THE SUNT) AT OKEGOXIAX, PORTLAND, MARCH 20, 1910. ODD SKIRT AND BLOUSE FASHIONS CLEAVER & HAVELICK & 1 iJL iiMirf ill 81 PH-J Hi 11 1 ; THE. complete . eclipse with 'which it Is prophesied every season by knowing nnpfl thn nPrPnTilnl se Is threatened seems further re tinoved than ever this season. Instead of falling into disrepute before the on slaught of the one-piece gown, the '"Winter season has seen it flash into 'tineeled eminence again, and never Iiave the shops offered a greater va riety of these indispensable separate Mouses than the spring- showing in cludes. .One may find them in every form and fabric, from the simple morn ing affairs of pique or lawn, to the lace and embroidered and chiffon veiled satin ones. The lingerie styles show a greater amount of hand-work than ever be fore. Many of the tailored effects have detachable collars and cuffs of linen with English embroidery done in white or colors. Rlouses .made of riinon are especially favored for wear with the plainer streets suits. But it Is the more elaborate blouses that have undergone the greatest transformation. -A. blouse unveile,d by chiffon or net or lace and without a touch of gold or ell ver Is scarcely to be found in the shops. From the bit of tinsel in the trimming or about the neck has developed the (blouse made entirely of gold net veiled with some transparent stuff. T"or the gold net is sometimes substi tuted brocade, which' is veiled with net or chiffon the color of the costume. One model was of flowered brocade completely covered with row after row of fine Valenciennes lace Joined with Kold thread.. - A plain gold." foundation blouse may have several chiffon slips, that can be slipped over it, thus making it do ser vice for more than one suit.' These chiffon over-blouses will undoubtedly fee much worn with the Spring suits. Most attractive waists, are being made up from tussah silks which have rashmere printed borders. One model employed a deep gold shade of the tus vah silk with a border of Persian de sign. This border crossed the front end back and sleeves of waist at the fbust line, the remainder of the blouse "being veiled with black chiffon of so cheer a quality that It did not obscure the fabric beneath. A rolling collar of black silk and small turn-back cuffs Imparted a youthful air to this chic lilouse. With it. as with many of the new waists being put out, was pro vided a . straight belt of black patent leather with a gold buckle. In passing it may be said that the restoration of the waist line haft' brought belts of every description into favor again. Suits are being shown with which are supplied two patent leather belts, the coat belt and the usual skirt belt. A blouse in a delightful shade of green is of coarse mesh net mounted over chiffon of the same shade, which is all lined with satin in the same color. A peculiar but attractive color scheme was attained by the use of a clever shade of purple for the mousse line yoke, standing collar. lower sleeves and tucked waist. Two oblong revers of black satin and a soft crushed belt of satin added a distinct ive touch. Gray, shades were used in a simple little blouse for wear with a tailored milt of gray serge. The yoke and sleeves of chiffon, matching the net of the waist, were tucked in fine tucks headed with a silver thread. The net across the bust was embroidered in coarse gray silk, combined with a soft shade of yellow with a silver thread running through it, which gave a very rich effect. The side closing continues to be a popular feature of the blouse for every day wear. This Is sometimes fastened simply with -tailored buttons, but more often closes- with a frill of silk or net. A model in marine blue ribbed silk which fastened to one side had a frill of plaited net in the same shade upon the edge of which was stitched a bias fold about half an inch wide of plaid taffeta. A fold of plaid silk completed the standing collar and formed also a wide crush girdle. The yoke of this blouse was laid In ' deep horizontal tucks, from shoulder to shoulder, while two bias straps extended from the belt up over the shoulders and Into the belt at the back. Bands of broadcloth elaborately braided with black soutache formed the striking trimming of a dark blue chif fon cloth blouse. ' The small round yoke and standing collar were of all over lace finished at the edge with a cording of black silk, and in the front with a straight black velvet bow. The bands were put on over the shoulder seams and extended the length of the short cap over the top of the sleeve. There was also a band down the front of the braided broadcloth, with squares of this trimming over the bust. Hand embroidery, or some of the clever imitations thereof, and Irish and Val. laces dominate the lingerie models. As yet the bishop sleeve is seen on most of the waists, but there is little doubt that the short sleeve is on the way to us again, to the delight of the plump and the dejection of