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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Dec. 13, 1908)
TIIE SUNDAY OREGOXIAN, PORTLAND, DECEMBER 13, I90S. Utilizing Remnants for Christmas Gifts WE can all look back to the days when the piece bag or remnant box would yield no more prom ising Christmas harvest than a few h'raps for pincushions, sachets and sim ilar ornamental. If not always usful. Rifts. Today the Christmas fad is for practical things, however dainty, and the gift maker can do wonders with leftovers. First, here Is a good idea for a cor set cover that will not take much time. You may have a three-o,uarter length of dotted Swiss, checked dimity or other white fabric left from a Summer blouse or dress. It Is just the thing to use for one of those two-piece corset covers with a single ream down the back. Cut it to tho bust and waist measurement of your S'.rl friend, but without any skirt or tails piece. Finish it around the bottom with lace or embroidery beading. At the top finish with insertion, then beading, then edging. Now to give the effect of hand work on the left side right over the In art. you know, feather-stitch a circle in white mercerized floss, say two and a half Inches in diameter. Inside write your friend's Christian name in distinct li tters, and outline stitch this with the white floss. Run white or fWy pale blue, pink or lavender ribbons through the beadinjr and you have a hand-made gift, provided, of course, that you do the learning, hemming and. lace sewing all by hand, as the French do. A sirl who found three different scraps of wash fabrics In her remnant box bouKlit a bolt each of inexpensive in sertion and eliding for 70 cents, some beading at 45 cents a bolt and ribbon at a sale for 1 cents. Her three lovely gifts cost her $1.36 and made a good appearance. Another lovely personal gift Is neck wear, and here the remnant box will prove useful. If you have any sort of soft, glistening silk, particularly mes saline, cut it into either straight or bias pieces as you would for folds, two Inches or a trifle less In width. Make first a hand to lit snugly around the neck; then several ends of various lengths. Finish two of these ends with tiny rosettes of the silk, the third with a scrap of fringe if you can match the silk, or a tassel. Make a smart little bow with which to fasten the ends to the collarette, two loops not over an inch long, and you have a pretty cravat that any girl friend will like. r If you have a length of velvet rib bon left from trimming a dress, utilize that, finishing the ends with bullion fringe, balls or ornaments which you can pick up very cheaply on bargain square. A stunning combination is golden brown with gold bullion. Blue of a rich shade with silver bullion Is also good. Again you can finish the ends of your cravat with scraps of lace and here Is a fine way to use up lengths of lace from six to ten inches which you think are useless. If your mother or grandmother has a piece of old-fashioned brocade of any size you can give your dearest girl friend an ideal Christmas gift, a vest. The pattern you can buy at any depart ment store. The back of the vest you can make of any good lining material percallne. wash flannel, etc. or you can simply make the vest fronts to tack in a coat suit. A three-quarter length of brocade or fancy silk will make the vest, which must be interlined, stitched carefully by machine for a finish and topped off by smart buttons. Another lovely sift which mother can make for daughter or aunty for niece 1 a collarette or ruff in which a strip of apparently useless fur will come in finely. V'e will say you have a narrow strip of mink fur less than half a yard In length. Get the exact measurement of the young girl's neck, for the new ruffs fit snugly. Make a double" or rose pleating of silk in a color that com bines well with the mink fur. such as brown, hunter's green, a rich blue or the new Tame color if the girl can wear that siiade. Run tho strip of fur through the center of this pleating and finish with a very smart, bow 1. e., with short )iHps and ends, or, better still, an old fashioned clasp. If such you have in your button box. Remember that dull, old gold and dull silver clasps are very smart this year. Any- girl who receives such a gift will be delighted, and it will afford real throat-protection. Some of the combinations of fur and silk shown in the shops are strips of dark grey squirrel or chinchilla with the new flame-colored silk and with coral pink. Remember that the new coral 1a the hue of real coral beads, not an old-rose shade. Another pretty combination Is an ermine strip with Gobelin blue, or sage tea green. The strip of fur should be about three inches wide and a yard of 5s-cent messaline will make the nich ing. Bits of maline with an artificial flow er and some leaves can be wrought into Some Frock Fashions for Holiday Functions THE girl who cannot