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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View This Issue
TIIE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, MAY 17, 1908.
!!! KK'5FQnFnCE,Cfc; ?ASni0H5 & PEA.OTT jOlll
Braid Queen of Summer Trimmings
FASHION'S and fads move in circles,
but not in nearly half a century has
braid enjoyed the vogue of the pres
ent season. It appeared in small quan
tities on Winter frocks of 1907-8 and by
Spring It was generally shown in all the
shops. Just now, with Summer j?owns on
the work tables and overflowing the
wardrobes, it is everywhere the most
striking feature of midsummer modes.
Cloth and silk dresses are encrusted
with It, vests and vestees are almost
solidly braided, and thinnest of fabrics.,
like habutai silks, mulls, all-over laces,
batistes and nets are fairly weighed down
In a way, this is rather a fortunate
form of trimming for the home dress
maker, for if she masters the some
what simple art of braiding flatly and
without puckering the fabric beneath,
she can secure very elaborate effects at
little cost. On the other hand, braid illy
applied or carelessly combined with other
trimmings will ruin an otherwise effective
The new braids come in all widths and
weights and weaves, from the finest of
wash soutache, to the most marvelous of
silk braids interwoven with lace or hand
embroidered motifs on silk. The novelty
braids show most elaborate patterns, and
often three or even four colors in com
bination. Much tinsel thread is also
shown in the newer braids Intended for
trimming silk or net frocks, while the
wash braids are combined with heavy,
washable laces. Incidentally, all wash
braid should be shrunk before it is ap
plied to tub frocks. Otherwise the trim
ming will probably shrink and the fabric
will not, thus giving the entire gown the
appearance of having been drawn out" of
shape by the application of the braid.
Soutache braid either matching or har
monizing with the fabric is first aid to the
home dressmaker, and if tt is to give best
results a simple pattern .must be chosen
and carefully outlined by the use of per
forated paper or accurate measurements
wjth a basting thread. For Instance, per
haps you are making a circular skirt with
a shaped flounce above which you want a
braided pattern. , If the material is silk
or linen, shape your flounce, baste it un
der the upper section of the skirt which
is to be braided on the edge, and hang
the skirt perfectly. Then rip off the
flounce section, marking clearly where it
is to le attached and proceed with your
braiding. If you want a square scal
loped effect on the upper section, cut it in
square openings, absolutely even in shape
and size, face on the under side, outline
with braid, and then inside of each square
or scallop braid an accurate geometrical
pattern. Th's may be a diamond, each
successive line of braiding making a
smaller diamond until in the center you
have just a knot of braid. Or you can
interlace or cross your braid. Or you can
trace a small Greek key or Wall of
Troy pattern inside each of the squares.
Tho bodice must be similarly braied.
1 f you have diamonds of braid on the
skirt, outline your chemisette or yoke
with 'smaller braid diamonds with two
or three fine lines of braid runing on
cither side. If you use an interlacing or
crossing pattern, then trim the bodice
with buttons made of the cloth and criss
crossed with the braid.
Several designs are shown today that
admirably Introdxice the use of braiding.
Figure A is a nine-gore circular skirt
and a loose-fit tng jacket which develops
splendidly in the new rough silks. As
hero, shown it was in Copenhagen blue
silk, finished with stitched bias bands at
the foot of the skirt and around the en
tire jacket.. Inside these bunds ran the
home-made, trimming, a lovely combina
tion of amber-colored silk and Copen
hagen blue soutache braid, with French
knots. The simplest geometrical design
was cut from the amber silk and applied
to the frock, then outlined with the fine
silk braid against which, on the outer
edge, French knots of Copenhagen blue
ami amber silk floss were embroidered.
In a natural colored pongee silk, the
motifs outside the stitched 'bands could
lie of heavy lace, like guipure, flirt or
point de Venise, and a novelty braid,
showing natural color, pale blue and pink,
or green and lavender could be used.
The tailored costume of (finely striped
French cloth. Fig. B. has a nine-gored
Good Treatment for Freckles
BETWKKX her love of outdoor life
and sports, and her fear of freckles,
the thin-skinned girl certainly has
her troubles- at this season of the year.
