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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (March 20, 1910)
THE SUNDAY OREGONIAN, PORTLAND, MARCH 20, 1.9 10. POPULAR ONE. PIECE FROCK FAILS TO SUPPLANT THE SEPARATE BLOUSE Staple Garment Is Shown in Every Form and Fabric in New Spring Stocks of Local Dealers Lingerie Styles - Include More Handwork Than Ever. I ESPITE the continued popularity of the one-piece frock, the blouse and separate ekirt are In no danger of being eclipsed, notwithstanding re ports to the contrary, according to the showings In the windows and at the counters of the progressive department stores and outfitting houses of Portland. Some of the smartest costumes shown ere tasteful combinations of fancy waists and grace fuiy -fitting walking skirts, or Indoor skirts of more delicate fabric and fanciful design. Perennially one hears the prediction that the separate blouse Is on the wane, but It never quite disappears, and Just e.t present all indications are fof a new eeason of great popularity for the well nigh indispensable separate blouse. It is being shown in every form and fabric, from simple morning affairs of pique or lawn to embroidered and chiffon-veiled eatln ones. The lingerie styles show a greater amount of handwork than ever before and many of the strictly tailored effects have detachable cuffs and collars, which are heavily embroidered, in wiite or colors. For wear with the plainer street suits blouses made o linen are much favored, running into the shirtwaist class. It is In the more elaborate blouses that the greatest transformation is noticed. A touch of gold or silver tinsel and much draping of delicate transparencies over lustrous satin of delicately rich tones are general characteristics. The transparent over-blouse, to be worn with under-slips of various colors, is to the fore notice ably, but It is richer and more elaborate in design than those of previous seasons, gold and silver net being greatly favored. Attractive waists of tussah silks, with touches and borderings in the Persian designs and veiled in sheer silk chiffon, are being much displayed. The smartness and great variety of the new separate blouse and skirt costumes are , suggested by the accompanying sketches, which were made from the showings in different local stores. . Three types of the plaited skirt are shown In the upper figures, and below are two tunic effects for evening wear. No. 7 shows a draped tunic combina tion in a softfl clinging material on the foulard order, in a delicate biscuit color, with borderings in black dots of raised silk embroidering. The drape is caught up by a rectangular buckle of Jet, which curves snugly to lit the hip. No. 10 is in a delicate gray tone, with embroidered silk roses in pink, and the material is a soft fabric very much like nun's veiling. The effect is very graceful and charming! Gray shades are much used in the blouses also, particularly in . the veiled designs, the gray chiffon or other trans parency being draped over richly deli cate tones to make a charming combina tion color effect. No. 9 shows a rather unueual design in the veiled blouse, com bined wfth jewelled embroidery. The yoke is of jewelled embroidery and a del icate tones to make a charming combina tion color effect. N. 9 shows a rather unusual design in the veiled blouse, com bined with jewelled embroider-. The yoke is of jewelled embroidery and a deli cate cobweb lace, and the body of the blouse is of cream chiffon draped over rose-tone satin. The Jewelling and em broidery follow -the delicate Dresden blendings, and the sleeves show three shirred puffs above the elbow. The old surpliced design is revived in No. 8, which is of light blue cloth fold ed to form the body of the blouse, stid combined with a yoke of cream net Jewelled In blue and finished with a silk en collar in combined blue and cream tones. Two dinty lingerie blouses. No. 1 of soft linen and embroidery and No. 2 of fine muslin paneled with an embroid ered strip, are shown in the upper sketches. No. 3 is of pale blue cloth, heavily embroidered, end with embroidery-covered buttons over a yoke and sleeves of fine net studded with tiny gold rings. ROCKEFELLER MILLIONS WILL MELT SLOWLY IF YOUNG JOHN D. HAS SAY Son of Oil King, Who Is Anything but Generous, Will Probably Control Foundation Roosevelt Reception Com mittee in New York Has Become So Large That It Is Joke. BY LLOTD F. LONERGAN. iEW YORK, March 