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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Aug. 9, 1908)
TIIE SUNDAY OREGOXtAX, PORTLAND, AUGUST .0, 1903 6 V V K c ISzJl II - : 't-Jtw'N Panel Effects on Mid-Summer Frocks HAVE you ever noticed that it Is a "frock" In Summer and a "gown" in Winter? To the feminine mind, the distinc tion is not so subtle as It appears la type, for -frock" suggests simplicity, airiness and youth, while "frown" hints st dignity, richness and more or less elaboration. Certainly the Summer frock of 1908 Is airy and youthful, but, alas, not simple, and no one feature contributes more to Its elaboration than a panel. A panel can never be simple, and it generally Involves trimming within its borders and as an outline. In the up-to-date lingerie frock the panel la absolutely essential. Quite generally It runs from the edge of the deep voke to the hem of the front gore, and then on the sides and back maller panels are introduced. Even sleeves are paneled to match. On some of the finer frocks, like batiste, handkerchief linen, mull, etc, tills panel Is made entirely of hand-run tucks, a most ex acting operation for the home seam stress. Again tine or coarse lace In sertion will alternate with horizontal tucking-, in groups; or, with batiste tucking, a very open Insertion sug gesting Irish crochet pattern Is Intro duced ARaln the panels may be of allover embroidery, outlined by Val insertion or line pleatlngs of Val, though the latter mean that the frock must be ent to the dry cleaner when soiled, which Is an item. Insertion or lace rurTling Is better than the kolfe-pleat-Ing of lace which Is so charming when new, but bunchy and inelegant if poorly laundered. In silk frocks the panels are out lined by braid of rather broad novelty patterns or with bias bands of the1 same fabric, piped with contrasting color. Often a panel of lace, dyed to match the silk, is Introduced, or with pongee silk of natural tone an ecru lace Is used. A very striking silk frock recently seen at Newport was of bril liant almost grass-green silk, with a panel from yoke to hem of point de Venise allover, picked out with heavy gold thread. The tucker worn above this panel was of extremely fine silk net embroidered In gold thread. Much braiding is also seen on the silk panel and the very latest fad is an applique of cloth on silk, outlined with soutache braid or embroidery. For cloth dresses almost invariably the panel effect Is secured by braiding with soutache or a combination ot soutache with novelty braid. On linen suits, eitner coarse lace or braiding is employed. Figure A shows an excellent method of Introducing the panel effect In wash material in wtiat is known hs the seml-prlneess design. In this pattern the yoke and panel nave the appear ance of being In one. In the front, while the blouse and skirt at sides and in the back are connected by a shaped girdle. This works up stunningly if plain and allover embroidered batiste are combined with German Val lace. In this connection, very pretty lin gerie hats of the Charlotte Corday or basket shape can be evolved from edg ing to match the frock, and trimmed with huge bows of moss-green ribbon and pink roses, one of the season's fa vorite combinations. In Figure B you have the princess Jumper frock with panel effect extend ing from the shoulder 10 the hem of the skirt. This illustration' was drawn from a gown of white pique trimmed with heavy lace in Imitation Irish crochet pattern. A wider hand of the Insertion was used around the sides and back gores of the skirt, and tho gulmpe was of very line allover batiste embroidery. Thi hnt worn with this frock is one of the mid-Summer novelties, a pic turesque leghorn crowned with roses and finished with streamers of white mousseiine dotted with palest pink rings. These streamers are most be coming to a young girl, and the softer and more picturesque, the better. The elaborate linen suit shown in Figure C depends for its charm upon the treatment of the jacket, an odd combination of Louis and Japanese ef fects. The sleeves are distinctly ki mono, without any under pieces, and re heavily inerusted with lace and braiding In white cotton soutache. 'I he cut of the coat in the back Is Louis, but the front line is broxen by a point suggesting a vest. The skfrt has a panel effect easily Old Age and the Use of THE woman past 60 is very apt to think that for her all beauty-aids are futile. In this view she Is mis taken. Father Time will leave certain marks on the human figure and face, but modern Invention and sclenara have done niuch to soften those marks. The real difficulty lies not with the remedy, but with the woman, who Is too easily re signed to her fading charms. Very often, too, the woman at 60 has more leisure and time to spend on her appearance than she had at 35. To em ploy this Intelligently and systematical ly is to her credit, and not a proof of folly or vanity. In fact, every member of her family will be the more proud of her If she aims to place herself in what is known as the Dresden class of elV.