The Sunday Oregonian., October 18, 1908, SECTION FOUR, Page 4, Image 38

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DRESS WAISTS OF MANY FABRICS SHOWN
IN ENDLESS VARIETY OF STYLE AND COLOR
.
IMPORTANT ITEM OF FEMININE APPAREL OFFERED IN LOCAL SHOPS AT PRICES TO SUIT EVERY PURSE
'BACK-RESTING
, ; FOR MEDIUM AND ,
SLEHDER FIGURES
"SECFREDUCIHG"
FOR EVERYTYPE OF
STOUT WOMEN
1
VJ Kr - M ; y p. f yy LI
I-'! '.vK',',"',. i srit-.-l ' r j-'i
Olt V " .'L;- I
NOT the rt lntreUns among the
many attractions lor tha feminine
aez no being shown by the local
merchants In their new Fall displays,
are the latest fashion In dress waists.
The dress waist by reason of its ready
adaptability and lt invaluable services
in emergency cases. Is one of the most
Important items of the feminine ward
robe and a highly- esteemed friend of
the woman whose pocketbook la too
lender for lavish Investment In full
evening costumes.
For informal dinners, theater parties,
and impromptu social affairs, the dain
ty little dress waist, when combined
with some well-fitting skirt In a har
monious tone and fabric, completes an
appropriate, becoming, and. attractive
costume, which can be worn under the
ordinary street coat, which may ..be
hurriedly donned for any unexpected
HttH social affair with satisfactory re
sults. The dres waists this year re of wide
variety, both In fashion and nif.ertal,
ant) come at figures suited to almost any
pocketbook, ranging from the simple, yet
dainty and effective little fancy waist In
plain or embroidered net. to elaborate
creations of fine lace, embroidery and
filmy chiffon, that run well up towards
the three figure mark.
A few representative waists, from the
extensive stock of one of the large
downtown department stores are shown
in the accompanying pictures.
Picture No. 1, which is of creamy
liberty satin, heavily embroidered In a
raised pattern of roses and foliage, is of
a richness and daintiness entirely lost to
the camera, and which con only be sug
gested by the reproduction. The body
of the wslst Is of a simple psttern, with
many fine plaits forming a yoke and hold
ing the fulness which flares out over the
b"t. displaying the rich raised em
broidery pattern, which covers the front
breadth from bust line well down the
belt. A touch of the embroidery Is shown
at the shoulder line-In the back, on either
aide of the fastenings, and the plrtita
extend down the full back lengths. A
feature of this waist Is the long mue
quiiaire sleeve, which terminates In a
point well out over the hand; narrow
horisontal plaits, encircling the sleeve
from wrist to a point well above the
elbow, give the musqultaire erfect so
trarked In the long-sleeved gloves of the
name.
A pretty little waist of sea-green net,
with a large embroidered dot. and mads
over silk of a slightly paler shade of
gren, is shown in No. 2. The short
yoke Is of finely tucked cream chiffon, 1
and a yoke pattern of green silk braid
and embroidery Joins the body of the
waist to this yoke. The sleeves are of
the new, scant style, with a narrow cuff
of the tucked chiffon, edged with the
green Silk braid.
One of the daintiest 01 ine new nei
Waists Is shown in Jo. 3. The net is
of the rather coarse mesh, in smoke
color, the breadths being made extremely
full, with knife plaits holding the fulness
nvee the hunt. The voke is daintily
fashioned of net embroidery and strips of
a rose tinted Persian novelty braid, about
an Inch wide. Thia pretty Persian touch
of blended color Is also used down the
front, with a double ruffle, the extreme
fulness of which adds a very dressy
effect from yoke to waist line. The
Persian embroidery is used on the long,
scant sleeves from shoulder to wrist,
and the pointed termination of the sleeve
Is finished with a tiny edging of creamy
lace. The collar is cut high, and-stiffly
boned at the back, the Persian em
broidery being combined with the net and
lace.
