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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Oct. 4, 1908)
THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX. PORTLAND, OCTOBER 4, 1908. i ' - iii " ; ' ill 77Z7 Length and Line in the Latest Modes fyW life ffw BROWN SATIN IN TAILORED STYLE. USEFUL SUIT IN HERRINGBONE. TIMELY TRINKETS OF DRESS, TUB KtHPT thought which strikes the woman of snuill Income in considering mollis for Winter raiment In thr Important-p of length and line. Height, real or afumod, she must have. And limn must he the perfection of straight!)? anil slimiicsa. This means paving for gro.l lines. clone are the voluptuous curves. swrtllr.g hips and rounded bust and shoulders. To look at faahlnn drawings and frshion figure in amart shop windows, the inexperienced woman may well think that the whole feminine world has gone a-hantlng. And truly it has itrown wondrous, thinner! Hut where natural vllmncss, is not at tainable in the short time allowed to ad just the figure to incoming fashion, the cortiere is Killing in her golden work and women are paying froin J40 to l for corsets whose power lies In reducing the hip an Inch or more. The corset can do wonders In simulating slrtndernen. and next to that conies well-chosen under wear, finely wrought tights for all stout figures, and the new combination gar ments, two pieces in one with flounces only at the knees, for the naturally slen der figure. The new (town of whatever period sug gests the absolute elimination of hips. Teachers of physical culture are giving special course to reduce hips, .but a good corsetiere will secure more prompt re sults. And the cut of the gown or coat will do still more. This Is a season of rare opportunities for the tailor or mo diste who really knows how to give straight line to rotund figures., for she can name her own price and get It. The up-to-date figure Is practically the same width from shoulders to hips, the nar rower the better. At the hips, the line begins to run In. until around the feet, in the case of house, calling and evening gown, the long train seems to twiat around, narrow and snake-like. These long, plain skirts are first aids to stout women in securing length of line. Kobhed of her distinct belt or irdle line, with the waist line run up under the bust, with perfect harmony from throat to hem of skirt in coloring, and absolute ly no break the entire length of the frock. she assumes a height and slenderness Jhat she does not possess. On the other hand, she must strenuously avoid draped effects over hips and bust. These are shown In the so-called classical models, but they are for the slender women alone. The stout woman can secure excellent r esults by combining the Empire style and the Princess cut, the long, straight, simple front with an Empire back, partic ularly good In house gowns. The new skirt, long and clinging, or se vere and tailored. Is known as the mount ed skirt. That means it has the. appear ance of being mounted on a very hteh girdle which comes close to the bust line. It Is a combination of the gored skirt with the shaped high glrJile, accomplished by running the gores of the skirt, admir ably fitted, to a point Just below the bust. Here It meets a bodice of the same material, or at least a fabric matching the skirt perfectly In tone, with a deep yoke of harmonious coloring In softer fab ric, or of lace or pet. For tailored modes this mounted sjtlrt is generally fin ished off with stitching, bias folds or pip ing or a very fine line of braid. In house gowns or evening frocks It la often hid den by the draped girdle with long sash ends in softest of fabrics. By far the most interesting feature of present modes Is the revival of the one piece gown, of which the Princess mode was a forerunner. Now the one-piece frock may be built on classic lines with beautiful draped effects, especially effec tive in the softest satins and silks or chiffon cloths. Directoire gowns with enormous reveres In silks, satins and broadcloths come next, and Empire gowns In chiffon cloths, marquisettes and simi lar weaves, are exquisite for evening use. In colors, the only really vivid shade which is shown In the smarter shops is the peacock green or blue, call It what you wIlL All other blues show a predom inating influence ot gray, softening them and incidentally making them more dura ble: Leather and mustard color remain very good, but they show a distinct soft ening over the tints of last Winter, and gray and brown seem to be mixed In hopeless confusion. That means that tha general tendency as the season advances is toward neutral tints. The girl who once wore baby blue or pale pink is now wearing a shade of tan that looks almost gray. Mauve is smartest of the smart. You have to look twice at my lady's din ner gown of brocade to