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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Nov. 7, 1909)
THE SUNDAY OREGOMAX. .PORTLAND, NOVEMBER 7, 1909. V- ; . r ' : : : : 1 CORRESPONDENCE PAGE OF FASHION'S AND BEAUTY FASHION PEMANDS ODD GOWNS AND COATS THERE is no possibility of escap ing the long-threatened danger oversklrts are upon us. "Tonic draperies" they are called for sake of novelty, but all the same they are, to a great extent, the same little apron things that celebrated the day of the pinback. When they are' loose, a they are sometime?, they accompany the gown that fal!s upon the floor and show definitely that they hang from the shouM'-r. tn which event they seem first coumuk to the polonaise of long go. Keshrew me. there ic no escape fro.n -th'-se fantastic hangings, for when you so forth and try to buy a frock wftho.it one. even to your own iogr-triil eye It is a failure. You ' arc. perforce, compelled to be rlraperies somehow, or else be resigned to hear the strong-minded look of plain effects. If you have a grain of fem ininity, you turn your back on good sense hu.1 give your marriage ring to th thing everybody is. buying. Tliis is admission that some of the drapeii-s are lovely in truth, on a slim, graceful woman they are little short of adorable, especially when thy hang from the shoulders with the pointed bottoms and scantiness ,of ;reek tnnhs. And here and there, to the mind alive to economical possi bilities, they give admirable sugges tions as to how to make-two old frocks over into one. With the gracious even ing and house dresses this hint to the j home sewer Is at. times very pia.ui. iur you can se with half an eye that your old blue silk dance frock, with careful seaming, will made a slip Just like .that, and that the good breadths left from the'wide spangled or beaded net dress -would do for the tunic. With medium dress the gown that must trot forth into the street, or not he too fine for you to set the table when you have it on the upper drapery is sometimes so smartly evolved that you are persuaded It Is actually sensible. Costumes composed of a jersey-top garment and a modish short-kilfd skirt are much to the fore for youthful wearers and walking pur poses, and even these are made to sug gest sometimes a faint relationship to ihe draped models. With coats Karne Fashion Is entirely sensible, and the most rewarding of the many long and admirable models is by all odds the one built on princess lines, this giving, with its perfect cut and fit. the look of a coat and gown In one. Such styles are displayed for all ages, and if the' models are pretty on slim, youthful figures, they are as pretty and disguising for stouter and older ones. She who has taken on more pounds than the laws of Fashion allow iiad better look to one of these coats for her salvation, for they seem to shave oft bulges at bust and hips with incredible ease. A Russian turban, or a stiff walking hat turned up sharply at the left and trimmed in tailored manner, are correct and be coming headpieces for such coats. The woman who looks to her own nedle and ten clever fingers for most of her prety things, and those of her ' daughters, will, find several of the new fashion ideals set forth in the models illustrated this week. Figure A. This costume, which' dis plays a phase of the prevailing over skirt malady, is in two pieces, a pleated skirt with a hip drapery, and what Is often called a "folded bodice.". The skirt is built upon a plain hip yoke. In order that the over-shirred piece at the hips may lie as flatly as possible. The finish at the waist line is left loose, so that when the two pieces are together the drapery simu lates a single piece. The draped bodice. Is built upon a fitted foundation and shows a guimpe of all -over lace and a tucked vest front. The bordering used is made by hnnd :ind is of velvet and silk. Cashmere, veiling or-a simple silk or lelnlne are all feasible for such a cos tume, which Jh more for house pur poses than outdoor., though a long coat would render it entirely fit for street wear. As to the trimming, let me tell you that a bias band of silk, the color of the gown, bordered on each Mc with a row of narrow velvet rib bon, would be quite as effective as the elaborate trimming- I Illustrated. With a plain colored wool, a narrow flowered ribbon could also be used. Kigure B. A plain Jersey wool in lark biue. and a fancy wool goods in a pretty blue and gray check, are the materials of this get-up. which, by the wav. is called a college dress. The style has been copied for many young schoolgirls, one clever mother devising the scheme of using a ready-made sweater