The Sunday Oregonian., March 14, 1909, SECTION FIVE, Page 5, Image 49

THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, rORTLAXD, MARCH 11, 1900,
FAIR AUTOMOBILE ENTHUSIASTS MAY FIND
COMPLETE ARRAY OF FASHIONABLE HINTS
Local Shops Cany an Endless Variety of Modish Coats and Headwear Designed Especialy for Feminine Devoteeso f the Fine Art of
Motoring Some Notable Styles Illustrated.
Fine Gut Glass at Exactly One Half Price
f, - .
II
1 1 ii
i
"With tlie almost endless variety of at
tractive coats and headwear for motoring
tiow shown in the shops to select from.
It is certainly her own fault if the fair
sutomobtle enthusiast does not look -well
In her motoring clothes. The new dis- I
tlays quite yconvincingly demonstrate that
Che becoming and the practical may be
charmingly combined in the motoring
costume although the accomplishment is
not always evident in the appearance of
feminine figures at the wheel.
Not all women motorists have the -trig
neatness which gives the proper smart
ness to an automobile toilette, and while
the quaint and picturesque have some
claim in motoring apparel, it is not every
woman whose personality is made the
more attractive by these elements. It
is the woman who thoroughly under
stands the clever manipulation ofveil or
hood, and the possibilities of color and
Sine, that knows how to render her motor
ing costiime as becoming and attractive
her dancing frock or dinner gown.
Tlios,o Delightful Visions.
Of course one catches glimpses, now
and then, of delightful visions in the
luxurious big cars that roll through the
lly streets, on route to afternoon func
tion or 'evening festivity not remote from
downtown centers; graceful draperies,
llunied hats, fluttering scarfs and veils
of soft, diaphanous stuffs all have place
In these about-town and short country
...mb, uui 11 la uiirerent m ine matter ot
ostumir.g for real motoring, where feath
ers and dainty fripperies would be an
Intolerable nuisance and suffer destruction
In the first bit of spirited speeding.
The new Spring displays In the local
nhops show several varieties of very
Pimple, yet most attractive coats and
hats, bonnet-3 and hoods, designed espe
cially for motor wear. Materials which
are as light in weight, and as effective in
olor cr.d design as they are serviceable
and comfortable have been evolved Anal
ly by the manufacturers. Among the
very smartest of the designs now in
vogue are the peculiar, subdued plaid
patterns. In which several different tones
are io cleverly blended that at a dis
tance the fabric shews only a monotone
effect; then there are other patterns In
plaid, more striking and definite, but still
charmingly harmonious because of the
fkinful choice and combination of color
tones. 'Some of the leading patterns sug
gest the Scotch tartan in their color
schemes, hut the tones are so blended and
softened that one color shades Into
another without sharp line or contrast.
Havana browns, ' warm blues and soft
grays also figure in the smart plaid pat
terns. A soft, yellowish brown, almost in
the topaz class. Is one of the most pop
ular tones for the solid color garments,
and dark, rich greens and warm, wins
reds are also much in vogue.
Tendency Ts Mannish.
The smant cuts continue to be mannish,
and the- tendency is towards even more
severity of design. Fluttering capes have
always been an annoyance to the motor
ist, and everything about the motor coat
is now taut and trim. Of course, many
of the coats have the picture -hoods,
which are to be pulled up over the head
on cool evenings or chill days, and these
garments are not so severely masculine
In cut, but the separate hood is becom
ing mare and more popular, especially in
the showings for Spring and Summer.
Low. close-fitting, simply trimmed
turbans or flat hats have come into al
most universal use for motoring. The
cap was never a success, and it is only
the low-crowned, close-fitting type of
hat that allows comfortable adjustment
of the necessary veil, at the same time
assuring firmness and security.
A few suggestions sketched from the
Spring displays of Portland shops are
shown herewith. In No. 1 is shown
the typ of modish Spring coat, with
long, loose, rather scant lines, simple
and mannish In design. The smart mo
tor cape, for wear over the elaborate
dinner or theater gown, is shown in
No. 5: simple and severe, yet of a warm,
soft, flexible material in an effffective
color tone. It is the Ideal motor wrap,
and securely envelops and protects the
dainty elaborateness of the costume
worn underneath.