19. (Special.) Ever since John D. Rolkefeller made the announcement that he intended to form a "charity trust," so to speak, his mall from cranks has in creased vastly, and all sorts of strange letters have been received by his sec retary. Most of these, of course, never reacji Mr. Rockefeller at all. It seems to be pretty well estab lished that the distribution of this big fund will be the responsibility of John D. Rockefeller, Jr. He is 36 years of age and several times a millionaire in his, own right. One Wall Street man aptly describes him in these words: "He can search the holy scriptures, and at the same time keep .an eye on the ticker tape as an Investor." Nobody ever accused young Rocke feller of being liberal. His Sunday School students know that, for not only have they been compelled to lis ten to Rockefeller's dreary speeches week after week, but they are also forcd to pay all the expenses of the outings that they take in his com pany. John D., Jr.. has recently outlined his everyday philosophy in a series of pub lished "Don'ts. Here are two of them: "Don't wat& your money. Thirty all I ever spend for lunch- enough for any man on a cents is eon. It salary." "Don't which live above your income." good advice from a man who practices as he preaches, and also could not spend his income if he tried. There will be nothing lavish or open handed about the Rockefeller charity foundation, if J. T.. Jr., controls the purse strings. The probabilities are that the cash on hand will increase rather than decrease. Young Rockefeller may endow a few churches or provide a pension fund for ministers of approved standing who have labored for 50 or 60 years, but so far as the everyday man and woman is concerned, young John I. Is com pletely out of touch with them, and thev will always be "out of touch," too, so far as the Rockefeller millions are concerned. Committee Will Be Large. If Mayor Gaynor keeps on making additions to the Roosevelt reception committee, it will soon have to hold meetings in Madison Square Garden or Central Park. Every few days another batch of names is announced, and the matter is rapidly reaching a point where it is a joke. The last appointees Included a number of labor union lead ers, a score of militiamen, a former warden of the Tombs and an assorted lot of Italian politicians. Every time a man goes to the City Hall nowaday, if he cannot get a job under the municipal government he is certain to receive a consolation prize in the shape of a place on . the Roose velt reception committee. If this whole bunch goes down the bay to meet Roosevelt, as is the present plan, the ex-President will be justified in believ ing that all New York has decided to receive him before he can place his foot on American soil, Cornelius Vand'erbilt is one of the few commiteemen who is really doii any work, and he is determined to make the affair a success. One sug gestion that is made to him Is that he chloroform, most of his associates a week or so before the ship bringing Roosevelt is sighted oft Nantucket. Roosevelt will have a newspaper es cort across the ocean, of course. Every big paper has sent men, and the World representative, Fred Sturtevant, went as far as Egypt to get the first chance at America's distinguished citizen. Statues Are to Be Washed. Scattered around the parks of Manhat tan Island are statues worth between J-'.OOO.OOO and $3,000,000. The Park Com missioner is the custodian of these pieces, erected as memorials of the great and good. I Commissioner Stoer. who took - office on the firm of the year, has been inspect ing this outdoor bric-a-brac. He. is not satisfied with what he has seen' and has called in Gutzon Borglum, the sculptor, to give expert advice in the case. The system seems to have been that tTie statues are erected with more or less pomp and then promptly forgotten. Mr. Borglum favors having their clothes cleaned and their oomplexlous freshened up with soap and water. In the case of equestrians, the horses will also come, in for a rub-down and currycombing. Mr. Stover plans to do a thorough job of Spring cleaning, but he hopes that in the future provision can be made for regular continuance of the work. Some philanthropist may endow a Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Statues. It is a field in charity work that has not jet been filled. Club Held Over Gamblers. Judge Warren W. Foster, of General Sessions, believes that he has found a way to call