
the coat belt and the usual skirt belt.
A blouse in a delightful shade of
green is of coarse mesh net mounted
over chiffon of the same shade, which
is all lined with satin in the same
color. A peculiar but attractive color
scheme was attained by the use of a
clever shade of purple for the mousse
line yoke, standing collar. lower
sleeves and tucked waist. Two oblong
revers of black satin and a soft
crushed belt of satin added a distinct
ive touch.
Gray, shades were used in a simple
little blouse for wear with a tailored
milt of gray serge. The yoke and
sleeves of chiffon, matching the net of
the waist, were tucked in fine tucks
headed with a silver thread. The net
across the bust was embroidered in
coarse gray silk, combined with a soft
shade of yellow with a silver thread
running through it, which gave a very
rich effect.
The side closing continues to be a
popular feature of the blouse for every
day wear. This Is sometimes fastened
simply with -tailored buttons, but more
often closes- with a frill of silk or net.
A model in marine blue ribbed silk
which fastened to one side had a frill
of plaited net in the same shade upon
the edge of which was stitched a bias
fold about half an inch wide of plaid
taffeta. A fold of plaid silk completed
the standing collar and formed also a
wide crush girdle. The yoke of this
blouse was laid In ' deep horizontal
tucks, from shoulder to shoulder, while
two bias straps extended from the belt
up over the shoulders and Into the belt
at the back.
Bands of broadcloth elaborately
braided with black soutache formed the
striking trimming of a dark blue chif
fon cloth blouse. ' The small round
yoke and standing collar were of all
over lace finished at the edge with a
cording of black silk, and in the front
with a straight black velvet bow. The
bands were put on over the shoulder
seams and extended the length of the
short cap over the top of the sleeve.
There was also a band down the front
of the braided broadcloth, with squares
of this trimming over the bust.
Hand embroidery, or some of the
clever imitations thereof, and Irish
and Val. laces dominate the lingerie
models. As yet the bishop sleeve is
seen on most of the waists, but there
is little doubt that the short sleeve is
on the way to us again, to the delight
of the plump and the dejection of the
scrawny.
A favorite style in the tailored waists
has four box plaits on each side, with
the central one twice the width of the
side plaits. Many of these have also
stitched straps over the shoulder
seams. In epaulet fashion. The sleeves
are plaited the entire length from the
shoulder down to the three-inch stif
fened cuff.
The separate skirts are to be found
in every variety of the tunic or over
skirt style, as well as in the plainer
pleated models. Plain materials pre
dominate, but gray mixtures and two
tone stripes, as well as shepherd
checks, are shown In attractive models.
A decided novelty, introducing a strik
ing black and white stripe effect, has
the panels of black serge overlapping
the tops of box plait of the diagonally
striped material set on Just below the
knee. The effect produced is of a
slashed overskirt-
The new skirts all show a return to
the normal waist line, which is indeed
the marked tendency of all gowns and
suits. Trimming consists usually of
cloth-covered buttons on- the plainly
tailored skirts, while with the tunic
effects no trimming at all Is used.
Glove Hints
THERE la nothing about a woman
that so loudly proclaims her taste
and her habits as the sort of
gloves she is wearing. She may smile
under Imported millinery, and trail
chiffons and laces, but if a pink finger
tip push forth through her glove tip,
or a buttonless gap be disclosed, her
ways are made plain to us. We are
certain the millinery and the frou-frou
are draggled and tattered.
. In this day of silk and chamois
gloves a woman can be always neatly
and Inexpensively gloved. Chamois
gloves not only may be washed a dozen
times, each time coming out like new
if properly done, but they give a touch
of smartness to the street frock, and
are particularly affected by the out-
NO SMALL WAIST MODELS IN CORSETS
WHEN a woman won't, she won't,
and that's all there Is to it.