boas.t of a new frock for- the Christmas dance or house-party or after noon tea feels that there is a shortage in holiday cheer. Perhaps that is why dressmakers are told, along about the middle of November: "Here Is the ma terial for my new dress, but I'd Just as soon It was not finished until just be fore Christmas. I do love something fresh and crisp for Christmas w:eek." Indeed new things are essential for the holiday week, for then hostesses vie with each other for "days," dinners and dances, and before the New Year bells ring, a woman's wardrobe shows the strain. From grandma to babyklns. every one Is getting the correct holiday at tire. This is not easy to define In a few words, but generally speaking It Is shimmery and clinging. Some lovely new fabrics have come in with the late season, not the least important of which Is the satin finished cashmere which at a distance cannot be told from Direc tolre satin and which is much more supple and warm. It costs, generally speaking. $2 to $2.50 a yard, is about 43 or 45 inches wide, has a wondrous sheen and Is no heavier than the old fashioned lightweight cashmere. But how It does drape ami cling. Frankly, I prefer it to satin at the same price in a narrower width. And for house dresses It is infinitely superior to even the lightest weights of the new Dlrec- toire broadcloths. ' It comes in all the new colors, Cataw ba. London smoke, wistaria and the lat est shades of blue. For trimming, eith er the new passementris with the color of the cashmere predominating and touches of more delicate coloring and gold or copper tints, or laces overlaid with colored embroidery are preferred. These cashmeres can be used to great advantage for evening coats in gray-Ish-hlues. coral-pink, flame color, ca tawba and delicate gray or mode. They should be trimmed with lace, or em lovely coiffure ornaments. A resource ful girl searched her remnant box and evolved a lovely coronet for her elderly aunt. Soft grey maline she twisted Into a band ro encircle the coiffure. Then she made a rosette of the remaining maline, and frosted It with tiny steel beads. A striking steel button, also from the remnant box, filled In the heart of EMPIRE DANCING FROCK the rosette, and from the rosette rose a short but graceful ostrich feather, once white, now dyed grey. The girl washed the plume, dyed it grey, dried it by shaking It over a radiator, and, behold: a hair ornament made from the remnant box for nothing which would have cost several dollars at a shop. . Pink coronet effects in maline. with a rosette or loops of the maline and a delicate French rose In the center with perhaps a few frosted leaves, can be evolved from very little material. If frosted leaves are used then broidered bandings or braid. A charm ing example of their use for an even ing coat Is shown In Illustration A. Here you have a coral-pink satin fin ished cashmere four and one-half yards in all lined with a soft gray messaline and interlined with wash flannel. The trimmings consists of coral-pink velvet bands braided with gold, and gold bullion cords and tassels. The buttons are of the cloth. Another example of the use of this fabric will be found in Figure B, a young girl s house gown of blue satin finished cashmere combined with silver braid. The braid bands for finishing the Jumper and sleeves are of heavy satin in precisely the same shade as the cloth, with sliver braid. The bow and girdle are of the self tone satin, but the guimpe 1s of figured net, picked out with tiny silver beads. Incidentally, beaded nets and laces are the fad of the moment. Tucked net of the plainest sort. lightly spangled with tin?- gold, sliver or, steel beads costs $4.50 a yard, but arry nimble fin gered woman can do this spangling herself on net that will cost no more than 90 cents a yard. When it comes to evening frocks, of which figure C is a dainty model, metallic or Jeweled effects are greatly In evidence. The model is of frosty green messaline trimmed round the skirt with bias folds and tiny tucks. The shirred bodice is outlined-by a lace in sertion embroidered with seed pearls wnicn appears also as a finish for the very short sleeves. The shirred and draped upper-sleeve Is finished with small pearl ornaments and the tucker of the bodice is of chiffon cloth which should also be used for the sash. A novelty In very smart and dressy evening gowns Is the difference be tween the two sleeves. One may be of the fabric used In the dress and an other of chiffon cloth or lace or net. One stunning model showed the right sleeve of the chiffon cloth in mous quetatre style to the elbow, where it ended In a tight band from which de pended a narrow Directolre scarf of , frost the maline rosette by sewing tiny iridescent beads. . Van, hanilcnma Vl n i T Ornaments made entirely of black maline. nightly studded with beads ana unisnea in center of tho rosette or bow with Ani.mant a tinndSOmS 1)11 1 1 On with