Several Attractive Suggestions.
... The popular plaid touches for motor
ing wear even extend to the veil de
signs, and No. 2 shows a pretty scarf
veil of soft, delicate blue, with a plaid
border in the Dresden tints. One of
the attractive and popular motoring
waist patterns is shown in No. 3, and
the correct type of neckwear accesso
ries are Indicated In No. 6, the severity
of the mannish linen collar being modi
fled this- season by more feminine
touches In the way of fancy bow ties,
smart jabots and an occasional bit of
ruchlng.
Since the evolution of the motor coat
to almost perfection In the matter of
simplicity of design, in . lightness and
warmth of material, and the absolute
protection from dust or rain. It has be
come possible, even for long trips and
rough journeys, for the automobile en
thusiast to attire , herself In modish
gowns which are suitable for almost
any social demand that may be encoun
tered. The simple, long lines and scant
breadths of the dlrectolre style are es
pecially suited for such a purpose.
Orange Marmalade an Inviting
Dish When Properly Prepared
Lilian Tingle Gives a Number of Recipes That Have Been Weighed
in the Epicurean Balance and Not Found Wanting.
BY LILIAN TIVGLS.
m WOULD so glad If you could
I supply recipes for orange marma
lade. My own batch failed and
yours are always so good. I have to
thank you for what success I have had
In my culinary efforts, and to say that
I am grateful Is hardly enough."
The above letter, with Its charming
little touch of "blames-," Is the most Ir
resistible of many requests both writ
ten and oral, for orange marmalade
recipes, so perhaps a few suggestions for
the making of this old-fashioned Scotch
preserve may fall into the category of
things "timely."
Oranges are Inexpensive Just now, and
this bitter-sweet delicacy Is both easy
to make and usually acceptable to the
capricious appetite of early Spring.
The first recipe is entirely unorthodox
and flies in the face of all tradition; but
Is a quick, easy and generally satisfac
tory method, though the result Is not so
delicate and pretty as some of the other
kinds.
' This Is an Easy One.
Easy orange marmalade No. 1 Choose
juicy oranges with thick skins; wash and
weigh them. For every pound of. or
anges allow 1 quart water. 2 pounds
sugar and 4 tablespoons lemon Juice. Cut
the oranges In half and squeeze out all
the Juice with a glass lemon-squeezer.
Let the skins stand in cold water over
night. In the morning remove the
stringy portions with a knife and pass
the solid skins through a food-chopper.
Put the chopped-up peel Into a pan with
the juice and proper measure of water.
j i! III ,
Sketch No. 1 shows the type of costume
which shows dainty femininity at its
best, and yet may be buttoned snugly
under the modern automobile coat, to
be there perfectly protected from !ust
or weather, and saved even from wrin
kling or crushing, while the wearer
speeds over rough country roads or long
wooded lanes ror many hours and over
many miles.
Cook until the peel looks soft and trans
parent and the water Is somewhat re-
dm-ed; then add the sugar and boll
gently until a little of the mixture will
"Jell" when tried on a cold saucer. Pour
into jelly glasses and cover In the usual
way with parafflne. One pound of or
anges usually gives five or six glasses
of marmalade.
Easy marmalade' No. 2 Use the same
Ingredients and proportions as above. Af
ter washing the oranges, cut them In
quarters . and. with a very sharp knife.
slice as thinly as possible through skin
and pulp. Add the water and lemon
Juice; let soak over night: or, better
still, heat to boiling point and place In
flrcless cooker over night. Cook until
the shreds of peel look transparent and
tend to sink; then add the sugar and
Don until the syrup will "loll."
The bitter Seville oranges give the best
Jelly or Jellied marmalade. Here Is a
good old recipe for the Jelly. It can
be used with fresh sliced sweet oranges
In a fruit cocktail instead of grape fruit:
Bitter orange Jelly Three pounds bitter
oranges, cut . In thin slices and with
seeds removed. , Boil. In 3 quarts water.
