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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Jan. 3, 1909)
Plain and Fancy Winter Blouses THK blouse plays a most prominent rolln mid-Winter fashions: for a satin-finished fabrirs grow In fa ' vor, so do plain skirt", which fact throws the responsibility of trimming entirely on the bodice. The secret of successful blouse-building this oration Is to secure by the ad Justnint of srirrtia and trimming the ef i feet of a one-piece costume, eve n though the skirt and blouse be separate. So let me here emphasize the Importance of having the girdle match or harmonize perfectly with bodice and skirt, thereby forming a connecting link. Karlier In the season, when the Direotoire sash came In. we saw many black saehes on broadcloth arid silk gowns of other colors.- such as gruy, tobacco-brown, der red. biuette, etc. Vr a time this picturesque tl appealed, but now It has ben abaricio::e-d in favor of matching sashes, and truly this :s a blessed econ my for women of Mender means. Any one-piece costume, miicther cut on princess. Knipire or Directoire lines. Is an appalling tak for the home dress maker, but it is a comparatively sim ple trick to simulate these effects In two-piece costume, when the material of the skirt is employed In the bjuuse and a high girdle Is added. In planning this season's1 blouse to match any skirt, it must be borne in mind that the lining must fit snugly and that there must bo no fullness nor "ponrh" at the waist ilne. The fullness Is over the bust and shoulders, ner lower. Another feature of the up-to-dare blouse Is the guimpe. yoke or tucker effect, and the woman of slender purs- will llnd that she can freshen her wardrobe wonderfully by introducing novel guimpes. For instance. If yo'i have a princess or Empire effect In satin-tinlshed broad cloth, cashmere or any supple cloth or In messaline, vou can transform it -from afternoon to dinner gown by introducing a different gulmpe. If your afternoon guimpe Is of tucked net. dyed to match the fabric, with high pointed collar and long mousqnetalre sleeves, you can sub stitute for dinner a guimpe of cream. hlt" or ecru net, Inset with medallion of lace or colored embroidery picked out with gold or silver bead. The neck should be slightly rounded or cut in Dutch" fashion, and the mousquetalre s'eeves may be long or short. Kven with very decollette frock, long sleeves art worn this season, though sticklers for the conventions insist that elbow sleeve or shorter should accompany the very low peck. If odd guimpes are to be used they should be fitted perfectly on n lining which runs to the waist line and then fastened to the blouse proper by innu merable small hooks and silk eyes t prevent even the tiniest gaps. We are showing this week a splendidly fitted gtiiiiipc pattern. In which the lace or net can be used for the sleeves and !nr a yoke of any depth and shape. It Is especially suited to developing the popu lar keystone yokes which run half way down the fronts of bloiiF"S. Here, in f'gure A. the sleeves are month, plain and tlsM-fUtlng. with the highly favored pointed finish at the wrist: but In figure, B there l shown a different treatment, with the keystone yoke and mousquetalre sleeves to elbow or hand. The original of this model was a wistaria-colored messaline trimmed with embroidered banding of silver on wistaria silk and an edge of deeper wis taria braid. The keystone yoke was of rresmy figured net. showing a tine daisy pattcrn. and In the heart of each daisy a. sewed a silver bead. The same model wotil.l develop charm !rg!y catawba-colorcd silk or broadcloth w:th a plain net. spangled with fine gold iea.ls over gnM gauze. The introduction f a.i interlining of metallic gauze is one of the feature's of the mid-Winter fashion season. Kspectully is it effective under artlllei.il light, therefore popular for dinner, elaming and afternoon recep :lon gowns. But It must be borne In mind that the metallic touch is to be Introduced lightly, deftly and In homeo pathic quantities. The smartly-made gown does not display bullion gauze or .