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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (May 17, 1908)
TIIE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, MAY 17, 1908. !!! KK'5FQnFnCE,Cfc; ?ASni0H5 & PEA.OTT jOlll Braid Queen of Summer Trimmings FASHION'S and fads move in circles, but not in nearly half a century has braid enjoyed the vogue of the pres ent season. It appeared in small quan tities on Winter frocks of 1907-8 and by Spring It was generally shown in all the shops. Just now, with Summer j?owns on the work tables and overflowing the wardrobes, it is everywhere the most striking feature of midsummer modes. Cloth and silk dresses are encrusted with It, vests and vestees are almost solidly braided, and thinnest of fabrics., like habutai silks, mulls, all-over laces, batistes and nets are fairly weighed down with it. In a way, this is rather a fortunate form of trimming for the home dress maker, for if she masters the some what simple art of braiding flatly and without puckering the fabric beneath, she can secure very elaborate effects at little cost. On the other hand, braid illy applied or carelessly combined with other trimmings will ruin an otherwise effective costume. The new braids come in all widths and weights and weaves, from the finest of wash soutache, to the most marvelous of silk braids interwoven with lace or hand embroidered motifs on silk. The novelty braids show most elaborate patterns, and often three or even four colors in com bination. Much tinsel thread is also shown in the newer braids Intended for trimming silk or net frocks, while the wash braids are combined with heavy, washable laces. Incidentally, all wash braid should be shrunk before it is ap plied to tub frocks. Otherwise the trim ming will probably shrink and the fabric will not, thus giving the entire gown the appearance of having been drawn out" of shape by the application of the braid. Soutache braid either matching or har monizing with the fabric is first aid to the home dressmaker, and if tt is to give best results a simple pattern .must be chosen and carefully outlined by the use of per forated paper or accurate measurements wjth a basting thread. For Instance, per haps you are making a circular skirt with a shaped flounce above which you want a braided pattern. , If the material is silk or linen, shape your flounce, baste it un der the upper section of the skirt which is to be braided on the edge, and hang the skirt perfectly. Then rip off the flounce section, marking clearly where it is to le attached and proceed with your braiding. If you want a square scal loped effect on the upper section, cut it in square openings, absolutely even in shape and size, face on the under side, outline with braid, and then inside of each square or scallop braid an accurate geometrical pattern. Th's may be a diamond, each successive line of braiding making a smaller diamond until in the center you have just a knot of braid. Or you can interlace or cross your braid. Or you can trace a small Greek key or Wall of Troy pattern inside each of the squares. Tho bodice must be similarly braied. 1 f you have diamonds of braid on the skirt, outline your chemisette or yoke with 'smaller braid diamonds with two or three fine lines of braid runing on cither side. If you use an interlacing or crossing pattern, then trim the bodice with buttons made of the cloth and criss crossed with the braid. Several designs are shown today that admirably Introdxice the use of braiding. Figure A is a nine-gore circular skirt and a loose-fit tng jacket which develops splendidly in the new rough silks. As hero, shown it was in Copenhagen blue silk, finished with stitched bias bands at the foot of the skirt and around the en tire jacket.. Inside these bunds ran the home-made, trimming, a lovely combina tion of amber-colored silk and Copen hagen blue soutache braid, with French knots. The simplest geometrical design was cut from the amber silk and applied to the frock, then outlined with the fine silk braid against which, on the outer edge, French knots of Copenhagen blue ami amber silk floss were embroidered. In a natural colored pongee silk, the motifs outside the stitched 'bands could lie of heavy lace, like guipure, flirt or point de Venise, and a novelty braid, showing natural color, pale blue and pink, or green and lavender could be used. The tailored costume of (finely striped French cloth. Fig. B. has a nine-gored Good Treatment for Freckles BETWKKX her love of outdoor life and sports, and her fear of freckles, the thin-skinned