a shank giving the same effect. If the button is steel use gieei oeaos wim IN PALE GREEN MESSALINE. a gold button, iridescent with a rhine- stone button ornament. I would say to every girl who wants to make Inexpensive Christmas gifts, take stock of the remnant bag and but ton box. then look at the novelties In dress accessories. You will be surprised at the latest combinations of lace, net, ribbon, odd buttons, bits of fringe, tas sels, etc.. which go to make up the very newest things. Everything you ever had left over from frocks and frills will count today. MARY DEAN. the chiffon cloth." The other sleeve was of the satin messaline draped and fin lshed witli a cap of pearls, woven In squares or diamonds like a Juliet cap Flame color is playing a very im portant role in both day and evening clothes. hole dresses are shown in this hue which Is a cross between geranium pink and an orange, but the best effects are secured by combining it with other colors, notably London smoke. For young girls, under 14, wash frocks remain popular for Christmas parties and, there, is nothing prettier for the angnlar figure than the double flounce design shown in Figure D. Thta could also be developed in cashmere, lansdowne or any soft woolen fabric with trimming of embroidered bands, lace or velvet ribbons. Tt Is surprising what old colors chil dren are wearing this year even London smoke, dull, drab, browns and other subdued hues once sacred to their mothers. But tor evening or party use there is notning more youthful than white, delicate blue or pink. MARY DEAN. Good Form in Gifts for Christmas GOOD form and bad in Christmas giving! . You never thought of It in Just that light? Well, then, think of it now because the thought may save you heartache later. Many a pleasant friendship has been broken by ignorance of good form in gift-making. Many a social career has been nipped in the bud by a pres ent, illy chosen or wrongly sent. Perhaps you have always thought that Christmas sentiment justified any gift, large or small, but you are mis taken, and, believe me, the average American is apt to err on the side of generosity. More III feeling can- be caused by a too pretentious gift than ' a too humble one. For Instance, there is the wealthy friend of your family, to whom you brought letters of introduction when you came to town. She has not taken you into the bosom of her family, but occasionally at her very large and gen eral functions she has entertained you. Appreciating this and hoping for fu ture favors (what is the use of deny ing that we all hope for a continuance of good times and social attentions?) you scrape and save and study the shops to get the very biggest showing for your money, and send it to your social good angel. You choose something perfectly gor geous or her dressing table, a silver creation in a plush box. It look's very splendid in the Bhop or on the chiffon ier of your hall bedroom. But later you learn that your good angel has one of those new Ivory toilet sets which your silver trinket does not match! ,Or you select a gorgeously ebmrol- dered table cover or cushion-top. only to learn that she detests embroidered linen and is going in far leather fit tings or arts and crafts weaves. Either way, your gift is beyond your income and below her needs. Be sen sible. Show your knowledge of good form at Christmas time and send her a beautiful flower on Christmas morn ing, with a well-worded greeting, or the very newest book about which her world is Burely talking. Again, you may have some real friend whose purse is large and pleth oric. No doubt she will give you some thing very lovely, the cost of which will be double or triple your weekly Income. Do not try to" keep pace with her in Christmas giving, nor yet send an apology. But do select something that is sure to show that you think of he and her fads. Make your gift very personal. If you are rich, and you have some friend who has not only lost her money hut is extremely sensitive to boot, be very careful that your gift does not reflect your knowledge of her financial straits. Do not .send the obviously sen sible thing. Remember' that somehow she will manage to buy the necessary thing, while her heart still hungers for the dainty, the luxurious touches of life. Girls who -work for your living, do not give anything to your men em ployers. They will either be frankly amused or provoked. The -masculine attitude toward Christmas is peculiar. The men give to the One Woman be fore marriage and wife and children after marriage and are content. Girls, either in business or at home, do not give expensive gifts to men. even when engaged to them. To your fiance give something that will show your knowledge of his real self. If he has a fad, encourage It. Fads are healthy. To the camera fiend, any thing connected with his photographic work will be welcome. The bookworm will like books and desk and study fittings. The athletic