-loth or banding under net or lace or mhroiderrd chiffon cloth, etc. Figure t shows a very good model for a me.vfalir.e or satin shirtwaist to match a tatlored suit. The scalloped stlges are bound In flat silk braid of Just a trifle deeper hue. matching In finish the binding of the -left hand skirt seam, which Is opened and scalloped, the only trimming on the fckirt. And just here a word about buttons. If you cannot buy handsomely jeweled or chased buttons and you are tired of satin-covered but tons, try covering the molds first with Rounding Out the Arms DESPITE the fact that long iev have ennie Into vogue, there are many times when a long, bony arm and thin band are a great embarrassment to the owner. Perfectly molded arms aie eldom een. and particularly Is It un ssuai to see a perfect foreaj-m. However, there are simple home treatments which will often eradicate a great many blem ishes. One of the greatest whiteners ! pure lemon juice, which should be used freely by the gtrl who has a yellow tint to the skin of the arm. Very thin and crawny arms should b massaged with a flesh food, and physical culture exercises should be practiced. Massage of the arms is accomplished by graping one arm with tbe band of tl.e opposite arm. and bejinring at the wrist, working upward wlt.i a twisting and wringing motion. Then begin from the shoulder ana work don in the same manner, all the time worwtng into the flesh some good food. If the arm Is apt to be blotch v. and the circulation is poor, the mass of flesh should be gripped K" tween the finer and thumb In a firm gravp. and moved up aud down upon the undet lying bone. .VJciV women write to me that the flesh upon the upper arm is very rough, and tl-is is very unbecoming with evening dress. It Is often caused by carelessness In pmpevlv drying the aims nd from the Insufficient use of the scrubbing brush. A very stiff brush should be used on the upper part of the arms, but even such application will not always relieve that rough condition.' Uo to any reliable drug gist and ak for a cake of pumice stone not powdered pumice, but in one solid cake. Applv to the rough parts of the arm every day. then wash off in warm water ncd so.ip. Furul. e stmie will also remove super fluous hairs en the rms unless they are , erv stubborn. If the frequent use of puniice stjiie irritates the flesh, apply ox'de of Jiie ointment and It will quicklv rclV'O tli-t ltd-lr.:; sersitio i. Formula for this ointment has been g:vcn so efrn In these col-mns that I wiil not repeat cloth or silk or aatin and then with in terlaced soutache braid. These are very popular and the smallest buttons are rtmply knots of Interlaced braid, bullet shaped. Figure D suggests a stunning idead for the girl who can braid and embroider quickly. As will be seen by reference to the plain model of the bolero sections In the upper corner, the foundation of this frock Is very -simple, but a girl who ran braid evenly and work solid discs of heavy embroidery silk In between the braid pattern will soon have a very or nate and effective afternoon blouse. The model from which this was FIG. O AFTERNOON BLOUSE IN LONDON-SMOKE BRAIDED BOLERO. sketched was a I-nndon-smoke broad cloth, rombined with net dyed to match, a matching sash of messaline and a touch of flame color in the embroidery. The guimpe. for which the pattern In figure A could be used, was made "of the coarse net. laid In broad tucks, and fitted snugly into the aist line. The broadcloth used In the skirt formed the foundation of the bolero and was almost hidden by soutache braid In Uondon smoke and embroidered discs in flame, color. The upper edge of the bolero was finished with teeth-shaped trimming of broadcloth, each finished with gray braid and a flame-colored disc, while the lower part of the bolero had a finish of fine ndon-smoke ball fringe. A touch It. but I will gladly send It to any reader uoon receipt of stamped and self-addressed envelope. Hair on the arms It an affliction com mon to many women. In using depila tories, remember that no depilatory has FiO. A The Popular Guimpe Introduced in Many Blouses. - yet been discovered that will remove the hair and prevent Its coming back. The following formula is a simple one and can be used with a degree of safety. It will remove the hair tempoi arily. but further than that I vromise nothing: Iis.solve of the braid and embroidery was also In troduced around the high collar. Pieces of embroidered crepe de chine, jetted net, braided net and lace In which fine braid or colored embroidery Is in troduced can be used to build this bo lero. - . In figure E you find the reverse of the treatment shown In figure D. for here the over-drapery Is of satin or some other supple fabric, while the braid embroid ery or lnce appears in the undergarment or low-cut yoke. The blouse Is made in two sections, a plain foundation and an over-drapery. The under-garment may be of percaline BROADCLOTH WITH or silk lining, with upper section and sleeves of lace, net, braided chiffon or satin, while the drapery by contrast will be plain but very supple. The sleeves may be plain or shirred, but the model complete is most artistic. The