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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Aug. 16, 1908)
BY U A. KERNS WpRTH. PROM Portland to-Tillamook In one day; from the valley through the n-llda of the Coaf reglona to the city of Tillamook In six Hours" time! How the pioneer of yeatertlme would gasp at the sua-seation; and yet that Is exactly what R. W. "Watson, nwpaper editor vand chauffeur is doing three time each week. Mr. Watson, or "Rome." as he is fa miliarly caJled, is one'of tire most ex perienced chauffeurs in the state. The .idea of establishing an auto-stage line was conceived by him several years ago, but It was only last June that the idea assumed any definite shape. On June 3 the new enterprise was launched, and" now, where before it took days, yes months, to penetrate the- borders of this tar-near little paradise on the shores of the Pacific, and when to get there meant either a tedious Journey by stage, or a still more fatiguing Journey In a rickety old tub that passes for a boat, is substituted a trip of which every moment is one of pleasure, and the traveler is landed in Tillamook six hours after he has left the starting point. 7 miles away. Having Just finished a bountiful meal at MrMlnnville. I tucked myself snugly In the seat beelde the editor chauffeur, and, presto! off we were, speeding first through the dusty streets of the metropolie of Old Yam hill, then through the even more dusty roads of the country (Tillamook knows rot the meaning of that word "dusty") through fields of waving , grain, or stubble fields dotted with freshly made grain shocks. We speed past busy crews of harvest nande engaged In the work of "balln" hay," but who linger long enough to wave us a greet SAY. the longer I knocks around, and the more kinds I meet, the slower I am about sizin' folks up on a first i-lew. I used to think there was only two d'asses. them that was my kind and them that wa'n't; but I've got over that. I don't try to grade 'em up any more; for they're built on ao many different plans It would take a card index the tize of a flat buildln' to keep 'em all on file. All I can make out la that there's some good points about the worst of 'em, and some of the best has their streak of yellow. Anyway, I'm glad I ain't called on to write a tag for Langdon. First news I had of him was what I took for inside information, beln' as it was handed me Jiy hie maw. When I gets the note aekin' me to call up in the TO's between five and six I don't know whether It's a bid to a tea fest or a bait for an auction. The stationery was real swell, though, and the writln' was this up and down kind that goes with the gilt crest. What I could puzsle out of the name, though, wa'n't famlltar. So about five-thirty I'm standln outside the glass doors pushln' the bell. A but ler with boiled-egg eyea looks me over real frosty from behind the lace cur tains; but the minute I says I'm Shorty McClabe he takes off the tramp chain and says, "Yes. sir. This way, sir." I'm towed In over the Persian hall runner to the back parlor, where there's a lady and gent slttln' on opposite sides of the . coal grate, with a tea tray between 'em. "I'll be drlnkln that stuff yet, , if I ain't careful." thinks I. But I didn't even have to duck. The lady was so anxious to get to talkin' that' she forgot to shove the cups at me, and the gent didn't act like it was his say. It was hard to tell, the way she has the lights fixed, whether she was 25 or S-. Anyway, she hadn't got past the kit tenish stage. Some of 'em never does. She don't overdo the thing, but just - gushes natural; usin' her eyes, and eye brows, and the end of her nose, and the tip of her chin when she spoke, as well as throwln In a few shoulder lifts once in a while. "It's so good of you to come up, tro fessor!" says she. "Isn't it. Pembroke?" Pembroke he's the gent on the other side of the tray starts to say that it was, but she don't give him a chance. She blazes right ahead, tellln" how she's heard of me and my studio through friends, and the minute she hears she knows that nothing would suit Langdon better. "Langdon's my son, you know," eays she. ."Honest r" says I. Te-hel" says she. "How sweet of you! Hardlv any one believes It at first, though. But he's a dear boy; Isn't he, Pembroke?" ' This was Pembroke's cue for fair. It's up to him to do the boost act. But all he produces Is a double-barreled blink from behind the glasses. He's one of these ohubby chaps. Pembroke Is. espe cially around the belt. He has pink cheeks, and a nice white forehead that i almost meets the back of his collar. But he knows when to let things slide with a blink. ' "I guess some one's been givln you the wrong steer." says I. "I ain't started any kindergarten class yet. .The Y. il. C A. does that sort of " Oh dear! but Langdon isn't a child. vou know." says the lady. "He's a reat bi fellow, almost 22. Yes, really. And -. '" ' ' : mS S2 : " " 'vvr..,-i-. - - :"-?,?