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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Oct. 25, 1908)
THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX. PORTLAND. OCTOBER 25, 1908 wp in MINK COAT AND MUFF. Making and Marring of Formulas A LTHOl'GH 11 druggists keep pro prietary creams aim lotions, wn.cn thcv sell at reasonable prices. there is a great satisfaction In mixing formulas at home, because you are sure of the ingredients, and it Is really dainty work. If directions are followed close ly and common sense used in large doses, the results will generally be sat isfactory, but It ingredients are thrown together carelessly without any regard o assimilation, the results are disas trous. There Is undoubtedly a knack in work ing out formulas at home, just as there re successful cake bakers and those who turn out a' pan of heavy sweet ened dough. The old colored mammy who had made beaten biscuits all her l.fe. when asked how she made ttxm. said: "Why. I Just takes 'em and I makes 'em." but she knew how to take 'em to make 'cm successfully. Fat of some kind Is the basis of all reams, as this article is needed to feed the pores. All creams are trouble pome to make, because they require careful mixing and incessant beating. In making all creams and emulsions, the manner of manipulation is about the same. The fats and the oils must bo mixed together and they should be melted, not put over the fire and boiled. Take for Instance the following formu la: Kentucky Told Cream. Here is a fnc .cream which I can recommend thoroughly because It contains no ani mal fat to Induce a growth of hair on the face. Rose water. 4 ounces; almond oil. ounces; spermaceti. 1 ounce; white wax I ounce; tincture of benioin. 1 drachm. Into a double boiler put the almond rll. and add to it the white wax and spermaceti, which have been chopped fine. Let these melt, but not boll. The water In the lower vessel must Just simmer, never holL Turn them out into a bowl and beat- briskly with an egg Water or a fork, scraping down the slides of the bowl constantly, and keen on heating ntll it Is all creamed and absolutely smooth. When the mixture has cooled, add the rose water and the benzoin, drop by drop, heating mean while without ceasing until the Occam 1a quite cold. If the odor of rosewater 1s not liked, you can substitute lilac or violet water In Us place. Oxide of Zinc ointment Is perhaps one of the best cure-alls that could be found in the family medicine closet. It can be made at home, but care must be taken 1n the mixing. It Is very healing for anr sores upon the face or hands, 1t is excellent for an Itchy scalp, and Is Invaluable In cases of scalds and burns. Spermaceti. l"i ounces; whito wax x, ounce: almond oil. pint; and suf ficient quantity of oxide of sine As in making th Kentucky cream, the oil must be put In double boiler and the spermaceti and white wax added In flne Jv chopped pieces. When melted they mut he beaten in a bowl, until a per pect assimilation is procured. Now tarofullv measure. and to every six farts t:ike one part of oxide of xlnc in a fine powder. Take one-quarter of the ointment and with a wooden paddle or small wooden spoon rub the xinc thor oughly .into It. then add the remainder of the ointment little by little until all mixed, but stir constantly until cold. All creams and pomades should be put up in small porcelain or glass jars, which ran be closed tightly to exclude the air. else they will become rancid and unfit for use. I.ast week I received a letter from correspondent saying. "I have before rr.e your directions for steaming the face." but it is so much trouble can't I t In front of the open fi-e Instead. Won't this open the poresr In that Vitr lies the secret of all failures In king to better your appearance it Is too much trouble, too much trouble to xnlx the formulas, too much trouble to apply them! In the Winter time, the dressing table of all smart women should boast of a good Hp salve. Here Is a simple formu ls which any woman- can make at home with the knowledge that its ingredients are harmless and pure. Bpermai ii unam. .... .......v. . . earn of Peru. 15 grains: alkanet-root. 15 grains: oil of cloves. 