over drapery and sash In the original were of creamy white messaline and the sleeves and yoke were of cream-colored net braided and studded with gold beads. The sleeves were held in place by straps of the satin, finished with rosettes of net. set on by gold and pearl ornaments. With blouses such as these a plain gored tklrt. either regulation length or mounted to give the short-waisted ef fect, can be used. MARY DEAN. and Hands three ounces of sulpliuret of barium in 12 ounces of water and bottle. When de sired for use wet enough cornstarch with this liquid to make a paste sufficient to cover the growth of hair It is desired to remove. When dry tfle hair will come away with the paste. The girl who feels that her arm Is ugly beyond redemption should adopt the style of long sleeves which reach to the wrist. Theso sleeves are worn even with decol lette gowns. Only constant care will keep the hands In good condition during the Winter months, and the giH who wants soft, white hands should never let them get chilled. Remember that kid gloves are cold, particularly if they are tight, and a scheme that many girls of the smart set have adopted is wearing a loose kid glove with woolen glows over them. The leather seems to hold the natural warmth in the hand and the wool tends to keep out the cold. The wise girl will rub cold cream Into the flesh of t o hands every time she goes out In the air b it ten times a day. And she rubs itinto the flesh doesnot dab It on carelessly always rubbing it down towards the cuticle of the nails. If the grease is well worked Into the flesh M will not soil the leather of the gloves. If the hands do get chilled despite muff and gloves, do not hoM them over the fire when coming in. Wash in tepid water and throw just a little glycerine Into the basin to soften the water about a tea spoonful to every pint of water and then rub the hands vigorously until the nat ural hea-t has returned to them. , When It is desired to whiten and soften the hands with the least possible delay the following cosmetic paste is very bene ficial: Myrrh, one ounce: honey, four ounces: yellow wax, two ounces: rosewater, six ounces. Melt, the yellow wax in a double boiler and then add the myrrh. . which should be powdered, while the wax is still hot. Beat these two Ingredients thoroughly to gether, then -tir in the honey, which should be strained, then the rosewater. If you find It too thick, add enough glycerine to make a spreadable paste. Apply at Dight and wear a pair of old rlv, several sizes loo large. Do not expect a cure in one night. Repeat the process every night for a week or two. In your quest for pretty arms and Jiands do not forget that lacing will give you red arms and swollen fingers. Tight gloves will also make the arms red and mottled. Believe me. It is far better to have the waist line one inch larger and pretty white arms, rather than red arms and a small wist line. For the woman who has a thin hand with large veins showing and whose flesh hangs looselv over the bones of the fin gers. I recommend that she massage every day with the flesh food which I am giving. This food should not be used on the face if the skin is inclined to be hairv, but it Is quite safe to use freely on the hands where the skin is not so fine: Tannin, one-half gramme; lanoline, 30 grammes; oil of sweet almonds, 20 grammes. Melt the lanoline and oil In a double boiler with as little heat as possible. Re move from the fire and beat in the tannin as the mixture cools. KATHERINB MORTON. Seen in and Out of the Shops COTTON prints In Imitation of the real East Indian fabrics are now found In all department stores. These make very . effective hangings. They are rot expensive, they wash well, and they give to an otherwise plain bed room a warm and cheerful effect at very little cost. Russian crash is now used for making very effective and very inexpensive pillow covers. This crash can be em broidered in large, conventional designs for the living-room, or for the nursery it can be embroidered with nursery rhvmes and Mother Goose melodies. These pillow covers are laced together at one end so that they can be removed and washed at frequent Intervals. All the new long coats are slashed up at both sides. This is necessary to give ease and comfort in walking. Old-fashioned coral brooches are th9 latest fad for fastening the frills of lace worn at the throat. The rose pattern is the leader, but the other flower designs and pendants are seen frequently. The shoe departments of the smart shops are exhibiting rubber-soled and heeled shoes for the girls who live out of doors and walk a great deal. This