She thinks that now she must choose
between a golf or tennis record and her
fair complexion. In a way her fears are
groundless, especially if she has what
might be called Summer-sunshine freckles
There are two sorts of freckles, those
which come from the direct rays of the
sun in hot weather, and those which re
main the year round, stubbornly refusing
to yield to any sort of treatment, and
whleh are known as "cold" freckles.
fold freckles are practlcaly incurable.
The only thing a girl can do is to pre
vent their increase in number and dark
ening In color by the most painstaking
protective measures. .Many women write
to me asking about various "skinning"
processes. This means the complete
skinning of the face, or removal of the
scarf skin by a most painful process.
And sad to- relate, as soon as the scarf
skin grows again the freckles will come
So 1 say to the girl who has all-round
the-year freckles, accept what you have
philosophically and try to prevent more
from appearing on your face.
The simplest and safest lotion for re
ducing the coloring of "cold" freckles is
lemon Jul-e. If your skin is not too ten
der, apply the lemon juice plain; if the
skin is very tender and reddens under the
touch of lemon add. mix glycerine and
re water in equal proportions and add
lemon juice as strong as your skin will
endure it. This amount can be ascer
tained only by actual test.
If you have only a few freckles and
these far apart, touch each freckle with
a fine camel's hair brush, dipped in the
lemon lotion, say night and morning. If
the freckles are peppered thickly all over
your face or in certain parts of the face,
dfp a clean bit of old linen in the lotion
and mop the affected parts with it.
This same treatment may be used by
the girl who is bothered by Summer
freckles only. In her case, the lemon
juice will cause the annoying blotches
to disappear entirely, while it will only
fade "cold freckles.
Hut even more important than the use
of this lotion is your care of the skin
whenever you go out. either for Summer
snorts or mere walking or driving. Fre-
circular skirt, and natty jacket with cut
away effect in the front and a Louis line
In the back. Each gore is outlined almost
to the knees with a combination braid
pattern, which appears also on the jacket.
In this case tan and golden brown ap
peared in the cloth and golden brown in
the braid. A half-Inch braid, showing
NARROW AND WIDE BRAID FOR OUTLINING JACKET AND SKIRT
OF FRENCH NOVELTY CLOTH SUIT.
brown, tan and white, outlned the design,
and inside this the finest of silk soutache
in golden brown was criss-crossed like a
The skirt in Fig. C gives one of ths
very best effects obtainable by the use
prtre the face very carefully. First rub
a good cold cream thickly into the pores
of the skin. Massage this in as thor
oughly 83 if you were taking your daily
beauty treatment and wipe off any excess
of cream with a clean piece of oid linen.
Then apply very carefully a pure face
powder. 1 can recommend for this pur
pose no better cold cream than the one
whose formula was given In these col
umns last week. -
As to powder, if you are not sure as
to the ingredients in the one you ordi
narily use, make your own powder. It
will cost you just as much as the pro
prietary article, but you will have the
satisfaction of knowing that it will not
Injure your skin.
Here is a simple formula for a harm
less face powder:
In a glass jar mix four ounces of pure
talcum powder and eight ounces of pure
distilled vinegar. Let this stand corked
in a dark place for two weeks, shaking
it once a day. Filter the mixture
through v coarse brown paper to get rid
of all the vinegar, then turn the moist
powder into a jar filled with distilled
water. rinse and shake thoroughly.
Finally, filter again, and mix the powder
with 15 grammes of spermaceti ground
very fine, three grains of carmine and
just enough violet toilet water to form
a smooth paste. Put this mixture in a
porcelain bowl or jar and cover with a
piece of linen while it dries out. When
dry and finely powdered, pack away in
jars or boxes, and keep free from dust.
The girl who "freckles" must not go
bare-headed even at tennis or golf. She
must train herself to wear a shade hat
of some sort, best of all. one of the
mf fly-fluffy sunbonnets which will not in
the least detract from her appearance.