find out whether it Is tan, mauve or a .queer gray. Some suggestions In this week's Illus trations will be of great use to home dressmakers. First, we have presented two types of the mounted or high-girdled skirt. One of these is in heavy brown satin, tailored, with a long, straight pointed coat which will give height to the most commonplace figure. This rep resents the last cry In tailored raiment which can be utilized for church wear, calling and a multitude of semi-dress oc casions. The 6kirt barely clears the ground, yet can be worn In trolleys or comfortably and easily raised with one hand when walking. The blouse beneath shows little of 6atln and much of soft, creamy lace and braiding on a deeper cream satin. The second Illustration is a trifle more severe and gives an idea of what can be done with simple herringbone cloth and braid. And right vhere a word. If you ' I fill ill f AN EMPIRE HOUSE GOWN have a good tailored suit left from last year with a full pleated skirt, you can make it over into this year's modes by ripping, pressing and recuttlng so that you have the mounted girdle effect. This, of course, will leave you with a skirt far too short. Lengthen this with alternate folds or bands of the fabric in use with one in contrasting material but not con trasting color. If your suit was a check or stripe in greenish brown, get a good match in' plain broadcloth for your bands or folds. If the fabric is plain, use a fine striped or shot effact for bands. Then make your reveres on your coat, pocket lapets and cuffs of the new material, and your new suit is complete. If you are re making a house dress, do not attempt to raise the girdle of the 'skirt. Make a slightly draped blouse, and. matching the fabric perfectly in softest of silk or satin, build a draped or folded girdle with sash ends. This draped girdle with sash ends Is shown in one of ' the illustrations. It should be made of the most supple and soft of fabrics, and should harmonize, not furnish a contrast, with the gown. On silk gowns they are made of lace, net and chiffon. Another trifle shown in this connection Is the narrow velvet tie for the neck. This matches the gown perfectly, or at least tones into the hue of the fabric, and is made of narrow velvet, finished with tassels of the sama color, or In gold or silver. A pretty novelty In neckwear, a lace collar finished with a fine chiffon niching and velvet ribbon to match the gown, is shown. These fussy little neck pieces are not separate, but a part of the frock. Introducing the lace used In the yoke, some of the velvet, satin, silk or embroi dery employed in the bodice and the In evitable outstanding ruche which Is part of this year's faddishness. It appears on all collars and on many of the finer cuffs. The Empire frock portrayed herewith is a simple but effective model for young matrons and girls. It is most effective in the new clinging silks, marquisettes and chiffon cloths. The ornamentation on the yoke or short-waisted bodice and sleeves may be rrfost elaborate, but the skirt la I severely plain. MARV DEAN. The Hand Beautiful and How to Make It So ONK of -the certain results of vacation-days Is a flood of Inquliies about hands and their ailments. The girl who has played golf and tennis with ungloved hands writes nie a des perate appeal, demanding how she can get rid of freckles In - hours! The woman who. without Kloves. has been digging in her garden, wants to know how to cure hangnails right away. They all- seem to think that the ail ments which rvKiili from weeks and per haps months' ttf earelessnesj and abuse of their" hands can cured with medi cines In a few days if not a few hours. To all -4t .these .eorresiiondents I must say that-tmu he rctitilrv-I. ,-lsn much patience and " vrsevcrance. To begin with, ifyon have ,d the ungloved out door life your hands will be either tanned or roughened. For the ordinary tan use an almond powdcj for wapliing instead of soap. A . very, good formula for. such a pow der Is this: - Flanehrd ,aJmonds itowdered S ozs, fnttle-tUili lione. pulverized 4 ozs. White A'aatllc, .soup powdered).... 4 ozs Orris root! l powdered 2 ozs. I'll of cloves 1'; drachms You can hsve the four Ingredients first rained gruuml or pulverized by your drugct. or vou can grind them In a mortar, if-ou make a iirHctie of mixing our own toilet arucier W'lif-n ready to cembitt, the ingreri.ciits, mix the or-H root with the almond, then add th. S'-ented oils, stirring very slowly, then at the last, the powdered soap and cuttle fish. Keep In- a Jar wi:h a perforated top and shake this Into your washrag or fesh-bruh . instead of soap, every time you wash. I'se warm, not hot or cold water. Incidentally, if you hae no per forated lid at hand, you can" get a useful substitute at any housef urnUhhig store. large salt shaker with a celluloid top that is perforated. iVIluloid is better than melHl for this purpose. Another vrry xhI whitener for tanned hand Is the oatmeal lotion, formula for which has heen given frequently In thi column. If you have mislaid the for mula I will be glad to send it to you on Tecetnt of a stamped and self-addressei envelope. The oatmeal lotion Is easier to frepai than the almond powder given above and will answer in ail cases of moderate tanning. When freckles pf a si:perflc:al charac ter reu?T from exposure to the sun. peroxide of hydrogen will sometimes ef fect a qu.