addi tion of rubber is said to save the apine a great deal of irritation and to make walking easier in every way. What is known as the "Week-tnd Bag" has made its appearance. This is a miniature traveling bag just large enough to .hold a night dress and a few toilet articles. There is a strong revival of colored embrofderv on linen toweling. Dull blue, soft browns, pinli and faded green Initials are now seen on handsome towels. These letter are worked in the middle of the end of the towel and can easily be done at home by even the beginner In em broidery. The newest engagement bracelets are studded with stones which spell "dear est." Most of these bracelets are set with a diamond, emerald aquamarine, rubv. emerald, sapphire and topaz. Now that the imitation stones are made so cleverly, the bracelet can be purchased at little cost set with what is known as the semi -precious Btones. Suitcases especially made for women to carry are extremely light In weight and are lined with silk and fitted with silk pockets. These weigh little more than an ordinary shopping bag. but will not stand any rough handling and should never be checked when traveling. Women with' short necks who do not like to wear high fur ruffs, are invest ing In the new shawl collars made of lynx. ThePossibilities of Chocolate THE store-room of every good house keeper should contain a goodly sup ply of chocolate. It is full of nutri ment, fattening In quality and can be developed into all sorts of dishes tempt ing to the eye and the palate alike. Nervous, thin children should be al lowed to drink all the chocolate they want. In making chocolate to drink, about foyr ounces of the unsweetened chocolate should be allowed for each quart of milk, and it should be sweetened with brown sugar rather than white. Boil down until It has the consistency of cream, and just before removing from the fire flavor with vanilla. For afternoon Fig. B Keystone Yoke Effect In Figured Net. tea for grownups it ia well to aeld a lib eral dash of port wine as a flavoring. The chocolate should not boil after fla voring has been added, as the heat will kill it. Chocolate Pane-akes This makes a deli cious dessert for luncheon and on? that 1 quickly prepared. Mix tOKether two eggs, yolks and whites, with two heap iri? tablespoons of sweetened chocolate tiiat has been grated (if unsweetened brand is used, then the mixture must be sweetened to taste) naif cup of milk, lralf cup of flour. Beat all together well. Fry like ordinary pancakes, brown on both sides and roll them, lay on a hot plat ter, sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve Immediately. , Hot Chocolate Sauce for Vanilla Ice Cream In a porcelain saucepan boil to gether one cup of water and half a cup of granulated sugar. Iet it boil for five minutes, and then tjr in slowly five tablespoons of grated chocolate that has been dissolved in a gill of rich milk or thin cream. Hospitality Should Be Fine Art WITH the woman, hospitality should be and generally Is a fine art. No matter what her estate, how large or small her Income, the matron honestly aspire to succeed as a hostess. Whether she pours tea at a deal table covered with a red and white checked FIG. E CREAM COLORED MESSALINE cloth or at a polished mahogany checked with lace and roses, she does her level best to Impress her guest with her abil ity to entertain gracefully and graciously. "I have just married and moved to , where' my husband has provided a very attractive home. I want to help him in business by entertaining his Amenities for the Young GIRLS have a good deal of license these days In going about together, but they subject themsalves to unpleas ant criticism If they do not remember to be as well mannered in public as they are at home. At matinees, for Instance, where groups of young girls are frequently seen, and sometime without a chaperon, there is great need of careful conduct, for per sons, whether young or old, who are heed less of their manners In such a place make ' themselves not only disagreeable to those about them but conspicuous in a way not to be desired. Jolly girls out for a good time some times forget that there are other persons In the world, and that' these other per sons. In a theater, for example, are very near neighbor, with rights and privileges of their own, as well as their own way of raking their enjoyment. It Is extremely trying to such p?ople to be seated near girls who are' heedless of every one but themwlve. These heedless glrUs laugh and talk In loud, unladylike tones between the acts and munch candy with avidity. During the play they often carry on conversation in