One of the more elaborate styles of
dress waist Is shown In No. A. which Is of
the Parisian cut and fashion. Over a
strong foundation slip of white silk,
this dainty creation of filmy, finely
tucked chiffon and transparent Valencien
nes, is builded. The yoke Is of the tucked
chiffon, the tucks running horizontally,
and bits of fine silk embroidery being ap
pllqued upon this chiffon, running out
from the collar to the bust lines. Around
this yoke, and completely encircling the
arms, a piece of rich, creamy satin, edged1
with French knots In black, forms a
smart little dividing line between the
chiffon and the lace ruffles, and the
walet below thle line, as well as the en
tire sleeves, are of the closely-placed,
fully gathered ruffles of the fine Valen
ciennes. A broad girdle of the satin, fin
ished with the French knots and stiffly
boned, gives this smart little bodice a
smart dip at the front and the modish
high waist effect at the back.
in the delicately tinted messalinea and
soft eatins there are many styles of dress
waist. One of the prettiest and smartest
of these Is shown in No. 6, which Is of
rich, wine-colored messallne. A full,
double ruffle -of creamy lace runs down
the front of this" waist, and this lace Is
also used as a ruff edging the extremely
high collar, which has swathlngs of the
messallne. with a saucy little bow at the
front. This waist opens down the front,
with tho distinguishing feature of numer
ous, closely-placed little brass buttons,
and these eame buttons are used on the
sleeve, which Is ellt from wrist to elbow
and bound with a narrow piping of soft
velvet the same shade as the messallne.
This style of sleeve Is one of latest and
smartest, according to the exclusive deal
ers, and will be much used in the waists
of this grade of fabrics.
ONE ACTRESS WHO REFUSES
TO SELL HER LIKENESS
Elizabeth Goodall, Jnnoesque Beauty of Theatrical Company, Consents,
However, to Pose for Gold Statne for Seattle Fair.
S1XCE Elizabeth Goodall. the stat
uesque comedienne. who play
Molly the nurse In "The Time, the
Place and the Girl." which comes to the
Hellig Theater next Wednesday night,
became prominently Identified In her
chosen profession, she has'refnsed oft
rtptated offers from - big . advertising
concerns throughout the country for
permission to use her picture to-advertise
their various wares. With her strik
ing beauty of face and form, her pic
ture Is much coveted by manufacturers
of face cream, "toilet articles, "tooth
powders, hair tonics etc. To all Jhese
proffers, some of which have been most
tempting, she has turned a deaf ear. de
claring that if she cannot win publicity
through her histrionic ability, her
praises can remain unsung.
Last season, while the company was
playing In New Orleans. Miss tioodall
was Interviewed by an agent of the
I'nlted States Treasury Department, who
wished to negotiate for the right to use
her profile to adorn the new tS) gold
piece, then about to be Issued. This offer
to srain wide publicity was declined.
The only proposal to which Miss Good
all has yet listened comes from the com
mission of the Alaska-Yukon-Paclflc ex
position, who have written her requesting
her to pose for the gnld statue, to repre
sent the territories at the . exposition in
Seattle In W. This offer she will con
alder, not because of the notoriety thus
offered, but owing to the fact that she Is
a native daughter of Washington and
feels that she owes this recognition to her
state.
In choosing Miss GoodaJU the commla
sion has shown careful and considerate
Judgment, as well as excellent taste; for
a glance at the accompanying picture
shows that her likeness so closely re
sembles the face of the Goddess of Ub
ertv that the similarity Is startling.
This is Miss Goodall s second visit to
this cltr with "The Time, the Place and
ine Girl' Company, having appeared here
N f
. tx. - ' '' ' : i I
'I v " t i- " f
t
Mint Elisabeth Goodall, of "The
Time, the Place the Girl"
Compear.
In the same role last season, when her
work received most laudatory encomiums
from tlie press.
NOW LEADS SIMPLE LIFE
Duchess of Marlborough Rents Mod
est House at Dunkirk.