a halt on gambling. Six men were convicted before him the other day. They had been, playing "stuas," which is popular on the East Side of town. The Prosecutor proposed that the hjen be fined, but to this suggestion Judge Foster turned a deaf ear. ; "I mean to have a hold on these men in the future," he said. "If they are fined it is simply a license for them to offend again. I will suspend sentence. Then if they get in trouble later, I can revive the case, and I promise them a year on Blackwell's Island." The judge also explained that, if Can field had been allowed to go under a sus pended sentence, instead of being fined, he would never have dared to run right up to Saratoga and reopen his place there. The upshot of the matter seems to be that six unhappy men. who like to play stuss. will go to the island for a year if they ever play it again, and Judge Foster hears about it. i Ludlow Jail May 'Go. Another effort is being made to have Ludlow Street Jail torn down. This time the leader in the movement is Al bert J. Weber, a wealthy clubman, who was foreman of a recent grand Jury. Ludlow Street is realy the jail of New York County and Is under the care of the Sheriff. And unless the charter is amended. ' it will necessarily remain In operation. The chief cause of complaint is that while there are . 23 employes on the payroll, the average number of pris oners on hand is six. There is room in the jail for 20O in mates, but very few are committed there. The men are not sent to Ludlow Street for any crime, but for failure to pay alimony or National Guard dues, or for some offense against the bankruptcy laws. The length of imprisonment ranges from a few days to six months, the lat ter being the period necessary to purge oneself of contempt when ordered to pay alimony. "I have no complaint to make of Sher iff Shea or Warden Rock." said Mr. Weber today, "and in a building that size there is probably need of a force of L'3 employes. But it is. simply rot to have so few prisoners sent there. Why, at present there are four attendants to every prisoner. The best hotel in the world cannot compare with the service possible down in Ludlow street. "I have interested the Board of City Magistrates in the plan to create a new municipal building on the site of the jail and adjoining the property owned by the city. I have also suggested that the. overflow of prisoners from the Essex Market Court be given accommodations in the almost empty jail." The probabilities are, however, thst Mr. Weber's crusade will have little cr1 no effect. Illness Saves Man's' Life. " . There is a great deal of talk about "Jersey justice," which is usually cited as everything that is ewift and sure. But a case that was made public the other day throws a new light upon it. Giovanni Maioni. who killed a woman, was In the death house in the peniten tiary at Trenton, awaiting electrocution. At the last moment Governor Fort com muted his sentence to imprisonment for life. And the cause assigned for so doing was that "Maioni is a hopeless in valid, according to the affidavits of the physicians." There is no intimation of any extenu ating circumstances. Cieniency was ex tended simply and solely because the man has no chance to live. Lawyers say . that thus Is the first case of the kind on record. Mrs. Fannie Bookbinder, a bride ot eight days, created much amusement re cently when she appeared before Magis trate Corrigan in the Essex Market Court and wanted her husband punished for "cruelty." The Magistrate was sympathetic until Mrs. Bookbinder explained that the al leged cruel treatment consisted in the fact that the man's pay envelope was 30 cents shy, and that he admitted having spent the money on himself. "Sam makes $20 a week, and I want every cent of it," explained the bride with flashing eyes. "He has got to do his duty to his wife, and I thought it best to let him see. right at the start, that I would not stand for any foolishness. That Is why I brought him here." Judicious questioning revealed the fact that Mrs. Bookbinder has a bank account of her own that amounts to over $1500. She declared, however, that it was not a matter that interested anybody ex cept herself, and in fact became very peevish. Magistrate Corrigan advised the woman to go home and behave herself. And to take what money her husband saw fit to give her, and be grateful. And Mrs. Bookbinder swept out of court with an injured air that indicated that the pros pects