5 drops. Tut the ointment in a double boiler and add the alkar.et-root. Let this simmer at the ill .l...na nnacihl. IimI until ft hlUI he- come a deep rose color, then strain it through a medium coarse strainer. Iet It get slightly cool, and stir in slowly the Balsam, beat It up thoroughly and then stand aside for a few minutes to settle in the bottom of the bowl. Pour off the clear portion, and to the re mainder in the bowl beat in the oil of cloves, drop by drop, stirring or beat ing constantly for several minutes. Last week we published a formula for Herb Tea Lotion with directions to be made in an iron pot. Already I nave a letter saying, "I have no iron pot. Won't a porcelain one do as well?" Not only will it not do "as well." but .a porcelain pot will not do at alL Per haps a simpler home remedy for dark ening the hair Is as follows: Into an iron pot (absolutely no other kind will do) put a goodly measure of potato par ings, and cover them with cold water. Let them come to a boll slowly, and continue to boil until soft and mushy. Strain the water through cheesecloth, and when cold apply to the hair with an old brush, letting the lotion dry on the hair in the sunlight. This will dis color the part In the hair, and care should be taken to scrub the "art clean before the lotion dries on. In making all coloring matter, wear old kid gloves or rubber ones, for they will stain the hands. The're are two ways of extracting the Juice from cucumbers an Ingredient with great natural whitening powers for the complexion. One way Is to select cucumbers ripe enough for table use. Cut them and then chop them very fine, and ftnallv pound them to a paste. Fill a cheesecloth jelly bag with this pulp and squeeze out the Juice. The second manner Is to slice the cucumbers very thin, skin and all. and put them in a porcelain stew nan. Add Just a lit tle water to them and let them simmer gentlv for a long time, until soft and mushy. Strain them first through a hair sieve, and then through a jelly bag. KATHERINE MORTON. Tasty Keel pes for Invalids. Egg Lemonade Beat the yolks of two fresh eggs until very light, add the strained Juice of two lemons and sugar enough to suit the taste. Fill a large glass with shaved Ice. Now beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth and add to the mixture, add a little water to the shaved ice. then the egg and lemon. Serve Immediately. This Is very nourishing. Pulled Bread Bake ordinary yeast bread In the shape of long, narrow French loaves. When cool but not en tirely cold, cut lengthwise through the center, then with two forks scoop or pull the bread out of the crust and. still using the two forks, pull It apart In strips, six or seven Inches long and an Inch or more In width and thick ness. Line a large baking pan with brown paper and arrange the strips of bread on this, rough and crinkled edges uppermost. Set in the oven with the door partly open until It dries out thoroughly, then close the door until the bread turns golden brown. Warm each time before serving. This Is much lfke zwieback, but its odd shape appeals to the invalid. Koumiss Take two quarts of milk. S tablespoons of granulated sugar. 2 tablespoons of water and one-third cake of yeast. Put the milk In a dou ble boiler, but do not let It boil. Just get lukewarm. Put the sugar and water Into a pan and stir until It melts and let it boil two or three minutes. Dissolve the yeast In two tablespoons of the warm milk, then add the syrup to the milk, then the yeast, which should be poured through a strainer. Stir all thoroughly. Bottle and cork tightly. Stand In a warm place for 12 hours. . Then turn bottles on side and put In the refrigerator for 12 hours, when they will be ready to serve. "When Buying Shoes. It is said that people should never go In the early morning to buy shoes, for the feet are then smaller than they are at any other time of the day. Later the feet are the maximum size, owing to walking and standing. Many people do not agree with this, for they think that later in the day. when shoes have been worn, the feet contract. However, try on shoes at both times morning and after noon. Then they -will be sure to fit. Fetching str TJHS and the woman'' might be ft v.t.A i 1 1 a fnr .thU article on I the wise selection of cold-defy- fti accessories for women, because so few women choose furs with discretion and good taste. The design of the gar ment must fit the height and weight of the women, the color must harmonize with her complexion, hair and eyes, and future of the fur. the length of hair. must soften lines and ansles, not empha sise physical defects. T. KAirin with no matter what Dame Fashion's dictates, bear In mind that your face, as framed by the lurs, ana your figure as draped by them are more important than any other aspect of fur wearing. Buy funs that will prove a ...ui.. vnn,A .),. far and fur ffar- IDLlUUfi . i .' ' ' w --- , ments that will give height and grace to the figure, not aetraci mcrri.um. Ermine fur Is essentially xuo UI t3vJ skin, and Is not for the girl or woman who can afford but one set. Never buy ermine until you have supplil yourself with furs for wear -with your tailored suits. Ermine must be combined with silk, velvet or a dressy satin-finished cloth costume. Chinchilla is.one of the most trying of skins. It demands an almost