LONDON. Oct. 17 The Duchess of
Marlborough, who was Miss Consuelo
Dunkirk a picturesque little village be
tween Canterbury and Farversham. Five
miles from the nearest railway station
the village Itself Is on the top of Bough
ton Hill, and Berkeley, the quiet country
retreat chosen by the Duchess, Is on
some of the highest land In the country
and commands a glorious view of the
hop gardens, with the blue waters of the
Channel In the distance.
An old-fashioned white brick house
which bear signs of having been added
to from time to time, is Berkeley, with
its air of unobtrusive comfort is a strik
ing contrast to Blenheim or Sunderland
House in Mayfalr. It is furnished
throughout in a solidly comfortable style.
The Duchess keeps early hours at her
new country home and the day Is spent
In motoring, driving. Walking and read
ing. Lord Ivor Churchill,, the 10-year-old
younger son of the Duchess Is her con
stant companion. It was, Indeed, on his
account that the Duchess decided to lease
the house on the hill top for the next
two years. During the Summer
months, tKe little Marquis of Blandford
and his younger brother Lord Ivor stayed
at Broadstalrs. Since her arrival at
Dunkirk the Duchess has made several
expeditions to the hop gardens, where the
harvest is Just gathered In. Her In
terest In social work is very deep as
harassed dwellers In East and South Lon
don can testify and many of the . poor
"hoppers" recognized her In the fields.
RETURNS AUTHOR-COMPOSERS
RECEIVE FOR THEIR WORKS
George M. Cohan's Income PerhapB the Largest of Any of the Latter-Day
Writers Strikes Popular Chord.
a GREAT deal of late has been
written and published about the
amount of money author-composers
have received for their works, topic
having been placed uppermost in the
minds of the theatrical writers by some
one who has said that Lehar, the com
poser of the "Merry Widow," is already
a millionaire in crowns and will doubt
less be a millionaire In dollars before that
very attractive Viennese operetta ceases
to entrance the theater-going: public. All
this talk has Induced C. A. Bratter, of
the Berlin Tageblatt, to compare the
profits of composers .o our days with
those of their predecessors. Mr. Bratter
recalls the familiar facts that Mozart,
Schubert and Lortstng practically per
ished - because of insufficient return, for
their exhausting tolls. Morart got only
226 florins for his "Don. Juan"score,' and
100 ducats for his . "Figaro." Schubert
often bad to write an immortal song and
sell It for 20 cents' before he could order
Ms dinner. " His clothes were often
patched. Weber got only SO Frtedrichador
tor his "FTeischutr." one of the most
successful operas ever ' written. ' After It
had SO performances In Berlin, which
yielded 3.mo thalers. the manager gen
erously offered him an extra 100, thalers.
Weber Indignantly refused this. "Being
a German." he said,- bitterly, "what can
I expect?" Lortxing. whose popularity In
Vanderbllt has gone to live the "simple
life" among farmers and hopgrowers at
Germany was great while he lived, and
Is great still, got an average of 12 Iouls
dor for each opera, and was overjoyed to
get 20 loulsdor In Hamburg for his "Un
dCne," which made a rich man of the
manager who bought It,
As we approach more recent times, we
find the composers on the whole much
better rewarded. Brahms died worth
flOO.000. Beethoven was tolerably well
off in the latter years of his career, and
If Mendelssohn had not begun rich, his
works would have made him so. Meyer
beer earned piles of money, and so did
Offenbach, Strauss, the waltz king, and
many others, including Victor Herbert
and John Philip Sousa. Among the com
posers of serious operas In our time who
have become wealthy are Humperdtnck,
Richard Strauss, D'Albert, Mascagnl,
he of the famous "Cavallerla Rustlcana"
fame, Puccini, Thomas, Gounod, Massenet,
and several others.' Wagner's operas
have yielded many millions of dollars,
mostly. It is true, since his death. Verdi's
operas yielded millions while he lived and
some of them are as profitable today as
they were when first written.