girl certainly has her troubles- at this season of the year. She thinks that now she must choose between a golf or tennis record and her fair complexion. In a way her fears are groundless, especially if she has what might be called Summer-sunshine freckles only. There are two sorts of freckles, those which come from the direct rays of the sun in hot weather, and those which re main the year round, stubbornly refusing to yield to any sort of treatment, and whleh are known as "cold" freckles. fold freckles are practlcaly incurable. The only thing a girl can do is to pre vent their increase in number and dark ening In color by the most painstaking protective measures. .Many women write to me asking about various "skinning" processes. This means the complete skinning of the face, or removal of the scarf skin by a most painful process. And sad to- relate, as soon as the scarf skin grows again the freckles will come with it! So 1 say to the girl who has all-round the-year freckles, accept what you have philosophically and try to prevent more from appearing on your face. The simplest and safest lotion for re ducing the coloring of "cold" freckles is lemon Jul-e. If your skin is not too ten der, apply the lemon juice plain; if the skin is very tender and reddens under the touch of lemon add. mix glycerine and re water in equal proportions and add lemon juice as strong as your skin will endure it. This amount can be ascer tained only by actual test. If you have only a few freckles and these far apart, touch each freckle with a fine camel's hair brush, dipped in the lemon lotion, say night and morning. If the freckles are peppered thickly all over your face or in certain parts of the face, dfp a clean bit of old linen in the lotion and mop the affected parts with it. This same treatment may be used by the girl who is bothered by Summer freckles only. In her case, the lemon juice will cause the annoying blotches to disappear entirely, while it will only fade "cold freckles. Hut even more important than the use of this lotion is your care of the skin whenever you go out. either for Summer snorts or mere walking or driving. Fre- circular skirt, and natty jacket with cut away effect in the front and a Louis line In the back. Each gore is outlined almost to the knees with a combination braid pattern, which appears also on the jacket. In this case tan and golden brown ap peared in the cloth and golden brown in the braid. A half-Inch braid, showing NARROW AND WIDE BRAID FOR OUTLINING JACKET AND SKIRT OF FRENCH NOVELTY CLOTH SUIT. brown, tan and white, outlned the design, and inside this the finest of silk soutache in golden brown was criss-crossed like a fine-mesh net. The skirt in Fig. C gives one of ths very best effects obtainable by the use prtre the face very carefully. First rub a good cold cream thickly into the pores of the skin. Massage this in as thor oughly 83 if you were taking your daily beauty treatment and wipe off any excess of cream with a clean piece of oid linen. Then apply very carefully a pure face powder. 1 can recommend for this pur pose no better cold cream than the one whose formula was given In these col umns last week. - As to powder, if you are not sure as to the ingredients in the one you ordi narily use, make your own powder. It will cost you just as much as the pro prietary article, but you will have the satisfaction of knowing that it will not Injure your skin. Here is a simple formula for a harm less face powder: In a glass jar mix four ounces of pure talcum powder and eight ounces of pure distilled vinegar. Let this stand corked in a dark place for two weeks, shaking it once a day. Filter the mixture through v coarse brown paper to get rid of all the vinegar, then turn the moist powder into a jar filled with distilled water. rinse and shake thoroughly. Finally, filter again, and mix the powder with 15 grammes of spermaceti ground very fine, three grains of carmine and just enough violet toilet water to form a smooth paste. Put this mixture in a porcelain bowl or jar and cover with a piece of linen while it dries out. When dry and finely powdered, pack away in jars or boxes, and keep free from dust. The girl who "freckles" must not go bare-headed even at tennis or golf. She must train herself to wear a shade hat of some sort, best of all. one of the mf fly-fluffy sunbonnets which will not in the least detract from her appearance. When driving, motoring or going for long walks, she must don a veil, onefn either brown or red being best, as these two 'colors break or reject the blue and violet