chap likes good prints, gay cushions for his den. etc. But give no man jewelry until you are married to him. If a man's attentions have justified you in deciding that his attentions are matrimonial, this is no excuse for send ing him an expensive present Such a step may ruin your natrlmonlal chances. He may decide that you are angling for him, or worse still. that you have no idea of the vatue of money and would squander his earnings. The man s Christmas privileges are broader. To a girl he likes he can send almost any impersonal gift, flow ers, candy, music, books, pictures. To te girl he hopes to marry, he may send something more personal, a card case, purse or umbrella: but not until he is her acknowledged suitor does he select Jewelry. And even with our lax social relations today, no girl will ac cept presents of clothing' from either suitor or mere friend: A man-who has been well entertained by a married woman during the social Reason may send her, at Christmas, fiowersv a book or something equally impersonaj. with a note which shows very clearly that he Is paying the debt of guest to hostess with real pleasure. And finally, do up your Christmas parcels with exquisite care. A sloppily tied and 'wrapped gift is an Insult to its recipient. Every trace of price-) mark must be removed. Always send gifts by messenger or mall, never de liver them in person. PRUDENCE STA3TDISH. What tlie Bridegroom Resents. . New York Times. "Even the English language emphasizes the insignificance of a man at his own wedding.'' said the prospective bride groom disconsolately. "There Isn't an in dependent word to designate him. He is Evening Coat of Coral Satin Cashmere. merely called the groom of the bride, as if he were Just about on a level with the bridesmaids and a little below the maid of honor. Best man, of course, means the bridegroom's best man, but the phrase itself tends to exalt this individual at the expense of his superior. "Then there s no adjective to describe what pertains to the male, half of the af fair. You can't speak of the 'bride groomal' trousers or necktie. On the other hand, 'bridal' applies not only to the possessions or the girl, but to what relates to both of them equally, like the trip and the bridal chamber. The verv words, 'matrimony' and 'matrimonial' are from the feminine side only. 'Patrimony' has nothing; to do with the nuptials." I I. -I -I. ! I II. II I 1 " I 1 Beauty Hints for Christmas Debutants NO matter how regular and classic the features of a young girl may be, unless her complexion is like wise perfect, the, effect will not be a pleasing one. Broad and sweeping rules will not cure every Individual 111. but If the average girl who is Just coming EFFECTIVE PARTY FROCK FOR A THIN GIRL. out into society would follow the recipe of the famous beauty, Lilly Langtry, she would help nature a great deal. The recipe she gives is "Work, sunshine, ex ercise, soap and water, plain food, fresh air and cheerfulness." Simple enough. The Results of IN all this 'whirlwind of discussion of the pros and cons, the ways and means, of industrial education throughout the country, there has been much use of the terms youtli and young people, but comparatively little specific mention of girls and young women. That those interested in the present movement intend to build on an elaborate system of industrial edu cation for our boys and men alone no serious-minded person has for a mo ment believed. But some little appre hension has been felt by those espe cially Interested In the future of our working girls that the problem of pro viding them with a thorough prepara tion for breadwinning in the1 best of the trades would become a side issue instead of a fundamental part of the general movement. While parents have not hesitated to push out Into the mad scramble their daughters as well as their sons, and have received toward the support of their homes the small earnings of the former as well as those of the latter, yet apparently the matter of special trade instruction for their daughters has been given scant attention by them. These conditions have been largely respon sible for the existing feeling that in dustrial education for women Is not a critical issue. But judging by the ex periences of the Boston Trade School for Girls, when fathers and mothers realize that educators and philanthro pists believe in training the hands and brain of the girls as well as of the boy, they will prove most enthusiastic supporters of any attempt to bring this about. The Boston Trade School for Girls, successful from the start, has been literally besieged by mothers begging to have their daughters put upon the waiting list, and asking why there are not more such schools for girls as there are for boys. The unfortunate attitude of many prominent persons, chiefly men, has been that of benevolent toleration" of the presence of girls and women in business and in the trades. That thev are there