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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (April 11, 1909)
1 THE SUNDAY OREGON! AX, PORTLAND, APRIL 19)9. EASTER PARADE SETS STYLES NKW TORK has long bloomed frith Spring styles, but the costumes which will air themselves on Fifth avenue today will demonstrate the ones likely to rule. At the various private places where fine garments are turned out the- choicest cuts for el-Kant gown lean largely to empire effects. With these charming draperies for the delightfully Wimp designs are scarcely more than coverings for graceful figures-pale tints accommodate themselves. Tones In tan ranging from a brown to a salmon tinge' are displayed by a number of frocks! The grays, though lighter, are still ,Ug. t1ve of the smoke tint worn In the winter, and the gamuts In violet and J"" Jnclude too many shades to. be Indeed. It looks as If every color irl very change of which It U e,e worn, though a species of sere iT J Fashion's window presents the look "" rainbow. Which meJTthal "hf0,0r"ru1- tT,"y ra "ever stri ss If brilliant hues were veiled with a aley.yhr had pt meelves pale somehow. m truth, all of rame Jm. iea.,,,J,l0T.tte, l6an t0 th0 t1mental "on' 11 1s Pleasing quality and zrs 8uited to eie" l1! ,tl; "lod" chosen. All empire IdE. . ,V torx t,,re In finish, the She itn"! n,d Clths used hanging with the limp suppleness of chiffon. A high st1ny gloss Is a luxurious feature of rnany of these materials, and with such rich textures go handsome laces and ?.n .kTr"1;"' of "P"b sort. w,.10.0' a e-green empire dress, which showed the Inevitable lace ruimpe and undersleeves was a passe menterie which Imitated the raised hunches end foliage of small white grapes. The dress Itself of chiffon over a up of sage-green messallne. Actual and simulated princess effects are countless, these permitting more rimming of the skirt portions than the TrJt "Jld.eIl aI,OW- U ta "'"y rarely. In fact, that the skirt of an empire dress as trimmed, the general preference being for the plain effect, which Increases the elaborateness of the bodice and accentu ates the height of the wearer. To look tall and slim. If not truly so. Is Fashion's first requirement, and after that it, must beconfessed. magnificence rules the hour Splendid passementeries of this grape sort and others In contrasting silk, or In the tone of the gown, are the newest trimmings. Narrow-ball fringes and plain si IK ones of considerable depth also have enormous vogue, while soutache, straight braid and velvet and ribbon bands all Have their usual place. For practical use the suits with beetle tack coats are very smart. These are made In plain cloth and ribbed, striped mottled and checked wools, and though a number of suclusults show soutache or wider braid trimmings, when well made and set off with suitable accessories, thev ZJZ . '?Var,iably """arter when onlv stitched. The most dashing of these suit dresses may fit Itself to many semi-dress occasions. If the waist worn under the coat Is of a pretty net or silk, and hat. shoes and gloves are of immaculate trlm ness. Therein, after all. lies the real essence f good dressing nowadays. One's whole toilette must bo In harmonious keeping er suitably bolstered, and show, besides that iiewnees once so seorned. A run down heel or ripped braid or shower dimmed head-ploce win wreck the finest costume ever turned out. and, knowing this, careful dressers choose to have many pairs of fairly inexpensive gloves and boots and several hats, rather than a short supply of expensive things. This week's designs show four of the jew season's smartest models. A verv beautiful gown, which may be made of cloth, veiling or of Rnr of the nulnfirolls oft silks on the market. Is shown In ig A. The model for this was In one of the shudes of old blue, with trimmings of soutache braid and silk fringe, and a chemisette of net In a matching color overlaid with gold. The blouse is made oyer a smoothly fitting lining, and the hlgh-walsted skirt can be cut in either two or three pieces, as It Is made without front seam. Many departures from the original sug gestions are possible. For instance, the chemisette could he of white lace, and