Strain through a Jelly bag. To each
pint of liquor add 1 pound sugar and
boll until It Will set when cooled. A
little lemon Juice Is sometimes consid
ered an improvement.
- JYr "Chip" Marmalade. '
"Chip" orange marmalade Use bitter
or sour oranges and the same proportions
as In the first recipe. Remove the peel
ln quarters) from the orange. Cook un
til soft In water. Add this water to the
pulp (cut In fine slices or rubbed through
The larprest and only sale of
We mention just a very few
Rerular Sale
Price. Price.
5- inch" Nappies .$ 2.3." SI. 18
6- inch Handle Nappies 2.5 1.23
Spoon Trays :$0o 1.50
Cheese Plates 4.."0 2.25
Celery Trays o.oO 2.75
Baskets . ... f.oo 2.50
Vinegar Cruets 2.SO 1.40
Perfume Bottle 10.OO 5.00
Vases '.--; 1.25
Spring Time Is Camera Time
No. 1 Ansco, takes pictures 3',i;x3V2-
No. 2 Ansco, ta.kes pictures 3V4x4',i. .
V O I. 41 i I
.i. o ni-., i ti ms pictures -x. ........... i .4 S
Ansco. Jr., folding, takes pictures 2,ix4,,4 12.00
No. 4 Ansco, folding, takes pictures SUx-t' 14.50
No. Ansco, folding, takes pictures 4x." 18.50
No. 0 Ansco. folding, takes pictures S'xo' j 20.00
(The No. 9 Ansco is the most popular Camera
made.)
WE DO
ARTISTIC
PICTURE
FRAMING
a sieve). Scrape the white part from the
peels and throw it away. Cut the yel
low part Into the finest possible shreds
(about three-fourths Inch long! with a
pnlr of scissors. This Is best done In
cheerful society, to the accompaniment
of Interesting conversation, as it is a
very tedious business if a large quantity
hs to be prepared.
Boil the chips ami pulp together until
the chips tend to sink. Then add the
sugar and cook until It "Jells." If this
gives too bitter a marmalade, it may be
modified by substituting fresh water for
a part of the water in which the skins
were cooked, or by changing the water
during the boiling process; but in this
cas the marmalade Is not so firm.
Whole slices of orange In Jelly can be
prepared by the second method, but
longer cooking w!l! of course be neces
sary. -
AVIth Tangerine Oranges.
The little tangerine oranges are some
times preser-ed whole. The pulp 'Is
extracted through a small opening with
the handlcof a teaspoon. The peel
are soaked, cooked, allowed to stand
over night, then cooked again until
Gay Parasols for
Japanese and Chinese Designs with
Axe in
(New Tork Sun.)
SHOPKEEPERS are showing new par
asols for the benefit of those lucky
folk who escape the end of the
Northern Winter and the dismal begin
ning of the Northern Spring, but Inci
dentally they are encouraging the stay-at-homes.
' There'a something distinctly
enlivening about golnt; forth and buying
a gay sunshade In Kebruary. It empha
sizes the calendar's promise that days of
sunshiny outdoor living are on the way.
and even the sight of a window full of
parasols gives one a most pleasing uplift.
The designs shown now are. of course,
only the advance guard, but they indicate
what the manufacturers have been doing
and what we may expect later on, and
while so far there is little that Is abso
lutely new there are plenty of charming
variations on old themes.
Sun readers may remembtT that in
speaking of certain Chinese or Japanese
parasol shapes which put In a fugitive
appearence here last Summer and were
pushed enthusiastically. If with no great
success In Paris, we prophesied a more
decided vogue for them next Summor.
and It would seem that the manufacturers
are of the same opinion, for the many
ribbed parasol, but slightly curved, ap
pears in all the -high-class stocks.
The Oriental idea is not confined entire
ly to the shape, and though some of these
sunshades are covered merely with flow
ered silks more or Ifsa Oriental In design,
the handsomer models are hand embroid
ered in design strictly Japanese or Chl
nes" A sketch is printed here of an ef
fective parasol of this type covered in a
soft, dull blue silk of rrepy texture and
bordered by a narrow fringe of the same
blue. As a border, between the rih are
exquisitely embroidered Japase figures
In gay costumes and above these little
figures are conventionalized flower de
signs, dwindling to mere tendrils as they
approach the ferrule.