and there to remain, they do not deny; but many reard the wage earning years of a woman's life as merely a brief - period a pin-monev earning period of time to be followed ' in most cases by that, of the house- I isn't it as far as it goes, and I grant you it covers a wide field, but there are other Ills. For instance, the girl who goes t a dance is often bothered by "ugly locks that never will stay in place. These stray locks at the ears and at the back of the neck detract from an otherwise well-groomed girl. Of course, they should be brushed in place every night with fifty strokes, but on the night of the dance a little brilliantlne can be blushed on them and will go far to wards holding them in bondage. For Industrial Education for Girls wife. And therefore why should girls have special training for a few years' use? One is constantly surprised at this feeling .on the part of men who are otherwise broad-minded and far sighted. Throughout the United States, except for a few such Isolated schools as the Manhattan Trade School for Girls and tho Hebrew Technical School for Girls in New York City, the Lewis Institute in Chicago, the Hampton Institute and the Boston Trade School for Girls, there has been and still are practically no trade schools for girls. If the intentions of Superin tendent Cooley, of Chicago, are cori-ectly reported, Chicago Is likely soon to have established one or more so-called "techni cal high schools" for girls, which will be an encouraging move in the right direc tion. With praiseworthy zeal and with the best of Intentions, Young Women's Chris tian Associations, settlements and various charitable enterprises have for many years been conducting Winter classes in dressmaking, millinery and sometimes cooking and nursing. But the object of these courses has not been to give the girls the thorough training in any one of the subjects that would take the place of an apprenticeship served in an actual workshop. To secure admittance to these classes 'one has had only to become a member of the association or society and pay the small fees. At least ten different milliners and dressmakers of Boston were questioned as to the kind of training they considered it. desirable for girls to have received before they came into their shops. The replies of all were practlcaliy the same as that of the forewoman of the suit-making department of one of Bos ton's most exclusive department stores. She was not Inclined to argue the ques tion at all, but declared emphatically: "I don't want girls who have been to dress making classes. They haven't learned anything really useful. I'd rather take on a bright, ambitious girl who has had no experience whatever. She is usually willing to begin at the beginning and learn according to our methods. The other girl believes that there Is no need of beginning with simple seams." Such remarks did not apply of course to such instruction as that given by the Boston Trade School for Girls. It is not surprising that these evening classes conducted by philanthropic socle- mula for a good and simple brilliantine has recently been published In these columns, but I will gladly furnish it to any reader who did not keep it upon receipt of stamped and self-addressed envelope. 'Then. too. there is the girl with a per fect complexion, curly locks and dainty gowns, but with an ugly streak around the neck, caused by wearing lush., tisht collars. To destroy all traces of such a disfiguring streak about the neck tho fol lowing lotion should be applied two or three times a day until it Is bleached out. First bathe the neck in quite hot water, and then apply the lotion. Rose water. 2 ounces: boric acid. 1 dram and distilled witch hazel, 2 ounces. Since ear-rings have come into vogue again it brings the ears into much greater prominence, and the girl who wants to appear well at night under a brilliant white light will tint the lobes of her ears Just a little. Perhaps liquid rouge Is best for this. It can be ap plied rather freely as the lobe of a healthy ear Is often very pink. And then there is the girl who suffers from extremely red ears and nose and the one great remedy for this Is a plain, very simple diet and exercise which produce better circulation. The red ear can be softened in color by rubbing first with a little cold cream, working it into the flesh, and then adding a goodly coat of powder. And now we have come to the ono great accessory' of the complexion powder. Cheap powder is always an expensive investment. The best is none too good. so economize on your ii-e cream sodas and buy a reliable powder made by a reputable firm about 75 cents or a dollar a box is an avoraco price. In making a selection of powder you must match the complexion exactly and you will find that it comes in threo or four shades. The pink and white girl will look ghastly If she buys a brunette powder, and vice versa. And remember that it takes time and sumo sense