for the top garment, and trimming the bottom with the skirt material, turning it up as pictured. W oven materials especially designed for such jersey-like bodices are to be found everywhere, and It is sometimes possible to pick up a sweater with the illustrated under - arm buttoning. The lersev musical ways be plain and the skirt pleated, as here, for the col lege cress to be entirely smart, and where the girl can wear brilliant colors the effect is prettier. For prac-. ttcal school use 1 would suggest a kilted skirt of smooth serge or panama in dark blue, and a ready-made gray sweater, whose bottom and sleeves could be turned up and fastened with large blue buttons. Figure C. Behold the princess coat In one of the most charming models to be had. and in the rough dfagpnal coat ing used for such garments. The un broken front panels and the single back Social Amenities THIS is the moment when all the I young couples who last .month took j upon themselves the vows of matrimony must make their first social moves' iu their little world. " Is generally acknowledged that the honeymoon belongs entirely to the newly-wed. so during ' this period of Isolation few persons expect acknowl edgement of the various pretty, pres ents which have been sent by them. But the Instant the pair have left their retreat, whatever it may have been, the least little gift that has" come to them must be celebrated by an appreciative letter to the sender. These letters both the husband and wife may write. Kit the word WK must bo used always Instead" of I "We ate delighted with your charming gift." etc. For though I he pisonts are presented to the nna. trie husNaud shares the honor of them. T:.en. too. as soon as the new home Las been put in order, cards must be sent to nil friends and valued ac quaintances. The bride waits to be called upon before paying any visits, and If sh caooses an afternoon for her "day." she will send only her own curd out. with the following words written at the lower left-hand corner: "Thursday". 4 to s P. MV' Rut one ren;ng in tl'e week must be given, up to the reception of the men folks whose biisiprss duties debar them from . the day call, and thn the envelopes' sent forth must contain the husband's card as wIL With the afternoon visitors one of this coat are fhe earmarks of Its correctness, for If your coat lines are cut in half at other points, before and aft, you must be without a cross ing seam. The coatings used for any wrap which presents the skirt pleats here shown must naturally be of a sort suited to the model--of medium light ness, that is. and with not too much FIGURE B. shagginess of surface; for the rough, shaggy weave has all but entirely ousted plain cloths for long coats. Rough wools of a decidedly soft finish are the favorite coatings, and in these the mixtures of red and brown are thought very swagger. As a general thing only good stitching and well made buttons trim the coats, but, of course, there are no objections to velvet or silk or satin for the collars and cuffs and Mr bands. . for Newly -Wed it is correct to offer some? light re freshment. . Tea and tittle fancy cakes or thin bread and butter are most fre quently served. With the night visitors cake and coffee or wine are expected, tiny sections jT the biide yke" being doled ,out with small cups -of coffee or small glasses of sweet wine as long as the csko lasts. It is not usual to limit the hours for visits with the cards sent for the even ly at home, but if liked they might also bear a word to the effect that Mrs. Newly-Wed receives from 8 to 10 P. M. But when writing-any hour upon a card lemember that the word mustbe "Writ ten out and not PlAt down In numerals. ' A week softer these visits the married pair return them all.- and very soon after that cards are sent -forth for the little suppers or dinners the new household decides to give. A week after these visits the married pair return them all. and very soon after that cards are sent forth for the little suppers or dinners the new household decides to-give. . These last courtesies, though not ob ligatory, are always supposed to be extended, especially to- the givers of presents, unless, of couise, the sender happens to be merely a business ac quaintance of the husband's, in which case a pretty note from lheywlfe is enough, though even that may be omitted without Indelicacy when an utter stranger is concerned. The Invitation to the t:pper or din ner is written by the wife and sent one Figure D. , This pretty little- figure with loose coat and soft hat with strings, shows one stylish and not too expensive way to dress a young child tor the street. The Httle coat is In