-., W ."v-...--1- ing as we disappear In the distance. Upon reaching Sheridan we stop suffi ciently long to gather in a passenger, and off we are again, eating up the distance between us and the busy, bustling little burg of Willamlna; and then for the tedious climb over the mountains. Rollle knows everyone along the road, and everybody knows Rollle. Babes cry In their, mother's arms to be allowed to wave at him, little chil dren run to the gate to meet him. Between our chauffeur-editor and the residents along the road nothing but the best ot good-will exists. The team ster does not dread to meet his go devil, for well does he know that while Rollle Is at the wheel there is no dan ger. Rollle will slow down or even stop if need be, and the teameter never falls to receive a cheery greeting from him. Mr. Watson is an ardent good roads enthusiast. He has already done much towards making the roads of Tilla mook County passable, but much re mains yet to be done In that line, and Mr. Watson Is the one to accomplish, the work if anyone will .accomplish it. He has several times appeared before the County Courts of Polk. Yamhill and Tillamook Counties, and at one time brought the County Judge and commissioners of Polk County on a per sonal tour of inspection over the road. From them he has received definite promises to make Polk County's part of tlue road a first class one, and the other counties' have also Interested themselves In the matter. Through the medium of the press he Is creating a sentiment for "at least one good road," as he puts It to the "outside." but Utrouarh a better and surer medium, a personal appeal to the property-owners along the road. Is our chauffeur-editor slowly perfecting the realization of his I know you'll get to be awfully fond of him. Won t he Pembroke?" "We-e-e-ell " says Pembroke. "Oh. he's bound to,"1 says she. "Of course, Langdon doesn't always make friends easily. He is so apt to be mis understood. Why they treated him per fectly horrid at prep, school, and even worse at college. A lot of the fellow, and, actually, some of the professors, were so rude to him that Langdon said he Just wouldn't stay another day! I told him I didn't blame him a bit. So he came home. But it's awfully dull for a young man like Langdon here In, New York, you know." "Crippled, or blind, or something, is he?" says I. "Who, Langdon? Why, he's perfect absolutely perfect!" says she. "Oh. that accounts for It." says I. and Pembroke went through some motions with his cheeks like he was tryln' to blow soap bubbles up In the air. Well, it seems that mother has been worryln" a lot over keepln' Langdon amused. Think ot it, In a town like this! "He detests business." says she, "and he doesn't care for theaters, or going to clubs, or reading, or society. But his poor dear father didn't care for any of those things, elthei, except business. And Langdon hasn't any head for that. All he takes an interest In Is his machine." "Singer or Remington?" says I. "Why, his auto, of course. He's per fectly devoted to that." says she; "but the police are so dreadfully particular. Oh, they make such lots of trouble for Langdon, and get him Into such stupid scrapes. Don't they, Pembroke?" Pembroke didn't blink at that. He nods twice. "It just keeps me worried all the time," she goes on. "It isn't that 1 mind pay ing the absurd fines, of course; but well, you can't understand. No one knows what those horrid officers will do next, they're so unreasonable. Just think, that Is the poor boy's only pleasure! So I thought that if we could only get Lang don Interested in something of an ath letic nature he's a splendid boxer, you know oh, splendid!" "That's different," says