It Is doubtful, however. If there" lives
an author-composer today, or has lived
during the last half century, who has
and Is deriving as much money for labor
performed In the music-writing line as
Not mere "cheapness,"
but the best value for your
money ' -
THAT'S TRUE ECONOMY
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contain at least a dollar's worth
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THA T'S TRUE ECONOMY
Every Nemo Corset has the
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"
rg'3i(f'3.
that young author-composer, George M.
Cohan. It may not be generally known,
but as Voung as he Is, Mr. Cohan cat!
today write his check for $1,000,000 and
have it cashed without a great deal of
trouble. It la true that all this money
was not derived from his pen alone, but
It was derived as a result of his brain,
i v. 1 .mKHi, no. TUfr Pnhan hpsan
CVI1U li.a iiu.u.. - ,
by writing sketches, and Incidentally ad- .
ding a little music to the sketches as they I
were nresented on the stage. All his
music had a catchy, attractive ring to
It and soon became popular. When he
flrst presented "The Governor's Son"
there was a song or two In the piece that
attracted attention. His "Running for
Office" was another theatrical offering
that was eminently successful. "The
Honeymooners," another 'piece by the
same author, has been a stage success
for three seasons, and had the distinction
of pleasing thousands of theater-goer
on the roof of the New Amsterdam
Theater in Xew York an entire Bummer
season. "Little Johnny Jones." "Forty
five Minutes from Broadway," "Fifty
Miles From Boston," "The Talk of New
York." "The Yankee Prince," Cohan's
Minstrels, "An American Idea" are all
from the Cohan pen. Bach end every
one have and are turning into the Cohan
treasury thousands of dollars every week
and from the royalties received from the
songs which Mr. Cohan has since put
Into each piece his Income has been
variously estimated at from WOOD to J7000
a week. There are several selections in
The Honeymooners" which pay Mr.
Cohan handsomely, one of these having
already him $15,000.
Mr. Cohan Is at present working on' a
new piece which he says will totally
eclipse anj-thlng In the theatrical line he
ha yet produced. This ' new piece is
scheduled for its initial production short
ly after the holidays and Mr. Cohan
promises a performance In which fully
130 people will be seen and which will
Include in .the musical . line everything
from minstrel songs to grand opera se
lections, every selection being from the
young author-composer's facile pen. This
one musical piece alone will, it Is thought
make a fortune for its author. It might
be well to mention that George M. Cohan
Is an Irishman, and his charitable con
tributions amount to a considerable sum
every year. It's a way the Irish have.
STRIKES ATARMY'S FOES
French Government Sends Ardent
Anti-Militarists to Prison.
PARIS, Oct. 17. (Special.) To put. an
end to the violent attacks upon the
French army which are destroying all dis
cipline two very militant anti-militarists
M. Victor Merio and M. Arista Dellannoy
have Just been sentenced to the maximum
penalty of one year's Imprisonment at
hard labor and a fine of $600 each. In a
Paris illustrated paper they had repre
sented General d'Amade, chief of the ex
peditionary forces in Morocco, dressed as
a butcher with his hands covered with
blood, and surrounded by a heap of
dead bodies. M. Dellannoy had made the
drawing and M. Merlo, who, by the way,
is a radical Socialist Senator of the Var,
had written lurid comments on the pic
ture. M. Marcel Sembat. counsel for M. Merio
delivered an impassioned appeal to the
Jury to acquit his client and at the same
time Indulged In a fierce attack on the
government's action In Morocco. But the
Jury could not be moved to sympathy
with the anti-militarist agitation and re
turned a severe verdict of guilty without
even extenuating circumstances.
As a last resort counsel asked for the
application of the first offenders' act
which the court In Its turn also refused.
Portland Girl Writes Sketch.
The many friends of MiBS Virginia
Drew Trescott will be pleased to learn
that not only is she a well-known
actress, but that she has lately
achieved a brilliant success as a
writer. Her sketch, "A Man of the
People," has attracted much attention
in the East.' It deals with capital and
labor. Miss Trescott has given to the
sketch individuality, and her Portland
friends hope that the act' may . be
brought here this season. ... Mr. Mel
bourne MacDowell appears as "The
Man of the People."
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