The Sunday Oregonian., September 27, 1908, SECTION FOUR, Page 4, Image 38

t - : THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAN." FOBTLAyD SEFTE3IBEB 19Q8 .; ' .!
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MASSES OF FEATHERS ARE CONSPICUOUS ON
- STYLISH DRESS HATS FOR FALL AND WINTER WEAR
Portland Milliners Import Latest Creations in Anticipation of Demand Caused by Horse Show.
DRINK DISTILLED
WATER AND PROLONG
LONDON
GLOVES
YOUR LIFE
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jv AtSp;S of feathers and plumes.
j heaped high upon Immense velvet
' disc, or trntlln? over the big "Tain
O'Phanter crowns f the new silk and
vrlv-t ruffltyl "Charlotte Corday" bon
nets ;these ar the key-notes to the dress
hats of the coming season. Huge spread
ing wing, too. and Immense quantities of
dainty aigrettes, topping broad bands of
mased bre5t feathers, are employed
with smart effect In variations of the
leading styles, and every hue and tint
of the rainbow Is utilized. In endless com
bination with other hues. In th velvet
and silken foundations.
Dress hats for the horse show are Just
now furnishing an Interesting topic for
fashionable femininity, and the local mil
liners are fully awake to the opportunity
for dlsplav. As a result, the show-wfn-dows
of the local shops are brilliant with
gay displays. In rloh and ravishing
variety.- In the matter of millinery, as
well as in that of gowns and smart ac
cessories. Portland has already mads a j
name among the cities of the Northwest
for early and exclusive showlnps. and
the brilliant displays of the present are
glowing examples of the enterprise, taste
and discretion of the local millinery
fanciers.
In the accompanying pictures are shown
four of the leading types of the new
dress hat. from an exclusive millinery
establishment, each of which types Is
shown In dozens of variations.
The new "Charlotte Corday" bonnet,
which Is a sort of "Tarn O'Shanter"
effect elaborated upon. Is shown In
picture No. 1. The bonnet foundation Is
of soft velvet, gathered upon a small
frame. The velvet Is of a delicate blue
shade, with a soft silken lining of shell
pink, the two tones blending with very
dainty effect at the ruffled edges of the
foundation piece. A double frill of fine
lace. In a dull pink tone, finishes off the
bonnet underneath the ruffled edges of
the velvet. The "Tarn O'Shanter" top
of the bonnet is almost completely hidden
by a mass of pink Yoses. with bluish
tones and dull green leaves, and two
large, rich white ostrich plumes, secured
a little at the left of the front, trail over
the crown and curl under the dainty
ruffles of the left side. This type of
bonnet is being displayed in Mask and
all the millinery colors, with various
modes of trimming, accordian-pleated
taffeta being used In some of the models
as a foundation piece.
A beautiful dress hat, of the expen
sive simplicity type. Is shown In No. 2.
The. foundation Is an immense disc of
black velvet, with a high crown of the
same.- having a broad, crushed band of
black satin rfTibon pulled tight around it,
meeting tinder a large silver buckla a
little at the left of the front. From
this buckle two beautiful ostrich, plumes,
snowy white and curling richly, and a
half dozen dainty white aigrettes, flare
out over the left side of the black velvet
brim, the tips of the longer plume curl
ing over the edge and against the coif
fure, with rich and dainty effect. A
strap of the black satin ribbon, fastened
at the back of the hat, is worn loosely
under the chin, edr.'ng a quaint and
charming touch to this beautiful work of
the milliner's art.
Another creation in black and white,
which by the way. Is heralded as one of
the smartest combinations of the coming
season. Is shown in No. 3. The crown
of this big black velvet hat Is somewhat
lower, and Is completely hidden under a
snowy mass of clipped plumes, which
spread out in feathery richness, to the
very edges of the big brim. The massing
of clipped and uncurled feathers upon
the crown of the broad brimmed hats
will, according to the milliners, be one
of the smartest methods of trimming for
Fall and Winter.
A smaller hat, of upturned, flaring brim
at the front and side, is shown In No. 4.
This hat is of grayish blue, with touches
of deeper blue In the crushed ribbon band
that encircles the crown, and the head
of a large tropical bird nestles at the
front In a mass of greenish-blue breast
feathers, from which sprouts out a large
flare of long clipped feathers. In pea
cock tones, extending backward over the
left side and far out over the brim.