I. You might send him down a few times and" "Oh, but I want you to meet him first," says she, "and arouse his enthusiasm. He would never go if you didn't. I ex pect he will be In soon, and then Why, that must be Langdon now!" It might have been an ax brigade from the District Attorney's office, or a hook and ladder company,- by the sound. I didn't know whether he was comin" through the doors or brlngln' 'em In with him. As I squints around I sees the egg-eyed butler get shouldered Into the hall rack: so Judges that Langdon must be In something of a hurry. He gets over it, though, for he stamps Into the middle of the room, plants his. feet wide apart, thfows his leather cap with the goggles on Into a chair, chucks one of them greasy bootleg gloves into, rhe middle of the tea tray. "Hello. maw!" he growls. Hello, Fatty! You here again?" Playful little cuss. Langdon was. He's about five feet nine, short-necked, and broad across the chest. But he's got a nice face for a masked ball eyes the color of purple writln' ink, hair of a lovely ripe tomato shade growln' down to a peak In front, and standln" up stiff and brietlk; a -corrugated brow, like a wash board; and an undershot Jaw, same's a bull terrier. Oh, yes. he was a dear boy. all right. In his leggin'z and leather coat he looks too cute for any use. "Who's this?" saya be, gettin' sight of Mil rj: All rv - - - Q 4V -L"- -- 1 ' v?? t 'fr iK 'v. 1 ?f r i--- v - - u x.-m ,:;vV, A1. , - - - . , ?s ., ' . , , '. xv''. - . ; , lilt'""''' ' ' , v j s ' y , . . . , ., - -a m j, f- . r- ' v- mniTi i ' - T 'f 1 . V I ' ' ' '" " . ' 7 ' -' 1 dream an ideal highway ' over the Coast Range to Tillamook. When this is brought about, abso lutely the moat beautiful 'and scenic automobile drive in the state will be afforded the pleasure-seeker.' Persons who have been over the now famous Mount Hood drive, and who have been over the Sheridan road, aver that the former pales Into insignificance in point of scenic attractions, when .com pared with the latter. Nowhere does sucN a i comparatively short distance carry one through auch a variety in the character of the land lying along different parts of the route. Leaving Yamhill's hay and grain fields and the parched vegetation along the road -,the hopflelds nestling around the foothills that fringe the edge of the VaJley, we are carried into the hills themselves. They were once green with a wealth of timber, but now they are barren, the work of forest fires. Immediately after leaving the hills, we , AN EPISODE FEASOR H9CABE WORKS 5 A PERSONAL REFORM me slttln' sideways on the stuffed chair. "Why, Langdon, dear," says maw, "this Ig Professor McCabe. I was speaking to you of him, you know." He looks me over friendly as If I was some yegg man that had been hauled out of the coal cellar. "Huh!" says he. I've heard freight engines coughln up a grade make a noise a good deal like that. - Say, as a rule I ain't anxious to take on new people, and it's gettin' so lately that we turn away two or three a week; but It didn't take me long to make up my mind that I could find time for a session .with Langdon. If he wanted It. "Your maw says you do a little boxin'?" says I. smooth and soothin. "What of It?" says he. "Well," eayB I, "down fo my studio we Juggle the kid pillows once in awhile ourselves, when we ain't doln' the wand drill, "or playin' bean bag." "Huh!" says he once more. For a parlor conversationalist, Langdon was a frost, and he has manners that would turn a subway guard green. But maw Jumps in with enough buttered talk for both, and pretty soon she tells me that Langdon's perfectly delighted and will be down next day. "Me and Mr. Gallaher'U be on the spot," says I. "Good ever.ln', ma'am." At that Pembroke Jumps up, makes a quick break-away, and trails along too, so we does a promenade together down West End avenue. "Charming young fellow, eh?" says Pembroke. wy-sBswr-y-''"'-'y','Y,J''-'-'-' Tw-y" -tw-y y?1- -. - . ' . : - 1 ' " i I w,-X t A."' O " ' ' iff ; .1 5" v. -r rJ J 'JV 1 ' Ix-v-- i f ' ifXr 7 ,'L - - - v il l t " K li.Ta voi5on6n middle) -.and two' find ourselves in the rocky, swampy mountainous, and almost barren lands which our Government has so gener ously set aside as an Indian reserva tion and allotted to the redman of the forest. As we pass the agency, a few of the