When driving, motoring or going for
long walks, she must don a veil, onefn
either brown or red being best, as these
two 'colors break or reject the blue and
violet rays of the sun so conducive to
freckles. The veil should be of chiffon,
or silk, never an open-mesh veil with
Two simple remedies within the reach
of every girl in the country are ripe to
matoes, which may be split and used to
rub the face, and horse radish mixed
with sour milk. Th e la tt er Is sa id to
be the very best preventive and cure for
Summer freckles. Scrape horse radish
very fine until you get a teaspoonful.
Mix this with a cup of sour milk. Allow
of braid, and the design can be applied
to silk, cloth or tub fabrics. The skirt
consists of alternate plain and pleated
gores, nine in all. The plain gores or
panel effects have a design In braiding
near the foot, while the pleated gores
are set into braied yoke1 pieces that come
down well below the hip. For such a
design the braiding .pattern known as the
arabesque is most suitable.
Fig. D shows a most effective linen
blouse over a guimpe of embroidered
batiste. The sleeve caps and upper part
of the linen overblouse are cut in deep
It to stand six hours, and apply two or
three times a day with a soft linen cloth.
Many Wolves in Upper Michigan.
Detroit Free Press.
Estimates by the Federal Biological
Survey to the effect that there are per
haps 200 timber wolves in Upper Michigan
are declared by woodsmen to be far under
There are 15 counties In the peninsula
and there are wolves In every one of
them, particularly in the great stretches
of wilderness with which the region
abounds. Probably as many as 500 wolves
have been killed the last year it is
figured; still there appears to be as many
of the animals in the woods now as 12
The Luce County Board recently ap
proved the payment of bounties on 30
wolves, amounting at $30 a head to $900.
and in Dickinson County bounties were
paid on 17 wolves and 19 wild cats.
Genius and Obesity.
The annals of genius are filled to over
flowing with the names of men who toiled
and achieved fame under a full habit.
Nothing can be more unjust than the gibe
about "fat and folly" and fatness and in
dolence. Martin Luther was as fat as
Calvin was thin; Ernest Kenan's obesity
did not obscure his insight and brilliancy.
Many writers and speakers have too
long spoken invidiously of fatness, but
the best retort we have been able to glean
in our researches into this weighty sub
ject is that of C. H. Spurgeon, the famous
preacher. 'People, said Spurgeon. "say
I am fat. I am not fat. I am bone and
flesh. My limbs, thank God. are amply
clothed, and- 1 am in my right mind."
Moose Drink at a Pump.
James Tibbetts. of the Neck road. Ben
ton, has been entertaining strange com
pany for several days. Early last week
Mr. Tibbetts went to the barn and turned
out his stock. When he stepped into the
barnyard a few minutes lafW to start the
water at the pump he was surprised to
find a bull and a cow moose apparently
waiting for the water.
Mr. Tibbetts went directly to the pump
and began raising water for the stock. As
the water poured from the spout into the
big trough among the first of the animals
to reach it were the strangers. Each
moose drank its quantity and then slowly
walked past the farmer to a low plae
in the fence where each vaulted over and
scallops, each faced, outlined with braid
and finished with a braided trefoil pat
tern. It will be noticed that the trefoils
are larger at the lower points of the
opening,- back and front, than on the
shoulders. Great care must be taken to
apply the braid thus, for heavy orna
mentations on the shoulder detract from
the good lines of the entire figure.
In Fig."1 E is shown the simplest trim
ming for linen suits. Here you find the
overblouse and sleeves laid in broad
tucks, a deep chemisette of finely tucked
lawn, outlined by wash braid and fine
On the delicately tinted linens and lawn,
such as pink, blue lavender and yellow.
white -braid is much used, but on white
frocks the best effects are secured by the
use of white braiding only. The colored
braids are very apt to "run, even in the
hands of the most conscientious laund
ress. MARY DEAN.
struck off across the field in the direc
tion of the woods.