-k cure. Keep the peroxide In a dark bottle iblne or brown) in a dark r-laee. To'-ch the freckles n'ght and morning with a small camel's hair fcrtiah d!pre,l into the peroxide, and do pot wipe the latter off. If the -freckles are deep-seated a lotion containing an acid I often necessary. Here lsvie that is highly recommended: luetic acid 4 ounves Clycerlne I ounces Itoe water 1 ounce Massage the hands thoroughly, exer c'wlnc them Into a fre perspiration, then apply the lotion with a soft cloth or with a hrush. Allow It to dry on. In using any freckle remover that con tains acid, the han.ls are apt to become reddened or a little sore. To counteract IMa condition, wear old gloves to led. ilcr corm tt-.a hanus with the cos- 1 metlc paste, formula for which has often been given In this column. When the finger tips are In bad shape from outdoor work, and it is remarkable how many women neglect their hands In their enthusiasm for gardening, regular manicuring 18 essential. Every day the nails must be treated, and especially the skin or little pockets In which the nails arc set. If hangnails are present, they must be cut close to the flesh with very sharp curved sclesors which come for this purpose, and then treated with pure white vaseline. If you find It neces sary to return to work Immediately, fas ten a glove finger over the sore nail and give the vaseline a chance to do Its heal ing work. If the nails have become very brittle, apply this pomade at night, wearing very large, old kid gloves over the bands: 1 .stache oil " ounce Table salt 32 grains Powdered resin 33 grains Powdered alum 33 grains White wax .' W grains Carmine 2 grains Pi-tttle nails crack around the edges, are very uneven and unsightly and should be treated at once. If you have discoloration on the nail, touch the spots with pure lemon Juice or peroxide of hydrogen. Several correspondents have asked what to do for very white, characterless nail. This Indicates a'condition beneath the nail. In the flesh, and probably Indi cates also an anemic condition of the patient. The color can be simulated by the use of a nail rouge or paste, formula for which will be furnished on receipt of stamped and addressed envelope. This gives a pearly-pink tint to the nail, but should not he used by those whose nails are naturally a delicate pink. Highly colored nails are not desirable. If the skin Is cracked and these cracks discolored, a simple oxide of zinc oint ment will affect a cure. To make tills use the following formula: Spermaceti 2Vi ounces White wax 1 ounce Almond oil , Vs pint Place the spermaceti and wax In a double boiler, but do not allow the water In the under part to boil, simply to get hot enough to gradually melt the waxes. When this has been accomplished, add the almond oil very gradually, stirring all the while. Measure this mixture care fully by tablespoons and add to It Just one-sixth of Its bulk in oxide of zinc. That Is, If you have 12 tablespoons of pomade yon must add only two of oxide of zinc. To 24 tablespoons of pomade you add four tableppoons of the zinc. Ap ply this pomade to the hands every night before retiring and wear over it old. loose gloves. The hands will heal quick ly and become beautifully firm and white provided and this proviso is most Im portantyou do not Immediately expose your hands to rough work during the day. There is absolutely no reason why a woman should not train herself to do rough work In gloves. One excuse of fered . Is that they retard work. This Is because the woman wears too tight a glove. Have them loose and wear them at first for sweeping, dusting and tending fires. When you have accustomed your self to doing this sort of work In old cotton or kid gloves, you will be able to train yourself to wear the loose rubber gloves when washing dishes', scrubbing, etc. And If you are not willing to train yourself to working with such protection for your hands, you deserve as ugly hands as providence can give you for vour Indifference and lack of persever ance. KATHERINE MORTON. Trifles Now AH Important PACK away your pretty turnover collars of linen with scalloped ertges. They are behind the times. The new- collars are all laid in folds, and seem to swat,h the neck. They are made of