Spreading wings, of immense size, and
In many brilliant tones, are features of
some of the other smart hats, the wings.
except for a bit of massed ribbon where
they ere fastened to Xhe hat proper, being
the only trimming wsea.
HOW BONCI, GREAT ITALIAN TENOR, LIVES
IN HIS SPLENDID HOME IN THE APPENINES
' Emilia Frances Bauer Writes of Visit With Family o f Famous Singer and of Call on Composer Puccini.
BONCI. Italy. Sept. . In figuring
-upon the most lifvish possibilities,
my vivid. Imagination never reached
a point where, entirely alone (with the
exception of the housekeeper) four floors
below) I should spend a night In an enor
mous rastle--and one so large that upon
a-sking the housekeeper how many rooms
there were, she answered: "I have never
counted them: I have no idea." I have
made the rounds and pan fully agree with
her I have no idea. The superb villa
belongs to Slgnor Bond, whose guest In
the Summer home of the family I had
the honor to be, and who insisted upon
my coming to his home on passing
through Bologna, even though the noted
artist and his family are still In thetr
delightful country home In La Colllna. A
lavish dinner was prepared" and as I sat
alone at the fea-t. I looked so longingly
at the three handsome dogs, that they
immediately took It for an invitation and
came to cast an eye over the situation.
The Villa Bruzzi. aa the Bond mansion
is called. Is on a tremendous cliff, and it
is to be seen even from the railway as
one passes through the country. The vista
Is most remarkable and takes in the
whole of the charming and quaint city of
Kologna. wht.-h. with its 140.000 inhab
itants, is one of the greatest educational
and art .centers of Italy. It were quite
impossible to describe the homo which
has all tbe modern conveniences of an
American city. While having an atmos
phere of ages. Quite the most fascinat
ing part is the center of the house, which
through to the very top story forms a
music-room with seats for guests on
every floor into the cupalo. A grand piano
standing in the center of the ground
floor Is seen from the fourth landing as
well as from the flrst. It were Impossible
to count tbe trophies in the different
rooms and tt is Interesting to note that
American flags are In evidence from a
large handsome silk one to a tiny one
placed over the bed of the tittle 6-year-old,
who accompanied his parents on
their first visit to America, and who In
aUts that he Is coming again next time.
One must almost regret that Slgnor
Bond and his charming wife hare so lit
tle lira In their beautiful home, for as was
the cut last season the great tenor spent
aix months m America and three months
at Covent Gardan. and when not at either
of thaas places charming thousands upon
thousands of admirers, he is with his
family at La Colllna where he simply lets
loose and lives like a boy of 12.
La, Colllna is a wonderful spot In
the Appenlnes. where the air is as
mire aa the snrinsrs are fresh and beau
tiful. and for the eye nothing more
refreshing and more magnificent can
be conceived than Is offered by the
rolling hills and the abrupt, sharp
peaks. These are covered with . in
teresting pictures, dotted as they are
with tiny farms, with here and there
a picturesque little Italian girl mind
ing her sheep and such sheep! Just
as you have often seen in what you
were pleased to call "lancy pictures.
Indeed, no fancy can surpass the pic
tures to be found among these moun
tains. These are heightened by the
effect of Bond's great touring car as
it whizzes by, in and out of hamlets,
while all the inhabitants rush to the
door, primarily to gather In their flock
of children, donkeys, cows, chickens
and other species of livestock, and
then to see "il grand tenore" as he
flies by with his family and friends,
with a greeting here and there, and a
kindly wave of the hand for all. There
are, however, some sectioas where they
do not seem to get over the terror of
seeing tnls monster tear through the
mountains as though it were an every
day affair to climb thousands of feet
In an automobile, and not infrequently
the women drop to their knees and
cross themselves as the" snorting, toot
ing otr flies up one side and down
the other of the Appenlne peaks.
One of the most remarkable auto
mobile trips I have ever Indulged in
was upon such an occasion, when we
went to call upon Puccini in his villa
at Abetone, also in the Appenlnes, some
hundred kilometers away from the
Bond villa in La Colllna. Bond has
been asked to sing the tenor part in
PueclnTs "Le Villi." which will be
given for the first time In America
at the Metropolitan next Winter. It is
a wonderfully beautiful work. Judging
from ty score, and the part Is most
congenial to Bond.