rays of the sun so conducive to freckles. The veil should be of chiffon, or silk, never an open-mesh veil with dots. Two simple remedies within the reach of every girl in the country are ripe to matoes, which may be split and used to rub the face, and horse radish mixed with sour milk. Th e la tt er Is sa id to be the very best preventive and cure for Summer freckles. Scrape horse radish very fine until you get a teaspoonful. Mix this with a cup of sour milk. Allow of braid, and the design can be applied to silk, cloth or tub fabrics. The skirt consists of alternate plain and pleated gores, nine in all. The plain gores or panel effects have a design In braiding near the foot, while the pleated gores are set into braied yoke1 pieces that come down well below the hip. For such a design the braiding .pattern known as the arabesque is most suitable. Fig. D shows a most effective linen blouse over a guimpe of embroidered batiste. The sleeve caps and upper part of the linen overblouse are cut in deep It to stand six hours, and apply two or three times a day with a soft linen cloth. KATHERINB MORTON. Many Wolves in Upper Michigan. Detroit Free Press. Estimates by the Federal Biological Survey to the effect that there are per haps 200 timber wolves in Upper Michigan are declared by woodsmen to be far under the mark. There are 15 counties In the peninsula and there are wolves In every one of them, particularly in the great stretches of wilderness with which the region abounds. Probably as many as 500 wolves have been killed the last year it is figured; still there appears to be as many of the animals in the woods now as 12 months ago. The Luce County Board recently ap proved the payment of bounties on 30 wolves, amounting at $30 a head to $900. and in Dickinson County bounties were paid on 17 wolves and 19 wild cats. Genius and Obesity. Strand Magazine. The annals of genius are filled to over flowing with the names of men who toiled and achieved fame under a full habit. Nothing can be more unjust than the gibe about "fat and folly" and fatness and in dolence. Martin Luther was as fat as Calvin was thin; Ernest Kenan's obesity did not obscure his insight and brilliancy. Many writers and speakers have too long spoken invidiously of fatness, but the best retort we have been able to glean in our researches into this weighty sub ject is that of C. H. Spurgeon, the famous preacher. 'People, said Spurgeon. "say I am fat. I am not fat. I am bone and flesh. My limbs, thank God. are amply clothed, and- 1 am in my right mind." Moose Drink at a Pump. Kennebec Journal. James Tibbetts. of the Neck road. Ben ton, has been entertaining strange com pany for several days. Early last week Mr. Tibbetts went to the barn and turned out his stock. When he stepped into the barnyard a few minutes lafW to start the water at the pump he was surprised to find a bull and a cow moose apparently waiting for the water. Mr. Tibbetts went directly to the pump and began raising water for the stock. As the water poured from the spout into the big trough among the first of the animals to reach it were the strangers. Each moose drank its quantity and then slowly walked past the farmer to a low plae in the fence where each vaulted over and v scallops, each faced, outlined with braid and finished with a braided trefoil pat tern. It will be noticed that the trefoils are larger at the lower points of the opening,- back and front, than on the shoulders. Great care must be taken to apply the braid thus, for heavy orna mentations on the shoulder detract from the good lines of the entire figure. In Fig."1 E is shown the simplest trim ming for linen suits. Here you find the overblouse and sleeves laid in broad tucks, a deep chemisette of finely tucked lawn, outlined by wash braid and fine crocheted buttons. On the delicately tinted linens and lawn, such as pink, blue lavender and yellow. FIGURE C. FIGURE D. FIGURE E. white -braid is much used, but on white frocks the best effects are secured by the use of white braiding only. The colored braids are very apt to "run, even in the hands of the most conscientious laund ress. MARY DEAN. struck off across the field in the direc tion of the woods. TrSvery morning since the creatures have appeared in the barnyard when Mr. Tib betts has turned on the water. The strange part of the affair lies in the fact that, the farm is well watered by three small brooks which keep running all Winter and the Sebasticook River is but a few hundred yards away. It i possible the creatures have discovered something in the brooks and in