perfect complexion, or exquisite coloring, and Is calculated to show up physical defects mercilessly. Raccoon and other rough, shaggy furs are for the outdoor girl exclusively, the athletic girl. th fair motorist. Sealskin, like sable. Is the fur of the well-to-do. Both of these skins have ad vanced tremendously In price, but they are always the best of Investments. Seal- Hints for the PACE all dresses with a bias facing- of cheap broadcloth or flannel or any wooln cloth that, can be pinked at the tpp. This weights the dress down, makes It cling to the feet and keeps the entire dress In proper place. No dust ruffles are used this season. Dresses that are made of sof ma terials, such as crepe, louslne, etc and which have no drop skirts In them, should be lined throughout with mous seline de sole, from top to hem. Fancy cloth dresses are made with no drop skirt In them, but the walsc lining should be extremely long, many of them reaching almost to the knees. Almost -all linings this season are of satin or some satin- finish material. Taffeta has taken a back seat. Drop skirts have no pleating on them. They are very narrow. Those with a train measure less than four yards. - ' Some Romances of the IF the full story of the card table could bo written It would surely be the most startling revelation of human cupidity ever published, and almost every page of it would be marked by some Incident which would outstrip fiction. When Louis XV. was at the card table the fascination of the game made him absolutely dead to aU externals, and even to decency and humanity. On one oc casion, says the London Tit Bits, when he was playing for heavr vBtakes'.."e f his opponents, overcome by excitement, collapsed In his chair in a lit of apoplexy. His Majesty affected to ignore the inci dent until someone exclaimed, "M. de Chauvelln Is ill!" 111? retorted e King, casting a carelets glance at the stricken man; "he is dead. Take him away; spades are trumps, gentlemen! Bquallv weird Is a story Goldsmith tells When the clergyman arrived to prepare a lady parishioner, who had a passion tor gambling, for he-r approaching death, the lady, after listening for a short time to his exhortation, exclaimed. That's enough! Now let us have a game of cards " To humor her the parson con sented to play. The dying woman won all his money, and had Just suggested playing for her funeral fee when she fell back and expired. In the early years of the last century a whist club, composed largely of clergy men, used to meet in the back room of a barber's shop in a Somersetshire town. On one occasion, so the story runs, when four of the club members were acting -as Purs for Fair Faces skin is In greater vogue today than It has been In five or six years. Fox fur of all sorts Is In demand. In cluding black, blue, brown and white. Wild fox Is the dress fur for young girls of slender build, blue fox is apt to fade out a yellowish gray and demand redyeing. The natural toned brown skins are the best investment. In long coats for the fat purse, seal skin leads. Next comes pony skin and caracul, and for the medium-length Jack ets, semi-fitted or In Empire, Directoire and other up-to-date cuts, there is noth ing better than dark mink. Marten is much used for trimming coats or other fur, particularly for collars and cuffs. Marten and Mack fox seem to lead In the smaller fur pieces, but dark mink is always dependable and Is most fetching In the new envelope-shaped or rug muffs. In these the skins are sown together in full lengths with a head and paws at one end, tails and paws at the other. For the long boa and very large muff, rug or envelope-shaped, the tall woman chooses either fox or lynx. Both the tall woman and the very MATCHING SCARFS AND MUFFS. small, girlish person can wear the very large furs with long hair, the boas that almost touch the ground, the muffs that make you think of revolutionary-day portraits. The short, girlish figure can also be set oft by very small fur pieces, like fur cravats, tippets, etc. But the woman of medium height must avoid the long-haired furs and the massive boa and muff effects, as she will lose some height, yet lack the petite air of her tiny sister who Is at once demure and kitten ish In big furs. The stout woman must avoid all cape effects in long-haired fur so becoming to her tall, slender girl friend. For her Cip-to-T)ate Much panel trimming Is used on the back of gowns this season. When a panel Is made in- thin material and attached to the back of a gown, it should be lined all the way down with flannel, and tacked to the drop skirt to keep It In place. These pan els or box pleats start about three inches above the waist line. Almost all draped skirts have a bias seam down the front. Or, If this is not desired, then there