-rly women, those dainty, distinctly feminine persons, whose faces look youthful be nrath gray or wmte hair, whose hands ere plump and dimpled despite passing i ars and whose manners are sprightly. As a general warning to elderly wom en I should say never permit yourself to live In the past. This trick, more than anything else, will ae you. So often we hear women say: "Life holds nothing for m? now, save memories. I live with my loved ones in the past." That speech and crows' feet are boon companions. Naturally the woman of M or more finds herself dropping into reminiscences, but do not lndulse this habit even if it gives you a melancholy sort of pleasure. Find pleasure in those around you. Force yourself to be in t rested In their interests. Plan for the future. Neer permit yourself to think that your usefulness is entk-d or your capacity for enjoyment dulled. If you cannot play tennis, you certainly can tike brisk jvalks In the fresh morning air and p'aji bridge later In the day. And there Is no law written, or unwrit ten, against your playing golf. Do not dress In what is known as a kittenish fashion, but do not think that because years are overtaking you, you must wear dun-co!ored raiment. Do not brush your hair back severely from your face and don an uncompromising toque. Fluff your hair on either side If you part it. and under no circumstances wear a severe pompadour unless you have classic features and a stately carriage. Anrl right hern. I want to warn the ideriy woman who would be attractive attained by the use of soutache braid to outline the front gore. This with the braiding around the applied bands of linen on the side and back gores is done In the form of scallops. In the center of which crocheted linen but tons are sewn. The semi-princess frock holds Its own against all comers, and undoubt edly w-111 be In vogue when the brief M&A&m Mm art, -ixvr.a .m MW 111' MM f m $ mW( LMlllliifF ' FIG. B JUMPER DRESS OF WHOTE IMITATION IRSH reign of the so-called sheath skirt and the directoire gown Is over. While the dally press glitters with gossip about the sheath gown, reliable dealers and importers all say that it will not be accepted by thu American women gen erally. A few women of the stage, seeking notoriety may wear them, and women of ample means who desire to strike a note of originality in cress In their own boudoir or for their day at home may have one to match the tinting of the room, but purely as a fad, not for common wear. On the other hand, the Directoire gown is finding real favor among slen der women. The only obstacle which against the use of hair dyes.' Nothing will bring out the lines and wrinkles In your face more surely than . the appli cation of a dye to your fading hair. It gives a hard look to the entire face which Is indescribable. If your hair is the muddy gray. Just between the natural color and white, there Is no harm In hastening the whiten ing process and Just now pure white hair is considered very smart. This can be done by the use of peroxide of hydro gen and ammonia, applied with a soft tooth brush to the hair, which must be separated into small strands. Then the hair, is thoroughly rinsed in tepid water In which a little blueing has been dis solved. In washing white hair, always edd a little blueing to the rinse water as this prevents the ugly yellow look, especially with oily hair. Do not curl your hair with the Iron, as this has a tendency to break hairs which you cannot afford to lose. Better far to use soft rags or patent curlers over night, and right here I want to speak of the night-cap -which is enjoying a decided revival. Make this of very thin China silk. Interlined with fine sheet wadding in which you strew sachet powder. This gives a clwirming perfume to the hair and wards ofT dangers from draughts If you sleep near an open window. A very common defect peculiar to old age Is bushy eye-brows. If your brows begin to thicken and turn bristly, con sult a surgeon or specialist and have the superfluous hairs removed. Do not attempt to do this yourself, as you are apt to break them near the ropt, not remove them, and they will grow out all the thicker. There Is a knack In pulling out roots and all, and at the hands of a specialist It is net painful. Keep the brows finely arched, and to do this use a soft brush, dipped In alcohol or toilet water. . Either learn to massage your face- or have a specialist do this regularly, say twice a week, with the following astringent cream which is especially fine for a flabby condition ot the skin: Mutton tallow, 1 pound; glycerine. 6 ounces; tincture of bemoin, 2 drachms; spirits of camphor, 2 drachms; powdered alum, H drachm; best Russian isinglass, 1 drachm: orangeflower water. 