of the artistic to apply it. The first step Is to apply cold cream to the skin and rub it in well, then wipe off the face with a bit of soft old linen. The best powder puff is made of lamb's wool, the down puff Is good for dust ing over the body not for applying powder to the face. Go over alt of the face thoroughly and then have another puff or soft piece of chamois, and lit erally work the powder Into the skin until it takes on a velvety sheen. Lastly powder the nose once more the noso will generally stand two coats of powder. Having applied the powder give some attention to the eyebrows and lashes. Make sure that they are free from ail traces of powder. A tiny brush should be used, dipped In cologne, and they should be brushed upward and outward. An eyebrow brush can be purchased at t-.ny druggist's. If the lips are pale and gray looking a harmless salve can be used, and will make a girl look 10 years younger. Liquid rouge is sometimes applied to the lips but it is not practical as the moisture of the Hps weakens it so that the color fades In less than an hour. A lip salve was published a few weeks ago. The young girl Just out In society should have no reason to use rouge, for her yeuth and her health should give her rosy cheeks. Let the tired mothers put a dash on at night to brighten up their faces, but the debutante should get along without it. However, there are cases where a girl is naturally very pale and at night under the artificial light she has shadows on her face, and such girls should apply a little rouge, well distributed. I think the most harm less of all rouge Is the liquid form, but it certainly will fade quicker than tho paste. If rouge is applied it should be done immediately after the cold cream ha's been rubbed into the skin, and before the powder is applied. And If you use it. do so judiciously. Don't put it on in one perfectly round spot, but scatter it just as nature does. The girl with the high cheek bone and hollow cheeks should apply it low and not up to the temples, while the girl with 'tho long thin face should rouge well up on the cheek bones and over the temple, trying to give a broader effect. Have a good light over your dressing table. Sit down and take plenty of time and use plenty of common sense as well as cosmetics. At night when tho party is over and you are once more before the mirror, cover the face with cold cream and take off all traces of powder, rouge and salves. Then wash the face in warm water and soap, and dry thoroughly, and once more apply cold cream, leaving on a thin coating of it over night. KATHF.RINF. MORTON. ties and institutions have failed to offer the prospective wage-earner the proper preparation for earning her living. A suf ficient foundation in millinery or dress making cannot be obtained by learning to trim two or three hats or to make a few dresses. These institutions have not had the necessary funds to secure adequate equipment for such work. To provide, trade Instruction which shall be both practical and thorough for girls as well as for boys is one of the prob lems of the Massachusetts Commission on Industrial Education, and because in Mas sachusetts so little lias been done the work will seem to proceed slowly. When the commission was originally appointed the fact that Mrs. Mary Morton Kehew was one of Its members Indicated that In struction for women would receive due attention. Unfortunately, Mrs. Kehew was early forced to resign on account of ill health, but Professor Emily Balch, of Wellcsley College, who has since been appointed as the woman member of the commission, is thoroughly alive to the needs of the women in the trades. With such additional talent as Miss Jlorence Marshall, who has recently,, been appoint ed by the commission to have charge of the women's department of the state work, the commission is well equipped to carry out its plans for pushing trade in struction for girls. Outside of Boston, the Industrial train ing opportunities for women are confined, so far as are known, to Cambridge, where there are evening classes in millinery and dressmaking; to Taunton, where there is evening instruction in dressmaking; to Montague and Northampton, where do mestic science and dairy courses are open to women. The instruction In all of these schools is free. Non-resident students who wish to attend the courses at Mon tague or Northampton may also attend as free pupils the tuition fees being paid by the towns in which they live. Along just what lines Miss Marshall will recommend that industrial instruc tion for women be made first. It Is too early to know. But if we may take tho statements in her report on "Industrial Training for Women." which was issued as Bulletin No. 4 in the special publica tions of the "National Society for the Promotion of Industrial Education," to apply to Boston as well as to the country as a whole, the "needle Industries" are tho most promising for women. Tlie