three pieces, a plain back and two side fronts, and it Is made of a rough wool trimmed with velvet. The felt hat matches the deep and yet soft brown of the trimming, and its ribbon deck- Ings are in the paler brown of the coat stuff. With a pale blue coat in this shape, and a felt hat In the same tint with velvet ribbons, and blue uppers to her little boots, a small maid of four would be gotten up like a princess. It is only the "finger child, however, who Is allowed these pale colors The girl who hi;s reached five would be put In smoke grav, dark blue or brown. MARY DEAN. week before the event,, though the hus band may very properly invite his dearest bachelor friend by word of mouth. For the wedded pair to call their Invitation over the telephone to another married ciuple they knew be fore nvarrlage only as agreeable ac quaintances would be the height of Sad taste. The dignity of the new situation' requires a written invitation again WE is necessary the hour for the f unetion'must be plainly set forth, and both husband and wife be fully prepared to receive the guests quite 10 minifies before they arrive. As everybody whp comes will be pre pared to take stock as to how Cupid is making out In the new home, it goes without saying that the newly-weds must be on their best behavior. But any 'publie endearment would be as out of place as a lover's tiff, for all the visitors want rs a moment that flows easily a little merry talk, a bite, a sup of some sort, and then a cheer ful good bye. In short, they want to go home feeling that the new house Is foundetl on the best basis common sense, decorum and affection too deep for the foolish fiddle-faddle of holding hands and such nonsense. ' It would be well at such times, too. for the young wife so to arrange things beforehand that lier housekeeping will go off without a hitch: for an awkward maid, or a public reproof- from the young mistress, w-ould. embarrass not only the guests but tin? "boss" f the little nest, which needs To be so peace ful, and perhaps point the way for the domestic hitch. In truthi there is noth ing like beginning right, and since company Oielps ynu to fo it. -have aril the guests you can possibly have in November and so learn the art of being a gracious and easy hostess and good housekeeper. But it is upon her afternoon at home that the young wife must depend largely to return her obligations, and this she may make the simplest or grandest function. By 3 o'clock the mistress of the occasion, dressed it. her most elegant afternoon frock, is in her drawing-room leady to greet the old lady or dear old gentleman w-ho may possibly forget the hour and come early. If there is only one servant, thts personase.-riressed in a neat black dress, a white apron and cap, and hold ing a card tray in her Jeft hand, opens the doer when the bell rings. (Upon the tray the visitor drops his or her card and 'is at once" ushered into the reception room, where, without remov ing wiaps or gloves, the caller accepts the refreshments offered and goes away after a half hour of pleasant talk, in terspersed, of course, with compliments and good wishes for the new home. If the husband is prosperous enough to have a butler, -he attends the door? wearing full evening livery the while, but when the callers-shows no sign of offering- her card, he does not thrust his tray under her nose, but, like the well-trained machine that he is, leads the way to the drawing-room, respect fully asking the guest's name as he draws back the curtain for her to enter. He then announces the caller,' and when each one departs he opens the street door, and in the event of bad weather accompanies a lady to her car riage, or else unfurls her umbrella for her before she leaves the door. The first duty of the hostess with he afternoon guests is to step for ward and shake hands with every one who enters. It Is not well bred for her to enter into confidential talks with any one individual, and so neglect her I other guests: and through all the aft- j ernoon she must remain in sight of the j doorway, so that nobody shall have the Amla rra sim.nl nf "jnlprinfl- without a i 6 ccnnB. If guests arrive who are unknown to the majority of the company, they are at once presented to the nearest persons, and during their stay to every other guest in the joom. With her adleux to her guests the hostess may say prettily. "It was so "hice of you to, come. Miss Brown," or she may say to the accidental masculine guest, "Well, it has been delightful to have one man at least," and so on. Gracious utterances, an easy manner, and a neat little home are the young hostess' chief stock in trade. If she shows her