of a good supper for "Sam" were very slim, if not absolutely nil. Police Force on Strike. There is1 a funny little strike on in Rutherford, N. J., which is just out side Jersey City. The police force has listened to the voice of its walking dele gate, and the town is now being guard ed by the firemen, who are acting as strike breakers. There are 11 bluecoats in Rutherford, and ten are "out." Indignation because a new man was promoted over their heads is given as the cause of the out break. They have made overtures look ing toward arbitration, but without suc cess. "I'll be jiggered." says Police Com- For The For The ER IRSETS; K 3 mm SELF-REDUCING wS7f(npj Bandlet 4500 X-USPENDEE? FOR THE SLENDER There's a Nemo Corset for Every Figure Every; Nemo is a" patented specialty which does something for you that no other corset can do. When all women know Nemo Corsets there'll be very little demand for other makes. "ONCE a Nemo wearer, ALWAYS a Nemo wearer.' For Stout Women I For Slender and Medium $3 OH StLK-KEUUUSU Kos. 312 and 320, for tall W stout liirures. Nos. 31 and 31 8 for short (tout figures. No.318nd320 have the Nemo "Flaming-Back." A ft SEJLK-IOCDUCIN'G With Relief Bands; No. t.JJ AOS for tall and No. 403 for abort ktout figures. e nn .-itLF-KKDUCINGNo. 522, with Tjistikopa pJ.JVJ Buudltt; Hob. SIS anu 51 8, white brocade; No. 52S, of the new fabric, "coruuroy uatUte." J fin SELF-REDOCiN Superb models in pO alia P A V white brouaUe(S8.00); fine French con til ($10.00.) The best corsets that can u mule at any price. Sold in Good Stores Throughout the World $5, rC X-CSPENDER CORSET An absolute noveltvnf W utmost importance: makes slender flira'rea sylpblike. No. 502, of fine con til; No. 503, of corduroy batiste a fabric as light as batiste, strong as coutll. BACK-RESTING A boon for tired women: No. 3S2. a model of. slender grace. SO nn -MILITARY-BELT No. 305. gives an erei-t an W graceful bearing ; long back, medium bust. SWAN-SHAPE No. 356. of fine white brocade. No. 357, of the new corduroy batiste; Ion $3.50 S3 pliable skirt- Parisian chic with Nemo durability. KOPS BROS., Mfrs, NEW YORK missioner Loveridge, "if I let a lot of ingrates run the force." And Mayor Bos man backs up his subordinate. Picturesqueness -was added to local con ditions by the fact that the firemen, un able to borrow batons from the strikers, patrolled the streets carrying fire axes. ,They made an imposing appearance and nearly scared the tramps to death. Answers to Correspondents BY LILIAN TINGLE. MARSH FIELD, Or., March 2. Will you please tell me through The Sunday Ore Ionian what can be done to polish alumi num cooking utensils if they become tar nished. Cap anything be cooked In alu minus ware such as acids, marmalades, tomatoes, . etc. ? Thanking- you for much help received from your articles. A- M. POR aluminum cooking utensils that have become dark and tarnished a solution of oxalic acid four table spoons to one gallon of water Is the quickest cleanser. This may be al lowed to boil In the pan for not more than Ave minutes, or, if used cold, may stand in the pan over night. "Wash the pan carefully with clean hofwater and soap, after this. Remember that ox alic acid is poisonous and do not leave it lying around. Slight dlscolorations inside the pan may be removed by patent cleansers. Do not, however, use these for the outside, as they will dim the polished surface. For the latter, use silver polish. Avoid alkaline wash ing powders, lye, ashes, or ammonia for cleaning aluminum. Do not scrape with a knife or sharp instrument. If food should stick, sosk in water hot or cold, according to the nature of the material, and loosen with a cork or wooden spoon. Aluminum utensils of standard makes are not affected by acids and may be used for the purposes you name. I use aluminum In my own housekeeping, and find it the most satisfactory of cooking ware".- PORTLAND. Or.. March 6. Kindly pub lish easy recipe for marshmallows. r. K. K. 1. Half box gelatine; two cups granulated sugar; one and a quarter cups water; a pinch of salt; flavor to taste. Soak the gelatine 15 minutes in half the water. Dissolve the sugar in the rest of the water, and bring to boil. Pour on the soaked gelatine and stir until dissolved. Let stand until cool, but not set. Beat until stiff, but soft enough to settle into a sheet. Pour into pans dusted with a mixture of conf ectiorfer's sugar; and cornstarch, about three-qua'rters of an inch deep. When cold and firm, cut in squares or round and roll in a mixture of corn starch and sugar. Vary by adding nuts, chocolate, or fruit juice in place of the water used to dissolve the sugar. Or roll in chopped nuts or grated co coanut before sugaring. This mixture may also be used as cake filling (not frosting) .with or without nuts and fruit. It may also be used for stuffing dates or iyrs; or for chocolate centers. 