remnants of a noble race stare wlde-mouthedly at us from their ponies and are lost in the distance. The agency consists of four large buildings, beside a large church. These buildings bear evidence of better times; evidently they were white once, but since the forced departure of those good and devoted women known as sisters of the Catholic faith, and the kind prlesf who ministered to their spiritual wants, they have been suf fered to dwindle to neglect and decay. Here In 1859 Rev. Andrlan Croquet came as a missionary to look after the spiritual Interests of the Indians. He devoted 40 years to unceasing, un selfish, sacrificing labor among them, and when he died In his native home of Belgium the work in which he had , - 114 NEW YORK LIFE wKtKciN PRO- "Sure!" says I. "But he hides it well." "You think Langdon needs exercise?" says he. "Never saw any one that needed It much worse," says I. "Just my notion," says. he. "In fact, I am so interested In seeing that Lang don gets it that I am quite willing to pay something extra, for" "You don't have to," says I. "I'm almost willin' to do the payln' myself." That pleaeeB Pembroke so much he has to stop right in his tracks and Bhake hands. Funny, ain't it. how you can get to be such good friends with anyone so sudden? We walks 30 blocks, chlnnln' like brothers, and when he stops on the corner of Forty-second I've got the whole story of maw and Langdon, with some of Pembroke's hist'ry thrown in. It was Just a plain case of mother beln' used as a doormat by her dear, darling boy. She was more or less broke In to It, for It seems that the late departed had been a good deal of a rough-houser in Ms day, havln' been about as gentle In his ways as a 'Leventh-avenue bartender entertalnln' the Gas House Gang. He hadn't much more'n quit - the game, though, before Langdon got big enough to carry out the programme, and he'd been at It ever since. As near as I could figure, Pembroke was a boyhood friend of maw's. He'd missed his chance of bein' anything nearer, years ago, but was still anx ious to try again. But it didn't look like there'd be any weddln' bells for him until Langdon either got his neck brpke 'HELLOW, FATTY I YOU HERE AGAIN?" .. .. jm members so tintalniihly devoted nis are was neglected, the Indians lapsed back Into their old ways, they lost their faith and the good priest's labor was worse than set at naught. Across from' the-agency Is the old blockhouse that Phil Sheridan erected during the Indian troubles, and In which he fought them with his small garrison. Upon leaving the reservation, the ascent .Into the Coast Range proper be gins. On all sides as we make the climb luxurious wealth of timber greets our eyes. From the summit we behold a alght that will not soon be forgotten. Our gaze takes . us over the heads of larger and smaller moun tains on all sides, and !n the distance we behold lofty sentinels towering far above us; all a,re robed with a verdure of green forest. Branching off in dif ferent directions through the hills and mountains are canyons, marking in many cases the course of some moun- " i or wae put away for life. Pemby wa'n't soured, though. He talked real nice about It. He said he could see how much maw thought of Langdon, and it showed what good stuff she was made of, her stickin' to the boy until he'd settled on something, or something had settled on him. Course, he thought it was about time she had a let up and was treated white for awhile. Aceordln' to the hints he dropped. I suspicions that Pembroke would have ranked her A-l in the queen class, and gathers that the size of her bank ac count don't cut any ice in this deal, him havln' more or less of a surplus him self. I guess he'd been a patient waiter; but he'd, set his hopes hard on engagin' the bridal state-room for a Spring trip to Europe. It al! comes back, though, to what could be done with Langdon. and that was where the form sheet wa'n't any help. There's a million or so left in trust for him; but he don't get it until he's 26. Meantime, it was a question of how you're goln' to handle a youngster that's inherited the Instincts of a truck driver and the Income of a bank presi dent. "It's a pity, too," says Pembroke. "He hasn't any vicious habits, he's rather bright, and if he could be started right he would make quite a man, even now. He