2 ounces. Try out the mutton tallow In an en amel saucepan. It should yield about a teacup of fat. about the same quantity as you have of glycerine. In a double stands in the way of Its general adop tlon Is the fact that the majority of the women In America who can afford a large wardrobe are overfed, there fore too stout for the demands of the Directoire style. The massive woman finds it Impossible. The maternal fig ure Is made absurd by It. And of the willowy type of woman there are but few. Fashion has tried hard to force the I. U PIQUE, WITH INSERTIONS OF CROCHET. long sleeve back Into favor, but the American woman seems to enjoy baring her arm, and only the woman who Is keen about keeping her clothes up to the top notch of fashion and who has a slender arm to boot is wearing the long, crinkly mousquetalre sleeve which years ago was brought Into style, by Mme. Bernhardt. The styles are not yet settler! for Fall, and there Is a marked spirit of unrest In all the smart establishments. None Is brave enough to tell Just which way the wheel will spin, whether the Winter will be one of greater pic turesqneness or whether the Summer's madness In frocks will have a reaction In favor of tailored raiment. Beauty Aids boiler mix these two ingredients and the powdered alum. In another sauce pan, over a gentle flame, dissolve the Isinglass In the orangewater, and beat this Into the mixture in the double boil er. Last, add the benzoin and the cam phor, stirring constantly. Strain and pour Into porcelain Jars to harden. ' For scrawny, wrinkled hands, try mas saging with olive oil. First warm half a cupful of pure olive oil In an enameled dish, set In a larger one of hot water. Ay'ash your hands until perfectly clean and allow them to soak In clear hot water for at least :o minutes this to open the pores and make them recep tive. Pat the hands nearly dry, then drop a little of the warm oll Into one hand and massage the other; ' alternate the hands until the skin refuses to ab sorb another drop of the oil. Wipe the hands dry with a 6oft cloth, but do not wash them. After doing this dally for a few weeks, you will And your hands plumping out again. KATHERINE MORTON. What to Wear With' a Dutch Neck PERHAPS It would be well for me to begin by telling. you what not to wear with a Dutch neck, for so many women seem to select something quite out of place. For Instance, a dog collar is to be worn with a decollette gown only. A girl who wears a high dog collar of imitation pearls and a lawn dress cut with a Dutch neck Is badly dressed. And you cannot wear colored ribbons tied about your throat with a huge bow at the back. Still another style which Is exceedingly bad form Is wearing a soft maline bow about the throat. The silk ribbon ts never good taste with anything, and the dog collar and maline are for de collette evening gowns only. If the prevailing style of oollarless blouses is becoming to you, then do not tie anything at all about your throat during the Summer season. If you are blessed with a pretty throat, whiv'h, by the way. is not a common thing, show it to the best advantai Mm WmMw , mm mW and that Is bare. However, many girls with thin throats, long necks, etc.. do not look well In the Dutch neck frock; then a piece of black velvet ribbon, ranging from a half to a full inch wide, will make the most unbecoming blouse attractive. If you cannot have many things, and have little money to spend, then the piece of black velvet, tied snugly about the throat Is your best investment. Some of these strips of black velvet come with three lit&le slides of bril liants on them ready to clasp about the throat. Most of the department stores keep this trinket at the Jewelry coun ter. Look through mother's Jewelry box and see if you cannot find an old fashioned locket, for this is really the smartest accessory to the Dutch neck dress. Hang the locket on a tiny gold chain, which fits the throat comfortably, and clasp- about your throat.. An old fashioned cross Is also quaint on a cer tain type of girl, not the athletic girl who wears starched linen skirts, but the dainty, fluffy girl who wears a cling ing mull gown, made without a collar. A string of' Imitation pearls or colored beads make a pretty finish to these blouses. Lavalieres of all sorts, are of course much in evidence, but care should be given to coloring. For Instance do not wear your corals with a Copenhagen blue dress. Do not wear purple beads with a brown frock. Many of these col ored beads can be purchased for as little as 50 cents a string, and the averaffe girl can afford two or three sets. The girl in mourning will find strings of beads In black, gray, lavender and the Imitation pearls and white coral. If she is still wearing all black, either the black beads or the pearls will be proper, while in second mourning she could wear any of the ones I mention. There has been a, strong revival of the string of gold beads since the introduc tion of the collarless blouse. Many girls will find that they still have the string which they had as a child. If the set you have is too tight for you. any Jew eler can lengthen them," in such ways as re-stringing them loosely, putting on a long clasp, etc. And let me finish by saying that the girl with the very long, thin neck and high collar bones and the elderly woman whose double chin has begun to fall away should not wear a Dutch neck at all. Both should wear shaped collars made of transparent lace and Insertion, boned to keep them In place. MARY DEAN. Timely Dishes for Hot Weather THE housewife with any respect ior