lawn, batiste, fine linen, net. lace, satin, silk, cloth and velvet. The heavier materials, silk satin, etc if used at all, must match the frock or bodice. And whatever' the .folds, the top Is finished with a frill or ruchlng of lace, chiffon, etc. For wear with linen or other wash bodices the smartest stock has a foun dation of fine folds with the ruche, and down the front runs a very lever shaped Jabot. . scalloped and embroid ered, which, covers the closing of the stock in front. For a young girl a smart new neck dressing consists of a stock made from narrow folds, finished with an embroidered Jabot and over this what waa once known as the Bus ter Brown or Peter Pan turnover col lar cut away at the front to show the folds of the stock and Jabot. For the long-necked woman, the band of bright ribbon or velvet which all Sum mer has finished the top of the collar. now rests around Its base, and for wear with a heavy cloth Directoire or cutaway coat, the stock is of soft silk, net or lace folds finished with a single end, pleated and edged with lace, which runs through a buckle or ornament toward the left shoulder. With the long mousquetaire sleeves, the two button glove is essential. Never combine elbow gloves with shir red lawn sleeves. Ton kill the style of the sleeve and make It common-place. The Psyche knot, either pure or modified by the use of puffs and braids Is the coiffure of the moment. This means that the Grecian fillet In a sin gle band or triple will be used. You can buy It In tortoise shell banding to keep the wavy locks In place and then through the opening in the tor toise shell, ribbons, tulle, velvet, etc.. may be run. Tulle is the softest for evening wear, and ribbon if employed at all must be soft. New combs are very broad and finished with cabuchin llke rnamenta under which ribbon and tulle may be run. A stunning comb in pale amber had ornaments set In amethysts a.nd through these amethyst-colored velvet ribbon was run. puede chatelaine ags in colors to match all the new cloths come with or without belts to be worn when shop ping or traveling. The woman who can make either wings, quills or flowers of ribbon, silk or satin, will find employment for her fingers this Fall. Ribbon ornaments of all sorts will be used on Fall and Winter millinery. MARY DEAN. Hints on Cooking Meats. . Never pour water Into the pan In which you roast lamb. Rub the meat with salt and pepper and scatter flour lightly over the top. Then cover with the "leaf" of fat which comes with the roast. Cover with a second pan of same size and baste with the Juices of the meat. Water destroys the flavor. When ordering Hamburger steak, se lect the meat. Do not permit tha butcher to put in tailings and discol ored scraps. Fresh rump or round is best. Have It first ground, then laid on the meat block and the onion chopped into it with a cleaver. To get the best results in stewing chicken according to the good old fashioned methods, disjoint the fowl, wipe each piece clean, and drop into water Just coming to a ' boil. Cover tightly and set back on the stove to simmer very gently. When about half done, add salt. When the meat Is Just ready to drop from the bone, you will find your stock greatly reduced. Add an equal quantity of 'milk, thicken with flour, and then add pepper and parsley chopped fine. Serve on crisp toast. If you Intend to -serve cold ham whole, parboil and then bake it. Scrub the ham thoroughly and soak over night In cold water. Next -morning wipe off clean, lay in cold water In a granite Iron pot and bring just to a boll. Pour off this water, add more coid and bring to a boll the second time: add a handful of bay leaves and some whole cloves. Simmer for two hours, remove from the pot, peel off the akin, lay In a dripping pan in which you have poured a. cup of water and one of sherry. Cover with bread crumbs and pepper, bake until golden brown. Timely Hints on the Etiquette of Club Life The "car-Orphan. Chicago Pest. I'm almnut, but not wholly homeless: You can t understand how It fels I wish that my fathftr would roam les And mother war hfr for mali. Please find me a parent retorr. Mv thanks you will P.nd vry -warm; -My "father's a polar xplorr. And mother jjoes In for reform. I Paw him when I wan just evn, I see her a moment each day; I'm now pretty well past eleven. So you'll feel fnr nae when I pay That I shall be more than delighted When all of u et the glad news That father the north pole haa sighted And mother haa put through her views. Mv mother is telling the Nation The rights and wrongs of lis laws, My fathf r with great tribulation Upon his Iat bootleel now gnaws: poor father don't like the cold weather. But still he is seeking the pole; Pmr mother pulls herself together And strives to press on to the goal. I wish I had some roratlon To occupy most of my