the river which sets their taste going in another direction, for they are watering regularly at the Tibbett's pump. The moose have never bothered the cows or the oxen, of the Tibetts herd, and the latter have never apparently paid any attention, to the presence of the strangers. Spring In England. Arthur Stringer in Everybody's Magazine. The flowering- quince flames up the cottage walls; Remote and soft the first low cuckoo calls: The skylark weaves its airy toweryof song; The telltale swallow-wort l thick along The grassy lanes, and o'er the softening green Of hedge and muffled -wall the peachboughs lean, ' The drowsy mash of lowland air with Spring Seems drowsier, the bees are on the wing. And throstle from the quiet churchyard sing r Where wallflowers from the crannied tombs make sweet The winding lane, the narrow village street. The young girls In the quiet doorways' 'dream. The upland plowman whistles to his team. Where merrily blow the grasses - in the ' breeze All starred with cowslips and anemones. And old men sit a-doslng in the sun..'. And count their wall-tree blossoms one by one. And hear the low-toned bell call down the hour With drowsy tongue from out the. old gray tower That seems to call Its children back again To sleep beneath the sunlight and the rain. And down the soft and dreamy afternoon The old bells tinkle out some old strange tune; And all the world seems old. and mid the green Lle ruins dark, deep glories that have been. Oh. this is not the careless joy and song Of Youth! These are the beauties that be long " To twilight countries old and wise in tears. To hills and homelands heavy- with their years! Too overscored by Time and Tragedy Kach soft green valley seems, too dak for me. The child of casual years and younger land. To know, as England knows, and understand! Good Form When Telephoning THE - telephone habit has assumed such large proportions that some space should be devoted to the subejet of telephone etiquette. There are' so many things that should be done at the telephone and so many more that might be left undone. For instance, what is the really cor- SILK AND BRAID MOTIF FOR rect way to call or answer a call ? Central opens the conversation with 'Hello." and your answer should come quickly, "377 Main, please." The "ploase" takes less than a sec ond and "Central" does hear It. According to business rules in a large city (and they are very good for social usage, too), the person who gets your FRIVOLITY IN FOOTWEAR EVERT season brings some fresh freak or fad for the Summer girl, and this year it is footwear. Never In the history of fashion have we had such frivolities in shoes and slippers, such variety In shapes, such vividness In tints. And in this respect, footwear is a matter of evolution. We started with white canvas footwear for the Sum mer girl, got around to fancy spats or gaiters for the Fail girl, cloth tops to match 'frocks for the Winter girl, and here we are, plunged in real footwear frivolities for Summer, 1908. First in the list of frivolous things come the patent leather vamps with uppers to match the gown exactly. Tou can have this In cloth or leather. That is, if your frock is of lavender silk incrusted with lace, your shoes will "be high, with patent leather vamps and uppers of lavender cloth or leather, the patent in either the kid glove or suede finish. Next to the highly tinted uppers come pumps of black patent leather with a band of cloth or vividly tinted leather around the instep. This may match the frock, or, for general wear. It may be of vivid yellow chamois. For house wear, you will see patent leather pumps finished with bands of tinel ribbon, silver, gold or copper. White canvas shoes have given way at really smart Summer resorts to pumps and ties in natural colored chamois skin or patent leather with chamois skin in combination. Among the novelties noted for house wear are si ippers of brocade, with a rose or other flower at the point of the shoe, outlined with iridescent beads, gold, silver or pearl or rhlne stone. Three straps appear on these slippers with buckles to match the beading or Jeweling on the toe. An other conceit showed a slipper of soft est brown suede picked out with a pattern in topaz, while an exquisite gray suede slipper was siudded with opals and had opals in the buckles. A great deal of white beading Is used to trim both black and brown shoes, and brown suede ties with buck call does not say "Hello," but repeats his or her own number, "277 Main,' sim ply to show you that you have your number. For Instance, in the Western