I her nerves and temper will so ar range her cooking In midsummer as to let the fire go out within a few hours after breakfast. She need not Imagine that the man. coming home from his of fice at the end of a hot day, will demand the typical hot dinner. If she could fol low him to his restaurant or lunch coun ter down town she would hear him ask ing for the cold dish menu. With tea ready to ice In a glass or-china pitcher. a crisp salad with a dressing made from olive oil, a cold meat, fish or egg dash and a nourishing dessert, all of which can be prepared before 10 o'clock in the morning, she will find her husband well satisfied, and she will save her own strength for a more worthy cause. Beef Loaf While meat is tabooed in some households during very hot weather. a cold loaf will be. found very appetizing. Have your butcher grind three pounds of lean beef. Heat one cup of milk and stir in one cup of dry bread crumbs, two eggs beaten light, salt, pepper, a small grated nutmeg and one small onion chopped very fine. Mix with this the chopped beef, pack Into a buttered mold and bake In a slow oven for two hours. Test by running a fork or knife through the center. It blood follows the utensil bake 16 or 20 minutes longer. When cold turn out on a platter, garnish with slices of lemon and parsley and serve with horseradish sauce, made from beating equal parts of prepared horseradish and thick sweet cream. ' Jellied Chicken Draw, pick and wipe very clean a small chicken, cover with warm water and simmer until the meat slips from the bones and there remains of the water about a coffee cup full. Lift out the meat, and cut or shred Into good-sized pieces, throwing out all fat, bone and- gristle. Bklm the fat from the liquor, add pepper and salt to season very highly, then bring to a boll with Fig. A Semi-Princess Gown of Em broidered Batiste with Panel Effect. half an ounce of gelatine, which has been dissolved in Just enough cold water to cover it. Pour this over the shredded chicken, stir thoroughly and pack Into a mold to form. Serve on a bed of let tuce and pass apple or crab apple Jelly with it. Rice Cream with Peaches X nourish ing dessert. In a double boiler cook half a cup of rice In a quart of milk, add half teaspoon of salt. If you soak the rice over night It will save time in the cooking. Have ready a tablespoon of gelatine dissolved In cold water. Then heat It until clear, strain and heat In the hot rice. Add a teacup of sugar. Al low the mixture to cool and add a teacup of cream, whipped stiff. Pour the whole Into a mold. When ready to serve, turn out of the mold and encircle the creamed rice with peaches sliced and sugared, or you can stew the peaches with Just enough water to make a rich syrup and serve these ice cold around the creamed rice. Vacation Days and Letter Writing VACATION days bring certain obliga tions in correspondence which none of us can avoid. And, Indeed, If we wish to be popular with Summer friends and hold their friendship through the on coming Winter, we do not desire to avoid these obligations. First, when you find yourself really started on train or boat, you will dis cover among your traveling Impedimenta FIG. C- vt V'Mlf M mm 1 -LINEN SUIT WITH PANEL OUTLINED WITH SOUTACHE BRAID AND CROCH ETTED BUTTONS. little gifts from home-staying friends, a box of candy from one man, a new novel from another, a tidy little silken "house wife" from some nimble-fingered girl friend, and a morocco-hound volume, "A Line a Day" or "The Story of My Trip," from another. Every fair vacationist should be sup plied with nice note-paper or the large Fancy Work for the Summer Days IN FANCY work, as in all other branches of Industry, fashion seems to have taken a decidedly practical turn, and the ornate centerpieces, done In gaudy silks, over which girls spent weeks and weeks of hard labor, have given way to hand made underwear. Indeed, hand-embroidered shirtwaists are not seen as much as they were last year all the young girls turning their attention to dainty lingerie. Almost everything is done In eyelet and convent style of embroidery. These nana made bits of underwear can be pur chased readv-made in all the shops, but most women take great pride in turning out the dainty articles at home. Night gowns all have the kimono 6leeves and are cut In one. or at the most, two pieces. Chemises have come back into fashion, and even the stout woman can wear them If she cuts them from a pat tern with very little fullness about the hips. Drawers are well fitted about the hip line, with circular ruffles, buttonhole about the edge. One of the newest wrin kles about a chemise is not to Join the shoulder seams. Finish it off with but tonhole edare. and work a buttonhole on each side, and slip dainty ribbon through them, thus tying the snouiaer togetner with a little bow. . If laca is utilized on underwear in con nection with this eyelet work, torchon of a fine quality should be used. A fine French Val is quite out of place with this type of embroidery, and wears out long before ths garment does. The newest work bags are embroidered linen. Silk bags for fancy work