Instead of the gold which overlays It a passementerlo coulu be used, or else the lace. Jen to show, if the chemisette is of whole lsce. with any color for the rest of the gown, there could be bodice touches of coral, bright green or Chinese blue, which is a highly decorative tint for trimming. But as to the gold. Bullion garnitures, when the quantity Is restrained, are very much the vogue, and there Is scarcely a dreamy French frock whose corsage, at lrast. docs not show the glint of gilt A ne. ktle made of gold braid, finished with -" ' ' xiireaus and beads, trims FIGURE D. the throat of ' many a r beautiful French gown. - - 4 - -- . . A typical Spring walking suit - is - repre sented In Fig. B. This dashing little get up, whose smart hat Is In perfect keep ing. Is made of ribbed wool suiting In one of tbe wistaria shades. A- semi- - FIGURE empire effect is given by "the cut -of the skirt, but it is the cutaawy coat with its bird-like tall which gives this suit the Spring dash. It could be made In any stout wool material which-does not show big figures, but in a black and. white men's cloth, with a white Panama hat trimmed with black velvet and suited to many quite smart occasions. The little frocks of empire - genre are shown In Figs. C and D. Foulard silk In tones of faded violets achieves Fig. C, whose short waist-line Is covered by a soft girdle of plain violet silk. But with a violet, pale grav or pale brown sdlk the girdle could be of dim green, and if this and the little were or ciurron tnere would be a gain in elegance. The chemisette FLOWER LUNCHEONS A SMART fad nowadays for the entertainment of one's -woman friends Is to give a flower luncheon In the week following Easter. The buds and blooms most typical of Spring are chosen for table decorations and the colors of these are carried out In other ornaments, and as much as possible In some dish served. For Instance, red tulips, especially those In the tints which hold yellow, are flanked by tomato and shrimp dishes, poached exgs witft apricot and a salad, perhaps, of blood oranges. If the flowers are white, the decorations may. match the delicate green of leaves and toothsome tidbits made of white potatoes, mushrooms, celery, white ices or creams and angel cake. Effects as ravishing as simple can be had with decorations and favors of w ild flowers In little baskets. -The pur ple wood vioitrts, which are in -abundance in manv districts at this, time, blood-root and hepatica are some of the sweetest (lowtrs used. Wild flowers are had for the pluck ing if one lives near their- gentle homes and what could be more charm ing than to celebrate the return to life and joy with tables full ot the darlings nature showers -upon us! A daffodil luncheon the very fame yellow jonquils w hich grow . in Wouc village or country garden Is one of the most, radiant and happy which can be given. Where one can afford the extravagance, decorations for this be gin with a table cover of yellow sateen In daffodil tint. The white table cover must have a lace border to show this and . sight undersleeves are of - all-over lace in a deep cream, and if elegant ma terial is used for the gown-the separate gulmpe which these form, could be left off for an. evening occasion. Sage .green pongee with soutache 'and embroideries In-tho-same shade and a. lit- A. Jt r -black satin are displayed in However, this smart design is also suit able for Cloth. . Silk, and tin .n . . " OWULl V-Cll- lngs. and the cut adapts itself to both practical and smart-street use. With any color or material, the little vert which overlies the tucked white guimpes should be of black satin v.AM . ... iwi wmie not quite as modish as. formerly for entire rnn-nc V.1 . . . i. i .,,11 . . . , ., 1 alllJ au empnasizing note Finally, let me draw your attention tne lightness of all the .i, t,.,.. your new sleeves like them and your old o .cr i.j ,ook as nearly like them as possible 1(t ,,nnn . i i . sleeves depends all the smartness of the J1AK1 DEAN ie "e11 as centerpiece & "mi a yeuow loundatloi ot its own. l r th , v. i . , . .. , vi nana some mahotrany. have it polished for -..v. v o u ii. ana piace each guest' plate, upon a round nf io.A i - " - 1 . ' 1 ' HlLTl U1U- ery-trimmea linen over another of the i.wc pretty unen pieces, as Well as the fpntnrnin x.ii match them, constitute cover enough for ....... lairig, Kaffodils calllnir fnr .n . Sh..W ff the stems and slim leav to ....ii are Himost the most beauti iful , , "l inem. nave this of glass all the loveliness m Q x that place the vase in the" center of table. Oilt-edtred china and the . . t ivn nuie green or vellow ,. pale - - -" - -, vi o t;h piain white, is suitable choice for the service Aer ,th' P'ates are laid, fold the napkins . in the form of cones, flu them with three, or six daffodils tied in a. bunch with a bit of green ribbon, and place a cone across each plate. The flowers in them are the favors for the guests, each of whom pins her bouquet on her corsage with a green-headed pin which is thrust Into the napkin If artificial light Is desired, candies should be in yellow crockery or brass stands, with the. light softened with shades of yellow paper. Four or six guests would be enough for a gay and yet Intimate moment and upon little ; cards, hand painted wuh a stalk of daffodil, the names of each guest could he printed in pale green, with capital letters of yellow All good stationers sell blank guest cards with very pretty flower decor ations, so these could also be bought .and the name written in ink. However since the compliment lies In the whole arrangements hinir v. , 1 diwork. It Is . far more graceful to get uphe cards oneself, even If a line boYaer In the two colors, yellow and green. Is the only degree of art pos sible. The name card, placed beside the- plate. Indicates where each guest Is to sit. ., A delicate and appetising menu for a daffodil luncheon could be as fol lows: , Clear . chicken broth. -. Parsley omelette. or sweetbreads Vth green peas. Tenderloin' steak with mushrooms. fin. r, ra coloH Found cake, floating Island, black cof- lee ana cream cheese. Besides these fairly simple dishes. lere could bn vnrlnii inro ri'nAi.... the such as olives and salted almonds, and anv VArptahlAR . llVfl A- ..v. . ' . . ... V, l,lLa.U,t VI meat. Broiled -chicken, squabs or chops , i. . i , . . .. . uuvo ui pjdco oi xne steak and Instead of the entrees here suggested a seasonable fish with a, white sauce substituted. But a word about my own menu: E verv hod v -whn .i - smart luncheon must know that chick en broth, to be good, must be of a clear amber and - without grease. They also know that "floating Island," which the French call oeufs a la nelgs (eggs with snow) is made of a boiled egg custard poured over sponge cake, with the dish ornamented with billows made uejuen wanes or tne egg. Since the Oransre a&lnrl 1 n r. .Ammn. v 1 1 1 describe .its making. t j-nc oranges must be of the light golden variety, and . not the red sort which would do for a red tulip lunch eon. 'Wash them carefuly and after polishing, the skins cut them in round thm slices, retaining the skin. Lay these in a e-laast howl Rncinbiin. - . v v dered sugar .between every layer of elites; arencn tne whole at last with Booa Drana ot Jamaica, rum and add saueeze or twn nf lamA 4 . . . . 1 . . Is liked. A dish mads of grapefruit. '" oi "in puiiea apart and set in a nest Of tender e-reen IdI tiiA. u also be capital and refreshing for the salad course. Only olive oil should be on mis, as. tne iruit Is spoiled by condiments. vV Iner'. somebody' asks. 'Well, at a Woman's llmhAnm 4 in the case of large and formal affairs, it is, not thought good taste to serve wine. But a light punch of ( fruit and some delicate wine may pass muster, while what is known as a "fruit cup." a beverage made entirely of- various uu tmwea ice . ana water would be the ohonn. . . . J . . w . v. ucol urea beverage of all. PRUDENCE STANDISH. Women Learn to Use Gas TV NEW way of earning money has been opened to women by the gas companies of the large cities. They are oiic to private houses and apartments to explain the use of the gas range and Of thn TTi utap with I. i. : . . . , - ...... uujwi ox teacning economy In the 'use of gas. -According - vi. uKao incuers it is a position requiring tact as - well as the special knowledge they are paid to diffuse. "It is always possible to make a woman