Puccini is the owner of several villas
In the country, one in the lake section
and this one In the mountains. The
great Italian composer Is tremendously
hard at work on "The Girl From the
Golden West" and is sow waiting for
some national and sectional melodies
from America. Puccini was deeply in
terested In the music of the early days
In California, but how he intends to
utilize It remains a dark secret. It is
more than likely that he doe's not know
himself. Useless to say that he is an
enthusiast on the subject of America, as
that country has contributed an enor
mous fortune to his coffers, and be
yond that it has manifested a genuine
appreciation of his talents, and he
knows ft- He Is a man of great per
sonal charm and a high degree of in
telligence. That day we made over 225 kilome
ters. . Any one good In arithmetic may
figure that out Into American miles.
There was general rejoicing at the
colony when Bond returned, because,
be it understood, that almost everyone
who comes for th Summer season at
La Colllna does so because the great
tenor and his family make this their
Summer residence, and their circle of
friends Is among the most interesting
and most Intelligent people of this
beautiful country.
The other evening the guests at the
hotel gave a dinner to Bond that would
have done credit to the largest res
taurants of the Continent. The guests
Included many nationalities, and when
Bond Insisted upon following the col
lation with "a dance of the nations." at
least two good American" citizens rep
resented the Stars and Stripes. One
was Albert Mlldenberg, visiting Bond
on his way to Vienna, where rehearsals
of his opera, are about to take place;
the other I need not mention. Milden
berg was induced to play some of the
parte of "Michel Angelo. and as Bond
was In possession of a score he sang
with great fervor the superb tenor
role, which in reality has been Inspired
by him. After each number the audi
ence broke Into fresh volleys of appre
ciation, and both composer and singer
were overwhelmed with compliments.
Bond finally loosened up and sang
until S o'clock in the morning. At the
end of the performance his efferves
cent spirits let loose in eongs from
every sort of music. Including coon
songs and the popular street songs ef
Itsly. It Is certain that no one who
was- present will ever forget one de
tail of the delightful evening, Includ
ing the speeches that were made and
an lllumlnated'scroll expressing the af
fection of the colony at La Colllna..
One of Boncl'e delights is walking
over his .newly acquired plat, where
next season he will build his own
home. The plans have Just been ac
cepted by him, and all arrangements
are ready to supply him with, a 20
rootn house ready for occupancy by
next Summer. The superb location is
at the top of a splendid hill where the
entire -country lies beneath him.
Whether he will really spend the Sum
mer here, la also a question, as he Is
planning an automobile trip through
Europe with his family, and the writer
to whom he offered the post of inter
preter. He Is also offered an enormous
engagement in Buenos Ayres, iri conse
quence of .which it seems rather doubt
ful which he will select.
Mr. and Mrs. Bond will return to
America early in November, but before
that the tenor will make several ap
pearances in Vienna and in Liverpool,
and hie first appearance in America
will be In Denver, where he gives a
concert before the "opening of the
Metropolitan.
EMILTE FRANCES BAUER.
President Roosevelt Sow Weighs 200.
Washington (D. C.) Dispatch.
"Mike" Donovan, who has given the
President points about athletics, says
Mr. Roosevelt la in fine physical condi
tion, and has reduced his weight to
about 200 pounds.
Rent a Piano
Ton will wont a piano la your hom
this Fall and. "Wiater. It will afford
you much pleasure. Perhaps you feel
that you are not ready to purchase the
piano you deirire to own. Most mu
sicians look forward to the time when
they will own a Stetnway Plan.
Rnt a piano from u and all the
money paid as rent will be applied
toward the purchase of a Steinway.
We have the largest stock of pianos
In tha city and the finest line of old
standard, reliable, veil-known makes.
Read the. names names ma familiar as
the names of old friends Stelnway.
Knabe, X. B. Chase. Evertt. Ludwlg,
Packard. Coaover. King-sbury. Welling
ton. Estey, Emerson. Kurtxmann and
others.
Our main salesrooms, second floor.
Sixth and Morrison. Entrance to store
opposite Post office.
Sherman, Clay &Co.
"The Home of Dependable pianos."
A Sanitary Household
Water Still on your
kitchen stove will pro
vide distilled water for
your entire family and
PROLONG YOUR
LIFE AT NO EX
PENSE WE GUARANTEE the
water produced by our
Stills to be entirely free from all animal and veg
etable matter- or germs of any description.