must be a seam under each arm, running from the arm pit to the bottom of the skirt. When these under-arm seams are used, the line down the front should be straight. Whalebones In the waists are not sprung as they were. They should be sewed In without stretching the waist underneath. Do not run the bones far below the waist line, as they will show through the dress where they end at the hip line. In using featherbone, be sure to bend the bone In toward the figure so that the end does not show. For stout figures, use avery large hook and eye on the waist linings. pallbearers at the funeral of a reverend brother, some delay occurred and the coffin was set down In th'e chancel. One of them . produced a pack of cards and suggested a rubber. The coffin served the purpose of a table, and the players were deeply Immersed in the game when the sexton arrived to announce that everything was at last ready. Mazarin's passion for gambling was so strong even in death that he played cards to the very end. when he was so weak that they had to be held for him; and the "Merry Monarch" spent his last Sunday on earth playing at basset around a large table with his great courtiers and other dissolute persons and with a bank of at least 2000 before him. The curious fascination cards possess for their devotees is Illustrated by the fol lowing story of Lord Granville, at the time our Ambassador to France. One afternoon when he was about to return to Paris he repaired to Graham's to have a farewell game of whist, ordering his carriage to be at the door at 4. When II arrived he was much too deep In the game to be disturbed. At 10 o'clock he sent out to say that he was not ready and that the horses had better be changed. Six hours later the same message was sent out and twice more the waiting horses were changed before he consented to leave the table, after losing 10.000. An equally remarkable story Is told of George Payne, the great turf plunger of 70 years ago. On one occasion he sat down at Limmer's Hotel to play cards with Lord Albert Denison. later the first Lord Londesborough. Hour after hour there Is nothing better than a neok piece of medium length, rather narrow, with a group of small heads and saucy paws falling forward over her right shoulder, and the longer ends with tails and paws falling backward over her left shoulder. The fussy fur and lace muffs and neok pieces which enjoyed such a vogue last season seem to have disappeared, and with them, let us hope, the custom of fastening artificial violets or American beauty roses to muffs. For outlining dressy muffs and neck pieces, there Is a fine edging of match ing satin, pleated or quilled and for some of the remodeled coats in Di rectoire, Empire or other fussy designs, embroidered bandings of -very rich, col orings and much gold are used, also very ornate buttons. These coats are for the women who can have many fur garments, not the one who will choose a single warm coat or two fur sets at the most. One fancy set noted in an exclusive shop was a combination of ermine fur and smoke-colored marlbout in alter nate strips, a very dressy muff and stole. but' the plainer designs, especially in neck pieces and muffs, seem to prevail. A feature of the season is the general use of heads, tails and paws. Very few absolutely plain muffs or stoles are shown. Almost all are finished with quantities of the wee heads and paws, and very pretty they are. too. The new envelope is pointed, something like an exaggerated envelope flap. The rug muff opens out flat In the form of a long, narrow oblong, is lined with shir red satin, and is provided with a satin pocket, interlined with down. Into which the hands are slipped. The old pillow muff Is little seen. MART DEAN. Dressmaker Sleeves for all gowns are made of thin material, except In heavy cloth dresses. They must be shirred or tucked, but fit the arm very snugly like the old coat sleeve. In broadcloth they are made of the same material, the underarm piece plain, and the top piece shirred just a little. Collars have no points on them. They are quite high, however, finished with a stiff net pleating not soft chiffon. These pleatings are Vt or i inches high. There Is very little outside stitching on gowns this season. Even tlu heavy broadcloths are hemmed by hand. Nearly all gowns have a touch of black on them a black outline to the trimmings a few buttons a dash here or there. All imported gowns have a touch of It. -Buttons are much used. In covering the wooden molds, if the material is thin. It is best to cover them first with soft cloth. This prevents the hole In the mold showing through, and makes a softer button. MARY DEAN. Card Table passed: the game proceeded all through the night and long after day dawned, and It was not until