feel 'humiliated when you call to show her how to do what she thinks she knows how to do herself," one of the gas emis saries is quoted in Popular Mechanics as saying about her work. "Possibly she has complained to the gas company that the stove will not. work properly. "The reason may be that she does not know how to use It, but It would not do to tell her so. So we proceed to find out the reason and do it so adroitly that she still believes the fault was With the range and not with her, but at the same time has learned enough to make cer tain that there will be no future com plaint." Where the idea of this new department originated Is not known. Chicago has Jhst claimed the credit of it, but the gas companies of Philadelphia, New Tork and other cities also have such departments and advance counter claims. In Philadelphia the staff of -women go from door to door or make special visits if called. Among the bits of Information handed out by the teacher is the declaration that many women make the mistake of trying to light the gas at the same time they turn it on. A second or two should be allowed to elapse before applying the match so that the gas can expel the air. This makes the burners work better and saves gas. Another economical expedient to which many women pay little attention is the simmering burner. When a saucepan no longer needs the entire heat of a burner it is only necessary to transfer it to the simmering burner to leave the larger .burner free for something else and to save gas. Blackmailed. Gobsa Golde regarded the dismissed chauffeur reproachfully. "Give you a reference?" he cried. "Whv my man, what could I say?" The chauffeur smiled a significant smile. ou might say, sir," he murmured. that I know lots more than vour wife does about the champagne suppers that you motor to at . country road-houses almost nightly." FIGURE C. SUNSHINE DEAR me. -what a lot of . letters, all telling very nearly the same , thing bad complexions! Telling of ' chem ical bleaches and poisonous cosmetics" all vowing the writers have -tried everything on earth, and yet not one hinting' of sun baths and rain water! - Can a rose bud and bloom ln;a.' cellar? FICUREB. Can a lily, which is symbolical 1 of the fairest complexion, finds its pure white within a choking pot in a stuffy north parlor? May either one of them live long with only chemical baths, showers of duet and smears of grease? No. tndeed! So if you want things changed, as to your complexion you must begin with soft water and sunshine straight, warm. Southern sunshine at that. You must Beautiful and Grotesque yw" Li" of the Spring hats are not beau JL tiful. There are some which perch upon the head like grotesque birds; there are some which all but swallow heads entirely, like bread bowls over or anges, or candle snuffers over ,a farth ing dip. Many there be among the wear ers who have bought too soon and un wisely, and since illustration, is the best lesson, those who have still to buy will profit by the mistake of others. No one style can be exploited , as the right thing. The right hat is worn by the right woman, and If she is young and handsome and otherwise well dressed, she will look as if she has been crowned by angels. Her hat will not seem a thins apart, hut a part of her, a crown into which her well-coiffed head will go with comfort, a brim which half conceals and half reveals her loveliness. Before trying on a hat arrange your balr as If for the most Important function of your life. When trying ; It., remain seated, and see that a triple glass will show every side and curve of the struc ture. The entirely satisfactory hat. is the one that is kindly to the nape of the neck, the ears and jaws, as well as to the full face. Be Inflexible with the things that fail in these artful ways, otherwise the first tired day, your accidental reflection in some street mirror will awake In you a murderous feeling for. all millinery. Hats which go charmingly with walk ing gowns, and In some elaborate cases equally well with empire costumes, are the mushroom shapes. These are trimmed smoothly and widely, generally with soft scarfs around the crown, or what stands for It. and with a side or front ornament