FOR LADIES AND
GENTLEMEN
ARE NOW IN.
The showing includes all
shades and styles, for
both street and full dress.
CROSS GLOVES
Are accepted the world
over as the standard
gloves for people who
care.
WE ARE EXCLUSIVE
AGENTS
CURE YOUR COLD WITH
TOLU-FIR
A QUICK REMEDY FOR
COUGHS, COLDS and all
Throat and Lung Troubles
PRICE PER BOTTLE SOc
ACOUSTICON
FOR DEAF PEOPLE
. Ths Acousticon makes deaf
people hear with ease. They
have been adopted by the
United States Government
and hire been installed in
some of the Administration
buildings at Washington,
D. 0. Numerous churches
throughout the country are
also using them.
We have them' for all
classes of deafness.
CHILDREN
SUFFERING
Prom imperfect vision caused by
overstudy are often called dull.
We give careful attention to the
fitting . of children's study
glasses, assuring good results in
all cases.
CONSULT OUR
OPTICIAN
CORSET
ANKLE
SUPPORTS
Pair
$1.25
FREE
PHONES
4th Floor
WE
FRAME
PICTURES
Hill
till
"BACK-REST!i!ri
FOR MEDIUM AND
SLENDER FIGURES
m : -
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!S;fcgrnfiifyi?fiiVfia
"SELF-REDUCING
FOR EVERY TYPE OF
STOUT WOMEN
Every Nemo Corset Does
Something1 for You That
No Other Corset Can Do
! The wise woman of to-day
lives hygienically.
Her food is hygienic
Her home is hygienic.
Her clothes are hygienic.
Even her corsets bring health
as well as comfort and style
if she wears the "Nemo. "
Nemo Corsets
Are Hygienic
If you're stout, the Nemo "Self
Reducing" Corset will give you a
youthful, graceful figure, and put you
as far into the Directoire " class as
any stout, woman ought to go and
will make you healthier.
If you are of slender or medium
form, the Nemo Back-Resting"
Corset will give you the flat " new
figure" in its perfection, relieve your
backache, and bring you comfort such
as you never had before and with
improved health.
A FEW OF THE "NEMO" HYGIENIC FEATURES PATENTED AND EXCLUSIVE
1. Nemo Self-Reducing Straps, being firmly affixed to hooks on the front steels, give positive re
duction of abdomen and permanent lines of youthful grace. 2. Nem Relief Straps, which perfectly
support the abdomen and make you comfortable. 3. Nemo Double Garters, which, being attached
to the Reducing Straps, prevent the flesh from bulging out below the corset. 4. Nemo Back-Resting
Straps (in Model S51 only), which give support at the, spot you need it most the small of the back,
right over one of the most important nerve-centres in the body. 5. Nemo Flatning-Back, an in
genious method of securing the utmost slenderness for every figure, with absolute comfort.
There's a Hygienic Nemo for Every Figure Stout, Slender or Medium
NEMO BACK-RESTING CORSET No. 35I. A beautiful model, for .lender and me- j h i
"IT RESTS YOJR BACK" dium figures. Long, sloping, clinging back, flat hip I Pfcj.VV
effect. The back steels cannot turn and dig into your flesh. In sixes IS to 26 ..... )
NEMO SELF-REDUCING CORSET The only corset ever made that positively reduces the abdomen
"MAKE STOUT WOMEN SLENDER" with increased comfort and absolute hygienic safety. The
new Flatning-Back models reduce both abdomen and hips, and make Princesse effects possible to stout figures:
Model No. 312, for tall stout women; No. 320, same model, with Flatning-Back ) $0
Model No. 314, for short stout women; No. 318, same model, with Flatning-Back f JJJ
No. 516, mercerized brocade; tall stout; No. 518, same material; short stout) $C rtf
No. 517, French coutil; tall, Flatning-Back; No. 515, French coutil, bust supporters f " JJJ
No. 1000 of finest imported French coutil, new triple reducing straps over hip $10.00
Nemo Corsets are sold in good stores throughout the world. Ak your dealer. Write us for booklet, " Hygienic
Figure-Building," mailed free on request. KOPS BROS Mfr San Francisco Office, 1 140 Geary Street.
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