an urgent message came to tell Lord Albert that his bride was waiting for him at the altar of St. George's, Hanover Square, that the cards were at last flung down. It was Lord Albert's wedding day and he met his bride 30.000 poorer than when he left her the previous day. One of the most romantic of gambling stories is told by Mr. Thlselton-Dyer of a plainly dressed stranger who once took his seat at a faro table, and after an ex traordinary run of luck succeeded in breaking the bank. "Heavens!" exclaim ed an old, infirm Austrian officer who had sat next to the. stranger, "the twen tieth part of your gains would make me the happiest man in the world!" "You shall have it then," answered the stranger, as he left the room. A servant speedily returned and pre sented the officer with the twentieth part of the bank, adding. "My master, sir. requires no answer." The successful stranger was soon discovered to be "ho other than the King of Prussia in dis guise. " At the Telephone. Chicago Tribune. Oh, haven't you stood at the telephone. The receiver In your hand. And pleaded with "Central" in humble tone. Persuasive, and meek, and bland. "Pleas ring 'em again. I can't stand here From now till the crack of doom?" And hain't the thins huzred In jour ear yt-r-r-r-r-r-r! Zoo-oo-oo-oom ! K-r-r-r-r-r-r! Zoo-oo-oo-oomJ I SMART Graceful Art of Being Appreciative NO one attribute in man or woman will go so far In making for social success as the art of being appre ciative. And this does not mean flattery nor gushing ways, but just, . at heart, truly appreciating courtesies, however small, and knowing Just how to express that appreciation. The world over, men and women love to be appreciated, to have their good points noted, their favors or kindnesses received with thanks, not accepted as a matter of course, and their hospitality enjoyed. In the great social game there are many persons, alas! 1.0th young and old, who accept all entertainment, all courtesies, as if these wers due them, simply because they are in the social swiln, and in time Intend to return them. The beautiful girl, thinks that the world will bow to her whether she ap preciates It or not. The rich girl knows she can repay social courtssies. And oft timca the homely girl of small purse is so tusy trying to keep up appearances that she fails to remember that graceful appreciation will cover a multitude of physical defects or the fact that her frocks are not quite up to date. "I do love to entertain Grace B ," re marked the mistress of a charming coun try residence. "'She always behaves as if she would ra,ther spend a week-end with me than with the King of England, and her bread and butter notes are de licious. I always read them aloud my husband is sure to get a laugh out of them." And Grace B is simply the apprecia tive girl. , Good form, etiquette or whatever you choose to label the hard and fast rules which govern our social life, is founded upon common sense and kindliness. The Instant you are foolish" or unkind, other wise ungracious, you are bound to break some rules of etiquette. To lack appre ciation and the proper method of ex pressing it, is a breach of good form be cause it Is both unkind and ungracious. For instance, a Western woman made a flying trip to visit Eastern relatives. Her headquarters were with her favorite sister, and she sent announcements of her arrival to other blood connections. A relative by marriage received one of these flurried notes and sent in reply a most gracious offer of hospitality. "We want you to stay with us as long as convenient," she wrote; "we have en larged the house, and there Is a lovely guestroom awaiting you, overlooking the avenue. Let me know your arrangements as soon as possible, so we can adjust our engagement calendars to give you the best possible time. You must be sure to see Mr. Drew in his new play, etc." After waiting several days, the would be hostess received the following curt note from the relative who had certainly courted an invitation: "I find I shall go home sooner than originally planned. I will be over Friday afternoon to call. Have the. children at home I want to see them." Not one word of appreciation for the invitation extended, not one word of re gret that it could not be accepted, not one thought that perhaps both mother and daughters might have social engage ments for the afternoon selected by the self-centered tourist. Of course, you say, she was hurried. True but there may come a day when she' will not be in a hurry, when she will want to stay a week or more with the same relatives whose courtesy she treated so cavalierly this time. And then what? Do you Imagine that another In vitation, exuding welcome, will be forth coming? Another woman who teaches In one of the country's