In the shape of a great buckle, a tightly massed knot of Sowers or some eocentrio cabochon of Jet. straw or painted metal. One or two mushroom hats had for his saucer-big ornament for they are enor mous a great painted button 'which was sewn on through a button eye. Some of tlie most eccentric " of the mushroom shapes, those-- with - high AS A BE AUTIFIER make arrangements for the unfailing sup Ply of the rain water barrel, and if, that is impossible, you must buy rain water of some city genius who has built up a trade through this- necessity to beauty, or should be made to see the need of it through Incessant demand. And after the rain water Is bought. If It stands long in the cask. It must Invariably be filtered " Mini, ui ills put upon tne lace. There 1z nn nolm . . ,, . . .. . ... i v. i. cm in bo neanng. cleansing and beautifying as clean, fresh ram water, -mere is no complexion on earth which ' can keep its bloom and Deauty without life-giving and germ-kill lng sunshine. ror many skin diseases of a serious na-iure. pnygicians order the daily sun crowns and limp brims which hang low ci me lace, are delightful on the right Wearers. These jnm ot I .-, n - . - " t i"". me most simply garnished, a fancy osprey spring- ... " uas iinu novel caoochon, and three ornamental hatpins to match the cabochon, constituting the whole gar niture. The fruit, crop is well represented by wide-brimmed hats. Cherries. . apples currants, gooseberries, pears and plums are all seen on the daring French mil linery and. though the fancy may seem foolish, the fruit-trimmed headpiece Is still very effective. Toques are very big Indeed clumsy, and the modish thing is for them to sit low. down upon the head. Some of the straw toques designed for shirtwaist and other practical accom paniment depend largely, too. on a fan ciful weaving and massing of the straw for ornament. One very effective straw hat seen for shirtwaist use had a puff crown dented in oddly here and there, and a -down-dropping brim with a slight wave in-, the- bottom line. This was trimmed with a crown band of black vel vet, with a limp bow of the same hanging directly over each ear. There Is one very Important require ment for brim hats. They must droop somewhere, even if It Is not all around. Many pretty girls go by with "bowl" or mushroom hats, under which the passer gets only a glimpse of a bridge of a nose, a pretty mouth and a dimpled chin. Such headgear Is full of mystery, but then only the young' and lovely may wear them. For those who have fallen from the 'tree of Touth, and are not yet old enough for bonnets, a medium-sized mushroom or a carefully chosen turban are the only things. Upon the more splendid of the season's hats, such as would be worn with fine toilettes at smart Summer resorts, or to gay hotel dinners In town, gold gauze in dazzling wisps, caught by great golden roses, may trim lace or - drawn tulle shapes. Ostrich feathers of a long and precious sort are also numerous, as well as strange made plume, cock feathers and flowers of all sorts. White camelias or gardenias, used with their green foliage and closely packed, are handsome on turbans. With a knot of this sort, only a little bow or rosette of black velvet ribbon put at the other side, of the hat would be necessary. I f. I , S. M bath, this lasting for quite three hours as a matter of course. If the day is cliillv the patient may sit behind a closed wiii- "' airea room. If it is balmy She must take hei- ,,ni w ...j.. - 1. 1 1 uumoars, ln.Ca, tUrn tiTEt on ch and uiucr 10 ine airect rays so that the heallns- mav b nntfnm. a voui do freckle tan VAn 1 1 ..... . - ui a. iitLirv -i ne skin $hat peels off will leave other cuticle ..w.t, I..-.IUI) , una sre not freckles better than the unsightly comme- oiacKneaas, moth patches a skin o marred And ill tiQt-. .v , ' . .... - 1 J , UDQ IS forever mortified? Rememhei ! . . 1 , . . -- . - mracuiijbH germ, which is the most lnslduous on earth- mav .. -..-.-. us wun. jaipus. a, very dreadful skin rile. i . . v.j ii, -inm germ, and what Is the cure for tubercu- sunsmne, primarily three hours ot direct sunshine kills the most energetlo tuberculosis germ outside of the human lung good food and air. The best pert . , ' i"ct musi De UKen through the stomach, and for the rest It must be m nasnea. aired and sunned. To those who ll-ir. in ,. . . ' . M - 1 1 ---llll.l J J 1 1 I Small towns, a aimnlv ,f l. . . 