2. Prepare like No. 1. but use the juice of one lemon and one orange in place of a corresponding amount of water, and add one egg. white (un beaten) to the cool gelatine-mixture before beating, as described above. Write again ' if you wish the usual marshmallow recipe calling, for gum arabic. EUGENE. Or.. March 10. I read your merus and recipe in The Sunday Ore gnnian with much Interest and profit. Will you kindly pive In your column directions for baked onions; also for caramel Junket. , MRS. W. 1. Baked onions. No. 1. Peel rather small onions the very large ones take so long to cook, and boil in salted water 15 minutes. Drain, dry in cheese cloth, put in buttered baking-dish, add highly-seasoned brown stock to cover bottom of dishi sprinkle lightly with sugar, pepper and salt. Bake until soft and brown, basting with the stock. Baked onions. No. 2. Prepare as above,, but bake in roasting pan -with meat, and baste with dripping. Baked onions, No. 4. Trim, top and roots, place on tin plate in oven and bake in skins. Po serving, remove outer skins, sprinkle with pepper and salt, and put a little bit of butter on top of each. Baked onions, stuffed. Prepare onions as in No. 1. Turn upside down to cool a little. Remove part of centers. Chop these, adding equal parts bread-crumbs. Use salt and pepper to season; a little butter or bacon-fat and a spoonful or so of stock milk or cream to moisten. Fill the onions with the mixture, pil ing high and sprinkling with crumbs. A tiny "dab" of butter or drippings on top, will help to brown them. Bake, and baste with a little stock or water as described above. The stock may be thickened and seasoned, and served as sauce for the vegetables if they are the main dish of the meal. A little finely chopped chicken, meat, fish, or hard egg would each be a good addition to the stuffing. A little tomato sauce or catsup is also good. So in chopped green pepper, in season. 2. Caramel junket. Cook half cup white sugar in a pan until it becomes an even medium-dark brown. Dissolve in as little water as possible and bot tle for coloring and flavoring. Heat one quart fresh milk to lukewarm not hotter. Dissolve one junket tablet in on tablespoon cold water. Flavor the milk with sugar to taste say one-third to one-half cup, and ' as much of the browned sugar (caramel) solution as liked. Add half teaspoon vanilla, and the dissolved junket tablet. Stir well and pour into serving glasses. Let stand in warm not hot place to set; then place in refrigerator or other cool spot. Serve sprinkled with chopped nuts or with whipped, cream, -or plain as desired. A little caramel syrup made by dissolving lightly browned sugar in as little water as possible, might be poured, cold, on the surface of the. junket before serving, and then covered with cream or egg whip. Car amel is one of the most delicious and inexpensive of flavorings, but should be used with discretion, avoiding the bit ter, burned sugar taste. PORTLAND, Or.. March 14. Kindly give recipe for gluten bread for the diabetic. Directions for this bread were given a. month or two ago; but as I am not absolutely sure of the date I will re peat some of the instructions. The choice of flour is most impor tant. Many so-called "gluten flours" contain a considerable ' percentage of starch which cannot be allowed if a thoroughly strict diet has been ordered. Possibly the doctor may " suggest - the particular kind of flour he thinks most suitable. The "gum gluten" ground, is very often required. - Gluten bread. Make a sponge with three cups lukewarm water or milk (If allowed), one cake of compressed- yeast, softened in one-half cup of the water; and one part sifted gluten flour. When light, add one quart sifted gluten flour, two tablespoons melted butter, half to one tablespoon of salt. A few drops saccharine solution may be used, if liked, in place of the sugar added by some makers to ordinary bread. Knead until smooth and elastic. Let rise; shape in loaves. Let rise again, and bake one hour In a medium oven. Gluten puffs