needs to be caged up somewhere long enough to have some of the bully knocked out of him. I'm hoping you can do a little along that line." "Too bla- a contract," says I. "All I want Is to make his ears buzz a little, tain stream of purest water. Much of the land before us has never been trod by the foot of man; the sportsman will Indeed find this a veritable para dise. It matters not whetner he is af ter deer, elk, fish or Just a common teddy bear," his fondest hopes will be gratified If lie half tries! After leaving the summit the road runs through one of tnese canyons and follows a stresm of pure, limpid water. To say that the scenery through this canyon is grand wouHl be putting It mildly. It is simply gorgeous. High cliffs and steep mountain sides loom up on every hand. Castle Rock Is one of the sights of this canyon that will not soon be forgotten. Meanwhile our driver Is riot un mindful of his purpose to have an ideal highway constructed, and frequently he will stop to talk -"good roads' to such residents along the road as we may happen to meet. It may be a common laborer, a farmer, a tourist or r . . , , at even the road supervisor niinwn, n. just as a comeback for a few of them grunto he chucked at me." And who do you suppose showed up at the studio ,iext forenoon? Him and maw; she sminn' all over and tickled to death to think she'd got him there; Lang don actin' like a bear with a sore ear. "Maybe you hadn't better wait," says I to her. "Oh, yes," says she. "I goln' to at and watch dear Langdon box, you know. ' Well, unless I ruled her out flat, there was no way of changin' her mind, so I had to let her stay. And she saw Langdon box. Oh, yes! For an amateur, he puts up a fairly good - exhibition, and as I didn't have the heart to throw the hook Into him with her slttln" there luokln" so cheerful, about all I does is step around and block hia swinga and Jabs. And say, with him carryin' his guard high, and leavln' the way to his meat safe open half the time. It was all I could do to hold myself back. The only fun I gets Is watohln" Swlfty Joe's face out of the corner of my eye. He was plpln' us off from the start. First his mouth comes open a foot or so as he sees me let a chance elide, and when I misses more openln's he takes on a look like some one had fed him a ripe egg. Langdon IB bavin' the time of his life. He can hit as hard a he likes, and he don't get hit back. Must have seemed real homelike to him. Anyway, soon's he dopes It out that there ain't any danger at all, he bores in like a snow plow, and between blockin' and duckln' I has my hands full. Just how Langdon has it sized up I couldn't make out; but like as not I made somothln" of a hit with Mm. I put 1 down that way when he shows up one afternoon with his bubble, and offers to take me for a spin. It' was so unexpected to find, him tryln' to do Bomethin' agreeable that I don't feel like I ought to throw him down. So I pulls on a sweater and climbs In next to the steerin' wheel. There wa'n't anything fancy about Langdon's oil wagon. He'd had the ton neau stripped off. and left Just the front seat no varnished wood, only a coat of prlmin' paint and a layer of mud splashed over that. But we hadn't gone a dozen blocks before I am wise to the fact that nothin' was the matter with the cog wheels underneath. "Kind of a high-powered cart, ain't it?" says I. "Only 90-horse," says Langdon, jerkin' us around a Broadway car so fast that we grazed both ends at once. "You needn't hit 'er up on my account," says I, as we scoots across the Plaza, makin' a cab horse stand on his hind legs to give us room. "I'm only on the second speed," says he. "Wait." and he does some monkeyln' wit!) the lever. 'Maybe It was Central Park; but It seems to me like bein' shot through a Christmas wreath, and the next thing I knows we're tearin" up Amsterdam avenue. 