guests that she is glad to see them and behaves as If being mar ried and a housekeeper Is an every day thing, all will go well with her socially. PRUDENCE STANDISH. Woman, the Marriage-Maker. Atchitson Globe. We have noticed that when a woman says a certain man is begging her to marry him. we eventually printthe wed ding notice; she always gives in. About 79 per cent of Russia's Inhabitants are illiterate. j , ' 11 III- FIGURE D. I t FIGURE C. J ..... T I --------- - if ARMLESS WASHES FOR ILL-TREATED HAIR POOR heads whose locks have been ruined by bleaching with- peroxide; heads whose crowning giory has lost Its luster through gross neglect or severe Illness; heads whose owners are to be classed among the anaemics, all come to me in numerous numbers for help. And almost invariably every head demands at the outset a "harmless dye" to aid in the restoration of, its former crown of glory. '' There are certain pastes and washes which are harmless in their effect, and which fashion and society sanction when the urgency is great when a- -woman recovers from her peroxide madness and wishes to get back as speedily as pos sible the natural color and luster of her hair, or when one's hair has suffered greatly during a siege of illness. Yet even wlren the use of a harmless paste or wash is permissible, its use should invariably be preceded by the natural methods for restoring hair which I wrote about last week. Only then will the paste or wash have the effect desired. But though society allows one to use a hair wash or coloring fluid when the case is one of. such urgency that to do without it means being an actual fright, society frowns down upon the woman whose hair is dyed in season and out. Not only that. The woman who per sists In dyeing her hair when she has no good reason therefor is frequently pun ished by having her hair go off into all sorts of unexpected colors, until to say one has a pink or purple hair is no exag geration. "Painted hair" Is a phrase frequently used in Paris to describe these woebegone heads, and though they are sometimes owed by persons otherwise entirely conventional, they yet have a look of depravity. Tou say to yourself when you se one, "Thank goodness, I'm not a fool." But now to the pleasant side the simple washes and herbs and nuts which can be used to improve looks to some extent, and not really harm the hair, when one is trying to rid herself of her peroxide foolishness, or waiting for na ture to resume its full task of keeping the hair beautiful. Of course, it is un derstood that in every case the natural color of the hair should be striven for when .using these simple "beautiners. . Henna and ease tea are considered by persons of authority in such matters to be the least harmful coloring mediums which can be employed upon the "hair. When combined with green tea, sage is, in fact, beneficial to the hair, while the henna flowers may be made to lend a tinge of burnished gold, or to produce locks of midnight blackness, or to effect a soft and charming brown. In Oriental lands the blue-black locks so much admired are accomplished by spreading a paste of powdered hina all over the hair from the roots to the tips. This ic left on for a half hour or longer J FIGURE A. t according to the darkness of the hair and is then wasted off. when the hair is found to be a dark'red. After this a paste of Indigo is applied, which is left on from an hour and a half to throe hours'. After tho indigo has been washed of the hair is well oiled, and the burn ished blackness striven for is seen in all Us glory. The henna paste is made by reduclng the dried flowers to a fine powder and miffing it with hot water. A clear brown color may also -be ob tained with henna and indigo. This re quires that one part of henna and three e K mivaA into n nnste. parts OJ. JUUlfiV i'3 hhai-v i It is then applied all over the hair and left on "according to me uamiira mo shade desired one hour would make a shade far lighter than three. The pplenqio. i man reu. winm H tuaiBKM '1 1 1 1 1 1 III11MII 1 1 1 fmm says: You don't have to buy any of the ED. PINAUD TOILET PREPARATIONS until you havevfirst TESTED them, Therefore, this great sample offer is made to the readers of .this paper. We will send you a 10c. trial bottle of ED. PII1AUD S H (EAU DC QUININE) FOR 4 CTS. IN STAMPS. Write to our American offices to-day. Try the sample if you like it, buy a 50c. or $I.OO bottle from any drug or department store. Use ED. PINAUD'S Hair Tonic faithfully for one month and watch the results. No other hair preparation equals ED. PINAUD'S for removing dandruff, promoting hair growth and making the. hair soft, luxuriant and brilliant. Send 4 cts. to-day for the 'sample, to our American offices, PARFIMRIE ED. PINAUD, cept. 26 ED. PINAUD BLDG. eternally fashionable tint for hair, is made with this formula: Powdered henna.. pound Acetic a$ld 4 drachms White honey .