1 . r -j ' . ii.ou lain EIRT : is easily managed. Many a eltr roof. ! too. is so arranged that one pipe is short; der "it a oucKef standing un- An excellent e..t . ' -- "coping in sraje H ,r'ater e 1,56,1 Vpon th ac ra rouuiuon, is made In this way: Set the cask or barrel on end, take out iif. e"d and at a "Istunee of about one third from tbe hnHftn, . . ... L ii. a. laise pot torn pierced with holes. This shelf is then ' "crea wun a layer or clean small peb bles, over which a quantity of charcoa ... " nvOT or oones and line sand " a . ald to th aeJ" o an Inch. and this 1M than l.w , - " ' -iJ c wnii uioiner layer of clean ehnie . rw. vi. i. - L notner muBt b Placed, pierced also , """ ire-vent me water above rushing out too fast and disturbing the sand, charcoal and pebble bed below. At ' the bottom of the barrel a tap Is placed I to draw off the water as wanted, and ex-1 ?1t h?n tak,n m a new supply of its I beautifying fluid, the rain water barrel must be kept tightly closed. I When usincr the :at- v. . J . uhvu mo lacs or hands have It only a little over blood n. in never coia or boiling hot and for cleansing purposes use a pare hygienic tar or castile soap. Cheap soaps are most harmful to the skin. In fact, it is noor judgment that economises on a face soap , for a tenth of tv.- . ,H" , ------ f. o '-i'i "i on repair- : lng the damage of a bad one will buy a ' -"-f iiaiiu-i i ue woria over tor pur- Always rleaiuA Vi , . i a . ' - . --. n niacin, ana 1 remember that going even one night with, i icniuviug uie aays plaster .of rouge' and POWde.r Ar akVAn V. J . . . .i . ... - - - , . -- - - -'o uubi. Lim.L mere L ,5? ilsla to take 10 aHsvay frm the cwiii ui your complexion. The best face-scrubber is a soft cloth of I fine linen or the ends of old silk under- 1 vests. A hardy skin may stand a rubber; flesh brush, but the sensitive one needs a 1 tender touch, and for skins actually dis- ' eased a camel's hair brush Is sometimes ' necessary. A sponge Is rudn. for since not ' one In a million is properly cleaned, all are nests for germs. KATITERINTq MORTON'. mime. Yale's Hair Tonic FOR CHILDREN " AND ADULTS Antiseptic and Hygienic A Hair Invigorator Just -rr hut Its name Implies. It supplies nourishment the elements of growth, which whi-.n Sbsorbed by the hair, strengthens and beautifies It in- the same way that sap Blorifies the foliage or a tres. Even where the follicles are neemlng-ly dead If the scalp Is managed daily with Mm.' Tale s Hair Tonic a vigorous growth will be produced. It has honestly earned Its tltlu of "the great hair grower it stimulates the most stunted growth and makes the hair magnifllcently healthy and beautiful. By Its use women can provide themselves with a trailing man tle nt hair -woman's natural raiment nor birthright. raiment. Mme. Tale's Walr Tonic Is prl-4 equally by men and women, particularly when the hair begins to weaken or fade Cures baldness, grayness, rpllttlng of the hair, dandruff and all diseases of the hair scalp and beard. One application uaua ly stops hair falling. A nursery requisite; no. mother should neglect to ti.e It for her boys and girls; when the l.aii- la made strong In childhood It re mains proof again! .disease and retains Iff. r youthfulness throughout -M me. Tale's TTalr Tonlo a colorless fragrant, delightful hair dressing: neither Micky, gritty, nor greasy; makes the hair soft, fluffy and glossy. Contains no artificial coloring: would not soil ,S2 lnDiitt..ra,r:.i.re",,rT" r'ftaal color by invigorating the scalp an re-establish-!"5. norrnal circulation and proper dis tribution of the live coloring matter B-autlful hair redeems the plaine.t countenance, and anyone can secure It by using Mme. Tale s Hair Tonic now In three sixes. . Our special price $1.00 size 79c .50 size 39c. .25 size 21c. ' We will give you free a copy of MTn Tale " -Pase hook on Beauty and Physical Culture. Tf yu live JnJi.i,"wn- wrtt u n we will ms-11 you a copy. . Lipman, Wolfe & Co. Owl Cnt-Rate Drug- Dept.