flme; I-lke mother I might urge the Nation To turn to uplifting, and climb But she might be snippily jealous So that's Just the way that It goes; With father o eagerly zealous To follow his frost-bftten nose. Some dar we may be reunited My father, my mother and 'I. And then I'll be truly delighted But now I am not. This la why: -I yarn for a parent restorer. My thanks you will find very warm. For fsthers a polar exolorer And mother goea in or reform. THIS Is the season of awakeninjr in club life. ' And especially in subur ban towns, small cities and villages, clubs form one of the most important and active' features of the community's social life. The number of Inquiries which reach my desk show that the inexperienced need advice as to their entrance into a new club, their duties and obligations. First as to the typical woman's club. Mrs. Brown-Jones, an active worker In the East-End Art Club has asked Mrs. Hamilton, a newcomer to Kast End, to join the Art club. Presumably she has not done this until she has presented Mrs. Hamilton's name to the membership committee, who have decided tiiat Mrs. Hamilton will be welcome. Never, if you are an active club woman, propose a name unless you are sure its owner will be a welcome addition to the membership and never suggest to a friend whose ac quaintance you value,' that she join your club unless she is sure of being elected. To return to Mrs. Hamilton. She has been the .recipient of a courtesy at the hand of her friend, and she should make sure that she Is able to reciprocate before joining the club. "Will she have time to attend meetings, regularly, to prepare such papers as are demanded of her, and to entertain the club as often" as may be required of each member? The wo man who "hates art" but who desires so cial recognition through club life should Join a club devoted to other lines of study. Her sin of omission is sure to find her out. Having joined a club, Mrs. Hamilton will not try to run it. Whatever her gift of leadership, she will do well to alio' at least one "Winter to pass before she seeks office or attempts to succeed older members. If she has any special gift along any line, be sure members will rind it out and give her special work to do. The ' newcomer will advance her in terests best by preparing bright, brljef and interesting papers, by being ready to step Into the breach when some one disappoints, by dressing attractively and tastefully at all meetings and by taking an interest in what obher members are doing. The woman, who chatters while other women are reading papers, who is interested only when she has the floor, or who blocks all plans, which she does not propose, is never popular. Many women recently elected to club membership ask "Who calls first?" Unquestionably the old club members. The newcomer waits until the older mem bers make the first advances, and it must be borne In mind that In very large clubs, an exchange of calls is not con sidered necessary. The social meetings offer opportunity for the newcomer to show her social qualifications, and if she makes a good impression, the women who are worth while will note the fact and call promptly. But never does the new member, the newcomer In a com munity, make the first calls. Members elected to afternoon bridge or whist or euchre clubs should count the expense before accepting. If the club meets weekly and consists of 36 women, you will be expected to entertain Just once In four months. If the club meets twice a week, as many do. then you will i have to entertain at least twice during ! the season. Some clubs of this sort meet j In the afternoon, and light refreshments are served. If it is a luncheon club. I whist - Is played during the morning, starting at 11 o'clock and luncheon is served at xl or 1:30 o'clock, giving mem bers a chance to attend receptions in the afternoon or more often other card parties. When both husband and wife are In vited to join a card club which meets in the evening, neither must accept un less reasonably sure that the other will attend at least a majority of the meet ings. The wife of the tremendously busy man, who may attend not more than one or two meetings during the sea son, can upset the calculations of the various hostesses who must supply an extra man to take the husband's place. If husband and wife do not both play cards, the malcontent can also make things very unpleasant for the one who enjoys playing. Another factor to be con sidered Is the expense. The couple of small Income should ascertain just what prizes, refreshments, etc., are to cost be fore pledging themselves to membership. When young girls are invited to Join dancing clubs or-what are known as sub scription dances, the parents should un derstand very distinctly that the daugh ter's expenses must be paid by them. The young men of