- 4 drachms Powdered rhubarb 4 drachms These ingredients aro all blended to gether and hot water sufficient to make a paste added. ' It is applied as- pre viously directed, and after the bair lias been thoroughly plastered oijtr with it the strarlus may bo fastened upon tho head to keep them ont of the way. After two hours the paste is washed-off with several waters softened with soda or ammonia and the hair 4s then dried in the sun. Hair which is badly streaked may need several applications of tho henna before the color la even and good, and, of course, dark hair will respond with a richer ilntxthan blond. Sage tea has been used to darken grny hair since the world began, one might sa for certainly there is no wash more old-fashioned. It is not always 'eftiea ciorji for 'hair In every condition, but sometimes it nets extremely well, and though it must be used often, it is so harmless and cheap- that it may be. offered as the home's sovereign remedy in the way of an artifical coloring fluid. A lotion made of two ounces of fresh ly dried garden sage and two ounces of green tea will make a very dark brown or black stain according to color of hair and be beneficial, as well, as a tonic. Put the sage and the tea :n an iron pnl which can be closely covered, pour over them three quarts of water and let the pot simmer till only one quart of. the liquid is left. Then a tier tno liquid has teen cold 24 hours strain and hottle it. Apply this like any dye. after the bair has been thoroughly shampooed and dried: and ir the steady coloring is desired wet the hair completely every nisi.t with it, usii.g a small brush dipped in the fluid; and massaging the scalp beforehand for ten minutes. As this tea stains like' ar.y dye precaution must ba taken for protecting tile pillow. A decoction of walnut leaves will also color tho hair a rich reddish brown and act as a'strengt'nenin.T tonic. With th?o the msshd green shell may be put, with one-sixth of the samo quantity of alco hol, a little taDle suit and a few poundi d cloves. Let all digest soak together for two weeks with occasional agitation, then pour off the clear fluid, strain and. if necessary, filter. But since wal nut juice is the most obstinate of all stains -when it reaches the. skin, be sure you smear your hands with vaseline be fore using it. I have told how black, brown and golden effects may bo secured, but the results will not be- the same in every case, and to produce the ons desired it Is well to try a small piece of hair at a time this could be from tie false switch or a tiny cut oft lock.- For the rest. the. success of any tinging matter depends on first freeing the hair thoroughly of dust and oil with a good shampoo and ( then drying it before the color is used. Again, a hon e-made . eoloring may sometimes require to bo followed by a "mordant" something to set the dye and if the tinting Is done on a bright morning, and the hair at once exposed to the sunshine, it will take the dyo more frely than if a dull afternoon wcn chosen for the task When the dya has taken well, a little olive oil may bn rubbed into the scalp, as this helps to preserve the hair and give it a more nt ural effect. , daemon Juice and vinegar, diluted with equal parts of water, is sometimes used eel- a re.fractorv dye. and like every thing elso this Is put on when the hair , s v 'rrTj-ir!T?TM-G7 MARTflN'. is ary . n-iin.""-". Original Dinner Menus for One Week. BY LILIAN TIN'GLH. Tuesday. Cream of Celery Soups ' Beefsteak with Bernaise Bauca Potato Crescents Scallcped Onlona Tapioca Puddinir with Apple- Jelly Co (Tee. j Wednesday. Mock Bisque Soup Boost ter or Shoulder of Mutton. Slultea Steamed Rice Buttered Turnips Baked Apples and Cream Coffee. Thursday. Mutton Broth with Rtc Ham with Lima Bans Baked Sweet Potatoes Apple and Celery Salad Ginger Fuddtn , Coffee, rriaay. Cream of Clams Baked Fish Savory Oatmeal Dressing Cream carrots Potato Balls Cabbaea and Celery Salad Brown Betty with Maple Syrup Cotfee. i ' Saturday. New England Boiled Dinner Co-ued Beef potatoes Cabbage Turnips Beets Squash Pie Coffee. Sunday. Celery Soup Roast Berf Brown Potatoes HorshradHh Yorkshire Purtdtna Steamed Squash Chicory Salad Jell'ed Fruits Whipped Cream Wafers Coffee. Monday. Cream of Corn Soup Boast Beef. Cold or Reheated in Sauce Stewed Celerv Scalloped Potatoes Nut and Apple Salad Barley- Cream Puddlns Coffee. H AIR TO ' NEW YORK ff 'III Hh, IBPWWBKBHBggl 110