Union offices employes at the telephone do not say 'Hello." but respond to a call with - "Western Union," and you start directly with your message or con- TRIMMING COSTUME OF ROUGH SILK. versatlon. Big department stores use the same system. If you have called up a store or of fice, you then say: "I wish to speak with Mr. Jones." and nine cases out of ten the telephone operator will reply: "Who wishes to speak with him?" Right there the average woman com mits her first offense against telephone les of copper were worn by a smartly f rocked girl at a recent studio tea. By contrast, 'hosiery worn with these fancy shoes and pumps Is extremely plain. Solid coiors in fine lisle and silk come to match all the new shades in costume fabrics, put tne openwork stocking and its gaily embroidered cousin have retired In the face of the very frivolous shoes. MARY DEAN. Kngland's Largest Landowners. Tit-Bits. The Marquis of Stafford, who is in his 20th year, is heir to the most extensive domain, if not the largest rent roll, en joyed by any subject of Kind Edward. More than 1,000.000 acres in England and Scotland are under the lordship of his father, the Duke of Southerland. while the Marquis of Breadalbane. who is prob ably the next largest proprietor in the kingdom, does not own half that amount of land. The Song of Toll. Chicago Post. Sinjr me the son of the hammer blow As it clangs on the Iron beam; Sinn- me the Bong of. the forges' glow ' And the white-hot rivet's gleam; Chant me the strain of the trudging feet In the deep drumbeat of toll. For the song is sweet in the. buBy street And across the upturned soil. Sing me the song of the brawny hands And the shoulders ridged and wide. Where the muscles rise like to cable strands With the might of a strong man's pride; Voice me the chant of the fingers skilled And the rising dome and wall. For the Iord hath willed that the men who build Shall be honored over all. Ye that have sung us the songs of war And coving songs of love. Know ye what labor was given for And the -grace 'tis fashioned of? Know ye the sons; of the ancient years. Of the rule and plane and plow The chant that cheers every one that hears As It echoes to us now? It echoes on through the centuries In th rlo of the swinging- saws. And it shakes the souls of the men of ease Till It icives their dreamlngs pause. It has surged Its way or the desert sands And through cities long forgot For the strength that stands In a strong man's hands Is a strength that falters not. Sing me the song; of the clanging sledge And the wrinkled, sweating brow. Of the foot that steps on the sky's thin edge. And the form that does not bow. For I know that deep In the hearts of men Is the song they hear at length: It shall rise nlagaetlapoearlsfhdtastTsNN It ithall rise again as It pealed forth then In the might of lusty strength. etiquette by saying sharply: "Never mind; just tell Mr. Jones some . one wants to apeak to him." In nearly every business establishment, telephone operators are Instructed to se cure the name of the party on the wire, before making connection with ejrt-n-sions or summoning the party named. This Is particularly true in the case of busy men and women who cannot be interrupted by unimportant telephone calls. It Is also true in stores where employes are not permitted to answer a call, save when it comes from an Im portant customer. And this brings us to the question of telephone consideration. How many girls who "Just love to talk over the 'phone realise how they embarrass young men in stores and offices? More than one courtship has faded through the ov enseal ous use of the telephone by a thoughtless girl. Employers do not v ant their young men clerks to waste time talking social matters over the 'phone, and the right sort of young man wants to attend to his employer's affairs dur ing business hours and use the telephone later on. Another type of woman who makes telephone trouble in office or store ' is the fussy wife who Is forever calling her husband and telling 4ilm the most trivial domestic matters, or worse still, convincing herself that he is really at the office and not "tearing around with some horrid man." Respect your husband's or sweet heart's business hours. If something really important arises, some question which must be settled, like a sudden summons from town or a request to make up a dinner party that night, con clude your conversation as quickly as possible and do not add to the neces sary remarks a long, lingering tale of gossip you have heard during the morn ing. In many households where