TrSvery morning since the creatures have
appeared in the barnyard when Mr. Tib
betts has turned on the water. The
strange part of the affair lies in the
fact that, the farm is well watered by
three small brooks which keep running
all Winter and the Sebasticook River is
but a few hundred yards away. It i
possible the creatures have discovered
something in the brooks and in the river
which sets their taste going in another
direction, for they are watering regularly
at the Tibbett's pump.
The moose have never bothered the
cows or the oxen, of the Tibetts herd,
and the latter have never apparently paid
any attention, to the presence of the
Spring In England.
Arthur Stringer in Everybody's Magazine.
The flowering- quince flames up the cottage
Remote and soft the first low cuckoo calls:
The skylark weaves its airy toweryof song;
The telltale swallow-wort l thick along
The grassy lanes, and o'er the softening
Of hedge and muffled -wall the peachboughs
The drowsy mash of lowland air with Spring
Seems drowsier, the bees are on the wing.
And throstle from the quiet churchyard
Where wallflowers from the crannied tombs
The winding lane, the narrow village street.
The young girls In the quiet doorways'
The upland plowman whistles to his team.
Where merrily blow the grasses - in the
All starred with cowslips and anemones.
And old men sit a-doslng in the sun..'.
And count their wall-tree blossoms one by
And hear the low-toned bell call down the
With drowsy tongue from out the. old gray
That seems to call Its children back again
To sleep beneath the sunlight and the rain.
And down the soft and dreamy afternoon
The old bells tinkle out some old strange
And all the world seems old. and mid the
Lle ruins dark, deep glories that have been.
Oh. this is not the careless joy and song
Of Youth! These are the beauties that be
To twilight countries old and wise in tears.
To hills and homelands heavy- with their
Too overscored by Time and Tragedy
Kach soft green valley seems, too dak
The child of casual years and younger land.
To know, as England knows, and understand!
Good Form When Telephoning
THE - telephone habit has assumed
such large proportions that some
space should be devoted to the subejet
of telephone etiquette. There are' so
many things that should be done at the
telephone and so many more that might
be left undone.
For instance, what is the really cor-
SILK AND BRAID MOTIF FOR
rect way to call or answer a call ?
Central opens the conversation with
'Hello." and your answer should come
quickly, "377 Main, please."
The "ploase" takes less than a sec
ond and "Central" does hear It.
According to business rules in a large
city (and they are very good for social
usage, too), the person who gets your
EVERT season brings some fresh
freak or fad for the Summer girl,
and this year it is footwear. Never
In the history of fashion have we had
such frivolities in shoes and slippers,
such variety In shapes, such vividness
And in this respect, footwear is a
matter of evolution. We started with
white canvas footwear for the Sum
mer girl, got around to fancy spats or
gaiters for the Fail girl, cloth tops to
match 'frocks for the Winter girl, and
here we are, plunged in real footwear
frivolities for Summer, 1908.
First in the list of frivolous things
come the patent leather vamps with
uppers to match the gown exactly. Tou
can have this In cloth or leather. That
is, if your frock is of lavender silk
incrusted with lace, your shoes will "be
high, with patent leather vamps and
uppers of lavender cloth or leather,
the patent in either the kid glove or
Next to the highly tinted uppers
come pumps of black patent leather
with a band of cloth or vividly tinted
leather around the instep. This may
match the frock, or, for general wear.
It may be of vivid yellow chamois.
For house wear, you will see patent
leather pumps finished with bands of
tinel ribbon, silver, gold or copper.
White canvas shoes have given way
at really smart Summer resorts to
pumps and ties in natural colored
chamois skin or patent leather with
chamois skin in combination.
Among the novelties noted for house
wear are si ippers of brocade, with a
rose or other flower at the point of
the shoe, outlined with iridescent
beads, gold, silver or pearl or rhlne
stone. Three straps appear on these
slippers with buckles to match the
beading or Jeweling on the toe. An
other conceit showed a slipper of soft
est brown suede picked out with a
pattern in topaz, while an exquisite
gray suede slipper was siudded with
opals and had opals in the buckles.