Never has this been so conclu
sively proven as In the case of woman
versus the corset-makers. Ever and
anon the makers of modes devolve
fashions that recall the wasp-like
waists of a few years since the Louis
XV styles, for instance, and the pres
ent belted blouse effects. The corset
makers speak up straightway and pro
claim the Imminent revival of minute
waists and suddenly curving hips. But
Madame? Pooh, she will have none of
It not if the distraught corset-makers
can devise no other models at all cal
culated to force entire renewal of
stock. She has been permitted to get
acquainted with the workings of her
diaphragm and she proposes to be com
fortable at all costs.
Thus it is that there has been little
change in corset styles for Spring and
Summer wear. The bust is slightly
lowered, the back Is slightly shortened,
with a bit more spring below the waist
line, the tendency is toward greater
suppleness and less boning, and the
trimmings are very simple.
The effort to mold the figure into
curves of beauty with the minimum
amount of boning, which is not only
uncomfortable but gives the figure a
stiff also stuffed appearance, has
been most successful in a popular
model of the ace-ln-front style. The
sldebones extend only to the turn of
the hips and the back bones are con
siderably shorter than, usual. The front
steels are remarkably flexible and
lighter in weight than the ordinary
steel.
' Another model is practically bone
less, having only the front and back
steels, and two side steels. The bust is
supported by two tiny bones that run
backward from the front steel and two
diagonal Venus bones under the arm.
It will be seen that such a corset can
not fall to allow every freedom to the
body and comfort to the wearer.
Although svelte slimness continues
hand-painted in the most delicate de
to be fashion's . dictum there are few
figures so perfect that a little judicious
padding does ' not improve their con
tours. Most figures are inclined to a
little flatness below the waist line in
the back," which is overcome by a small
oval pad that helps to give the long
line required. The looser bust that is
favored this season often makes a bust
pad of some, description necessary.
These are sometimes in the form of
padded satin bows, which may be
signs or elaborately lace trimmed, or
sre simply covered with washable slips
that may be removed. Many prefer
the sets of ruffles, which are especial
ly desirable for Summer because of
tiieir coolness.
For the stout woman there are many
tricks of the trade which tend to re
duce her too. too solid flesh. There is
the hip confiner of sturdy tricot which
la woven to the outline of the body.
This Is worn below the waist line and
is adjusted by means of the gores at
the side that permit of lacing. The
latest models In brassieres are also the
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knitted tricot, but are adjusted with
out lacing. Straps from the front pass
around the figure and cross to the op
posite shoulder, which thus makes it
answer the purpose of a sort of shoul
der brace, as well as bust supporter.
Though fewer hose suporters are be
ing used than formerly, they are all of
the broad, flat, heavy variety, with lit
tle or no trimming. When the silk
Jersey cloths In colors are used for the
more expensive models, the supporters
are of the same color, but rarely have
any more elaborate trimming than a
flat satin bow.
Z li.
i Shop at the Specialty Shop.
NEW EASTER ACCESSORIES
Kid Gloves
Only the best are sold here. We
guarantee satisfaction, Jl to $4.
La Tosca Corsets
The fit of your gown depends
upon the corset. La Tosca Cor
sets are new. up-to-date; $1.25
t S10. We guarantee satisfac
tion. Neckwear
Embroidery Collars, 25c to $3.00
each.- Embroidery Tabs, Jabots
and Dutch Collars. 35c to $9.00
each. Chiffon Drapes, Figured
Scarfs, $1.50 to $10.00 each.
Lisle and Silk Hosiery
Italian silk $1.50, fine spun silk
$1.75 to $5. fine Lisle 35c, 50c,
65c and $1.00.
F. P. YOUNG
SOO Morrison St., bet. 4th and 5th,
Corbett Bids.
door woman because of their supple
qualities. Silk gloves are worn the
year round by many of the best dressd
women; it is declared this season will
see a greater popularity for them than
ever before.
Though we have but just been eman
cipated from the purse-splitting long
gloves, dealers are getting ready to
meet the big - demand there is bound
to be for them when the elbow sleeve
is fairly with us again. For early
Spring the mosquetaire, in six and
eight-button lengths, will be worn with
the new three-quarter, or more nearly,
seven-eighths sleeves. For automobll
ing or driving these come in a slightly
heavier weight, and Instead of buttons
have a strap at the wrist to confine the
fullness.