whispers which can be plainly heard to the great annoyance of their neigh bors, while many girls fL-rther disturb by he.lng "wrigglers" -moving restlessly in their chairs, first an arm or a leg. or nervously fingering their programmes or their hats. There is also the girl who, having seen the play before, cannot keep quiet through a second performance, but in sists on whispering tbe development of the plot. a.s it goes along, to her com panions. When the hero comes in she will tell what he is go;ng to do and what the heroine will do, and whenever there is suspense in the plot she will explain ex actly how It is all coming out. Not only hcr companions bere these things, but those sitting near are her victims, and as it spoils the play for them they do not feel very kindly toward the offender, who all the time is really quite unconscious of being objectionable. Fray do not be this kind of girl. If yon happen to know the play keep still and let ohters have the enjoyment of hearing it from the stage. Keep still in all circumstances while the play goes onkep your tongue still and your body still Between the acts chatter all you like.' provided you do it In quiet tones, but do not eat candy. It is as tad form to eat canfly in a, theater a it would be In a streetcar. . Trv not to be late to the play, for it is jicnAiMoniM to disturb those who have taken the trouble to get there on' time by vnur tardy arrival The simplest way friends in the right way. Will you give me some suggestions for good form as a hostess?" This appeal, though rather sweeping in character, suggested today's" article on etiquette. How should the young matron entertain? In her husband's estimation, perhaps, WITH BRAIDED AND BEADED NET. her most Important gift as a hostess lie in her ability to give, a good dinner. At this function she will shine before his men friends. He takes little interest in her teas or luncheons, and is frankly bored with the idea of a reception. But the dinner party is by far the most important and the, most delicate of all entertainments. Here she timst ex of disposing of your wraps Is to check them, but should you mot wish to do so remove them as soon as you get Into your seat. In spite of good intentions you are late, slip off your wrap and hat before you go down the aisle, which will enable you to get seated with less dis turbance to others. If you are sitting in a box it is not necessary to remove your hat, though you will wish to do so if you find it .is obstructing (lie view of anv one of your companions. The American Working Girl. (Harper's Bazaar.) A consensus of opinion, appearing from conferences with two high-grade employment agencies, four large com mercial houses (not department stores), three large professional offices, and a large number of miscellaneous men of Fig. C Tailored Blouse of Messaline with Scalloped Bound In Braid. experience In the business world of New York City is that: Takinc education, family training, and influence, and personal qualities and characteristics, into consideration in determining what is meant by "the ercise exquisite care In selecting guests, so that the atmosphere around thei! table will be congenial. Brown and Jones may be friends down town when their wives are social rivals and at sword's point. Wherefore she will not have Mr. and Mrs. Jones and Mr. and Mrs. Brown at her initial dinner. It Is never safe to give a dinner party, dear bride, until you know youi new town, its social idiosyncraclcs, its cliques, its affiliations, etc. Your hus band may be very proud of his bride, his newly furnished home and his wed ding gifts, but be not led from the straight and narrow path by social dis cretion by Ills immediate request for a dinner party. Have his most Inti mate friends to dinner Informally, a couple at a time, until you know your town, then give the formal dinner. And incidentally remember that dinner in vitations go out in the Joint names of your husband and yourself; also that your husband leads the way to the dining-room with the woman guest of honor, highest social stnnding or age on his arm, while you bring up the rear of the procession with the leading man guest. As a rule, the bride is kept quite busy at first repaying calls and accepting the hospitalities of her husband's old friends. In addition to this, she renerally send out her own cards for four afternoons at home, a fortnight apart, or if her hus band Is fond of society, they are both at home on four evenings at the same Interval. In the latter case, the joint cards are sent out. When the bride re ceives In the afternoon, either the an nouncement of her days at home accom