A great deal of white beading Is
used to trim both black and brown
shoes, and brown suede ties with buck
call does not say "Hello," but repeats
his or her own number, "277 Main,' sim
ply to show you that you have your
number. For Instance, in the Western
Union offices employes at the telephone
do not say 'Hello." but respond to a
call with - "Western Union," and you
start directly with your message or con-
TRIMMING COSTUME OF ROUGH
versatlon. Big department stores use
the same system.
If you have called up a store or of
fice, you then say: "I wish to speak with
Mr. Jones." and nine cases out of ten
the telephone operator will reply: "Who
wishes to speak with him?"
Right there the average woman com
mits her first offense against telephone
les of copper were worn by a smartly
f rocked girl at a recent studio tea.
By contrast, 'hosiery worn with these
fancy shoes and pumps Is extremely
plain. Solid coiors in fine lisle and
silk come to match all the new shades
in costume fabrics, put tne openwork
stocking and its gaily embroidered
cousin have retired In the face of the
very frivolous shoes.
Kngland's Largest Landowners.
The Marquis of Stafford, who is in his
20th year, is heir to the most extensive
domain, if not the largest rent roll, en
joyed by any subject of Kind Edward.
More than 1,000.000 acres in England and
Scotland are under the lordship of his
father, the Duke of Southerland. while
the Marquis of Breadalbane. who is prob
ably the next largest proprietor in the
kingdom, does not own half that amount
The Song of Toll.
Sinjr me the son of the hammer blow
As it clangs on the Iron beam;
Sinn- me the Bong of. the forges' glow '
And the white-hot rivet's gleam;
Chant me the strain of the trudging feet
In the deep drumbeat of toll.
For the song is sweet in the. buBy street
And across the upturned soil.
Sing me the song of the brawny hands
And the shoulders ridged and wide.
Where the muscles rise like to cable strands
With the might of a strong man's pride;
Voice me the chant of the fingers skilled
And the rising dome and wall.
For the Iord hath willed that the men
Shall be honored over all.
Ye that have sung us the songs of war
And coving songs of love.
Know ye what labor was given for
And the -grace 'tis fashioned of?
Know ye the sons; of the ancient years.
Of the rule and plane and plow
The chant that cheers every one that hears
As It echoes to us now?
It echoes on through the centuries
In th rlo of the swinging- saws.
And it shakes the souls of the men of ease
Till It icives their dreamlngs pause.
It has surged Its way or the desert sands
And through cities long forgot
For the strength that stands In a strong
Is a strength that falters not.
Sing me the song; of the clanging sledge
And the wrinkled, sweating brow.
Of the foot that steps on the sky's thin
And the form that does not bow.
For I know that deep In the hearts of men
Is the song they hear at length:
It shall rise nlagaetlapoearlsfhdtastTsNN
It ithall rise again as It pealed forth then
In the might of lusty strength.
etiquette by saying sharply: "Never
mind; just tell Mr. Jones some . one
wants to apeak to him."
In nearly every business establishment,
telephone operators are Instructed to se
cure the name of the party on the wire,
before making connection with ejrt-n-sions
or summoning the party named.
This Is particularly true in the case of
busy men and women who cannot be
interrupted by unimportant telephone
calls. It Is also true in stores where
employes are not permitted to answer a
call, save when it comes from an Im
And this brings us to the question of
telephone consideration. How many
girls who "Just love to talk over the
'phone realise how they embarrass young
men in stores and offices? More than
one courtship has faded through the
ov enseal ous use of the telephone by a
thoughtless girl. Employers do not v ant
their young men clerks to waste time
talking social matters over the 'phone,
and the right sort of young man wants
to attend to his employer's affairs dur
ing business hours and use the telephone
Another type of woman who makes
telephone trouble in office or store ' is
the fussy wife who Is forever calling
her husband and telling 4ilm the most
trivial domestic matters, or worse still,
convincing herself that he is really at
the office and not "tearing around with
some horrid man."