are quite out of date. These linen catch-alls are made of daintily colored linens. Including the natural tone. One of the smartest haes seen this year was made of a fine quality of pale green linen, embroidered In maidenhair ferns. It was lined with a darker shade of green China silk, the lin ing showing at the top about two inches. forming a frill about the top of the linen bag. Another was made of light blue linen done In a Dutch design In old blue Roman floss. These bags wash beauti fully. Perhaps the smartest things In embroid ered belts are made of white silk moire belting, which can be purchased at the ribbon counter of any department store. Do not get moire ribbon, but insist upon having the heavy belting. Have the back of the belt stamped and embroider all in white scroll design. Fllo silk is heavy enough, but the design must first be pad square cards on which brief notes can be written. L'se these to acknowledge your farewell gifts, and write them promptly. Do not say, "In a day or so 1 will write her a long letter and tell her all about the re sort, the hotel, the guests, etc." A note of thanks written promptly is worth a dozen long letters half filled with apol ogies. If you are going from one house party .to another, do not allow your newly-ac-'quired hostess and her plans for your pleasure to make you forget your last hostess. Write your bread and butter note within 48 hours after you take leave of your hostess. I am not a believer in the practice of spending half the vacation writing volum inous letters, but I do believe in brlef ded with soft thread. Belts of ecru are also very smart Just now. The latest of these seem to be worked In the Walla ehlan embroidery In brown floss. The edires should be buttonholed, and a de sign should be selected that runs all around the belt. Kmbroider in shades of brown with just a touch of pink scat tered through It. Finish off In front with a buckle made of heavy ecru lace or mother of pearl buckle. The lace buckle can be made at home by cutting heavy pasteboard the shape you wish it, then cover the form with linen like the belt, and finally cover with the lace. These make very effective buckles tor the ecru belts. Coronation braiding, both for table linen and wearing apparel. Is still popular. A beautiful shirtwaist was seen the other day. done In a daisy design. The daisies were outlined in the coronation braid, and the centers done in French knots of Ro man floss. The combination of the floss and the braid was most effective. Dainty corset covers are made of hand kerchief lawn, and all the seams are fcatherstltched. At the left side of the blouse portion, mark out a circle with a large Bpool and featherstitch all around this, and within- the circle embroider your name, "Elise," "Eleanor," and whatever it may be. This is the latest method of marking all personal linen. Fine German Val lace and insertion should be used on corset covers of this quality. MARY DEAN. Cool Reading. Th frost is on the window pane. And Icicles adorn each Bill; The snow- is heaped on field and plain. And garbed In white is yonder hill. The blazlne fagots on the hearth With ruddy glow light up the ncens; I'm writing now for all I'm worth For some December magazine. Outside, I hear the children shout. It Is a sleigh ride passing by: Ah. vouth is there without a doubt. , Tho spring of life for them is nigh. Now biting blows the bitter wind. The storm-door bangs and drifts ar seen. Don't think that I have lost my mind, Tis for some Winter magazine. From father's heard there droop tonight Three Icicles of slender size; His heavy coat Is frosted white. But Joy Is shining in his eyes. Fur mother quickly ,brlngs to him Hot toddy in a soup'tureen; I'm writing this with all my vim. For some December magazine. I Now quick into the oven hot. Poor father puts his frozen feet; And by his side our faithful Spot. Lies down to get hi share of heat. And 'round the Are we sit and chat Of days when the trees are green; It's mighty hot. I tell you that. To flil a Winter magazine. V , Detroit Free Press. notes to those who cannot share the va cation or who have done something to make the vacation possible. Drop a few lines once a week to the mother who helped you plan the trip and your clothes, to the father who supplies the funds, and to Aunt Mary who gave you a pretty fan, or a scarf to complete the Summer wardrobe. This is important. I have known more than one hostess to look with uplifted eyebrows at the girl who reoelved a telegram from home de manding frantically whether she had ar rived in safety. You owe courtesy to your parents as well as to the stranger within your gates. This Is the time, too, to show apprecia tion of the favors young men showed you during the Winter in town. A few grace ful, friendly lines, telling them In Imper sonal fashion of the pleasures you are enjoying and the fact that you wish they might share them. The custom - of sending fancy postal cards continues, but a person of good breeding confines himself to Tlewg of scenery across which an Impersonal mes sage may be written. Confidences or messages of a personal nature