Gloves for evening wear are usually
of the 18, 20 and 24-button lengths. A
decided novelty in evening effects is a
glove with the .back stitching outlined
with tiny, pearls. This idea is also
carrledout In various colored gems, but
the effect is not so attractive.
Take pleasure in announc
ing the completeness of
their Spring apparel for
i women and misses. Style,
'fit and fabric perfect in our
Tailor-made Suits, Coats,
Dresses, Automobile Ap
parel, Skirts, Petticoats,
Waists, Hand-made Neck-
wear and French Jewelry.' .
Tailor-made Stats in all
the new- fabrics. White,
tan, blue and gray, in the
new Spring shades, from
$18.50 tip to $47-50. Coats
of covert, serges and pon
gee silks; tan, white, blue
and gray; cut right, fit
right; from $15.00 up to
$40.00. Lingerie and Tail
ored Waists, different.
from what you find else
where $2.00 up to $10.00.
Your Inspection
Cordially Invited
GLEAVER
& HAVELICK
409 WASHINGTON ST.
BET. TENTH AND ELEVENTH STS.
Portland.
San Francisco.
Seattle.
Specialists in
GLOVES-HOSIERY-UMBRELLAS
Showing
SPRING AND EASTER GLOVES
Manufactured by the World's Best Makers Expressly for
. Lennon's. Our gloves have style, tone, character, fit
and wearing qualities that are not found in other makes.
FOR EASTER WEAR
"Dictator" Women's 2-pearl-clasp real kid,- guaranteed
to be the best glove for the price in the world. Black,
white, tans, gold and all the new shades, at, the pair,
$2.00.
"Reynier" Make Pique Suedes for Women New styles
of slate, gold, mastic, pastel, biscuit, etc. ; beautifully
embroidered, $2.00.-
"Dent" Women's 2-Clasp English Cape Also one large
.pearl clasp, dark tan shade, $2.00.
"The Strand" Lennon's own make pique kid glove;
the best in the world for $1.50.
Chamois and Chamoisette The widely popular chamois
ette glove ; look arid wear like chamois, 50c.
Women's Wash Chamois Beautifully tailored; white and
natural; pair, 95c, $1.25 and $1.50.
Kayser Silk Gloves We are headquarters for this cele
brated make of silk gloves.
Women's Kayser 2-Clasp Silk Gloves All colors, 50c,
75c and $1.00.
Kayser 's 16-button Length Silk Gloves Black, white and
all colors, pair, $1.00.
'FOR GLOVES AND UMBXEUAS
Morrison Street, Opposite Postoffice.
Your
Figure
Can
Be
Improved
MAIN 939
ISCOMFORT and suffering are not necessary in
Jit maintaining a good figure. It Is seldom that
you find a ready-made corset that is "Just right,"
and we are demonstrating daily that, by expert mak
ing and fitting, the highest type of shapely beauty
may be attained without sacrificing comfort.
One, trial will convince you - that our corsets and
forms are perfection In style, qnalrry and enonomy. We
invite you to inspect our equipment at your conveni-
MADAME HILL, Corsetiere
38V Washington St.
Portland Oregon.
Mme. Marie U. Zeitfucfis
346 ALDER. NEAR SEVENTH
MILLINERY
IMPORTED
DOMESTIC
Our Pattern Hats include French creations. Gage and
Burgesser Models, etc Our tailored hats are the most
original and nobbiest in the city. We sell
Redfern, Warner, Crosby Front Lacing, Parisette Corsets
We make a specialty of fitting .very form correctly.
Entire Building
Corner Fourth Morrison
We are Specialists in Feminine Apparel
Our Exclusive Styles in Millinery,
Tailored Suits, Dresses and "Waists;
all that is correct in Easter Apparel
for Women fc? "Misses moderately priced