8y, I can see 'em yet, them folks and wagons and things we missed women holdln' kids by the hand, old ladles steppln' out of cars, little girls runnin' across the street with their arms full of bundles, white wings with their dust cans, and boys with delivery carts. Sometimes I'd just shut my- eyes and lis ten for the squashy sound, and when It didn't come I'd open 'em and figure on" what would happen if I should reach out and get Langdon's neck In the crook of my arm. And it wa'n't my first fast ride in town, either. But I'd never been behind the matters not Mr. Watson's theory II that every little bit helps. Upon leaving the canyon the fertile Xesturca Valley looms Into view, and we are soon passing over high river grades, through short stretches of for est and past prosperous-looking farm houses. Evidences of civilization again appear. We are In God's own country. Here the gentle bosBy holds sway. Every school district has one or two creameries; this county supplies the world with dairy products. Tillamook la at the head of Tilla mook Bay, the largest between the Co lumbia and the Golden Gate. It is 29 miles from the point where we have left the canyon, but to get there now means but a matter of 1 or two hours. So tomorrow, or even today, il the day is still young, which It Is very likely to be, you may go for a spin around the bay and along the ocean beach. It will pay you. Tillamook, Or., Aug. II. lamps when a two-ton machine was bein' sent at a 60-mlle clip up a Htreet crowded with folks that had almost as much right to be llvin' an we did. It was a game that suited Langdon all right, though. He's sriuattln' behind the wheel bareheaded, with his ketohup tlnted hair plastered back by the wind, them purple eyes shut to a squint, his under jaw stuck out, and a kind of hall giln If you could call It that Illckerm on and ofT his thick lips. I don't wonder men shook their flats at us and women turned white and sick as we cleared 'em by the thickness of a sheet of paper. I expect we left a Btrlng of cuss words three blocks long. I don't know how fur we went, or where. It was all a nightmare to me, just a string of gasps and visions of what would be in the papers next day after the Coroner's Jury got busy. But some how we got through without any red on. the tires, and pulls up in front of the studio, I didn't Jump out In a hurry, like I wanted to. I needed a minute to think, for It seemed to me something was due some one. "Nice little plaything you've got here." says I. "And that was a great ride. But Bittin' still so long has kind of cramped my legs. Don't feel like llmberin' up a bit with the mit.i. do you?" "I'd Just as soon," says Langdon. I was tryln' not to look the way I felt; but when we'd sent Swlfty down to sit In the machine, and I'd got lansdoit peeled off and standln' on the mat, with, the spring lock snapped between him and the outside door, it seemed too good to be true. I'd picked out an old set of gloves that had the hair worked away from the knucklea some, for I wa'n't plannin' on any push ball plcnlo this time. Just to stir his flghtln' blood, and partly so I could be sure I had a good grip on my own temper. I let him get In a few facers on me. Then I opens up with the side remarks I'd been thlnkin' over. "9ay, Langy," says I. "side steppin one of his swings for my Jaw, "s'poain' you'd hit some of them people, eh? S'posin' that car of yours had caught one of them old women biff ! like that?" "Ugh!" says Langdon, real surprised. But he shakes his head and comes back at me. "Ever stop to think," says I, "how one of them kids would look after you'd got him so?" and I shoots the left into that bull neck of his. "S-s-s-say!" sputters Langdon. "What do -you think you're doln' anyway?" "Me?" says I. "I'm just tryln' to get a few points on the bubble business. Is It more fun to Bmash 'em In the ribs bang! like that? Or to slug 'cm In the) head biff! so? That's right, son; come in for more. It's waitin'. There! Jarred your nut a bit. that one did, eh? Yes, here's the mate to it. There's plenty more on tap. Oh' never mind tho nose claret. It'll wipe off. Keep your guard up. Careful now! You're swlngin" wide. And, as I was sayln' there, you ran into that one this bubble scorchin' must be great sport. When you don't biff! get 'em bill you can scare 'em to death, eh? Wabbly on your feet, are you? That's the stuff! Keep it up. That eye's all right. One's all you need to see with. Gosh! Now you've got a pair of 'em." If It hadn't been for his comin' In so ugly and strong I never could have done it. I'd have weakened and let up on him long before he'd got half what was owln". But he was bound to have It all. and there's no sayln' he wa'n't game about it. At the last I tried to tell him he'd had Concluded an rase A.X 1 05.2 I n