Respect your husband's or sweet
heart's business hours. If something
really important arises, some question
which must be settled, like a sudden
summons from town or a request to
make up a dinner party that night, con
clude your conversation as quickly as
possible and do not add to the neces
sary remarks a long, lingering tale of
gossip you have heard during the morn
ing. In many households where servants at
tend the telephone, they are also In
structed to Inquire the name of the per
son who makes the call, and to take
messages In case the mistress is out or
so engaged at home that she cannot
come to the telephone. In this case you
either leave your number or word that
you will call later. Never argue with
a servant as to why her mistress can
not respond to the call. It is as under
bred as to question the maid's state
ment that her mistress Is out when you
are so Informed at the door.
When you are connected with the
wrong number, do not assume a bored
or angry tone. , Bear In mind that you
have annoyed the party called by mis
take, and say "Bog pardon" as if you
meant it. not as If you had a grievance
against the party who dared to answer
through the mistake of another.
Do not deliberately wait until your
friend Is at dinner and then preface
your long-winded chat with the remark:
"You'll forgive me for callng you just
at dinner time, but I knew you'd be at
home then, and I didn't want to waste
my call." This hardly consoles her for
chilled soup and lukewarm fish and the
reproaches of her family when you final
ly release her and she returns to the
"When men call women, even from
their offices, they should remain at their
end of the wire until the woman re
sponds. Many men tell the operator to
let them know when the lady responds,
and the latter is kept waiting while the
busy man concludes a letter, or runs
Into the next office for something. If a
man takes time to call a woman dur
ing business hours, he should at least
show her the .courtesy of calling her
properly and being at the phone when
Never talk private affairs over a pub
lic telephone, unless you are sure that
the booth Is sound proof. The girl win
quarrels with her sweetheart in the
corner drug store and the wife who
berates her husband for not coming
home on time to dinner, at th grocery
where she trades, belong in the same
And lastly, do not impose upon your
host or hostess, either In private home
or office. Remember that in most cities
each call Is charged up to the lessee of
the telephone. As a guest In the sub
urbs, do not use calls to town unless
you Intend to compensate your hostess
or offer to do so as if you meant it.
T)o not use the telephone In a man
friend's office because you happen to b
In the neighborhood. Far better to pay
5 cents at the public telephone in the.
the nearest drug store. The man may
not resent the 5-cent call, but he will re
sent the fact that you make a conveni
ence of his office and force him to wait
politely while you chatter to some
friend, when he needs the telephone for
his own business affairs.
WITH the approach of warm weath
er, heavy desserts should b
avoided, and unless fresh fruits are
served for the final dinner course,
something extremely light should be
substituted. Here are some excellent
CHOCOLATE CUSTARDS. Melt a
square of Baker's chocolate in three
tablespoons of sugar in a double boil
er; add a quart of jniltt. When warm,
pour over five eggs, white and yolks
beaten together. Pour this into small
earthen pups or a pudding dish. Which
ever is used, set the receptacle into a
pan of boiling water and bake In a
moderate oven until firm. A pinch of
salt and half a teaspoonful of vanilla
will improve the flavor of this dish.
TAPIOCA CUSTARU. Put a pint of
rich milk and two tablespoons of fine
tapioca into a double boiler and cook
slowly until the tapioca ts quite trans
parent. To this add the yolks of two
eggs well beaten, mixed wttn a pinch
of salt and three tablespoons of Fugar.
Stir this and let it cook slowly until
thickened. When the custard is quite
done, add the whites of the eggs which
have been beaten to a stiff froth, ta.ke
from the fire and beat until quite cool,
and add half a teaspoon of vanilla ex
tract. If lump or pearl tapioca is used
it should be soaked for several hours
before using. If the top of this pud
ding Is dotted with eranapple Jelly it
odds much to the appearance and the
SPANISH CREAM. Beat the yolks
of four eggs and four tablespoons of
sugar together until- very creamy.
Cover half a box of gelatine with a
little milk to dissolve It. Heat one
quart of milk to the boiling point, and
add the dissolved gelatine, the eggs
and sugar, and let it thicken, butdo
not let it boll. Remove rrom the fire,
beat occasionally until perfectly cold.
Then stir In lightly the whites of the
four eggs, which have been beaten to
a stiff froth, flavor with vanilla and
Eet on the ice to cool.