the scrawny. A favorite style in the tailored waists has four box plaits on each side, with the central one twice the width of the side plaits. Many of these have also stitched straps over the shoulder seams. In epaulet fashion. The sleeves are plaited the entire length from the shoulder down to the three-inch stif fened cuff. The separate skirts are to be found in every variety of the tunic or over skirt style, as well as in the plainer pleated models. Plain materials pre dominate, but gray mixtures and two tone stripes, as well as shepherd checks, are shown In attractive models. A decided novelty, introducing a strik ing black and white stripe effect, has the panels of black serge overlapping the tops of box plait of the diagonally striped material set on Just below the knee. The effect produced is of a slashed overskirt- The new skirts all show a return to the normal waist line, which is indeed the marked tendency of all gowns and suits. Trimming consists usually of cloth-covered buttons on- the plainly tailored skirts, while with the tunic effects no trimming at all Is used. Glove Hints THERE la nothing about a woman that so loudly proclaims her taste and her habits as the sort of gloves she is wearing. She may smile under Imported millinery, and trail chiffons and laces, but if a pink finger tip push forth through her glove tip, or a buttonless gap be disclosed, her ways are made plain to us. We are certain the millinery and the frou-frou are draggled and tattered. . In this day of silk and chamois gloves a woman can be always neatly and Inexpensively gloved. Chamois gloves not only may be washed a dozen times, each time coming out like new if properly done, but they give a touch of smartness to the street frock, and are particularly affected by the out- NO SMALL WAIST MODELS IN CORSETS WHEN a woman won't, she won't, and that's all there Is to it. Never has this been so conclu sively proven as In the case of woman versus the corset-makers. Ever and anon the makers of modes devolve fashions that recall the wasp-like waists of a few years since the Louis XV styles, for instance, and the pres ent belted blouse effects. The corset makers speak up straightway and pro claim the Imminent revival of minute waists and suddenly curving hips. But Madame? Pooh, she will have none of It not if the distraught corset-makers can devise no other models at all cal culated to force entire renewal of stock. She has been permitted to get acquainted with the workings of her diaphragm and she proposes to be com fortable at all costs. Thus it is that there has been little change in corset styles for Spring and Summer wear. The bust is slightly lowered, the back Is slightly shortened, with a bit more spring below the waist line, the tendency is toward greater suppleness and less boning, and the trimmings are very simple. The effort to mold the figure into curves of beauty with the minimum amount of boning, which is not only uncomfortable but gives the figure a stiff also stuffed appearance, has been most successful in a popular model of the ace-ln-front style. The sldebones extend only to the turn of the hips and the back bones are con siderably shorter than, usual. The front steels are remarkably flexible and lighter in weight than the ordinary steel. ' Another model is practically bone less, having only the front and back steels, and two side steels. The bust is supported by two tiny bones that run backward from the front steel and two diagonal Venus bones under the arm. It will be seen that such a corset can not fall to allow every freedom to the body and comfort to the wearer. Although svelte slimness continues hand-painted in the most delicate de to be fashion's . dictum there are few figures so perfect that a little judicious padding does ' not improve their con tours. Most figures are inclined to a little flatness below the waist line in the back," which is overcome by a small oval pad that helps to give the long line required. The looser bust that is favored this season often makes a bust pad of some, description necessary. These are sometimes in the form of padded satin bows, which may be signs or elaborately lace trimmed, or sre simply covered with washable slips that may be removed. Many prefer the sets of ruffles, which are especial ly desirable for Summer because of tiieir coolness. For the stout woman there are many tricks of the trade which tend to re duce her too. too solid flesh. There is the hip confiner of sturdy tricot which la woven to the outline of the body. This Is worn below the waist line and is adjusted by means of the gores at the side that permit of lacing. The latest models In brassieres are also the ft vt-r 4i 5 t AW ,y u l ; Ifnjf ' I III h I tl U i Mini! I ? '4.. 