servants at tend the telephone, they are also In structed to Inquire the name of the per son who makes the call, and to take messages In case the mistress is out or so engaged at home that she cannot come to the telephone. In this case you either leave your number or word that you will call later. Never argue with a servant as to why her mistress can not respond to the call. It is as under bred as to question the maid's state ment that her mistress Is out when you are so Informed at the door. When you are connected with the wrong number, do not assume a bored or angry tone. , Bear In mind that you have annoyed the party called by mis take, and say "Bog pardon" as if you meant it. not as If you had a grievance against the party who dared to answer through the mistake of another. Do not deliberately wait until your friend Is at dinner and then preface your long-winded chat with the remark: "You'll forgive me for callng you just at dinner time, but I knew you'd be at home then, and I didn't want to waste my call." This hardly consoles her for chilled soup and lukewarm fish and the reproaches of her family when you final ly release her and she returns to the table. "When men call women, even from their offices, they should remain at their end of the wire until the woman re sponds. Many men tell the operator to let them know when the lady responds, and the latter is kept waiting while the busy man concludes a letter, or runs Into the next office for something. If a man takes time to call a woman dur ing business hours, he should at least show her the .courtesy of calling her properly and being at the phone when she answers. Never talk private affairs over a pub lic telephone, unless you are sure that the booth Is sound proof. The girl win quarrels with her sweetheart in the corner drug store and the wife who berates her husband for not coming home on time to dinner, at th grocery where she trades, belong in the same ill-brpd class. And lastly, do not impose upon your host or hostess, either In private home or office. Remember that in most cities each call Is charged up to the lessee of the telephone. As a guest In the sub urbs, do not use calls to town unless you Intend to compensate your hostess or offer to do so as if you meant it. T)o not use the telephone In a man friend's office because you happen to b In the neighborhood. Far better to pay 5 cents at the public telephone in the. the nearest drug store. The man may not resent the 5-cent call, but he will re sent the fact that you make a conveni ence of his office and force him to wait politely while you chatter to some friend, when he needs the telephone for his own business affairs. PRUDENCK STANOISH. CUSTARDS FOR SPRING WITH the approach of warm weath er, heavy desserts should b avoided, and unless fresh fruits are served for the final dinner course, something extremely light should be substituted. Here are some excellent custard preparations: CHOCOLATE CUSTARDS. Melt a square of Baker's chocolate in three tablespoons of sugar in a double boil er; add a quart of jniltt. When warm, pour over five eggs, white and yolks beaten together. Pour this into small earthen pups or a pudding dish. Which ever is used, set the receptacle into a pan of boiling water and bake In a moderate oven until firm. A pinch of salt and half a teaspoonful of vanilla will improve the flavor of this dish. TAPIOCA CUSTARU. Put a pint of rich milk and two tablespoons of fine tapioca into a double boiler and cook slowly until the tapioca ts quite trans parent. To this add the yolks of two eggs well beaten, mixed wttn a pinch of salt and three tablespoons of Fugar. Stir this and let it cook slowly until thickened. When the custard is quite done, add the whites of the eggs which have been beaten to a stiff froth, ta.ke from the fire and beat until quite cool, and add half a teaspoon of vanilla ex tract. If lump or pearl tapioca is used it should be soaked for several hours before using. If the top of this pud ding Is dotted with eranapple Jelly it odds much to the appearance and the flavor. SPANISH CREAM. Beat the yolks of four eggs and four tablespoons of sugar together until- very creamy. Cover half a box of gelatine with a little milk to dissolve It. Heat one quart of milk to the boiling point, and add the dissolved gelatine, the eggs and sugar, and let it thicken, butdo not let it boll. Remove rrom the fire, beat occasionally until perfectly cold. Then stir In lightly the whites of the four eggs, which have been beaten to a stiff froth, flavor with vanilla and Eet on the ice to cool.