are made by kneading ordinary flour, witli a little salt, to a stiff paste and washing (one a sieve) ail the starch from the-gluten thus de veloped. Shape the remaining wet, gummy mass In lumps not larger than a small walnut, and bake in a rather hot oven. They should puff to three or four times their original size, but are not very "interesting eating." Gluten wafers, with or without cheese or rfuts, are often more acceptable than f bread. Chop half cup grated cheese and one-quarter cup butter into one cup gluten flour. Add half a teaspoon o salt, paprika, if liked, two table spoons cream or milk and two eggs yolks. Mix; roll into a thin sheet.. Cut In rounds or squares and bake in a quick oven. Chopped nuts may be substituted for the cheese. The wafers may be sprinkled with either cheese or nuts, to give variety; or a whole nut meat may be pressed on each wafer. Write to me if you want other gluten recipes or any of the bean or nut wafers sometimes ordered for diabetes. Keb. 27. -What do you think would be nice for a lunch for an evening home wed ding for about 30 guests? MOTHER. This is not an easy question to an swer, since so much depends upon available space and service, upon the season of the year, and upon whether a "sit-down" or "buffet" lunch is de sired. For the former, if the weather is warm, a good outline would be the following: Chilled consomme or fruit cocktail; chicken, or similarly substan tial salad, with bread and butter sand wiches, or a Jellied meat dish of some dainty kind, with a light salad and rolls or sandwiches; fancy ices and cake; bonbons and coffee. A fruit punch or lemonade might also be served. If something simpler is de sired, serve a dainty salad with deli cately prepared sandwiches, and a pretty ice, with cake or wafers. Or the frozen dish alone, with small fancy cakes, and the bride's cake might be enough, with a good fruit punch. For warm weather, the combination of fresh fruits, such as strawberries, red raspberries, peaches, ojr cantcloupe, with some harmoniously flavored sher bet or ice cream, in tall glasses, would be both pretty and refreshing. Salted almonds, crystallized mint leaves, or green and white mint bonbons might be passed if liked. The chief thing is to avoid having too complicated a menu for the amount of service available, and to have each Item perfect of Its kind and daintily served. PORTLAND. Or.. March 14. Plea?e give recipe for boiled salad dreMnK. MRS. J. W. C- The following is a useful formula but must, of course, be slightly modified according to the salad material used. It combines well with whipped cream: One teaspoon salt. two teaspoons mustard (omit for fruit salads), one tablespoon sugar, a few grains cayenne, one tablespoon flour, one and a half tablespoons butter, two etrg yolks, three-fourths cup milk, one-fourth cup vinegar or lemon juice, a few grains cayenne. Cook in double boiler (do not boil) like a custard or lemon-pie fill ing. I must again remind inquirers that I cannot give recipes or cooking les sons over the telephone, though I am always glad to answer questions of general, interest addressed to this department. EVERYBODY CAN HAVE BEAUTIFUL J-l HAlK NUW, and they don t have to wait weeks and months (or results either. You will notice marked improvement after the very first application. Danderine is quickly and thoroughly absorbed by the scalp and the hair soon shows the effects of its wonderfully ex hilarating and life-producing qualities. It is pleasant and sasy to use simply apply it to the scalp and hair once day until the bair begins to grow, then two or three times a week till f desired results are obtained. Grows Hair and we can PROVE IT! A lady from California writes in substance as follows: I have beenustngr roiir wonder ful hair tonic for several months vad at last lam now bleneed with -wonderful suit of hair t bat meas ure over 4S Inches In length ; the braid la over 8 Inches around. Another from New Jersey: After 'using sixth bottle I am happy to say that T have as nice a head of hair as anyone la New Jersey. This Great Hair-Grow Ing Remedy can now be bad at all druggists in three sizes 25c, 50c and $1.00 per bottle. Pro a To show how quickly I BO Danderine acta, we will send a large sample free hy return mail to anyone who sends this free coupon to the Knowlten Dandariaa Cs., Chicago, wlthtbelrnatne and address and 10c in silver or stamps to par pos tape. Cut This Out V - -jC f I t ' . ' - f ; a I