3 a "i v- mil knitted tricot, but are adjusted with out lacing. Straps from the front pass around the figure and cross to the op posite shoulder, which thus makes it answer the purpose of a sort of shoul der brace, as well as bust supporter. Though fewer hose suporters are be ing used than formerly, they are all of the broad, flat, heavy variety, with lit tle or no trimming. When the silk Jersey cloths In colors are used for the more expensive models, the supporters are of the same color, but rarely have any more elaborate trimming than a flat satin bow. Z li. i Shop at the Specialty Shop. NEW EASTER ACCESSORIES Kid Gloves Only the best are sold here. We guarantee satisfaction, Jl to $4. La Tosca Corsets The fit of your gown depends upon the corset. La Tosca Cor sets are new. up-to-date; $1.25 t S10. We guarantee satisfac tion. Neckwear Embroidery Collars, 25c to $3.00 each.- Embroidery Tabs, Jabots and Dutch Collars. 35c to $9.00 each. Chiffon Drapes, Figured Scarfs, $1.50 to $10.00 each. Lisle and Silk Hosiery Italian silk $1.50, fine spun silk $1.75 to $5. fine Lisle 35c, 50c, 65c and $1.00. F. P. YOUNG SOO Morrison St., bet. 4th and 5th, Corbett Bids. door woman because of their supple qualities. Silk gloves are worn the year round by many of the best dressd women; it is declared this season will see a greater popularity for them than ever before. Though we have but just been eman cipated from the purse-splitting long gloves, dealers are getting ready to meet the big - demand there is bound to be for them when the elbow sleeve is fairly with us again. For early Spring the mosquetaire, in six and eight-button lengths, will be worn with the new three-quarter, or more nearly, seven-eighths sleeves. For automobll ing or driving these come in a slightly heavier weight, and Instead of buttons have a strap at the wrist to confine the fullness. Gloves for evening wear are usually of the 18, 20 and 24-button lengths. A decided novelty in evening effects is a glove with the .back stitching outlined with tiny, pearls. This idea is also carrledout In various colored gems, but the effect is not so attractive. Take pleasure in announc ing the completeness of their Spring apparel for i women and misses. Style, 'fit and fabric perfect in our Tailor-made Suits, Coats, Dresses, Automobile Ap parel, Skirts, Petticoats, Waists, Hand-made Neck- wear and French Jewelry.' . Tailor-made Stats in all the new- fabrics. White, tan, blue and gray, in the new Spring shades, from $18.50 tip to $47-50. Coats of covert, serges and pon gee silks; tan, white, blue and gray; cut right, fit right; from $15.00 up to $40.00. Lingerie and Tail ored Waists, different. from what you find else where $2.00 up to $10.00. Your Inspection Cordially Invited GLEAVER & HAVELICK 409 WASHINGTON ST. BET. TENTH AND ELEVENTH STS. Portland. San Francisco. Seattle. Specialists in GLOVES-HOSIERY-UMBRELLAS Showing SPRING AND EASTER GLOVES Manufactured by the World's Best Makers Expressly for . Lennon's. Our gloves have style, tone, character, fit and wearing qualities that are not found in other makes. FOR EASTER WEAR "Dictator" Women's 2-pearl-clasp real kid,- guaranteed to be the best glove for the price in the world. Black, white, tans, gold and all the new shades, at, the pair, $2.00. "Reynier" Make Pique Suedes for Women New styles of slate, gold, mastic, pastel, biscuit, etc. ; beautifully embroidered, $2.00.- "Dent" Women's 2-Clasp English Cape Also one large .pearl clasp, dark tan shade, $2.00. "The Strand" Lennon's own make pique kid glove; the best in the world for $1.50. Chamois and Chamoisette The widely popular chamois ette glove ; look arid wear like chamois, 50c. Women's Wash Chamois Beautifully tailored; white and natural; pair, 95c, $1.25 and $1.50. Kayser Silk Gloves We are headquarters for this cele brated make of silk gloves. Women's Kayser 2-Clasp Silk Gloves All colors, 50c, 75c and $1.00. Kayser 's 16-button Length Silk Gloves Black, white and all colors, pair, $1.00. 'FOR GLOVES AND UMBXEUAS Morrison Street, Opposite Postoffice. Your Figure Can Be Improved MAIN 939 ISCOMFORT and suffering are not necessary in Jit maintaining a good figure. It Is seldom that you find a ready-made corset that is "Just right," and we are demonstrating daily that, by expert mak ing and fitting, the highest type of shapely beauty may be attained without sacrificing comfort. One, trial will convince you - that our corsets and forms are perfection In style, qnalrry and enonomy. We invite you to inspect our equipment at your conveni- MADAME HILL, Corsetiere 38V Washington St. Portland Oregon. Mme. Marie U. Zeitfucfis 346 ALDER. NEAR SEVENTH MILLINERY IMPORTED DOMESTIC Our Pattern Hats include French creations. Gage and Burgesser Models, etc Our tailored hats are the most original and nobbiest in the city. We sell Redfern, Warner, Crosby Front Lacing, Parisette Corsets We make a specialty of fitting .very form correctly. Entire Building Corner Fourth Morrison We are Specialists in Feminine Apparel Our Exclusive Styles in Millinery, Tailored Suits, Dresses and "Waists; all that is correct in Easter Apparel for Women fc? "Misses moderately priced