greatest colleges for women found that she could secure leave of ab sence to enjoy part of the opera season In New York. She wrote to friends in that city with whom she had not com municated for years, and received In re sponse a gracious invitation to become their guest. She made her stay one long orgy of opera. She made no effort to ad Just herself to the family- or social life of her hostess. She talked music, read music and lived music every moment while she was In the home, and then dashed back to her college work. About two months later she sent a hasty scrawl to her hostess, apologizing for her tardi ness in announcing her safe return, "but you know how busy I am," she concluded. A few months later, her hostess wished a little commission executed in the col lege town, simply a little Investigation that might have occupied 15 or 20 min utes of her erstwhile guest's time. Six W ' l3 SET OF FOX. weeks after she wrote her a note, asking the favor, she received a postal card: "Sorry I could not look after that little matter for you, but I had an attack of the grip." Do you imagine that the teacher will . enjoy the hospitality of this woman's home when she wants another season of grand opera? A charmine young couple, noted for their gracious hospitality to young men and women, sent out cards announcing the birth of their first-born. A few weeks later I called on the proud young mother, and among other matters discussed were the dainty cards they had sent out. She said: "I never knew what a test of courtesy announcement cards could be. I was amazed at the number of our old friends who never sent us a word of congratu lation or the least acknowledgment of our cards. "We did not expect gifts for Babby klns, but we did expect that girls and men who had sat around our table- would at least sit up and take notice that our baby had come to town," I can see cuts made in her calling and entertaining list, can't you? And she is not vindictive, either. What is the use of entertaining men and women who care ' nothing for you? The world holds plenty of appreciative people. Don't forget that part when you feel too tired to write a bread-and-butter note, or pay a dinner call or drop a few lines of congratulation or condolence. Remember that the peo ple who will remember you are the ones who know you will be Interested in them and their affairs. -PRUDENCE STANDISH. Homo of Mary Anderson. Traveling through Worcestershire, England, by motor car, we stopped for lunch at a village called Broadway. "You are an American?" queried my host-at the inn. "Yes," I answered. "Why1?" "See- yonder cottage; that's the home of an American angel, as sweet a woman as ever lived, Mary An derson de Navarro." Court House Farm, the Navarro cot tage, is Just the home that an old gray head, who had known "our Mary" 25 years ago, would picture her as occupy ing in the meridian of her life. It Li nestling in trees, with flowers and lawns around it. creepers hiding the bricks and stones. It Is a rambling mass of buildings conveying every Idea of com fort, good taste, and beauty. Nearby lives F. D. Millet, the American artist, and Edwin Abbey and Alfred Parsons often join the Navarro household and share the long cross-country tramps of the husband' and wife. All the country, for miles around, knows Mary Anderson de Navarro, .and all the country loves her. She is the Fairy Godmother of the district, and while the poor and the sick adore her, about her hearth gather the artists and poets who live among the hills and woods of Worcestershire. To Help "With the Darning. A new device has been invented which aids the careful housewife at her weekly work of stocking darning. A woman with a large family receives such little helps with great thanksgiv ing, for perhaps there is no more an noying task in all the world than the darning of many pairs of dilapidated hosiery. The new device is half a papier mache egg hollowed out and lifted with a nickel cover, so that it serves to hold the darning cotton, needles ami thimble in fact, all the Implements that It takes for darning. Around the egg is a wire frame attached ; to a wooden handle. This is so arranged that it may be removed, the stocking slipped over the egg, the wire then placed again over this, so that the stocking is held ah solutely firm, and the darning may be done with the greatest of ease. At a glance it may be seen what a great help this would be to the house wife, and the introduction of the nov elty Is sure to be heralded by her with delight. To wash chamois gloves, put them on your hands and scrub them clean with a mild soap and warm water. Take them off and rinse. Into the last rinse water add a liberal tablcspoonful of olive oil that is a tablespoonful to a basin of water. Dry In the shade.