One of these parasols In dull rone has
a jftiriknha design with a geisha passen
ger and boy runner, all embroidered In
minute and delightful fashion, but these
more elaborate parasols are. ot course,
expensive. A plain cover with one large
spray of chrysanthemums or cherry
blossoms embroidered on the side Is ef
fective, and there are some delightful
things In natural color pongee with great
colling dragons or fl'ehts of birds or flow
er designs embroidered on them in self
color of contrasting tones.
Among the parasols in the old familiar
shapes one finds colors and designs to
suit all tastes, with, perhaps, a prepon
derance of rose and violet shades these
two names being used perforce to ex
press a whole range o coloring whifeh
are neither" rose nor violet, but subtle
compounds of the two.
Some of the very smartest looking par
asols are covered In plain one-tone silk,
rich, lustrous and some exquisite modlah
shade, and have handles carrying out the
eiwwwwvnsuwajg
handsome Cut Glass ever held in Portland at such low figures.
of the pieces and prices:
Kesrular Sale
Price. Price.
Sugars and Creamers $ S.(Hi S-l.OO
Sugars and Creamers J. 37 1.10
Spoon Trays 4.IH1 2.00
Water Pitchers 7.00 3.50
Comports um 3.00
Water .lujrs 15.m 7.50
Fruit Bowls $.o0 -I.OO
Fruit Bowls .yoo 2.50
$ 5.00
7.25
mmm
quite tender and shapely. Then the
pulp and sugar Is boiled up with them
In the usual way. They make very
pretty and uncommon preserves.
Grape fruit marmalade is popular with
those who like the tonic bitter flavor of
this fruit. A good proportion is as fol
lows: For every grape fruit of medium
size use the Juice of half a lemon, IVi
pints water and 1 pounds of sugar.
Make like orange marmalade, removing
all seeds and white skins and core. The
bitterness can be reduced by soaking the
peel In several successive waters before
cooking.
Lmoiu marmalade Is preferred by some
people lo either the orange or grape
fruit kind. The method is the same as
for grape fruit, but the mixture never
"Jells" very well. Special care should
be taken to have the peel finely divided
and well cooked before adding the sugar
or the shreds will be hard and tough.
Orange "cheese" Is made like marma
lade, but pulp and peel, after being
cooked until tender, are rubbed through
a sieve before being boiled with the
sugar. This gives' a very firm preserve
which can be cut in slices for garnishing
or rolled In sugar as a sweetmeat.
Coming Season
Hand-Embroidered Oriental Effects
Vogue.
same color. The makers have achieved
distinct success with smooth wood sticks
as subtle in coloring as the silks used
for covering, and often by way of handle
one one sees bnly a swelling knob of
this wood lightly shaded In the one color.
Or perhaps the knob may be of enamel
or of some seml-preclous stone echolns
the color of the stick.
The rib tips too will be In this same
color. Pink quarts Is effectively used for
many handsome handles and Jade or Imi
tation jade is also prntsed Into service,
but the enamels are often quite as suc
cessful as the stones.
Carved wood handles representing ani
mals and birds and highly colored appear
each season, but the onVringa of this sort
this year have more than their grotesque
quality to recommend them, the designer
having given to them in many cases color
schemes of the most delightful sort. One
handle In particular, a stork, with his
long, slim neck so curved that his bill
meets his slender legs. Is not only clever
ly modeled, but Is colored with genuine
artistic skill., if with no attention to Na
ture's predilections In the matter.
Soft dull rose and blue and green and
violet are malo to blend with the natural
tones of the wood, the coloring of the
parasol cover being, of course, the thing
considered in the color ix-heme of the
handle. For a parasol of grayish rose,
let us say. the stork handle will show the
natural wood of the stk-k carried up Into
the bird's legs, but blending Into the gray
greens of wirs and tail. These gray
greens meet Into rose shades on the
breast and under the neck, but reassert
themselves again along th back of the
neck and in the head, while the natural
wood tone crops out again in the beak.
Ear rots and other birds are handled In
the same way, but the stork handle
seems distinctly the best of its class.