pany the wedding announcement cards or she sends them out separately di rectly she returns from tho honeymoon. In giving these afternoons at home, she Invites members of her wedding party to receive with her, or If she moves from her old home to her hus band's town, she selects some of his old friends iO assist her. provided, of course, that they have been prompt to call upon her and show her social at tentions. For these afternoon affair, light re freshments are provided, tea, chocolate, dainty sandwiches, cakes and bon-bons; at night, coffee or punch may be sub stituted for tea and chocolate. For a large reception at night the bride don her wedding gown, but for the after noon affairs she wears a dainty house frock. If her husband assists In re ceiving during the afternoon, he wears gray trousers, black frock coat, fancy waistcoat and silk tic, but at night he puts on evening clothes. These general afternoon teas are al ways the safest way of entertaining for the newcomer or bride who ha not yet learned where to draw her social lines. letter, sho can give a scries of smaller affairs, luncheons, muslcales, din ners, card parties, etc., but at first she should not pick and choose her guests too finely. In giving a dinner, the average dining-room will not accommodate mare than ten, and a larger number of guests take from the general air which men like around the eilnner table. A lunch eon of more than 12 covers is also apt to be cumbersome,, but a card party is limited only by the size of rooms and the number of tables which can be ar ranged. The young matron's social privileges are many. If her huusband desires to entertain a number of hi bachelor friends, she may be tho one woman at the table or she may arrange for their entertainment and then turn the house over to them. Sho may give, with her husband a chafing dish party of the most informiil character and entertain ail young people. She may entertain any number of girls and women friends at a matinee, followed by tea at a smart tearoom, but if she gives a thea ter party at night, with men gue-sts as well as women, the invitations are Issued in her husband's name and hers. While she Is above all things the mistress of her home, she will not en tertain guests of whom her husband, for good and sufficient reasons, does not ap prove. Before Inviting out-of-town guests to visit her, she will consult her husband, as a matter of courtesy and consideration, upon which married happiness is built. PKl'DWNCK STANPISH. School Girl best" of the wages of "the best" wo men employed In this city as clerks, bookkeepers, cashiers, stenographers, filing clerks. saleswomen, etc. the following seems to be true: They (generally) begin at $7 to $8 per week. It (generally) takes about three years to advance to 10,or $12 per week. It (generally) takes five to six year more to advance to J15 per week. Not more than 10 per cent ever go beyond $15 per week. Advance in wAges Is very rare after 1 years' service, except with the 10 per cent who develop peculiarly strong characteristics and are advanced to ad ministrative positions. It must be remembered that thl covers only employes who can prop erly be classed as "the best." Other begin at $3. S4. and $5 a week, and rarely rise above $7 or $8 a week. It seems also true that the younger women and the better-equipped women crowd out the older women, as appears from the fact that except among "the best" few remain after 30 or 35 years, and even among "the best" few remain after 40 or 45 years. He Proud I'arent. Ch cago News. I know some thin never knew befors. My theuRhts are running in a quite nw channel. It always puzzled 'me why infants wore Thoe t'Hnils of flannel. I know the properties of acids, too 1-aetic. as well as antiseptic boric: I've also lately learned just what to Jo With paregoric. I know the way that milk 1 monuiea. How peptonized when warm enough for feeding'. That most instructive work, "The Mother's Guide." miu' I'm reading. I'm nontlns up on adenoids- l thing That interferes. 1 find with proper hreath- Ing: And I can tell you what is Ju the ring To ue for teething. It'll wonderful what mothers hve to know And fathers, too. in certain circumstance. I am a fathar conscientious so I take, no chances. . I'm proud of whst I've learned, he,ng a man, Kspeelallv and tills 1 bona fide That uM as well as any one 1 ran Put on a didy - The Ret urn Trip. T-oulsvllle courier-Journal. Coming back from Turkeytown Is the throng. On the uld pvjpepeia Line Those who overwell did dins Jolt along. Of good eailng Turkeytown Had no lack. But too much l sure to cloy And thre la no real Joy Coming Lack.