should never be written' on a postal. In Writing home letters be very careful In selecting your style of address and the ' subject matter. In writing to a young man, unless you are on terms of boy-and-girl or family Intimacy, do not use the Christian name. For the average ac quaintance, "Dear Mr. Green" Is much safer than "Dear Jim." "Dear Friend" is quite obsolete. The same good taste and discretion should be shown In the signing of your letter. "Yours sincerely," "Cor dially yours," are In good taste. Such ex pressions as "Your aff. friend," "Yours devotedly" are In very bad taste. Indeed. In these home letters, do not dilate upon your vacation conquests, or try to picture yourself as the belle of the resort. Be sure that your letters will he passed from friend to friend, and green-eyed Jealousy will proceed to make sad sport of your . claims, real or pretended. If there are dangers lurking In corre spondence with friends at home, rest as sured that even more fatal are the possi bilities of the correspondence which may spiing up between vacationists who fall into tho snare of Summer-time intima cies. Do not take your Summer acquaintances too seriously. Remember Hint many of them are putting the best foot foremost for a few brief vacation wrcks: ami. in town, far from the glamor of shadowy porches, moon-bathed walks and lakes, they may not prove such desirable ac quaintance. When you separate, do not plunge into intimate, contldential corre spondence. Try them out with a few im personal, merely friendly, never intimate letters. So many girls write and ask me anxious questions on this topic. "How will I know whether the young man I met tills Sum mer at the Pleasure Hotel wishes me to correspond with him, when we both go back to town?" "Who suggests the idea of corresponding, the man or the girl?" It is the man's prerogative to BUggest that a correspondence be established, and the girl who usurps this privilege Is apt to pay more or less dearly for her Indiscre tion. Kither the man will draw her out and have In his possession a collection of gushing letters which some day she will wish had not been written, or he will write a few letters and then discourteous ly drop the correspondence. If the man suggests the correspondence, the girl has nothing to fear or regret, provided she shows discretion in penning hor own let ters. When the camp or vacation party breaks up, the man who wishes to near from you, dear girl, will certainly know how to secure this privilege and you should make him consider it a privilege, not something that you hold cheaply and are only too anxious to grant. He will ask for your city address. If he has not already learned it, and If he lives at some distance, will ask the privilege of writing to you as soon as he returns to town. If he does not do this, under no circumstances make the suggestion on your part. Just consider your Summer meeting In the light of an Incident that has been closed for both. Do not take It seriously. The Summer laddie will be forgotten and forgiven directly you get back to town among your old friends. PRUDENCE STANDISH. The Etiquette of Glove-Wearing GLOVES are a very important factor of every costume, because it Is un avoidable that they should be in plain view all the time. Many a pretty dress has been ruined by the gloves worn with It, all because the wearer did not know the etiquette, as it were, of glove wearing. If a few simple rules are learned the rest comes easily. In the first place, colored gloves should be eschewed, the term colored meaning gloves of pink, blue, green and reddish tints. Red-brown is allowable, especially In Winter; brown and black and gray are always good; white is seldom out of place, and this year yellowish and pink ish yellow gloves are considered stylish. There is no occasion and no time when it is strictly good form and good tasts to wear gloves of any color save those mentioned. If the dress is in a dark shade green, navy blue, crimson wear black, dark gray or brown Rloves-on all ordinary oc casions; if the dress Is in white or some light color, wear white or yellowish gloves. Brown gloves are good for a'l tailored suits, but they are not considered dressy unless the whole costume be of the same shade. White gloves are always proper and an solutely necessary wilh full dress ex cept on rare occasions, when the costume is all black. Black gloves are good stylo, hut rather somber for evening dress. It is not good taste to wear black gloves with white or very light dresses, particularly In Summer. Yellowish and pinkish yellow gloves are much worn, but only with colored dresses, and not In the evening. Of course, white dresses demand white gloves. Gray gloves at the moment are not much in favor, but when they are worn they usually accompany black tailored suits or gray costumes, either tailored or dressy. Not only must the color be correct and appropriate, but the material must also be taken into consideration. Glace kid gloves are imperative for full dress except in very hot weather and may be worn with almost any cos tume. Glace kid is expensive, but it wears and cleans well.