Some beautiful covers in figured silks
woven expressly for parasol purposes
show flights of birds or butterflies In
charming color harmonies; but In silk
parasols, as has been said before, the
one tone covers seem particularly good.
These are sometimes relieved by bold
soutache embroidery In self-color, as il
lustrated In one model, but often are
perfectly plain or finished merely by a
narrow frill of the silk.
An odd effect Is given In some 'eases
by cutting the cover In a circle instead
of curving up the sections between the
ribs. This leaves a soft fulness between
the ribs which breaks the hard line of
the . parasol edge, and a narrow pinked
frill usually helps the softening.
Plain silks with borders of one kind or
another are. of course, much In evidence.
Persian band borders being particularly
emphasized. Block check borders on
plain silk covers are shown In good color
ings, and among the best of the bordered
designs are covers of rich one-tone silk
with wide plain borders In a darker shade
of the same color.
More costly borders are hand embroid
ered on plain covers in self-color or In
darker or lighter shades of the same col
or, and occasionally the wide plain border
of deeper shade and the embroidery are
Agents for Ansco ami Spnccn Cam
eras; Cyko, Argo, Artura and
Kruxo Papers. We have just re
ceived a very large shipment of
Kruxo I'aper, made in all grades
to meet the requirements of ama
teur and professional photographers.
CANADIAN
MONEY
TAKEN
AT PAR
combined, the embroidery design hiding
the line of union between the Ixvly of thu
cover and the border and usually shading
from one to the other.
A few of the cretonne and antique cot
ton effects so much the race in Paris two
seasons aro and popular here last Sum
mer, are appearing acain. and hand em
broidered linen and lingerie parasols ar
more modish then ever. Much openwork
English or Madeira embroidery is used,
on th new linen models.
Mme. Yale's
Hair Tonic
FOR CHILDREN
AND ADULTS
Antiseptic and Hygienic
A lflmlr In lajormtor J ut w hut It
rnmf inipH It uppltes iiuriirimnt.
the men t of growth. whh nhrn
hr-orhtMl l.y the hair, at rn ct hn and
h u u x t n It In t h me av that p
Fkrtris t he fnltjtjt o( m i rfe. K en
where the fvlUM-r mm peemmcl V 1ojt.
If ih j;p in maoaced rlHily with Minn
Yale' Hair Tonh- a vixoroaa growth
le produce!. t hax lionoallv earned It P
title of "the great hair (rowrr It
pt intubate the in opt tunte. growl h and
makes the liair mairnlrtn-ent ly hralthy
and neautifuL Ry It ue women rail
provide them pel ve with a trai litis man
tle of hair woman's natural raiment,
her hirthrlirht
M me. Vale'a Hair Ton in I pr fieri
enttally b men and women, part l-u !arly
when the hair becln to weaken or fade
("urea t.aMnenn. grayn, Miiitting of the
hair, dandruff and all d i ceases of the
hair, ax-alp nd eard. one application
usually Ptta hair fall ins; A nursery
reijulPlte: nr. mother hul neglect to
Une It for her hoya and rlrl; when the
hair la made ttroncr In rhiidhood. it re
main proof agalmtt disease and retain
its vigor and, youth fulness throuihoui
life
Mme. Yale If air Toole5 in a colorWa.
fragrant, delightful hair dressing; neither
atlrky. KritTy. nor gre"ay ; makep the
ha l pof t. fluffy and glapy. f'on tains no
artificial coloring: would not soil the
w hi text hair; restore origlnul color by
Invigorating the calp and re-ePtsbMph-Ing
normal circulation and proper diP
trlhtitinn of the live coloring marfer.
Beautiful hair redeem the plntnept
countenance, and anyone ran eecur it
by using Mm. Tate's Hair Tonic. Now
In three size. Our rpedal price
$1.00 size 79c.
.50 size 39c.
-25 size 21c.
TV will give you free a copv of
Mme Tale 4i-page book on Bcautv
and Physical tulture. if y nv
out of town, write us and we will
mail you - copy.
Lipman, Wolfe &
Co.
Owl Cat-Rate Drug Dept.