the club do not pay all expenses. Generally, a couple of mar ried women act as patronesses, the young men pay their share and the parents of the girls pay theirs, Including hall, music, refreshments, etc. Quite often the young men arrange to call for the girls In turn and tBcort them to and from the dance, hut in some cases, the girl goes under the care of her mother, aunt or other chaperone. It Is not obli gatory for the young men of the club to provide an escort, but youth generally does "manage this. The important point Is that the parents should be interested In the club and be sure that proper chapcronage Is provided. PRUDENCE STANDTSH. Woman Who Courts Flesh "New York Evening Sun. IT WOL'LD seem, from the deluge of ad vice poured into the stout woman's ear, tharhere are no overlean women in ex istence, or, if there tie such, they are well satisfied with their angles. While fashion frowns heavily upon any signs of buxom ness and we must edmit that a large per centage of femininity past 30 Is fighting to retain youthful contours there do exist women who would undergo tortures in order to exchange their sharp outlines for softer curves. It is ell very well to prate of the "lines of youth," but when one's shoulder blades, elbows and hips are bony to scragginess one Is bound to yearn for a light coating of adipose tissue. Let us not forget, however, in the search for artistic curves, that It is usually the woman with decided tendency to "fret and worry" who is thin even unto attenuation. The very slender woman never im presses you as really reposing; she sits on the edge of her chair, wriggles her slim feet and continually works imaginary patterns with ten diligent little fingers. When she enters a room she moves from point to point and " finally bends un restgnedly to a seat, the hardest one in th room: while her plump friend gravi tates to a pile of cushions and snuggles Into their depths as naturally as the soft eyed Maltese- curls herself Into a ball before the open grate. Then too. the bony woman is so deadly in earnest when she talks. She searches the room for imaginary threads, walks to the window to rearrange faultlessly hiing curtains readjusts ornaments, continually hears the telephone bell and does every thing to keep her nerves a-Jangie. Meanwhile Margot reclines upon her sea of cushions with dreamy half-closed eyes, gurgling affirmatives and rapidly ac quiring nesn. it wouia o -wen ior me overlean lass to make a study of Margot and her ways. Of course, if one has the born tendency to "fret and worry," It Is a soul-discouraging task to uproot the evH. and most difficult to' cultivate repose if one has been stung with the poison of unrest. The meager woman who courts flesh to I round her angles into curves of beauty J needs fresh lr and sunshine in unstinted measure, and must have them. She must eat a great deal of fruit; those denied to her obese sister are her special friends. She must, iien possible, take a glass of milk between meals, in mid-morning and afternoon anrl again before going to' bed. A" wafer or two can be eaten at the same time, while the milk ' must be slowly sipped, not gulped down rapidly. 9he may eat cereals freely and all the starcl- and sweet vegetables. White and sweet potatoes, peas, com and beans, and salads to promote digestion, are her main stays. Meats are according to appetite and taste. All sorts of sweets are fatten ing, particularly chocolate, which is also especially nutritious. Apple and Celery Salad. A good way to use up celery left overs. Cut firm, white raw apples into' dice and the same quantity of celery. Mix with mayonnaise dressing and serve at once on a curly lettuce leaf or In appla cups. To make the latter, with a sharp knife remove all the center of bright, green or red apples and throw them Into Ice-water. Im mediately cut the part you have re moved into thin silvers, mix with the celery and mayonnaise and drain the apple cups before filling with the salad. Half a walnut meat or a mar aschino cherry may be used to top off the individual portions. Sometimes a few chopped Kngllsh walnuts are add ed to the celery and rfpple. But what ever the combination, the apple must not be permitted to stand and darken. Apple Fritters Select firm apples, pare and core, then cut into slices not thicker fiian a third of an Inch. Have ready a kettle of boiling lard such as you use In frying doughnuts. Now mix quickly a batter consisting of one pint of milk. . three eggs, beaten light, a third of- a teaspoon of salt, a pint of flour and a teaspoon of baking powder. Mix the beaten eggs with half the milk and the salt, then alternately the flour and the rest of the milk, the baking powder last. Dip the slices of apple in this batter and fry golden brown. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve at one
